Thanks for this informative video - I love loose lay - recently finished a bedroom - it was easy to install ( a Roberts laminate cutter helped with end cuts)
I have loose lay in my master bedroom and find it sticks to my bare feet and literally lifts off the floor! I'm building a new home and don't want this to happen. I guess i should install the loose lay and the pressure sensitive adhesive? Or is there a permanent adhesive?
Hmmm, sorry - thought my reply had gone through! Correct, it's the pressure sensitive adhesive that will hold it down (and stop it from moving around). Pressure sensitive is a permanent adhesive - it's just that it allows for easy repair of the floor should that be required. You can also use a wet-set adhesive, where you install the LVP into the glue while it's still wet (as opposed to after it has flashed over with pressure sensitive). The challenge is two-fold. 1 - Wet set is dirty to work with. Wear clothes that you don't care if they get covered in glue - they will. 2 - Repairs aren't easy. Instead of a heat gun, you will need a hammer and chisel.
Thanks for the great info. I just found out about loose-lay and I'm considering it for my house. I dont want to glue down, as the bedrooms still have original maple hardwood floor exposed and I'd like to preserve that floor in case anyone wants to refinish it later. I heard I can use a less invasive approach of using double sided tape around the room perimeter plus strips every 7 feet. Is this an acceptable approach?
Jeez! So sorry about this, for some reason I didn't get a notification! Completely agree - really a bad idea to wreck a perfectly good floor (that will help keep the value of your home when you go to sell!). As long as it's the 5mm Loose Lay (virgin vinyl and fiberglass in the core) you should be set as long as you make sure of the following... #1 - Flatness of the subfloor. You're going to have to make sure that the floor is flat to within 1/8" (3mm) over 6'. With a full spread glue, this isn't as necessary (but still gives a better end look) - but with a loose lay, you need to make sure that it's flat. Otherwise the boards can both have edges tipped up and have a tendency to move. #2 - Make sure that the double sided tape is made for vinyl flooring. The one that I've used in the past is Congoleum QuickStik Tape - but as long as it's made for vinyl you should be set!
@@GRFlooring Awesome, thanks for the help! The floor is very flat and it's only the two small bedrooms, so I feel much better about trying this now. I would refinish that old maple hardwood, but the rest or the maple in the home was covered in lino decades ago, and I don't want to touch it due to probable asbestos. Thanks again.
i have a not-very level at all, but somewhat flat basement im considering flooring for. i like the looselay for the fact of surface. that said, i still want to do an underlayment, for a bit of insulation and a better feel. can you recommend an underlyament and the related glue for looselay ?
The main underlays used for LVP are not really there for insulation, but more to protect an existing floor - or provide a bit of sound protection (such as in multi level buildings). If you're looking for insulation, you'd probably be wanting to look into the Dricore product, but I cannot say that we have any experience with those.
Just Me well, it would cause issues for a click system. Murphy’s Law would make certain that the joints would be on those soft spots and would eventually break away. So your options (in our opinion) would be a glue down loose lay or to patch / repair the soft spots and use whatever you want. Just keep in mind that even with a glue down lvp, you will still have softness in the floor - but at least it would confirm to it. Otherwise, find out what’s causing the spots - hopefully just a dip, and then you could patch it with some Ardex Feather Finish or something similar.
3 questions.does loose lay come in lifelong pre waxed finish or do they need waxing? do they come in 28ml scratch proof wear layer. are they furniture dent proof
LVP comes completely prefinished and does not require any waxing or recoating. Unfortunately no product is truly scratch proof - while they are very durable and can handle the wear and tear of normal life. As long as the furniture has flooring protectors on the legs, there should be no issues with denting. This is for LVP - now there is a similar product called WPC, and while it is very durable, the core can be pretty soft so that very heavy furniture such as pianos can cause dents/marks.
Whats the best for heavy set ppl livinf in tx (humid and hot) off and on. ..pets, moisture...heat lol... So if im right i want 5mm thick or better, Loose lay Lvp or lvt? How thick a wear layer minimum and i need to know should i glue or float?
Hi, thank you so much for the informative video. I'm currently remodeling my entire first floor apartment and I need to do the flooring for the living room dining room and three bedrooms in the closet as well as kitchen bathroom Pantry room in back hallway and I was thinking of doing the clicking log for living room dining room bedrooms because I hadn't heard and read online that click and lock is much more stable and durable than the glue down system. And I'm especially for the bathroom which is super important that everything is sealed correctly because I don't want any leakage I also thought that click and lock was the way to go. Why do some people thinks that the Quicken walk is so much better than the glue down vinyl? Also if I'm doing vinyl tile in the bathroom what would you suggest click and lock or glue down? And in order to make sure that no water seeps through it all do I need to put some sort of top water resistant coating or material on top of the vinyl in order to steal all of the gaps?
Great information. I would like to do my RV trailer and would like something not so thick as 5mm because of the slide out do you have any suggestions? Thanks
I was wondering have you used goodfellow loose lay made in China.. The price point on sale seems very good.. But the reviews I have seen, says it is not very good flooring.. Has anyone used this brand in Loose lay? Is it a good product? 4.5 mm
I cannot say that we do. Most of our LVP is made in Korea. The key to make sure of is that it has emulsified Fiberglas in the core. Not just a sheet of Fiberglas or a mesh. You want it to be a part of the floor, not an afterthought.
Good morning, Yes - you should, just in case there is some spillage or splashing from the toilet, or sink, tub, shower, etc. Just use a good silicone and you are set!
@@GRFlooring No thanks. I finally found out that mine is glued down, not floating. The sub floor supposedly was not mixed properly and therefore has disintegrated into fine white powder. This powder is coming up daily through the seams between the vinyl planks. I have asthma, so... And planks are coming loose. It's a dlilemma for me because I am disabled and ill and can't move out for them (apt complex) to redo the floors.
Thanks for sharing some knowledge. Stay safe and peace ✌🏻 from Alberta Canada 🇨🇦
Thanks for this informative video - I love loose lay - recently finished a bedroom - it was easy to install ( a Roberts laminate cutter helped with end cuts)
Awesome - great work!
Great job comparing the 2 types of flooring.
Thank you! We try!
Excellent information. Thank you for sharing this.
Glad it was helpful!
I have loose lay in my master bedroom and find it sticks to my bare feet and literally lifts off the floor! I'm building a new home and don't want this to happen. I guess i should install the loose lay and the pressure sensitive adhesive? Or is there a permanent adhesive?
Hmmm, sorry - thought my reply had gone through!
Correct, it's the pressure sensitive adhesive that will hold it down (and stop it from moving around). Pressure sensitive is a permanent adhesive - it's just that it allows for easy repair of the floor should that be required. You can also use a wet-set adhesive, where you install the LVP into the glue while it's still wet (as opposed to after it has flashed over with pressure sensitive). The challenge is two-fold.
1 - Wet set is dirty to work with. Wear clothes that you don't care if they get covered in glue - they will.
2 - Repairs aren't easy. Instead of a heat gun, you will need a hammer and chisel.
Good recommendation to bring / buy a panel home
Thanks for the great info. I just found out about loose-lay and I'm considering it for my house. I dont want to glue down, as the bedrooms still have original maple hardwood floor exposed and I'd like to preserve that floor in case anyone wants to refinish it later. I heard I can use a less invasive approach of using double sided tape around the room perimeter plus strips every 7 feet. Is this an acceptable approach?
Jeez! So sorry about this, for some reason I didn't get a notification!
Completely agree - really a bad idea to wreck a perfectly good floor (that will help keep the value of your home when you go to sell!). As long as it's the 5mm Loose Lay (virgin vinyl and fiberglass in the core) you should be set as long as you make sure of the following...
#1 - Flatness of the subfloor. You're going to have to make sure that the floor is flat to within 1/8" (3mm) over 6'. With a full spread glue, this isn't as necessary (but still gives a better end look) - but with a loose lay, you need to make sure that it's flat. Otherwise the boards can both have edges tipped up and have a tendency to move.
#2 - Make sure that the double sided tape is made for vinyl flooring. The one that I've used in the past is Congoleum QuickStik Tape - but as long as it's made for vinyl you should be set!
@@GRFlooring Awesome, thanks for the help! The floor is very flat and it's only the two small bedrooms, so I feel much better about trying this now. I would refinish that old maple hardwood, but the rest or the maple in the home was covered in lino decades ago, and I don't want to touch it due to probable asbestos. Thanks again.
Perfect! Good luck!
i have a not-very level at all, but somewhat flat basement im considering flooring for. i like the looselay for the fact of surface. that said, i still want to do an underlayment, for a bit of insulation and a better feel. can you recommend an underlyament and the related glue for looselay ?
The main underlays used for LVP are not really there for insulation, but more to protect an existing floor - or provide a bit of sound protection (such as in multi level buildings). If you're looking for insulation, you'd probably be wanting to look into the Dricore product, but I cannot say that we have any experience with those.
I have some "soft spots" in my older house that dips when you walk over them. I assume the click would be something to stay away from?
Just Me well, it would cause issues for a click system. Murphy’s Law would make certain that the joints would be on those soft spots and would eventually break away.
So your options (in our opinion) would be a glue down loose lay or to patch / repair the soft spots and use whatever you want.
Just keep in mind that even with a glue down lvp, you will still have softness in the floor - but at least it would confirm to it.
Otherwise, find out what’s causing the spots - hopefully just a dip, and then you could patch it with some Ardex Feather Finish or something similar.
3 questions.does loose lay come in lifelong pre waxed finish or do they need waxing? do they come in 28ml scratch proof wear layer. are they furniture dent proof
LVP comes completely prefinished and does not require any waxing or recoating.
Unfortunately no product is truly scratch proof - while they are very durable and can handle the wear and tear of normal life.
As long as the furniture has flooring protectors on the legs, there should be no issues with denting. This is for LVP - now there is a similar product called WPC, and while it is very durable, the core can be pretty soft so that very heavy furniture such as pianos can cause dents/marks.
Hi there, what brand glue do you recommend for the 5 mil loose lay planks?
Hi Eddy, thanks for reaching out. Our current go-to adhesive is Shaw 5100.
Whats the best for heavy set ppl livinf in tx (humid and hot) off and on.
..pets, moisture...heat lol... So if im right i want
5mm thick or better,
Loose lay
Lvp or lvt? How thick a wear layer minimum and i need to know should i glue or float?
I just wanted to see it installed
JDaddyTV alrighty, I will start on that!
where are you located......Google shows several GR Flooring locations...eg Canada and NYC?
I wish! No, I’m sure there are others out there. But we are based in Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada.
Hi, thank you so much for the informative video. I'm currently remodeling my entire first floor apartment and I need to do the flooring for the living room dining room and three bedrooms in the closet as well as kitchen bathroom Pantry room in back hallway and I was thinking of doing the clicking log for living room dining room bedrooms because I hadn't heard and read online that click and lock is much more stable and durable than the glue down system. And I'm especially for the bathroom which is super important that everything is sealed correctly because I don't want any leakage I also thought that click and lock was the way to go. Why do some people thinks that the Quicken walk is so much better than the glue down vinyl? Also if I'm doing vinyl tile in the bathroom what would you suggest click and lock or glue down? And in order to make sure that no water seeps through it all do I need to put some sort of top water resistant coating or material on top of the vinyl in order to steal all of the gaps?
this was so helpful, thank you!
Great information. I would like to do my RV trailer and would like something not so thick as 5mm because of the slide out do you have any suggestions? Thanks
We just finished installing in a trailer. Love it. Only complication is keeping the floor warm until the glue cures.
I was wondering have you used goodfellow loose lay made in China.. The price point on sale seems very good.. But the reviews I have seen, says it is not very good flooring.. Has anyone used this brand in Loose lay? Is it a good product? 4.5 mm
I cannot say that we do. Most of our LVP is made in Korea.
The key to make sure of is that it has emulsified Fiberglas in the core. Not just a sheet of Fiberglas or a mesh. You want it to be a part of the floor, not an afterthought.
Ok so in a bathroom once you cut around toilet flange and reinstall toilet do you have to caulk around toilet?
Good morning,
Yes - you should, just in case there is some spillage or splashing from the toilet, or sink, tub, shower, etc. Just use a good silicone and you are set!
The close ups are so close that I can't even see what I am looking at. I can't see the context.
We work on that! Any specific questions that I could answer?
@@GRFlooring No thanks. I finally found out that mine is glued down, not floating. The sub floor supposedly was not mixed properly and therefore has disintegrated into fine white powder. This powder is coming up daily through the seams between the vinyl planks. I have asthma, so... And planks are coming loose.
It's a dlilemma for me because I am disabled and ill and can't move out for them (apt complex) to redo the floors.