Awesome video! Just a couple of quick notes on the ceramic wool: they do make safer formulations of these today and some are not as dangerous as they were a few years back (I think Harbison Walker makes one). On the durability: Once you rigidize, if you do several coats of satanite and cure between, it will last ages and is very easy to repair. If you stay on top of it, you can go many years without replacing the blanket. Flux will eat blanket like cotton candy though, so its good to have a sacrificial floor or a castable one if you're forge welding a lot. If you add a kiln wash like ITC100 or another IR reflecting wash, you'll get big gains in efficiency too which can help in production time. Love your content!
I’ve used that kao-wool stuff before to wrap around the chimney pipes of a small wood stove I bought. You’re right it’s nasty shit and you can just see all the fibers coming off it as you move it. I wrapped it in a few layers of that shiny heat resistant tape to fully cover it and it works amazing at insulating but I wouldn’t use it again just because how nasty it is to work with.
@firecreekforge, I want to ask honestly what you think about this comment that I think has been the gist that I get from some makers: "If your interested a little, go cheap, but some extras to make it better. If you know you are more serious, nothing is made for sale as well as you can make it". If you are getting interested in blacksmithing and don't have tools and money, then buy the cheapest one you can get and some parts to fix it up a little bit: (I.E. Rigidizer, ceramic clay/cement to fill holes/hotspots.). If you have a more series interest then you will need to make your own and design it with lots of TH-cam research from serious blacksmith/Bladesmiths, and probably some professional plumbers advice for gas piping and shutoffs for safety. I love that you are shooting a lot of these beginner videos about equipment. I think its so good for the guys new to the industry to pull so much information that might seem day to day basics to most of you guys.
I have old forge building videos on the channel here where I built an entire forge for 150 bucks with new parts. It's probably a little more today, but it's about what you will pay for a cheap forge online, and it will last much longer. This involves building a Frosty T burner, and a soft brick forge body with a basic angle iron frame. If I was just starting out that's what I would do again.
@@FireCreekForge Thank you, and actually I watched your video after I had unfortunately already purchased a forge and needed to fix it up (when I got started). I think you are right, I just didn't hear that in the video so I thought I might just ask! Thank you!
Hello,sir ， does your company have any refractory procurement needs? We are a Chinese refractory manufacturer with 20 years of experience. We look forward to learning and exchanging with you.
always useful to have an experienced point of view on anything forge related, I am building my first gas forge and will be buying some refractory to go over the top of the rigidized kaowool (thanks for the tip on the refractory) Thankyou for sharing
Hello, sir does your company have any refractory procurement needs?we will provide a cheap price andGuarantee quality We are a Chinese refractory manufacturer with 20 years of experience. We look forward to learning and exchanging with you.
On a typical 2 burner forge how long does a 100# cylinder of propane last, and what do you regulate the pressure down to or is it pretty much wide open to get enough heat?
Man that's hard to know I don't really measure it. It really depends on the usage, if I'm just forging blades i'm running about 5 psi, forge welding is about 20psi, it all depends on what you're making and how much. Also, I have more than one forge I use depending on what I'm doing. With that setup, at least a couple months I guess..?
So I’m about to build my first forge and I was going to line with wool, then put soft brick to cover that and seal it all with refractory. Am I going way overboard or making some kind of mistake when it comes to ease of maintenance? I’ve never built before so I just wanted to trap as much heat as I could to make it as efficient as I can in terms of fuel.
Are those low temp fire bricks mainly for under potbelly stoves to insulate the heat from the stove to the floor? And the white bricks are more for fireplaces but not necessarily forges? Idk just asking. 🤷♀️
"In Middle and South Europe, grog is used to create fire-resistant chamotte type bricks and mortar for construction of fireplaces, old-style and industrial furnaces, and as component of high temperature application sealants and adhesives" on wikipedia it's written that it is used in furnace construction
@7:56 "...is very bad for your lungs..." - Very bad like smoking (tobacco)? Or maybe a couple of orders of magnitude worse? These kind of fibers (Kaowool etc.) are _highly_ carcinogenic, and I think this fact should be emphasized more clearly. There are quite a few YT smiths who quite happily use (and instruct others to use and construct) gas forges that have the Kaowool cladding _completely_ exposed at the front and the back. Forced air (blower) forges even. Utter madness, or stupidity. Trust me, you're _NOT_ going to like cancer if you get it. _ANY_ variant.
I’d disagree that’s there’s no advantage to building a forge over buying one beyond saving money. Most forges that are for sale are designed for one purpose either meant for forging blades and other long pointy things or a forge meant for hose shoes but you can do small blades in those but not longer items. When you build a Forge from scratch you can design it yourself to be multipurpose to have a large wide area for bigger and odd shaped projects but also design pass throughs to allow any length of blade you want to work on, you can integrate a cart into the build giving you space to mount equipment like a blower valves and shut off switch especially on a ribbon burner forge build. Realistically everyone starting out should probably purchase a forge from an actual manufacturer or a reputable builder but as time goes on and skills are learned building a forge should be done simply so you know how to do it because one day you might need to build a special forge for a really long sword or something else where you have no choice but to build it
Awesome video! Just a couple of quick notes on the ceramic wool: they do make safer formulations of these today and some are not as dangerous as they were a few years back (I think Harbison Walker makes one). On the durability: Once you rigidize, if you do several coats of satanite and cure between, it will last ages and is very easy to repair. If you stay on top of it, you can go many years without replacing the blanket. Flux will eat blanket like cotton candy though, so its good to have a sacrificial floor or a castable one if you're forge welding a lot. If you add a kiln wash like ITC100 or another IR reflecting wash, you'll get big gains in efficiency too which can help in production time. Love your content!
I’ve used that kao-wool stuff before to wrap around the chimney pipes of a small wood stove I bought. You’re right it’s nasty shit and you can just see all the fibers coming off it as you move it. I wrapped it in a few layers of that shiny heat resistant tape to fully cover it and it works amazing at insulating but I wouldn’t use it again just because how nasty it is to work with.
@firecreekforge, I want to ask honestly what you think about this comment that I think has been the gist that I get from some makers: "If your interested a little, go cheap, but some extras to make it better. If you know you are more serious, nothing is made for sale as well as you can make it". If you are getting interested in blacksmithing and don't have tools and money, then buy the cheapest one you can get and some parts to fix it up a little bit: (I.E. Rigidizer, ceramic clay/cement to fill holes/hotspots.). If you have a more series interest then you will need to make your own and design it with lots of TH-cam research from serious blacksmith/Bladesmiths, and probably some professional plumbers advice for gas piping and shutoffs for safety.
I love that you are shooting a lot of these beginner videos about equipment. I think its so good for the guys new to the industry to pull so much information that might seem day to day basics to most of you guys.
I have old forge building videos on the channel here where I built an entire forge for 150 bucks with new parts. It's probably a little more today, but it's about what you will pay for a cheap forge online, and it will last much longer. This involves building a Frosty T burner, and a soft brick forge body with a basic angle iron frame. If I was just starting out that's what I would do again.
@@FireCreekForge Thank you, and actually I watched your video after I had unfortunately already purchased a forge and needed to fix it up (when I got started). I think you are right, I just didn't hear that in the video so I thought I might just ask! Thank you!
This is an incredibly timely video! Im planning a huge forge build for this spring lol
Hello,sir ， does your company have any refractory procurement needs? We are a Chinese refractory manufacturer with 20 years of experience. We look forward to learning and exchanging with you.
Very informative. How about a DIY forge build and brand comparison video in the future?
Thanks for the info on the bricks. Took your info and got the right stuff
always useful to have an experienced point of view on anything forge related, I am building my first gas forge and will be buying some refractory to go over the top of the rigidized kaowool (thanks for the tip on the refractory)
Thankyou for sharing
Hello, sir does your company have any refractory procurement needs?we will provide a cheap price andGuarantee quality We are a Chinese refractory manufacturer with 20 years of experience. We look forward to learning and exchanging with you.
On a typical 2 burner forge how long does a 100# cylinder of propane last, and what do you regulate the pressure down to or is it pretty much wide open to get enough heat?
Man that's hard to know I don't really measure it. It really depends on the usage, if I'm just forging blades i'm running about 5 psi, forge welding is about 20psi, it all depends on what you're making and how much. Also, I have more than one forge I use depending on what I'm doing. With that setup, at least a couple months I guess..?
@@FireCreekForge oh wow that’s not bad at all. I figured you went through it pretty quickly.
So I’m about to build my first forge and I was going to line with wool, then put soft brick to cover that and seal it all with refractory. Am I going way overboard or making some kind of mistake when it comes to ease of maintenance? I’ve never built before so I just wanted to trap as much heat as I could to make it as efficient as I can in terms of fuel.
I don't think you need refractory if you're using bricks. A layer of either ceramic felt or wool between the brick and Forge body would be beneficial.
What do you think about using old clay street bricks?
Clay bricks won't hold up to direct heat so aren't good for a gas forge fire box
what about induction do away with the need for containing heat entirely
Do I need anything else if I use a insulated fire brick and a ceramic felt and can it go up to welding temp
@@readymadekhane8247 yes provided you get the right bricks, they are not all rated for the same temperature.
@@FireCreekForge ok would I need anything else to cover them or can i can slap the felt and slap the bricks in and I'm ready to go?
@@FireCreekForge do you have links to the fire bricks and ceramic felt u recommend I'm making a propane forge
Are those low temp fire bricks mainly for under potbelly stoves to insulate the heat from the stove to the floor?
And the white bricks are more for fireplaces but not necessarily forges? Idk just asking. 🤷♀️
The fiberboard looks more like something they’d put in a furnace or a water heater for lightweight
The lower temp bricks are to line a wood stove I believe, adequate for that application.
hi, can i use chamotte to make a round furnace? the one i was planning to buy is rated for 1000°c
"In Middle and South Europe, grog is used to create fire-resistant chamotte type bricks and mortar for construction of fireplaces, old-style and industrial furnaces, and as component of high temperature application sealants and adhesives" on wikipedia it's written that it is used in furnace construction
@7:56 "...is very bad for your lungs..." - Very bad like smoking (tobacco)? Or maybe a couple of orders of magnitude worse?
These kind of fibers (Kaowool etc.) are _highly_ carcinogenic, and I think this fact should be emphasized more clearly. There are quite a few YT smiths who quite happily use (and instruct others to use and construct) gas forges that have the Kaowool cladding _completely_ exposed at the front and the back. Forced air (blower) forges even. Utter madness, or stupidity. Trust me, you're _NOT_ going to like cancer if you get it. _ANY_ variant.
I’d disagree that’s there’s no advantage to building a forge over buying one beyond saving money. Most forges that are for sale are designed for one purpose either meant for forging blades and other long pointy things or a forge meant for hose shoes but you can do small blades in those but not longer items. When you build a Forge from scratch you can design it yourself to be multipurpose to have a large wide area for bigger and odd shaped projects but also design pass throughs to allow any length of blade you want to work on, you can integrate a cart into the build giving you space to mount equipment like a blower valves and shut off switch especially on a ribbon burner forge build.
Realistically everyone starting out should probably purchase a forge from an actual manufacturer or a reputable builder but as time goes on and skills are learned building a forge should be done simply so you know how to do it because one day you might need to build a special forge for a really long sword or something else where you have no choice but to build it
👍 für den Algorithmus
How about those Chiefs