Basic Sailboat Plumbing System - Pearson Triton Osprey Refit Part 11
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2024
- Tour of the installation of plumbing, including deck rain water collection, water tanks and foot pump, locker drains, and bilge pumps on a Pearson Triton sailboat.
Man! Fresh bilge paint, brand new hoses and hose clamps; seems like you have put some good solid thought into the design. Bravo, sir; she looks very ship shape. I'm looking for ideas/education to refit my Pearson 35 and can only hope it looks anywhere near as bright as this lovely Triton.
Thanks for sharing and the time required to put these together. Always very organized and comprehensive.
The detail and beauty of this retrofit is outstanding! So clean, accessable, and practical. Gives me lessons, inspiration, and work to do. Thank you
Truly one of the cleanest bilges and jobs I have ever seen. nice!
You do some amazing work.
Very nice work as always.
A great inspiration to those of us learning from you.
Thank you for taking the time to document it.
Once again, ty for sharing your videos. I learn something new every time.
James you do such nice work, plus you make it easy for me to follow along...thanks and cheers!
I especially liked the bearded man sucking on the anchor locker drain where it exits under the forward water tank @4.58 😁
Great lookin work James, as usual !
I drain Spirit's bilge hoses the same way,
Funny, the outboard well was your idea too, both work very well!
This is the best sailboat plumbing video, bar none! I have watched it many times. Thank you so much...I am basing my system off of it...I'm almost ready to start, LMAO!
Cheers and Favorable winds.
Wow great run through. Lots of great options. Thank you!
Fantastic video thanks for the tour
Great work!
Yes it’s fantastic video....wish could come and work with you.
Have you ever seen a manual bilge pump used to pump water for a shower from rainwater jugs, but use some kind of quick disconnects so that you use it as a backup in case of emergencies?
I haven't seen a bilge pump directly supplying a shower but have thought about using a whale baby foot pump from the tank direct to a shower nozzle. In cold weather I have used a solar shower bag inside for a simple gravity feed shower. If you need to stand inside rather than sit and don't have height for that you can leave the bag on deck and run the nozzle thru a portlight. Or build a shelf in the overhead or use a net to hold the bag up high horizontally might work.
Always love you videos. Such great restoration ideas. I'm wondering about the size of drain/hose you are using for the watertight compartments. I have a single large hold under whole forward half of the vbirth on my hunter. It has built water tight to a bulkhead at the forward end of the keystone cushion with no limberhole. While I'm in there installing the new tank I want to add drainage, but want to keep it controlled as you do on your boats. But how large? 1/2in? Is there a scenario that I would be regretting it not being bigger? Such as the compartment flooding and the drain valve letting out water slower than my main bilge pump can pump?
Good question. I don't think the pumps I installed can pump faster than what a 1/2" or 5/8" hose can deliver to the bilge. You have to consider the actual rate of the pump minus friction and amount of lift rather than its rating. And since these lockers are mostly subdivided into small lockers and more or less watertight to the tops, which are usually several inches above the waterline, it's less important to keep running the pump faster than intake of water. Rather than run a pump nonstop for who knows how long, even if we had the power and the pump didn't burn out, it's more realistic to seal the locker and not drain it until repairs can be made. It doesn't take much to have a leak that lets in more water than your pump and power source on a small boat can reasonably deliver so at some point, upsizing the pump is futile. But if you have a large locker without a sealed top and want the ability to drain it as fast as you can for a limited time then I think 3/4" would be a good choice.
Very Elegant. I plan on using some of your innovations when I find an Alberg 30 to restore.. if anyone knows of one needing lots of love.. message me!
Agreed, super clean install and layout.
Cawfee Dawg
Have you found an A30?
What is your potable water filter of choice James (have you found a form factor or other device than the Glacier Bay)? - 08:52
I use whatever household water filter is in stock that is similar to the one shown here. I bought one at Home Depot a few months ago that was a different brand but it takes the same charcoal filter size. Also make sure you get the threaded hose nipples that will fit the filter and the size hose you plan to use. There are probably other good filter types out there but I wanted these since they have relatively inexpensive replacement filters that are commonly available.
I noticed that you always go with 6hp. Is there a reason why you don’t go with a 9.9hp, say by Yamaha where the cowlings are small and the weight is around 89 pounds? Seems like the extra power would come in handy on a strong current. What are your thoughts?
We're trying to keep motor size, weight and cost to a minimum. The Triton will motor at 5.5k with the 6hp and even though it doesn't have the reserve power of the 9.9 to maintain that speed in waves and headwinds I find it adequate for this size boat. Currents are less important than wind/waves because the boat is only going to do maybe 6.5k no matter how large the motor. The only specs I could find on the Yamaha T9.9 were 93 lbs dry weight for the 20" shaft. The 25" will weigh more. It's too large and heavy to fit the space on this boat and looks like the extra long tiller handle is too long to fit. I have put a Nissan 9.8 into an Alberg 30 but haven't seen a size/weight comparison to the T9.9 to know if it would fit also.
The new 9.9 Tohatsu with the fuel injection is unreal. No more carb issues. My 27 has a newer Yamaha 9.9 20 inch shaft. I sail on the Pacific so the extra torque helps. My boat was built for the outboard. Lighter than those full keels you are modifying. Love your work.
Which brand/type of multi sealant caulk are you using on the hose connections?
Multi-caulk from West Marine.
what does it cost to have you rebuild a Triton or similar boat to the standards of you Atom?
The cost to refit a Triton like Atom and similar boats we've done varies a lot depending on how much work the owner has contributed, the choices they make on jobs needed, and what condition and what good work had already been done before we got the boat. In general though it takes me the equivalent of about 6 months working full time with labor based on $50/hr. It's not cheap and for most owners its not in their budget so I'm doing this series of videos to help those that may want to do similar work themselves.
@@atomvoyager And that is very kind of you. Thank you.
Obrigado
Cockpit seat locker drains exit down by the footwell. So if the boat is heeled, water will accumulate at the drain bend rather than go UP to footwell? Why not drain directly out? Also footwell scuppers drain below waterline? Cant move exit to above waterline? At least youve got seacocks on them
In practice they drain fine when heeled and I had plenty of time to observe it during two circumnavigations on the sister ship Atom. The main reason we didn't make separate drains above the waterline was because the boat already had the fiberglass T joining the three drains to one and decided to reuse it. The footwell being so close to the waterline complicates the issue of other options. It may not be possible to drain everything including footwell above waterline so a seacock would be required installed below the waterline but not where existing tube is because there is no clearance. If I did another Triton I might try to rebuild the footwell floor angle to drain aft into the outboard well or thru transom with flap valves to reduce back flooding then join the deck and cockpit seat drains to an above water thru-hull as you suggested. Reason we didn't do it here was to save a large amount of labor and not lose the scant headroom under boom and bimini. As I mentioned in the comments on the other video, the only reason the fiberglass tubes could be connected directly from hull to footwell is because they are in a corner supported by two bulkheads and within a watertight locker. Any other situation then it shouldn't be done so it's good you point that out.
@@atomvoyager I'm dealing with same issue myself on '67 Pearson 35, your site and videos have been quite interesting. I have to decide about moving scuppers up above wl soon or at least put seacocks sailingwhimsy.com
Basic sailboat plumbing.
Would this work? The EcoPure Valve-In-Head Whole Home Water Filtration System (EPW2VC)
Yes that will work. Looks like the equivalent to what I used.
Maybe try a battery flashlight next video the clanking of the trouble light is louder than the narration?