First of all I would like to thank you for putting together this video I truly enjoy it. And I hope you and your team choose to do more like them. I've been wanting to see your engine build process for a long time and finally I get to see this ,all I say is WOW. Keep up the good work the good work you guy's.🙏🙏🙏🙏
As a motor for all my 41 year's and a honda man since my first car, this was just beautiful to watch....... i could only wish to own this motor. I love the stock jdm k24a i got in my 07 si, but its not this. ❤
much appreciated content, New subscriber here after this. Awesome attention to detail and quality parts and definitely top notch craftsmanship! P.s. was that a fel-pro blu valve cover gasket??? Just nit-picking, I always "cringe" when I see the "blu" gaskets on higher end stuff when it comes through the shop. Thanks for sharing and keep up the great content 👍👍
Do you know who is contracted to make most of the gaskets for many of the OEMs? Felpro. That's a great gasket....also lets not get horny over a piece of rubber.
You are the only people on U tube that no what's going on .I machinist engine builder 5 time NHRA national record holder atop Fuel crew chief build just like that. Don't no how some of these idiots get on U Tube. You sure no what your doing Thanks
Love the perfection you put into your work !! On this specific engine. how high are the CR ? and the 400 in k400 is it how much the engine can flow in CFM or is it power. consider this engine to put in a lotus elise or exige track weapon ??
14:1. It is named for horsepower with E85 and ITB. I do all our dyno testing here on Motec and I'm not too shabby. I found that the cars everyone puts these into usually get gas, a filter or plenum manifold instead of ITBs, a full exhaust, and some other accessories. They also go into a lot of RWD cars and those drivetrains eat much more power than a FWD Honda trans. If I had to it to do over again, I'd name it a K380 since it seems a majority of guys compromise on the components we use to make 400. The engine is a bit famous at this point...winning races and setting records all over the world....so the name stays.
Probably will stick to Hondas...but I will be turning laps this weekend in my M3 CS. If anything BMW ever came along it would be S58 only because that is what I have at our fingertips.
@@4pistonracing the B48 platform is the next upcoming 4banger to reliably make over 1000whp. Current whp record is a mild 650whp @ approximately 7000rpm with basic forged internals. Even at that power lvl there is close to 100whp still available to be made left on the table as the engine can rev to 8000rpm. There are guys making just over 500whp with stock internals and I won't be surprised that the B48 can make 700whp unopened with only bolt on external parts. Things are happening with the BMW 4 cylinders just like what is seen with the B58 platform. They all are holding up on the streets and at the track. Definitely something yall can change the game on leading into the future.
I built an F25 a couple months ago and it just dyno'd 303whp and 217wtq a couple weeks ago. Extremely satisfying to see how much of my build process matched yours. Besides the deburring it was almost identical (now I have to practice that on one of my old, windowed blocks). One question though. When I set my ring gaps, I did so with a torque plate in place. I did measure them both with and without the plate and found enough of a difference that I kept it on when I set the gaps. Do the K blocks not distort as much after having the head torqued? Or any other reason you guys chose not to use a plate for the gaps? Just genuinely curious and trying to learn to make the next one even better. Thank you guys for putting this out, was a fun watch!
All depends on what torque plate you use. Believe it or not the commonly available billet aluminum torque plates do not provide the correct distortion to represent the head being torqued. We've been over it a lot over the last 22 years with this engine, and we came up with a different method. We get better ring seal and more power. It is a highly guarded secret...and not in the video on purpose. I tried to elude to some things missing in the process...but it is what it is. Great question by the way.
@4pistonracing mind absolutely blown! I hadn't considered the possibility of different distortion from the torque plate. Next time I'll be bolting on both and checking from underneath to compare. I appreciate you guys sharing even a little of the sauce that makes it so good. I'm in the relatively early stages of my engine building and I've been relentlessly seeking out stuff like this from trustworthy sources. Both for the Hondas I love to build and the Porsches I work on to afford my Honda 😂
Driven. Many of our engines go to project cars in other parts of the world, and they may sit in their crates for some time. That stuff will be there even if I guy fires it up 18 months after shipment. Also, since many of these are wet sump you aren't priming the engine prior to startup like we do on a dry sump, so it is really critical for that first start where we won't see oil pressure until 4-5 seconds into the engine running.
We run .040" minimum piston to head on a steel or Ti rod...in this one .045". Intake piston to valve we will run min at .040 with this spring and exhaust .080". That is with a really good spring that you know is in control.
@@boblast5582 The baffling works just fine with proper catch can, and in this case specifically there is an external vac pump. We make a vented valve cover with 5 AN bungs and full baffle as well. What we use depends on the application.
@@4pistonracing How high would you spin a destroked endurance racing k24 with 89 or 93mm stroke? Based on your experience, can you get to 10k or 10.5k reliably (for sound and bragging rights) or is that a foolish pursuit of diminishing returns?
Sometimes longer than that for a custom build. We keep some engines in stock but these custom engines are a lot of effort. We have a high demand and keep a healthy backlog. Anyone who doesn’t have a backlog…gotta ask yourself why.
@@4pistonracing ok, I thought they would need to be replaced after being torqued because their seems to be a notion that you cant reuse torque to yield bolts after being torque and angled once , so do they hold consistency when checking the main housings and checking main bearing oil clearance. would they have the same consistency as arp main hardware would.
@@4pistonracing The main housing bore measurements stay consistent even down to the tenth when using old used main bolts? what would need to be done to check main bearing oil clearance and complications would happen to were I have put those bolts thru several cycles of torquing and angling to get the desired clearances via juggling different bearings, that bed plate would to come on and off several times, to check such a thing, would it be absurd to have several new sets of main bolts for each pass that the bed plate gets mounted on the block, thanks
@@mikej9450 If you are really hung up on this and want to learn...put the effort into giving it a shot. Put the original bolts in, check your housings. Put new ones in and torque them once, and check your housings. Cycle them a few times, and check your housings. While you are in the learning mood throw an ARP in there and check your housings. This thing has a $4500 crank, and $4000 set of rods, a $5000 cylinder head....we have the budget for a couple bolts in the girdle. We aren't guessing and we know the service life of these fasteners and how Honda uses them in production as well. Comes down to 3 decades of experience here and thousands of engines.
I was only 3 minutes into the video and I could already see why it’s worth paying your shop to have a honda motor assembled
No one can replicate this. The level of detail is overwhelming 🔥🔥
Very nice! Crazy short skirts for a k24 endurance engine.
We like our pistons like we like our women
I'm a mitsubishi guy myself but i highly enjoyed the engine assembly. Craftsmanship on point.
Love engine builds like this. Would be awesome to detailed videos like this for all the major engine platforms you build.
I want one
A lot of work goes into your engine package!!! They turn out beautiful!
Wow what workmen ship , great to see someone building with pride
Definitely not flat rate..great work 4piston 👍🏼
I appreciate you guys showing us how your company goes about building your engines and I have to admit, I'm impressed!!! Keep up the great work!
First of all I would like to thank you for putting together this video I truly enjoy it. And I hope you and your team choose to do more like them. I've been wanting to see your engine build process for a long time and finally I get to see this ,all I say is WOW. Keep up the good work the good work you guy's.🙏🙏🙏🙏
true passion and craftsmanship !!!! big respect 🫡 !!!
Can’t wait to get my engine built here in a few years
that rotating assembly is sickk
So sick! Can you please give us an update about this engine on the dyno?
Awesome work done , can see that you guys really do put in work and look after your brand name may your business be blessed 🙏
As a motor for all my 41 year's and a honda man since my first car, this was just beautiful to watch....... i could only wish to own this motor. I love the stock jdm k24a i got in my 07 si, but its not this. ❤
that titanium conrod🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
damn mr perfect. Nice job. very detail orientied person.
First time viewing your channel instant subscriber
Work of art
Time to get a project going!! 98 civic coupe and with this engine? Why not
Advantage using those plugs at 16:34 vs oem?
Bro u look great
much appreciated content, New subscriber here after this. Awesome attention to detail and quality parts and definitely top notch craftsmanship! P.s. was that a fel-pro blu valve cover gasket??? Just nit-picking, I always "cringe" when I see the "blu" gaskets on higher end stuff when it comes through the shop. Thanks for sharing and keep up the great content 👍👍
Do you know who is contracted to make most of the gaskets for many of the OEMs? Felpro. That's a great gasket....also lets not get horny over a piece of rubber.
Same setup but with lower compression like 11 or 12 for pump gas probably will lass forever 😍
We build them like that, 12:1
keep the content coming :)
K-artwork!
Artistry
You are the only people on U tube that no what's going on .I machinist engine builder 5 time NHRA national record holder atop Fuel crew chief build just like that. Don't no how some of these idiots get on U Tube. You sure no what your doing Thanks
☠️
Love the perfection you put into your work !!
On this specific engine. how high are the CR ? and the 400 in k400 is it how much the engine can flow in CFM or is it power. consider this engine to put in a lotus elise or exige track weapon ??
14:1. It is named for horsepower with E85 and ITB. I do all our dyno testing here on Motec and I'm not too shabby. I found that the cars everyone puts these into usually get gas, a filter or plenum manifold instead of ITBs, a full exhaust, and some other accessories. They also go into a lot of RWD cars and those drivetrains eat much more power than a FWD Honda trans. If I had to it to do over again, I'd name it a K380 since it seems a majority of guys compromise on the components we use to make 400. The engine is a bit famous at this point...winning races and setting records all over the world....so the name stays.
Also....really popular in a Lotus. Expect 370hp
Now this is what I'm talking about😊 now we need a step by step explanation build video. Please😢
Would love to see what yall can do with the BMW B48 engine
Probably will stick to Hondas...but I will be turning laps this weekend in my M3 CS. If anything BMW ever came along it would be S58 only because that is what I have at our fingertips.
@@4pistonracing the B48 platform is the next upcoming 4banger to reliably make over 1000whp. Current whp record is a mild 650whp @ approximately 7000rpm with basic forged internals. Even at that power lvl there is close to 100whp still available to be made left on the table as the engine can rev to 8000rpm. There are guys making just over 500whp with stock internals and I won't be surprised that the B48 can make 700whp unopened with only bolt on external parts. Things are happening with the BMW 4 cylinders just like what is seen with the B58 platform. They all are holding up on the streets and at the track. Definitely something yall can change the game on leading into the future.
I built an F25 a couple months ago and it just dyno'd 303whp and 217wtq a couple weeks ago. Extremely satisfying to see how much of my build process matched yours. Besides the deburring it was almost identical (now I have to practice that on one of my old, windowed blocks).
One question though. When I set my ring gaps, I did so with a torque plate in place. I did measure them both with and without the plate and found enough of a difference that I kept it on when I set the gaps. Do the K blocks not distort as much after having the head torqued? Or any other reason you guys chose not to use a plate for the gaps?
Just genuinely curious and trying to learn to make the next one even better. Thank you guys for putting this out, was a fun watch!
All depends on what torque plate you use. Believe it or not the commonly available billet aluminum torque plates do not provide the correct distortion to represent the head being torqued. We've been over it a lot over the last 22 years with this engine, and we came up with a different method. We get better ring seal and more power. It is a highly guarded secret...and not in the video on purpose. I tried to elude to some things missing in the process...but it is what it is. Great question by the way.
@4pistonracing mind absolutely blown! I hadn't considered the possibility of different distortion from the torque plate. Next time I'll be bolting on both and checking from underneath to compare.
I appreciate you guys sharing even a little of the sauce that makes it so good. I'm in the relatively early stages of my engine building and I've been relentlessly seeking out stuff like this from trustworthy sources. Both for the Hondas I love to build and the Porsches I work on to afford my Honda 😂
great job, what kind of assemble lube is that? the brown one.
i was wondering the same almost looks like a grease
Driven. Many of our engines go to project cars in other parts of the world, and they may sit in their crates for some time. That stuff will be there even if I guy fires it up 18 months after shipment. Also, since many of these are wet sump you aren't priming the engine prior to startup like we do on a dry sump, so it is really critical for that first start where we won't see oil pressure until 4-5 seconds into the engine running.
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Nice build . How much clearance did you become in TDC between valve and Piston ? In valve closed
We run .040" minimum piston to head on a steel or Ti rod...in this one .045". Intake piston to valve we will run min at .040 with this spring and exhaust .080". That is with a really good spring that you know is in control.
@@4pistonracing and total clearance 0.25 from valve closed to piston on TDC ?
isn't that valve cover only for drag applications since it doesn't have any baffling for oil vapors and stuff that get vented from the valve cover?
It does have baffling over the vents and can be run with a wet sump.
@@4pistonracing I mean it’s just a tiny box around the vent… nowhere near as intricate as Honda’s design
@@boblast5582 The baffling works just fine with proper catch can, and in this case specifically there is an external vac pump. We make a vented valve cover with 5 AN bungs and full baffle as well. What we use depends on the application.
What is the target redline?
We will run this one to 9600 for longevity if he needs it. In those really long races he will likely turn 8800 until he needs the rpm.
@@4pistonracing How high would you spin a destroked endurance racing k24 with 89 or 93mm stroke? Based on your experience, can you get to 10k or 10.5k reliably (for sound and bragging rights) or is that a foolish pursuit of diminishing returns?
❤❤
tune it for Ethanol 75% allso plz.
are these guys from PH 🇵🇭?
USA
This would be a monster on the street but too bad u can only use race fuel.
Pump e85 will work great. Check the K360 on website. It’s a pump gas version and a little more budget friendly.
guys dnt know that first payment then they start build it..2 weeks to a month of waiting period...
Sometimes longer than that for a custom build. We keep some engines in stock but these custom engines are a lot of effort. We have a high demand and keep a healthy backlog. Anyone who doesn’t have a backlog…gotta ask yourself why.
3:19 lube on the washer surface?
Absolutely
@@4pistonracing why
@@km6832so no metal to metal contact. That’ll throw off the torque specs big time
@@itsjussjerry i heard lubing it up throws off the torque specs. Because the washer has no bite
you guys just reuse the factory torque yield bolts like that??
Definitely on a K-Series. You won’t see these move around like you would on older engines…unless you replace them with other hardware.
@@4pistonracing ok, I thought they would need to be replaced after being torqued because their seems to be a notion that you cant reuse torque to yield bolts after being torque and angled once , so do they hold consistency when checking the main housings and checking main bearing oil clearance. would they have the same consistency as arp main hardware would.
@@mikej9450in many cases yes…but not on these main bolts with this bed plate
@@4pistonracing The main housing bore measurements stay consistent even down to the tenth when using old used main bolts? what would need to be done to check main bearing oil clearance and complications would happen to were I have put those bolts thru several cycles of torquing and angling to get the desired clearances via juggling different bearings, that bed plate would to come on and off several times, to check such a thing, would it be absurd to have several new sets of main bolts for each pass that the bed plate gets mounted on the block, thanks
@@mikej9450 If you are really hung up on this and want to learn...put the effort into giving it a shot. Put the original bolts in, check your housings. Put new ones in and torque them once, and check your housings. Cycle them a few times, and check your housings. While you are in the learning mood throw an ARP in there and check your housings. This thing has a $4500 crank, and $4000 set of rods, a $5000 cylinder head....we have the budget for a couple bolts in the girdle. We aren't guessing and we know the service life of these fasteners and how Honda uses them in production as well. Comes down to 3 decades of experience here and thousands of engines.
Work of art