Curt teches sandblast prep
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 มี.ค. 2022
- Curt is teaching Wesley how to prep, panel, and glue a 2x1 foot stone for sandblast engraving.
Our Website: northcountrymemorials.com/
Our Facebook: / northcountrymemorials
In the spring of 1991, a childhood dream came out of Curt Christman's mind and became a reality. Lewis County Monuments was started in 2007, and the name was changed to North County Memorials Inc. to better facilitate the current vision of serving Northern NY. Currently, Curt and his eldest son Christian are in a partnership operating the monument business. This small business has endured the ups and downs that all businesses encounter. Come along and enjoy the ride!!
You are very kind with the young people.
Nice to keep the trade going
Curt loves working with people and teaching.
I just started learning this trade. This video couldn't have come at a better time.
Glad it was helpfull let us konw if you have any questoins.
I'm learning how to do final "dearh" dates could you show some on how you match fonts and get everything laid out in the cemetery.
@@dennismanuwal2757 Here is the playlist of cemetery engraving work from last summer I will be doing more about it this comming summer. th-cam.com/play/PLo4-KsB8LXRvgY6dFa3gaY5HoRhN7iPTv.html
This was a good long video with great content which was nice, but I wanted to see past them peeling the letters out and see a finished product for the stone!!
Noted!
th-cam.com/video/87ZCZpmVBSY/w-d-xo.html
Very informative, it is always helpful to see how things are done.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I liked watching thanks
Your very welcome I'm glad you enjoyed.
Great content! Keep it up!
Thanks we will do our best.
Very interesting!!
Glad you think so lots of diffrent steps alonge the way.
I use a dental pick for weeding out letters and dates, works great
I have thought abut trying something like that. What stencil do you use?
Awesome video:) keep it up!
Thank you! Will do!
Use Clairol black hair color on stencil will make letters and carvings show up really well to pick up out. That and a paper towel with a little dab will go a long way
That's a good Idea I think it would do the trick.
I love the tip about the "dirty" glove to expose/identify the cut lines. I have experimented with a variety of things, such as string line chalk, with varying degrees of success. Since I do exclusively final dates in the field, the sun's angle frequently creates problems. The most common method I have seen is rubbing dirt from the ground on the stencil, and that is not 100% effective.
Nice video.
Thanks some times domb luck is the best way lol.
Purple highlighter marker over all edges, a quick wipe with acetone or xylene and all the edges stand out
try sinterball... 20/40 grit gives an amazing finish when dusting
we just put in a steel shot booth.
Sinterball is the best. Works for months.
Use a paint heat gun to dry the glue fast. We use that or a fan when it gets warmer
Hey thats a good idea it would defintly speed the drying up.
can also hit it with a lighter quick especially if you use white gas to thin
Lithichrome solvent is all I ever use to thin stone filler. Low VOC solvents do not permit it to fully dry, and make an absolute mess.
Not sure we have ever tried Lithichrome solvent. Have to give it a go.
rubber solvent they use at tire repair works great @@-gravestonepros
Should have left the cross polished and you need to adjust you’re plotter you’re going to deep and are cutting the mylar
Always adjusting the plotter settings.
How many seal kits you go trough a year on that Marco?
we replace the washers aobut 2 times a year.
Why not just finish the stones after you do everything else instead of taking the stencil off and sandblasting and then putting back on? Just seems like more work
It is more work but its the very best sharp edged letters this way.
What size stencil cutter and vinyl is best to start with
Our average stone is 20 inches tall so at least 20 inches I would say.
why would you steel the sides of a marker? unless it has a base for some reason
it was not a flush marker.
Leave the stencil in, pull the knife through backwards, and then drag the knife back through blade down. Works wonders....
Do you do that to score it first befor cutting?
Yeah we used to double process, a lot but moved away from it when we started using clay with our mud for flashing.
How all don’t talk about stencil and what psi and aluminum oxide
Over 100 videos I have talked about all that stuff. Keep watching :D
Why do you hammer it?
It helps the stencil stick to the glued better.
use you dust collectings or chalk your rubber to see it better
That's kind of what we have started doing with the old dirty glove.
Are you guys using #2 or # 3 filler?
We use ancor #211 hope this helps.
Thank you! Do you have to wash it off afterwards or does it peel up pretty good with the stencil? Thanks again
@@nathanraphael5116 depends on your face texture Will come off much easier on polish than a dusted face. 3m #2 is nice as well.. #3 is die cut youll need to mix it.
@@nathanraphael5116 We always wash it after its done.
Also put that glue on before you pull your panel....
That would work ok.
Beats trying to keep the glue off the polish...
yeah smart to patch before you pull
To me, this seems a bit backward. Flashing the panel, then putting the stencil back on to sink the letters, then paint black. I have some of that stencil here, but I just don't like it. I use the 722. Loved the 520. I'm now a contractor and work in the field. Also tbe reasons why I don't like this process is probably because I've taught myself everything I know. Even polishing and making custom stones. Or turning one stone into a completely different stone.
This has been the top way for years double proses makes the letter edges a little more crisp. It does take a little more work thought.
As they said, this is double process. It's definitely the most straightforward approach for clean edges and shadowing/litho. If you have more than one person involved, double process is the way to go. If you're on your own, you can do 1 1/2. But you better know how to peel that stencil off and the film cleanly, as well as know how to hit the panels softly to not round the edges. You'll also have to be able to place back the stencil to shadow/litho. This is much more difficult. But it can save time and $ if you know how to. If not, it will be a nightmare that double completely avoids. 1 1/2 also allows for more polish options. You can leave polish on different pieces of artwork that double usually removes.
But again, that's playing a game on a more difficult setting, lol!
@The Recovering Artist when I worked at the shop. We would blast the deep sunk, tben paint black. Let paint dry. Then, pull off the stencil panels, fill the letters with clay, and then flash the panel. Then, use a water hose to wash the clay out. In the cemetery, I sink the letters, add paint, let dry, and add some more paint. Then, I stand back and flash the panel. I don't lose any of the paint. And in 8 years, I've had zero complaints. The video shows us a different way of doing this. Which is good. Every time I've ever trained someone, I always tried to teach every way I knew how to get the end result, so then they could pick what works for them.
Where r u based ?
@@noblemoyo8865Upstate NY
Having a panel not lift out easy can get frustrating.
Yes definitely no fun
we cut the panel first before putting it on then tape it back into the rubber than apply to stone so easy
oh by the way we are
Warren Monument lacated in Rhode Island@@-gravestonepros
stop using glue when you first cut youll be fine.
@@michaellamberton8331 Not sure what you mean by first cut?