Great video sir. One thing regarding C02 bottles was when you refill your bottle, some places will swap bottles. Don’t buy a new c02 bottle because you’ll use it once and never see it again
@@TheBruSho If you go to bigger welding supply places , this will happen. I found a small place and purchased a new 20lb filled bottle for the cost of a empty one elsewhere. I also have a 5lb bottle which I will fill with the 20lb bottle. They’ll fill my 20lb bottle for less then other places charges for the 5lb ! This may seem extreme to some , but I’ll save money in the long run. Also, avoid Air Gas for refills. I weld and have bottles I have to fill, they’re always 1/3 more $$$ than other places. The place is in Irwindale CA if your interested. Great video
Nice! One time I showed up with a 5lb to a spot at the end of the day and they didn’t have any 5lbs to swap so they gave me a 10lb for same price. Guess if you find a nice joint then you are lucky!
Shoutout Received! And yes, i recently put the wrong posts on and it was a nightmare to get off. Turns out plastic hates being on metal #lol! Great video per usual!
@@aamehey1287 yeahh but then i would need to invest a bunch of money into it and i often bring bottles of beer as a small gift, not for drinking immediately
I'm just getting started as a home brewer but one thing I learned very quickly is that bottling beer is a royal pain the tuchus for batches that are 3 gallons or larger. I also learned that getting the carbonation right is easier and more consistent in a keg than it is on per bottle basis with priming sugar. It shouldn't matter but it in my limited experience it does. I will only bottle when the batch size is 2 gallons. Anything over that will go into a mini keg or Corny keg.
I started with bottle conditioning, like most homebrewers. I soon moved on to kegging simply because having one vessel to clean and sanitise was easier than 40 bottles. I built a 2 keg keezer out of a chest freezer and picked up a couple extra kegs for things line aging imperial stouts. I've recently looked into moving back to bottle conditioning for 2 reasons. 1 for bottle shares, last year I joined a local homebrew group who meets up monthly to swap beers and bottles were easier than lugging a 19L corny keg with Co2 tank and tubing around. 2 previously I'll drink a batch of beer as I make it, which is fun, however I wanted to be able to save part of a batch to enjoy down the line. maybe for a style I don't want to drink continually for 40 pints or a stronger ABV% I want to give more time to develop. so while I'll still brew simpler beer or more hop forward beers to fill my lines I'll still reach for the bottles to save that batch of imperial stout or Munich lager to give it the time it deserves to develop properly.
I started homebrewing because of the Belgians. And they bottle condition their ales. And those beers age well mainly because of their high ABV. And I love to bottle too, so it's not really a chore. Bottles have the advantage of being small. You can't give a keg to a friend...
awesome... I'm somewhere in between.. where for each batch I'm doing some bottles and kegging as well. I like to hand out bottles, while also having some left at home for me to enjoy....
I'm pretty much a novice and have only done 12 batches so far (I've I've sitting in the fermenter right now). Still work 23-24 litres each, each batch is over 40 bottles so I'm probably close to 500 bottles. It's a pain in the ass. The thing holding me back is that I've no room for a dedicated fridge and i like cold beer. I'm going to have to come to with a solution. Maybe a Corny keg and mini keg combo but it's pricy. That way i can fill the mini keg off the main one and put the mini keg in the fridge...
To anyone watching this as their first foray into setting up a brewing kit at home: Spend the extra money on the floor capper. I have lost more liters of beer to escaping bottles when capping than I have to bad fermentations.
I accidentally double primed a bottle. It didn't explode, other then when I opened the twist top. The cap shot off and took paint off roof, and then all the contents of bottle fissed out in a dramatic fashion 😂.
I combine. Pressure fermentation on a 30 l keg. If it is to a party I close transfer to another keg and serve w a Lindr cooler and tap. Otherwise I bottle. I like to bring my beer out sailing and give away. Then bottles are best.
Very interesting. How about those mini "party kegs", are they worth trying ? I ask because I'm going "scale-up" a little from 5 liter batches to 25 liter batches in a couple of weeks since I'm considering purchasing the Brewmonk G40 Wifi.
You guys are awesome, I wish you guys cover how to use a non-pressurized mini keg with the Homecraft Black Stainless Steel Easy-Dispensing Tap Beer Cooling System Kegerator, a 5L system that also comes with a plastic keg, is it possible to show how to use Mr. Brew and carbonate with this system?
A used fridge makes a great cheap kegerator. You make blocks of ice for cooling wort and your cooler, savng on buying it. Then you dispense your own beer from the fridge.
Awesome video Trent 👌 Ed has been bottling a stout this week. I just made my first IPA from a kit which is fermenting in a small barrel. I need to add dextrose in a few days.....not sure how that’ll work out. I guess I can put it in bottles if it fails. I also considered using a Soda Stream machine 😂
A better way to prime is to boil 2 cups of water and dissolve the corn sugar into it then continue the boil for 5 minutes. Kill the heat, cover, and let it cool to room temperature. Add that priming solution to the bottling bucket then gently siphon the beer onto it. The reason for this is to sterilize the corn sugar and eliminate the chance of contamination. No reason to needlessly fumble the sanitization football on the 1 yard line.
I hear ya, it can definitely be a mess, give kegging a try, you wont regret it once you see how easy it is! Haven't used a pressure barrel but that sounds interesting.
@@TheBruSho I had two pressure barrels before but I threw them out a couple years ago 🤦 They're a plastic barrel with a tap at the bottom and a screw cap on top with a pressure release valve in it. You transfer your finished beer into in with all of your priming sugar. When it's ready to drink after priming and conditioning, pressure is gradually reduced from pouring off glasses of beer, you repressurise through the valve in the cap with little CO2 bullets. The only issues I found with them is the tap that comes with them aren't the best, but they work, and because of not being able to fine tune the pressure it can be a bit spluttery when pouring off. You soon get the hang of it though. They're called pressure barrels here in the UK, you guys might have a different name for them. Edit, that's if you haven't come across these. If you have then yeah sure know what they are 😆
Is sugar needed if kegging. I have been brewing a few times and hated bottling so like you stated I’m now ready to keg my brew. What I’m confused about is adding or deleting the sugar for carbonation since the co2 is used to carbonate. Should I delete the sugar from my ingredients? Thanks for your help.
Hey Trent. If I put my 1 gallon, fermented batch into a 1 gallon, pressurized growler, could I also add priming sugar for a little additional fermentation while I wait for the CO2 to do its thing also? I assume yes and that I would just have to wait until that remaining yeast does its thing?
I think it’s an either or. Either you add sugar and wait 2 weeks for it build pressure in it or add co2 and get pressurized within a few days/a week. To me it doesn’t make sense to do both but I guess you could. Might be over carbed eventually though
@@TheBruSho Thanks man. I appreciate you taking the time to respond. Gonna end up trying to force it. If that doesn't work, I'll be dumping sugar in it. Haha. Love your channel!
Yeah totally, I did a video called Packaging Home Brew from a Keg. But the key is to purge bottles with co2 so you don’t oxidize and fill them up slowly to not lose too much carb
You can still carbonate but it will take more co2 probably since it doesn’t dissolve into warm beer as well as cold. If you can’t fit both keg and tank in fridge you could always pressurize it and toss the keg only in fridge to keep cold. Then top up with pressure when it gets low.
Without a kegerator - can I still proceed with kegging over bottling? Will leaving the CO2 running at a higher PSI for longer help make up for doing this at a cool room temperature?
If you have a fridge to keep the beer cold that would work. But that can take a lot of room in a fridge, unless you have a mini keg. Co2 absorbs better into cold beer, but you will get some pressure at higher temps. Not sure what pressure you would want but I think it would be inefficient use of co2. And I guess then you’d be drinking warm beer.
@@TheBruSho Got it. My goal is to keg the beer and then bottle the beers from the keg (I watched your video on this). I want to do this in order to produce bottles without sediment on the bottom (so we can drink from the bottle). For the 1-2 day process of forced carbonization (CO2 being added to the fermented batch) - does this need to take place in a fridge (meaning I need to fit CO2 tank and keg in a fridge)? I was wondering if I can add CO2 at room temperature, then bottle, then refrigerate the bottles to make them cold? Thanks!!
@@jesseo1562 yeah the co2 should be applied to the keg in the fridge. Although if you don’t have space you could apply pressure and then disconnect and leave just the keg in the fridge. Then you just need to reattach and apply more pressure like 12 hours later, repeating as necessary until it’s carbed up. I do that sometimes and it works. Then you could bottle off that
Question. Once bottle conditioning has hit its 2 week mark, it's recommended to chill the goods. But can the bottles continue to be stored at room temp? Or is there a risk of overcarbination?
I think as long as you are precise on your carbonation and priming sugar you shouldn’t have a bottle bomb. Chilling is just to help the co2 absorb into the beer better and not all fizz out once opening
When the sugar is fine there is no more fermentation. You can store them at room temperature but beer last longer in a cool dark place. If by Andy chance you've got some few Lactobacillus it will prolong your shelf life to store cold.
I shoot with my Canon t2i and use a cheap onboard mic. Definitely due for an upgrade but it gets the job done! And the links in the description are affiliate links!
1 week to 2 weeks to carbonate. 2 weeks in bottles is pretty standard. I always have plenty of carb after first week it just taste better after 2 week mark.
BAAHAHAHA - yeah those corny kegs at $75 were a BARGAIN compared to the current $91 each. Totally agree...bottling is the cheapest and usually the entry point to packaging your beer. Some kits even include bottling caps, but, kegging is KING. It takes literally 3-5 minutes to keg 5 gallons and, if you count the time to sanitize your bottles, add the bottling sugar, fill the bottles, cap the bottles and finally to bottle condition - that's a lot of time. Either way, you get delicious beer. Cheers!
Great video sir. One thing regarding C02 bottles was when you refill your bottle, some places will swap bottles. Don’t buy a new c02 bottle because you’ll use it once and never see it again
Thats a great point, thank you!!
@@TheBruSho If you go to bigger welding supply places , this will happen. I found a small place and purchased a new 20lb filled bottle for the cost of a empty one elsewhere. I also have a 5lb bottle which I will fill with the 20lb bottle. They’ll fill my 20lb bottle for less then other places charges for the 5lb ! This may seem extreme to some , but I’ll save money in the long run. Also, avoid Air Gas for refills. I weld and have bottles I have to fill, they’re always 1/3 more $$$ than other places. The place is in Irwindale CA if your interested. Great video
Nice! One time I showed up with a 5lb to a spot at the end of the day and they didn’t have any 5lbs to swap so they gave me a 10lb for same price. Guess if you find a nice joint then you are lucky!
Welding co2 isn't always food grade.
Shoutout Received! And yes, i recently put the wrong posts on and it was a nightmare to get off. Turns out plastic hates being on metal #lol! Great video per usual!
Haha I’ve done it too! Takes some brute force and no mercy to get it off. Thanks!
What a nice video man I did almost 200 beers bottles and now I’m ready for going to Keg, although the inversion would be bigger
best homebrew channel on youtube!
Right back at ya!!
I stick to bottle conditioning because for me homebrewing is very social and i bring a few bottles of my beer with me when visiting friends
You can still use the keg set up and then just bring growlers with you to your friends house. That’s what I’m gonna do.
@@aamehey1287 yeahh but then i would need to invest a bunch of money into it and i often bring bottles of beer as a small gift, not for drinking immediately
I'm just getting started as a home brewer but one thing I learned very quickly is that bottling beer is a royal pain the tuchus for batches that are 3 gallons or larger. I also learned that getting the carbonation right is easier and more consistent in a keg than it is on per bottle basis with priming sugar. It shouldn't matter but it in my limited experience it does. I will only bottle when the batch size is 2 gallons. Anything over that will go into a mini keg or Corny keg.
For me I like making lots of small batches for variety. But kegging does look handy
I started with bottle conditioning, like most homebrewers. I soon moved on to kegging simply because having one vessel to clean and sanitise was easier than 40 bottles. I built a 2 keg keezer out of a chest freezer and picked up a couple extra kegs for things line aging imperial stouts.
I've recently looked into moving back to bottle conditioning for 2 reasons.
1 for bottle shares, last year I joined a local homebrew group who meets up monthly to swap beers and bottles were easier than lugging a 19L corny keg with Co2 tank and tubing around.
2 previously I'll drink a batch of beer as I make it, which is fun, however I wanted to be able to save part of a batch to enjoy down the line.
maybe for a style I don't want to drink continually for 40 pints or a stronger ABV% I want to give more time to develop.
so while I'll still brew simpler beer or more hop forward beers to fill my lines I'll still reach for the bottles to save that batch of imperial stout or Munich lager to give it the time it deserves to develop properly.
Great insight and thought process, thanks for sharing your reasoning!
Why not bottle off the keg? Super easy. I do it and post friends/family beers
I started homebrewing because of the Belgians. And they bottle condition their ales. And those beers age well mainly because of their high ABV. And I love to bottle too, so it's not really a chore. Bottles have the advantage of being small. You can't give a keg to a friend...
Very true!
awesome... I'm somewhere in between.. where for each batch I'm doing some bottles and kegging as well. I like to hand out bottles, while also having some left at home for me to enjoy....
I'm pretty much a novice and have only done 12 batches so far (I've I've sitting in the fermenter right now). Still work 23-24 litres each, each batch is over 40 bottles so I'm probably close to 500 bottles. It's a pain in the ass. The thing holding me back is that I've no room for a dedicated fridge and i like cold beer. I'm going to have to come to with a solution. Maybe a Corny keg and mini keg combo but it's pricy. That way i can fill the mini keg off the main one and put the mini keg in the fridge...
To anyone watching this as their first foray into setting up a brewing kit at home: Spend the extra money on the floor capper. I have lost more liters of beer to escaping bottles when capping than I have to bad fermentations.
I accidentally double primed a bottle. It didn't explode, other then when I opened the twist top. The cap shot off and took paint off roof, and then all the contents of bottle fissed out in a dramatic fashion 😂.
I combine. Pressure fermentation on a 30 l keg. If it is to a party I close transfer to another keg and serve w a Lindr cooler and tap. Otherwise I bottle. I like to bring my beer out sailing and give away. Then bottles are best.
Great vid as always! Unfortunately I don’t have space for a kegerator right now, so it’s just bottling for me.
I was in the same spot for a while so I know what it’s like. Can still make amazing bottled beer!
Very interesting. How about those mini "party kegs", are they worth trying ? I ask because I'm going "scale-up" a little from 5 liter batches to 25 liter batches in a couple of weeks since I'm considering purchasing the Brewmonk G40 Wifi.
What's the lowest practical pressure the keg can work at? I brew UK real ale and it needs to be about 4psi. Will that work? Great video.
You guys are awesome, I wish you guys cover how to use a non-pressurized mini keg with the Homecraft Black Stainless Steel Easy-Dispensing Tap Beer Cooling System Kegerator, a 5L system that also comes with a plastic keg, is it possible to show how to use Mr. Brew and carbonate with this system?
Great video Mr !
So informative! Great video!
Thanks for watching!
A used fridge makes a great cheap kegerator. You make blocks of ice for cooling wort and your cooler, savng on buying it. Then you dispense your own beer from the fridge.
I know this is probably a dumb question, but I've never kegged so here goes: Is it a bad idea to put a small batch (1 to 2.5 gal) in a 5 gal keg?
No not at all, you can totally put smaller amounts in bigger kegs with no issues!
@@TheBruSho Thanks Trent, love the show!
Awesome video Trent 👌 Ed has been bottling a stout this week. I just made my first IPA from a kit which is fermenting in a small barrel. I need to add dextrose in a few days.....not sure how that’ll work out. I guess I can put it in bottles if it fails. I also considered using a Soda Stream machine 😂
Thanks! And oh wow I haven’t thought about using a soda stream but I’d imagine it would work... let me know if you try it out!
How long can you leave the beer in primary and still bottle condition?
Fill a pet-bottle (plastic) and when it’s hard the carbonation is achieved, easy way to know when it’s done.
Great tip thanks!
I should start filling a couple of PET bottles instead of cracking open random glass bottles to check if it's carbonated yet. Thanks
A better way to prime is to boil 2 cups of water and dissolve the corn sugar into it then continue the boil for 5 minutes. Kill the heat, cover, and let it cool to room temperature. Add that priming solution to the bottling bucket then gently siphon the beer onto it. The reason for this is to sterilize the corn sugar and eliminate the chance of contamination. No reason to needlessly fumble the sanitization football on the 1 yard line.
Good points!
Excellent video. Thank you.
No thank you!!
Love this! We subscribe. Please keep up the good work👍👍👍👍👍
Awesome!! Thanks so much!
Can I add the corn sugar to the keg instead of force carbonization ?
I've had it with bottling! No matter how prepared I am it always ends up a mess. Time for a keg of some sort, thinking a pressure barrel maybe.
I hear ya, it can definitely be a mess, give kegging a try, you wont regret it once you see how easy it is! Haven't used a pressure barrel but that sounds interesting.
@@TheBruSho I had two pressure barrels before but I threw them out a couple years ago 🤦 They're a plastic barrel with a tap at the bottom and a screw cap on top with a pressure release valve in it. You transfer your finished beer into in with all of your priming sugar. When it's ready to drink after priming and conditioning, pressure is gradually reduced from pouring off glasses of beer, you repressurise through the valve in the cap with little CO2 bullets. The only issues I found with them is the tap that comes with them aren't the best, but they work, and because of not being able to fine tune the pressure it can be a bit spluttery when pouring off. You soon get the hang of it though. They're called pressure barrels here in the UK, you guys might have a different name for them.
Edit, that's if you haven't come across these. If you have then yeah sure know what they are 😆
@@bockerwright4132 that sounds really interesting! I am going to look into these, thanks for sharing!
@@bockerwright4132 How on earth is it a mess? Maybe time consuming
@@thestuff4321 Yeah it's time consuming alright using bottles. Got a keg now, saves a lot of time.
Is sugar needed if kegging. I have been brewing a few times and hated bottling so like you stated I’m now ready to keg my brew. What I’m confused about is adding or deleting the sugar for carbonation since the co2 is used to carbonate. Should I delete the sugar from my ingredients?
Thanks for your help.
No extra sugar needed for kegging. It’s all done with store bought co2
Great info thank ya!
Hey Trent. If I put my 1 gallon, fermented batch into a 1 gallon, pressurized growler, could I also add priming sugar for a little additional fermentation while I wait for the CO2 to do its thing also? I assume yes and that I would just have to wait until that remaining yeast does its thing?
I think it’s an either or. Either you add sugar and wait 2 weeks for it build pressure in it or add co2 and get pressurized within a few days/a week. To me it doesn’t make sense to do both but I guess you could. Might be over carbed eventually though
@@TheBruSho Thanks man. I appreciate you taking the time to respond. Gonna end up trying to force it. If that doesn't work, I'll be dumping sugar in it. Haha. Love your channel!
Hey Trent, love your videos. Does this apply for home brewed seltzers as well? And would the bottling calculator work for those?
Yes and yes!
@@TheBruSho Awesome thank you!
Thanks for the great video! I saw a pear chai cidar in the background. Is that your own recipe? If so, how did it come out and would you mind sharing?
Yep! It is amazing, there is a video on it on this channel, check it out! It's also linked in one of the cards in this vid.
@@TheBruSho thanks so much!
#teamkeg cheers Trent ! 🍻🍻
Hahah for sure!!
Can you put beer/cider from a keg into bottles and store them? If so, will they keep the carbonation for a while?
Yeah totally, I did a video called Packaging Home Brew from a Keg. But the key is to purge bottles with co2 so you don’t oxidize and fill them up slowly to not lose too much carb
@@TheBruSho great! Thanks for sharing.
Great video thanks. It will help me a lot. I may not be able to force carbonate under refrigeration. Is this a problem? Thanks in advance
You can still carbonate but it will take more co2 probably since it doesn’t dissolve into warm beer as well as cold. If you can’t fit both keg and tank in fridge you could always pressurize it and toss the keg only in fridge to keep cold. Then top up with pressure when it gets low.
@@TheBruSho I will try that thanks again.
Without a kegerator - can I still proceed with kegging over bottling? Will leaving the CO2 running at a higher PSI for longer help make up for doing this at a cool room temperature?
If you have a fridge to keep the beer cold that would work. But that can take a lot of room in a fridge, unless you have a mini keg. Co2 absorbs better into cold beer, but you will get some pressure at higher temps. Not sure what pressure you would want but I think it would be inefficient use of co2. And I guess then you’d be drinking warm beer.
@@TheBruSho Got it. My goal is to keg the beer and then bottle the beers from the keg (I watched your video on this). I want to do this in order to produce bottles without sediment on the bottom (so we can drink from the bottle). For the 1-2 day process of forced carbonization (CO2 being added to the fermented batch) - does this need to take place in a fridge (meaning I need to fit CO2 tank and keg in a fridge)? I was wondering if I can add CO2 at room temperature, then bottle, then refrigerate the bottles to make them cold? Thanks!!
@@jesseo1562 yeah the co2 should be applied to the keg in the fridge. Although if you don’t have space you could apply pressure and then disconnect and leave just the keg in the fridge. Then you just need to reattach and apply more pressure like 12 hours later, repeating as necessary until it’s carbed up. I do that sometimes and it works. Then you could bottle off that
Question. Once bottle conditioning has hit its 2 week mark, it's recommended to chill the goods. But can the bottles continue to be stored at room temp? Or is there a risk of overcarbination?
I think as long as you are precise on your carbonation and priming sugar you shouldn’t have a bottle bomb. Chilling is just to help the co2 absorb into the beer better and not all fizz out once opening
When the sugar is fine there is no more fermentation. You can store them at room temperature but beer last longer in a cool dark place. If by Andy chance you've got some few Lactobacillus it will prolong your shelf life to store cold.
What is the typical time difference between "bottle conditioning" and carbonating in a keg?
Bottle conditioning is about 2 weeks, and kegging can be as quick as a half day but up to one week if you just set it and forget it
What type of camera and microphone do you use dude?
Could also put affiliat links to all that gear too
I shoot with my Canon t2i and use a cheap onboard mic. Definitely due for an upgrade but it gets the job done!
And the links in the description are affiliate links!
@@TheBruSho I mean affiliate links for all the gear you use to shoot the videos ect
@@dantedeluca978 Ahh good call, I will include them moving forward, thanks!
Does sediment is unavoidable when bottling?
Pretty much unavoidable. It’s a byproduct of bottle conditioning
Bottle conditioning should not be cool, but at least 70F. Furthermore, it takes 3 weeks or more if you want properly carbonated beer.
Great tip!
1 week to 2 weeks to carbonate. 2 weeks in bottles is pretty standard. I always have plenty of carb after first week it just taste better after 2 week mark.
Jeezdidnt realize dextrose was corn sugar.so I guess its fullof glyphosate then?
I have no idea about that, will have to look into it
Keg only for me ..
I feel you! Might have to invest in some smaller kegs for smaller brews
BAAHAHAHA - yeah those corny kegs at $75 were a BARGAIN compared to the current $91 each. Totally agree...bottling is the cheapest and usually the entry point to packaging your beer. Some kits even include bottling caps, but, kegging is KING. It takes literally 3-5 minutes to keg 5 gallons and, if you count the time to sanitize your bottles, add the bottling sugar, fill the bottles, cap the bottles and finally to bottle condition - that's a lot of time. Either way, you get delicious beer. Cheers!
Why did you talk about natural carbonation in a keg you can do that two
Might have to do a video on that too!
@@TheBruSho because if you do not have money for co2 you can keg that way and just use the small co2 tubes to help push it out
@@Kberrysal smart thinking! Thank you for that!
👎again
👎commercials
I have no control over ads
One does not "imbibe in". One "imbibes". Or "indulges in".
It's your own language, for heaven's sake. Learn it.
Good tip