Your presentation does an excellent job of explaining what, where and how, but getting the message across in an understandable way with great graphics is the most valuable element. There is also the setup you have provided with all the mods that make the pony more capable of taking advantage of those tactics. Well done. Keep up the fantastic contribution.
Thanks! I'm glad the video is helpful. I'm trying to cover as many aspects of autocross as possible to help people get as much as they can out of their Mustangs and their driving skills.
@@warhorseracing Thanks so much for your videos, I did my first autocross both Saturday and Sunday. I had a blast. This weekend I have an autocross school on Saturday and an event on Sunday.
@@JoediyLab It's always great to hear that someone enjoyed their first autocross event! Have fun at the school, and please let me know how you do at the event.
Thanks! I hope my channel is able to show people that autocross is more about handling than horsepower, and that any Mustang can be turned into a fun, fast autocross car.
Thanks! Normally, I help run novice schools for two clubs during the season. Covid restrictions don't allow for in-car instruction, so we can't do novice schools until this situation improves. I can't wait to be able to get back into cars with people again.
I always include basic tips about steering, braking & throttle inputs when I lead the novice course walks at my events. That helps to highlight areas where drivers can gain or lose a lot of time out on course.
@@warhorseracing my husband and son do this too I told them of your advice. They are better at this than me however they both want to improve on their performance. We really have fun doing this as a family. Your presentation is very good.
One thing that occurred to me at my last event was how lower HP cars could go 3 seconds faster than mine. I think the next time I go out I will try it with a lower boost setting. It’s tough to not understeer with higher HP. I’m going to try going slower to go faster.
You don't need a ton of horsepower to autocross. Your power-to-weight ratio is important, as is how well you can get power to the ground. Input timing and duration are also really important. If you're overlapping your throttle and steering inputs in a RWD car, you will oversteer. If you're overlapping your braking and steering inputs, you will understeer. If you're going too fast entering certain elements, you will understeer. Less boost might solve your problem, but it's worth looking at your throttle input timing too.
@@warhorseracing I was curious on your thoughts of track day insurance. I came across this and wondered if you had any information and if people use it in Autocross. Maybe it would be decent material for a video. www.hagerty.com/insurance/track-day-insurance?Facebook&March2021&HPDE&fbclid=IwAR165XG_pfCKEumG5YkdWR3C2U2E0wfqEt0H4L5r3RUUxR6HRWSdSBUtJYA
@@MikesGarageRoute66 I don't know anyone who uses track day insurance for autocross. Autocross events are defined as "car control events" not "racing events" because it's not door to door racing. Autocross events are limited to around 65 mph. Most clubs will stagger the launches so it's nearly impossible for two cars to come into contact with one another. And, it's extremely rare that someone will get into a situation where their car suffers heavy damage. Autocross is generally very safe. But, because autocross sites vary so much, and every driver has a different level of skill and restraint, I'd never tell someone they shouldn't get autocross insurance if they felt it was the right choice for them. Some companies allow you to insure your car as an autocross car, but I imagine that varies by state and might come with coverage/mileage limits. I do know a lot of people who use their cars for HPDE (track) events, and many of them get track day coverage. With speeds well over 70 mph, multiple cars on track, and a greater risk of parts failure leading to an incident, I think it's wise to have coverage when going to a track event.
Do you know anything about ecu's? I have a c3w1 ecu in my 88 manual car but cannot find much about it on forums almost everything is about the A9L or sister ecu's any help would be appreciated
I know that it is a 89-93 MAF auto ecu, the forums have mixed reviews about the strategies for timing cut on shifts and part throttle power on the low end. Could be why it shifts hard and really picks up on the next gear besides a aluminum flywheel because it's not pulling timing like a manual ecu would. You have ridden in the car at the coliseum events, and at Piedmont it traps 89 to 92 top end of third and still stock besides GT40 intake, 24 lb injectors and the timing turned up on nitto 555G2's but I want to know all the programs and strategies on it and if it's easy to reflash when I have the money
@@hunterkime1759 My 1992 GT started out as an automatic. It still has the factory ECU (without a chip/tune). I have not had any issues like what you've described. I know you've searched the forums, but have you created a thread about this specific question?
No it's not a bad issue at all just I'm still finding things out about my car because it was modified by someone else, the forums say that the A9L is the fastest stock tuned ecu, I just don't know about EFI my first love is old American muscle but I also love imports as well I just know more about carburetors and I need to have it tuned badly it runs like crap, can't idle or keep volts high enough to run the msd box
@@hunterkime1759 Learning everything about your car and what was previously done to it is the right plan. There are lots of reasons why these cars run poorly. I make sure to clean my MAF sensor and check my vacuum/PCV lines often, in addition to the normal tune-up stuff.
Tire choice is very personal. I haven't personally used the Falken RT615K+ or the RT660, but I have used the Nitto NT05. I know some people who love the RT615K+ (and are very fast), and others who don't like them. I've heard the RT660 is a better tire than the RT615K+ (but "better" means different things to different people). When it comes to performance, the Falkens are faster than the Nittos. The NT05 is far from the fastest autocross tire available. But the NT05 is, in my opinion, a good entry-level 200TW tire. They usually cost less than other "top tier" 200TW tires, which is good for people who haven't done many events, or are making big changes to their cars that will require them to learn the car all over again. Those two scenarios lead to chewing up tires. I always tell people it's better to chew up less expensive tires. If you feel like you've done enough events, or you're comfortable enough with your car to get the most life/performance out of the tires, the Falkens are a better choice. I would suggest reaching out to people who use the Falkens to get their thoughts.
@@hunterkime1759 I'm glad I could help. I went from the G1 Nitto 555 to the NT05 before stepping up to the BFG Rival S (now S 1.5). That gave me a chance to see the difference between "street tires" and autocross tires, as well as the difference between entry-level and top-tier autocross tires.
Did you take your ac system out yet taking the condenser out .you get more air to your radiator and do an egr delete and if you dont need the heat take out the blower and the heater core.9lb ebay battery. And your there.
I did take the A/C out of my Fox. A K-member and some racing seats will get that car down to 3,000 lbs. I've got some more weight reduction mods on the way for my V6, but I do plan on keeping the A/C and heat in that car.
Your presentation does an excellent job of explaining what, where and how, but getting the message across in an understandable way with great graphics is the most valuable element. There is also the setup you have provided with all the mods that make the pony more capable of taking advantage of those tactics. Well done. Keep up the fantastic contribution.
Thanks! I'm glad the video is helpful. I'm trying to cover as many aspects of autocross as possible to help people get as much as they can out of their Mustangs and their driving skills.
Great info, my first autocross is this weekend. Watching and learning. Thanks
Thanks! If you have any questions, please ask. I'm always happy to help. You're going to have a lot of fun at your first event!
@@warhorseracing Thanks looking forward to it.
@@warhorseracing Thanks so much for your videos, I did my first autocross both Saturday and Sunday. I had a blast. This weekend I have an autocross school on Saturday and an event on Sunday.
@@JoediyLab It's always great to hear that someone enjoyed their first autocross event! Have fun at the school, and please let me know how you do at the event.
Amazing you hang with all the high hp cars.great vid.
Thanks! I hope my channel is able to show people that autocross is more about handling than horsepower, and that any Mustang can be turned into a fun, fast autocross car.
Great video! You need to set up your own autocross school!
Thanks! Normally, I help run novice schools for two clubs during the season. Covid restrictions don't allow for in-car instruction, so we can't do novice schools until this situation improves. I can't wait to be able to get back into cars with people again.
Great job! Love how you use the graphics to explain your point. Very well done.
Thank you! If this video was helpful, you might also like my "HOW THE WRONG LINE COSTS YOU TIME" video.
@@warhorseracing Thanks! I'll check it out!
I always do the novice walk too. It gives some great advice too.
I always include basic tips about steering, braking & throttle inputs when I lead the novice course walks at my events. That helps to highlight areas where drivers can gain or lose a lot of time out on course.
@@warhorseracing my husband and son do this too I told them of your advice. They are better at this than me however they both want to improve on their performance. We really have fun doing this as a family. Your presentation is very good.
@@apj1480 Thank you! It's always great to see families autocrossing together. I'm happy to answer any questions you have about autocross.
Something tells me my biggest issue will be the social aspects 😆
One thing that occurred to me at my last event was how lower HP cars could go 3 seconds faster than mine. I think the next time I go out I will try it with a lower boost setting. It’s tough to not understeer with higher HP. I’m going to try going slower to go faster.
You don't need a ton of horsepower to autocross. Your power-to-weight ratio is important, as is how well you can get power to the ground. Input timing and duration are also really important. If you're overlapping your throttle and steering inputs in a RWD car, you will oversteer. If you're overlapping your braking and steering inputs, you will understeer. If you're going too fast entering certain elements, you will understeer. Less boost might solve your problem, but it's worth looking at your throttle input timing too.
Another great video. Thank you for creating it!
Thank you!
@@warhorseracing I was curious on your thoughts of track day insurance. I came across this and wondered if you had any information and if people use it in Autocross. Maybe it would be decent material for a video. www.hagerty.com/insurance/track-day-insurance?Facebook&March2021&HPDE&fbclid=IwAR165XG_pfCKEumG5YkdWR3C2U2E0wfqEt0H4L5r3RUUxR6HRWSdSBUtJYA
@@MikesGarageRoute66 I don't know anyone who uses track day insurance for autocross. Autocross events are defined as "car control events" not "racing events" because it's not door to door racing. Autocross events are limited to around 65 mph. Most clubs will stagger the launches so it's nearly impossible for two cars to come into contact with one another. And, it's extremely rare that someone will get into a situation where their car suffers heavy damage. Autocross is generally very safe. But, because autocross sites vary so much, and every driver has a different level of skill and restraint, I'd never tell someone they shouldn't get autocross insurance if they felt it was the right choice for them. Some companies allow you to insure your car as an autocross car, but I imagine that varies by state and might come with coverage/mileage limits. I do know a lot of people who use their cars for HPDE (track) events, and many of them get track day coverage. With speeds well over 70 mph, multiple cars on track, and a greater risk of parts failure leading to an incident, I think it's wise to have coverage when going to a track event.
@@warhorseracing Thank you!
Do you know anything about ecu's? I have a c3w1 ecu in my 88 manual car but cannot find much about it on forums almost everything is about the A9L or sister ecu's any help would be appreciated
Unfortunately, I haven't cracked into the ECU on my Fox. What specific questions do you have? It might be worth reaching out to MPS Auto Salvage.
I know that it is a 89-93 MAF auto ecu, the forums have mixed reviews about the strategies for timing cut on shifts and part throttle power on the low end. Could be why it shifts hard and really picks up on the next gear besides a aluminum flywheel because it's not pulling timing like a manual ecu would. You have ridden in the car at the coliseum events, and at Piedmont it traps 89 to 92 top end of third and still stock besides GT40 intake, 24 lb injectors and the timing turned up on nitto 555G2's but I want to know all the programs and strategies on it and if it's easy to reflash when I have the money
@@hunterkime1759 My 1992 GT started out as an automatic. It still has the factory ECU (without a chip/tune). I have not had any issues like what you've described. I know you've searched the forums, but have you created a thread about this specific question?
No it's not a bad issue at all just I'm still finding things out about my car because it was modified by someone else, the forums say that the A9L is the fastest stock tuned ecu, I just don't know about EFI my first love is old American muscle but I also love imports as well I just know more about carburetors and I need to have it tuned badly it runs like crap, can't idle or keep volts high enough to run the msd box
@@hunterkime1759 Learning everything about your car and what was previously done to it is the right plan. There are lots of reasons why these cars run poorly. I make sure to clean my MAF sensor and check my vacuum/PCV lines often, in addition to the normal tune-up stuff.
Would the Fallen RT615k+ or RT660 be a good tire or nitro nt05
Tire choice is very personal. I haven't personally used the Falken RT615K+ or the RT660, but I have used the Nitto NT05. I know some people who love the RT615K+ (and are very fast), and others who don't like them. I've heard the RT660 is a better tire than the RT615K+ (but "better" means different things to different people). When it comes to performance, the Falkens are faster than the Nittos. The NT05 is far from the fastest autocross tire available. But the NT05 is, in my opinion, a good entry-level 200TW tire. They usually cost less than other "top tier" 200TW tires, which is good for people who haven't done many events, or are making big changes to their cars that will require them to learn the car all over again. Those two scenarios lead to chewing up tires. I always tell people it's better to chew up less expensive tires. If you feel like you've done enough events, or you're comfortable enough with your car to get the most life/performance out of the tires, the Falkens are a better choice. I would suggest reaching out to people who use the Falkens to get their thoughts.
Hey thanks I remember you run the BFG rival s but I wanted something better than nitto 555g2's when I eventually get the car running
@@hunterkime1759 I'm glad I could help. I went from the G1 Nitto 555 to the NT05 before stepping up to the BFG Rival S (now S 1.5). That gave me a chance to see the difference between "street tires" and autocross tires, as well as the difference between entry-level and top-tier autocross tires.
Did you take your ac system out yet taking the condenser out .you get more air to your radiator and do an egr delete and if you dont need the heat take out the blower and the heater core.9lb ebay battery. And your there.
I did take the A/C out of my Fox. A K-member and some racing seats will get that car down to 3,000 lbs. I've got some more weight reduction mods on the way for my V6, but I do plan on keeping the A/C and heat in that car.
@@warhorseracing that would be at least 150 lbs.