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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- Video showing how to refit the diaphragm springs and vanos on a BMW S50B32 engine. This is not a simple job and I explain the pitfalls that can befall you if you attempt this task. Although I explain as much as I can, you should also read the Beisan instructions. If you post a question and get no reply, send an e-mail to vanos@porterbility.co.uk
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Thanks for the great video, really easy to follow. I have just done this to the same engine and followed your instructions to the letter, and the car feels much better. But I am getting the following cam readings: When car is off intake is at 60 (Nominal 55), exhaust is at 0 (Nominal 0), and at idle intake is at 0 (Nominal 0) and exhaust is at 4 (Nominal 0). Do you think this is down to bad timing or could it be something else?
I don't know what you mean by "car is off". There is the possiblity that the cam springs could be too loose or too tight. There's not much that you can do about that other than fit them properly, or completely remove them. If you remove them the chatter will be intolerable, but the cam will advance / retard very quickly.
Great video, when inserting the splines - is there a sweet spot ( I found that at a certain point one gets maximum travel of the hub from left to right. I have a video that I can share . Your guidance will be really appreciated.
From memory, there is only one spline that will properly align, but I did the job 7 years ago.
One more question, what is the air pressure check for? Is it to allow cams to move if incase you got the timing wrong ? Can't you just start all over and loosen the screws and unmesh vanos without having to use air?
Hi, I have attempted to align the exhaust camshaft sprocket several times according to your instructions from 3:17 onwards. The crankshaft is locked at OT and the camshafts are locked at TDC. When I attempt to slip the chain on the exhaust sprocket, the oval section of the sprocket does not align exactly as yours is shown in the video (i.e. at 1/4 position relative to the EXH cam trigger tooth). I would say my oval section sits at approximately 3/8 of the way from the bottom of the tooth. If I slip the chain on the sprocket 1 tooth forward, the oval is over 1/2 of the way from the tooth and if I slip the sprocket one tooth backward (by rotating the cam sprocket forward until it reaches that point) the start of the oval section ends up under the bottom of the trigger tooth.
With the exhaust camshaft set in this middle "3/8" position relative to the tooth, if I attempt to install other bolts for the VANOS hub, they are not fully accessible.
I am not sure what I am doing wrong and have attempted doing this several times. Can you suggest any other steps or checks so that I can be successful in setting up the VANOS? Thank you for the helpful and insightful video!
You may have to rotate the plate on to the next slot. It can take a lot of faffing to get the exhaust slot correctly aligned. You also need to have removed the chain tensioner before you can move the chain on the sprocket.
Hi! Is neccessary the specific timing tools for the s50b30 timing process? I’m looking for the tools and all of kits seems to fit both s54 and s50 and they are a bit suspicious …
You need to accurately lock the camshafts, They will move if you don't lock them. I don't know if S50 and S54 tools are the same.
First of all thanks for the great video, do you have any more info on that solenoid positioning tool? It looks homemade, did you make in yourself or get it somewhere?
I made all the special tools myself.
I am mostly through this and your Video is a life saver - however i may have made a mistake. I didnt have enough torque on the intake hub and the rotated the engine - the screws did as you said, went to the far end of the "slots" and made the intake cam timing go out. Would that have been enough timing to cause the valve to hit the piston during a "hand rotation" of the engine? apricate your help!
Sorry for the delay in reply, but the answer is "I don't know". I do remember having to turn the engine with the chain disconnected, and it wasn't easy. Crank 10 deg, inlet cam 20 deg, exhaust cam 20 deg, engine 10 deg...
What I don't understand is why does a certian tooth on the VANOS unit has to engate in the spline? they are all identical aren't they?
I thought so long as cams are a relative angle to each other which is set by the locking tool, you can just slide the VANOS in and it just retards or advances using oil pressure to push the plungers in or out? Is the goal to have the gears mesh into the splines when at full advance position ? and then the Vanos can retard by pushing the gears in?
I tried many times to fit the vanos..however the engine fire up amd running very rough at idle. The diagonistic tool told us the intake cam target at 60 however actual angle is 512. the exhaust target angle at 0 but actual at 453 degree.
We borrowed another car ehich idle smoothly, take off the vanos unit and the spine shafts and intall them again according to the video..and it idle roughly and having the same issue with this first car. Do you have any idea about that?
Unfortunately, without knowing EXACTLY what you have done, I can't really help. My only recommendation is to go back to the beginning and follow EVERY step EXACTLY as shown in the video. What diagnostic tool are you using? I recommend Testo.
where is the different in the vanos to s50b30?
Hi mate. I tried 3 times theese procedures but after vanos setting and all screws locking 10NM i turnet crankshaft 2 times and setted camshaft tool to slots but,
mark ()O|T avoided 5-6 degrees clockwise... please help☹
Make sure that you follow the instructions from 3:17 EXACTLY. If the hubs are in the wrong place, or the tension is relaxed, you will have the problems that you have got.
@@pingu393 thank you
When the camshafts are locket with the tool. Are they then spot on the markings on the first bearing cap?
I think you may be asking (in a round about way) if you can use the markings to position the camshafts - and not require the tool. The answer is "don't try to do this without the tool". The markings are only approximate. You could get close, but probably not close enough. As you can see in the video (8:28 - 9:00), the difference in camshaft degrees between aligned and misaligned is very small.
In case of S62 diaphragm spring plate in S50B32 the spring plate should be the other way around (cup against engine)? This is not mentioned in Beisan manual.
The video shows this at 6:27
That is a bit of a problem. Beisan systems manual requests the S62 plates:
www.beisansystems.com/procedures/euro_s50_double_vanos_rattle_procedure.htm
-> 2 x S62 sprocket hub diaphragm spring and pressure plate
--> Install new diaphragm spring, cup side down, into each sprocket hub
In your video the spring plate is the opposite way.
Not sure which instruction to follow or should I follow: Beisans or yours.
There is no BMW-approved replacement for the S50B32 diaphragm springs - the next higher assembly is a new engine!!. You can either fit S54 springs (11-36-7-830-684) or S62 springs (11-36-7-833-218). If you want to fit S54 or S62 diaphragm springs, it is at your risk (as with all modifications).
S54 springs are fitted the same way as the old ones are removed.
The ORIGINAL S62 diaphragm springs were fitted in the same way as the S50B32 springs. These springs are no longer available from BMW. The replacement (11-36-7-833-218) is fitted in reverse on the S62. I have assumed that this would be how they should also be fitted on the S50B32, and it is how they are fitted on my engine. I have had no problems.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for fast comments.
Looks like there is no major difference which way they are installed (I hope so). I go on now with the Beisan way forward, since they have proposed the S62 sets in beginning. I already upgraded the Vanos with their parts.
Anyway excellent video you have made, it has been very helpful!
What is the significance of fitting the S62 springs ??
S62 springs are stronger and they are available. S50 springs are not available.
No link for the valve clearances ??
th-cam.com/video/7JFEcR9x7nk/w-d-xo.html
Mate. Do yo have the part number for the camshaft locking tool? It looks like the same one as the E46 M3? Is it a genuine or aftermarket? Thanks heaps.
You will have to search eBay (or similar) for it. (Google Image "bmw S50B32 camshaft locking tool" shows lots). I did used to make them an will have the drawings somewhere. I'll post them after I put them on my website.
www.porterbility.co.uk
@@pingu393 Thanks. There seems to be heaps bit the beisian procedure says only use genuine. How precise do they need to be? Most on eBay say E36 and E46. But TIS has different part numbers and they look different. The one you use in this video appears to be the E46 one. That tells me they are the same??
Thanks again mate.
@@carlwindog3987 The important dimension is 119mm and the 6mm pins. When I made the tool, I used the graduations on a milling machine to measure the 119mm - eyeball and ruler isn't good enough. As to whether it is E36 or E46 - I don't know. Buy the one that looks like the one that I used. This is on eBay at the moment (193392286835).
@@pingu393 awesome mate. These videos are a life saver. Cheers.
Can't get my hub screws right? What am I doing wrong?
Look at the video from 3:16. You probably have to turn the hub relative to the camshaft. See th-cam.com/video/Mr2Jqnbkmw0/w-d-xo.html to see how to advance the sprocket relative to the hub.
@@pingu393 I did not remove the hubs I'll watch it and give it a shot tonight but am unsure how I managed to get them unaligned. My oil pump drive gear is in a different position than yours does that matter at all also?
@@pingu393 I am amazed to get my hub in the correct position although the exhaust hub lock ring is at 1:00 on the wrong side
@@marshalbrooks1450 The final position of the locking ring is not that important. The important thing is that the locking ring doesn't fall into the engine when it is removed or fitted.
One last question I appreciate you responding a bunch. Do my screws need to be in the exact same position as yours? They are off just barley I can still remove the srews with the hub's fully retarded
Is it nessisary to purge the vanos after install?
If you don't purge the VANOS there may still be come compressed air stored inside the VANOS. It's one of those things that is so easy to do that it is best to do it. Don't forget that you are only purging after an air test. You still have to connect the oil supply.
All I have to do is reinstall mine and I did not remove the hub's
@@marshalbrooks1450 Understood. The hubs only need to come off if you are replacing the springs. You only need to replace the springs if you want to stop the "chatter".
Do you know if the usa m3 cps would work on my s50b32?
I think that the S50B30 has a different VANOS. What is cps?
pingu393 cps is a crank position sensor or rpm switch.
www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=CK92-EUR-07-1998-Z3-BMW-Z3_M&mg=11&sg=10&diagId=11_1573&q=12141401186
pingu393 yeah i guess it is then huh they must use the same cps for the 3.0 and 3.2 motor. I wonder if the usa z3 m coupe is also the same? That a 3.2 double vanos motor as well i believe
I don't think that you understood the link to RealOEM. The part in the link is for the S50B32. It is ONLY fitted to the EUR engine.
I don't think that ANY of the US models will be the correct part.
f.... this is so complicated, so definetely can't do it on my own. I can change the filters oil air cabin, oil water pump, plugs oxigene sensor etc but this hm... no thanks
10:28, why do you turn the plate slightly to the left before you engate the teeth? I thought they should be fully turned to the right and then you mesh the tooth in, so thats where the VANOS unit begins to push the gears in and the cams retard themselves? It appears your not starting from full retard if your turning the plate to the left by 1 tooth before you mesh the gear in? This is what confuses me.
I assume the reason to have the plates turned fully to the right is to set them in the full advance position, and then as the gears mesh in and push in, they retard the cams by moving the plates anti clockwise?
Hi Boris , I had the same questions and also posted on Tim’s TH-cam channel- Juhles . You can see my responses there. I took videos and pics as well . What is important as stated in this video is that the Exhaust Vanos gear must stick out like in the Video when inserted all the way into the hub. This will ensure that when your Vanos unit is fully seated , the bolts at the back as still accessible. If you are not sure what I mean, please feel free to comment on Tim’s channel where I posted more details. Note this is only my observations and by no means profess it’s correct.