I'm a "seasoned" woodworker but always enjoy seeing these beginner tips because there's always something to add to one's knowledge. And, in this case, I'd like to add one for you: If you have the time, it's always better to mill a board to "almost" what you need, then let it sit for several days or up to a week, and then do the final milling. This lets you catch any final movement that otherwise might spoil your project. Great work as always.
I find it easy to think I have more experience than I really have. I decided to take the beginners wood shop class at my local maker space. As the instructor pointed out things to look out for I was internally saying “oh, that’s why that happened” and thinking about all of the mistakes I made. Learning is a lifelong process and videos like these are key!
I'm that kind of "eternal beginner" that heard or found out many of these tips, but not all of them. Plus, the perfect way you explain it makes this video (and the part 1) very useful. Thanks, cheers.
Memory shirt. Coached 20 years from non skaters to high school. Three sons competed through high school and one played JR in US and got invited to play in Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan. Wore out two Chevy Suburbans, used almost every vacation day for 20 years during the winter, and made very large donations to Bauer, CCM, Holiday Inn, Exxon, McDonald's and many others. Thanks for the trip down memory lane. Good content, as usual! Thanks. JimE
Thanks for putting this together. After 60 years of woodworking, reviews like this keeps complacency at bay. And it never fails to teach me something new.
All great tips! Even though I'm an experienced woodworker I picked up a couple great tips from your video. It was also a good refresher for safety tips. Thanks for doing this video Marie!
Just stumbled on this video but I was glued to it. Although you said basics but I just needed it to remind me of how careless or forgetful I can be and the dangers of woodworking. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to seeing more of you. Bobby from South Africa.
I was a QC tech for 20 years at a major LVL manufacturing facility and one of our reference manuals was the USDA Handbook on Wood. That manual specifies how much pressure is recommended when gluing up wood. It's just like you said...not much. The manual specifies 50 PSI for soft woods and 150 PSI for hard woods (dense woods.) I performed a ASTM Block Shear test on some oak samples that were glued up using 3/4" bar clamps, reasonably over tightened , compared to spring clamps. The samples from the pipe clamps failed miserably compared to the others. It really gets me when I watch videos where the guy keeps cranking down on the clamps. Can't say anything cause they know better than me. LOL
Great tips even as reminders for all of us. I always use the skinned over scraping method for squeeze out. You didn't mention that a sharp edge won't take a finish either. Bill
First off, awesome shirt! 😃🏒🥅 Thanks for another great video. Your stuff is always so practical and helpful. When you said “Loosen in the direction of rotation” I was like, “Wait… wut?” I had to overthink it every time. 🤪 Now I know! Keep up the great work and content. We appreciate you!
im a 22 year old woman who wishes to go into woodworking as an occupation and its always so refreshing and uplifting to see women working in jobs that are usually male-dominated. so i just wanted to thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge.
Instead of wiping off glue squeeze-out with a rag or paper towel, first use a 1" putty knife like a snow shovel to pick the glue up off the wood. Keep the blade clean as you work. Follow with a damp rag. This results in a much cleaner surface.
Haha “so satisfying” is what I was thinking as you scraped the rubbery glue squeeze out, then, you then you echoed my thoughts. I have been apprenticing my husband in his shop for years, and am ready to take the lead and be more hands-on with my projects. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
fun fact a lot of people don't think of, regarding sharp edges... stains/finishes will "pull away" on a sharp corner more so than a rounded corner.. and sharp corners chip and splinter a lot more easily than a rounded corner
Thanks Marie. As always your videos are very helpful. Another way to deal with the glue squeeze out on panel glue up is to put painters tape on the seams during the dry run. Run a razor along the seam before separating the parts. Then when you re-clamp with the glue, the squeeze out in on top of the tape! Thanks again.
Tablesaw kickback can still occur if your waste piece touches the blade, so even if you do use a push block ALSO keep to one side as much as possible. There's plenty of room on the right side of the blade to stand as well, even if you're right handed and it feels a little awkward. Love the tips and the vid. 👍👍👍
That kick back demonstration was really scary..please do be careful...Thanks for all the great refresh...always useful as i am aging oh so quickly...have a great week-end
Not sure if I missed it in this or the prior video but a tip I tell people for using routers and getting the direction right is to use your right hand palm facing down, and stick your thumb out and touch the side to be routed. Point your index finger and the tells you the direction to push the router!
Sometimes you don't have or can't find an awl to start your drilling. Another trick is to place the bit where you want the hole, then run the drill backwards a few turns. It will gouge out a small dimple and when you put the drill in forward mode it won't "walk" out of the hole. This works best with smaller bits as the larger the bit the more you have to run it backwards and broaden the dimple. This won't work as well for hard surfaces such as melamine but does do well in wood.
Hello, it seems to me that you talked about very interesting topics and that, in my opinion, we should not forget and from time to time remember, as a person who tries to learn, I personally thank you for this video and I will try to follow all these good tips, thank you very much 🙂
Another nice tips video Marie. I’d offer that pipe clamps for panels are a good cheaper option especially when you are starting to add clamps to your shop, which you used in your next section on squeeze-out. Cheers!
What I use for de-gluing is the Veritas Cabinet Maker's plane. It's hardly a cheap tool to use for removing dried glue alone, but it's got so many other uses-cleaning up tenons, leveling epoxy, trimming off dowels, &c., &c.-that it's definitely worth the price. I bought it on impulse and I've been using way more than my block plane and chisels.
Another quick way to find the center of a board is to take a piece of paper , line up 1 edge of the paper with the edge of the board, Then crease the paper on the opposite edge, and simply fold the paper in half between the edge of the paper and the crease you made. then place the paper back on the board and the fold is 1/2 the width of your board. Walla. EZ center.
20:31 Something a little more advance but could be worth considering. Depending on how your boards were milled, how many joints are in the glue-up plus other factor may create a cumulative slightly-out-of-square error (face to edge) which can cause the whole panel to cup. If so, this can be minimized by alternating the topside and bottomside of each board. This means you have to keep track of how they were milled. Or you can lay them up dry, take a good look at the joints and move the boards around as needed. BTW great video!
Three cheers to you again. You can count me as your forever fan.😊 When I started woodworking as another hobby (the other is street busking!) a few years back, Rob Cosman was, and still is, my go-to guy. Now you are another one. (Perhaps I'm partial to Canadians! Never been there, no Canadian friend either.) BTW, I am a young (close to 80) engineer and used to teach engineering undergraduates. So, I should know a good educator when I see one.😊
You are lovely. You have a wonderful energy, your videos have such great content and I'm learning lots. Plus, you are lovely - did I say that bit? Namaste x
While I am a bit past the basics, I did enjoy your narration and I don't think I was familiar with scraping the excess wood glue off in between states with a plastic blade. I might give that one a try the next time I have a project that needs staining.
I got hit by kickback a few years ago when using my table saw. Wood hit me right on the left lower orbital bone! Didnt knock me out or break anything but i sure saw stars. Now i always stand to the side!
I always stand to the side but she has a massive tablesaw that can make that challenging at best. When I first started a friend noticed me standing back and suggested you actually want to be close but to the side so are balanced and in control. Not about to fall on the tablesaw. The times I have gotten in trouble are with small stock ( she has a great jig for this) and when not using riving knife as you can bind on basic cut with large /awkward lumber. Have thrown 3/4 “ plywood 3’ x 2’ 20 feet with a bind situation but I could feel it bind and it wasn’t going to resolve with more pressure. Couldn’t turn it off with my hands full because I was on the side stepped out of way and let it go… sigh. Luckily was outside so no issue. If inside that’s a really tough spot so use the riving knife.
Very useful video, Marie! I didn't know a chunk of those tips (especially finding the face center of a board via the rafter square)! The reenactment skit starting at the 5:02 mark though! LMAO. Have you considered taking a crack at acting in Hollywood? In all seriousness though.. really great tips! Thanks for sharing :)
You gotta work with the system you're born into. Easier than working against it. Canada is metric, but since all our build materials are adapted to the US, we adapt too.
It's easy to divide 3 7/16 by 2 - it's 3/2+7/32, which is 1 23/32. That, of course, isn't a function of imperial, but rather the convention of expressing it as a fraction. (And I basically only use metric)
Personally, I find metric so much more sensible. Being from California and living in in New Zealand I am familiar with both systems. I still use imperial as some tools and supplies I use are from the USA.
Ty. You gave me couple good ideas plus you strangely made me look up something that I broke on my brand new dewalt dws779. Which I found out this brand new, store bought miter saw has a recall that was issued in 2022 that explains one of the broken parts if not two. If you have this saw, look up what’s the dates and where to find the date stamp. Please.
The checking tip helps. In the start I was cutting pine, no cracks, but during the cut the piece would break in two. I was like what is wrong with? Is my blade wrong? Is my wood wrong? Am I cutting wrong? I later understood, hand saw cause far less vibration while cutting, so you can get away with the wood not breaking during the cut. A circular saw blade is a different story. I will try breaking it with the hand. Really sucks to see 3-15 inches disappear because of this.
Great video, as always. However, at the end of the video it looks like you crossed your arms to operate the mitre saw which is not a very safe practice . If I'm wrong , my apologies .
One caveat to the "there's no chance your saw blade will come loose" tip... This might not be true if you have the DeWalt 7491 table saw 😅 It's not uncommon for mine to loosen itself and the blade will continue spinning for at least a minute after I turn it off. There's been a few times where what eventually brings it to a stop is it wobbles itself towards the insert plate and brushes against it. I've gotten good at hearing the warning signs in advance that this is coming soon but it's always scary. I know a number of other people with this saw that have had the same experience. I'm surprised there wasn't a recall.
Great video! Do you have a Center Finding Ruler in your shop? These rulers are cheap and also serve as regular rulers in the shop. I went 45 years without one and now I regret it. Mine sits on my workbench and has become my go-to layout tool. I highly recommend it! One big reason for breaking edges is that it reduces the tendency for finishes to build up at the edge.
You are not supposed to pull back the sled with the material still in the way of the blade. Same discipline applies here as with regular trim cuts; push through and past the entire blade, move the piece out of the way and *then* you can pull the sled back. Use that pencil or a push stick. Your current off-on discipline for the saw is not exactly safe, either, and these constant shut-off cycles actually put a huge strain on the motor because it takes a whole lot more energy each time to get the blade up to speed again. Also, this method would only really be safe if you were able to push the stop button with your hip. Taking your eyes away from the blade/piece and moving your body downwards to press the button is just asking for trouble. I strongly recommend you stop doing this, it's not safe. Edit: Regarding the squeeze-out: If you are really worried about that and you won't be doing any major scraping/sanding after, then just use painter's tape. Tape off the edges so that the glue will squeeze onto it and then just peel off and clean up with a sanding block. That's a guaranteed way to prevent glue from getting into pores; especially useful for something like oak that has large pores.
I don't get finding the center of a board using speed square's diagonal. It's not the center of the board. move the speed sqare 1mm to the left or right, do the same thing and the X will be in a different place.
the same thing with a ruler. put it in any other place of the board and you'll get a different point. The only method I know is to draw the diagonals of the board (they have to be eaqual length, that means, that the board is square) and the point where they cross is the centre of the board.
I actually swap my table saw blade all the time, but it is frustrating to get the damn nut started straight back on the arbor with the blade and washer in place, and having big hands in a fixed slot size. The other annoying part is the shitty wrenches that come with table saws for changing blades; I know they need to be narrow and maybe being angled helps somehow, but a longer wrench that would keep your hand out of the blade teeth for the nut would be nice, even if the wrench for the arbor is still the stamped crap since it usually just locks against castings anyway. Has anyone come up with any game changing tricks for quick and easy blade swaps?
i find cranking the blade down gives me more space to fit my hand, but i'm used to working on big-ass delta and powermatic cabinet saws in commercial shops. we also throw away the wrenches that come with the saws and use 12" long crescent wrenches.
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Watch the original video here: th-cam.com/video/m3CqH4DjVlI/w-d-xo.html - 15 Woodworking basics you should know
I'm a "seasoned" woodworker but always enjoy seeing these beginner tips because there's always something to add to one's knowledge. And, in this case, I'd like to add one for you: If you have the time, it's always better to mill a board to "almost" what you need, then let it sit for several days or up to a week, and then do the final milling. This lets you catch any final movement that otherwise might spoil your project. Great work as always.
Absolutely! Great tip
I find it easy to think I have more experience than I really have. I decided to take the beginners wood shop class at my local maker space. As the instructor pointed out things to look out for I was internally saying “oh, that’s why that happened” and thinking about all of the mistakes I made. Learning is a lifelong process and videos like these are key!
I'm that kind of "eternal beginner" that heard or found out many of these tips, but not all of them. Plus, the perfect way you explain it makes this video (and the part 1) very useful. Thanks, cheers.
Memory shirt. Coached 20 years from non skaters to high school. Three sons competed through high school and one played JR in US and got invited to play in Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan.
Wore out two Chevy Suburbans, used almost every vacation day for 20 years during the winter, and made very large donations to Bauer, CCM, Holiday Inn, Exxon, McDonald's and many others.
Thanks for the trip down memory lane.
Good content, as usual! Thanks. JimE
Thanks for sharing your ideas. These reminders are a great way to stay safe in the shop and help one produce better projects.
Lots of great tips. I must say, using the raftor square for finding the center was classic.
Thanks for putting this together. After 60 years of woodworking, reviews like this keeps complacency at bay. And it never fails to teach me something new.
All great tips! Even though I'm an experienced woodworker I picked up a couple great tips from your video. It was also a good refresher for safety tips. Thanks for doing this video Marie!
Great work. Please continue with this series. There are so many more questions that need proper explanation.
Just stumbled on this video but I was glued to it. Although you said basics but I just needed it to remind me of how careless or forgetful I can be and the dangers of woodworking. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to seeing more of you. Bobby from South Africa.
Thanks for all the tips, Marie! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I was a QC tech for 20 years at a major LVL manufacturing facility and one of our reference manuals was the USDA Handbook on Wood. That manual specifies how much pressure is recommended when gluing up wood. It's just like you said...not much. The manual specifies 50 PSI for soft woods and 150 PSI for hard woods (dense woods.) I performed a ASTM Block Shear test on some oak samples that were glued up using 3/4" bar clamps, reasonably over tightened , compared to spring clamps. The samples from the pipe clamps failed miserably compared to the others. It really gets me when I watch videos where the guy keeps cranking down on the clamps. Can't say anything cause they know better than me. LOL
so true. the number of folks i see using too much glue and then clamping so tight they starve the joint anyhow is wild.
Thanks, so helpful for beginners 👍🏻
Great tips even as reminders for all of us. I always use the skinned over scraping method for squeeze out. You didn't mention that a sharp edge won't take a finish either.
Bill
First off, awesome shirt! 😃🏒🥅 Thanks for another great video. Your stuff is always so practical and helpful. When you said “Loosen in the direction of rotation” I was like, “Wait… wut?” I had to overthink it every time. 🤪 Now I know! Keep up the great work and content. We appreciate you!
im a 22 year old woman who wishes to go into woodworking as an occupation and its always so refreshing and uplifting to see women working in jobs that are usually male-dominated. so i just wanted to thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge.
Instead of wiping off glue squeeze-out with a rag or paper towel, first use a 1" putty knife like a snow shovel to pick the glue up off the wood. Keep the blade clean as you work. Follow with a damp rag. This results in a much cleaner surface.
Haha “so satisfying” is what I was thinking as you scraped the rubbery glue squeeze out, then, you then you echoed my thoughts. I have been apprenticing my husband in his shop for years, and am ready to take the lead and be more hands-on with my projects. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
fun fact a lot of people don't think of, regarding sharp edges... stains/finishes will "pull away" on a sharp corner more so than a rounded corner.. and sharp corners chip and splinter a lot more easily than a rounded corner
Thanks Marie. As always your videos are very helpful. Another way to deal with the glue squeeze out on panel glue up is to put painters tape on the seams during the dry run. Run a razor along the seam before separating the parts. Then when you re-clamp with the glue, the squeeze out in on top of the tape! Thanks again.
Great tip!
Thanks for the great advice! I appreciate it. Just wanted to say, those cabinets I see in the background look terrific too! Good work.
Tablesaw kickback can still occur if your waste piece touches the blade, so even if you do use a push block ALSO keep to one side as much as possible. There's plenty of room on the right side of the blade to stand as well, even if you're right handed and it feels a little awkward. Love the tips and the vid. 👍👍👍
Lady, you are awesome! Thank you for the lessons!!! Cheers from Brazil
Full time home based woodworker here. Also a huge hockey fan. Love the T-Shirt :)
Can't wait for the season to start.
@@SYBEX21 NHL or PWHL? Or both?
@@JoeHockey-Flyers Both.
A very informative and well organized video for beginners!
I have enjoyed your videos over the years. Keep up the good work.
Thank you very much!
Great tips, that we sometimes forget.
That kick back demonstration was really scary..please do be careful...Thanks for all the great refresh...always useful as i am aging oh so quickly...have a great week-end
Not sure if I missed it in this or the prior video but a tip I tell people for using routers and getting the direction right is to use your right hand palm facing down, and stick your thumb out and touch the side to be routed. Point your index finger and the tells you the direction to push the router!
2:59 metric system babyyy
Thanks again for another great video!
Great video and tips, no matter your experience level. Thanks.
Sometimes you don't have or can't find an awl to start your drilling. Another trick is to place the bit where you want the hole, then run the drill backwards a few turns. It will gouge out a small dimple and when you put the drill in forward mode it won't "walk" out of the hole. This works best with smaller bits as the larger the bit the more you have to run it backwards and broaden the dimple. This won't work as well for hard surfaces such as melamine but does do well in wood.
Hello, it seems to me that you talked about very interesting topics and that, in my opinion, we should not forget and from time to time remember, as a person who tries to learn, I personally thank you for this video and I will try to follow all these good tips, thank you very much 🙂
Another nice tips video Marie. I’d offer that pipe clamps for panels are a good cheaper option especially when you are starting to add clamps to your shop, which you used in your next section on squeeze-out. Cheers!
Great point!
What I use for de-gluing is the Veritas Cabinet Maker's plane. It's hardly a cheap tool to use for removing dried glue alone, but it's got so many other uses-cleaning up tenons, leveling epoxy, trimming off dowels, &c., &c.-that it's definitely worth the price. I bought it on impulse and I've been using way more than my block plane and chisels.
I love the kickback re-enactment.
Thanks for the great tips. 🙏
Thank you! Keep making these great videos. Always very insightful for a beginner like me.
Thank you very much for sharing may God bless you 🙏 😊 ☺️
Wonderful video! Thank you. 👍
Excellent video. Thanks.
I'm with you, machine tools whenever possible. I have zero confidence in setting up a hand plane.
Merci Marie. Vous nous donnez plien de vrais bons conseils facile à suivre en particulier pour découper les petits vlimeux de morceaux.😊😊
Excellent, I learned a lot.
Well explained and to the point👍
Nice job!!!
Good info. Glad to see you.
In terms of tightening the nut on a blade you can also over tighten it and warp the blade which causes all kinds of chaos. Ask me why I know LOL.
Excellent tips. Thanks!
Great video
Great tips! Love your PWHL tshirt too!
Langevin Forest! I love that company. I got my Narex chisels from them.
I like your videos with project ideas
More to come soon!
Another quick way to find the center of a board is to take a piece of paper , line up 1 edge of the paper with the edge of the board,
Then crease the paper on the opposite edge, and simply fold the paper in half between the edge of the paper and the crease you made.
then place the paper back on the board and the fold is 1/2 the width of your board. Walla. EZ center.
20:31 Something a little more advance but could be worth considering. Depending on how your boards were milled, how many joints are in the glue-up plus other factor may create a cumulative slightly-out-of-square error (face to edge) which can cause the whole panel to cup. If so, this can be minimized by alternating the topside and bottomside of each board. This means you have to keep track of how they were milled. Or you can lay them up dry, take a good look at the joints and move the boards around as needed.
BTW great video!
Thanks, great tips
Très intéressant et bien expliqué. Merci pour ce partage pleins de conseils
Three cheers to you again. You can count me as your forever fan.😊
When I started woodworking as another hobby (the other is street busking!) a few years back, Rob Cosman was, and still is, my go-to guy. Now you are another one.
(Perhaps I'm partial to Canadians! Never been there, no Canadian friend either.)
BTW, I am a young (close to 80) engineer and used to teach engineering undergraduates. So, I should know a good educator when I see one.😊
You are lovely. You have a wonderful energy, your videos have such great content and I'm learning lots. Plus, you are lovely - did I say that bit? Namaste x
👍great video
Thanks!
Thank you! 😊
While I am a bit past the basics, I did enjoy your narration and I don't think I was familiar with scraping the excess wood glue off in between states with a plastic blade. I might give that one a try the next time I have a project that needs staining.
@DIYMontreal thanks for the tips.
In case glue squeeze-out is an MAJOR concern then an other option is to tape the wood first so the surface is not exposed to glue in the first place.
I got hit by kickback a few years ago when using my table saw. Wood hit me right on the left lower orbital bone! Didnt knock me out or break anything but i sure saw stars. Now i always stand to the side!
I always stand to the side but she has a massive tablesaw that can make that challenging at best. When I first started a friend noticed me standing back and suggested you actually want to be close but to the side so are balanced and in control. Not about to fall on the tablesaw. The times I have gotten in trouble are with small stock ( she has a great jig for this) and when not using riving knife as you can bind on basic cut with large /awkward lumber. Have thrown 3/4 “ plywood 3’ x 2’ 20 feet with a bind situation but I could feel it bind and it wasn’t going to resolve with more pressure. Couldn’t turn it off with my hands full because I was on the side stepped out of way and let it go… sigh. Luckily was outside so no issue. If inside that’s a really tough spot so use the riving knife.
And the Academy Award for Best hit in the face by a flying board off a table saw goes to....😄
Great video, thanks for the tips!
Very useful video, Marie! I didn't know a chunk of those tips (especially finding the face center of a board via the rafter square)! The reenactment skit starting at the 5:02 mark though! LMAO. Have you considered taking a crack at acting in Hollywood? In all seriousness though.. really great tips! Thanks for sharing :)
by using metric instead of imperial, things would get simpler as well
You gotta work with the system you're born into. Easier than working against it. Canada is metric, but since all our build materials are adapted to the US, we adapt too.
@@DIYMontreal agree, i am just saying could be so much easier :)
It's easy to divide 3 7/16 by 2 - it's 3/2+7/32, which is 1 23/32. That, of course, isn't a function of imperial, but rather the convention of expressing it as a fraction. (And I basically only use metric)
Personally, I find metric so much more sensible. Being from California and living in in New Zealand I am familiar with both systems. I still use imperial as some tools and supplies I use are from the USA.
PWHL Montréal shirt - squeeeeeeee!
Ty. You gave me couple good ideas plus you strangely made me look up something that I broke on my brand new dewalt dws779. Which I found out this brand new, store bought miter saw has a recall that was issued in 2022 that explains one of the broken parts if not two. If you have this saw, look up what’s the dates and where to find the date stamp. Please.
In the UK we call it a Bradawl instead of an Awl
The checking tip helps. In the start I was cutting pine, no cracks, but during the cut the piece would break in two. I was like what is wrong with? Is my blade wrong? Is my wood wrong? Am I cutting wrong? I later understood, hand saw cause far less vibration while cutting, so you can get away with the wood not breaking during the cut. A circular saw blade is a different story. I will try breaking it with the hand. Really sucks to see 3-15 inches disappear because of this.
me siento como un alumno....enamorado de mi maestra.
Great video, as always. However, at the end of the video it looks like you crossed your arms to operate the mitre saw which is not a very safe practice . If I'm wrong , my apologies .
One caveat to the "there's no chance your saw blade will come loose" tip... This might not be true if you have the DeWalt 7491 table saw 😅 It's not uncommon for mine to loosen itself and the blade will continue spinning for at least a minute after I turn it off. There's been a few times where what eventually brings it to a stop is it wobbles itself towards the insert plate and brushes against it. I've gotten good at hearing the warning signs in advance that this is coming soon but it's always scary. I know a number of other people with this saw that have had the same experience. I'm surprised there wasn't a recall.
Yikes! May be time to trade that in for something safer!
If my board is '3 and 7/16th' I simply use milimeters. I always do. Theis 'fraction love' is ununderstandable to me. why to complicate simple things?
Great video! Do you have a Center Finding Ruler in your shop? These rulers are cheap and also serve as regular rulers in the shop. I went 45 years without one and now I regret it. Mine sits on my workbench and has become my go-to layout tool. I highly recommend it!
One big reason for breaking edges is that it reduces the tendency for finishes to build up at the edge.
Another tool to look into ;)
Hi, fellow Montrealer, where do you shop for hardwood?
Different places... Langevin Forest, Scierie JTM, Rona St-Patrick
Always useful information thanks
Just Subscribed ;-) 🐧
Where do you buy your lumber in Montreal?
Lots of different places! Langevin Forest, Scierie JTM and Rona (St-Patrick) to name a few. See my full list here: www.diymontreal.com/about/faqs/
Not from the Orange Nice Good West store @12:17.
❤
I have a tip. There are no woodworking shops that are too big.
Por fin
PWHL shirt ftw 🏒💪💪
You are not supposed to pull back the sled with the material still in the way of the blade. Same discipline applies here as with regular trim cuts; push through and past the entire blade, move the piece out of the way and *then* you can pull the sled back. Use that pencil or a push stick. Your current off-on discipline for the saw is not exactly safe, either, and these constant shut-off cycles actually put a huge strain on the motor because it takes a whole lot more energy each time to get the blade up to speed again. Also, this method would only really be safe if you were able to push the stop button with your hip. Taking your eyes away from the blade/piece and moving your body downwards to press the button is just asking for trouble. I strongly recommend you stop doing this, it's not safe.
Edit: Regarding the squeeze-out: If you are really worried about that and you won't be doing any major scraping/sanding after, then just use painter's tape. Tape off the edges so that the glue will squeeze onto it and then just peel off and clean up with a sanding block. That's a guaranteed way to prevent glue from getting into pores; especially useful for something like oak that has large pores.
I don't get finding the center of a board using speed square's diagonal. It's not the center of the board. move the speed sqare 1mm to the left or right, do the same thing and the X will be in a different place.
the same thing with a ruler. put it in any other place of the board and you'll get a different point. The only method I know is to draw the diagonals of the board (they have to be eaqual length, that means, that the board is square) and the point where they cross is the centre of the board.
I actually swap my table saw blade all the time, but it is frustrating to get the damn nut started straight back on the arbor with the blade and washer in place, and having big hands in a fixed slot size. The other annoying part is the shitty wrenches that come with table saws for changing blades; I know they need to be narrow and maybe being angled helps somehow, but a longer wrench that would keep your hand out of the blade teeth for the nut would be nice, even if the wrench for the arbor is still the stamped crap since it usually just locks against castings anyway.
Has anyone come up with any game changing tricks for quick and easy blade swaps?
Obviously the manufactureres have shares in the bandaid companies. And not just table saws, twin wrench routers are another.
@@brucelee3388 you literally said nothing intelligent there
i find cranking the blade down gives me more space to fit my hand, but i'm used to working on big-ass delta and powermatic cabinet saws in commercial shops. we also throw away the wrenches that come with the saws and use 12" long crescent wrenches.
I don’t need an over-tightened blade to curse during woodworking!
3:04 the trick is to measure in mm
Do your Canadian friends make fun of you when you say things like “3 and 7/16 inches”?
Yes, always. And the entire world gets angry when I use inches instead of metric.
@@DIYMontreal And, in fact, Canada is bilangue when it comes to measurement. Height of a person in feet/inches; distance on the highway in kilometres.
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