I know this is a bit older, but my biggest tip is to buy a keg and spunding valve! They're not overly expensive, especially if you can find a used one. It's not a perfect replacement for temp control, but fermenting under pressure really helps with those "cleaner" beers. Plus you can serve directly from the keg. I ferment every batch in my keg, and on those beers where strict temp control isn't an issue (or it's cool enough to not worry), I set my spunding valve down to 1-2 PSI and the yeast produce flavor compounds as though I was fermenting with just a standard airlock. Best brewing purchase I've ever made.
Cheers mate, Been brewing for a few months now with varying results. We have been having a lot of 40c degrees here in Australia so temp control is my main issue, I normally use wet towels and a fan and it works alright. I will skip over and check out the water chemistry video, never gave the water much thought. Being an aquarium keeper for over two decades I should already have a good bit of knowledge about water chemistry.
Damn Trent, beat me to the punch for the topic on this weeks video!! Looks we share a lot of the same ideas on how to quickly improve haha. Great video as usual, keep up the good work!
thanks for the video. I turned allgrain a few years ago and am hooked, but you need a dedicated area for it. It is more messy. It's cheaper. German lagers are made better with it and I would say in Canada because good beer is so expensive just go out and buy a Brewzilla or Grainfather and be done with it, add a good counterflow chiller and a conical and all temp control is built in. It will payback in 1yr easy !
With Water. I have a RO system with remineralization of electrolytes added. potassium, sodium and magnesium and its great for my ciders and hard kombucha. I am almost at all grain and your tip on a partial mash could be just what i needed to hear. The thing is that I hear that the malt extracts taste terrible and with my ciders at 9%; the malt extracts only give me ~ 4%.. Maybe add a cup or two of dextrose to heighten that. Good Video Trey.
I tried to explain a yeast starter as a viable way to double a "smack pack" in 12 hours... and the eyes went glazy. I even said, it's a small beer solution with DME, weight and all... nope... I think everyone just believes you NEED a stir plate and magnet-bar and the Erlenmeyer flask, which is just not true! It's true, you get what you get, but planning ahead I always do a starter. AND yeah... I use a magnetic plate and stir, but didn't always.
Thanks for the tips! I'm looking to get a spunding valve to ferment under pressure so that temp is not as critical. Using a Blichmann Cornical system... Love it.
In your video it looked like you added your nutrients at about the same time as when you pitch the yeast. I’ve used yeast nutrient in the boil. Is it different for the different types of yeast nutrients?
I've not had a problem with under pitching yeast so far but I'm aware that it is a potential issue so will always buy extra packs for the stronger ales. Just making extract kits atm but biab seems to be the method i would move onto, i don't have space for lots of equipment so one biiig pan and a few bits looks the way to go.
A lot of us start out with extract brewing and that usually means partial volume boils in the beginning. Stepping up from partial to full volume boil has a noticeable impact on hops utilization and less caramelized flavor. Late boil extract additions also help. And switching from LME to all DME makes for lighter beer color. If we can make big improvements while still in the early extract part of our journey then it becomes a more enjoyable hobby. At my suggestion, a friend of mine made these tweaks by splitting his batches in half (instead of buying a larger pot) and decided he was happy enough to just continue with extracts indefinitely for shorter, easier brew days.
Great thoughts I agree! I think starting out it should be fun and easy brew days. No need to complicate things too much early on. Just get to brewing and then eventually you can upgrade/make improvements as you go. Thanks!
@@TheBruSho the szechuan button has an interesting effect if eaten they can make the mouth go numb and enhances the taste of what ever food that comes after it
@@TheBruSho I've had faster fermentations when I make a starter from dry yeast and a bit of the liquor from the mash (like 2 cups-ish). A few hours go by, the starter is bubbling, and initial fermentation seems to be much more robust.
Does yeast nutrient offset doing a starter for IPA’s above 1.050 OG ??? Got a 10G SPLATCH using KVIEK ( spiedel fermenter ) and S05. (All rounder @ 15 psi) Forgot to do a starter on both (1.069 OG). Too late to fix either ???
As usual, great video Trent! When you're recording, what frame rate do you have your camera (the one you use for slow mo) set to? I need these CRISPY slow mo clips
so I did a dry stout brew kit. first few days of ferment were great, but on day 10 and don't see much activity in the airlock. is this a problem? ferment temp at 69 in a closet
@@TheBruSho Is there an advantage of using yeast slurries? I've never seen anything suggesting that there is a problem with dry yeast, and it seems much simpler.
I feel like the tip given for Yeast starter isnt a "you can do this right now" as you need DME. I think the better methode there is just to have used a sampling of the brewed beer for the yeast starter. That way you'll also not stress out the yeast by adding them from one enviroment to a completly diffrent one when you finally pitch it As for the "Disclaimer" for oxygen, i've never had a problem with it at all in the 8-12 brews i've done so far. Never have i ended up with a brew that tasted similear (off or not) So i feel like this is problem something to do with whats In the air more so than the air itself.
You can either open and close it quickly or there are some clever ways to minimize oxidation using magnets or co2. I was just more meaning don’t open it unless you really have to
I've been brewing for about a year now and follow all these steps. Sanitise, great water adjustments and perfect temp control but I still get this cidery flavour every now and then. I bottle age it and it goes away but I can't fix it. Please help?
To improve homebrew, which is distillers beer, the brewing method has to be scrapped for the brewing method that produces ale and lager. After that, the sciencee stuff that homebrews believe they understand will actually do what they are supposed to do.
This is not the video I'm after, I'm after a video from the 80s or 90s where it says "Don't worry relax have a homebrew" like i typed in thw search bar
It's crazy how drastic your beer flavor will change by just implementing these changes. Great video Trent!
It’s the little things that can make a big difference! Thanks!
I know this is a bit older, but my biggest tip is to buy a keg and spunding valve! They're not overly expensive, especially if you can find a used one. It's not a perfect replacement for temp control, but fermenting under pressure really helps with those "cleaner" beers. Plus you can serve directly from the keg. I ferment every batch in my keg, and on those beers where strict temp control isn't an issue (or it's cool enough to not worry), I set my spunding valve down to 1-2 PSI and the yeast produce flavor compounds as though I was fermenting with just a standard airlock. Best brewing purchase I've ever made.
This video was extremely helpful, and had some amazing tips, Thank You!!!
Great video, thanks for the tips.
Thank you for watching!
Cheers mate, Been brewing for a few months now with varying results. We have been having a lot of 40c degrees here in Australia so temp control is my main issue, I normally use wet towels and a fan and it works alright. I will skip over and check out the water chemistry video, never gave the water much thought. Being an aquarium keeper for over two decades I should already have a good bit of knowledge about water chemistry.
killer video braj!
Thank you man! 🍻
Damn Trent, beat me to the punch for the topic on this weeks video!! Looks we share a lot of the same ideas on how to quickly improve haha. Great video as usual, keep up the good work!
Haha well two perspectives is never a bad thing, guess it means we both agree on what to do to make better beer, next time lets collab!
@@TheBruSho definitely agree! Its great to have multiple perspectives, I'm always down for a collab!
You da man Trent, cheers 🍻
thanks for the video. I turned allgrain a few years ago and am hooked, but you need a dedicated area for it. It is more messy. It's cheaper. German lagers are made better with it and I would say in Canada because good beer is so expensive just go out and buy a Brewzilla or Grainfather and be done with it, add a good counterflow chiller and a conical and all temp control is built in. It will payback in 1yr easy !
With Water. I have a RO system with remineralization of electrolytes added. potassium, sodium and magnesium and its great for my ciders and hard kombucha.
I am almost at all grain and your tip on a partial mash could be just what i needed to hear. The thing is that I hear that the malt extracts taste terrible and with my ciders at 9%; the malt extracts only give me ~ 4%.. Maybe add a cup or two of dextrose to heighten that. Good Video Trey.
That's some good stuff right there!
Thank you! 🍻
These videos are so good that a ton of people are going to start homebrewing now.
That’s the hope! Thanks!
agreed!
Great video Trent & great channel. Was sent here from the HBC - New subscriber.
Thanks so much for checking out my channel and subscribing!
Very helpful video! Your channel is an amazing resource.
Thank you so much, glad I can provide some info!
Good stuff as always Trent!
Thank you Curt!
Dang I just came across your videos. 10/10. Thank you so much
Awesome glad you found it! Thanks for watching!
Great video. Cheers!
Thank you! 🍻
Thanks for the video. I agree, yeast starters can be one of the easiest ways to improve beers. It is also a great way to harvest extra yeast.
For sure! Some of those strains get better with each batch
I tried to explain a yeast starter as a viable way to double a "smack pack" in 12 hours... and the eyes went glazy. I even said, it's a small beer solution with DME, weight and all... nope... I think everyone just believes you NEED a stir plate and magnet-bar and the Erlenmeyer flask, which is just not true! It's true, you get what you get, but planning ahead I always do a starter. AND yeah... I use a magnetic plate and stir, but didn't always.
So how long can I store a started yeast
Thanks for the tips! I'm looking to get a spunding valve to ferment under pressure so that temp is not as critical. Using a Blichmann Cornical system... Love it.
You’re welcome, glad it was helpful! And that sounds like a great idea!
Really great tips! 🍺
Thank you! 🍻
I made a yeast starter with the leftover wort in my boil kettle. Better than letting it go to waste?
Great thinking!
Hi, can u make a video of cold crash and adding gelatin to clarify homebrew beer?
Yes, clarifiers and clarity in beer is on my list of videos to make!
I love the party Koffing!
Unst unst unst 😎
In your video it looked like you added your nutrients at about the same time as when you pitch the yeast. I’ve used yeast nutrient in the boil. Is it different for the different types of yeast nutrients?
I've not had a problem with under pitching yeast so far but I'm aware that it is a potential issue so will always buy extra packs for the stronger ales. Just making extract kits atm but biab seems to be the method i would move onto, i don't have space for lots of equipment so one biiig pan and a few bits looks the way to go.
Neither have I, 5.8% hoppy pales with 11g yeast no worries
I think TH-cam is broken. How else can you explain, that you have less than 10k subscribers with this incredibly good content?
Lol thank you friend!
A lot of us start out with extract brewing and that usually means partial volume boils in the beginning. Stepping up from partial to full volume boil has a noticeable impact on hops utilization and less caramelized flavor. Late boil extract additions also help. And switching from LME to all DME makes for lighter beer color.
If we can make big improvements while still in the early extract part of our journey then it becomes a more enjoyable hobby. At my suggestion, a friend of mine made these tweaks by splitting his batches in half (instead of buying a larger pot) and decided he was happy enough to just continue with extracts indefinitely for shorter, easier brew days.
Great thoughts I agree! I think starting out it should be fun and easy brew days. No need to complicate things too much early on. Just get to brewing and then eventually you can upgrade/make improvements as you go. Thanks!
Hello guys im new to homebrewing. Is their anything out their what i can use or what people use to change to taste of the larger
So opening my bucket to take SG readings is why my first batch of beer has a sweet aftertaste, interesting. Guess I have to buy a bucket with a tap.
Or, ya know, install a cheap tap/spigot.
Great tips have you tried to make a beer using szechuan buttons aka buzz buttons or can you make one
Woah I haven’t heard of this but will definitely being doing some more research. Thank you!!
@@TheBruSho the szechuan button has an interesting effect if eaten they can make the mouth go numb and enhances the taste of what ever food that comes after it
@@RubyRose42 I’m definitely going to have to check this out!
Shoutout received ! Great video Trent full of good info! Btw I was concerned that the video wasn’t coming out today haha , cheers 🍻
Haha I wouldn’t leave you hanging! Thanks for having a dope fermentation chamber!
Great Video Trent! What are your thoughts on yeast starters with dry yeast? That’s the only time I don’t make a starter but I’m really not sure why😂
Ha depends on the OG. Most of the times I don’t but if it’s a big beer I’ll do it just to give the yeast a head start
@@TheBruSho I've had faster fermentations when I make a starter from dry yeast and a bit of the liquor from the mash (like 2 cups-ish). A few hours go by, the starter is bubbling, and initial fermentation seems to be much more robust.
Does yeast nutrient offset doing a starter for IPA’s above 1.050 OG ??? Got a 10G SPLATCH using KVIEK ( spiedel fermenter ) and S05. (All rounder @ 15 psi) Forgot to do a starter on both (1.069 OG). Too late to fix either ???
As usual, great video Trent! When you're recording, what frame rate do you have your camera (the one you use for slow mo) set to? I need these CRISPY slow mo clips
Haha 60FPS for slow mo beauty!
Tips to brew better cideeeeeer!
Oooh noted! Thanks!
I am a little curious about the effect vitamin C has in preventing oxidation.
Yea me too. Might have to experiment. Also heard SMB or campden tablets can minimize oxidative effects
so I did a dry stout brew kit. first few days of ferment were great, but on day 10 and don't see much activity in the airlock. is this a problem? ferment temp at 69 in a closet
It might be done fermenting! Check the final gravity
First ever brew day; I missed my target gravity on the low end. Is there a way to fix it? Or will just have weaker beer for my first batch?
You can always add in some dry malt extract to raise the original gravity.
@@TheBruSho Thank you Trent!! Dry Malt extract mixed with water or as is?
@@chadgarrison5220 I would say boil it in some water and cool it down before adding
@@TheBruSho Thank you so much, for the help!!
Am I completely wrong in thinking that most brewers (at least those who don't have expensive stainless steel brewing set-ups) use dry yeast?
I don’t think there is a correlation. Dry yeast though is much more readily available
@@TheBruSho Is there an advantage of using yeast slurries? I've never seen anything suggesting that there is a problem with dry yeast, and it seems much simpler.
I feel like the tip given for Yeast starter isnt a "you can do this right now" as you need DME.
I think the better methode there is just to have used a sampling of the brewed beer for the yeast starter. That way you'll also not stress out the yeast by adding them from one enviroment to a completly diffrent one when you finally pitch it
As for the "Disclaimer" for oxygen, i've never had a problem with it at all in the 8-12 brews i've done so far. Never have i ended up with a brew that tasted similear (off or not) So i feel like this is problem something to do with whats In the air more so than the air itself.
Shoutout to weezing
Haha yes!! #110
But what will happen if I am dry hoping or adding some fruit to my beer, I will have to open the container?
You can either open and close it quickly or there are some clever ways to minimize oxidation using magnets or co2. I was just more meaning don’t open it unless you really have to
I've been brewing for about a year now and follow all these steps. Sanitise, great water adjustments and perfect temp control but I still get this cidery flavour every now and then. I bottle age it and it goes away but I can't fix it. Please help?
My guess would be something related to yeast health. Either fermenting too warm or not enough yeast. Could be several things though
To improve homebrew, which is distillers beer, the brewing method has to be scrapped for the brewing method that produces ale and lager. After that, the sciencee stuff that homebrews believe they understand will actually do what they are supposed to do.
Interesting, you should make some videos explaining the distillers beer vs ale/lager so more people can know
lol what?
modern yeast pack or dry sachet do not need starter anymore as long as less than 20L of anything recipe lower than 1.055
Yes that is true, one of the great parts about using dry yeast
This is not the video I'm after, I'm after a video from the 80s or 90s where it says "Don't worry relax have a homebrew" like i typed in thw search bar
Haha thanks for stopping by?
Couldn’t hear over the music
Ok noted thanks
i love pregaming!
Sometimes it’s better than the actual game ha