Yeah, I had one of those, and the Heathkit LCR Bridge, both in that style plastic case. I wish I still had them. And, yeah, they were basic, but the kit instructions had the parts list, and the schematic. No paying for Sam’s/Ryder’s service info. I enjoyed building the Heathkit kits.
That signal tracer picking up radio stations reminds me of when I set up a sound system for our church near downtown Houston. Soon as I plugged the microphone into the mixer console I started picking up a sports station.
Glad to see you making videos again. And I agree the price of 9-volt batteries has gone through the roof. Unfortunately unless you have an antique transistor radio the only other common use is in your smoke detector. Supply and demand I suppose.
Just bought one off eBay ... seller said it worked but I'll see .. also got a IG-5280 RF oscillator and got it working. It was missing a 47pF cap in the RF ourput stage ..??? but the price was right and I have the original full Heathkit manual for it as well. I hope the signal tracer is in good shape too. Thank you for the video
I found an old Heathkit oscilloscope a decade ago, and I don't think it's working properly but the electron beam does still project. This is the first other piece of equipment of theirs I've ever seen (I'm only 28 though so much younger than either of these devices).
I used that model in college to do stereo repairs to earn a little pocket money. It was very useful. The internal speaker is a little rough, and the unit would benefit from a better external speaker. That is my observation from using it extensively about 40 years ago. It's a great unit for what it is in my opinion. I still have mine, and it still works.
@@SDsailor7 You follow the signal path from the source to the speaker output. You can also do it from the speaker to the signal source. Somewhere along the way, you will find the problem.
That guy on fleebay who makes those probes is really good at it. Priced accordingly. Damn useful device if put together correctly! There is a manual online. Remember this is a laboratoy not a commercial grade device. Good advice at the end; they should have put a LED on it to indicate whether it is on or off!
15:00 No load on three audio output transformer. Possibly the radio is inductively coupling to the signal tracer via the audio output transformer and the input circuitry and wiring in the tracer. Also there is no resistor in series with the probe tip in the RF probe which introduces the input impedance and capacitance of the probe and tracer into the radio or device under test circuitry. I've noticed through the years the variations on RF/IF probes. 33 k to 100 k-ohm resistor in series with the tip of the RF probe mightv correct the trouble.
very interesting and informative. I remember this series of Heathkit test gear, also an oscilloscope, sine/square wave generator and VOM. I recall the external power supply had five output leads with molex connectors for each device. The Emerson radio you were testing, the signal tracer was detecting the broadcast and not connected to the chassis. The tracer was acting as a receiver, was it possible the miss wiring on the shielded wiring and ground to the PCB might have acted an antenna? As mentioned not any shielding inside the case or around the chassis.
I have that exact signal tracer that I built in the mid 70's. I also have the matching RF signal generator. I think I have an Eico signal tracer that I built in the late 70's
The original probe for these has a 1N4149 silicon high speed diode in series with a 1000pf capacitor. The custom probe you bought is using a 1N34A germanium diode. I wonder if the difference in diodes is causing some of your problems? Also, mine did not come with the metal shield when I built it in 1983. As sensitive as this tracer is, I have to wonder if that was a later improvement?
I built a Heathkit audio signal generator that had the same case around 1987 or 1988. I had to do a double take looking at it and saw the difference but it was an excellent piece to check guitar amplifiers.
If you look closely, this probe has that capacitor in series also. BUT, the original had a 1N4149 silicon switching diode in it, while the probe in this video has a 1N34A germanium diode. Maybe that germanium is not quite compatible, explaining why the tracer works on some radios, but not others??
I'm sorry, but I had to laugh at your comments throughout the video. Yes, a 10% chance of rain is a 100% chance of rain if a person is working on something. :)
I had the RF generator. It was a sweet unit. I can see that there are issues with the design of the signal tracer. Some it seems are due to the low impedance of the input. The original used tubes which are inherently higher impedance. I'd say if you intent to use it for tube circuits, add a unity gain FET amplifier on the input.
I rescued an old cartridge by spraying WD-40 where the needle bridge is and rubbing the bridge working the WD-40 inside the cartridge. It was a great surprise I never thought it would work. Standard practice is to throw them away and buy a new one but you can't get them as easy anymore. I saved three that way but one was too stubborn I'll let the WD-40 work on it overnight and try again tomorrow. I'm trying to save an RCA cartridge and WD-40 restored it from being completely dead to working good on the left channel but the right channel has a tiny spot where pressure on the needle causes a bad connection. It plays but if you listen carefully it barely cuts out as the needle pulls the tone arm against the reject trip mechanism. It's aggravating maybe tomorrow the WD-40 will work out the black oxidation that migrated into the ceramic element. On the other two cartridges both channels are completely restored with no bad spots. It may not work all the time but it's worth a shot maybe deoxit will fix the stubborn ones
Hello, Brian! May I make a suggestion.....Never buy off-brand batteries- they are terrible! My favorite is Ray-O-Vac carbon-zinc. All things considered, they are the best. Easy to find at Big Lots- other stores may not have them. Good price batteries, and they won't let you down, so they are great value.
This sounds like 👍 some sort of equipment that radio 📻 stations 🚉 may have used at one ☝️ time. Maybe 🤔 for bringing in the signal 🪧 to make listening 👂 to shortwave possible. Those stations 🚉 are pretty 😍 well dead 💀 today. Your friend, Jeff.
These days I tend to prefer the good old fashioned "heavy duty" zinc chloride cells vs. alkalines because they don't leak. Modern alkalines are all garbage and leak very quickly, even in the package. Usually I need them in something that will not have a battery change for years (i.e. remote or thermostat) and the heavy duty ones work just fine in these use cases. For things I used to use alkalines in, I use rechargables now and everything else comes with built in lithium ions. Had way too many things destroyed by alkalines so I don't use them any more. In multimeters I put those expensiveish lithium 9V batteries. they will not leak and they last years so it tends to be worth it.
I have had the same problem with alkaline batteries- they might last longer than carbon-zinc, but they leak before going completely dead, so I have to keep checking them. I use Ray-O-Vac carbon-zinc on most everything now. All things considered, they are the best. Hard to find in most stores, but if you go to Big Lots, they have lots of them.
Yeah, I had one of those, and the Heathkit LCR Bridge, both in that style plastic case. I wish I still had them. And, yeah, they were basic, but the kit instructions had the parts list, and the schematic. No paying for Sam’s/Ryder’s service info. I enjoyed building the Heathkit kits.
I love the simplicity of it. Basic but gets the job done.
That signal tracer picking up radio stations reminds me of when I set up a sound system for our church near downtown Houston. Soon as I plugged the microphone into the mixer console I started picking up a sports station.
Great to see you back, I have really missed you.
Glad to see you making videos again.
And I agree the price of 9-volt batteries has gone through the roof. Unfortunately unless you have an antique transistor radio the only other common use is in your smoke detector. Supply and demand I suppose.
Good to see you back
Glad to see you back with another's video. I really enjoy your record player videos. I hope all is well with you.
Have really missed you. Glad to see you're back again.
Thank you very much.
Just bought one off eBay ... seller said it worked but I'll see .. also got a IG-5280 RF oscillator and got it working. It was missing a 47pF cap in the RF ourput stage ..??? but the price was right and I have the original full Heathkit manual for it as well. I hope the signal tracer is in good shape too. Thank you for the video
I bought the same probes from the same guy ... they are well made and well worth the cost ...
I found an old Heathkit oscilloscope a decade ago, and I don't think it's working properly but the electron beam does still project. This is the first other piece of equipment of theirs I've ever seen (I'm only 28 though so much younger than either of these devices).
I used that model in college to do stereo repairs to earn a little pocket money. It was very useful. The internal speaker is a little rough, and the unit would benefit from a better external speaker. That is my observation from using it extensively about 40 years ago. It's a great unit for what it is in my opinion. I still have mine, and it still works.
How do you use the probe to find out what caused an output channel to go out on a stereo receiver?
Thank you
And does the stereo has to be powered on?
Thank you
@@SDsailor7 You follow the signal path from the source to the speaker output. You can also do it from the speaker to the signal source. Somewhere along the way, you will find the problem.
@@SDsailor7 You follow the signal path with your probe. Yes, the unit under testing has to be turned on.
@@Amp497 Thank you i will try that.
Cheers
That guy on fleebay who makes those probes is really good at it. Priced accordingly. Damn useful device if put together
correctly! There is a manual online. Remember this is a laboratoy not a commercial grade device. Good advice at the end;
they should have put a LED on it to indicate whether it is on or off!
Very interesting and informative video.
15:00 No load on three audio output transformer. Possibly the radio is inductively coupling to the signal tracer via the audio output transformer and the input circuitry and wiring in the tracer. Also there is no resistor in series with the probe tip in the RF probe which introduces the input impedance and capacitance of the probe and tracer into the radio or device under test circuitry. I've noticed through the years the variations on RF/IF probes. 33 k to 100 k-ohm resistor in series with the tip of the RF probe mightv correct the trouble.
That's an incredibely usefull tool for quick diagnostics
very interesting and informative. I remember this series of Heathkit test gear, also an oscilloscope, sine/square wave generator and VOM. I recall the external power supply had five output leads with molex connectors for each device. The Emerson radio you were testing, the signal tracer was detecting the broadcast and not connected to the chassis. The tracer was acting as a receiver, was it possible the miss wiring on the shielded wiring and ground to the PCB might have acted an antenna? As mentioned not any shielding inside the case or around the chassis.
I have that exact signal tracer that I built in the mid 70's. I also have the matching RF signal generator. I think I have an Eico signal tracer that I built in the late 70's
The original probe for these has a 1N4149 silicon high speed diode in series with a 1000pf capacitor. The custom probe you bought is using a 1N34A germanium diode. I wonder if the difference in diodes is causing some of your problems? Also, mine did not come with the metal shield when I built it in 1983. As sensitive as this tracer is, I have to wonder if that was a later improvement?
I love this heathkit easy to build & simple but Wait till you see what i build as a signal tracer
what a neat piece of testing equipment
I built a Heathkit audio signal generator that had the same case around 1987 or 1988. I had to do a double take looking at it and saw the difference but it was an excellent piece to check guitar amplifiers.
PK cell makes very good batteries.
I believe the original probe's rf mode adds a small cap in series
If you look closely, this probe has that capacitor in series also. BUT, the original had a 1N4149 silicon switching diode in it, while the probe in this video has a 1N34A germanium diode. Maybe that germanium is not quite compatible, explaining why the tracer works on some radios, but not others??
Could use one of those.
I'm sorry, but I had to laugh at your comments throughout the video. Yes, a 10% chance of rain is a 100% chance of rain if a person is working on something. :)
Could you use the "Audible V/Ohm" for peaking IF transformers?
I had the RF generator. It was a sweet unit. I can see that there are issues with the design of the signal tracer. Some it seems are due to the low impedance of the input. The original used tubes which are inherently higher impedance. I'd say if you intent to use it for tube circuits, add a unity gain FET amplifier on the input.
Can't you just run a cable with a 0.1cap in it to an amp for a signal tracer?
I was thinking that, you just need the detector diode like in the RF probe.
Yes, but you might be disappointed with the gain. You would also need a switchable 1n60 diode for the AM RF circuits.
Cheap guitar amp with overdrive amp will work well.
So without the probes the unit is useless?
Not if you understand what you're doing.
I rescued an old cartridge by spraying WD-40 where the needle bridge is and rubbing the bridge working the WD-40 inside the cartridge. It was a great surprise I never thought it would work. Standard practice is to throw them away and buy a new one but you can't get them as easy anymore. I saved three that way but one was too stubborn I'll let the WD-40 work on it overnight and try again tomorrow. I'm trying to save an RCA cartridge and WD-40 restored it from being completely dead to working good on the left channel but the right channel has a tiny spot where pressure on the needle causes a bad connection. It plays but if you listen carefully it barely cuts out as the needle pulls the tone arm against the reject trip mechanism. It's aggravating maybe tomorrow the WD-40 will work out the black oxidation that migrated into the ceramic element. On the other two cartridges both channels are completely restored with no bad spots. It may not work all the time but it's worth a shot maybe deoxit will fix the stubborn ones
Cool!
what ebay seller did you get that test lead from?
Hello, Brian! May I make a suggestion.....Never buy off-brand batteries- they are terrible! My favorite is Ray-O-Vac carbon-zinc. All things considered, they are the best. Easy to find at Big Lots- other stores may not have them. Good price batteries, and they won't let you down, so they are great value.
i have the manual and schematec
This sounds like 👍 some sort of equipment that radio 📻 stations 🚉 may have used at one ☝️ time. Maybe 🤔 for bringing in the signal 🪧 to make listening 👂 to shortwave possible. Those stations 🚉 are pretty 😍 well dead 💀 today. Your friend, Jeff.
These days I tend to prefer the good old fashioned "heavy duty" zinc chloride cells vs. alkalines because they don't leak. Modern alkalines are all garbage and leak very quickly, even in the package. Usually I need them in something that will not have a battery change for years (i.e. remote or thermostat) and the heavy duty ones work just fine in these use cases. For things I used to use alkalines in, I use rechargables now and everything else comes with built in lithium ions. Had way too many things destroyed by alkalines so I don't use them any more. In multimeters I put those expensiveish lithium 9V batteries. they will not leak and they last years so it tends to be worth it.
I just go rechargeables now. Ruined too many kids toys before I saw the light
I have had the same problem with alkaline batteries- they might last longer than carbon-zinc, but they leak before going completely dead, so I have to keep checking them. I use Ray-O-Vac carbon-zinc on most everything now. All things considered, they are the best. Hard to find in most stores, but if you go to Big Lots, they have lots of them.
Here is a link to a manual for this unit. www.rsp-italy.it/Electronics/Kits/_contents/Heathkit/Kits/Heathkit%20IT-5283%20signal%20tracer.pdf