@ibrahimhemp I happen to use 2k stone before black compound. But I think 1k can be okay. 3k or 4k is good before white compound for a V edge but they are uselessly fine before black compound IMO. Thanks.
@stefanwolf88 I used it on deer in new condition. It was very sharp and didn't take any chipping. Anyway its factory edge angle was pretty shallow as you say. Thanks.
keep up the great videos! I have seen a "stone flattener" that takes the curve out of worn sharpening stone...diamond material, I tried a dual action palm sander with 40grit that also worked fairly well
I can't thank you enough for your videos! Your knowledge and insight is great, and the way you convey it is quite unique and wise. You make me wish I could send you a knife to work on so I could see your work up close. :)
@lagook I use Bark River black and white compound too. I am just testing the Enkay green compound single use. It seems faster than the black and white compound dual use and the result is the same. So for a while I will use only the Enkay green compound for edge maintenance. Thanks.
@vjanda1 I always put a micro convex bevel which height is 3mm or so onto a Scandi grind knife in order to add strength against hard materials on its edge. But if I made a convex bevel from the same starting line, it would certainly make the edge angle much larger and duller. Thanks.
@virtuovice thank you:) im a fan of convex edge and bevel i am trying to switch from v-grind to convex on all my knives. im am looking for the right compounds and leather thank you for your video you convex edge came out beautiful
@TheRunereaper I happen to use Chosera #400, #800, #2000 of 3 stones. But the key stone is #400. If you intend to make a convex edge and make a small angled initial edge and make it convex with stropping, you will need 2 stones of #400 and #1000. Chosera is far beyond others. The edge sharpened with the #1000 stone will be fine enough before hard stropping. I have no experience on the round stones. By the way I am satisfied with my Japanese 18cm handy axe for camping and survival chores. Thanks.
@TheRunereaper I have a belt sander and ever used it for convexing a flat bevel knife. Then I used a pretty coarse belt and the edge went burning red and broken off although I paid much attention not to let it do. I will try it again but done by hand is always successful. Thanks.
Cool Rat 1 :) I've got one but with the regular black handles, didn't need to stone sharpen it yet, because it has a very sharp factory edge. Just stropped it with white compound :) Keep up the good videos!
Thank you for doing this video!. After I watched this, I put a convex edge on my Benchmade Griptillion ( my favorite knife in my current collection ), and it cuts lake a hot knife to butter!. I have never felt a knife cut so effortlessly!. My convex job doesnt look as good as yours though. I cannot wait to try skinning a deer or hog with it!
@ibrahimhemp I begin with the black compound and finish with the white compound. I don't use the green compound at all because it does nothing for me. Thanks.
@TheSchnozwanger It dulls the edge just enough to make it strong enough not to roll and chip, as Scandi edges are wont to do when cutting hard materials. I have read or seen in videos Scandi knife makers say that using a convex micro-bevel on their knives is a longstanding tradition. I do not know if this is true, but it seems to make sense, considering how practical it is to use such geometry.
@Colombiano671 I used the Enkay Blue compound just once on the leather strop. Then it didn't make the edge any sharper at all while the blue compound made a razor edge very easily. I guess the blue compound should be applied onto some electric device for mirror finish. Thanks.
@K2Carbides Very interesting video indeed, needs to be watched more than once! Looking at his chart I conclude that the "thin" convex he's talking about is impossible to achieve on a scandi grind knife while maintaining the original height where the scandi grind starts. Applied to an Enzo Trapper it would reshape the blade so much that it would look take the look of a true convex knife such as a Bark River. Virtuovice does a "micro" convex. I wonder how far from the edge it starts..
I don't use the smooth side and have no idea about it. I might have applied some oil to the leather some years ago. But now I don't do it at all. I have never experienced the Choji Oil. I entirely use Camellia knife care oil which is the most popular in Japan. Thanks.
@Colombiano671 The Enkay blue compound is completely useless for knife sharpening. But for other purposes like mirror polishing I have no experience. Thanks.
Very nicely done and a great mirror finish to the final edge. What is your preference for quick resharpening of these and do the polished edges seem to hold up much better during use? It is amazing that you achieved such a nice finished edge so quickly and so precisely.
All of my fighting knives have a slightly convexed saber grind which makes 30 to 35 degree angle and leaves a strong spine. I think Saber means military sword and this grind makes tough and sharp blades. Thanks.
@vjanda1 Yes it would technically dull the edge, but only infinitesimally so. What you gain in edge strength and ease of sharpening far outweighs any dulling you might get in making Scandi edge convex.
@rixcat A friend of mine gifted it to me. And the result can be a bit better than Bark River white compound. Anyway further evaluation will be needed. Thanks.
I'm sending your my knives for Convex Sharpening as you a master at edge working. Plus you use stone and not belt that can over heat temper to do your work for Convex Sharpen Edges.
I really enjoy your videos, jdavis mentioned you so I thought I would check it out. Love the Chosera (my spelling is probably wrong) stones, I just have the 800 and 1200 right now.
Dr Wako, yet another excellent video. I want to buy some sharpening stones and Chosera seem to be the best. The fine grit stones are very pricey and I don't want to make a mistake. Have you tried the round Chosera stones and if so what is your opinion on them compared to the rectangular ones? It would be very enlightening to hear your opinions on the bigger survival knives although I know you are primarily interested in deer-hunters. Do you have any plans to review such knives? Thanks again.
The compounds should be used from coarse to fine. I don't know about your compounds. Compound particles differ in size and hardness according to the brands. Bark River Black is coarse and medium hardness while Bark River White is fine and hard. Bark RIver Green will be medium size and soft. Thanks.
Thanks, this will help me when my #1000/#6000 waterstone arrive from Japan later in this month. I got just the one hollow grind knife, but with the tiny V bevel it is to difficult to maintain like that, and a convex edge will be much easier to maintain on that knife. The rest of my knives are all scandi grind, so no problem there. Easy to keep sharp :-) The stone I have now is a 200/400 grit stone so this should help taking the edges of my knives to a new level, even if it just a King stone. Thank you for all your advice. I wish I ad the means to follow it all :-)
+FreedomPrepper I, myself, own and use many different sharpening systems. I would honestly and proudly say that our Arkansas system work as good as JPese waterstones while requiring much less maintenance. A set of Soft, Hard and Translucent/Surgical Black + leather strop would sharpen any cutting edge to laser level
Great video. I like the low angle edge. I use it on most of my knives, spceially the smller folders and fixed blades. Where did your get the stroping blocks?
@TheBladebuster okay thanks:) can i just use the Enkay green compound alone withough having to increase the grit size? or will there be consiquences to taking that shortcut?
I know you are a big fan of the convex edge. Do you think Mora scandi grind knives would benefit from convex edge? Is it possible to convex such knives at all? Thank you !
@wigglos I'm trying to picture it in my mind but I can't :( A scandi grind is a straight V. Wouldn't trying to convex it just make it dull like TheSchnozwanger remarked? Maybe he's applying a super duper micro fine convex I don't know...
how do you clean your strops when the leather is saturated with compound and metal particals? do you just scrape it off, or do you use another method? thank you
Hi! Thank you for your sharpening-videos! What do you do with the leatherstrop, when the leather is getting dirty after a while? Mine is getting black after some stropping (with green compound) and i am not sure what to do. Do i have to clean the leather? And how do i do that?
Thanks for fast response and the advice. I just got a leather strop with 4 sides. 3 of the sides are rough and 1 side is smooth. What is the smooth side for? Also, I heard you have to oil the leather, is this true? If so, what oil do you use? Also, would you recommend "Choji Oil" for a stainless steel blade (AUS-8 Stainless steel)?
i would love to reprofile one of my knives but i can not afford a mistake so i learn much from you in water stone convex sharpening but i do have a hard time doing scadivex. but i will keep watching and i am sure i will find something of you teaching scandi without passing shinogi line and i will keep a thin convex i cant do a scandi zero grind or i am doing something wrong
Okay thank you. Also, I have one more question LOL. The strop came with 3 compounds... white, green and red. What order do I need to use them in? I think the red is the smoothest but I'm not sure.
@jackknife68 at first I thought you talking about a angle grinder, I thought there was no way you could get a knife razor sharp with that, I was right you had a belt grinder attachment...lol,,, good video though.
Thank you. I am amazed yet again! Some people say they use only the smooth side of the leather for stroping. I believe you are using the soft side of the leather for all compounds?
So at what point are you convexing the edge? On the stones or when stropping? If on the stones, can you explain a little more how you angle the knife or move it to make the convex edge?
TacticalTimmy12 On the stone my hands take a rolling motion the axis of which is my shoulder joints to make a slightly convex bevel to the secondary edge being honed. Then the stropping afterwards enhances it.
I don't think convexing the V-edge on 110 hunter is a good thing - the angle from the factory is 22 degree - it's shalow enough for the soft 420HC steel - perhaps you must try 110 with new edge on a deer to chek for chipings or edge problems in getting back straps. Anyhow - great reprofiling job - when I convexed edges i use sandpapers, not a stones. Stay Safe!
+Gearjunkie79 nikon.com/products/sportoptics/lineup/fmicroscope/fieldmicroscope/index.htm Its mini version seems available on Amazon US. It doesn't have illumination but its optical performance is almost the same as mine.
This man is an absolute treasure and must be protected at all costs
I wish this guy had a sharpening service. I would send some. The detail to the edge is amazing.
I often wondered how you did this. I will attempt this now that it is clear to me. Very good instruction!
@ibrahimhemp I happen to use 2k stone before black compound. But I think 1k can be okay. 3k or 4k is good before white compound for a V edge but they are uselessly fine before black compound IMO. Thanks.
@stefanwolf88 I used it on deer in new condition. It was very sharp and didn't take any chipping. Anyway its factory edge angle was pretty shallow as you say. Thanks.
@damarei I like a hollow ground knife more than a flat ground knife because it takes a convex edge more easily. Thanks.
keep up the great videos! I have seen a "stone flattener" that takes the curve out of worn sharpening stone...diamond material, I tried a dual action palm sander with 40grit that also worked fairly well
Amazing,you are the best knife sharpener in the world.
I can't thank you enough for your videos! Your knowledge and insight is great, and the way you convey it is quite unique and wise. You make me wish I could send you a knife to work on so I could see your work up close. :)
@lagook I use Bark River black and white compound too. I am just testing the Enkay green compound single use. It seems faster than the black and white compound dual use and the result is the same. So for a while I will use only the Enkay green compound for edge maintenance. Thanks.
@vjanda1 I always put a micro convex bevel which height is 3mm or so onto a Scandi grind knife in order to add strength against hard materials on its edge. But if I made a convex bevel from the same starting line, it would certainly make the edge angle much larger and duller. Thanks.
Wow, Extremely beautiful edge. Thank you for this demonstration.
@virtuovice thank you:) im a fan of convex edge and bevel i am trying to switch from v-grind to convex on all my knives. im am looking for the right compounds and leather thank you for your video you convex edge came out beautiful
@TheRunereaper I happen to use Chosera #400, #800, #2000 of 3 stones. But the key stone is #400. If you intend to make a convex edge and make a small angled initial edge and make it convex with stropping, you will need 2 stones of #400 and #1000. Chosera is far beyond others. The edge sharpened with the #1000 stone will be fine enough before hard stropping. I have no experience on the round stones. By the way I am satisfied with my Japanese 18cm handy axe for camping and survival chores. Thanks.
nice looking knife, and you sir did a hell of job on that edge ...looks real good i'm now going to try that myself,,
@TheRunereaper I have a belt sander and ever used it for convexing a flat bevel knife. Then I used a pretty coarse belt and the edge went burning red and broken off although I paid much attention not to let it do. I will try it again but done by hand is always successful. Thanks.
Cool Rat 1 :) I've got one but with the regular black handles, didn't need to stone sharpen it yet, because it has a very sharp factory edge. Just stropped it with white compound :) Keep up the good videos!
great job
Thank you for doing this video!. After I watched this, I put a convex edge on my Benchmade Griptillion ( my favorite knife in my current collection ), and it cuts lake a hot knife to butter!. I have never felt a knife cut so effortlessly!. My convex job doesnt look as good as yours though. I cannot wait to try skinning a deer or hog with it!
@ibrahimhemp I begin with the black compound and finish with the white compound. I don't use the green compound at all because it does nothing for me. Thanks.
@TheSchnozwanger It dulls the edge just enough to make it strong enough not to roll and chip, as Scandi edges are wont to do when cutting hard materials. I have read or seen in videos Scandi knife makers say that using a convex micro-bevel on their knives is a longstanding tradition. I do not know if this is true, but it seems to make sense, considering how practical it is to use such geometry.
@Colombiano671 I used the Enkay Blue compound just once on the leather strop. Then it didn't make the edge any sharper at all while the blue compound made a razor edge very easily. I guess the blue compound should be applied onto some electric device for mirror finish. Thanks.
@K2Carbides
Very interesting video indeed, needs to be watched more than once!
Looking at his chart I conclude that the "thin" convex he's talking about is impossible to achieve on a scandi grind knife while maintaining the original height where the scandi grind starts. Applied to an Enzo Trapper it would reshape the blade so much that it would look take the look of a true convex knife such as a Bark River. Virtuovice does a "micro" convex. I wonder how far from the edge it starts..
I love your voice. Anyways, great job on that. I always have high respect for people who can freehand like that.
I used fine grit wet/dry sandpaper then strop to change from v edge to a convex edge.
I don't use the smooth side and have no idea about it. I might have applied some oil to the leather some years ago. But now I don't do it at all. I have never experienced the Choji Oil. I entirely use Camellia knife care oil which is the most popular in Japan. Thanks.
@Colombiano671 The Enkay blue compound is completely useless for knife sharpening. But for other purposes like mirror polishing I have no experience. Thanks.
That is a beautiful edge,especially done by hand.
@creamneuron No. It makes it even better.
Very nicely done and a great mirror finish to the final edge. What is your preference for quick resharpening of these and do the polished edges seem to hold up much better during use? It is amazing that you achieved such a nice finished edge so quickly and so precisely.
Once the secondary bevel loses its shoulder and takes shallow convex geometry, it takes stropping well. Thanks.
@ibrahimhemp The green compound was made by ENKAY in the US. I was trying it and the result was pretty good. Thanks.
Thank you Wako, this is very useful.
@vjanda1 all his nordic knives (karesuando, enzo, ...) have a convexed edge bevel, you can look up those videos on his channel
Great instructional video. Thanks Wako.
All of my fighting knives have a slightly convexed saber grind which makes 30 to 35 degree angle and leaves a strong spine. I think Saber means military sword and this grind makes tough and sharp blades. Thanks.
Na it's just the blade style and grind that's all
@vjanda1 Yes it would technically dull the edge, but only infinitesimally so. What you gain in edge strength and ease of sharpening far outweighs any dulling you might get in making Scandi edge convex.
@creamneuron I have some types of metal brushes for removing paint. They work pretty well for removing useless compounds. Thanks.
you are an artist sir, excellent video!
@rixcat A friend of mine gifted it to me. And the result can be a bit better than Bark River white compound. Anyway further evaluation will be needed. Thanks.
Very good. Thanks for showing us. Take care.
It is a real heavy knife. And its handle is cold in winter. I will use it again next autumn. Thanks.
@wigglos I use metal brush for removing paint. Thanks.
I'm sending your my knives for Convex Sharpening as you a master at edge working. Plus you use stone and not belt that can over heat temper to do your work for Convex Sharpen Edges.
I really enjoy your videos, jdavis mentioned you so I thought I would check it out. Love the Chosera (my spelling is probably wrong) stones, I just have the 800 and 1200 right now.
Is it possible to sharpen convex edge with Edge Pro or edge pro is only for V Grind edges?
Nice channel and great videos!!!
great work easy to follow
Wow, an absolute expert master, top respect to you sir.
Fantastic video!
I was just about to message you asking if a hollow ground knife could take a convex edge.
Thanks!
@kofata5 as far as i know Edge Pro is only for v grinds ...
@vjanda1 You can't really convex a scandi grind that would just round the edge and make it dull.
Dr Wako, yet another excellent video. I want to buy some sharpening stones and Chosera seem to be the best. The fine grit stones are very pricey and I don't want to make a mistake. Have you tried the round Chosera stones and if so what is your opinion on them compared to the rectangular ones?
It would be very enlightening to hear your opinions on the bigger survival knives although I know you are primarily interested in deer-hunters. Do you have any plans to review such knives? Thanks again.
The compounds should be used from coarse to fine. I don't know about your compounds. Compound particles differ in size and hardness according to the brands. Bark River Black is coarse and medium hardness while Bark River White is fine and hard. Bark RIver Green will be medium size and soft. Thanks.
Thanks, this will help me when my #1000/#6000 waterstone arrive from Japan later in this month. I got just the one hollow grind knife, but with the tiny V bevel it is to difficult to maintain like that, and a convex edge will be much easier to maintain on that knife. The rest of my knives are all scandi grind, so no problem there. Easy to keep sharp :-)
The stone I have now is a 200/400 grit stone so this should help taking the edges of my knives to a new level, even if it just a King stone.
Thank you for all your advice. I wish I ad the means to follow it all :-)
@Virtuovice - Hello, when might you review your Bravo 1 in 3V steel?
@virtuovice oh ok thank you and in other words i should definatly invest in blue compound instead of green compound am I correct?:)
@Iseekoutthetruth I got it. But I have never made knife handles and the blade was short for me. Sorry not to respond it.
That came out nice! I also don't like the factory grind lines.
Nice knives. Japanese wet stones are some nice tools. I use Arkansas wets stones here in the state. I would like to get some Japanese ones.
+FreedomPrepper I, myself, own and use many different sharpening systems. I would honestly and proudly say that our Arkansas system work as good as JPese waterstones while requiring much less maintenance.
A set of Soft, Hard and Translucent/Surgical Black + leather strop would sharpen any cutting edge to laser level
Great video. I like the low angle edge. I use it on most of my knives, spceially the smller folders and fixed blades.
Where did your get the stroping blocks?
@TheBladebuster okay thanks:) can i just use the Enkay green compound alone withough having to increase the grit size? or will there be consiquences to taking that shortcut?
@rifle22coach Yes. I can do the same thing with sandpapers. But I hate dust from them.
I f__king love this guy!
I know you are a big fan of the convex edge.
Do you think Mora scandi grind knives would benefit from convex edge?
Is it possible to convex such knives at all?
Thank you !
@wigglos
I'm trying to picture it in my mind but I can't :(
A scandi grind is a straight V.
Wouldn't trying to convex it just make it dull like TheSchnozwanger remarked?
Maybe he's applying a super duper micro fine convex I don't know...
how do you clean your strops when the leather is saturated with compound and metal particals? do you just scrape it off, or do you use another method?
thank you
@virtuovice Thanks for the answer.
I use the plain side of the leater. The metal brush will not scratch or destroy the leather?
Very well done! Thank you very much!!!!
@medogradela No. They still have a factory edge. When the time comes, I will make a convex edge on them. Thanks.
Great work, thanks!
amazon has the stones from 30-79 dollars depending on what grit you get.
Hi!
Thank you for your sharpening-videos!
What do you do with the leatherstrop, when the leather is getting dirty after a while? Mine is getting black after some stropping (with green compound) and i am not sure what to do.
Do i have to clean the leather? And how do i do that?
O-lo-lo.
Very nice work on the stones.
"It's my edge" LOL I love it ! :)
Frank
Very nice work on the stones. I think it would require a lot more finesse getting a nice edge on a stone over my budget sandpaper sharpening setup.
Thanks for fast response and the advice. I just got a leather strop with 4 sides. 3 of the sides are rough and 1 side is smooth. What is the smooth side for? Also, I heard you have to oil the leather, is this true? If so, what oil do you use?
Also, would you recommend "Choji Oil" for a stainless steel blade (AUS-8 Stainless steel)?
@virtouvice do you think the Enkay Blue compound is necessary for a mirror finish or is the Enkay Green compound good enough for a mirror finish
@TheBladebuster Thanks man because, i'm not sure what color compound to buy an what brand to get really sharp knives.
I thought green compound makes your knife duller?
i would love to reprofile one of my knives but i can not afford a mistake so i learn much from you in water stone convex sharpening but i do have a hard time doing scadivex. but i will keep watching and i am sure i will find something of you teaching scandi without passing shinogi line and i will keep a thin convex i cant do a scandi zero grind or i am doing something wrong
superb video!
why did u use green compound instead of white for finish strop
excellent video .
Okay thank you. Also, I have one more question LOL. The strop came with 3 compounds... white, green and red. What order do I need to use them in? I think the red is the smoothest but I'm not sure.
i have black white and green compound.. which one should i begin with and fnish with?
thankyou
from which grit stone you considered using before go to black compound ?
thabkyou
wko you no longer use white compound?
Wish you could teach me in person. What kind of strop and WHETSTONES should I get
Currently I use Shapton Ha-no-kuromaku (Pro) 1000 to reprofile a secondary bevel. I love DLT Double Sided Paddle Strop.
@jackknife68 at first I thought you talking about a angle grinder, I thought there was no way you could get a knife razor sharp with that, I was right you had a belt grinder attachment...lol,,, good video though.
@TheSchnozwanger
He seems to do that on his Enzo Trapper which is a classical scandi grind...
I can't imagine how that works :(
He turns it into a convexed scandi grind sometimes called a scandi vex
Thank you. I am amazed yet again! Some people say they use only the smooth side of the leather for stroping. I believe you are using the soft side of the leather for all compounds?
Yes. I think the nap of the rough side leather takes compounds between. Thanks.
So at what point are you convexing the edge? On the stones or when stropping? If on the stones, can you explain a little more how you angle the knife or move it to make the convex edge?
TacticalTimmy12 On the stone my hands take a rolling motion the axis of which is my shoulder joints to make a slightly convex bevel to the secondary edge being honed. Then the stropping afterwards enhances it.
@MrBenrokEarth Very soon. I just finished the other knives I own.
i bet you would love the tops,b.o.b best hand holding for game very sweet knife and with your sharping skills you could get it scary sharp
Hi, I was wondering if you got that email I sent you of that Helle knife with out a handle on Ebay?
I have 2 channels and mistook it.
What edge is best for slashing and stabbing?
@mikedifeo From Crystal Falls Trading > Bark River > Sharpeners. Thanks.
good job
I don't think convexing the V-edge on 110 hunter is a good thing - the angle from the factory is 22 degree - it's shalow enough for the soft 420HC steel - perhaps you must try 110 with new edge on a deer to chek for chipings or edge problems in getting back straps. Anyhow - great reprofiling job - when I convexed edges i use sandpapers, not a stones.
Stay Safe!
where did you get the microscope I looked on amazon I didn't see one like that I want one so I can see what I am doing?nikon?
+Gearjunkie79 nikon.com/products/sportoptics/lineup/fmicroscope/fieldmicroscope/index.htm
Its mini version seems available on Amazon US. It doesn't have illumination but its optical performance is almost the same as mine.