#wcknives #williamcollinsknives #knivesmadetowork #bladesharpening I discuss and demonstrate how I sharpen my knives and give my opinion on sharpening tools and techniques.
A hand held ceramic rod does 95% of all my honing. As long as I am disciplined about regularly touching up my blades as I use them, I seldom need anything more than a few strokes on each side. I have definitely experienced what you mean as far as over stropping. Those fine teeth make a big difference in the way the knife "grabs" material. I definitely enjoy using a knife better when it is in that condition.
I use that little victorinox steel & a ceramic rod for honest to goodness about 95% of all my sharpening. That little rod is a great tool and I also carry one daily. Great video
Watching and hearing you teach us about your blades and bevels has opened my eyes and mind to sharpening them. Iam Glad i found you and your channel. Your the first custom maker that has ever gotten to the real meat and potatoes about sharpening and knife design and usage with no BS!!! Iam sold and as soon as i can get enough saved Iam going to place an order for a WCSK survival knife from you. I watched a couple videos on it already and am blown away. THAT design especially is such an awesome work of functional art... I cant wait to be able to own one soon and again I thank you for all do and share with us.
Thanks! I appreciate your practical approach. I learned about the mini steel from one of your earlier videos and I regularly use either an Opinel or Victorinox mini steel as the final step in sharpening to clear off any remaining burr, as well as to do a quick touch up to an edge. I've been spending too much time with the finer grits, though. After watching this I've been using my just black, blue, and red four inch DMTs and getting a much better edge.
Just been running around like a mad man doing what you just taught,, amazing , thanks. I have used a Smith diamond sharpener.2 sided , coarse and fine, sharpener..
Hello sir, enjoying your channel and subscribed. Landed here after I acquired a Pheer from a buddy and searched some videos on it. So far I’ve watched your 2nd day of Pheer ownership video, your recent FAQs and this one. I like your style and your knowledge. Thank you for taking the time to share it with us. I’ll be going through several more in my free time to learn what I can absorb. Take care and keep up the great work 👍🏼
I like your thoughts on knife steels and sharpening, I am 80 years old and I still use a dual india stone and carbon steel blades, Lov a small shop and hands on mentality. Good luck God bless.
Recently I have got this little‘Worksharp Guided Field Sharpener” and I think removing compound from its narrow strop makes it perfect device for sharpening your blades using your sharpening method. I never use its angle guides. I took its diamond plates and hold them between my thumb and middle fingers just like you do.
Hello William, I do exactly what you do but I do have a different tool to sharpen with when I get out of work I will send you a picture and details of this tool it works very well and I don’t think it would ever wear out, it does work well with your style knives
Awesome William awesome... I have two DMT diamond stones.. well one is a Smith version.. also have the same ceramic rod you have.. same chip same size that is a great rod.. also have a lansky bone a that is old enough that the rubber ends have split and gone but the small rod is intact and works great... I have followed you lead on the Victorinox rod .. keep on in my wallet it touched up an edge very well... I am of course looking for the holy grail of stones (yea i know good luck) and have my eye on a few modern/traditional stones..i will shoot the lock off my wallet eventually buy. My favorite is the Washita stone (i have two) that were my Dear Old Dad's. My Dad taught me how to sharpen on those stones and i am proud to have them and still use them.. Thank fully I have learned to care for the stones keeping them effective. WOW your knives are really hard.. that is amazing that they will eat up a natural stone.. I think people get a little too hung up on Grid.. if you want to polish the blade to a shine grid counts.. I am with you on the cutting edge thing. For example i was dissapointed in the edge on my MK3 so i sat down with my stone and just kept at the angle until the scandi was even.. and MAN that sharpened that blade.. there are some blemishes where the original grind pattern was irregular but the stone cleaned the edge great and now the knife will cut.. I can see once you own that AEBL you really need to adjust your thinking a little to keep the edge the way you shipped it. i have learned a lot from watching how you do things with an edge and a blade and the geometry.. i cant tell you how much the geometry has helped me with my knife edges.. Thanks man ... J
Howdy, William. Just picked up a blue 4” DMT Stone & a ceramic rod. I know this video is a couple of years old but it might be worth noting that those Victorinox minis are no longer available. They make another one that you can buy on AMZ that’s 7” w/ a little lanyard hole at the end. It’s around $25. Maybe it’s the same one that you’re using but yours looks shorter. Dunno. I have a pile of old knives here to work on so that when my Fieldlore arrives there won’t be any second guessing in the field. Yer channel is becoming a daily part of my YT diet. Peace!
Appreciate the video support. Yep the mini’s has been hard to get for a couple years now. Sheffield in the UK does have a small 5” steel that is awesome. I have several of them. That may be the one you are referring to. I get mine from Amazon. Whitby Sheffield 5.25" Sharpening Steel a.co/d/44Omljm they do have shorter one but haven’t tried it.
I'm going to be switching to diamond stones soon because it seems that when I use a stone it gets a bow in it especially since I'm constantly working on my knives or knives for other people. Most of the time to just touch up a blade I will use a few strokes on a ceramic rod and the a few strokes on the rough side of my leather belt and a few on the smooth and I have a shaving sharp edge.
I get best results from small Arkansas stones. I haven't much liked the ceramic rods I have tried. I just use water, pocket stones. For coarse work i got a Baryonix sythe stone which works great (in fact the finer grit grey ones will put an acceptable knife edge on by themselves, and they cut metal fast). i do need to find something different for my recurved knives. I get passable results with flat stones, but just not as good as I like.
Thanks for the explanation 🙂 I have a trend plate and the Nessy has no hook so I should be good🕺🏻 I’m definitely going to look into that mini victorinox. How do we get a WC hat?
Everything you said is Spot on..... Follow the bevel and be consistent, Same words my dad used and today people have told me, my knife is scary sharp...No grinders, No edge guides... and No stropping compounds... I think Factory produced knives, throw people off of hand sharpening..alot of factory blades are stamped out and that causes two different bevels. Just my opinion..
Not sure what stamped blades has to do with bevels. They stamp the blade outline out of sheets of metal, usually the profile. but the bevel is ground on like any knife. you can't stamp a sharp edge into a metal blank. The edges are inconsistent because they are sharpened by assembly line workers tossing the blanks into jigs and buzzing each side along a grinding wheel to create a bevel. If the jigs are not exactly lined up or the piece is not put in correctly (and they are expected to pump these things out at a certain minimum rate), the edges don't quite match.
I totally agree. Everyone seems to think that "sharper is always better" and want all their knives honed down to a ultra-fine mirror polish, literal razor edge, but that is actually worse than useless in an EDC knife. Unless you have a special application (sugical tools, woodworking, razors, maybe cooking knives?) that needs such a sharp edge, you only need a medium-fine edge at best. More is a waste of effort, and makes the knife perform worse.
I learned as a teenager a course edge stays sharp longer and a better edge for my cutting task. Polished edges are good for shaving that's about it in my book
If you don't want a polished edge on a knife, but still want wicked sharpness, use a leather strop loaded with Bark River's Black Compound and stop after that. It's great for edge maintenance. Works like a fine stone, and you can hear it cutting steel. P.S., a sharp edge should push-cut through an entire sheet of paper without using a slicing motion.
@@wcknives the black compound will still leave some tooth, and still push-cut through paper. If your edge is getting convexed, you're using too much downward pressure on the strop. Trust me 😊
As the saying goes, theres no right way to do it, only the wrong way!! Nice insight into your technique william. I agree with you 99.9%. Especialy on the way the knife edge has to have bite etc... But for me stropping is essential. The problem around sharpening is that people have this idea that their knives have to be razor sharp, so they tend to oversharpen and overstrop that will lead to convexing your edge and shortening the lifespan of your knife. Dont forget everytime you sharpen your knife it shrinks a little. So if its a heavily used knife it will have its lifespan shortend considerably. So when your paying $250 and upwards for a decent k ife you want it to funtion to its maximum potential and last for as long as possible, hopefully an heirloom that can be past down through generations to come. My take on it is to only sharpen when your knife is damaged or the edge is too convex or less grippy. I sharpen uto 400g or 600g no higher or you loose the bite. I then strop my tools little and often using a hard strop, about 3/4 oz leather on a board using the barest amount of compound, but only applying it about every 4th or 5th strop. Sometimes not even that as i use only carbon steel knives. Only need about 3 or 4 pases thats it, your just taking the burr off the edge, not polishing it. I have never realy convexd any of my blades doing this method and it has increased the lifespan of my blades considerably. Its especialy usefull to strop when your skinning out an animal. Thats just my method.
You can get a decent knife for well under $250. that is just to much. although if I spent that much on a knife I would probably be obsessed with keeping it razor sharp as well.
My dad gave me ceramic wire insulators they used to use in old houses when sending the wires through walls in homes years ago. I wish i still had them the rods were like 6inches and some were probably 8 to 10 inches. I used to sharpen my knives on them as a kid but i didn't get great results because i didn't know then they were too fine to start with and the knives were probably low quality
I make knives as a hobby, and have found the strap does not make the sharpest blade. My bevel is about 15 percent or less. The edge is checked on my thumb nail. When checking the edge on paper, I look for a clean crisp cut.
You know 90*. Half of that is 45* and then half again is 22.5* and so forth. I demonstrate this in a bench sharpen video a few years back but again you are getting bogged down in the weeds. Exact angles do not mater so long as you are close to the original angle and stay with the same angle for both sides with the same pressure and same amount of strokes every time you sharpen. The angle will change to what you are using. You could tape a quarter to each side of the knife as a guide or color the edge with a sharpie to check you angle. The shiny part is what you are sharpening the black part you are not.
You can see the bevel, and you can see the edge, whether it is meeting the stone. If you are not sure it is actually removing metal from the edge, color the bevel in with permanent marker. It is an extremely useful trick, because you would be surprised at how often you are actually holding the blade at too shallow an angle in fear of going too far the opposite direction. The marker allows you to see where the metal was removed, to be sure the edge was actually reached. any excess makrer left on the blade will wash off with alcohol, if it doesn't just wear off the first time you do a test cut.
Robin Walker you could use a desk top stone, step on or or use a vise to hold the mini steel. I’m sure with a bit of trial and error there is something that would work.
Amazon doesn't have the Victorinox Mini Steel any more, I had to look elsewhere. But now I have one, I can't get it to work. I have no experience with steels, I always just use stones. So far it seems to just chew the edge up, or push the burr all over the place. I must be doing something wrong.
Sounds like you are using it at to steep of an angle. Everything takes practice. I recommend using a cheap knife till you get the hang of it. Also place or hold the rod the same as if you were using a stone. Your muscle memory should take over.
I assume you are aware that you cannot apply pressure to a diamond stone, or it will wear it out. Just very light pressure, and it will abrade just fine, it is not like a stone where you have to control the pressure to get the correct bite. I only say that because I have heard of people complaining about wearing out the DC4 by using too much pressure, and others claiming they have used theirs for many years just fine. I would assume you knew all this, but one never knows.
I think as long as your knife is sharp that's all that matters. If that style allows you to get a knife sharp its right. Instead of trying something else that someone says is "the right way" but it doesn't work for you. Do some methods give you a better edge? Sure. But if you don't have the equipment or the skills to do it then it doesn't matter. At the end of the day all that matter is that you have a knife that can cut.
great info. it's voodoo to me, i have tried pull throughs, mini synthetic stones, large synthetic stones and strops, i still cant get the edge you achieved in a minute. i guess for some sharpening is not meant to be. keep up the great work.
Brother if you think that was sharp then you should let me sharpen one of your knives for you and then you take it out and use it and see how you like it lol I do get into sharpening and I take it all the way down to diamond sprays on kangaroo leather or on bass wood for stropping... when I am done with my knives you just look at them and damn near cut yourself haha
LOL, as I mention in the video I prefer a tougher edge. I could do high polished and actually did in some test videos comparing a rough edge to a high polished mirror edge and of course the tougher edge out cut and lasted longer than the polished edge. The mirror edge is very sharp and is great for shaving but as I say in my what is sharp video I’m don’t need a razor to shave with I want an edge that will slice for a longer period of time and a mirror edge will not give me that. A rough or toothy edge will. Thanks for watching.
@@wcknives I guess that depends on exactly which mirror polished edge you are talking about, yes I do get a toothy edge with a higher HRC steel you benefit from the tearout and it can maintain a toothy edge for a long time but on steels meant to take a polished edge and polished properly they will out cut and out last a toothy edge... Cruwear comes to mind and M4 even VG10 all take a high polished edge well and keep them equally as well while high carbide steels like s110v benefit from a toothy edge... when you really drive into it deep it can become complicated but to me interesting and I like to know which steel does better with what type of an edge...
I have compared the CPM powder steels, O1 and AEB-L which are the main steels I use and all preform better for me with a tougher edge in side by side comparisons. But as always you should stick with what works best for you. Appreciate thought and view.
A hand held ceramic rod does 95% of all my honing. As long as I am disciplined about regularly touching up my blades as I use them, I seldom need anything more than a few strokes on each side. I have definitely experienced what you mean as far as over stropping. Those fine teeth make a big difference in the way the knife "grabs" material. I definitely enjoy using a knife better when it is in that condition.
Well said Matt
I use that little victorinox steel & a ceramic rod for honest to goodness about 95% of all my sharpening. That little rod is a great tool and I also carry one daily. Great video
I agree.
Much love , brother William thank u 4 all u do 4 the community, one day ima own one of your knives , peace and Godbless
Excellent! Thanks for sharing...
Watching and hearing you teach us about your blades and bevels has opened my eyes and mind to sharpening them.
Iam
Glad i found you and your channel. Your the first custom maker that has ever gotten to the real meat and potatoes about sharpening and knife design and usage with no BS!!!
Iam sold and as soon as i can get enough saved Iam going to place an order for a WCSK survival knife from you. I watched a couple videos on it already and am blown away.
THAT design especially is such an awesome work of functional art... I cant wait to be able to own one soon and again I thank you for all do and share with us.
Thanks! I appreciate your practical approach. I learned about the mini steel from one of your earlier videos and I regularly use either an Opinel or Victorinox mini steel as the final step in sharpening to clear off any remaining burr, as well as to do a quick touch up to an edge. I've been spending too much time with the finer grits, though. After watching this I've been using my just black, blue, and red four inch DMTs and getting a much better edge.
Just been running around like a mad man doing what you just taught,, amazing , thanks. I have used a Smith diamond sharpener.2 sided , coarse and fine, sharpener..
This is the best video on knife sharpening on TH-cam. I thought I was the only one who likes the little Victorinox steel.
Hello sir, enjoying your channel and subscribed. Landed here after I acquired a Pheer from a buddy and searched some videos on it. So far I’ve watched your 2nd day of Pheer ownership video, your recent FAQs and this one. I like your style and your knowledge. Thank you for taking the time to share it with us. I’ll be going through several more in my free time to learn what I can absorb. Take care and keep up the great work 👍🏼
Congratulations on the Pheer. I now have 4 of them. Great machines.
Also welcome to the channel and appreciate the views.
I like your thoughts on knife steels and sharpening, I am 80 years old and I still use a dual india stone and carbon steel blades, Lov a small shop and hands on mentality. Good luck God bless.
Recently I have got this little‘Worksharp Guided Field Sharpener” and I think removing compound from its narrow strop makes it perfect device for sharpening your blades using your sharpening method. I never use its angle guides. I took its diamond plates and hold them between my thumb and middle fingers just like you do.
Thanks for sharing your experience... feliz🎄navidad... blessings
Luv the mini Vic!
Hello William, I do exactly what you do but I do have a different tool to sharpen with when I get out of work I will send you a picture and details of this tool it works very well and I don’t think it would ever wear out, it does work well with your style knives
I 100% agree with ya. I edc a falknivn dc3 . Its pushing 15 years old.
Great advice I have tradional stones and was afraid it would ruin them with the woodsman grind. Gotta do some shopping, lol.
Awesome William awesome... I have two DMT diamond stones.. well one is a Smith version.. also have the same ceramic rod you have.. same chip same size that is a great rod.. also have a lansky bone a that is old enough that the rubber ends have split and gone but the small rod is intact and works great... I have followed you lead on the Victorinox rod .. keep on in my wallet it touched up an edge very well... I am of course looking for the holy grail of stones (yea i know good luck) and have my eye on a few modern/traditional stones..i will shoot the lock off my wallet eventually buy. My favorite is the Washita stone (i have two) that were my Dear Old Dad's. My Dad taught me how to sharpen on those stones and i am proud to have them and still use them.. Thank fully I have learned to care for the stones keeping them effective. WOW your knives are really hard.. that is amazing that they will eat up a natural stone.. I think people get a little too hung up on Grid.. if you want to polish the blade to a shine grid counts.. I am with you on the cutting edge thing. For example i was dissapointed in the edge on my MK3 so i sat down with my stone and just kept at the angle until the scandi was even.. and MAN that sharpened that blade.. there are some blemishes where the original grind pattern was irregular but the stone cleaned the edge great and now the knife will cut.. I can see once you own that AEBL you really need to adjust your thinking a little to keep the edge the way you shipped it. i have learned a lot from watching how you do things with an edge and a blade and the geometry.. i cant tell you how much the geometry has helped me with my knife edges.. Thanks man ... J
Howdy, William. Just picked up a blue 4” DMT Stone & a ceramic rod. I know this video is a couple of years old but it might be worth noting that those Victorinox minis are no longer available. They make another one that you can buy on AMZ that’s 7” w/ a little lanyard hole at the end. It’s around $25. Maybe it’s the same one that you’re using but yours looks shorter. Dunno. I have a pile of old knives here to work on so that when my Fieldlore arrives there won’t be any second guessing in the field. Yer channel is becoming a daily part of my YT diet. Peace!
Appreciate the video support. Yep the mini’s has been hard to get for a couple years now. Sheffield in the UK does have a small 5” steel that is awesome. I have several of them. That may be the one you are referring to. I get mine from Amazon. Whitby Sheffield 5.25" Sharpening Steel a.co/d/44Omljm they do have shorter one but haven’t tried it.
I'm going to be switching to diamond stones soon because it seems that when I use a stone it gets a bow in it especially since I'm constantly working on my knives or knives for other people. Most of the time to just touch up a blade I will use a few strokes on a ceramic rod and the a few strokes on the rough side of my leather belt and a few on the smooth and I have a shaving sharp edge.
Thank God for common sense. Love this video. Motivates me to keep on--keeping on till I become as good as William Collins--heh-heh.
I get best results from small Arkansas stones. I haven't much liked the ceramic rods I have tried. I just use water, pocket stones. For coarse work i got a Baryonix sythe stone which works great (in fact the finer grit grey ones will put an acceptable knife edge on by themselves, and they cut metal fast). i do need to find something different for my recurved knives. I get passable results with flat stones, but just not as good as I like.
Thanks for the explanation 🙂 I have a trend plate and the Nessy has no hook so I should be good🕺🏻 I’m definitely going to look into that mini victorinox. How do we get a WC hat?
spider Outdoors looking into the hat and shirt options.
Great video. I strop with an old belt and NO compound! Sharpening stone,ceramic rod,and belt.
Everything you said is Spot on..... Follow the bevel and be consistent, Same words my dad used and today people have told me, my knife is scary sharp...No grinders, No edge guides... and No stropping compounds... I think Factory produced knives, throw people off of hand sharpening..alot of factory blades are stamped out and that causes two different bevels. Just my opinion..
Not sure what stamped blades has to do with bevels. They stamp the blade outline out of sheets of metal, usually the profile. but the bevel is ground on like any knife. you can't stamp a sharp edge into a metal blank. The edges are inconsistent because they are sharpened by assembly line workers tossing the blanks into jigs and buzzing each side along a grinding wheel to create a bevel. If the jigs are not exactly lined up or the piece is not put in correctly (and they are expected to pump these things out at a certain minimum rate), the edges don't quite match.
I totally agree. Everyone seems to think that "sharper is always better" and want all their knives honed down to a ultra-fine mirror polish, literal razor edge, but that is actually worse than useless in an EDC knife. Unless you have a special application (sugical tools, woodworking, razors, maybe cooking knives?) that needs such a sharp edge, you only need a medium-fine edge at best. More is a waste of effort, and makes the knife perform worse.
I learned as a teenager a course edge stays sharp longer and a better edge for my cutting task.
Polished edges are good for shaving that's about it in my book
If you don't want a polished edge on a knife, but still want wicked sharpness, use a leather strop loaded with Bark River's Black Compound and stop after that. It's great for edge maintenance. Works like a fine stone, and you can hear it cutting steel.
P.S., a sharp edge should push-cut through an entire sheet of paper without using a slicing motion.
Zoltan Von Somogyi appreciate your info but again you will convex the edge and the way you described the paper cut that is to polished for my liking.
@@wcknives the black compound will still leave some tooth, and still push-cut through paper. If your edge is getting convexed, you're using too much downward pressure on the strop. Trust me 😊
Zoltan Von Somogyi thanks again but prefer my way of sharpening.
@@wcknives my suggestion was not for you, but for your veiwers, in case they would be interested. We all have a way of doing things.
like it....!!
As the saying goes, theres no right way to do it, only the wrong way!! Nice insight into your technique william. I agree with you 99.9%. Especialy on the way the knife edge has to have bite etc... But for me stropping is essential. The problem around sharpening is that people have this idea that their knives have to be razor sharp, so they tend to oversharpen and overstrop that will lead to convexing your edge and shortening the lifespan of your knife. Dont forget everytime you sharpen your knife it shrinks a little. So if its a heavily used knife it will have its lifespan shortend considerably. So when your paying $250 and upwards for a decent k ife you want it to funtion to its maximum potential and last for as long as possible, hopefully an heirloom that can be past down through generations to come. My take on it is to only sharpen when your knife is damaged or the edge is too convex or less grippy. I sharpen uto 400g or 600g no higher or you loose the bite. I then strop my tools little and often using a hard strop, about 3/4 oz leather on a board using the barest amount of compound, but only applying it about every 4th or 5th strop. Sometimes not even that as i use only carbon steel knives. Only need about 3 or 4 pases thats it, your just taking the burr off the edge, not polishing it. I have never realy convexd any of my blades doing this method and it has increased the lifespan of my blades considerably. Its especialy usefull to strop when your skinning out an animal. Thats just my method.
You can get a decent knife for well under $250. that is just to much. although if I spent that much on a knife I would probably be obsessed with keeping it razor sharp as well.
@@justforever96 im referring ti a handmade knife not a factory knife. My standard knives begin around €220 euroes , just under $250.
My dad gave me ceramic wire insulators they used to use in old houses when sending the wires through walls in homes years ago. I wish i still had them the rods were like 6inches and some were probably 8 to 10 inches. I used to sharpen my knives on them as a kid but i didn't get great results because i didn't know then they were too fine to start with and the knives were probably low quality
Spyderco makes high quality ceramics in several shapes great honing tools that last decades
I make knives as a hobby, and have found the strap does not make the sharpest blade. My bevel is about 15 percent or less. The edge is checked on my thumb nail. When checking the edge on paper, I look for a clean crisp cut.
Mr. Collins where can I get a victornornoc steel likes yours ? Thanks Jeff Hawkins
Randy at www.stitchedgear.com had some. Or Amazon.
What I don't get is how do you know when you are at 20 degrees (or whatever angle)? It may feel "right" but one could still be off 1-2 degrees +/-.
You know 90*. Half of that is 45* and then half again is 22.5* and so forth. I demonstrate this in a bench sharpen video a few years back but again you are getting bogged down in the weeds. Exact angles do not mater so long as you are close to the original angle and stay with the same angle for both sides with the same pressure and same amount of strokes every time you sharpen. The angle will change to what you are using. You could tape a quarter to each side of the knife as a guide or color the edge with a sharpie to check you angle. The shiny part is what you are sharpening the black part you are not.
You can see the bevel, and you can see the edge, whether it is meeting the stone. If you are not sure it is actually removing metal from the edge, color the bevel in with permanent marker. It is an extremely useful trick, because you would be surprised at how often you are actually holding the blade at too shallow an angle in fear of going too far the opposite direction. The marker allows you to see where the metal was removed, to be sure the edge was actually reached. any excess makrer left on the blade will wash off with alcohol, if it doesn't just wear off the first time you do a test cut.
So what do you do it you can only use right hand?
Robin Walker you could use a desk top stone, step on or or use a vise to hold the mini steel. I’m sure with a bit of trial and error there is something that would work.
Amazon doesn't have the Victorinox Mini Steel any more, I had to look elsewhere. But now I have one, I can't get it to work. I have no experience with steels, I always just use stones. So far it seems to just chew the edge up, or push the burr all over the place. I must be doing something wrong.
Sounds like you are using it at to steep of an angle. Everything takes practice. I recommend using a cheap knife till you get the hang of it. Also place or hold the rod the same as if you were using a stone. Your muscle memory should take over.
I assume you are aware that you cannot apply pressure to a diamond stone, or it will wear it out. Just very light pressure, and it will abrade just fine, it is not like a stone where you have to control the pressure to get the correct bite. I only say that because I have heard of people complaining about wearing out the DC4 by using too much pressure, and others claiming they have used theirs for many years just fine. I would assume you knew all this, but one never knows.
I think as long as your knife is sharp that's all that matters. If that style allows you to get a knife sharp its right. Instead of trying something else that someone says is "the right way" but it doesn't work for you. Do some methods give you a better edge? Sure. But if you don't have the equipment or the skills to do it then it doesn't matter.
At the end of the day all that matter is that you have a knife that can cut.
I agree!
great info. it's voodoo to me, i have tried pull throughs, mini synthetic stones, large synthetic stones and strops, i still cant get the edge you achieved in a minute. i guess for some sharpening is not meant to be. keep up the great work.
kidbach have you tried the methods I show in the video? The items you mentioned is not what I recommend.
no i haven't but, as soon as i find a local proprietor or an online store(that doesn't begin with A and end with N) i will use your methods.
kidbach try www.stitchedgear.com
Great job cutting through the B.S. and telling it like it is.
That's right man! There's no gospel way in sharpening - it what works for the fellow that's using it period....
DMT is good stuff.
2+2=4 🤷🏻♂️👍🏻🇺🇸 Thanks
I didn't know ceramic had different grit either
Approximate grit. For Spyderco Sharpmaker, brown rods are about 600. White is about 800 to 1000. Dun know about the ultra fine or diamonds.
People are in too big of a hurry that’s why they have made sharpening devices
Brother if you think that was sharp then you should let me sharpen one of your knives for you and then you take it out and use it and see how you like it lol I do get into sharpening and I take it all the way down to diamond sprays on kangaroo leather or on bass wood for stropping... when I am done with my knives you just look at them and damn near cut yourself haha
LOL, as I mention in the video I prefer a tougher edge. I could do high polished and actually did in some test videos comparing a rough edge to a high polished mirror edge and of course the tougher edge out cut and lasted longer than the polished edge. The mirror edge is very sharp and is great for shaving but as I say in my what is sharp video I’m don’t need a razor to shave with I want an edge that will slice for a longer period of time and a mirror edge will not give me that. A rough or toothy edge will. Thanks for watching.
@@wcknives I guess that depends on exactly which mirror polished edge you are talking about, yes I do get a toothy edge with a higher HRC steel you benefit from the tearout and it can maintain a toothy edge for a long time but on steels meant to take a polished edge and polished properly they will out cut and out last a toothy edge... Cruwear comes to mind and M4 even VG10 all take a high polished edge well and keep them equally as well while high carbide steels like s110v benefit from a toothy edge... when you really drive into it deep it can become complicated but to me interesting and I like to know which steel does better with what type of an edge...
I have compared the CPM powder steels, O1 and AEB-L which are the main steels I use and all preform better for me with a tougher edge in side by side comparisons. But as always you should stick with what works best for you. Appreciate thought and view.
Many ways to skin a cat.
Shelley Raskin yep, and as I stated many times in the video and even in the title this is how I do it. If your way works for you stick with it.