Check out the Creality Ender-3 V3 SE 3D Printer that I used for making this project: Creality USA store: shrsl.com/4dt7a ; EU Store: shrsl.com/4dt80 ; Amazon: amzn.to/423d6B7 You can order the PCB from PCBWay project sharing community: www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Custom_built_Servo_Motor_1e79c92e.html I hope you enjoyed this video and learned something new! Please consider supporting me on Patreon: www.patreon.com/howtomechatronics
First, awesome video and thanks. About dimensional accuracy with 3D printing. I have an old i3 Duplicator that was giving me dimensional issues many years ago, i knew it wasn't plastic extrusion rate or shrinkage because on my (very) old Replicator the parts where coming out "perfect", no matter the orientation. The prints where coming out warped (shrunk in the Y axis near the back of the build plate). This is when i found the belts weren't lined up to the pully, which causes a issues with travel (a2+b2=c2). So i designed a new bracket to hold the stepper motor to be perfectly aliened with the belt and bed belt mount to be perfectly parallel. With that said, i took a close look at the printer you have at a local Micro Center and found the belts and pulleys to be off by about 2-3mm. That's significant, and I'm certain that's the issue you have with your prints. 3D printing ironically helps counter plastic shrinkage compared to molding. This is practically why they then to have internal stresses and generally are stiffer than there molded counterpart, i.e. why annealing 3D printed parts is a thing. And for functional parts i use as little part cooling as i can, both for better layer adhesion and reduce internal stresses for parts i need to have a little flex. On the printer you have the tool head belt mounts are about 2-3mm off line and the bed is about 1-2mm off. The prints will warp near either end of the X-axis and the front of the bed as the stepper motor is at the back. The KE is even worse on the bed belt I currently have a very modified Sermoon D1, with ~0.015-0.03 dimensional variance. I also squared the frame and trammed the bed to the tool head axis, then to finish it all i put 7lbs (14lbs pull force on the motor, as the belt wraps around the pully halfing the tension per side). Used a scale for luggage to pull on the motor
The only changes i would recommend would be the bearings in the base. Rather than stacking them and using a retaining plate, model the separator plate in the base. Install one bearing on the lead screw side, and the other on the gear side. The gear and the collar will work together to clamp the bearings in the housing against the bearing seperator, so no need for a retaining plate. Mechanically, this looks amazing! Good work! Electronically, theres another improvement. On the uC, start your sketch by checking to see if theres a 40-200hz signal. If so, proceed to rc control. If not, proceed with analog control. If you periodically check the inputs (once a second?) Then you should be able to swap inputs on the fly and no need for a toggle. The impact on loop times should be negligable if executed correctly and you can run the rest of your code along side it, assuming the input hasn'r changed until it knows for a fact during its test that it did change inputs. It's a pretty simple mod to detect signal type because they are sooooooo Different. Hell, you could even use an interrupt to. Monitor the input. If the interrupt counts up within a second, the acceptable frequency, then you switch to rc control. You can run interrupts while analog sampling. And yes, i know interrupts are digital pins. However 328 has 2 comparitor pins A0 and A1 that can be assigned as an interrupt. Keep in mind, this is just one way to handle this issue. You could also tie either D2 or D3 to the analog pin you decide to use and just flip flop between code segments as necessary as well. There are a ton of ways to automate that in code so you dont have to use mechanical switches which would make your board even smaller!
to get rid of most of the backlash you could try to use two nuts to clamp the threads of the rod tightly to the threads of the nut. Put two nuts directly together and force a thin spacer between them to push them outwards. Then fix the position somehow.
its really great !! I wanted to find this controller board ready-made, instead of having to build the PCB and solder the components... can you tell me if I can find a ready-made board that does the same, on aliexpress?
THIS is exactly what I was waiting for for years to come!!! Wow! I have to thank you soooo much! How can I get the PCB plans to order it from PCBway? And how can I pay you for that?!
very good video. But I am curious, what is the benefit of using the servo as opposed to a stepper motor? You will not have the slight adjustment at the end after feedback.
Well it's possible to make this control system with feedback sensor using stepper motor as well. I should first try it out and then tell you the difference. :)
I mean, you don't need 1 bearing, you need 2 bearings slightly smaller than the width of the guide slot (and each of them rests on a single face of the slot) if you want them to rotate when the actuator moves.
Yeah, your contemplating is correct, the bearing couldn't rotate if it touches the two guide rails. However, there gap is just slightly larger than the bearing, so the bearing touches only one side at a time. Because of that, of course, the rod rotates just a little bit.
please tell me/us: what is the name of the tool used for inserting the "female screws" or inserts (is that their name, is that how you call them?), the hot one, is it just a soldering iron? Ah! yes: I saw your blog post: the threaded inserts, how do you insert them? using a soldering iron?
How can I control servo by text in serial monitor for example Isend in serial monitor "play" when I send it Iwant rotating the servo 90° how can I do it I try it by number done but by text not how can you help me please.
Yes sir, muze bhi sir 4.5 Ipa ka pakage mila hai at maruti Suzuki gudgoan dilhi plant as a junior engineer trainee and my college name is indo German tool room Aurangabad Maharashtra to me kya karu sir mere Ghar Wale bol rahe hai btech kr tu to me kya karu sir and muze quality or production any of one department me Dene vale hai to me kya karu sir and maine diploma in Mechatronics Kiya hai sir Please sir give me of your mentor please sir..
Well the mechanical part is all the same of course. Like mentioned in the video, instead of the custom controller PCB you use the AS5600 on a breakout board, and use the raspberry pi to make the program.
@@HowToMechatronics you have a attractive intonation ... i not speak good and i thinked that you used an artificial voice and was interested! good luck!
Check out the Creality Ender-3 V3 SE 3D Printer that I used for making this project:
Creality USA store: shrsl.com/4dt7a ; EU Store: shrsl.com/4dt80 ; Amazon: amzn.to/423d6B7
You can order the PCB from PCBWay project sharing community: www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Custom_built_Servo_Motor_1e79c92e.html
I hope you enjoyed this video and learned something new! Please consider supporting me on Patreon: www.patreon.com/howtomechatronics
How can i contact you for enquiry.
The best video I've ever come across on DIY linear actuators in every sense. Keep up the good work!!!
Thank you!
Always a joy to watch your very clean work.
Glad to hear that!
Great to see a new project from you!
Thank you!
First, awesome video and thanks. About dimensional accuracy with 3D printing. I have an old i3 Duplicator that was giving me dimensional issues many years ago, i knew it wasn't plastic extrusion rate or shrinkage because on my (very) old Replicator the parts where coming out "perfect", no matter the orientation. The prints where coming out warped (shrunk in the Y axis near the back of the build plate). This is when i found the belts weren't lined up to the pully, which causes a issues with travel (a2+b2=c2). So i designed a new bracket to hold the stepper motor to be perfectly aliened with the belt and bed belt mount to be perfectly parallel.
With that said, i took a close look at the printer you have at a local Micro Center and found the belts and pulleys to be off by about 2-3mm. That's significant, and I'm certain that's the issue you have with your prints. 3D printing ironically helps counter plastic shrinkage compared to molding. This is practically why they then to have internal stresses and generally are stiffer than there molded counterpart, i.e. why annealing 3D printed parts is a thing. And for functional parts i use as little part cooling as i can, both for better layer adhesion and reduce internal stresses for parts i need to have a little flex.
On the printer you have the tool head belt mounts are about 2-3mm off line and the bed is about 1-2mm off. The prints will warp near either end of the X-axis and the front of the bed as the stepper motor is at the back. The KE is even worse on the bed belt
I currently have a very modified Sermoon D1, with ~0.015-0.03 dimensional variance. I also squared the frame and trammed the bed to the tool head axis, then to finish it all i put 7lbs (14lbs pull force on the motor, as the belt wraps around the pully halfing the tension per side). Used a scale for luggage to pull on the motor
Very nice! Thanks for sharing 👍🏼
Great project ❤
Impressive build! Great video!!
Thanks!
Excellent work! I use the heat set inserts as well, very strong and reliable connection with the correct infill percentage.
Thanks!
What infill percentage would you use? Is 25% enough for PLA? Or would it be better to add more outer layers?
Fantastic!!! Huge money saver!!
I'm very impressed. Very good work
Thank you! Cheers!
Thank you for the video and for sharing your knowledge. 😄
My pleasure!
I am going to make this. Thank you!
Have fun!
VERY nice project! 👍👍👍👍
Great explanation
Glad it was helpful!
The only changes i would recommend would be the bearings in the base. Rather than stacking them and using a retaining plate, model the separator plate in the base. Install one bearing on the lead screw side, and the other on the gear side. The gear and the collar will work together to clamp the bearings in the housing against the bearing seperator, so no need for a retaining plate.
Mechanically, this looks amazing! Good work!
Electronically, theres another improvement. On the uC, start your sketch by checking to see if theres a 40-200hz signal. If so, proceed to rc control. If not, proceed with analog control. If you periodically check the inputs (once a second?) Then you should be able to swap inputs on the fly and no need for a toggle. The impact on loop times should be negligable if executed correctly and you can run the rest of your code along side it, assuming the input hasn'r changed until it knows for a fact during its test that it did change inputs.
It's a pretty simple mod to detect signal type because they are sooooooo Different. Hell, you could even use an interrupt to. Monitor the input. If the interrupt counts up within a second, the acceptable frequency, then you switch to rc control. You can run interrupts while analog sampling. And yes, i know interrupts are digital pins. However 328 has 2 comparitor pins A0 and A1 that can be assigned as an interrupt. Keep in mind, this is just one way to handle this issue. You could also tie either D2 or D3 to the analog pin you decide to use and just flip flop between code segments as necessary as well. There are a ton of ways to automate that in code so you dont have to use mechanical switches which would make your board even smaller!
to get rid of most of the backlash you could try to use two nuts to clamp the threads of the rod tightly to the threads of the nut. Put two nuts directly together and force a thin spacer between them to push them outwards. Then fix the position somehow.
its really great !! I wanted to find this controller board ready-made, instead of having to build the PCB and solder the components... can you tell me if I can find a ready-made board that does the same, on aliexpress?
muito bom saber que da pra usar outros motores com a placa
THIS is exactly what I was waiting for for years to come!!!
Wow!
I have to thank you soooo much!
How can I get the PCB plans to order it from PCBway? And how can I pay you for that?!
Glad to hear you found it useful!
Yep, you can order the PCB directly from the PCBWay project sharing community, there is a link in the description.
Brilliant
Thanks!
Great video❤
Thanks!
Excelente! 👍🏻
Thanks!
Good job
Thanks!
This is what i required, but bit smaller version
Nice work.
Have you tested the thrust this can produce?
Thanks! Nope, I didn't do force tests.
Sir please make a Hall effect joystick.
very good video. But I am curious, what is the benefit of using the servo as opposed to a stepper motor? You will not have the slight adjustment at the end after feedback.
Well it's possible to make this control system with feedback sensor using stepper motor as well. I should first try it out and then tell you the difference. :)
Good video 😊
Thank you!
I have noticed you don't answer any of the questions supporter post????
e. eee. ee. eeeee. ee.
@@MrAlex3461ee. eeee?
Please create a arduino drone flight controller with all features 🙏
Very good job! But I don't know how the bearing on the top of the rod works . I think it can't rotate when actuator is going forward or backward...
I mean, you don't need 1 bearing, you need 2 bearings slightly smaller than the width of the guide slot (and each of them rests on a single face of the slot) if you want them to rotate when the actuator moves.
Yeah, your contemplating is correct, the bearing couldn't rotate if it touches the two guide rails. However, there gap is just slightly larger than the bearing, so the bearing touches only one side at a time. Because of that, of course, the rod rotates just a little bit.
Why piston not squate profile?
How many KGS can it lift?
please tell me/us: what is the name of the tool used for inserting the "female screws" or inserts (is that their name, is that how you call them?), the hot one, is it just a soldering iron? Ah! yes: I saw your blog post: the threaded inserts, how do you insert them? using a soldering iron?
Yep, it's a soldering iron. 😀
@@HowToMechatronics Kewl
❤❤
Чуть уши не лопнули...
You have the coolest gadgets...I'd like to see a stepper motor adapter PCB.
Thank you!
Brat, od Makedonija si?
How can I control servo by text in serial monitor for example Isend in serial monitor "play" when I send it Iwant rotating the servo 90° how can I do it I try it by number done but by text not how can you help me please.
Well take a look at the Arduino code, it explains how I did that for this project.
@@HowToMechatronics
Sir , what's code I look for it ?
مرسی
DIY sim racing motion rig when ? 😀
hehe one day :)
Can i use stepper motor
Yes, but DC motors are a lot cheaper.
Yes sir, muze bhi sir 4.5 Ipa ka pakage mila hai at maruti Suzuki gudgoan dilhi plant as a junior engineer trainee and my college name is indo German tool room Aurangabad Maharashtra to me kya karu sir mere Ghar Wale bol rahe hai btech kr tu to me kya karu sir and muze quality or production any of one department me Dene vale hai to me kya karu sir and maine diploma in Mechatronics Kiya hai sir
Please sir give me of your mentor please sir..
cool.
what would it look like using a raspberry pi
Well the mechanical part is all the same of course. Like mentioned in the video, instead of the custom controller PCB you use the AS5600 on a breakout board, and use the raspberry pi to make the program.
I'll make one for my wife❤
1st view
💀
is your voice?
Yes his voice is
hehe yeah, but I got a cold 😀
@@jum.5622thank you lol...I REALLY needed this comment. Yes Cuban B!!!
@@jeremygalloway1348 X)
@@HowToMechatronics you have a attractive intonation ... i not speak good and i thinked that you used an artificial voice and was interested! good luck!