I hand sewed a pirate shirt using 18th century sewing methods
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
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Not, you'll notice, this woman's whole career. But, this whole woman's career. So if say Ms Banners left wrist wants to get its masters degree in Jazz Trumpet, Skillshare will be there.
@@Azriel637
Left Wrist: (plays cool cat jam)
Bernadette: It's 2am. I will "jam" you in the toilet before the neighbours do.
😻🤣
@@Azriel637 😂🤣 this made me laugh until my stomach was aching.
Hi everyone! I'm a seamstress from Norway, and as I saw this I just really wanted to leave a comment with some measurements for you guys. I work with making "bunads" which is Norway's national costumes- in short- historically accurate renderings of 18th century garments worn by people in Norway.
Anyway, back to my point. I've made lots of these shirts and just thought I'd leave you with the measurements I use when I cut them.
These are all in cm, if you work in inch you'll have to convert but anyways.
The men's bodice is cut at 160 cm length. For the width you take the bust measurement and ad 24 cm for movement. Divide by two (since the back and front is in one piece).
For a woman's shirt I'd cut the length to 150, and use the same formula as for a man, though I never cut the bodice narrower than 58 cm. If I get 56 cm from my calculations, I'll still cut it 58, so the shirt doesn't get too small if the client adds some weight later on.
The gusset for a man's shirt is 12 by 12 cm, while women's are 10 by 10cm.
I'd calculate the length of the arm from the measurement taken from the centre back of your neck and to your wrist over an bent arm.
Measure the distance from the centre back of your bodice to the edge of the shoulder. Say you get 29cm (if your bodice is 58 cm wide, this is the measurement you'll end up with). Measure from 29 cm ( or the measurement you got) on your arm piece, and to the full length of your arm, then add 5 cm for selvedge and movement.
For the width of the arms I cut them 58 cm wide (note that I do not make the wrinkles in the shoulderseam as wide as Bernadette did, but alas I make bunad shirts, not pirateshirts even if the tecniques are identical). If you want more wrinkles, cut them wider.
For the cuffs I'd cut the neckpiece 20 by 60 or 70 cm ( depending on the clients neck measurements), and the cuffs 20 by 30 (this is for men)
For women I'd cut the neckpiece 20 by 50 (also depending on neck measurements) and the cuffs 20 by 25/30 cm. I always fold the cuffs over to the back.
Also, for the gathering thread I usually insert it 4 by 4 threads so to make the pleates more even, and I leave the gathering thread in the shirt afterwards so they'll stay nice and snug for a long time.
I hope someone will benefit from these measurements and that they're not too confusing. It's really a fun little project that certainly doesn't need to be so daunting. (In contrast to this ridiculously long comment, hehe)
Happy sowing!
Thank you! This will be helpful.
This is very helpful thanks and thanks for doing it in cm (much more comfortable for me). Do you have any links for "bunads" pattern drawings, or any historical tailoring documents in general.
PLEASE PIN THIS!!!!!
These measurements are the most accurate, at least for the cuffs and collar. The diagram in the video does not specify that the measurements were taken after being folded for those pieces.
For example, the cuff measurement in the video on one side says 4" (to be folded in half). You would think that it would mean cut out to 4 inches but it does not, and should have said 4"( after folded in half) or heck even 8" (will be folded in half).
Sincerely, beginner who decided to cut all the pieces based on the image and was left with weird strips of fabric that do not look anything like the video and was confused for 15 minutes.
Hei, tusen takk for alle tipsene her! Jeg er også norsk og er en (super) nybegynner med sying så jeg setter pris på at du forklarte med cm og de riktige målingene 🙏
@@StephenThorley Generally bunad patterns are difficult to come by online. I know there are some buisnesses that lets you buy the pattern for a spesific bunad under the condition that you also buy the nesaccary fabric to go with it. (At least that's what they do where I work)
If you dig a bit online you might be able to find some costumepatterns which are similar, but I doubt you'll find an authentic bunad pattern.
Bernadette usually mentions a few different sites about historical tailoring in some of her videos, without me being able to remember any of those on the fly. Though a quick google search might result in some good reference books for this as well.
I hope this is helpful somehow, and I'm sorry I can't provide a better answer.
Bernadette: This is actually a great beginner's project!
Bedsheets: *sweats nervously*
mine are also
When I first saw this video, I made a bedsheet pirate shirt. Today I got a thin and smooth linen curtain from the thrift store, and decided it's time for a second one.
*looks at the gray sheets my mom doesn't want anymore*
*looks at our sewing table*
*looks at the Sweeney Todd Motion Picture Soundtrack*
It's go time.
THE SWEENEY TODD SOUNDTRACK SLAPS
Go for it!
I was watching this video for the exact purpose of making it for a sweeney todd Halloween costume but I'm so lost
same dude, we can have grey pirate shirts together!
King/Queen Energy
I love how Bernadette's "procrastination" is being productive by prepping other pieces while my procrastination is refreshing yt for the 80th time cuz I've watched every video on the internet despite me having a metric ton of work to do
Why you gotta make me relate so hard? Because that’s exactly what I’m doing with my Blackboard window open on my laptop right now 😅
@@GuiSmith LMAO cuz I'm doing that right now. I have so much homework and I'm failing maths so hard and I have exams in a couple of weeks but I have spent the last week spending a minimum of 14 hours on my laptop
That's what I thought when she said she was "procrastinating" lmao
They're more of what you'd call guidelines, rather than actual rules. /CaptainBarbossa
Very true.
Omg I was looking for someone to comment this exact reference!🤣👏🥰
@@aestheticallyaspiring2692 I came here to make this exact comment and someone beat me by 23 hours :)) This is fantastic. I love us and our community!
beat me to it...and love the hair down look
Pretty much sums up the rules of sewing an undershirt, too... ;)
Also, I'm fairly sure "romantically smash the patriarchy" is the most amazingly Bernadette thing I've ever heard and I am now forced to embroider this into some project or other very very soon. I love all of your creative endeavors and seeing that you are indeed well and still creating is a light in this fairly dark time in our more recent history. Thank you for existing.
1:54 tip about pre-washing fabric
2:16 measuring and cutting, drawing threads
3:45 putting body pieces together
4:15 counter hem explanation
5:09 stitching shoulder seams, historical thread explanation
6:20 gussets and armscye sizing
8:19 preparing collar and cuff pieces
8:50 preparing sleeves and gussets
9:54 backstitching explanation
10:57 felling the sleeve seams
12:13 adding reinforcement patch to sleeve slit
12:43 installing sleeve poof (gathering sleeves)
14:00 preparing body piece
14:50 attaching sleeves
16:43 leaving slits in side seams
17:18 center front slit
17:41 gathering collar edges and attaching collar
18:13 attaching buttons to cuffs
18:47 hemming bottom edge of shirt
19:01 Project Epic Pirate Shirt complete!
THANK YOU! This has been incredibly helpful, as when I started making it - got confusing very quick
You just saved me so much time thank you!!!
You're a lifesaver thank you so much :0)
+
Damn. You're the hero none of us deserve. Thank you.
"Here's to a bit of adventure in these times of plague, my friend." - I don't know why, but this closing line hit me hard, and I'm not sure if I am saddened or encouraged by this statement. Either way, thank you.
YES! I think bittersweet is how I would describe it.
I felt the same way.
I had an "I love you" reaction to these words
I thought it was a good play on the issues. There are those people are the plague... And there are those who are or encourage the cure.
Agreed. And you can see the now-iconic outdoor seating wooden rectangle, with plants and awning, on the right side of the sidewalk. These are constructed by restaurants to accommodate outdoor dining until indoor dining resumes.
Poofy shirts tucked into high waisted pants are universally hot, I don't make the rules
Who are you, who are so wise in the ways of science
Jup, agree. From a thin Girl to a Fatty Guy... it just has style...
And cloaks. I'm still waiting for cloaks to make a comeback.
Be the fashion icon you want to see in the world.
@@Ladycraft-lk5tk y e s
The fact that you do this all by hand makes me extremely happy! As a teenager with no access to a sewing machine and very low funds, I'm glad that I can be able to do this project! I'm also a beginner in terms of sewing, and this video will help me immensely in starting! Thank you, from the bottom of my glitter filled heart, thank you.
If you search for a good sewing machine befriend older women. Almost every nice old lady has a nice old sewing machine she can't use anymore because of her bad eyesight. Find out if there is a community center that has a sewing cirlcle or an elderly home that hosts a sewing circle open to visitors. With C it is currently more difficult to join activities with the elderly and full vaccination is a must, but the options are still out there.
Or you can try buying a secondhand sewing machine, and if you are lucky maybe you can find something on your budget which is what happened to me
Favorite part of the pattern: “Pieces not to scale lol”
I like the little devil horns and tail on "sleeve", myself!
JoneseyBanana I like the little carved turnip under the cuff. ☺️
Was that a metal thimble?
Some notes of things I learned/wish I knew before I started this:
• the 5” gusset was not enough for me, make sure to make your own measurements for those (I am about 5’4” with ~20” arm length and although I’m not necessarily curvy or heavy, I am a much more stocky build than Bernadette, especially around my arms as she is very petite so I ended up making my gussets about 7” long)
• Decide if you’re going to fell the seams before you stitch them, I decided afterwards that I wanted to fell them and the split in the wrist was a pain.
• On the topic of felling, I am not very skilled at making even felling stitches so you can just back stitch on the outside of the seam to make it lay flat and also use the thread as an accent/part of the design like it did.
• Idk if it was just that I was using a denser fabric (thrift store bed sheet, probably cotton) but the reinforcement patches were a NIGHTMARE. (To be fair, I’m not a very experienced hand sewer, but STILL). I ended up making a ton of patches because I had to retry to many times. My process ended up being that I would fold the fabric from strips into the square before hand and wet and iron it into shape before ever cutting it down to a more workable size. I ended up basting each corner of the two squares together before I went and back stitched around all of it (again I’m not very good at felling)
• ALSO! With the reinforcement patches, the folded corners from both squares are both tucked into the square so there is no exposed corner on either side. They DO NOT full wrap around the hem on the sleeve slit but instead are folded ONTOP and stitched OVER the hem. It took me way too long to realize this.
• Bernadettes buttonhole video is private so make sure you understand this on your own.
• It does not need to be the full length unless you are making it as historical as possible. I was really frustrated with the length until I remembered that it didn’t matter and I chopped it all off and hemmed it again. I have a short torso so I usually end up doing this to a lot of my shirts anyway.
• get a little sewing pillow like Bernadette has for some of the more complicate sewing positions so you’re not constantly stabbing your thigh because you need to make sure the fabric is taught.
Thank you. Very useful comments (although you might want to correct that last "taught" to "taut" for those who can read English but aren't used to our homophones).
me, a beginner: completes a hand-sewn pirate shirt two weeks ago out of an old cotton bedsheet and (gasp!) polyester thread cause that's what i had on hand; no cuff buttons, semi-absurd collar & cuff attachment
bernadette: uploads this video
me: watches this anyway knowing my technique will get Clowned Upon.
my technique: thoroughly clowned upon
how does the cotton... work? feel? I'm not sure what term to use but I was also thinking of doing it in cotton for ease of cleaning, is linen preferable for how it fits?
How did the sheet work out? I may or may not be thinking about doing the same exact thing👀
No one should make fun of or degrade your efforts. I applaud them! You learned something, you applied that knowledge, and now you have a pirate shirt to wear. Wear it with pride, just like Bernadette!
@anna - you just need to tell people you did an eco-sewing project and thought to upcycle a bed sheet into a shirt for your first big project. Which is marvelous!! And I should point out that many pirates were kidnap victims and weren't working voluntarily, and didn't pack for the trip, so probably didn't have the luxury or time for learning "proper" collar and cuff attachment, and usually used whatever was on board or the spoils of the pirate booty they liberated from other ships to make their shirts. Whatever Bernadette shows is the way a professional, or well practised "lady" of the day would have made a garment. There are other dress historians on TH-cam who had showed a number of garments that were put together in less precise manners, A LOT less precise manners. I grew up in dresses made from sheets and flour sacks (yes, flour used to come in fabric sacks, then when the mills found out that the white fabric was being used for clothes, started printing "pretty" flour sacks), and still make clothes out of thrift store bedding today. It's an insanely cheap way to get fabric, and a lot more environmentally conscious than buying "new" fabric, especially for mock-ups.
And then think about how the majority of clothes didn't survive the few hundred years - and why. If you want something to last, use the better methods. If you are making it for a one-off costume (or hideous bridesmaid dress(es) and have only a few days to put it together, quality of stitching tends to go by the way-side.
Bernadette: there are no rules in piracy
Actual pirate: *awkwardly look at their extensively written articles of conduct*
I.....love pirates
The quartermaster: Well, at least we made the rules ourselves.
(As a fellow pirate enthusiast, I appreciate this comment matey)
It is more... Kind of a "guideline" *snicker*
No one but the pirates can make the rules in piracy.
The code is more what you'd call "guidelines" than actual rules ...
I just realised my entire aesthetics is 18th century cross-dressing and I am *so* not disappointed.
Look up 17th century men's wear. Also fantastic. Uniform of Charles de Batz de Castelmore d'Artagnan, Captain-Lieutenant of the First Company of the Kings Musketeers. There's a great reproduction on wikipedia.
"Would anyone have clicked if I called it something mundane as..." It's like she doesn't even know her base here.
A linen men’s shirt is number two on my to do list right after a shift! Been calculating the yardage needed for both projects for awhile now. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I thought my ✨aesthetic✨ was simply ‘Pirate’, as I only wear shirts that look like this. Turns out I’m actually just a man from the 18th century.
Piratecore? Try man-from-18th-century-core instead
After three days of hand sewing my knuckles and skin off. I finished the shirt. It's my second project and I learned a lot from it. Making this shirt went flawless but I did make some adjustments: I added shoulder gussets en ruffled sleeves. Next time, I have to make the shirt less wide (80 cm instead of 100 cm), and shorten the sleeves. Also the length of the shirt itself should be longer. For now, I'm proud and I feel things could only get better...
1. I love this.
2. I do wish that you devoted a smidge more time showcasing the finished project! Especailly after all that hand sewing! I love me some Bernadette prancing in the streets (Squeeee!) but practically speaking it would also be nice to get a full, non swishy, look of the garment.
Yes a swash buckling sword fight w Johnny Depp would have been perfect
Agreed! Especially since I’m hoping to make one myself I was like “STOP SWOOSHING PLEASE, I NEED A GOOD LOOK” 😅😆
1800, Jane Austen helped make many of her brothers shirts, and boasted of her sewing skill- ‘We are very busy making Edward's shirts, and I am proud to say that I am the neatest worker of the party.’ Sewing was a necessary occupation as machines were decades away, & her diary often mentions particulars of this familiar occupation in her letters.
This lovely video has sealed my fate: I'm absolutely making a historical Halloween costume in which to haunt the neighborhood. And brood, of course. Brooding is vital. Anything else would be a disservice to dear Mr. Darcy.
We must brood. A brood of brooding.
Brooding is indeed absolutely necessary
I am by no means a professional or even proficient sewing person, and this was fairly easy to follow along with. I did make the mistake of using a random fabric from my mom’s sewing drawer, which ended up being kind of uncomfortable. However, the shirt turned out *looking* magnificent. There were some bits (attaching the collar, gussets, and cuffs) that were a little difficult to comprehend, but I’m going to blame that on my own impatience. I definitely think everyone should try this! Just make sure to use a soft material lol
"Unless you are stumbling here at 3am..."
Why u calling me out like that
"There are no rules in piracy... I'm pretty sure." No truer quote
Actually there *were* rules on board pirate ships, but they varied from ship to ship. 💀🏴☠️💀
*The Pirates Code:*
www.google.com/amp/s/www.newyorker.com/magazine/2007/07/09/the-pirates-code/amp
*Governance in 18th Century Piracy:*
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Governance_in_18th-century_piracy
@@itwasagoodideaatthetime7980 I thought the same thing 😂 some were pretty organised and sensible. Lights out at 8!
They're merely guidelines 😏
@@FaunaturaleOG Maybe in Hollywood but in the real world onboard a pirate ship breaking the rules could see you punished. Anything from being flogged, mutilated & in the worst cases being marooned.
@@itwasagoodideaatthetime7980 come on hitorical point proven, let people joke around
**Does a Perfect and coherent job at explaining something**
"If that makes sense."
This is beautiful!! It makes me want to make 10 of them and live out a dream of high adventure sea faring voyages
From you Bernadette, we’d watch if it just said, “ I made a shirt”.
Why does “mr Darcy core aesthetic trash” perfectly describe the style I’d like to go for
"Mr. Darcy -core, aesthetic trash" - well if that doesn't scream I need this shirt in my life I don't know what does
I felt seen when she said that!
Me whose sewing knowledge is based solely on your, Morgan Donner's, and Cathy Hay's videos and has never actually sewn any garment before:
🧐 "Ahh, yes. I would do it that way, as well. Reinforcement Square? Brilliant!" 😂
This is me, but add Rachel Makesy to the list
Bahahhaa
Same. In reality, I can barely sew a pillowcase, and yet I have a bizarrely detailed theoretical knowledge of historical sewing thanks to binging costube videos.
Going to make a variation of this for my husband so he can be Howl Pendragon, and to say that I am excited is a grievous understatement. Thank you for this video, dear Bernadette!!!
We well-seasoned sewists should have been told: "shirts/ shifts/chemises are all rectangles so BEGIN HERE."
Straight lines are our friend!
Bernadette : "Its beginers friendly !"
Me, french, after 20 minutes of english specific sewing terms and non metric measurements, at 4AM: "eeeeeeeeeeeeh --- lets do this later in life, shall we ?"
Si tu as besoin d'aide, hésite pas, je peux te donner mon contact 😉
Je couds à la main et je peux t'expliquer tout ça en français si il faut
@@Loweene_Ancalimon Hey salut ! Je commence à peine et j'ai un peu de mal à comprendre Bernadette et ce qu'elle fait avec son débit de parole, alors si tu veux bien m'aider ce serait super, merci beaucoup !
@@PunkBucolique tu devrais pouvoir me trouver sur insta avec le même nom, envoie moi un mp 😊
I'm so also very confused with all these different pieces. But I think making a smaller version first will help
@@PunkBucolique Si tu galères avec le débit de parole, tu peux régler la vitesse de lecture sur 0.95, ça aide par moments :-)
Bernadette: I completed this in about a week
Me, just finished taking two weeks to make a two piece traditional clothing for my friend's wedding, crying all the way and vowing never to sew again: guess it is time to sew again
i hope that your friends like what you made and that you have (or had) an enjoyable time at the wedding
For tutorials like this (that we, the common folk have a chance of recreating) I would really appreciate some simple shots of the finished garment up close or layed down on a table to see how the proportions look etc. While the closeup shots of stitching and far away posing/moving around are extremely aesthetic, it's hard (for me at least) to wrap my head around how some things should look
Same! I was so confused I made my own pirate shirt lol
Bernadette: starts describing linen's tendencies to "not stay straight... Flow free" etc
Me: oh snap, am I linen?
LOLLL
Linen comrade over here. 😊
I thought you were American?
Violet Life love that vine 😂
gender of the day: linen.
My inner 14 year old self who is still obsessed with pirates is jumping around with excitement now at the thought of this project...... Ok, maybe 25 year old outer me is too 😂
We are never too old to be enchanted by pirates. (At least ye olde timey ones. 😂)
@@kanashiiookami6537 Indeed. Ye olde timey pirates are cool and interesting. Ye current timey pirates have none of the coolness and all (and more) of the scoundrelness and scallywagitude.
The town I live in has a Pirate Days weekend during non-plague years. It's fun watching the 80 year-olds doing mock sword fights. Don't discourage the inner 14 year old.
It'd okay. I happen to have some linen I was saving for a shift that has just been repurposed. I'm also a good 20+ years older then you. If I can happily dig out some nice wool or just resize an old skirt, then make some sort of vest/laced bodice/outer clothing - I'm going to go skip around and through my errands. Mask and all,
@@goldengryphon I felt so inspired by Bernadette that I sourced some old patterns and bought some fabric. I have made a mock up and when I finish my assignment on Thursday I am going to start on the real thing. (It won't be a pirate shirt, more like a shirt from Edwardian times but the pirate shirt is next!) Yahoo!
Anyone else want to make this shirt whilst singing the chorus to Kate Bush’s Wuthering Heights under a full moon? Or Is it just me.
This is so specific and I never knew I needed it
I adore that song!❤️
Oh, completely! Especially with a name like mine.
I can't sew, but I'm totally down for everything else.
I feel this shirt would go well with a shanty instead, but no judging :)
Hello there, I'm an 18 y/o guy who is about to learn how to sew just for the sake of having my own PIRATE shirt.
Bernadette, as it's totally historically accurate that such ladies existed, you may wish to look into doing some historically correct pirate pants or skirts or whatever they wore. The men's naval world considered women on board to be bad luck, but even from Roman times there were pirate ladies & from all 'corners' of the globe. Your fellow New Yorker & 19thC pirate Sadie Farrell (aka Sadie the Goat) sounds rather interesting or 17th/18thC friends & pirates Anne Bonny & Mary Read also have some good stories. Possibly the most feared (at the peak of poor old George III's illness) was Ching Shih with her fleet of 300 pirate ships. My favourite for perseverance is Mary Read. Her mother had forced her to dress as a boy, impersonating her dead brother to get maintenance from the boy's father. When the old woman died, & with no means of support, Mary realised her opportunities were limited. She dressed in what was typical men's attire of the time & took on the persona of 'Mark Read' & joined the army. She married a fellow soldier & they set up an inn together, but her husband died & Mary went back to living as Mark. As Mark she found work as a sailor, but her ship was taken over by pirates & to survive, she joined them. She continued as a pirate for years with only her old friend, Anne Bonny & few others knowing who she was. She fought a duel, killing her opponent, to stop him from killing the man she loved. When the authorities boarded to arrest them for piracy, the male pirates, all drunk, conceded, but Mary & Ann continued to fight back until they were arrested. Due to be hanged, Mary was given a stay of execution as she was pregnant. She escaped the noose, but died in childbirth.
Also pretty darn impressive is Grace O'Malley from Ireland. She commanded over 20 ships, got captured, managed to get an audience with Queen Elizabeth I, refused to bow/curtsy and still managed to get a pardon, and fought off Algerian Pirates from her ship just over an hour after giving birth. www.rmg.co.uk/discover/explore/graceomalley
Anyone else tear up at “here’s to some adventure in times of plague” because I certainly did.
That one hit hard.
Yeah, that really hit me
That shit hit different.
You've inspired me to make this. I'm 2 days in and have just finished thread pulling all my pattern pieces...its time consuming but given how poor my eye is for cutting straight lines, I know it will be well worth it!
The one and only rule of piracy:
Don't pay for Disney+
The rules of piracy are voted for on each pirate ship.
@@ragnkja They are...but not that one. That one is universal.
@@auditoryeden
It’s not that it’s been explicitly banned, it’s just that such expenses must be approved by a majority on each ship, and that has never happened.
Ah ha!
I am more pirate than I thought!
Or am I more pirate because I use my sister-in-law’s Disney plus account?
This is why I let my parents pay
Bernadette: So there's this project-
Skillshare: *already pushing a sponsership in her direction* say no more
Realized I've been struggling needlessly with trying to fit the gussets and sleeves at the end. I've made several hands sewn shifts but each has been a learning curve. My next full scale project involves a shirt like this so now I feel more confident and equipped to tackle that.🏴☠️
listen I know there are easier ways to come out than hand-making an entire “pirate shirt” but i still wish id realised that this was an option
I've always said that the first thing I'd do after top surgery is wear one of these shirts super open like a raging bisexual- i think that while I'm waiting for my surgery these next few months I'll make that shirt my damn self
DID YOU MAKE THE PIRATE SHIRT YET
@@shoepixie No I haven't yet! I get my surgery January 25th and plan to make it in the 3 weeks after while I'm recovering and off work
@@marsmadden1910 man I am suddenly so invested in helping you accomplish this goal! You gotta do it mate!
@@shoepixie hell you've got me pumped too! I will make the shirt as soon as I have the mobility to after surgery!
@@marsmadden1910 Good luck on the shirt and surgery! Am sending you best wishes and lots of love 💕
"The Code is more what you'd call 'GUIDELINES' than actual RULES..."
Hoo boy, I just finished making it. It's certainly not perfect for it being my first big sewing project (especially since I hand sewed it, and had collar issues), but I had a lot of fun making it!
Love your tutorial Bernadette. Such a great description of pulling a thread. I have made five of these shirts. All for 18th century navy reenacting. Four of them are blue checked like the contract slops shirts. I have a theory that the contract shirts were made of checked cloth because one could follow an individual thread by using the pattern as a guide. Saves huge gobs of time on the cutting business. I love sewing these as the gathering creates such an amazing finished product. Thanks again.
Me a hand mender up cycling seamstress and all around lover of history: "No no Bernadette, bore me with those details, ...please." 🧵✂️📍😍🥺
I mean, I would click "I read the phone book in Victorian clothes" so I guess it doesn't matter. 🤷♀️😂
i mean...she HAS some victorian guidebooks. that would be cool
I finally have a day off and intended to try this, but my dog is insisting on sitting on my lap so we'll see how it goes!
Also, just to add to your own research re: historical garments being always backstitched:
Most pre-17th century Japanese garments such as kosode (forerunner of kimono), hakama (big ol' "pants"), kataginu (vest-adjacent), among others)were running stitched, so as to be able to be taken apart and the silk washed. While not every single stitch was like this (for example, Obi (belts) and himo (ties) used a slipstitch of sorts), a running stitch was quicker to do via the "Unshin" method where the fabric is moved on to the needle and then pulled, which is arguably quicker for the long, straight seams that feature in a lot of the garments of the time.
Woaah this is super interesting, thank you for sharing it! Do you have any books/sites/etc to recommend about historical japanese sewing?
@@taeyeonsnose7003 I second this question
@@taeyeonsnose7003
So- a good overview of garments is Mitsuo Kure's "Samurai: Arms, Armor and Costume". Its 90% costume, with fairly decent breakdowns of the outfits, but it doesn't dive into huge detail. Another excellently well-researched site (albeit a personal site) is Sengoku Daimyo. The gentleman that created it was a scholar who contributed heavily to the Osprey series and was really, really historically accurate. He has since passed, but the site is a repository of his research, if being slanted towards the SCA-member.
Another three (and the first one is really hard to obtain without a college-level library hookup to WorldCat library loan system) is:
Shiryō Nihon Ifuku Saihōshi (the hard to get one, but arguably the superior. It gives exact measurements of extant garments from the various temples/shrines, along with the stitching. It is entirely in Japanese, so GoogleTranslate on your phone is the order of the day.
Easier to find is Jidai Ishō no Nuikata is similar to the above book, but is a bit more costumer-friendly in that its an examination of a shrine's garments, but is a bit easier to understand and less academic. While also in Japanese, its a bit more practical.
Similar to the above is Shin kimono tsukurikata zensho" and it has a lot of information on the stitches (though I don't know for sure if they're pre-1600 or if they're modern). I want to say that you can find this online as a scan, but I'm away from my laptop and can't find the bookmark I had.
@@Porthosity ooh thank you, I will be bookmarking this
How cool!
Look at that traditional thimble making an appearance! Is the leather thimble jealous? Hmmmm...am I giving feelings to an item that has no soul? Yes, yes I am.
😂 it's ok, I'm using both interchangeably!
So interesting that your pattern is all rectangles/squares. I made one for my husband years ago using a modern pattern and the pieces were all kinds of weird shapes! It looked good with the vest etc I made, but I find it eye opening that the more historical way would be more simple shapes. I guess that makes sense. I confess I did not "finish" it no felled seams inside. I do enjoy watching your vids!!
Sitting here watching the ads because you saved me from buying a pattern and you’ve earned way more than the pennies you get from my views... multiple views. Gotta get those measurements and that construction right!
Putting the last stitches on this shirt as we speak and I love it so much! I changed the pattern in small ways to suit my body and style. This was my first time making a garment entirely by hand and it certainly won’t be the last!
Costuming videos are so comforting! I always find a mix of “Oh, yay! I wasn’t crazy for sewing that, that way,” and “Oh! That makes so much more sense than the way I was doing it!”
It took me over a quarter of a century to realize that I can be whoever I want, and there are no words to describe how free that feels. 💚
Same here. I came out as trans officially at 26 and everything has been so much better since then.
Alex A I’m so proud of you and happy for you 💚💚💚
Fantastic video. In my late teens I took a standard mens button up dress shirt and pulled all the seams out. I used the pieces as a starting point and came up with a yoked back no collar kind of renaissance peasant shirt. They had a more modern sleeve/arm hole configuration but each sleeve used a full yard of fabric. I managed to get a company to sell me wholesale priced raw silk and made quite a few of these that I would sell at local shops.
I AM THAT NONBINARY PERSON WHO JUST WANTS TO LIVE MY POOFY SHIRT LIFE HOLY HELLS YES THANK YOU
Yass, Benjamyn!
@@benedictdwyer2608 I love your username
@@ClovertheUnburnt thanks, bestie! Picked this name (biscuit) out by myself (with the help of a random internet person)
@@benedictdwyer2608 round of applause for the use of 'bestie' as a gender neutral friendly term. I like that. Also that random stranger on the internet sid right by you. 👍
@@ClovertheUnburnt thanks! I started using bestie ironically, but then I started using it sincerely and now it’s one of the only things my older sibling and I refer to each other with.... WHAT’VE I DONEE???
Damn these youtube craftspeople have the best terminology. "Pulling threads," "spitting tacks," &c.
@peacelovechocolate I'm trying to make a shirt using this vid, but I'm using cotton instead :(
On the plus side cotton rips nicely along the straight grain, so 'cutting' out was great fun.
Alternate title: Historically accurate sewing sponsored by Skillsh-arr!
bye
I really hope she shows this to her skillshare contact.
I send this to literally everyone when introducing them to your channel. Your commentary about non-binary folks makes my year. I’m a she/her but inclusivity and smashing the patriarchy for the win. Thank you for getting me though the pandemic and reinvigorating my love of sewing. I sew “modern”, “edgy”, “goth” clothing but I reference historical dress all the GD time. Cuz why not. You’re the best. And I too had a lovely little pig myself growing up. They are wonderful. Mine was super snuggly too. Her name was Fawn. It warms my heart to see Your little man and his little piggy feet!! 😻
Please just give me all the POOF! I think I need about 15 of these for all occasions. Thank you, Bernadette, for making this for us up and coming apprentice pirates with only basic needle skills.
Apprentice pirates? Hm... They’ll most likely kill you in the morning.
@@spacewolfcubshhh... Don't give them any ideas, I'm currently keeping a low profile hoping not to get noticed.
How dare my notifications not work! Almost a full day has passed and I am just now notified of this masterpiece?? Also, love the frolicking!
Oh, the notifications worked if you just got one about 20 minutes ago. They just go secretly live early to Patreon patrons 😉
@@HomeWithMyBookshelf thank you! I was so confused til i read this!
Ohhhhh can’t believe I’m only watching this one year later! This FABRIC. oh my word. This just sparks total sensory input for me. I miss the gauzy flowy linen that was popular and prevalent in the 80s. Where has it gone???
This shirt is amazing, but... can we *please take a moment to appreciate Bernadette's hair* and how it was absolutely put on this earth to romantically cascade behind a pirate shirt during a dramatic slow-motion running sequence?!?!
That pirate shirt is so awesome! I just love these things you are making.
I'm constantly in total awe of your drafting skills! If you could make a video explaining the basics of it or link/discuss some resources on how to draft clothing that would be amazing! Thank you!
These videos are so amazing! And the way it's filmed is so cool too. Its just like the detail she goes into and the music she uses make everything so interesting! It almost feels like I'm watching a documentary which for me isn't a bad thing because I love learning about all this stuff! Love your videos ❤️❤️❤️
Bernadette: "I'm pretty sure there are no rules in piracy."
Me, a well educated young woman : " The code is the law ".
...
wink wink Captain Teague
My god- my journey of being fashion designer especially with a dark acedemia concept would be difficult but I know it's gonna be worth it! Thank you so much!
Someone : What is your kind of guy?
Me a woman of culture : MrDarcycore esthetictrash.
Ah yes, we all love a fine gentleman.
The puffiness ❤️ it looks lovely and supremely comfortable, absolutely amazing for dramatically lounging at home
A leisuring shirt! Yes!
MY GENDER IS PIRATE AND ITS READY THANK YOU BERNADETTE
Me: A poor college student who defiantly don't have the time nor space to make a pirate's shirt.
Also me: *taking notes religiously and looking through fabric all while planning to dress like a pirate for the Halloween costume party we'll definitely don't have*
Look for a nice-quality (high thread count) cotton sheet or two from a thrift shop! They go for pretty cheap and in many colours!
To add to my own reply, I made a slightly-modified version of this from an old, bamboo fiber bedsheet. I love it!
I've just started sewing thanks to you! When I originally found out that we were going to be wearing masks for a while, I realized I couldn't walk around with what other people were wearing. So I decided to over-complicate things (as per usual) and learn embroidery. That's what made me end up seeing your channel somehow! I got a beginner's sewing machine and have been practicing by hemming the masks that I embroider! Now I want to move onto making this shirt (by hand-sewing, which is so much more relaxing!)! Thanks for being, if you'll excuse the term, "competence porn". I haven't seen a single video of yours that hasn't drawn me all the way in and inspired me to create!! Thanks!!
The fact that #bipirate is trending on tiktok at this exact moment and that you just posted this is honestly blowing my mind. I'm in.
the fact that it's not called #Birate is a tragedy.
"There are no rules in piracy".
There is a code, but the code is more like guidelines.
I've watched this wonderful video about 10 times already, and only finally just understood the gusset stuff so I'm commenting to commemorate the occasion 😁 fingers crossed I'll fully understand everything when I finally get around to making this shirt 💪🏼
so you’re saying instead of *waiting* for my Mr. Darcy/Byronic hero, I can *be* Mr. Darcy?
... very good
hot take: pirate aesthetics > dark academia
He world of acadaemia is accepting-nay welcoming-to those of us with of an eccentric bent.
Why not both?
Pirate aesthetic IS dark academia ;)
Bernadette really pandering to all the lesbians in her audience with this one
Bernadette really pandering to all the wlw in her audience just by existing lets be real :/
As a lesbian, I can confirm.
All of this is correct.
And non binary people. I'm non binary and a pirate shirt sounds like the perfect thing to use if you don't have a binder.
oliver #blm ooooh true
Me: has been wanting an Adam Ant/Count of Monte Cristo shirt for months.
Bernadette: makes a shirt.
Me: oh hey I guess I have to make a shirt now wait where did all this fabric come from so now we're doing this I guess???
Not only do I love your content about history of clothing but also your great mindset. It's like you have an antique taste in clothes but ahead your time mindset. Also as a nonbinary person I really appreciate the mention 🐦
i'm aspiring to create a pirate shirt of my own. roughly how many yards of fabric (or, more likely, bedsheets) would i require to create such a shirt? or do i just have to take a wild gander? (i say bedsheets because my mother has circa a million old bedsheets at her house and has no clue what to do with them, so i'm taking some off of her hands and making sewing projects out of them.)
on a slightly more unrelated topic, i appreciate the inclusion of nonbinary folk into your content, bernadette. it makes tiny enbies who aren't accepted by their families and are generally just very confused and sad (aka me) feel a little more accepted and happy.
in her caption she says she uses about 2 yards, so that's probably a good place to start!
I am a US size 16 and used a little less than 2 yards of 50" wide fabric. I had some fit issues, that I am going to have to fix, like the sleeves and collar. I was thinking maybe do a bust adjustment, but I do not know where to put it though. Also, I think I need to rotate the shoulders, but that would mess up how the arm goes in? An advice would be appreciated, especially since you are making this too.
I used 3 yards of 36" wide fabric to get the selvedges on each side and I still had a few scraps left over for patches.
A single bedsheet should be more than enough to make a shirt so yay make circa a million!
Ngl I started crying when she mentioned nonbinary people. I don’t come across a lot of support in my life so even though it comes from a person I don’t even know over the internet, it’s enough.
And yes I am definitely going to be making one of these shirts
I had a similar though less intense reaction, also she has a nonbinary sibling!
Cotton bedsheets! Easy to find at thrift stores and easier still to make perfect on-grain squares with by ripping it.
Hi Bernadette! I'm currently making myself a pirate shirt!! Things are going really well but I'm pretty damn unexperienced. I was wondering if you would be able to post more pictures of your shirt for reference? You've done a wonderful job with the tutorial, I just need a bit more visuals for areas like the collar and the bottom of the shirt. I can't quite tell what you did for slits at the bottom lol. Thanks and love you
I was trying to figure it out also, and from what I can tell, the neck slit is just folded over and felled down? I think? I was trying to find a more detailed tutorial online, but there aren't any, probably because doing something like that would be virtually impossible with a machine, I think.
This is probably way too late, but as I'm making this, I've run into similar problems.
For the slits at the bottom and the front slit, they are finished like the slit on the sleeve--turned over and felled down, then reinforced with the patch. The bottom edge is similarly turned and felled down to finish it.
For the collar, from what I can tell, you see her section off the collar for the back and two side bits that fold to the middle. I believe you gather all the excess fabric from the back of the shirt into the back of the collar. Then you take the front bit of excess fabric on each side and gather them into each of the two flappy bits on each side of the collar that you sectioned off before. At the end, you should have one seamless collar that goes from the back and around the front bit.
This is what I will be attempting eventually, so I'll let you know how that works out for me lol hopefully my verbal explanation is helpful to someone 😅
Look for videos on how to make chemises or shifts. They are very similar. Only real difference being the collar.
Each time I watch one of your videos its more smart and wonderful then the one before. You are adorable
Those gussets: arrr the key to successful cutlass wielding.
I love my sewing machine, but I do love watching you use old world techniques to create garments
Since watching Outlander... this is exactly what I’ve been looking for
One can never have enough puffy sleeve shirts. And naming each one different might as well excuse making more than one. Pirate shirt, poet shirt, i-am-fabulous-and-not-straight shirt...
I LOVE "poet shirt". Now I want to sit in an oak paneled library by candlelight wearing one of these and writing with some not very historically accurate but very aesthetic and pretty quill pens!
@@agimagi2158 Yes!! Please! You're my kind of person!
@@thevintagewriter9079 Aww :)
Someone else also suggested vampire shirt!
Idea for list: Leisure shirt, for all your leisuring needs!
I just watched “La Revolution” on Netflix and I kept thinking about this video whenever they were dressed in just their pirate shirts! :)
I had the captions on and these music descriptions are *chef's kiss*
How I wish I had your hand skills!! Practice, practice, and dedication.
A day and a half later, I now have a pirate shirt 😍 I used modern sewing methods, mostly by hand but did the long hems and long seams on the sewing machine (and I'll add the button holes with the machine as well). I think I did the arm gussets too small though, but apart from that 👌🏻 Thank you for the tutorial!!!