4 Ways To Bond New Concrete To Old Concrete
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2021
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From www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pag... - Bonding new concrete to old concrete is an application specific process. There are a lot of methods to use but it would be easy to use the wrong one for your application. Learn more about the different ways to bond new concrete to old conrete in this video including latex fortifier, SBR latex, PVA and thinset.
Introduction To Concrete Bonding - • Introduction To Concre...
Bonding New Concrete To Oily Concrete - • Bonding New Concrete T...
How To Prepare Old Concrete For Bonding - • How To Prepare Old Con...
How To Acid Wash Concrete - • How To Acid Wash Concrete
How To Bond New Concrete To Old Concrete With A Latex Slurry - • How To Bond New Concre...
Bonding New Concrete To Old Concrete With SBR Latex - • Bonding New Concrete T...
How To Bond New Concrete To Old Concrete With PVA Slurry - • Bond New Concrete To O...
How To Bond New Concrete To Old Concrete With Thinset - • How To Bond New Concre...
Original concrete bonding video with almost 1M views - • How to bond new concre...
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I like how you just went right into it. No music, no intro. Thank you.
I COMPLETELY AGREE, ”SOME”, videos on TH-cam drive me insane...I just want instructions/Tuition,not screaming, bells whistles and fluffy crap! This guy is awesome x
I agree. Time is so valuable. I have never watched an instructional video where music added anything of value. It is definitely a distraction.
Do you put the slurry down and let it dry or pour the concrete in too of wet slurry
I would have liked if you had broken a corner of those samples, to see if it caused the 2 layers to separate
Skip from 30 to 2:30 to avoid mindless chatter not helpful to the question. The rest of the video is pure gold.
A few years ago I used your methods on a Roof (Cracked through) Concrete Chimney Cap. Brushed on my Portland Cement, Water, Titebond Wood Glue Slurry. Then built a form around/under existing chimney cap and poured in a mortar mix. The Cap is still solid w/zero issues. Thank You Sir for your videos
Really good video. I think what many missed was that if you don't prep, if you don't use a bonding aid, if you put concrete over dry concrete, those samples would have popped apart on their own when you took them out of the frame. I'm going to look for your concrete channel and see what info you have their. It's GREAT to see someone that understands both the science of this, which is not trivial, as well as having practical experience in the trades. So many science only people don't have any real world experience, and many in the trades know the "right way" but don't know why things work as they do.
Thanks for this series of videos. Super helpful for some below-grade stuff I'm doing. Just for funzies, it would be fun to see the result of leaving these test blocks in a bucket of water for a month!
Great video. Your videos on concrete and binders are right up my alley. I have been working with polymers/ polymer modified concrete for years. I am especially intrigued with the use of the thin-set mortar. Now I have to really get into this this spring/summer. I appreciate the time that you put into your videos. Kudos to you.
God bless you for doing this you’re helping a lot of people!
Thank you! Just what I needed. Loved this.
Steve, I have a solid oak exterior door threshold to repair that requires I fill in a hollowed out section beneath it in my slab foundation for it to rest on top of. Bought a bag of Quickcrete and thought I was good to go. Then I stumbled on your channel. How wrong I was. I never knew what I never knew but your videos on the topic (acid washing, bonding, various mixes and ratios) are just fabulous! Haven't gotten this lost in someone else's channel in a long time. Thank you so much for these. I am certain you have saved me from a small disaster.
I do have a question that I have not seen an answer to here yet. You say to start with water and portland first (I understand the reasoning), then mix in the aggregates to get the proper consistency. You also say 1:3/portland:sand, or 1:2:3/portland:sand:gravel. From these formulas I can work backward to figure out how much portland to start with. But is there a rough formula for the water:portland mix at the start? If you've made video explaining this that I've missed, just point me to it.
Thanks from Connecticut.
Fantastic... so happy you made this video
Good info Steve! thanks for your video.
Thank you for the insights on Thinset: good info.
Hi Steve, nice video, thanks for sharing your knowledge. This month I will be resurfacing a badly spalled garage floor and intend to use Rapidset Concrete Resurfacer. With a product such as this should I still 1) prep the surface with a Portland slurry or one of the products in this video and 2) use an air entraining additive? Do you ever use ready-to-go resurfacers such as this?
Thank you, finally someone who tells you APPLY CONCRETE BEFORE BONDING AGENT DRIES
Our pool was already formed with gunite but we don’t have the pebbletec finish yet. Is it too late to add a concrete step to my baja shelf to make it easier to step in?
My friend just anchors the rebar or wire that's used for the new concrete to the old concrete, he does clean & wets the concrete before hand though. So far his work is holding up : )
Thanks for sharing ur knowledge .I have a very tent issue , I contracted a bricklayer to refloor an old 2 storey building ,after 2 days.the whole thing crack from the ground floor to the last floor up. The concrete didnt bond at all .I wish I could show the video here. Pls what can I do to salvage it . noted the concrete didn't bond with d old. And it a decky
I want to put a thin layer of crack resistant quikrete (I think this is the best approach) over an old chipped, rough layer of concrete in a small crawl space which will get almost no traffic and is generally hot since the boiler is in there. Just want to smooth out the area. Any reason to go beyond just making sure the old concrete is clean and damp before putting on the quikrete on top of it?
Thanks for making this video. How would your assessment change if the object was bonding new concrete to old in a lateral manner? I mean say you have a 3' x 3' square of concrete, and you need to add 6 inches on all sides to make it 4' by 4'? How would the methods and materials change? Thank you.
hi . do we need to apply any bonding agent white concrete for new pool
Can I use quickcrete sand and topping mix to repair the corner of a concrete step without some sort of extra bonding agent? and if not what would you recommend?
Hi Steve. I am going to pour a concrete fire pit onto an existing concrete slab, is there any one bonding agent you would use in your slurry to bond new to old?
My front porch and walkway were tiled over by previous owner, im removing tile now but not all the mortar is easily coming off the concrete, im gonna be widening walkway and pouring a thin layer of concrete over the old, woukd any of this work for me?
Steve, the grout (they used straight mortar around 4-5" thick) finish on the bottom of our vinyl pool was anything but flat (noticably wavy under foot) and it's driving me nuts to walk in shallow end of the pool. Can we remove the liner and use a diamond wheel to grind down any high spots then use one of the above methods to bond grout to the low spots or is this a situation where there entire thing needs to be removed and repoured? If so which method would you suggest using in this case? My concern on a repour is the lack of concrete finishing skill in our area so hopefully what we have can be saved but don't want to go down that path if we can't actually get a good repair.
Portland cement as a bonding agent has never failed me yet.
Old school.
Thanks, I am inclined to try # 3 Well Bond glue slurry mix ...in your demo, to attempt tp repair my cracked concrete ramp in front of my my garage
is that bond between two concrete layers as strong as it should be in normal case , i mean when concrete made all at once ?
Wanted to see Destructive Tests
Do you have a video of how to patch tiny cracks In a concrete pull deck?
Hi Steve, thanks for all of your info. I've read through much of your blog and it's very helpful content. I'm wondering what mortar do you use to set coping stone on the bond beam, and the joints in between? Type S or do you use a specialty Sika product? Thanks
Type S is common for this application, but I prefer to mix my own tile and stone setting mixes. 2-1 sand to portland cement, 1/3 part hydrated lime, 10%liquid volume latex/acrylic. But it depends on the bed thickness, stone type / porosity. Sika is good, Laticrete as well as they both have a product for every application.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve Just wondering, some water proof butyl products dry relatively hard, last forever and have a crazy expansion of up to 1000. It seems it would be a good candidate for the expansion gap. Ever tried it? It was certainly seal and is used as a capillary gap and sealer between building cement footers and walls.
Steve, these are great videos. However, for someone like me (a nincompoop), there's not enough information. I need step-by-step instructions that even a child could understand.
I would like to resurface new crawlspace concrete, measuring 80 x 84 inches (don't ask why). So, to simplify matters and to give myself more working time (which is key), this is what I plan to do:
1) Make sure the new concrete is clean.
2) Dampen it with water.
3) Roll on Quikcrete Concrete Bonding Adhesive (working time three hours).
4) Let adhesive dry according to instructions.
5) Apply thin layer of Quikcrete Rapid Set Mortar.
6) When set, cure with water using the mist setting on hose nozzle.
Using a slurry of any kind would greatly reduce my working time, and it might be more suitable for small repairs. Because the resurface job will not be subject to the weather, sunlight, freeze-thaw cycles, or heavy foot traffic, it should hold up well enough.
Hi . so, I'm working on a pool where the terrain it was built on is clay. (the size of the pool and 40’x16’ the steps are occupying 8’6” from one wall to the other, with a bench that occupies the entire length of the pool). over time the pool steps cracked. I broke all the steps, and the walls around it, I'm going to make double still walls alternating with half inch iron, the concrete joint from the old concrete to the new one is at forty-five. I'm going to put epoxy bond and new iron in the old concrete hole, but I'm wanting to put something between the old and new concrete to improve adhesion, like scretch kote or something. I'm still researching this. but as the terrain is clayey and there is a lot of water in the area, I want to make the perfect concrete combination! does anyone have knowledge about this? Thanks!
The thinset that you show is Mapei Ceramic Tile mortar, it's TDS says "protect from rain for 7 days". That would conflict with concrete which calls for concrete curing, wetting the concrete slab with water 5-7 times per day for the first 7 days.
You are not wrong, but that also would apply for a tile setting application. For a bonding application the thin set can and does work. After 24 hours it will be about 80% strength and definitely will enhance the bond between the layers.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve- I hope so, because I used your thinset method under concrete yesterday on a step extension 6"x6"x49" and this morning about 40 hours later I removed the form and the thinset on the edges, the sides in spots was not fully hardened, I could scratch it off. Meanwhile the leftover thinset I threw in a dirt pile (which never was watered) was as hard as a rock.
P.S. - I used Mapei KeraFlex SG which says "protect from rain for 72 hours, which is just 3 days.
UPDATE - 72 hours later all the KeraFlex SG thinset is fully hardened, while I have continued wetting the concrete 2x a day and keep it covered with visqueen and shade.
Im studying this cause my garage has only the slab and I think I need to add the curb walls. I live in Canada and the weather is harsh. So to move with a garage project, add the curb to old slab? Add concrete blocks? Have no ideal why they haven't pour the curb with the slab in the first place. I see some houses that have it, other like mine doesn't.
Hi, I wonder if you can help me with a situation. Can I fill an oversized hole in the ceiling with one of there methods and be able to hang a swong again on the same hoke? Will the concrete adhere and hold the weight? I'm using expamsove sleve bolts 4 on each hanger that holds.the swimg. The thimg is I wouldn't want to move the swing because it is centered in a room. Will this be a safe fix?
I don't think it would work. You could mount a piece of wood which is larger to allow you to reach suitable stable ceiling to attach to, and then attach your chair to the piece of wood
Would like to see the long term test of these methods
Hi Steve,
Thanks for the videos. I'm about to lay a 9 inch tall x 17 foot long curb on top of one side of an existing slab. It will be used to hold back grass, dirt and rain water until it recedes. I was going to acid wash the existing slab area and then wet it down, then add Weldwood mixed with Portland as a glue before putting in the concrete. Sound ok? I see from your video there are so many ways to bond new to existing....
I would do the same thing but with acrylic / latex instead of pva. Better for areas where there will be water at times. Don't forget after acid wash and rinse to neutralize with baking soda or a TSP scrub. If the concrete is left too acidic this can cause a reaction which prevents a bond between the layers. Also, I would hope you are pinning and doweling this new curb, unless the point is to mechanically isolate it feom the slab. Any sort of retaining wall anything is top tier difficulty. Drainage is paramount so water pressure can not build behind a raised wall.
Can you add a wet mix of mortar with acrylic fortifier to a mix of dried mortar with acrylic fortifier …. basically can you work with that mix in layers?
I have seen recipes using white glue... could you explain the test rig?
What’s the best slurry to use on a spalling area below my garage doors on the concrete that is exposed to outside weather here in Colorado. It’s caused by the Mag Chloride & salt they use here in the winter time for the roads . It previously also had a thin layer of Rhino coating that peeled & worn off eventually also . Love your expertise & video . Just want to make sure I do this right so it will last awhile . Also afterwards can I coat it again with a Rhino coating for more protection ? Thx
Latex modified slurry and latex modified concrete are effective for chemical and water resistance. But if ypu are adding air entrainer there might be a problem with the latex. Check with manufacturers if in doubt
Thx Steve , what do you mean by air entrainer ? ?
Air additive to prevent from freeze and thaw damage. Google air entrainer concrete admixture.
Can you bond new concrete over old concrete that has been painted?
Could I fix a concrete gully. With this mixture? Puddles of water formed and destroyed the concrete gully. It's a drainage system of an old house. Mostly drainage from kitchen and bathroom.
I laid concrete block two for a wall, do I need bonding to apply stucco with a brick pattern? homedepot sells a blue bonding agent.
Can you bond structural grout to new structural grout
In your opinion
Due to chlorine, acid
Will Portland cement fake rocks hold up around the pool coping??
As far as them being sculpted and made to be placed around and onto of pool coping border to have a tropical look around pool.
What is the best recipe mix to use for rocks
It is fairly common to see artificial rocks used for pool installations both above and below the waterline so it is possible. 1 part portland cement, 3 parts sand, 1 part fly ash, 1 part densified silica fume, 5% of water replaced with liquid acrylic. Handful of alkali resistant glass fibers. This is the sculpting mix that I use.
I just realized that because I'm retired, every build or repair I do, it will last a lifetime! Look everyone, I'm bonding concrete with bacon grease!
Whats the brand of thin set?
Hi Steve, I am in the middle of building a pool. We had the concrete floor poured and the walls are built with cinder-blocks. We wanted to use quartzscape to finish, but we are having an extremely hard time finding a subcontractor to hire to apply it. Do you have any other suggestions to as what we could finish the pool with. I have watched some of your videos and appreciate your help with this. It is very discouraging to get this far and be at a standstill. thanks in advance.
There's all types of finishes, and there's some guys that don't fuck with certain ones in certain areas. You just gotta go with what applicators you have in your area, and what they want to do. Or.....do it yourself. First of all, you building a pool with cinderblocks, I hope it's someone who has built many pools with cinderblocks and does something to ensure that shit won't separate between blocks and fuck your walls.
It's pretty retarted actually, and I can't even talk anymore. Your question is like me trying to build a car, and commenting on Ford's website who do I get to paint the car. LOL.
Your shit might be good for a while, but it'll be fucked. My guess is your husband is just a know it all DYI guy. Good luck.
Building a concrete pool with cinder blocks is not a method that I endorse. Even uniformly poured concrete vessels can crack, and how much less strong do you think a few hundred blocks grouted together is? The answer is a lot. If you attempt to apply that interior surface it will fail along the shifting grout joints. I believe this is part of the reason why you can not find a conctractor to do this work for you, but if you keep looking eventually someone will. But it will fail. You could explore putting a decoupling layer or membrane in place, like Hydroban or Basecrete perhaps, but I am still doubtful. If this were my pool i would hang a coping track and order a liner because you have effectively built a vinyl liner pool, not a concrete pool. Cinderblock vinyl liner pools are a viable design. I hope this information is helpful.
Yep, convert to vinyl liner pool. Look up ICF pool, which is similar in methodology to what you've created. You'll be happier and have a lot more peace of mind. Everything that has been said by the two replies is true. Cinderblocks will eventually fail. Small cracks under pressure lead to massive headaches and further destabilization of the reinforcing cinder block structure, leading to ever larger cracks around the initial leak site. Looks like you've built a nice reinforced vinyl liner pool. Plus, vinyl liner pools are gentler on the feet and you get to change the pattern of the vinyl liner every 5+ years to keep things fresh!
@@Swimmingpoolsteve Interesting! This makes me wonder about all those basements built with cinder blocks that always fail. If I do a basement, I will certain contact you.
Hi Steve. Thank you for the information. I am troubleshooting my in-ground concrete pool and it has a pop-up cleaning system that I believe is the source of a leak (300 gallons a day). To repair, I am thinking about chipping out the inground pop-ups and applying new concrete over the top to seal it up. Do you think that will work and have you done that before with an older concrete pool? Thanks in advance.
You 100% do not want to do that. It could be anything leaking, and most likely is a failed glued fitting. It REALLY would be worth the money to find the best leak detection guy you can find. I would strongly encourage you to let someone with electronic sensing equipment locate the leak. Perhaps you can isolate the zone that is leaking leaking any bypass ot by plugging in the valve and at the nozzles.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve Thank you for the input and advice!!
Hi Steve. Just wanted to let you know that the Pool Leak guy came back and found the leak on the water return to the pool. He had to pressurize the lines to 75 psi but they found it. The inground system has no leaks. Thanks for the advice.
Can you just used a little of rubber glue and blend it with concrete with a drill and resurface the old concrete. Thanks.
A slurry of 2 parts type 2 to 1 part sand. Apply the slurry, then apply the concrete
Hi steve what happens if I don't put bonding before putting the concrete leveler?
the bond wont be as strong. You really need to pay attention to the installation instructions for the products you are using. If it says to use bonding layer down first, definitely you want to follow that.
I would like to have seen a demo of one that didn't bond well so we could hear the difference in sound when you run the hammer over it
Could deep etching 1/8 to 3/16 to expose some aggregate aid in the bonding of concrete block on a footer? Also excellent presentation ! Straight to the subject. My ultimate goal no water seepage. Even with a French drain perimeter.
No water seepage through concrete will require additional steps. Look into Basecrete products. These can be added to finished concrete to make it actually waterproof instead of porous. Etching would help bond but not affect water permeability
@@Swimmingpoolsteve thank you for the advice sir.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve This is something I've been looking for. TY!
You have some of the best instructional videos on "the Tube"
Very Best Regards,
Tom Scott
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U must try epoxy based bonding agent and PVA based also.
❤ Canada
So, when you say there's a right concrete for every application, does that include stuff like child discipline, artificial intelligence programming and interpretive dance? If so, I'd love to hear which concrete mix you recommend for each of those things. Right now I'm just using Sakrete 5000 for all of them, and I'll be honest, the results have not been good.
Well, that's obviously where you went wrong... You'd have much better luck using Quikrete products.
WHICH is the cheapest?
And the moral of the story is: Use whatever product you want because they all bond equally well.
But... other than how they sound... how was the seal? Would've liked to see some more testing of the bond.
They will all perform similarly. It is more about the climate / variables the concrete is exposed to. For example, PVA and acrylic will perform the same. But exposed to water the pva would fail
Try CTS products?
You should do a new video where you give each of them a whack, and successively hit it harder so we can all see how it breaks and how soon each one breaks relative to the others.
Sorry to bother you again can you tell me where you found those square top plastic bowls that nest into each other for making planters
I'd love to know what the 11 people who thumbs downed had a problem with because this is everything I ever learned all in one quick video
I would have liked to see a hammer test to see how each sample reacted.
that is a great idea. I will do some more videos with that in it.
ELMER'S GLUE!
Show the product. How much of each? Need more info.....
Look in the description. There are links to each video where I use each individual bonding agent and describe (and show) the process of applying it.
RIF
I really appreciate the effort in making this video but you really didn’t give any pro’s/con’s on any of the 4 methods. You basically stated that every one bonded, and then that was it! Think it would have been more informative had your provided a REAL COMPARATIVE BETWEEN THE DIFFERENT APPLICATIONS.
Can you bond stucco to existing stucco without any product
With velocity technically yes I believe it is possible. Under lab testing conditions the only way to produce concrete without a discernable cold joint is via shotcrete / gunite which applies new concrete (mortar or shotcrete mix) at high speeds. It sandblasts and embeds the new into the old. So if you had to bond without any slurry applying with force is useful. But also of note is that stucco will likely be fortified with acrylic or latex which is and of itself is a binder. But guaranteed you would still have a cold joint between the layers no matter what.
So we didn’t break them with the hammer because?
Cawncreet
So, no conclusions, no testing?
They all bonded. These are not experiments to see if it will bond. These are the standard accepted practices for bonding concrete.
You didn't use any concrete in this video? Weird.
You would think one of these concrete companies would make and sell products needed to bond new concrete to old. I’ve seen numerous videos showing many different products needed to accomplish this. Which leaves me confused about what to buy and use. I tried numerous times, unsuccessfully to fix my broken curb with concrete mix supposedly made for patching. For the love of God could someone make and sell a product to solve this problem. If not stop selling concrete for patching. IT DOESNT WORK!!
Use a portland cement 2 parts, 1 part sand. Wet it up to the consistency of wet pancake batter, work it with a masons brush then apply new concrete. Be careful to not over trowel the new concrete as that will create air pockets and cause delamination
@@ragingrevenge1 Thank you!!
Do U have a email address??
Sounds a bit pretentious
“pro-cess and twain🥴
Your listener should be told how to prep an aged concrete surface so the the bonding pro-cessis materiales don’t break in Marks Twain.
First due take a 4” or 7” grinder with a diamond blade face down and in a sweeping motion grind the surface and roughly scuff the surface and even cutting x‘ and x patterns into the old surface that the Cretest materiales can grabbas the edges
Mix a slurry of portland with your typical home depot white milky bonding agent from the masonry isle.
No need for measuring cups.
Just simply shovel in a 5 gal bucket 2 scoops of Portland and pour in some bonder liquid and paddle bit mix it with your motor drill into a liquid slurry and brush on only what you can cover before it dries
There Done
if youre desperate use oatmeal LOL
To much talk about nonsense
No offense, but what was the point of this video?
To show different methods for bonding new concrete to old concrete
Verbal diarheia. Talk less. Think before you say it.
I think it's just you. Tens of thousands of other likes.
How would I redo old concrete that has joint expansions? To make sure it all leveled instead of doing one section at a time.