The Jimny community is growing fast, as a underpowered 4x4 with a very small petrol tank, it will be great if you make a review on the R15 size AT and Mt and actually weight the tyre's so the audience can make a informed decision on the best thread for their off/on-road combined with the light weight to keep the engine from not losing to much performance and the fuel economy in check, keep these videos rolling, great job.
Great vid. I wish we had more of the light weight casing options in Aus like they have in the US. The 116 load rated KO2 is the reason I continue to buy BFG for my Raptor compared all other heavy options. I fitted Falken wild peak AT3 in 123S rating to our 300 series and the reduction in ride comfort is shocking. Definitely a fuel penalty too.
What about 2-ply LT vs 2-ply non-LT? If I understand, the LT (light truck) designation makes the tyre stronger? More puncture-resistant sidewalls? Perhaps explain a little of the difference in tyre build, and what it means for tyre choice vs intended usage, please.
Around here shale rock does not seem to care if it is 2 ply or 3 ply. If you hit the side wall just right it will cut the sidewalls on both and give you a flat.
Do you want a tire that punctures easier on the sidewall or one that is a bit more durable and harder to puncture. It doesn’t matter if a tougher sidewall only saves you from a flat only one time in 60k miles that one time is worth having the 3ply sidewall.
Really interesting discussion. I have a petrol Jeep and when I went from 2ply to 3 ply my fuel mileage reduced by about 35%. I did increase the size too, a bit over an inch with 255/75/17 to 295/70/17. I also put heavier wheels on as well at the same time (Icon Rebound Pro with innerlock bead lock system) and these also have a bigger offset making the vehicle wider and this reduces the economy even further. A huge negative is how much this affects power at the wheels and I think that this is the biggest downside, knowing that all that power is being wasted on the road. I actually bought an expensive jack so I can more easily swap to the original wheels and tires on demand but it's not something I want to do often because it involves removing the plastic riveted flares and I don't have TPMS in the originals. That said it's a beast off road and it's nice not having to worry about punctures. Also because I have the innerlock in the wheels I can run at very low PSI and get a good footprint. I never considered heat to be a potential issue, what are the chances of heat building up to a point of critical failure on dirt roads? Or do they just wear quicker? I think when these tires wear out I will consider going back to the stock wheels and putting some 255/80/17 on them. Order them from the states if I have to. This way I can lose most of the weight and still have a good footprint for off road. My only concern with this is that with a 2" lift and bigger tires without the offset increase, would it be too unstable on the road? I'm not sure.
It was mention somewhere 2ply vs 3 ply…the 3ply is actually 150% stronger. Better for rocky and lava roads. I live in Hawaii. My off roading is mainly going to my fishing spots on lava roads and trails…we need the extra protection on the sidewalks! 3 ply is my choice always!
2ply vs3 ply..means the 3ply will be better in coming home when some of those trails that gets extra rocky in those few small spots.. It’s alway those few bad spots we need the better/ & stronger tires, a lift, good shocks…and lockers or limited slips.. fire roads not necessarily…
3 ply all day for heavy rigs. And proper bush work. If i run 2 ply sidewalls i destroy them after a while, 3 ply i have done sidewalls but a lot less. Keeping in mind not all tyres are created equal 3 ply or not...
Look at the D Load Range Toyo ATIII 34 X 10.5 X 17... measures 33.5", 10.6" wide and weighs 55 lb Now, can someone equate the 2 or 3 plies to U.S. Load Ranges? C, D, E and F? I realize that, typically, E Load Range has been equated to an antiquated "10-ply", but these are no longer made. Today's E Load Range are typically 3 poly plies...
You're a great presenter allowing the expert to speak and asking great questions
The Jimny community is growing fast, as a underpowered 4x4 with a very small petrol tank, it will be great if you make a review on the R15 size AT and Mt and actually weight the tyre's so the audience can make a informed decision on the best thread for their off/on-road combined with the light weight to keep the engine from not losing to much performance and the fuel economy in check, keep these videos rolling, great job.
The 3 ply is better for weight carrying
Great job getting doctor Karl’s brother Steve in to explain the difference in 2-3 ply tyres very informative
Very informative, cheers.
Great vid. I wish we had more of the light weight casing options in Aus like they have in the US. The 116 load rated KO2 is the reason I continue to buy BFG for my Raptor compared all other heavy options. I fitted Falken wild peak AT3 in 123S rating to our 300 series and the reduction in ride comfort is shocking. Definitely a fuel penalty too.
Thanks for the vid
What about 2-ply LT vs 2-ply non-LT? If I understand, the LT (light truck) designation makes the tyre stronger? More puncture-resistant sidewalls? Perhaps explain a little of the difference in tyre build, and what it means for tyre choice vs intended usage, please.
Please do a comparison between the Toyo open country rt3 variants (p, lt, Floatation), thanks!
Around here shale rock does not seem to care if it is 2 ply or 3 ply. If you hit the side wall just right it will cut the sidewalls on both and give you a flat.
Buy the lightest AT tire that meets your needs
In the US, 2 ply sidewalls typically fail on hard rocks.
This guy is from Australia. Only soft rocks there.
Do you want a tire that punctures easier on the sidewall or one that is a bit more durable and harder to puncture. It doesn’t matter if a tougher sidewall only saves you from a flat only one time in 60k miles that one time is worth having the 3ply sidewall.
Really interesting discussion. I have a petrol Jeep and when I went from 2ply to 3 ply my fuel mileage reduced by about 35%. I did increase the size too, a bit over an inch with 255/75/17 to 295/70/17.
I also put heavier wheels on as well at the same time (Icon Rebound Pro with innerlock bead lock system) and these also have a bigger offset making the vehicle wider and this reduces the economy even further.
A huge negative is how much this affects power at the wheels and I think that this is the biggest downside, knowing that all that power is being wasted on the road. I actually bought an expensive jack so I can more easily swap to the original wheels and tires on demand but it's not something I want to do often because it involves removing the plastic riveted flares and I don't have TPMS in the originals.
That said it's a beast off road and it's nice not having to worry about punctures. Also because I have the innerlock in the wheels I can run at very low PSI and get a good footprint. I never considered heat to be a potential issue, what are the chances of heat building up to a point of critical failure on dirt roads? Or do they just wear quicker?
I think when these tires wear out I will consider going back to the stock wheels and putting some 255/80/17 on them. Order them from the states if I have to. This way I can lose most of the weight and still have a good footprint for off road. My only concern with this is that with a 2" lift and bigger tires without the offset increase, would it be too unstable on the road? I'm not sure.
That was a massive increase in width, that’s probably the biggest culprit of your fuel loss
It was mention somewhere 2ply vs 3 ply…the 3ply is actually 150% stronger. Better for rocky and lava roads.
I live in Hawaii. My off roading is mainly going to my fishing spots on lava roads and trails…we need the extra protection on the sidewalks!
3 ply is my choice always!
so, a 275/70r17 3ply that weighs 25,4kg versus a 285/70/r17 2ply that weighs 23,3kg same tire? which one consumes less fuel?
2ply vs3 ply..means the 3ply will be better in coming home when some of those trails that gets extra rocky in those few small spots..
It’s alway those few bad spots we need the better/ & stronger tires, a lift, good shocks…and lockers or limited slips.. fire roads not necessarily…
3 ply all day for heavy rigs. And proper bush work. If i run 2 ply sidewalls i destroy them after a while, 3 ply i have done sidewalls but a lot less. Keeping in mind not all tyres are created equal 3 ply or not...
Two plys, but carry 2 spares. Best compromise.
Wish there was a decent 2 ply AT tire in a 33”, or even a 35”.
Look at the D Load Range Toyo ATIII 34 X 10.5 X 17... measures 33.5", 10.6" wide and weighs 55 lb
Now, can someone equate the 2 or 3 plies to U.S. Load Ranges? C, D, E and F? I realize that, typically, E Load Range has been equated to an antiquated "10-ply", but these are no longer made. Today's E Load Range are typically 3 poly plies...
It really depends on your wheel diameter but there are definitely 2ply ATs in 33s. Im running toyo open country RT trail in p295/55r20
2 ply tire in 35?
Im sorry to say this, but you've been misspelling tires for years now
3 play last longer if you tow/haul.
Let your "expert" talk mate. Less, yes, yea, yes and mmmmmm's. Jeez, I wanted to hear the dude!
2 sets of wheels solves it. You’ll fit the muddies when you need them and the others for the rest of the time. Pam your trip and for what’s needed.
I wish the guy was talking proper English and not mumbling.
I didn't have any issues understanding either of them
Never again Toyo ATs. Blow out at any time. Dont trust them. Absolutely garbage. A bitumen road only tyre.