To Hunter Jackson (there's no reply option next to your name) Skallagrim's tutorial was one of the few I saw, There are quite a few differences in our tutorials (staining, handle thickening, fiberglass resin, strap, etc.) but it is easy to see how you've noticed similarities. Fact is though, we're both making round shields, the videos are bound to be similar lol. Thank you for your comment.
Hey Guys, I have just finished making my shields and have come up with another cheap, effective, and not bad looking, alternative to the edging problem. I went to the hardware store and bought some 'heavy duty 3/4 inch garden hose'. I then split it down the length with a sharp knife. Opening the slit I wrapped it around the edge of the shield, trimmed the meeting ends and the screwed it in place (with a few small nails around here and there to start it buckling. Then I painted it black. Sweet!! As it has that molded grainy finish it looks great, and being thick rubber with some give, it absorbs sword hits pretty well. Anyway, just thought i'd share. Give it a try.
You're supposed to brace the shield with your other fist, so it won't be pushed into your face. The advantage of that, is that you can let go easily. The shield can be used as a lever to throw you to the ground and/or break your arm. ThegnThrand channel shows this. Viking techniques are all about feeling how someone is moving your shield and reacting to that. So it's not a bad thing when you enemy moves it. That provides information.
I do HEMA, Dagorhir, SCA Heavy Combat and all sorts of other stick-hitting sports! I've made two viking roundshields without straps so far. There's a lot of neat techniques you can pull off as a result of the shield's grip alignment! For one thing, there's no reason not to just turn the shield's handle sideways when you get a strike in that direction. That's one of the reasons why it's round. Also, if you keep your weapon behind your shield until you strike, you can use it to brace against attacks designed to break your block. This is still a great shield build, and I'm going to take a few ques from it when I build my next shield! I may even incorporate the strap, so I can strap the shield to my arm, hold another shield in my hand, and have a third in my other hand. You can never be too protected.
He's on the big side, but generally historically(from what I've found), about 32-36"- www.hurstwic.org/history/articles/manufacturing/text/viking_shields.htm
The strap was not present, because you want to be able to pivot the shield. The spot you mention not a weak spot, and if you are holding the shield properly, instead of hitting you in the face, it will pivot, come into full contact with that weapon, allowing you to pin the weapon, and take counter. The rawhide is to absorb blows to the rim, as that is where you should be blocking the majority of shots. it allows the shield to last longer by making it harder to chunk the rim with a strike. 1/2" is overkill. 1/4" works fine, and is much lighter. Trust me, they hold. I do blunted steel combat, and have had the same shield for the last year, with only one small hole from a spearhead. Oiling wood is your friend. Don't seal the backside. Oil it. It will last longer.
+ZednoughtAlpha The only historical inaccuracies is the center grip should cover the entire length of the shield, and that strap. Viking round shields were center grip only. However it's a damn fine shield, and would serve you well. Some people probably brought this up but since you used plywood it's irrelevant. You are supposed to put the grip on so that it runs perpendicular to the wood grain of the shield, that prevents splitting from high force impacts. But with plywood, since the direction of the grain is stacked perpendicular to each other, it doesn't matter. (Though you could put the grip on at a 45 degree angle to the grain and strengthen it in that direction. Lastly Vikings mostly used linen for their shield's covering, but canvice was also used and generally strengthened with tree resins and glues. As for the real ones not having the strap, the way you sue a center grip shield is you brace it with your weapon hand to take a heavy hit, and you always hold it awayfrom you and at an angle to try to deflect rather than stop.
I know and respect how long it takes to make videos. You can't rush them or you won't enjoy yourself or you'll make a sub-par video. But the fact at how entertaining these videos are make them go by really quick.
10:25 Well, that's sort of what the Norsemen were going for. The shield moves You move, think of it as another weapon in your hand rather than a shield, as for it hitting you, that's just more of a "don't be an idiot" kind of thing lol. great vid man.
Also, the weakness he was talking about is not a big deal if you are using the shield correctly. In fact, it can be used to redirect the attack and close with the opponent.
I assume the only reason to use the strap is if you are in the front of your army holding the line while people behind you have spears to attack. The Romans didn't use the strap, i'd assume for their formations (testudo).
They had a strategy much like the Romans, they would create a shield wall, overlapping their shield together to keep them sturdy against eachother to keep them in place.
The arm strap makes my arm hurt by looking at it just because that's not the way the viking round shield was used, but nonetheless it's very well made. I'm very impressed! Great job!
I liked the fact you put the strap on the shield to keep it from tabling. I use to do heavy combat fighting in the SCA, doing a Viking persona. Also I love all your weapon making videos.
I just started mine yesterday and almost finished it, looking forward to getting back to it tonight - instead of an actual boss I nailed on a stainless steel dish, I skipped the fabric on the face of the shield to expose the wood grain and had a different handle configuration with more support because I used floor boards rather than plywood for a nicer wood grain look and I can't wait to get it done! I'm a fairly new subscriber and often look to you for inspiration for my builds I just turned 18 and now have access to power tools so keep the videos coming!
Dude this is one of the most amazing low tech (comparatively) shields I've seen. I might make one with studs on it and a brass band around the edge. Not because its a soft metal that helps with sword blows, but because it looks awesome.
Great job on the aesthetic part of this build! It doesn't have that tacti-cool look that I've grown bored of over time. I personally would have done a rawhide wrap, but I see where you are coming from. As to the centergrip vs. strap idea, I think you came up with a unique compromise that will give you more versatility in the long run.
That turned out stunning! I’m planning on doing one myself soon so have been doing a bit of research. Tho in my research, I have found that even a lot of ‘experts’ say things that just don’t make sense to anyone that’s actually used one. Combining the two gives a lot more insight. Yes I’m going to talk about the centre grip lol! The reason Viking shields only had a centre grip and no arm strap is due to the fact they used it differently from how your thinking they did - simple point if it don’t work for you and it did them there’s something a miss. Viking shields have little to do with stopping damage, its about redirecting it. Freely moving means the force of the hit bends the shield around you, protecting you and sending the attack past you (witch could put the opponent into bad footing opening up your change to attack with the sword). Most effective in one on one combat. To use the shield effectively you would sometimes attack with it, your sword held behind keeping you protected and possibly giving you two hands of force behind the shield thrust (that was more rim on not with the boss). Thus why Viking swords do not have much of a guard, preventing them getting hooked up on their shields. Everything is shield, your swords just this second weapon you use if an opening pops up. If your shield hits your face then your using the wrong stance for it, I mean if that was an issue why was the design not corrected. The rims were also easily damageable to a sharp blade and an opponent’s sword can easily cut in and get stuck, hence possibly a reason why they used hide rather than metal on the rim in battle. This would also add to their fierce looking appearance as that do battle with what looks like a useless easily breakable shield! (speculation). Lastly, the bash. Although you could bash someone with the shield boss, who in there right mind would? Simply, it’s short range, often easy to avoid and opens you up to attack in many places. Unless you’re opponent has already lost there footing or has dropped there sword, it wouldn’t be a very useful tactic and even then more effective to use your sword staying protected behind your shield. If you were to bash your do better using the rim where you could actually punch with the thing. But that’s history, they never had fibreglass back then ether lol! Its a very nice shield ether way and improvising with the boss turned out really effective! So much so I may even try for a similar effect having seen it! But yes.. hopefully that little bite of info will give some more insight on how to use a centre grip shield. Hope that was helpful.
you would die in combat if you used this shield. Viking Shields where a lot thicker and heavier. shields where also meant to be disposable because in real combat they would all break in prolonged combat. (actual warrior, US Marine, Iv studied combat and military history for years, its part of my job)
They don't have a strap because viking shields didn't have straps. Straps were only used for cavalry shields, and the vikings didn't fight on horseback.
I put a leather strap on the back of a round shield I made, but it was a much smaller Scottish shield. One thing a strap will get in the way of, is forming a shield wall. If you are doing one-on-one combat, no problem. Not many of us have to cope with arrow showers. I put a brass strip on the edge of my Scottish shield, and it looks AWESOME. No chew toys for me.
Internet warrior here so bare that in mind. Ok we got that outta the way, so I just wanted to say that most shields didn't have a leather strap (historically) with those having one being mostly cavalery shields. If you want more info search pros and cons of shields, but basicly the shield turning sideways isn't a problem couse you wouldn't want it to take the full force of the hit anyway. What you would want to do is instead allow the shield to move so the force isn't transfered to your arm and the hit would glance off to your side. Furthermore viking swords had their guard and pommel flat and equally pretruding from the grip so you could use them as a stabilizer if you needed that sort of thing. One last thing if your shield breaks you would want to ditch it, which is a lot harder with a strap on. Ofcourse there are pros to the strap aswell. Anyways this is the best looking homemade viking shield i've seen on youtube :)
lies eli...lies i tested a viking shield of my own made according to your video and it did indeed hold up against minor blows from hammers and other melee weapons but when i tested it with a 9mm pistol it did not "hold up to anything you can throw at it" i even dialed it down to a .22 round and it still went through. youre lucky i tested it before i took it with me to 'nam for the war, i would have been shot and killed for sure! (extreme sarcasm detected!)
Great timing, I was just looking into different pieces for a Solaire of Astora cosplay, and couldn't find a shield quite big enough. This would definitely fit the bill. Keep doing what you're doing, man, I love your style and content.
The reason there is no strap on a true Skjoldr is because it was part of the fighting technique. The weak point that you mention was actually used as a strength. It allowed the striking blows to hit the shield and then veer off to one side or the other. The method was used to cause your enemies to over swing as well as prevent damage to the shield. A hit that glances off the shield will hurt the shield far less than a direct blow. Thus, the shield lasted longer in a long battle as it was rare a fight was one on one as apposed to a full out battle.
very nice looking shield. the straps is an interesting idea I can see how it can be helpful in a one to one fight. However in a shield wall, the weakness of the shield will be cover by your neighbor's shield and the strap limits the range of motion of the shield and the reach of the shield. I do love the look of your shield and enjoy watching you work. thank you for sharing.
I have a tip for cutting circles. Pull a table up next to a band saw then drill a screw into the center of the wood and spin it so that the band saw cuts the same amount of of every side.
The weakness you speak of where the shield can be rotated is actually something that can not only be turned against you but be used in fighting. Enemy makes a poor movement or stumbles while attacking your weapon side you can rotate your shield like opening a door and strike at him in turn where his attack will fall on your shield he is going out of the fight. Also if you come up against an opponet like you said weilding a spear or god forbid a heavier weapon like a hammer or a dane axe you are going to end up with a broken arm if it dosent break your shield first; primarily because then you are forced to rotate with the shield if you are hit hard enough in the right way. That is why you don't see straps on shields is because it was part of the fighting style to be able to rotate the shield. Technique and technicality aside though a very nice product in the end and a good modern reproduction with a nice modern twist here and there. Great job!
I've used shields at work (prison officer), modern shields all have a strap and a handle. Great for when you are charged as it gives you a lot better chance of deflecting the charging idjut! The shield is also a weapon in itself and is much more effective with the strap and handle. Nice looking shield you have made! Wll done.
Awesome tutorial dude, will do. On the handle style, to be historical, the shield was held at an angle in order to make the known weakness equalized and for using the side of the shield to punch. Just thought you'd find that interesting, awesome video bro.
so I don't know if this has been already said, but the historically accurate way vikings used their shields was: they held it on the side of their body, not facing the attacker, because the wooden part could not take a beating, but most had a metal ring on the outside, which could take a beating. they would thrust this at the incoming blade to parry it with the sheild. it's really cool to watch, and that's why they didn't have the strap, because the weak point you mentioned was never really a problem
There's actually no archaeological evidence suggesting a metal rim as opposed to a rawhide or leather rim. There is although evidence for other cultures with round shields hat metal rims. According to some of the old Norse sagas, iron was not used for the rims as it was VERY expensive, as they made it from ore collected from bogs(look up "bog iron" if you haven't heard of it), and the rawhide was also preferred as it would still allow an enemy's blade to sink into the shield, which gives you control over your opponent's blade. The rawhide would also shrink, as it was applied wet, tightening the bond between the many boards that make up the body of the shield.
The reason that all those other youtubers made their shields without an arm strap is because, historically speaking, Vikings never made their shields with them. However I can understand the appeal of having them. Great video btw.
Also thankyou for giving the leather workers some much deserved heat. They talk a big game, but your armor can usually survive jumping a pool, a suit of leather cannot. Soaked dog's chew toy indeed. props
Not bad, not bad at all. I would have made a secondary grip point for the "Heater" strapping but other than that it looks great. I hope you keep making things like this.
I think I just watched half of your vids they are high quality and I'm quite tempted to try these projects so I seem like bully badass in the zombie apoca
Eli, you should try to make some kind of Eastern-inspired weapon, katana, nagamaki, a sweet samurai helm. Since Japanese stuff of that nature is usually very ornate I figure you would have fun building something like that.
Just had a thought: that's a neat trick to make a circle, but if for some reason you can't do that, I figured I'd share a different option. If you go from the center for and draw a straight line across the whole diameter, then add a perpendicular line, and keep adding as many lines as you need, eventually you can more or less freehand a circle by connecting the tips of the asterisk.
Eli, just to put things in historic perspective: the reason for the canvas cover on original Viking shields is to cover the direction of the planks. Back in those days, the shields were made out of planks that were bound together somehow, but still a cut that was perpendicular to those planks could be stopped, whereas a cut parallel to those planks would have a higher possibility to break the shield along the edge of the plank. The purpose of the canvas is to disguise the direction of the planks, and make it harder for your opponent to figure out the easiest way to destroy your shield.
I like this, I used a similar cloth cover on my wooden riot shield (based in the same style as your street sign one) I covered the wooden panels with this and then bordered them with angled steel on the edges. Good video and I really like the finished product. Shame everything in America is so much cheaper than here in the UK though, I would do a lot more like your products if I could afford it but I definitely like to watch your projects.
I am very impressed by your knowledge in cabinent making. Its very reashuring to see. Your shield is very well made. Im currently working on an almost 100% authentic one myself ( i dont have my blacksmith forge yet so hardware is not period correct).
Really its the tools used more than anything else that people could consider "historically inaccurate". The finished products, sans leather strap, is a fairly faithful recreation of this type of shield. Despite the fact that normally a Viking shield doesn't have a leather strap, its actually understandable why someone would want to add one; not only does it help secure the shield better, it also helps to distribute the weight so that its not all resting on your hand and wrist. As a side note, I believe that rim of the shield being either wrapped in leather/hide or capped with metal was done primarily to help further bolster the structural integrity of the rim so that it was less likely to split.
Shield's progressed over the years, some later shields did have straps, and over the shoulder straps for carrying on marches the cloth covering was to help an attacker knowing which way the grain on the wood ran, so making it more difficult to split the wood, also and edge of metal or thick leather would hide the edge grain, all in all he's done a pretty good job, by the way 'black shields' were for novices.
Another awesome video Dude. I have been watching some of your stuff for a while and am currently making a couple of my own Viking shields. One point on getting smashed in the face though Mate. Historically this is the reason for the shape of the helmets used in conjunction with big shields such as the Greeks, Romans and Vikings. All of these helmets have either cheek, nose, or in the case of Vikings, the 'goggle' piece. This is exactly to protect your face from the shield hitting you when its struck. Few people understand this, especially about the Ancient Greeks, where the Greaves, Vambraces and Helmet were to protect yourself from your own shield as much as they were, if not more so, from your opponents strikes. Just a little historical info for you. Fantastic work though, been thinking about wood glue and canvas, but I think I will go with resin. Thanks
The shield is beautiful in appearance, and an excellent barrier shield. But, Viking shields weren't really made to be barrier shield, but rather as a blocking shield. This would actually be really difficult to use in combat that simulated viking style combat, because of several factors. We build accurate looking but historically inaccurate shields as well for the fighting we do. First the weight is too high, a viking shield needs to be presented forward and moved with the sword to protect the sword hand and arm. In some ways, like a buckler moves. We know this for two reasons, Vikings didn't wear arm protection and there was very little cross guard on Viking swords until the very end of the age. Also, arm straps were not used for a really good reason. That allowed the shield to absorb impact by pivoting and allowed you to make strikes from the shield side without having to reach in front of the shield. A properly weighted shield can be used to trap the weapon at this point. Also, there are no historic or literary references to anyone using a hammer in the Viking age except Thor in the Eddas. Hammers in the wars of us non-godly types are a product of trying to stop heavy armor. The raised boss is interesting, and should increase your ability to trap weapons, but it will wear quickly, and is not a look that fits any viking age shield finds. Deeper boss, like they sell on Amazon might be a better choice. Shield strikes were also not with the boss, but with the shield rim. When you look at the archaeological evidence, there are many with a line break on their faces that come from getting struck with an object that is the same width as a shield rim. The rim gives you reach. You really don't need that many screws, You would be better off with carriage bolts, but without metal cutting stuff, I understand why you used them. Final note, it needs a rim. A rim of 1" rawhide strips sewn through holes on the edge will greatly improve the shields life. Strikes on the edge will break it down quickly, even at 1/2". An actual Viking shield was, about 8mm at the boss and shaved down to 4mm at the rim. When we build ours, we us 6mm (1/4") Baltic Birch cabinet grade plywood from a cabinet shop (more expensive) or commercial lumberyard (less expensive). We typically find the sheets for around $15 for a 5x5 sheet. We usually put a layer of glue and linen, and we have been experimenting with truck bed liner spray because it gives similar protection to the linen, is a similar look, and seems to last longer. Good effort though! It does look really nice.
So, I'd like to say that your shield looks great, and it looks like a solid build. I have a "historically accurate viking shield" and what you made would be a lot stronger since mine is suppose to catch and break swords. A viking round would be perfect for a zombie apocalypse, but the strap would limit your use of the shield. There are a few videos and explanations of how to properly use a viking shield, but there are lots of reasons for flat and edge use with the shield. It looks pretty awesome. Good job! Oh, and the weakness to the shield you are referencing is covered by some of these videos. The idea is to let the weapon strike, let the shield turn, push past and come around to the back of your opponent, using the shield like a door to deflect the force of the blow instead of blocking it.
seeing the finished product, it looks like you took an old table, added a handle and center metal bulge thing, and called it a shield, haha. good build though
***** i'm not commenting that it doesn't look like a shield, i was saying it looks so nice with the dark staining finish that it looks like he took it from a piece of furniture
Not knocking your shield, it came out awesome. Just wanted to clarify some points, especially for those who might be confused in the comments section. The reason many Viking reenactors, and living history folk who practice Early Medieval martial techniques, use things like wood glue and linen instead of fiberglass is for historical accuracy and money. Historically, Viking shields were "chamfered" which means they were thicker in the middle, and thinner at the edge to provide alot more protection near the hand but still be lighter out at the edge. To strengthen a shield like this, Vikings would use cloth and a glue made from dairy byproducts, or just face the shield with rawhide. Also, using rawhide around the edge of a shield helps to keep the wood from splitting. Though reenactment blades are thick and dull, they are still only a few millimeters wide, and can cut through and exposed edge, not something you want happening if reenacting is just a hobby.
Also, sleeves or straps used on shields are awesome when you're fighting in a column-like formation, and need the leverage to create a strong barrier or wall just like you said. This was common in militaries like Greek hoplite infantry fighting in phalanx formations. But for Vikings, having a center grip shield allowed for the shield to pivot like a door on a hinge. The very danger of having the shield knocked into your face is possible, but highly unlikely for a well trained combatant, especially one paying attention. Allowing to receive the blow, and letting the shield pivot, you can actually then use the rotated shield to simultaneously protect your flank, and to keep engaged pressure on the enemy's weapon as you reach with your weapon hand OVER your shield hand, and strike to your opponents weapon side, one that is now open and too occupied to defend. If you're at all interested in these kinds of neat counter attacks, check out Roland Warzecha (spelling?) He's great.
+ZNA Productions nice shield bud. oak is brutally heavy. ive done SCA fighting for 2 years now myself (and fight with axe and shield) the one handed Grip isnt weak at all. you dont hold the shield against yourself (just like howna soccer goalie doesnt just stand on the line.) by holding your shield a bit out and away from your body, you decrease the strike area available to your opponent. when the shifts from an opponents strike, the one handed grip deflects the attack. remember that striking with a sword or Axe isnt what hollywood shows you. anyways, wicked build, Love your channel, keep up the awesome work Broheim.
Stikkman - Stop Motion is definitely the best build song you need it more Eli, and I'm guessing you have seen Skallagrim's viking shield which looked fine till the doggie rawhide chew was added to the edge so well done on keeping the shield looking sexy !!!
Heyo as long as the canvas had some give and is flexible it will serve a purpose. Wood is hard and great but with their method of combat, a little bit of flexible cloth or something would help to absorb the impact while doing little damage to the shield itself, which is why it was common to see loose hide and leather draped over the side of Norse (I think it was Norse) ships. It would keep the arrows from biting into the wood. So long story short good call and great video.
+Venixx "Viking" shields or Norman Infantry shields could and sometimes did have straps. Nothing said they couldn't. Wood shields were relatively weak unless wrapped in hide and set to dry. Then they would be heavy and much more expensive.
+MageryGuy they didn't, for more information check the ThegnThrand channel. They give excellent information for people who are interested in viking combat and history.
+Venixx I'll stick with what my degree in medevial history, 4+ years of research on the influence of Norman tech and trade, 20 years of medevial preservation, and my professor of medevial history Dane Johns at Boise state. Thanks.
the strap is a disadvantage because your arm can get dislocated easily by having the shield twisted. The vikings used the pommels of their swords as sort of an extra "handle" to support their shields.
In the U.S., you should use 1/2" shagbark hickory if you want a strong shield. with a 32" diameter, it should weight about 12lbs, while offering excelent protection. Splitting is prevented by covering the whole shield in boiled raw hide. The resin you used seems like a good idea too. Overall, yours turned out very nice looking, and I'd rather be behind it that the one fro skall. However, having a wide availability for a wood as tough as sharbark hickory, I'm convinced it would be the best possible option.
the manuverability disapears and sharp objects can penetrate the arm. and the boss is for protecting the hand you never punch with the boss you punch with the shield rim
Feffnirsbane In ceratin situations, the fact that the shield is attached to your arm is very good thing. But having a shield boss and a strap in a bit moronic, the boss doesn't protect your hand that way and just adds wieght
The boss is for protection of the finger and allows for better control of the shields when not strapped in (look boss shielded should be) If is not for arrow protection, people standing several yards or a hundred yards from typically don't aim for such a mall fast moving target as your hands*
Yes, I do SCA fighting, There are accounts stating that the shield bosses is for protection of the fingers against blades, axes, javelins, rocks and the like, sepcifically protection of the fingers, when held without a strap.
Love your stuff man, just thought id point out that the arm strap you've put in actually defeats the entire purpose of the centre grip behind the boss. You lose the utility of the centre grip when you strap yourself in, so at that point might as well have 2 straps
+Narcoticks It re-defines rather than defeats the purpose. The original thinking behind no-strap viking shields was to use the energy of the incoming attack and let it deflect by allowing the shield to pivot. This requires some unorthodox stances to pivot and attack countering a "far-right" blow. In this case, the shield becomes more of a "standard" shield, and no re-position/pivoting action would be done. Again, it's a flavour preference and up to you depending on how you're used to S/S fighting.
That's what shield walls were for. You would put the least secure part of the shield over the person to your right's shield. They would keep your shield arm strong the same as you would keep the person to your left strong.
The main disadvantage to strap shields is that if someone were to grab the shield edge and twist it, then you cant avoid your opponent manipulating you as easily as you could with an unstrapped shield (by dropping it), and it may cause you pain if the opponent is strong enough. There are a lot of advantages and disadvantages to either type, strapped or not. However, with this variant you do have the option to choose either, so I feel like this would be optimal.
I wouldn't think so with such a solid strap. Point is, the main advantage to a strap is also the main disadvantage; you can't let go as easily/its harder to wrench the shield out of your grip.
Karim Adham Another issue with the strap, which is specific to viking shields and swords, is that a lot of the techniques require fighting around the perimeter of the shield, which is why the crossguards are so short (no need for protection if your hand is always behind your shield) and the strap cuts out about half of your lines of attack by making it impossible to strike from that side of the shield (at least not without really tying up your arms). It really depends on the type of shield and how it is meant to be used, but outside of a few exceptions (like roman shields), the strap didn't really become a thing unless the shield was used primarily on horseback.
Good looking shield. Some different construction methods I've not seen before, but not unwelcome. Just different (fiberglass resin, not a bad idea). Others have said this, but I think I can help articulate it a little better. The reason for using rawhide on the edge isn't just about helping prevent the edge from fraying/splintering apart. Rawhide tends to be thick, and surprisingly (even once hardened) absorptive of blows to the edge. Your canvas, while tough, won't absorb blows as well because of how thin it is. Because of this, while it won't rip/fray very easily, the wood fibres of the plywood will still penetrate the fabric with relative ease under a heavy blow. Now, I've not been fighting in the SCA long, but I've been paying attention, and I've never seen a fighting shield without some sort of edge banding. A common construction method I have seen on center grip round shields is to use 1/2"-3/4" cotton rope, wrap it around the edge of the shield and hold in place with sinew, and then to wrap rawhide around that as well. The cotton rope does an excellent job of absorbing the blunt blows of our weapons, and the rawhide lasts longer than the shield if properly attached. This way, blunt blows don't splinter the hell out of our shield edges, and I'm pretty sure it would stand up better to an edged weapon than just canvas. Just a suggestion/insight on shield banding and it's purpose. Also, for good looking rawhide banding... I recommend getting something better and easier to work with than chew toys.
You should take a look at impact drivers ,i know this was made 2 years ago but if You still dont have one and You can aford it, it helps with prevent splitting
hey thank you i have made one looks amazing but i wanted to do the metal trimming i know this is alot to ask but it would be awesome for you to show how to do metal around the sides for those who want to use meta on a higher budget
About the strap thing: If you rotate the shield 90 degrees (so the thumb points forwards), it is much easier to counter the spear (or whatever) that hits on the left side (your left). Btw, the thumb should not go around the handle, but go up and lay on the side of the handle, pointing up.
if you used the scrap pieces of ply, and started at one corner, and ended at the diagonal and drew a line about middle and do that for both diagonals it has the perfect center
bro... what you need to do is do mock battles and like capture the flag with some of these weapons and armour sets and make vids on that... i think that would be an awesome series!!!!
To Hunter Jackson (there's no reply option next to your name)
Skallagrim's tutorial was one of the few I saw, There are quite a few differences in our tutorials (staining, handle thickening, fiberglass resin, strap, etc.) but it is easy to see how you've noticed similarities. Fact is though, we're both making round shields, the videos are bound to be similar lol. Thank you for your comment.
field test's?
:D
Use "+" and then the user's name. It will tag them and notify them Nonlethalbychoice of the message.
Kalzone_kat thx m8
bailey reynolds I have absolutely no idea how this helped you...
Skallagrim is an amazing TH-camr too, good taste ;)
But does it block emotional damage?
Or mean words? I think not.
+Dr What98 how weak are you? that just a mere word hurts your heart
+MrRoboticeyes Do you know what a joke is? You should look it up :)
do you know what a meme is? You should look it up ;)
+MrRoboticeyes Glad to see that you're making sense today...
Hey Guys, I have just finished making my shields and have come up with another cheap, effective, and not bad looking, alternative to the edging problem. I went to the hardware store and bought some 'heavy duty 3/4 inch garden hose'. I then split it down the length with a sharp knife. Opening the slit I wrapped it around the edge of the shield, trimmed the meeting ends and the screwed it in place (with a few small nails around here and there to start it buckling. Then I painted it black. Sweet!! As it has that molded grainy finish it looks great, and being thick rubber with some give, it absorbs sword hits pretty well. Anyway, just thought i'd share. Give it a try.
Kyle .Rowling try heater hose frim the auto parts store its much thicker and takes a blow way better than garden hose
you could just buy a cuople of rawhide dogchews soak them in water and sew the strips on
You're supposed to brace the shield with your other fist, so it won't be pushed into your face. The advantage of that, is that you can let go easily. The shield can be used as a lever to throw you to the ground and/or break your arm. ThegnThrand channel shows this. Viking techniques are all about feeling how someone is moving your shield and reacting to that. So it's not a bad thing when you enemy moves it. That provides information.
I do HEMA, Dagorhir, SCA Heavy Combat and all sorts of other stick-hitting sports! I've made two viking roundshields without straps so far. There's a lot of neat techniques you can pull off as a result of the shield's grip alignment!
For one thing, there's no reason not to just turn the shield's handle sideways when you get a strike in that direction. That's one of the reasons why it's round. Also, if you keep your weapon behind your shield until you strike, you can use it to brace against attacks designed to break your block.
This is still a great shield build, and I'm going to take a few ques from it when I build my next shield! I may even incorporate the strap, so I can strap the shield to my arm, hold another shield in my hand, and have a third in my other hand.
You can never be too protected.
Pardon me sir but I believe you're carrying a fucking table on your arm
Luke Riley lolol
Luke Riley lol
True, he made the diameter a few inches too big
He's on the big side, but generally historically(from what I've found), about 32-36"- www.hurstwic.org/history/articles/manufacturing/text/viking_shields.htm
lol
The strap was not present, because you want to be able to pivot the shield.
The spot you mention not a weak spot, and if you are holding the shield properly, instead of hitting you in the face, it will pivot, come into full contact with that weapon, allowing you to pin the weapon, and take counter.
The rawhide is to absorb blows to the rim, as that is where you should be blocking the majority of shots. it allows the shield to last longer by making it harder to chunk the rim with a strike.
1/2" is overkill. 1/4" works fine, and is much lighter. Trust me, they hold. I do blunted steel combat, and have had the same shield for the last year, with only one small hole from a spearhead.
Oiling wood is your friend. Don't seal the backside. Oil it. It will last longer.
+ZednoughtAlpha The only historical inaccuracies is the center grip should cover the entire length of the shield, and that strap. Viking round shields were center grip only. However it's a damn fine shield, and would serve you well.
Some people probably brought this up but since you used plywood it's irrelevant. You are supposed to put the grip on so that it runs perpendicular to the wood grain of the shield, that prevents splitting from high force impacts. But with plywood, since the direction of the grain is stacked perpendicular to each other, it doesn't matter. (Though you could put the grip on at a 45 degree angle to the grain and strengthen it in that direction.
Lastly Vikings mostly used linen for their shield's covering, but canvice was also used and generally strengthened with tree resins and glues.
As for the real ones not having the strap, the way you sue a center grip shield is you brace it with your weapon hand to take a heavy hit, and you always hold it awayfrom you and at an angle to try to deflect rather than stop.
There is also the risk of something punching through the shield and pinning it to your arm with a strap. It's much safer to have a grip only shield.
I have an utterly ridiculous request.
Weaponizing a freakin Pringles can. By any means necessary.
***** documentation or it didn't happen
***** Oh damn. Was? What happened to him?
***** I was expecting something much funnier
put screws & gunpowder in one and blow it up :)
Linklgas have you ever been to Boston
I know and respect how long it takes to make videos. You can't rush them or you won't enjoy yourself or you'll make a sub-par video. But the fact at how entertaining these videos are make them go by really quick.
10:25 Well, that's sort of what the Norsemen were going for. The shield moves You move, think of it as another weapon in your hand rather than a shield, as for it hitting you, that's just more of a "don't be an idiot" kind of thing lol. great vid man.
The strap is absent on real viking shields because the give that your hand supplies will increase the longevity of the shield.
Also, the weakness he was talking about is not a big deal if you are using the shield correctly. In fact, it can be used to redirect the attack and close with the opponent.
I assume the only reason to use the strap is if you are in the front of your army holding the line while people behind you have spears to attack. The Romans didn't use the strap, i'd assume for their formations (testudo).
They had a strategy much like the Romans, they would create a shield wall, overlapping their shield together to keep them sturdy against eachother to keep them in place.
NEEEERD
jk
The arm strap makes my arm hurt by looking at it just because that's not the way the viking round shield was used, but nonetheless it's very well made. I'm very impressed! Great job!
Great video dude. I like how the shield turned out but it was the detail in your explanations that really stands out.
I liked the fact you put the strap on the shield to keep it from tabling. I use to do heavy combat fighting in the SCA, doing a Viking persona. Also I love all your weapon making videos.
Lol coming back and watching this, I'd forgotten how much I've actually learned from you. Things I use very often.
I just started mine yesterday and almost finished it, looking forward to getting back to it tonight - instead of an actual boss I nailed on a stainless steel dish, I skipped the fabric on the face of the shield to expose the wood grain and had a different handle configuration with more support because I used floor boards rather than plywood for a nicer wood grain look and I can't wait to get it done! I'm a fairly new subscriber and often look to you for inspiration for my builds I just turned 18 and now have access to power tools so keep the videos coming!
Dude this is one of the most amazing low tech (comparatively) shields I've seen. I might make one with studs on it and a brass band around the edge. Not because its a soft metal that helps with sword blows, but because it looks awesome.
Great job on the aesthetic part of this build! It doesn't have that tacti-cool look that I've grown bored of over time. I personally would have done a rawhide wrap, but I see where you are coming from.
As to the centergrip vs. strap idea, I think you came up with a unique compromise that will give you more versatility in the long run.
That turned out stunning! I’m planning on doing one myself soon so have been doing a bit of research. Tho in my research, I have found that even a lot of ‘experts’ say things that just don’t make sense to anyone that’s actually used one. Combining the two gives a lot more insight.
Yes I’m going to talk about the centre grip lol!
The reason Viking shields only had a centre grip and no arm strap is due to the fact they used it differently from how your thinking they did - simple point if it don’t work for you and it did them there’s something a miss.
Viking shields have little to do with stopping damage, its about redirecting it. Freely moving means the force of the hit bends the shield around you, protecting you and sending the attack past you (witch could put the opponent into bad footing opening up your change to attack with the sword). Most effective in one on one combat.
To use the shield effectively you would sometimes attack with it, your sword held behind keeping you protected and possibly giving you two hands of force behind the shield thrust (that was more rim on not with the boss). Thus why Viking swords do not have much of a guard, preventing them getting hooked up on their shields. Everything is shield, your swords just this second weapon you use if an opening pops up. If your shield hits your face then your using the wrong stance for it, I mean if that was an issue why was the design not corrected. The rims were also easily damageable to a sharp blade and an opponent’s sword can easily cut in and get stuck, hence possibly a reason why they used hide rather than metal on the rim in battle. This would also add to their fierce looking appearance as that do battle with what looks like a useless easily breakable shield! (speculation).
Lastly, the bash. Although you could bash someone with the shield boss, who in there right mind would? Simply, it’s short range, often easy to avoid and opens you up to attack in many places. Unless you’re opponent has already lost there footing or has dropped there sword, it wouldn’t be a very useful tactic and even then more effective to use your sword staying protected behind your shield. If you were to bash your do better using the rim where you could actually punch with the thing.
But that’s history, they never had fibreglass back then ether lol! Its a very nice shield ether way and improvising with the boss turned out really effective! So much so I may even try for a similar effect having seen it!
But yes.. hopefully that little bite of info will give some more insight on how to use a centre grip shield.
Hope that was helpful.
Stikkman - Stopmotion is your theme song Nonlethal. Its actually a big thing of what got me watching your videos!
Your design looks very solid, and I would use it in combat. (Certified viking combat enthusiast here)
Michael O'Neill Thanks man.
+The Last Hakkapeliitta Of Breitenfeld yeah there isnt supposed to be a strap to hold your arm
+Buk Lau lol the fiber glass ressen and strap
you would die in combat if you used this shield. Viking Shields where a lot thicker and heavier. shields where also meant to be disposable because in real combat they would all break in prolonged combat. (actual warrior, US Marine, Iv studied combat and military history for years, its part of my job)
the average viking shield were between 0,6mm and 1,2mm because otherwise it would become too heavy (viking reenactor through 10 years )
They don't have a strap because viking shields didn't have straps. Straps were only used for cavalry shields, and the vikings didn't fight on horseback.
I put a leather strap on the back of a round shield I made, but it was a much smaller Scottish shield. One thing a strap will get in the way of, is forming a shield wall.
If you are doing one-on-one combat, no problem. Not many of us have to cope with arrow showers.
I put a brass strip on the edge of my Scottish shield, and it looks AWESOME. No chew toys for me.
Cool sheild, the excess wood glue on gluing fabric to a viking round sheild and then coating it in lacquer is to make it also a flotation device.
Internet warrior here so bare that in mind. Ok we got that outta the way, so I just wanted to say that most shields didn't have a leather strap (historically) with those having one being mostly cavalery shields. If you want more info search pros and cons of shields, but basicly the shield turning sideways isn't a problem couse you wouldn't want it to take the full force of the hit anyway. What you would want to do is instead allow the shield to move so the force isn't transfered to your arm and the hit would glance off to your side. Furthermore viking swords had their guard and pommel flat and equally pretruding from the grip so you could use them as a stabilizer if you needed that sort of thing. One last thing if your shield breaks you would want to ditch it, which is a lot harder with a strap on. Ofcourse there are pros to the strap aswell. Anyways this is the best looking homemade viking shield i've seen on youtube :)
lies eli...lies
i tested a viking shield of my own made according to your video and it did indeed hold up against minor blows from hammers and other melee weapons but when i tested it with a 9mm pistol it did not "hold up to anything you can throw at it"
i even dialed it down to a .22 round and it still went through.
youre lucky i tested it before i took it with me to 'nam for the war, i would have been shot and killed for sure!
(extreme sarcasm detected!)
Noooooooooo!!!
Not The SARCASIM!!!
No u didnt u liar your just saying tht u liar
+AxE Awakened well no shit
if i shoot, is it the same as to throw? xD
dude?! how do you defend against Vikings with .22's coming at you then? that was a Viking weapon of choice. da heck Eli?
Great timing, I was just looking into different pieces for a Solaire of Astora cosplay, and couldn't find a shield quite big enough. This would definitely fit the bill.
Keep doing what you're doing, man, I love your style and content.
That's almost the size of a Greek hoplon shield, impressive build. Love your weapons bro keep them coming!
The reason there is no strap on a true Skjoldr is because it was part of the fighting technique. The weak point that you mention was actually used as a strength. It allowed the striking blows to hit the shield and then veer off to one side or the other. The method was used to cause your enemies to over swing as well as prevent damage to the shield. A hit that glances off the shield will hurt the shield far less than a direct blow. Thus, the shield lasted longer in a long battle as it was rare a fight was one on one as apposed to a full out battle.
very nice looking shield. the straps is an interesting idea I can see how it can be helpful in a one to one fight. However in a shield wall, the weakness of the shield will be cover by your neighbor's shield and the strap limits the range of motion of the shield and the reach of the shield. I do love the look of your shield and enjoy watching you work. thank you for sharing.
I have a tip for cutting circles. Pull a table up next to a band saw then drill a screw into the center of the wood and spin it so that the band saw cuts the same amount of of every side.
The weakness you speak of where the shield can be rotated is actually something that can not only be turned against you but be used in fighting. Enemy makes a poor movement or stumbles while attacking your weapon side you can rotate your shield like opening a door and strike at him in turn where his attack will fall on your shield he is going out of the fight. Also if you come up against an opponet like you said weilding a spear or god forbid a heavier weapon like a hammer or a dane axe you are going to end up with a broken arm if it dosent break your shield first; primarily because then you are forced to rotate with the shield if you are hit hard enough in the right way. That is why you don't see straps on shields is because it was part of the fighting style to be able to rotate the shield. Technique and technicality aside though a very nice product in the end and a good modern reproduction with a nice modern twist here and there. Great job!
You sir, are a modern armorsmith. Great job.
he would make a nice shields salesman in viking era.....the way he explains the pros n cons are nice
I've used shields at work (prison officer), modern shields all have a strap and a handle. Great for when you are charged as it gives you a lot better chance of deflecting the charging idjut!
The shield is also a weapon in itself and is much more effective with the strap and handle.
Nice looking shield you have made! Wll done.
Awesome tutorial dude, will do. On the handle style, to be historical, the shield was held at an angle in order to make the known weakness equalized and for using the side of the shield to punch. Just thought you'd find that interesting, awesome video bro.
so I don't know if this has been already said, but the historically accurate way vikings used their shields was: they held it on the side of their body, not facing the attacker, because the wooden part could not take a beating, but most had a metal ring on the outside, which could take a beating. they would thrust this at the incoming blade to parry it with the sheild. it's really cool to watch, and that's why they didn't have the strap, because the weak point you mentioned was never really a problem
whoa , nice:)
now close wikipedia:)
There's actually no archaeological evidence suggesting a metal rim as opposed to a rawhide or leather rim. There is although evidence for other cultures with round shields hat metal rims. According to some of the old Norse sagas, iron was not used for the rims as it was VERY expensive, as they made it from ore collected from bogs(look up "bog iron" if you haven't heard of it), and the rawhide was also preferred as it would still allow an enemy's blade to sink into the shield, which gives you control over your opponent's blade. The rawhide would also shrink, as it was applied wet, tightening the bond between the many boards that make up the body of the shield.
The reason that all those other youtubers made their shields without an arm strap is because, historically speaking, Vikings never made their shields with them. However I can understand the appeal of having them. Great video btw.
Also thankyou for giving the leather workers some much deserved heat. They talk a big game, but your armor can usually survive jumping a pool, a suit of leather cannot. Soaked dog's chew toy indeed. props
Absolutely badass build man! Well done!
That's awesome, I wish I had the time and funds to build this stuff, never the less I love to watch your vids. You make some awesome stuff
Some good construction methods, I will use some of what you show. The arm loop won't be one them.
Not bad, not bad at all. I would have made a secondary grip point for the "Heater" strapping but other than that it looks great. I hope you keep making things like this.
I think I just watched half of your vids they are high quality and I'm quite tempted to try these projects so I seem like bully badass in the zombie apoca
Eli, you should try to make some kind of Eastern-inspired weapon, katana, nagamaki, a sweet samurai helm. Since Japanese stuff of that nature is usually very ornate I figure you would have fun building something like that.
Just had a thought: that's a neat trick to make a circle, but if for some reason you can't do that, I figured I'd share a different option.
If you go from the center for and draw a straight line across the whole diameter, then add a perpendicular line, and keep adding as many lines as you need, eventually you can more or less freehand a circle by connecting the tips of the asterisk.
Eli,
just to put things in historic perspective: the reason for the canvas cover on original Viking shields is to cover the direction of the planks. Back in those days, the shields were made out of planks that were bound together somehow, but still a cut that was perpendicular to those planks could be stopped, whereas a cut parallel to those planks would have a higher possibility to break the shield along the edge of the plank. The purpose of the canvas is to disguise the direction of the planks, and make it harder for your opponent to figure out the easiest way to destroy your shield.
so glad i found your channel again! couldn't remember the name, awesome videos
Eli! You brought Stop Motion back! YAY!
I like this,
I used a similar cloth cover on my wooden riot shield (based in the same style as your street sign one) I covered the wooden panels with this and then bordered them with angled steel on the edges.
Good video and I really like the finished product.
Shame everything in America is so much cheaper than here in the UK though, I would do a lot more like your products if I could afford it but I definitely like to watch your projects.
I really wish you had more views. You deserve them man.
I am very impressed by your knowledge in cabinent making. Its very reashuring to see. Your shield is very well made. Im currently working on an almost 100% authentic one myself ( i dont have my blacksmith forge yet so hardware is not period correct).
Really its the tools used more than anything else that people could consider "historically inaccurate". The finished products, sans leather strap, is a fairly faithful recreation of this type of shield. Despite the fact that normally a Viking shield doesn't have a leather strap, its actually understandable why someone would want to add one; not only does it help secure the shield better, it also helps to distribute the weight so that its not all resting on your hand and wrist. As a side note, I believe that rim of the shield being either wrapped in leather/hide or capped with metal was done primarily to help further bolster the structural integrity of the rim so that it was less likely to split.
Shield's progressed over the years, some later shields did have straps, and over the shoulder straps for carrying on marches the cloth covering was to help an attacker knowing which way the grain on the wood ran, so making it more difficult to split the wood, also and edge of metal or thick leather would hide the edge grain, all in all he's done a pretty good job, by the way 'black shields' were for novices.
Now that's a viking shield tutorial I like 👍
Great video! My shield Umbo got damaged, so googling on a better way to make it hold its shape, then found your video!
Another awesome video Dude. I have been watching some of your stuff for a while and am currently making a couple of my own Viking shields. One point on getting smashed in the face though Mate. Historically this is the reason for the shape of the helmets used in conjunction with big shields such as the Greeks, Romans and Vikings. All of these helmets have either cheek, nose, or in the case of Vikings, the 'goggle' piece. This is exactly to protect your face from the shield hitting you when its struck. Few people understand this, especially about the Ancient Greeks, where the Greaves, Vambraces and Helmet were to protect yourself from your own shield as much as they were, if not more so, from your opponents strikes. Just a little historical info for you. Fantastic work though, been thinking about wood glue and canvas, but I think I will go with resin. Thanks
The shield is beautiful in appearance, and an excellent barrier shield. But, Viking shields weren't really made to be barrier shield, but rather as a blocking shield. This would actually be really difficult to use in combat that simulated viking style combat, because of several factors. We build accurate looking but historically inaccurate shields as well for the fighting we do.
First the weight is too high, a viking shield needs to be presented forward and moved with the sword to protect the sword hand and arm. In some ways, like a buckler moves. We know this for two reasons, Vikings didn't wear arm protection and there was very little cross guard on Viking swords until the very end of the age.
Also, arm straps were not used for a really good reason. That allowed the shield to absorb impact by pivoting and allowed you to make strikes from the shield side without having to reach in front of the shield. A properly weighted shield can be used to trap the weapon at this point. Also, there are no historic or literary references to anyone using a hammer in the Viking age except Thor in the Eddas. Hammers in the wars of us non-godly types are a product of trying to stop heavy armor.
The raised boss is interesting, and should increase your ability to trap weapons, but it will wear quickly, and is not a look that fits any viking age shield finds. Deeper boss, like they sell on Amazon might be a better choice.
Shield strikes were also not with the boss, but with the shield rim. When you look at the archaeological evidence, there are many with a line break on their faces that come from getting struck with an object that is the same width as a shield rim. The rim gives you reach.
You really don't need that many screws, You would be better off with carriage bolts, but without metal cutting stuff, I understand why you used them.
Final note, it needs a rim. A rim of 1" rawhide strips sewn through holes on the edge will greatly improve the shields life. Strikes on the edge will break it down quickly, even at 1/2".
An actual Viking shield was, about 8mm at the boss and shaved down to 4mm at the rim. When we build ours, we us 6mm (1/4") Baltic Birch cabinet grade plywood from a cabinet shop (more expensive) or commercial lumberyard (less expensive). We typically find the sheets for around $15 for a 5x5 sheet. We usually put a layer of glue and linen, and we have been experimenting with truck bed liner spray because it gives similar protection to the linen, is a similar look, and seems to last longer. Good effort though! It does look really nice.
So, I'd like to say that your shield looks great, and it looks like a solid build. I have a "historically accurate viking shield" and what you made would be a lot stronger since mine is suppose to catch and break swords. A viking round would be perfect for a zombie apocalypse, but the strap would limit your use of the shield. There are a few videos and explanations of how to properly use a viking shield, but there are lots of reasons for flat and edge use with the shield. It looks pretty awesome. Good job! Oh, and the weakness to the shield you are referencing is covered by some of these videos. The idea is to let the weapon strike, let the shield turn, push past and come around to the back of your opponent, using the shield like a door to deflect the force of the blow instead of blocking it.
That is beautiful, looks great, fantastic job!
Really cool build. I get alot of inspiration from your video's. Keep it up. 👍
you make some nice stuff. I try my best with the limited tools that I have. Thanks for giving me ideas. always great to watch. keep up the good work.
No problem bud. Thanks for watching.
You should use a countersink drill bit it will sink the screw head in a little bit and make it a little nicer. Love the vids
seeing the finished product, it looks like you took an old table, added a handle and center metal bulge thing, and called it a shield, haha. good build though
what is a shield supposed to look like in your opinion?
***** i'm not commenting that it doesn't look like a shield, i was saying it looks so nice with the dark staining finish that it looks like he took it from a piece of furniture
ah okay, so then i got it wrong ;)
I would like to see a Spartan shield tutorial! That would've been awesome :D
Not knocking your shield, it came out awesome. Just wanted to clarify some points, especially for those who might be confused in the comments section. The reason many Viking reenactors, and living history folk who practice Early Medieval martial techniques, use things like wood glue and linen instead of fiberglass is for historical accuracy and money. Historically, Viking shields were "chamfered" which means they were thicker in the middle, and thinner at the edge to provide alot more protection near the hand but still be lighter out at the edge. To strengthen a shield like this, Vikings would use cloth and a glue made from dairy byproducts, or just face the shield with rawhide. Also, using rawhide around the edge of a shield helps to keep the wood from splitting. Though reenactment blades are thick and dull, they are still only a few millimeters wide, and can cut through and exposed edge, not something you want happening if reenacting is just a hobby.
Also, sleeves or straps used on shields are awesome when you're fighting in a column-like formation, and need the leverage to create a strong barrier or wall just like you said. This was common in militaries like Greek hoplite infantry fighting in phalanx formations. But for Vikings, having a center grip shield allowed for the shield to pivot like a door on a hinge. The very danger of having the shield knocked into your face is possible, but highly unlikely for a well trained combatant, especially one paying attention. Allowing to receive the blow, and letting the shield pivot, you can actually then use the rotated shield to simultaneously protect your flank, and to keep engaged pressure on the enemy's weapon as you reach with your weapon hand OVER your shield hand, and strike to your opponents weapon side, one that is now open and too occupied to defend. If you're at all interested in these kinds of neat counter attacks, check out Roland Warzecha (spelling?) He's great.
That's likely the best explanations of what I like to call the viking flap-valve shield, when you dont use the argive strap on your elbow.
+ZNA Productions
nice shield bud. oak is brutally heavy. ive done SCA fighting for 2 years now myself (and fight with axe and shield) the one handed Grip isnt weak at all. you dont hold the shield against yourself (just like howna soccer goalie doesnt just stand on the line.) by holding your shield a bit out and away from your body, you decrease the strike area available to your opponent. when the shifts from an opponents strike, the one handed grip deflects the attack. remember that striking with a sword or Axe isnt what hollywood shows you.
anyways, wicked build, Love your channel, keep up the awesome work Broheim.
The stop motion song is awesome!
Stikkman - Stop Motion is definitely the best build song you need it more Eli, and I'm guessing you have seen Skallagrim's viking shield which looked fine till the doggie rawhide chew was added to the edge so well done on keeping the shield looking sexy !!!
Heyo as long as the canvas had some give and is flexible it will serve a purpose. Wood is hard and great but with their method of combat, a little bit of flexible cloth or something would help to absorb the impact while doing little damage to the shield itself, which is why it was common to see loose hide and leather draped over the side of Norse (I think it was Norse) ships. It would keep the arrows from biting into the wood.
So long story short good call and great video.
Viking shields didnt have straps, that was one of the specialties..
+Venixx "Viking" shields or Norman Infantry shields could and sometimes did have straps. Nothing said they couldn't. Wood shields were relatively weak unless wrapped in hide and set to dry. Then they would be heavy and much more expensive.
+MageryGuy they didn't, for more information check the ThegnThrand channel. They give excellent information for people who are interested in viking combat and history.
+Venixx I'll stick with what my degree in medevial history, 4+ years of research on the influence of Norman tech and trade, 20 years of medevial preservation, and my professor of medevial history Dane Johns at Boise state. Thanks.
+MageryGuy Well I think I know who won that dick measuring contest.
hahaha
the strap is a disadvantage because your arm can get dislocated easily by having the shield twisted. The vikings used the pommels of their swords as sort of an extra "handle" to support their shields.
In the U.S., you should use 1/2" shagbark hickory if you want a strong shield. with a 32" diameter, it should weight about 12lbs, while offering excelent protection. Splitting is prevented by covering the whole shield in boiled raw hide. The resin you used seems like a good idea too. Overall, yours turned out very nice looking, and I'd rather be behind it that the one fro skall. However, having a wide availability for a wood as tough as sharbark hickory, I'm convinced it would be the best possible option.
the manuverability disapears and sharp objects can penetrate the arm. and the boss is for protecting the hand you never punch with the boss you punch with the shield rim
Feffnirsbane In ceratin situations, the fact that the shield is attached to your arm is very good thing. But having a shield boss and a strap in a bit moronic, the boss doesn't protect your hand that way and just adds wieght
the boss is for not getting arrows in the hand.
The boss is for protection of the finger and allows for better control of the shields when not strapped in (look boss shielded should be) If is not for arrow protection, people standing several yards or a hundred yards from typically don't aim for such a mall fast moving target as your hands*
its not that they aim for the hand stupid have you ever been in a shieldwall fight against lots of rubbertip arrows?
Yes, I do SCA fighting, There are accounts stating that the shield bosses is for protection of the fingers against blades, axes, javelins, rocks and the like, sepcifically protection of the fingers, when held without a strap.
This was very educational. Thank you.
Love your stuff man, just thought id point out that the arm strap you've put in actually defeats the entire purpose of the centre grip behind the boss. You lose the utility of the centre grip when you strap yourself in, so at that point might as well have 2 straps
+Narcoticks haha you addressed it... should watch the whole video first
+Narcoticks It re-defines rather than defeats the purpose. The original thinking behind no-strap viking shields was to use the energy of the incoming attack and let it deflect by allowing the shield to pivot. This requires some unorthodox stances to pivot and attack countering a "far-right" blow.
In this case, the shield becomes more of a "standard" shield, and no re-position/pivoting action would be done. Again, it's a flavour preference and up to you depending on how you're used to S/S fighting.
That's what shield walls were for. You would put the least secure part of the shield over the person to your right's shield. They would keep your shield arm strong the same as you would keep the person to your left strong.
It looks awesome, and I think it is very functional.
+ศานต์ไท หุ่นพยนต์ its too Heavy to be functional if he made it out of playwood
Craftdefender remember that Eli is fuckin built. I couldn't even probably lift it. this is made for large, buff Vikings.
the name you used for your stain mix gave me a good name for a weapon im making
would this be able to defend by one of the bows you made? maybe have a test video? idk just suggestions
The main disadvantage to strap shields is that if someone were to grab the shield edge and twist it, then you cant avoid your opponent manipulating you as easily as you could with an unstrapped shield (by dropping it), and it may cause you pain if the opponent is strong enough. There are a lot of advantages and disadvantages to either type, strapped or not. However, with this variant you do have the option to choose either, so I feel like this would be optimal.
Nah, chances are the straps would give in first, them your grip and then the shield is wrenched out of your hand.
I wouldn't think so with such a solid strap. Point is, the main advantage to a strap is also the main disadvantage; you can't let go as easily/its harder to wrench the shield out of your grip.
Lee McCulloch ill look into it.
Karim Adham Another issue with the strap, which is specific to viking shields and swords, is that a lot of the techniques require fighting around the perimeter of the shield, which is why the crossguards are so short (no need for protection if your hand is always behind your shield) and the strap cuts out about half of your lines of attack by making it impossible to strike from that side of the shield (at least not without really tying up your arms).
It really depends on the type of shield and how it is meant to be used, but outside of a few exceptions (like roman shields), the strap didn't really become a thing unless the shield was used primarily on horseback.
Lee C If an opponent offers up one of their hands to _grab your shield_ stab them in the fucking throat.
Wicked man. Thank for the tutorial!
Good looking shield. Some different construction methods I've not seen before, but not unwelcome. Just different (fiberglass resin, not a bad idea). Others have said this, but I think I can help articulate it a little better. The reason for using rawhide on the edge isn't just about helping prevent the edge from fraying/splintering apart. Rawhide tends to be thick, and surprisingly (even once hardened) absorptive of blows to the edge. Your canvas, while tough, won't absorb blows as well because of how thin it is. Because of this, while it won't rip/fray very easily, the wood fibres of the plywood will still penetrate the fabric with relative ease under a heavy blow.
Now, I've not been fighting in the SCA long, but I've been paying attention, and I've never seen a fighting shield without some sort of edge banding. A common construction method I have seen on center grip round shields is to use 1/2"-3/4" cotton rope, wrap it around the edge of the shield and hold in place with sinew, and then to wrap rawhide around that as well. The cotton rope does an excellent job of absorbing the blunt blows of our weapons, and the rawhide lasts longer than the shield if properly attached. This way, blunt blows don't splinter the hell out of our shield edges, and I'm pretty sure it would stand up better to an edged weapon than just canvas. Just a suggestion/insight on shield banding and it's purpose. Also, for good looking rawhide banding... I recommend getting something better and easier to work with than chew toys.
Awesome vid!
Can I get a detailed list of the tools and materials needed for this shield? Cheers.
Is that my kitchen table??
U did good.. I made mine real close to yours 2 years ago...I'm 69 years old still making wepons
hey man, I think the vikings put their axe against that corner to brace the weak spot so it wouldn't smash their faces, Awesome vid man
It looks really nice!
You should take a look at impact drivers ,i know this was made 2 years ago but if You still dont have one and You can aford it, it helps with prevent splitting
Sweet shield man!!
hey thank you i have made one looks amazing but i wanted to do the metal trimming i know this is alot to ask but it would be awesome for you to show how to do metal around the sides for those who want to use meta on a higher budget
About the strap thing: If you rotate the shield 90 degrees (so the thumb points forwards), it is much easier to counter the spear (or whatever) that hits on the left side (your left).
Btw, the thumb should not go around the handle, but go up and lay on the side of the handle, pointing up.
I love that shield!
if you used the scrap pieces of ply, and started at one corner, and ended at the diagonal and drew a line about middle and do that for both diagonals it has the perfect center
i like how you slipped in a roast on skallagrim at the end
you are a good builder.
The movement of the shield is literally the whole point of it
bro... what you need to do is do mock battles and like capture the flag with some of these weapons and armour sets and make vids on that... i think that would be an awesome series!!!!