You have to understand that these younger generations were not taught to fix or clean anything. Just buy a new part or whatever. I am the farthest thing from a car mechanic, but I use COMMON SENSE to run down problems. When noechanic could figure out what was wrong with my Suburban, I finally climbed up on the engine, and using common sense, had it running like a top until I totalled it. Going through the same problems mentioned in your video w my daughter's 2007 H3. Your video showed me what I needed to see to find the problem, and it's much appreciated. We would get along well as after 31 years of tattooing, I have NO tolerance for idiots. Merry Christmas!!!
please don't get mad at people who want a bolt by bolt because i'm a 57 woman who needs help with my H3 my husband is handycapped now I do what I can so I appreciate all your videos THANKS AGAIN.
Matt, I have had a rough idle issue for almost 6 months now on my 2006 H3 with 65k since I bought it. It usually wants to drop to below 500rpm if it is revved in neutral or when I come to a stop and being so low of an idle caused the shift from 2nd to 1st "bang" if you will every time but If I held my foot on the gas while stopping it did not do this. I took your advice here about two months ago and changed out the filter....it wasn't too bad but did it anyhow. Also started running Lucus Fuel cleaner thru on every fill up of 93 octane. Still didn't fix the problem. I flushed the entire vehicle (every fluid from the front diff, transfer case, rear diff, transmission and oil with MOBIL 1 full synthetic. It was obvious nothing, including the oil and filter had NEVER been changed! Still no fix for my original problem but I'm sure help other problems that were just around the corner! So recently I decided this week to tear out the MAF sensor and Throttle Body for a cleaning......man did the TB need it! It was almost black in color! Then I thought well while I'm here I may as well look into these spark plugs......Yikes! None of this had ever been cleaned or changed as well. So once I put everything back together I fired her up and FINALLY it was fixed!!! I couldn't believe that it actually went up to like 1500rpm initially and then calmed down as it was cold out to about 650rpm. Revved it up and it didn't drop below 600rpm. I thought is it really possible that I fixed this just by cleaning the TB and changing the Spark Plugs???? Took for a test drive and sure enough no more almost dying while stopping!! Just wanted to share my story and results from ALL My DIY Labor Saving work! :) Thanks, Brannen
What data did you have indicating this wasa the issue and not just random guessing though? Why would you have run lucas fuel cleaner through it? WHat was the LTFT indicating you had a fuel deficit issue related to injection? What made you investigate the MAF and TB? WHat was the IAC position indicating? WHat was the LTFT against load? ALso why did changing the plugs help- what was the misfire rate- changing plugs ONLY will help if you have misfire due to bad plugs. What misfire indications showed that the ignition secondary was in tacxt except for the plugs only? How did you do that analysis? You never stated how you knew to isolate the issue scientifically and specifically.
If laughing was dangerous to my health then I would have died laughing at the "struggles" with the hood and air filter removal. Always, always, always, check basics. I had no tools with me several days ago and my car wouldn't start. Thought of some relays that I'd seen be the problem before....but the battery terminals were just dirty. Wow. I've done that solution so many times...remember basics. Don't kill me for this, but that's why I like Scotty Kilmer. He's on the opposite end and reminds of where to start. The basics!
I thoroughly enjoyed the bolt-by-bolt instructions. Very detailed, very easy to follow. Would watch on laptop while working on a Hummer. It's so good that I think it might even apply to different vehicles. 10/10.
Hahahaha "i may apply it to different vehicles" Oh shooooot. If I had a dime for everyone who asked "How would I do x on car y, it's different than car z in your video...".
I have been viewing a couple of your videos on auto enginuity and was wanting to get the autoenginuity software and was just wanting to know what you recommended for do it your selfers that are just starting out.
Anthony Rodriguez ACtually I myself was considering the Harbor Freight scantool just to have one in my car at all times for field diagnostics and such. I see no reason that wouldnt be great for a beginner and well under $200
+Schrodingers Box Old post, but what the heck. I've got one of the Harbor Freight ones. It does the job well enough for basic OBD-II stuff. I found with our VW that I needed to invest in VCDS for my laptop. It's as close as the home DYI'er can get to the factory scan tools.
Matt, I have to thank you for this video. It was hilarious and provided a much needed humour break at work today! I herded the apprentices at work into the lunch room to watch the video. Thanks to you the theme for the week at my shop is now "Get what's in the way, out of the way" I figure this will save me answering about 100 questions this week alone! :) haha. Good diag and info as always. The basics are often overlooked but can really save you a lot of time and headaches if remembered to be checked first :)
Ha, if I may say, the mantra saved my sanity- the very next car after this one was a front differential swap. Seemed like cake- just one bolt partially covered by maybe 1/4 an inch behind a tranny mount was my only obstacle. But then it becomes one of those things where you find you have to move the sway bar to remove the tranny mount- and you can't remove the sway bar because the axleshaft blocks access... on down the line. Usually I would curse my whole life that some evil engineer couldn't move the trans mount just 1/4 of a F()%n inch- really, just 1/4 of an inch creates this whole cascade of things I have to remove. But instead "Get what's in the way out of the way by removing what attaches it" kept echoing in my mind and I actually laughed my way through the process!
Love the vid. And yea, the H3 is an awesome ride. Need so advice. My H3 was doing the stumble right after startup and the ideas a really rough. I was under the hood one day and the truck was running. I reached in and disconnected the MAF. while it was running. It stumbled and tried to die . I pluged it back in and it smoothed out, sort of. A ha an air flow problem. Took the air box apart and pulled my K&N filter out. It was worse than the filter you pulled out of the H3 in the vid. Cleaned it up, re-oiled and replaced. Did a little more research and decided that it would not hurt to clean the MAF. Back to the auto parts store and bought MAF cleaner. Removed MAF and cleaned. Allow to dry for a couple of hours and reinstalled. Cranked up the truck and it did not stumble and the idle was better but not like I like it. Still a little shaky. That was about 3 or 4 months ago. It still stumbled a little on start up once in a while. Well, this week it has stumbled on start up really badly several times and the idle is back to rough. Going to replace the MAF. I am an old shade tree mechanic so I have none of the really cool electronic diagnostic tools. Am I on the right track? I have not cleaned the throttle body. Would that help? I am not that familiar with throttle bodies, carb man here, and I don't really understand why they could cause the problem because they are just a butterfly or at least that is what I think they are. Anyway, any help is greatly appreciated.
You cannot unplug a MAF to determine there is an airflow problem due to the backup algorithms with the MAP. Everyone does this and if you do, you're gonna replace the MAF every time. You have to use the basic MAF data in order to determine if there is an issue- specifically, what is the volumetric effiency and airflow data showing in relation to the hotwire voltage regulation?
That's a good question, I basically used some intuition from research on Hummer H3 common problems. I found a video with the idle that sounded very similar to my startup concerns. I then looked at the top 3 issues that compose the problem areas people most have. I also checked the air filter to make sure the service station had actually been checking it out properly. I cleaned the MAFS, and then moved to the throttle body and spent some time cleaning it up, it was really dirty. It seems to have helped somewhat, but I still have an idle issue for about 10 seconds at startup. It does not die it just "chugs" along at first, then smooth's out and runs just fine. I have used a heavy duty fuel system cleaner also. So I guess my next step is the Solenoid Actuator. Any suggestions are much appreciated, I am a tinkerer and enjoy working on vehicles and diagnosing minor to moderate problems on my own. Thanks again keep making videos.
That's not deductive reasoning. Thats actually not even reasoning. There is no data at all So you cannot deductively eliminate variables. for example- a failing fuel pump would also cause these same symptoms. what deductive reasoning did you do that a fuel pump is not one of your possible causes? What is the TPS% and voltage? What is the fuel trim static vs load that elimatesvrhe fuel pump- or EGR valve or MAP as he cause of there problem? How did you even deduce that it must be a stoichiometric problem in fact? If you want to diagnose this you have to do deductive reasoning not guessing Get some data and eliminate variables scientifically.
first off i want to say i enjoyed this video and the step by step process.'' i appreciate you showing the process. Very useful Vid. But I just recently purchase a h3 hummer black and i have been having a problem with my hummer stalling on turns and sometimes when driving up heel. took it to the dealer they said it was my transfer case they replace it for free under warranty. Haven't had a problem for 2 or 3 weeks now. until today i was driving to work this morning on the highway and it stall/stoped as i was going up heel. Gradually as I pulled off to the side of the freeway my oil light kept blinking on and off. It immediately started back up. So i press my way on to work no signs of oil light are stalling. Any idea what that could be???? Help Anyone
Dorance West Sounds to me like your oil level or oil pressure may be low. I don't know about Hummers but many GM trucks do have a fuel pump shutoff for engine protection when oil light comes on. The low oil level would explain turns and hills causing the issue. This will also cause same if fuel if very low- hills or turns move the little remaining fuel away from the pump so no fuel pickup and vehicle dies.
Just FYI...the 5 cyl engine in the 06 Hummer H3 is a Volvo engine. I have 183K on mine, air filter is good, still gets a rough idle even after TB was cleaned, full tune up and o2 sensors all replaced. It drives great, but that check engine light with the 0442 code NEVER goes away. Small evap leak. Changed the gas cap as recommended, but that did nothing. Any suggestions for a DIY?
Brilliant humour! Now we know "Let's get what is in the way - out of the way". Love your sense of humour Matt and it certainly gets the point across - use your brain!
+mrghiax Lol- common sense is a much rarer commodity than would be expected. How many times I am asked "how do you remove this or that when the alternator bracket is in the way?". I just don't for the life of me understand why the first thing that comes to mind is to remove that bracket. Maybe it's just me.
Good thinking! I also had considered that (thus validating the good thinking lol) and my explanation is since the air filter is before the MAF the system is indeed proportioning fuel to the metered air- the system has no way of knowing less metered air is coming than than normal, but it is accurately measuring the incoming air and thus no rich condition. Had the restriction been AFTER the MAF then yes, there would be a very rich condition detected. The IAC is open not because the engine "knows" therre is an air restriction, technically, it is just responding the the learned consistent low idle due to the air restriction. If that makes sense. Great observation Thomas!
Schrodingers Box I had a restricted intake on a car not too long ago, and it too did not have any fuel trim codes / issues. I get that as long as the fuel matches what the MAF is seeing, trims should be in fine... but I had expected overall metering to be on the negative, since the given volume of air for the engine cid / altitude was less than what a non restricted filter would pass (according to fuel map). I'm probably not expressing my thought process correctly... was never good at public speaking, even less via a keyboard. IAC increase makes sense due to restricted flow, just can't see why the above idle trim would be positive, when less air is coming in that the ECM has already accounted for via the MAF. Ouch... I feel a headache coming! LOL
***** No I read you loud and clear dude, it makes perfect sense. The thing is the car (well this car at least) obviously does not have "expectations" for MAF, MAP, or other air intake settings at idle that it is comparing to say "Hey, there's a lot less air coming in like I would expect". Since there is no baseline to draw from, the MAF, MAP and IAC do not flag anything. I have mentioned before in a previous video that it seems to me a sustained high IAC at idle would be reasonable cause to set a check engine light because there is no reason for a 20% IAC at idle unless you are at Mount Everest or something but apparently this is just not programmed in.
What scan tool are you using on your PC? Also when taking out a bolt , is it loosey lefty righty tighty? Or is it loosey righty , tighty lefty? Love your content.
awesome video! I had a question in regards to a similar problem with my 07 gmc I have a new air filter in the vehicle and have noticed that when I'm stopped at a stop light the rpm will fluctuate and the vehicle tends to stumble or idle a lil rough. I'm sort of stuck between the EGR or TPS.
Another great video and prime example of sometimes not being able to see the forest through the trees. A good visual inspection along with the basics can go along way. Thanks for the chuckles! One comment on bolt by bolt break downs. Although I agree with you on that philosophy, I would have liked to have viewed the cleaning process of the Volvo throttle body. Did you disassemble it or do a basic cleaning of the throat and exterior? BTW I have a harbor freight scanner; great for keeping in the car, but for more In depth diagnosis, I plan on investing in the auto ingenuity software. The harbor freight unit I bought is not bi-directional! Thanks for the great videos!
Chuck Sinclair Yes your analogy is very accurate- one of the things that often happens when you learn more advanced diagnostics is it's easy to forget the most basic things. You start analyzing fuel trim and thinking of voltage drop at the fuel pump or MAP sensor miscalibration and it never even occurs to you that the air filter might be dirty. This was a good lesson in remembering the approach a total beginner might actually have taken and found the problem sooner lol. For cleaning the TB- simple external cleaning with carb cleaner and a toothbrush. In fact, many idle control problems I come across can actually be fixed with simple TB cleaning.
hahaha Bold by bolt is nice if there are tricks to making a bastard repair easier but the diagnostic is the most important. I'm in engine performance classes finishing up the last part of my degree and we don't practice parts replacement we practice diag. These videos have been amazing!
Great videos,no more bolt by bolt sequences please! Can I ask you, looking at long term fuel trim, when the car accelerates wouldn't it be normal to see a rise in the long term fuel trim figures? You seem to imply that a rise in long term fuel trim is not normal during an acceleration? Thanks for your help and great diagnostic videos.
Excellent question Jonathan and I see where you are coming from but no, you should not see a FT rise in acceleration. Remember the incoming air is measured so when you open the throttle, the excess air is immediately measured and injector pulsewidth will immediately increase as a result to ensure the mixture is still 14.7:1 before it enters the cylinder. If you see an increase in FT with acceleration, it is because for some reason not enough fuel was delivered (low fuel pressure, dirty MAF, etc). Hope that explains it.
Schrodingers Box Thanks for the reply,helps to clarify it all in my mind! Thanks again for taking the time to make your videos and replying to questions,its really helpful.
Its located either at the harmonic balancer or the flywheel. Just think about it- where else can it be, right? Think in terms of function and it tells you the location.
Don't get wrapped around the axle. LOL Your doing just fine. FYI: In the Army we have air restriction gauges on all vehicles. A little hose to the air box to the gauge in the cab measures low pressure has a little scale yellow to red. Good job.
My 2007 H3 had this stumbling at idle issue. A local mechanic told me the butterfly in the throttle body gets carboned up at the bottom not allowing it to open and close properly. He said I could use his throttle control cleaning. ($150) or use a can of seafoam intake cleaner, ($8). The seafoam has a long hose which goes into the hose at the throttle body. Cleared the problem right up.
+Schrodingers Box I got lucky and found a guy that had seen the problem. If you pulled off the short hose between the air box and throttle body you should be able to see any build up on the butterfly. Not sure how to diagnose it.
***** Well I dont deal with lucky guesses here- I deal in scientific diagnostics. When you saw this video and you saw the %TPS and LTFT would a dirty throttle body be your diagnosis?
Love the videos, keep it up. I have a satirical sense of humor as well. I am currently dealing with a rough idle at start-up and have watched a few you tube videos. I have came to the conclusion, through deductive reasoning...it is either my MAFS, throttle body, or air filter. I am however guilty of not checking my air filter, due to assuming the dealership was doing it properly. I am fairly savvy on moderate repairs for vehicles, but have become laxed since purchasing the H3. Doing all 3 tomorrow MASF, Throttle, and filter!
Yeah I may have misspoke, or stated my process incorrectly. I do not have any diagnostic equipment at the moment, to analyze the data you are referring to. I plan to try and obtain some, or take it a friend who has plenty of equipment. I just tried a few common repairs that are "usually" the idle issue, in my case no such luck. If I get the information, I will post it so you can take a look.
Excellent video series. No more bolt by bolt please. Thank you. Also, given the air filter need I would immediately wonder when this driver last had the spark plugs changed. Did you check at least one plug?
Ha thanks Sandbag- yeah I ruffled some feathers on this one with the bolt thing but it's just not the purpose of my channel. Look at the comments on any Eric The Car Guy video- do I really want those complete morons bugging me all day with thousands of such stupid questions? You are absolutely right- not only about the plugs (they had normal wear actually) but I also found the oil wasn't changed in- get this--- 16000 miles!! Soon after this video the hummer got basic maintenance as expected, but really it was changing the air filter that had noticeable effect on the engine performance.
Excellent video my friend...excellent! -- That said, I have an interesting question for you on the Hummer H3 engines...where is the PCV valve? I know that there is a rubber tube from the air box connecting the air filter to the throttle body, which then connects to a nipple on the valve cover near the back of the engine, but that doesn't seem to come out. Therefore, I'm thinking its not the PCV valve. So, where did they put the PCV valve? Thanks, Calixto 2006 Hummer H3
That was funny! No need for the bolt by bolt I love your videos as they are and that's coming from a DIYer wanting to learn more like you say if it's in the way look for a way to either get round it or take it out the way, planning is key here just taking a minute to think things over. Your content has always been about the diagnostics and getting it right first time. There are lots of people who do bolt by bolt they're interesting to but there are other people to watch for that sort of thing! Your channel is great as it is please don't change it. Steve.
One note , I found with the H3 engine was between the air filter box and the throttle body is a collection box to recycle the crankcase fumes. Man that thing was full of brown crud. It was so bad that i immediately checked the dip stick to see if I had a mix. It looked good.I believe this is what causes the throttle to get so bad as was mentioned in a prior post.Note the hose that connects the outlet on the top of the injector cover to that box was soft and needed to be replaced.
What you are referring to is PCV or Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Yes they do get cruddy for sure. When I see negative fuel trims I often check PCV as a potential culprit. The PCV hoses always get really mushy like that because of the oil in them- one of the failures with PCV is collapsed hoses because engine vacuum causes them to collapse on themselves and preventing PCV valve operation. I have had some so bad that just in act of checking them, my fingers went right through them like they were made of mashed potato lol.
I really want to thank you for this video >> my 2007 hummer H3 almost dies when comes to a stop and i tried many things to solve this issue till i watched your tip regarding the air filter and after i changed it with GM parts air filter it is fine and running very smooth, I know it is an old video but i have to place my thanks
Dang if I forgot to include that, my apologies. Yes I agree- that would have been good to show and guess I forgot all about it when the vehicle smoothed out. Possible (and actually probable) the LTFT was not related to the filter.
As for the hood problem, the H3 has an air cylinder with a positive hood up lock. If you push the hood a little more then you think you should it will lock up. Ask me how I know.
I have an H3 and after having my bald head hit a time or two I really pushed the hood in anger and to my surprise it went up about 6" more and stayed there and it had a lot of resistance to pull it down. It is not intuitive.
Thank you for the videos. I can't believe somebody called them useless. It's not difficult to remove parts lol. He's probably a 98 percenter lol. Keep up the great work! This video reminds me of my '81 F150. It ran poorly and was burning super rich with hardly any power. After taking off the air cleaner it ran great and upon looking at the air filter it was pitch black, no light what so ever could get through. Lol. After talking to my dad found out it wasn't changed in 14 years.
My guess is it had never been changed in the 138K miles plus it has offroaded a lot of times in the denver mountains. You could absolutely feel the weight of the old filter- it easily weighed 4-5X the new one. Never seen anything like it. Also the oil hadn't been changed in 16K miles. Makes me wonder why the hood shocks were weak- hood was barely ever opened lol!
Dude that was a great video , I have the same vehicle with the same problem , I upgraded the cold air intake sistem for one from k&n and still have the same problem until I saw your video , what I did is clean up the throttle body and let me tell you that hummer is like new, don't have any problem after that. I can tell you that because I drove from Md to Co Springs wich is like 25 hrs without stop and and didn't feel a thing . It works 50 hrs on the rd will prove it. Good luck good video and nice state of Colorado.
Yes Colorado is beautiful ain't it? Glad this worked. Actually cleaning the throttle body and MAF sensor on any car that hasn't had it done in 100K miles will usually have the same effect on noticeable idle improvement and accelerator response. In fact, with new customers, sometimes I will do this procedure on my own just so I can have them feel a difference after I worked on their car so they get a favorable impression of my work.
That was a fast response , it's good to know little details on fixing simple stuff on vehicles specially when you know that you are going to drive far away because you don't wanna be with your car broken in the middle of no where I'm talking about Kansas driving on I 70. Good luck n thank you.
The ironic dumb comedy helps me feel less like a useless human on fixing some simple problems. Thanks for the share and also for helping myself find out how to fix my new user vehicle.
The PCM is not very picky about some things... I had my H3 first idle kind of strange sometimes, still no codes. Finally it quit completely at traffic stop, all ok but no start or run. The reason was burned ignition fuse number 33 because the coil feed wire had worn against cylinder head and shorted finally completely. Still no codes, no clue with Tech2. Just old-fashioned fault to find and fix.
it would have been nice to see a throttle position percent before the clogged air filter was removed just for informational purposes (how much tolerance the system allows). and thanks for showing how to open a hood and airbox. all these years I have asked people to do that for me. haha great video as always.
Man your videos are awesome, this one made me LOL with the airbox.. I'm having a problem with my 2012 Civic.. got 165k miles on it and have been having a rough idle that is very bad on cold starts.. feels like my entire car is pulsing. I am also having consistent hesitation. No roughness while driving, just at idle or when slowing down from 5mph to 0mph. My MAF was cleaned, new air filter, and LTFT is 0.8% but I have similar symptoms as in this video.. my throttle position percentage is at 16-17% while idle. No CEL, ever. I can see a lot of carbon buildup in my electronic throttle body. Is this safe to clean while on the car or should it be removed? I would assume I can use a soft brush and TB cleaner, then do an idle relearn. Thanks, keep it up. Wish I was in Denver so I could hire you for all of my issues. Edit: could my PCV valve potentially cause hesitation? It does need replacing as well, doing that tomorrow.
My H3 was doing the same ,stumble and stall. Computer coded air mass sensor. I dismantled the air intake parts. Cleaned the sensor with CRC electronic cleaner and removed the throttle body . Cleaned the butterfly with carb cleaner and a toothbrush . Reinstalled all and had no problem. ( diss connect batt. during this procedure) I need to drive it for a while to let the Comp. to reset and check for codes again. Yes , that air filter was really bad on your H3.
Trust me they know. The car I did the cylinder head gasket testing on... it had such a horrific smell inside it I had to call the customer and ask if I could spray it with Old Spice. But after doing so, the car smelled really strange and maybe even worse... because it smelled just like old spice.
To answer the question about hummer not starting. I too have to wait 15 minutes and I was told by a mechanic it could possibly be connected to the security system??. I just wait and am always early when going somewhat in case it doesn't start. One of these days I'll fix it.
dude, this video was supper helpful. I'm looking into buying an H3, and you described the exact issue the one I test drove. I'm gonna look into it, if that's all it is I'm buying a Hummer. 8-)
no the o2s would indicate a rich condition so the ecm pulls back on fuel hense the fuel trim values ^-^, tac modules suck, the way the system works is the computer reads the maf or map data (depending on loop status and ambient conditions) and adds fuel to those values, the 02 sensors provide fuel mix data during colsed loop and the ecm reacts by coming up with a short term trim value, the ecm has a pre set trim value for open loop operation, this helps for diagnosing o2s
MATT, I SAW SOMETHING AMAZING. ACCORDING TO THE WAY YOU THOUGHT ME I THINK A CAR CANNOT IDLE IF THE CRANK SENSOR IS UNPLUGED. BUT IT DID IDLE RECENTLY AND I WAS SUPRISED . ONLT THE REF COUNTER WAS NOT COUNTING. IS THAT REALLY POSSIBLE OR MAYBE I WAS DREAMING? M.B.S MOSHITOA (S AFRICA)
What a smartass, we welcome you into the automotive community, you fit the bill Matt, haha. Just don't tell anyone that an Astro Van takes Astroglide for trans fluid.
thump down for not showing bolt by bolt man that is not right you are putting so much time and effort for giving nice free video and free.thanks for the video
It is called complacency and/or lack of knowledge. I have been working on cars for the better part of 40 years and I over looked the air filter in my H3. And since the H3 in the vid belonged to a woman, she probably does not even know how to open the hood, much less change the air filter and who know when she had the oil changed. Not dissing women, just stating fact. People do not take care of their cars like we used to. They get in the and drive them. They never check the oil, or air pressure in the tires. I check my oil, and make sure all of the various tank caps are in place and the general appearance of my engine compartment at every other gas fill up. I am typically the only person there with the hood up on his truck or car. and people look at me funny.
You are a funny guy, thanks for the entertaining video. I laughed out loud, a sure sign of quality entertainment! Anyway, those bolt by bolt never leave a thing out of the entire process vids are usually required by the millenials. They weren't taught deductive reasoning, they were given trophies for just being. They feel they should not HAVE to figure it out if it has already been done. After all, they are such precious beings that have tremendous self esteem because mommy always told them how special they are. God help us if we ever suffer an emp attack in the future and they are in charge!
That was a Humdinger Matt. Here's some professional diagnostic advice from a level 3 - tech 4 unlicensed doityourselfer. Sitting in the drivers seat with KOEO cold engine I always look at these pids first. - IAT- ECT-TPS-MAF and I assume you did the same but as usual you refused to go step by step - I also came close to giving you a thumb's down but I am such a forgiving person plus its not often I see a hummer on TH-cam. You are the first person I have ever seen do a hummer on TH-cam. Would I be correct in assuming the TPS was at 6% KOEO and once you started up the hummer you noticed the incorrect TPS % . As for no MIL that would depend on the threshold programed into the PCM- I imagine if the throttle was any more open the hummer would definitely expel a DTC. This women drove from Denver Colorado to see you in Louisiana to check out her hummer - Boy your good. You make fantastic vids Matt. :)
Steve, the KOEO idea is brilliant, dang I wish I had thought of that and now I really regret not doing that because I can see what an awesome diagnostic strategy that is! I bet that I would have got exactly the TPS data you predicted but now we'll never know. I should have done that on the Volvo too a couple vids back. But as ETCM's become more common I am sure I'll have opportunity to try this. Man, that advice alone is worth the production of the video- Thanks so much, I hope other see this comment!! If I get a chance to analyze an ECTM with an odd TPS position again I will be sure to show this and credit you for the idea. I am indeed familiar with the ECT/IAT trick at cold engine to verify the ECT is reading accurate (and IAT).
Actually, in retrospect, I remember on the Volvo when I tried to do KOEO and move the throttle pedal to see response from the ETCM, there was no activity unless I started the engine so maybe the trick above wouldn't work because there is no position adjustment with KOEO?? Still a brilliant strategy even if it can't apply though.
Actually in re-retrospect the Volvos throttle plate was open because of hydrocarbon buildup on the mating surfaces and thus I am purely taking a professional wild educated guess that the electronic throttle position sensor could not close to required position and thus the KOEO pid did not report until the ETCM was live because there was a DTC set and it was not a logical reading for a start-up - imagine if it was stuck completely open- I suspect euro smarty pants programing. I only went to university for 6 years so with such a lack of education I really cant comment on euro cars with any confidence. In hindsight it would have been nice to look at the pid KOEO after the cleaning but you may have an opportunity in the future if the car comes back to satisfy our curiosity. Or even better you can call Scannerdanner and he could give us the correct answer . Louisiana to Pittsburgh is easier for you to call because Paul would not be able to figure out a Morse code message from Canada. LOL
Jeeese Matt I must apologize I just took it for granted - to me you have an accent , I thought it was Cajun but I'm from Canada so its not like we hear people from Denver either except John Denver and you know he never had an accent. Up here once a week I listen to the best automotive phone in radio podcast in the USA from guess where Louisiana. This is the link if your interested. www.agcoauto.com/content/Radio
Worse one I've had for a filter was a K-Car. (yeah, I just showed my age). I changed it out for the customer without asking--as it was totally and we're talking "Fully" loaded with dirt and oil...and more dirt. This car wouldn't idle at all and couldn't get out of it's own way. The customer flipped out on me. He didn't think that air filter did any good and it never had to be changed. I told him "Drive the car for a couple of days. If it's worse or no improvement? I'll repay you for the cost of the oil change and the air filter" The guy showed up 2 days later with a speeding ticket. He was blown away by how much power the engine actually had when it could breath. (Yes I also did the PCV valve at the same time. LOL)
+Tedybear315 Yes this filter was so heavy I thought it would crush under its own weight! I have also seen older cars with PCV problems where the filter soaked with oil.
Great video. I particularly liked the tutorial on how to remove the top of the air box. I already knew how to open the hood. From now on, i will be able to replace the air filter, on a Hummer H3, anyway!!! :)
i think you made your point. yeah maybe bolt by bolt aint your thing. But for me IDC about it anyways diagnosis is why im here, anybody can see what needs to be removed.
+ATOM09 What was the data you got from your diagnostic analysis that indicated and air restriction was the cause? Obviously revisiting that data should help.
always great....can not make everyone happy.....but bolt by bolt may be overkill but sometimes helpful with hidden bolts , etc,,,,,,, thanks again...bob
My Hummer H3 sometimes does not start. It cranks, battery is good but it just wont start. When left alone for about 10 or 15 minutes it will start. It will run perfectly for few days or so then the problem comes back. Has anyone else have similar problem and what is the fix. Changed all coils, plugs, etc.
Thanks. Funny and informative. I'm all for the accurate diagnostics, car tech or medical tech. But I'm not so tough on the disassembly aspects of many videos. Sometimes the attachment points and sequences of work are not apparent, even to a thinker. The Japanese are particularly sublime about how some things come apart. Even some electrical connectors have non-standard release clips. Same for fuel lines. I even like to see how tight the pros "muscle" a fastener as not all are torque wrench accessible. But don't let the "useless" critics get to you. Their primary objective is to annoy you and get attention. Pretend they don't exist, they get frustrated and go away to pick on someone else. Don't take too long off...........................
Duly noted WD. Indeed some R&R is not intuitive or is deceptively not as intuitive as it would seem (carrier bearing replacement in a differential for example). my thinking is people can find 20,000 channels and 100 million videos on doin stuff like that.
You have to understand that these younger generations were not taught to fix or clean anything. Just buy a new part or whatever. I am the farthest thing from a car mechanic, but I use COMMON SENSE to run down problems. When noechanic could figure out what was wrong with my Suburban, I finally climbed up on the engine, and using common sense, had it running like a top until I totalled it. Going through the same problems mentioned in your video w my daughter's 2007 H3. Your video showed me what I needed to see to find the problem, and it's much appreciated. We would get along well as after 31 years of tattooing, I have NO tolerance for idiots. Merry Christmas!!!
please don't get mad at people who want a bolt by bolt because i'm a 57 woman who needs help with my H3 my husband is handycapped now I do what I can so I appreciate all your videos THANKS AGAIN.
Matt,
I have had a rough idle issue for almost 6 months now on my 2006 H3 with 65k since I bought it. It usually wants to drop to below 500rpm if it is revved in neutral or when I come to a stop and being so low of an idle caused the shift from 2nd to 1st "bang" if you will every time but If I held my foot on the gas while stopping it did not do this. I took your advice here about two months ago and changed out the filter....it wasn't too bad but did it anyhow. Also started running Lucus Fuel cleaner thru on every fill up of 93 octane. Still didn't fix the problem. I flushed the entire vehicle (every fluid from the front diff, transfer case, rear diff, transmission and oil with MOBIL 1 full synthetic. It was obvious nothing, including the oil and filter had NEVER been changed! Still no fix for my original problem but I'm sure help other problems that were just around the corner!
So recently I decided this week to tear out the MAF sensor and Throttle Body for a cleaning......man did the TB need it! It was almost black in color! Then I thought well while I'm here I may as well look into these spark plugs......Yikes! None of this had ever been cleaned or changed as well. So once I put everything back together I fired her up and FINALLY it was fixed!!! I couldn't believe that it actually went up to like 1500rpm initially and then calmed down as it was cold out to about 650rpm. Revved it up and it didn't drop below 600rpm. I thought is it really possible that I fixed this just by cleaning the TB and changing the Spark Plugs???? Took for a test drive and sure enough no more almost dying while stopping!!
Just wanted to share my story and results from ALL My DIY Labor Saving work! :)
Thanks,
Brannen
What data did you have indicating this wasa the issue and not just random guessing though? Why would you have run lucas fuel cleaner through it? WHat was the LTFT indicating you had a fuel deficit issue related to injection? What made you investigate the MAF and TB? WHat was the IAC position indicating? WHat was the LTFT against load?
ALso why did changing the plugs help- what was the misfire rate- changing plugs ONLY will help if you have misfire due to bad plugs. What misfire indications showed that the ignition secondary was in tacxt except for the plugs only? How did you do that analysis?
You never stated how you knew to isolate the issue scientifically and specifically.
@@SchrodingersBox by using a code reader..... it tells ya these things...
@@capitaldd5840 There is no code reader that would possibly tell you these things. Not a single one. Not even a professional scantool
Great job Matt, i prefer the technical aspect rather than bolt by bolt so keep doing what you do dude.
If laughing was dangerous to my health then I would have died laughing at the "struggles" with the hood and air filter removal.
Always, always, always, check basics. I had no tools with me several days ago and my car wouldn't start. Thought of some relays that I'd seen be the problem before....but the battery terminals were just dirty.
Wow. I've done that solution so many times...remember basics. Don't kill me for this, but that's why I like Scotty Kilmer. He's on the opposite end and reminds of where to start. The basics!
DE Nichols l
I thoroughly enjoyed the bolt-by-bolt instructions. Very detailed, very easy to follow. Would watch on laptop while working on a Hummer. It's so good that I think it might even apply to different vehicles. 10/10.
Hahahaha "i may apply it to different vehicles" Oh shooooot. If I had a dime for everyone who asked "How would I do x on car y, it's different than car z in your video...".
You always so funny. I really don't know if I wait for your videos more for the content or your sense of humor. Good job. Thanks.
Thanks for the great uploads! I just spent the whole afternoon watching all your videos...Great job!
I have been viewing a couple of your videos on auto enginuity and was wanting to get the autoenginuity software and was just wanting to know what you recommended for do it your selfers that are just starting out.
Anthony Rodriguez ACtually I myself was considering the Harbor Freight scantool just to have one in my car at all times for field diagnostics and such. I see no reason that wouldnt be great for a beginner and well under $200
+Schrodingers Box Old post, but what the heck. I've got one of the Harbor Freight ones. It does the job well enough for basic OBD-II stuff. I found with our VW that I needed to invest in VCDS for my laptop. It's as close as the home DYI'er can get to the factory scan tools.
Matt, I have to thank you for this video. It was hilarious and provided a much needed humour break at work today! I herded the apprentices at work into the lunch room to watch the video. Thanks to you the theme for the week at my shop is now "Get what's in the way, out of the way" I figure this will save me answering about 100 questions this week alone! :) haha. Good diag and info as always. The basics are often overlooked but can really save you a lot of time and headaches if remembered to be checked first :)
Ha, if I may say, the mantra saved my sanity- the very next car after this one was a front differential swap. Seemed like cake- just one bolt partially covered by maybe 1/4 an inch behind a tranny mount was my only obstacle. But then it becomes one of those things where you find you have to move the sway bar to remove the tranny mount- and you can't remove the sway bar because the axleshaft blocks access... on down the line. Usually I would curse my whole life that some evil engineer couldn't move the trans mount just 1/4 of a F()%n inch- really, just 1/4 of an inch creates this whole cascade of things I have to remove. But instead "Get what's in the way out of the way by removing what attaches it" kept echoing in my mind and I actually laughed my way through the process!
Schrodingers Box That's wonderful! . . . and it normally really isn't. The sweetest things are marked against the bitter.
Love the vid. And yea, the H3 is an awesome ride.
Need so advice. My H3 was doing the stumble right after startup and the ideas a really rough. I was under the hood one day and the truck was running. I reached in and disconnected the MAF. while it was running. It stumbled and tried to die . I pluged it back in and it smoothed out, sort of. A ha an air flow problem. Took the air box apart and pulled my K&N filter out. It was worse than the filter you pulled out of the H3 in the vid. Cleaned it up, re-oiled and replaced. Did a little more research and decided that it would not hurt to clean the MAF. Back to the auto parts store and bought MAF cleaner. Removed MAF and cleaned. Allow to dry for a couple of hours and reinstalled. Cranked up the truck and it did not stumble and the idle was better but not like I like it. Still a little shaky. That was about 3 or 4 months ago. It still stumbled a little on start up once in a while. Well, this week it has stumbled on start up really badly several times and the idle is back to rough. Going to replace the MAF. I am an old shade tree mechanic so I have none of the really cool electronic diagnostic tools. Am I on the right track? I have not cleaned the throttle body. Would that help? I am not that familiar with throttle bodies, carb man here, and I don't really understand why they could cause the problem because they are just a butterfly or at least that is what I think they are.
Anyway, any help is greatly appreciated.
You cannot unplug a MAF to determine there is an airflow problem due to the backup algorithms with the MAP. Everyone does this and if you do, you're gonna replace the MAF every time. You have to use the basic MAF data in order to determine if there is an issue- specifically, what is the volumetric effiency and airflow data showing in relation to the hotwire voltage regulation?
That's a good question, I basically used some intuition from research on Hummer H3 common problems. I found a video with the idle that sounded very similar to my startup concerns. I then looked at the top 3 issues that compose the problem areas people most have. I also checked the air filter to make sure the service station had actually been checking it out properly. I cleaned the MAFS, and then moved to the throttle body and spent some time cleaning it up, it was really dirty. It seems to have helped somewhat, but I still have an idle issue for about 10 seconds at startup. It does not die it just "chugs" along at first, then smooth's out and runs just fine. I have used a heavy duty fuel system cleaner also. So I guess my next step is the Solenoid Actuator. Any suggestions are much appreciated, I am a tinkerer and enjoy working on vehicles and diagnosing minor to moderate problems on my own. Thanks again keep making videos.
That's not deductive reasoning. Thats actually not even reasoning. There is no data at all So you cannot deductively eliminate variables. for example- a failing fuel pump would also cause these same symptoms. what deductive reasoning did you do that a fuel pump is not one of your possible causes? What is the TPS% and voltage? What is the fuel trim static vs load that elimatesvrhe fuel pump- or EGR valve or MAP as he cause of there problem? How did you even deduce that it must be a stoichiometric problem in fact?
If you want to diagnose this you have to do deductive reasoning not guessing Get some data and eliminate variables scientifically.
first off i want to say i enjoyed this video and the step by step process.'' i appreciate you showing the process. Very useful Vid. But I just recently purchase a h3 hummer black and i have been having a problem with my hummer stalling on turns and sometimes when driving up heel. took it to the dealer they said it was my transfer case they replace it for free under warranty. Haven't had a problem for 2 or 3 weeks now. until today i was driving to work this morning on the highway and it stall/stoped as i was going up heel. Gradually as I pulled off to the side of the freeway my oil light kept blinking on and off. It immediately started back up. So i press my way on to work no signs of oil light are stalling. Any idea what that could be???? Help Anyone
Dorance West Sounds to me like your oil level or oil pressure may be low. I don't know about Hummers but many GM trucks do have a fuel pump shutoff for engine protection when oil light comes on. The low oil level would explain turns and hills causing the issue. This will also cause same if fuel if very low- hills or turns move the little remaining fuel away from the pump so no fuel pickup and vehicle dies.
Just FYI...the 5 cyl engine in the 06 Hummer H3 is a Volvo engine.
I have 183K on mine, air filter is good, still gets a rough idle even after TB was cleaned, full tune up and o2 sensors all replaced. It drives great, but that check engine light with the 0442 code NEVER goes away. Small evap leak. Changed the gas cap as recommended, but that did nothing. Any suggestions for a DIY?
Thought they were Chev engines...?
Brilliant humour! Now we know "Let's get what is in the way - out of the way". Love your sense of humour Matt and it certainly gets the point across - use your brain!
+mrghiax Lol- common sense is a much rarer commodity than would be expected. How many times I am asked "how do you remove this or that when the alternator bracket is in the way?". I just don't for the life of me understand why the first thing that comes to mind is to remove that bracket.
Maybe it's just me.
I have the same issue vibrates at idle and when I stop what do I do no check engine light
What data do you have?
Should it not have been running rich and take fuel away due to restricted air flow?
Good thinking! I also had considered that (thus validating the good thinking lol) and my explanation is since the air filter is before the MAF the system is indeed proportioning fuel to the metered air- the system has no way of knowing less metered air is coming than than normal, but it is accurately measuring the incoming air and thus no rich condition. Had the restriction been AFTER the MAF then yes, there would be a very rich condition detected. The IAC is open not because the engine "knows" therre is an air restriction, technically, it is just responding the the learned consistent low idle due to the air restriction. If that makes sense. Great observation Thomas!
Schrodingers Box I had a restricted intake on a car not too long ago, and it too did not have any fuel trim codes / issues. I get that as long as the fuel matches what the MAF is seeing, trims should be in fine... but I had expected overall metering to be on the negative, since the given volume of air for the engine cid / altitude was less than what a non restricted filter would pass (according to fuel map). I'm probably not expressing my thought process correctly... was never good at public speaking, even less via a keyboard. IAC increase makes sense due to restricted flow, just can't see why the above idle trim would be positive, when less air is coming in that the ECM has already accounted for via the MAF. Ouch... I feel a headache coming! LOL
***** No I read you loud and clear dude, it makes perfect sense. The thing is the car (well this car at least) obviously does not have "expectations" for MAF, MAP, or other air intake settings at idle that it is comparing to say "Hey, there's a lot less air coming in like I would expect". Since there is no baseline to draw from, the MAF, MAP and IAC do not flag anything. I have mentioned before in a previous video that it seems to me a sustained high IAC at idle would be reasonable cause to set a check engine light because there is no reason for a 20% IAC at idle unless you are at Mount Everest or something but apparently this is just not programmed in.
What scan tool are you using on your PC? Also when taking out a bolt , is it loosey lefty righty tighty? Or is it loosey righty , tighty lefty? Love your content.
Autoenginuity is the scantool I use.
Your videos are excellent! Do not waste your nerves and time on those "bolt by bolt" requests. Many regards from a fellow biochemist!
Hi matt well do you know where I could get the wiring diagrams of cars.....I would pretty much appreciate it
if a person cannot figure out how to open the hood they better not get under it.
awesome video! I had a question in regards to a similar problem with my 07 gmc I have a new air filter in the vehicle and have noticed that when I'm stopped at a stop light the rpm will fluctuate and the vehicle tends to stumble or idle a lil rough. I'm sort of stuck between the EGR or TPS.
Anthony Rodriguez What did your diagnostic tests indicate that you have it narrowed to EGR or TPS?
Another great video and prime example of sometimes not being able to see the forest through the trees. A good visual inspection along with the basics can go along way.
Thanks for the chuckles!
One comment on bolt by bolt break downs. Although I agree with you on that philosophy, I would have liked to have viewed the cleaning process of the Volvo throttle body. Did you disassemble it or do a basic cleaning of the throat and exterior?
BTW I have a harbor freight scanner; great for keeping in the car, but for more
In depth diagnosis, I plan on investing in the auto ingenuity software. The harbor freight unit I bought is not bi-directional!
Thanks for the great videos!
Chuck Sinclair Yes your analogy is very accurate- one of the things that often happens when you learn more advanced diagnostics is it's easy to forget the most basic things. You start analyzing fuel trim and thinking of voltage drop at the fuel pump or MAP sensor miscalibration and it never even occurs to you that the air filter might be dirty. This was a good lesson in remembering the approach a total beginner might actually have taken and found the problem sooner lol. For cleaning the TB- simple external cleaning with carb cleaner and a toothbrush. In fact, many idle control problems I come across can actually be fixed with simple TB cleaning.
Hey..., thanks for the reply Matt! Again, great channel!
hahaha
Bold by bolt is nice if there are tricks to making a bastard repair easier but the diagnostic is the most important. I'm in engine performance classes finishing up the last part of my degree and we don't practice parts replacement we practice diag.
These videos have been amazing!
Great videos,no more bolt by bolt sequences please! Can I ask you, looking at long term fuel trim, when the car accelerates wouldn't it be normal to see a rise in the long term fuel trim figures? You seem to imply that a rise in long term fuel trim is not normal during an acceleration? Thanks for your help and great diagnostic videos.
Excellent question Jonathan and I see where you are coming from but no, you should not see a FT rise in acceleration. Remember the incoming air is measured so when you open the throttle, the excess air is immediately measured and injector pulsewidth will immediately increase as a result to ensure the mixture is still 14.7:1 before it enters the cylinder. If you see an increase in FT with acceleration, it is because for some reason not enough fuel was delivered (low fuel pressure, dirty MAF, etc). Hope that explains it.
Schrodingers Box Thanks for the reply,helps to clarify it all in my mind! Thanks again for taking the time to make your videos and replying to questions,its really helpful.
where is the crank sensor located at on a h3 Hummer 2006 I love your video but it does not show where the crank sensor located at
Its located either at the harmonic balancer or the flywheel. Just think about it- where else can it be, right? Think in terms of function and it tells you the location.
Don't get wrapped around the axle. LOL Your doing just fine. FYI: In the Army we have air restriction gauges on all vehicles. A little hose to the air box to the gauge in the cab measures low pressure has a little scale yellow to red. Good job.
My 2007 H3 had this stumbling at idle issue. A local mechanic told me the butterfly in the throttle body gets carboned up at the bottom not allowing it to open and close properly. He said I could use his throttle control cleaning. ($150) or use a can of seafoam intake cleaner, ($8). The seafoam has a long hose which goes into the hose at the throttle body. Cleared the problem right up.
+James Seiling What if that's not the problem though- how would you diagnose it?
+Schrodingers Box I got lucky and found a guy that had seen the problem. If you pulled off the short hose between the air box and throttle body you should be able to see any build up on the butterfly. Not sure how to diagnose it.
***** Well I dont deal with lucky guesses here- I deal in scientific diagnostics.
When you saw this video and you saw the %TPS and LTFT would a dirty throttle body be your diagnosis?
Love the videos, keep it up. I have a satirical sense of humor as well. I am currently dealing with a rough idle at start-up and have watched a few you tube videos. I have came to the conclusion, through deductive reasoning...it is either my MAFS, throttle body, or air filter. I am however guilty of not checking my air filter, due to assuming the dealership was doing it properly. I am fairly savvy on moderate repairs for vehicles, but have become laxed since purchasing the H3. Doing all 3 tomorrow MASF, Throttle, and filter!
What is the deductive reasoning you used that those are your only variables? What is the data you got that necessitates that conclusion.
Yeah I may have misspoke, or stated my process incorrectly. I do not have any diagnostic equipment at the moment, to analyze the data you are referring to. I plan to try and obtain some, or take it a friend who has plenty of equipment. I just tried a few common repairs that are "usually" the idle issue, in my case no such luck. If I get the information, I will post it so you can take a look.
point out the hood lever and how you accessed it from outside please
Im just getting into auto repair. How were you able to read all that data in real time? was that an OBD tool?
Yes- it's called autoenginuity
Excellent video series. No more bolt by bolt please. Thank you. Also, given the air filter need I would immediately wonder when this driver last had the spark plugs changed. Did you check at least one plug?
Ha thanks Sandbag- yeah I ruffled some feathers on this one with the bolt thing but it's just not the purpose of my channel. Look at the comments on any Eric The Car Guy video- do I really want those complete morons bugging me all day with thousands of such stupid questions?
You are absolutely right- not only about the plugs (they had normal wear actually) but I also found the oil wasn't changed in- get this--- 16000 miles!! Soon after this video the hummer got basic maintenance as expected, but really it was changing the air filter that had noticeable effect on the engine performance.
Excellent video my friend...excellent! -- That said, I have an interesting question for you on the Hummer H3 engines...where is the PCV valve? I know that there is a rubber tube from the air box connecting the air filter to the throttle body, which then connects to a nipple on the valve cover near the back of the engine, but that doesn't seem to come out. Therefore, I'm thinking its not the PCV valve. So, where did they put the PCV valve?
Thanks,
Calixto
2006 Hummer H3
Not all cars have a PCV but if they do then obviously the valve must be located between an oil vapor port and the intake.
That was funny! No need for the bolt by bolt I love your videos as they are and that's coming from a DIYer wanting to learn more like you say if it's in the way look for a way to either get round it or take it out the way, planning is key here just taking a minute to think things over. Your content has always been about the diagnostics and getting it right first time. There are lots of people who do bolt by bolt they're interesting to but there are other people to watch for that sort of thing! Your channel is great as it is please don't change it. Steve.
One note , I found with the H3 engine was between the air filter box and the throttle body is a collection box to recycle the crankcase fumes. Man that thing was full of brown crud. It was so bad that i immediately checked the dip stick to see if I had a mix. It looked good.I believe this is what causes the throttle to get so bad as was mentioned in a prior post.Note the hose that connects the outlet on the top of the injector cover to that box was soft and needed to be replaced.
What you are referring to is PCV or Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Yes they do get cruddy for sure. When I see negative fuel trims I often check PCV as a potential culprit. The PCV hoses always get really mushy like that because of the oil in them- one of the failures with PCV is collapsed hoses because engine vacuum causes them to collapse on themselves and preventing PCV valve operation. I have had some so bad that just in act of checking them, my fingers went right through them like they were made of mashed potato lol.
I really want to thank you for this video >> my 2007 hummer H3 almost dies when comes to a stop and i tried many things to solve this issue till i watched your tip regarding the air filter and after i changed it with GM parts air filter it is fine and running very smooth, I know it is an old video but i have to place my thanks
i'm curious to see the long term fuel trim after the air filter was replaced
Dang if I forgot to include that, my apologies. Yes I agree- that would have been good to show and guess I forgot all about it when the vehicle smoothed out. Possible (and actually probable) the LTFT was not related to the filter.
As for the hood problem, the H3 has an air cylinder with a positive hood up lock. If you push the hood a little more then you think you should it will lock up. Ask me how I know.
Hahaha i didn't know that!! I'd feel pretty dumb if that were it!!
I have an H3 and after having my bald head hit a time or two I really pushed the hood in anger and to my surprise it went up about 6" more and stayed there and it had a lot of resistance to pull it down. It is not intuitive.
Thank you for the videos. I can't believe somebody called them useless. It's not difficult to remove parts lol. He's probably a 98 percenter lol. Keep up the great work! This video reminds me of my '81 F150. It ran poorly and was burning super rich with hardly any power. After taking off the air cleaner it ran great and upon looking at the air filter it was pitch black, no light what so ever could get through. Lol. After talking to my dad found out it wasn't changed in 14 years.
How many miles did that air filter run ?
My guess is it had never been changed in the 138K miles plus it has offroaded a lot of times in the denver mountains. You could absolutely feel the weight of the old filter- it easily weighed 4-5X the new one. Never seen anything like it.
Also the oil hadn't been changed in 16K miles. Makes me wonder why the hood shocks were weak- hood was barely ever opened lol!
Good video. Good deadpan in the beginning. Keep those videos coming.
Dude that was a great video , I have the same vehicle with the same problem , I upgraded the cold air intake sistem for one from k&n and still have the same problem until I saw your video , what I did is clean up the throttle body and let me tell you that hummer is like new, don't have any problem after that. I can tell you that because I drove from Md to Co Springs wich is like 25 hrs without stop and and didn't feel a thing . It works 50 hrs on the rd will prove it. Good luck good video and nice state of Colorado.
Yes Colorado is beautiful ain't it? Glad this worked. Actually cleaning the throttle body and MAF sensor on any car that hasn't had it done in 100K miles will usually have the same effect on noticeable idle improvement and accelerator response. In fact, with new customers, sometimes I will do this procedure on my own just so I can have them feel a difference after I worked on their car so they get a favorable impression of my work.
That was a fast response , it's good to know little details on fixing simple stuff on vehicles specially when you know that you are going to drive far away because you don't wanna be with your car broken in the middle of no where I'm talking about Kansas driving on I 70. Good luck n thank you.
The ironic dumb comedy helps me feel less like a useless human on fixing some simple problems. Thanks for the share and also for helping myself find out how to fix my new user vehicle.
The PCM is not very picky about some things... I had my H3 first idle kind of strange sometimes, still no codes. Finally it quit completely at traffic stop, all ok but no start or run. The reason was burned ignition fuse number 33 because the coil feed wire had worn against cylinder head and shorted finally completely. Still no codes, no clue with Tech2. Just old-fashioned fault to find and fix.
it would have been nice to see a throttle position percent before the clogged air filter was removed just for informational purposes (how much tolerance the system allows).
and thanks for showing how to open a hood and airbox. all these years I have asked people to do that for me. haha
great video as always.
There is no need. on a DBW system it should be about 6%.
This may be me beating a dead horse, but PLEASE do NOT ever do bolt by bolt! lol
Definitely loved this video!
My air filter enclosure box thingy has bolts instead of clips x.x
OMG- then you better leave it to a professional lol!!
Brutal humor at its best..Thx much!
Matt! I love yours videos, I am waiting for new ones. Grettings From Spain
Ah wow, my first from Spain I believe! Welcome Daniel and 2 new videos coming within the next couple weeks so stay tuned!
Man your videos are awesome, this one made me LOL with the airbox.. I'm having a problem with my 2012 Civic.. got 165k miles on it and have been having a rough idle that is very bad on cold starts.. feels like my entire car is pulsing. I am also having consistent hesitation. No roughness while driving, just at idle or when slowing down from 5mph to 0mph. My MAF was cleaned, new air filter, and LTFT is 0.8% but I have similar symptoms as in this video.. my throttle position percentage is at 16-17% while idle. No CEL, ever. I can see a lot of carbon buildup in my electronic throttle body. Is this safe to clean while on the car or should it be removed? I would assume I can use a soft brush and TB cleaner, then do an idle relearn. Thanks, keep it up. Wish I was in Denver so I could hire you for all of my issues. Edit: could my PCV valve potentially cause hesitation? It does need replacing as well, doing that tomorrow.
Love it. The sarcasm was great. Guys that give you idiot comments need to make their own videos.
Keep up the great work 👍
You really know how to sort through your innuendos and suggestive connotations...
My H3 was doing the same ,stumble and stall. Computer coded air mass sensor. I dismantled the air intake parts. Cleaned the sensor with CRC electronic cleaner and removed the throttle body . Cleaned the butterfly with carb cleaner and a toothbrush . Reinstalled all and had no problem. ( diss connect batt. during this procedure) I need to drive it for a while to let the Comp. to reset and check for codes again. Yes , that air filter was really bad on your H3.
A great and amusing video. Hopefully your customers don't hear about how much you despise their vehicles, lol.
Trust me they know. The car I did the cylinder head gasket testing on... it had such a horrific smell inside it I had to call the customer and ask if I could spray it with Old Spice. But after doing so, the car smelled really strange and maybe even worse... because it smelled just like old spice.
Oh lovely sarcasm, "get whats in the way out of the way". I love it !!
To answer the question about hummer not starting. I too have to wait 15 minutes and I was told by a mechanic it could possibly be connected to the security system??. I just wait and am always early when going somewhat in case it doesn't start. One of these days I'll fix it.
Dude, you're awesome! I hadn't seen good technical videos complemented with dark humor. =)
dude, this video was supper helpful. I'm looking into buying an H3, and you described the exact issue the one I test drove. I'm gonna look into it, if that's all it is I'm buying a Hummer. 8-)
no the o2s would indicate a rich condition so the ecm pulls back on fuel hense the fuel trim values ^-^, tac modules suck, the way the system works is the computer reads the maf or map data (depending on loop status and ambient conditions) and adds fuel to those values, the 02 sensors provide fuel mix data during colsed loop and the ecm reacts by coming up with a short term trim value, the ecm has a pre set trim value for open loop operation, this helps for diagnosing o2s
Hilarious start to video. Love it. Keep it up, love your vids.
MATT, I SAW SOMETHING AMAZING. ACCORDING TO THE WAY YOU THOUGHT ME I THINK A CAR CANNOT IDLE IF THE CRANK SENSOR IS UNPLUGED. BUT IT DID IDLE RECENTLY AND I WAS SUPRISED . ONLT THE REF COUNTER WAS NOT COUNTING. IS THAT REALLY POSSIBLE OR MAYBE I WAS DREAMING?
M.B.S MOSHITOA (S AFRICA)
I read a 18% TPS on my scanner after swapping with a clean air filter and cleaning maf, and NOW working my way to the cleaning throttle body.
What a smartass, we welcome you into the automotive community, you fit the bill Matt, haha. Just don't tell anyone that an Astro Van takes Astroglide for trans fluid.
Excellent video sir. I was laughing from the beginning.
thump down for not showing bolt by bolt man that is not right you are putting so much time and effort for giving nice free video and free.thanks for the video
It's sad to see someone neglect a part of routine maintenance with something as simple as an air filter.
It is called complacency and/or lack of knowledge. I have been working on cars for the better part of 40 years and I over looked the air filter in my H3. And since the H3 in the vid belonged to a woman, she probably does not even know how to open the hood, much less change the air filter and who know when she had the oil changed. Not dissing women, just stating fact. People do not take care of their cars like we used to. They get in the and drive them. They never check the oil, or air pressure in the tires. I check my oil, and make sure all of the various tank caps are in place and the general appearance of my engine compartment at every other gas fill up. I am typically the only person there with the hood up on his truck or car. and people look at me funny.
Funny af video haha I didn’t learn anything but I want a “hummer” after this
You are a funny guy, thanks for the entertaining video. I laughed out loud, a sure sign of quality entertainment!
Anyway, those bolt by bolt never leave a thing out of the entire process vids are usually required by the millenials. They weren't taught deductive reasoning, they were given trophies for just being. They feel they should not HAVE to figure it out if it has already been done. After all, they are such precious beings that have tremendous self esteem because mommy always told them how special they are. God help us if we ever suffer an emp attack in the future and they are in charge!
And just to add the dealer did say they clean the throttle body they say it was full of crud. So today i will be checking the air filter
Awesome, love your sarcasm! I think you found a new way to shoot your video! Lol
🤔 you know your coming up in the world when your customers are giving you hummers 😶😁😂🤣😂😂😆
That was a Humdinger Matt. Here's some professional diagnostic advice from a level 3 - tech 4 unlicensed doityourselfer. Sitting in the drivers seat with KOEO cold engine I always look at these pids first. - IAT- ECT-TPS-MAF and I assume you did the same but as usual you refused to go step by step - I also came close to giving you a thumb's down but I am such a forgiving person plus its not often I see a hummer on TH-cam. You are the first person I have ever seen do a hummer on TH-cam. Would I be correct in assuming the TPS was at 6% KOEO and once you started up the hummer you noticed the incorrect TPS % . As for no MIL that would depend on the threshold programed into the PCM- I imagine if the throttle was any more open the hummer would definitely expel a DTC. This women drove from Denver Colorado to see you in Louisiana to check out her hummer - Boy your good. You make fantastic vids Matt. :)
Steve, the KOEO idea is brilliant, dang I wish I had thought of that and now I really regret not doing that because I can see what an awesome diagnostic strategy that is! I bet that I would have got exactly the TPS data you predicted but now we'll never know. I should have done that on the Volvo too a couple vids back. But as ETCM's become more common I am sure I'll have opportunity to try this. Man, that advice alone is worth the production of the video- Thanks so much, I hope other see this comment!!
If I get a chance to analyze an ECTM with an odd TPS position again I will be sure to show this and credit you for the idea.
I am indeed familiar with the ECT/IAT trick at cold engine to verify the ECT is reading accurate (and IAT).
Actually, in retrospect, I remember on the Volvo when I tried to do KOEO and move the throttle pedal to see response from the ETCM, there was no activity unless I started the engine so maybe the trick above wouldn't work because there is no position adjustment with KOEO?? Still a brilliant strategy even if it can't apply though.
Actually in re-retrospect the Volvos throttle plate was open because of hydrocarbon buildup on the mating surfaces and thus I am purely taking a professional wild educated guess that the electronic throttle position sensor could not close to required position and thus the KOEO pid did not report until the ETCM was live because there was a DTC set and it was not a logical reading for a start-up - imagine if it was stuck completely open- I suspect euro smarty pants programing. I only went to university for 6 years so with such a lack of education I really cant comment on euro cars with any confidence. In hindsight it would have been nice to look at the pid KOEO after the cleaning but you may have an opportunity in the future if the car comes back to satisfy our curiosity. Or even better you can call Scannerdanner and he could give us the correct answer . Louisiana to Pittsburgh is easier for you to call because Paul would not be able to figure out a Morse code message from Canada. LOL
lol. btw where did you get the notion I am in Louisiana? I am in Denver. do I have an accent like on swamp people?
Jeeese Matt I must apologize I just took it for granted - to me you have an accent , I thought it was Cajun but I'm from Canada so its not like we hear people from Denver either except John Denver and you know he never had an accent. Up here once a week I listen to the best automotive phone in radio podcast in the USA from guess where Louisiana. This is the link if your interested.
www.agcoauto.com/content/Radio
Worse one I've had for a filter was a K-Car. (yeah, I just showed my age). I changed it out for the customer without asking--as it was totally and we're talking "Fully" loaded with dirt and oil...and more dirt. This car wouldn't idle at all and couldn't get out of it's own way. The customer flipped out on me. He didn't think that air filter did any good and it never had to be changed. I told him "Drive the car for a couple of days. If it's worse or no improvement? I'll repay you for the cost of the oil change and the air filter" The guy showed up 2 days later with a speeding ticket. He was blown away by how much power the engine actually had when it could breath. (Yes I also did the PCV valve at the same time. LOL)
+Tedybear315 Yes this filter was so heavy I thought it would crush under its own weight! I have also seen older cars with PCV problems where the filter soaked with oil.
Great video. I particularly liked the tutorial on how to remove the top of the air box.
I already knew how to open the hood.
From now on, i will be able to replace the air filter, on a Hummer H3, anyway!!! :)
Matt, awesome video. I watched a video on how to lol and now I am lol'ing!
Hummer with a happy low cost ending ! LOL.
I'd like to get your input on a truck of mine.
i think you made your point. yeah maybe bolt by bolt aint your thing. But for me IDC about it anyways diagnosis is why im here, anybody can see what needs to be removed.
Just an observation . Great site. I'll look for you in the future. Thanks
I changed my air filter and my H3 still wants to cut off during cold starts. Only in the mornings. After the engine warms up, vehicle runs fine.
+ATOM09 What was the data you got from your diagnostic analysis that indicated and air restriction was the cause? Obviously revisiting that data should help.
Schrodingers Box
I think it's the thermostat.
ATOM09 What data do you have indicating this?
Schrodingers Box The mechanic ran a diagnostic and came up with thermostat.
ATOM09 Well OK then. How easy is that!
You don't need to know whether it's manufactured at the plant to already know it's useless.
always great....can not make everyone happy.....but bolt by bolt may be overkill but sometimes helpful with hidden bolts , etc,,,,,,, thanks again...bob
She may have given you the greatest Hummer in all of Denver, but her box is disgustingly filthy.
OMG lol!!!
My Hummer H3 sometimes does not start. It cranks, battery is good but it just wont start. When left alone for about 10 or 15 minutes it will start. It will run perfectly for few days or so then the problem comes back. Has anyone else have similar problem and what is the fix. Changed all coils, plugs, etc.
+Dipak Verma See my video on no start diagnosis and you will find the problem for sure
Your sarcasm is epic....LMAO
great job matt sir i think you don't need to make any bolt to bolt video its just about common sense
Can you do this video en Español?
No habla espanol
he should make an effort to learn the language of Professor Matt, that's what I do
awesome video matt
Geez man you must have forgotten to look at the TH-cam video on how to read the engine diagnostic data.
this is the TH-cam video on how to do that.
This was another great one. Bolt by bolt! LOL :)
Oh my God this turned so damn funny hahahahahahaha.
Hey man superalo!!! Siempre tendras criticas buenas y malas!!!!
Hahaha I really laugh at this one, I like your videos, you have a really good way to explain things and also a great logic. Keep it up ! :p
emile829 Lol thanks man. Glad you "get it". Most people do not recognize the challenge in getting people to think rationally and independently!
You are so funny! Common sense is not so common these days!
Thanks. Funny and informative.
I'm all for the accurate diagnostics, car tech or medical tech.
But I'm not so tough on the disassembly aspects of many videos. Sometimes the attachment points and sequences of work are not apparent, even to a thinker. The Japanese are particularly sublime about how some things come apart. Even some electrical connectors have non-standard release clips. Same for fuel lines. I even like to see how tight the pros "muscle" a fastener as not all are torque wrench accessible.
But don't let the "useless" critics get to you. Their primary objective is to annoy you and get attention. Pretend they don't exist, they get frustrated and go away to pick on someone else.
Don't take too long off...........................
Duly noted WD. Indeed some R&R is not intuitive or is deceptively not as intuitive as it would seem (carrier bearing replacement in a differential for example). my thinking is people can find 20,000 channels and 100 million videos on doin stuff like that.
love the humour matt !!
+Chad Cohoon Hahaha not every seemed to have got it lol
i am still lol thanks for the video bro made my day
Awesome video!
Haha the way u explain things to haters are just awesome ❤️
Sir I have watched your whole playlist step by step
I m doing automobile engineering
I know ,others don't know ,what we go through bending over a car ,myself being over 6 ft tall I rarely have someone bitch