Bravo on spotting the “chisel” similarities. That’s the origin of scandi(and Finn) grind. They are woodworking grinds used in Northern Europe where wood is typically softer. I’m Italian and the more you go towards South Europe, the harder and denser the wood gets. It’s softer around the coast because of humidity and salt content in the air. For example in the Balkans (inside southern Europe) you have convex grinds from history. Meanwhile around Sardinia (Italian isle) you have more concave grinds from history.
By the way the n10 in flat grind from Casstrom is one of my favorite knives. I don’t like scandi from Casstrom because they are truly thick behind the edge. I’d recommend you checking Finn grinds (from Finland) with makers like Juha Pertulla and such. With less than 100€ you get a full custom handmade knife at 63hrc, in 80crv2 (similar to O1). Cheers
Thanks for the info about the Finn knives. I'll have to look into that. I've used the Casstrom a little to featherstick and split kindling. It seems to bite into wood much more aggressively than my convex or sabre grinds. It seemed like the feathers it made tended to fall off the stick or get cracked up into chips. I intend to try it on other sticks to make sure it wasn't just the wood I was using.
Congratulations on the new knife! I've been looking at those for a while. I think you'll like the scandi grind, especially for wood. It's amazing on wood, which is mostly what i use belt knoves for. I always carry a flat ground folder in the woods for other stuff anyway. The thinner scandis (like the older Moras, for example) do better at "food prep" in my opinion. If a fella wanted to EDC a scandi, I feel the thinner grind would be better. Great video! 👍
As I've said, I'm new to scandi grinds, so will just have to see if I like them. So far, it seems a bit thick for what I do. I don't really care about splitting wood, even though I do it on my channel just to show that my knives will baton. I may be making a premature judgement, but I'd say the flat grind Casstrom would suit me better.
@@MountainLife1 True. Edge geometry is king, when it comes to a knife (in my opinion). I do like my scandi grinds BUT they can't be too thick (most people say 1/8" is the max thickness for most blades). I also like the higher grinds. My first knife was a red handled Mora, so I was used to the scandi from the beginning. I think that also makes a difference. Plus, if you're not going to be doing a lot of carving/wood work, then a scandi loses ground in the comparison. I hope you don't regret buying the knife. It's a real beauty. Happy New Year to you and yours.
@@kanukkarhu Happy New Year to you too. I don't think I'll regret buying the knife, it just might be more of a specialty wood working knife. I have some knives that I use only for hunting.
Another thing I'd like to mention. All new knives, in my opinion (many other agree too) a new knife should be properly sharpened before 1st use. Also, if you want to see what you got, you have to at least, give it 3 full sharpening sessions, before you can tell, how good or bad, your steel was made. Many people, don't know and also don't wanty to learn, about what I'm talking about, even though I'm just talking about facts. Especially on Scandi grinds, a factory edge is a "no no", you must put a proper edge profile, that for many reaaons, will also toughen the edge a lot, so it won't roll or chip on you. It will also cut way better, and will do things, that it can't do without a proper edge. Nice knife you got there, even though I always suggest low alloy for scandi grinds, it still is a great design! Enjoy!
You can can cut thinner slices by angling the knife instead of cutting strait in. They aint good for food prep but man they are amazing with wood. I like to give all my scandi knives a slight convex , I love a good ScandiVex grind. Those casstrom knives are excellent, its on my short list of must buy knives.
I have been wanting an lt wright. I was a huge bark river fan and i own many older bark river knives that are excellent. My most recent purchase from bark river has made me start looking at lt wright. The pre order knife i just received from bark river is ooor quality compared to the ilder bark river knives.
@@Mr_Obvious I saw people on TH-cam complaining about bark river quality not being good and to be honest I didn't believe them. Then I ordered a knife and when it arrived I was shocked how poorly it was made. I was a fan boy for sure. I hunt big game and use my bark rivers to field dress and butcher and they are a work horse. The new knives have no attention to detail at all.
@@mrglock2313 I bought a Puukko from them and the grind was WAY off on it. I returned it and got another one, but that convinced me all the complainers were right.
Yes, I understand about Bark River Knives. I overlooked flaws for a long time, because I like their designs. It just became hard to get one that was well made. I've moved on to other brands.
If it wasn't 4mm thick but 3mm, it would be perfect!! That maters the most, even more than stel itself, which is the last thing, people should consider about, when choosing a knife, because it's everything else that matters more. Blade thickness,size,grinds,handle, sheath,heat treatment and how the knife was made,all these are what people should care about. Unfortunately, TH-cam,marketing and all the brainwashing it comes out of all these, made people care first, for what they should care last.
I do believe they make the sleipner a tad bit thicker and the 14c28n a tad less thicker. This is because of edge stability. Sleipner would chip at 60hrc and thin blade. 14c28n is extremely stable both laterally and on edge.
Thanks for letting me know! That's the reason why,traditional scandi knives, are usually made with low alloy carbon steels.The scandi edge has the least edge stability,compared to any other, thus why it's the sharpest.So, theoritically, it could be a better option, to go for the 14c27n for this knife, for the higher edge stability. I wish they stil produced itr on O2, but those stupid marketing videos on TH-cam, have turned the knives manifacture, to a totally wrong path. Thanks again!@@clintwestwood3539
Bravo on spotting the “chisel” similarities.
That’s the origin of scandi(and Finn) grind.
They are woodworking grinds used in Northern Europe where wood is typically softer. I’m Italian and the more you go towards South Europe, the harder and denser the wood gets. It’s softer around the coast because of humidity and salt content in the air.
For example in the Balkans (inside southern Europe) you have convex grinds from history. Meanwhile around Sardinia (Italian isle) you have more concave grinds from history.
By the way the n10 in flat grind from Casstrom is one of my favorite knives. I don’t like scandi from Casstrom because they are truly thick behind the edge.
I’d recommend you checking Finn grinds (from Finland) with makers like Juha Pertulla and such. With less than 100€ you get a full custom handmade knife at 63hrc, in 80crv2 (similar to O1).
Cheers
Thanks for the info about the Finn knives. I'll have to look into that. I've used the Casstrom a little to featherstick and split kindling. It seems to bite into wood much more aggressively than my convex or sabre grinds. It seemed like the feathers it made tended to fall off the stick or get cracked up into chips. I intend to try it on other sticks to make sure it wasn't just the wood I was using.
Congratulations on the new knife! I've been looking at those for a while.
I think you'll like the scandi grind, especially for wood. It's amazing on wood, which is mostly what i use belt knoves for. I always carry a flat ground folder in the woods for other stuff anyway.
The thinner scandis (like the older Moras, for example) do better at "food prep" in my opinion. If a fella wanted to EDC a scandi, I feel the thinner grind would be better.
Great video! 👍
As I've said, I'm new to scandi grinds, so will just have to see if I like them. So far, it seems a bit thick for what I do. I don't really care about splitting wood, even though I do it on my channel just to show that my knives will baton. I may be making a premature judgement, but I'd say the flat grind Casstrom would suit me better.
@@MountainLife1 True. Edge geometry is king, when it comes to a knife (in my opinion). I do like my scandi grinds BUT they can't be too thick (most people say 1/8" is the max thickness for most blades). I also like the higher grinds.
My first knife was a red handled Mora, so I was used to the scandi from the beginning. I think that also makes a difference. Plus, if you're not going to be doing a lot of carving/wood work, then a scandi loses ground in the comparison.
I hope you don't regret buying the knife. It's a real beauty.
Happy New Year to you and yours.
@@kanukkarhu Happy New Year to you too. I don't think I'll regret buying the knife, it just might be more of a specialty wood working knife. I have some knives that I use only for hunting.
Another thing I'd like to mention. All new knives, in my opinion (many other agree too) a new knife should be properly sharpened before 1st use. Also, if you want to see what you got, you have to at least, give it 3 full sharpening sessions, before you can tell, how good or bad, your steel was made. Many people, don't know and also don't wanty to learn, about what I'm talking about, even though I'm just talking about facts. Especially on Scandi grinds, a factory edge is a "no no", you must put a proper edge profile, that for many reaaons, will also toughen the edge a lot, so it won't roll or chip on you. It will also cut way better, and will do things, that it can't do without a proper edge. Nice knife you got there, even though I always suggest low alloy for scandi grinds, it still is a great design! Enjoy!
You can can cut thinner slices by angling the knife instead of cutting strait in. They aint good for food prep but man they are amazing with wood.
I like to give all my scandi knives a slight convex , I love a good ScandiVex grind.
Those casstrom knives are excellent, its on my short list of must buy knives.
I have been wanting an lt wright. I was a huge bark river fan and i own many older bark river knives that are excellent. My most recent purchase from bark river has made me start looking at lt wright. The pre order knife i just received from bark river is ooor quality compared to the ilder bark river knives.
I have a couple dozen Bark Rivers. They used to be excellent, but lately they seem to have started to slide on their quality.
@@Mr_Obvious I saw people on TH-cam complaining about bark river quality not being good and to be honest I didn't believe them. Then I ordered a knife and when it arrived I was shocked how poorly it was made. I was a fan boy for sure. I hunt big game and use my bark rivers to field dress and butcher and they are a work horse. The new knives have no attention to detail at all.
@@mrglock2313 I bought a Puukko from them and the grind was WAY off on it. I returned it and got another one, but that convinced me all the complainers were right.
Yes, I understand about Bark River Knives. I overlooked flaws for a long time, because I like their designs. It just became hard to get one that was well made. I've moved on to other brands.
Nice knives my friend. Hope you like the scandi. Are you familiar with bark river or TFK knives?
I'm not sure about the scandi, but it may grow on me. I am not familiar with TFK, but I have 15 Bark River Knives.
If it wasn't 4mm thick but 3mm, it would be perfect!! That maters the most, even more than stel itself, which is the last thing, people should consider about, when choosing a knife, because it's everything else that matters more. Blade thickness,size,grinds,handle, sheath,heat treatment and how the knife was made,all these are what people should care about. Unfortunately, TH-cam,marketing and all the brainwashing it comes out of all these, made people care first, for what they should care last.
It’s 3,5, mine at least.
3,4 to be exact.
The flat grind tho
I do believe they make the sleipner a tad bit thicker and the 14c28n a tad less thicker. This is because of edge stability.
Sleipner would chip at 60hrc and thin blade. 14c28n is extremely stable both laterally and on edge.
Thanks for letting me know! That's the reason why,traditional scandi knives, are usually made with low alloy carbon steels.The scandi edge has the least edge stability,compared to any other, thus why it's the sharpest.So, theoritically, it could be a better option, to go for the 14c27n for this knife, for the higher edge stability. I wish they stil produced itr on O2, but those stupid marketing videos on TH-cam, have turned the knives manifacture, to a totally wrong path. Thanks again!@@clintwestwood3539