You might find you need a bit more clearance between the starter bulge on the bell housing and your steering box to allow for engine movement on the mounts under torque reaction. It might just be the video but it looks a bit tight. While you have the sump off, rotate the crank and mark a bit of cardboard with the extremities of crank / bottom end swing, so you know how much space you have to play with when modifiying the sump pan. When measuring for fit up, it's always better to work from a machined flat datum surface such as the top of the block or the bottom of the crankcase / block bottom rather than rocker covers or sump pans. Older ones especially might not be as flat and square as they appear. Good steady progress, great to see people who are willing to both share and learn. Keep it up.
Great to see the progress you're making on the Austin 7 build. Looking forward to the big reveal in the next episode regarding the body style you've chosen. Hope you get to 11K subs soon. 👍👍
11k isn’t far away at all and hoping to be at 15 by Christmas 🤞hopefully you like the body style!! Hopefully the video will be out within the next 3 weeks
Nice project. If you do anything non VSCC eligible (like the engine) do it in a way that you could later swop in a periode part and comply with the eligibility demands later on. You never know what might be
A quick Austin 7 engine is relatively cheap and easy, and that's enough for hillclimbs. Making it strong and reliable enough to race is the money - which is the new crankshaft and then all the "if I've spent that on a crank I really should also..." stuff.
@@Metal_shaper_tom that was a joke about the size of it. The local farm store has a 2-seater go kart, for sale, and they appear to be the about the same size! the go kart does have a roll cage, though, so I'm pretty sure you're nuts. I would drive the hell out of it!
Brakes - Im using those pedals in a frame to mount a reliant engine on a chassis for my young friend. That chassis has had a hydraulic brake conversion. Are you staying with cables? The usual conversion uses morris cylinders just post war and nobody has yet worked out anything to use something more modern. Every now and then someone does a batch of back plates, some cast some welded. For myself ive stuck with cables with some modifications. Am sure theyll be a way to link that brake pedal to cable system BUT the obvious cheap quick and easy is somethong like the original brake which pulls a rod attached to the end of that cross shaft.
Even though I could have hydraulic brakes, I am going to have it set up with cable brakes and see how they perform. The reliant pedal box is a good option, but my friend seems to think we should be able to keep the original Great Lever from the Austin, which would be fantastic if I could.
Keeping with the cables and the original pedal, even if you need a new tie link back to the cross bar, should be straight forwards. SHOULD be...but this is special building :) Then the clutch....even with the original Reliant box I had problems with the cable run so came up with something weird. When I don't need the hydraulic brakes (I'm working on a solution for a young friend with hydraulics then will get back to my Mk2) my plan is to not have all the supporting structure. While I liked the idea of a factory part for something as critical as the brake pedal (I'm improving but not an experienced welder) I'm more comfortable with "home made" for my clutch.
With your skills, even if longer term you might have hydraulics, I'm sure there will be a better "under the floor" solution. I've seen lots that scare me. For my young friend I'm being (in special building context!!!) conservative.
Handbrake - I put mine on the outside and used bits of yacht rigging to link directly to the levers. If you like that look or run out of space vs the gear lever i can share some photos via the facebook group. I got a local mot welder to put the bracket on (30yrs ago) and its one of the things i might improve before the new body goes on.
I have every intention of putting the handbrake to the outside. I’ve got a chap who is helping me at the moment called Simon features in the video and he’s worked it all out for me
I've watched his films now. Am looking forward to seeing what the two of you come up with. That coupe/saloon has a lot of shape in it. Even more ambitious than the recent "Highland Coupe" that's been on facebook and I think flicking through in the "WHS Reading Room" the Automobile magazine.
Nice, after a decent reliant 850 engine myself for my trike project..just trying to get the rear end mocked up first..was intending to use original reliant frame which is galvanised, so now I'm thinking I would get a frame made from 4×2 box tubing...which I would have to source out as I don't weld...not sure if the galvanised chassis would weld together strong enough......look forward to the rest of you're build..enjoy it
I put a want on a reliant Facebook page and was offered a few! I would of thought the galvanised chassis should weld up fine as long as it’s cleaned up.
I’m really keen to see how this pans out. Specials are…. well… special! - I speak as someone who built, and failed to complete, a Locost. And it’s great to see how different people do similar jobs differently. So pendant pedals? Are there also motorcycles in your background? (Your floor mats say Kawasaki Racing). My present project is a small motorcycle special. Following with great interest! Les
Hi les . No motorcycle I’m afraid but maybe one day !! I’ve I’ve got the Matt as it’s good quality and was being chucked out. By making the project as public as this I’ve got to finish it! Lol 😂
Hi, we have a later axle which can be bowed but it has oversized king pin eyes. If you discuss with Ruariah Dunford whether it can be bowed or not it’s yours👍👍
Mig and tig welding cause the most ozone. Ozone in particular when tig welding. Exposure to ozone can cause fluid on the lungs. Get yourself an extraction system or better still an approved air supplied mask. (Not from your air compressor)
I'd need to go pull the sheets off my A7 special to check but it looks like the gearbox output shaft on the Reliant box is higher than on an Austin 7 gearbox. It could just be the angle in the film but it looks like quite an angle change is needed in the prop shaft from there to the front of the torque tube. You can't easily change the angle of the torque tube ball joint without some mods there from memory and if you do tip up the front of the torque tube too much I think that will mess with the rear spring mounts at the rear of the axle. When next out in my shed I will have to look to jog my memory. If you are going for an Amilcar look will you do offset seating? That really helps if you do a very narrow body so there is room for two in it without hitting shoulders. Looking forward to seeing how you get on with this build.
@@Metal_shaper_tom I looked at mine. I think not only is your gearbox higher, it's much longer than an A7 one. On mine it was tricky to measure but the bottom of the output flange was only about 2-1/4" above the crossmember with the curve in the middle of it. I couldn't measure to the centre line of the flange from under the car sorry. On yours the flange is both further back and higher up making the drive shaft angle worse. Not sure how people usually tackle that? Must be a way, people have been putting Reliant engines in 7s for years I think.
I wish I could but I only get a few hours after work and few nights a week so that’s why there’s always a. It if a gap between videos. I’m in Cheltenham
It a Four cylinder in line OHV water cooled Aluminium alloy cylinder head and block that makes 40hp its a very similar size to the original that only makes 10hp. It’ll be good for 80mph and is easily tuneable
Evening Bryan. It’s well underway. Hopefully the next episode will be out in a few weeks then it’ll give everyone an idea of what I’m trying to achieve. I don’t think I’ll need one ☝️ but thanks for the offer . Have a good weekend performing at the festival
Prop alignment - its something car people fuss over, with OLD cars with fabric couplings its really important and a couple of mm here and there can make the difference between nasty vibration and joints failing and a le mans contendor. My brother is surrounded by tractors and 4x4s and and is used to UJs going through huge angles. I'm nervous but my current design has the engine offset and a noticeable kink in the driveline. I might correct it, i might suck it and see...
I completely agree, this does get very mixed answer depending on who you speak to. This will have an angle change from the gearbox down, but I’ve heard off many people but this will be okay
It took a long time getting everything placed as it is - I'm trying to fit a different engine and make space for someone 6ins taller - so a good to hear you are hearing that.
Strange how I struggle convincing myself - but I remembered an Austin 7 example, and with lots more power. Lots of the single seaters have an offset rear axle and the engine in at an angle. I don't know if each uj does half the angle or the one at the back all of it or it varies but many folk thrash them. IT WILL BE FINE.
if you are going to enter any kind of competition, the first thing you must do is get an up to date copy of the regulations. I raced with VSCC and the 750 motor club quite some time ago. You don't want to turn up at a VSCC event and have the scrutineer say you can't compete with a Reliant engine. Same thing applies with the 750 mc. So decide where and what you want to do, and then build your car to comply with the regs that apply. You can waste a lot of money making the wrong thing! I found the 750 mc a super club to belong to. For VSCC, you need a good tailor. Enjoy yourself !
Thank you . Great advice. I know I wouldn’t be able to enter vscc with the reliant engine unfortunately. I don’t really want to compete if I’m honest. I just want a nice car to drive that I can take to a few hill climb events and take up the hill and have a go ( in a non competitive way )
You mentioned your not a mechanic, I beg to differ.
The way you swung that copper mallet true master mechanic style!
Love the videos, thanks.
😂 true! Thanks Richard
Excellent project, very interesting thanks Tom
Looking at what your capable of, I cant wait to see what body style you choose, keep it up 👍
Thank you! Hope have a new video showing it in a few weeks
You might find you need a bit more clearance between the starter bulge on the bell housing and your steering box to allow for engine movement on the mounts under torque reaction. It might just be the video but it looks a bit tight. While you have the sump off, rotate the crank and mark a bit of cardboard with the extremities of crank / bottom end swing, so you know how much space you have to play with when modifiying the sump pan. When measuring for fit up, it's always better to work from a machined flat datum surface such as the top of the block or the bottom of the crankcase / block bottom rather than rocker covers or sump pans. Older ones especially might not be as flat and square as they appear.
Good steady progress, great to see people who are willing to both share and learn. Keep it up.
Thank you for your advice 👍
Great to see you started on the Austin, glad your going the amilcar style to many ulsters about.
At least that’s one person on my side! 👍
Excellent beginnings, this is going to be good. Can't wait to see your body ideas.
Hopefully there be a video up in the next few weeks 🤞
Cool.looks like you're making such great progress on the build..
Thank you, it’s coming along nice and steadily. Hopefully the next video will be out in a couple of weeks
looking forward to seeing how it all unfolds!!
Just realised I watch your channel 👍
Looking forward to seeing the body design!
I can’t wait to show it
Nice looking start.
I'm sure there will be many changes as the project moves along.
Enjoy the progression.
Cheers joe 👍
Great to see the progress you're making on the Austin 7 build. Looking forward to the big reveal in the next episode regarding the body style you've chosen.
Hope you get to 11K subs soon. 👍👍
11k isn’t far away at all and hoping to be at 15 by Christmas 🤞hopefully you like the body style!! Hopefully the video will be out within the next 3 weeks
Nice project. If you do anything non VSCC eligible (like the engine) do it in a way that you could later swop in a periode part and comply with the eligibility demands later on. You never know what might be
Completely agree as I’d like to do vscc 👍
A quick Austin 7 engine is relatively cheap and easy, and that's enough for hillclimbs. Making it strong and reliable enough to race is the money - which is the new crankshaft and then all the "if I've spent that on a crank I really should also..." stuff.
Fantastic start Tom!
Cheers bob 👍
I bet you could have left out the starter to get more space for the steering box, then use the pull starter from a big Predator.
Loads of room if done properly 👍
@@Metal_shaper_tom that was a joke about the size of it. The local farm store has a 2-seater go kart, for sale, and they appear to be the about the same size!
the go kart does have a roll cage, though, so I'm pretty sure you're nuts.
I would drive the hell out of it!
Brakes - Im using those pedals in a frame to mount a reliant engine on a chassis for my young friend. That chassis has had a hydraulic brake conversion. Are you staying with cables? The usual conversion uses morris cylinders just post war and nobody has yet worked out anything to use something more modern. Every now and then someone does a batch of back plates, some cast some welded. For myself ive stuck with cables with some modifications. Am sure theyll be a way to link that brake pedal to cable system BUT the obvious cheap quick and easy is somethong like the original brake which pulls a rod attached to the end of that cross shaft.
Even though I could have hydraulic brakes, I am going to have it set up with cable brakes and see how they perform. The reliant pedal box is a good option, but my friend seems to think we should be able to keep the original Great Lever from the Austin, which would be fantastic if I could.
Keeping with the cables and the original pedal, even if you need a new tie link back to the cross bar, should be straight forwards. SHOULD be...but this is special building :) Then the clutch....even with the original Reliant box I had problems with the cable run so came up with something weird. When I don't need the hydraulic brakes (I'm working on a solution for a young friend with hydraulics then will get back to my Mk2) my plan is to not have all the supporting structure. While I liked the idea of a factory part for something as critical as the brake pedal (I'm improving but not an experienced welder) I'm more comfortable with "home made" for my clutch.
With your skills, even if longer term you might have hydraulics, I'm sure there will be a better "under the floor" solution. I've seen lots that scare me. For my young friend I'm being (in special building context!!!) conservative.
Handbrake - I put mine on the outside and used bits of yacht rigging to link directly to the levers. If you like that look or run out of space vs the gear lever i can share some photos via the facebook group. I got a local mot welder to put the bracket on (30yrs ago) and its one of the things i might improve before the new body goes on.
I have every intention of putting the handbrake to the outside. I’ve got a chap who is helping me at the moment called Simon features in the video and he’s worked it all out for me
I've watched his films now. Am looking forward to seeing what the two of you come up with. That coupe/saloon has a lot of shape in it. Even more ambitious than the recent "Highland Coupe" that's been on facebook and I think flicking through in the "WHS Reading Room" the Automobile magazine.
Nice, after a decent reliant 850 engine myself for my trike project..just trying to get the rear end mocked up first..was intending to use original reliant frame which is galvanised, so now I'm thinking I would get a frame made from 4×2 box tubing...which I would have to source out as I don't weld...not sure if the galvanised chassis would weld together strong enough......look forward to the rest of you're build..enjoy it
I put a want on a reliant Facebook page and was offered a few! I would of thought the galvanised chassis should weld up fine as long as it’s cleaned up.
Thanks, that's the first straight answer I've had regarding welding up the original frame..thanks
I’m really keen to see how this pans out. Specials are…. well… special! - I speak as someone who built, and failed to complete, a Locost. And it’s great to see how different people do similar jobs differently. So pendant pedals? Are there also motorcycles in your background? (Your floor mats say Kawasaki Racing). My present project is a small motorcycle special. Following with great interest! Les
Hi les . No motorcycle I’m afraid but maybe one day !! I’ve I’ve got the Matt as it’s good quality and was being chucked out. By making the project as public as this I’ve got to finish it! Lol 😂
Hi, we have a later axle which can be bowed but it has oversized king pin eyes. If you discuss with Ruariah Dunford whether it can be bowed or not it’s yours👍👍
Thank you Martin that’s very kind 👍
Mig and tig welding cause the most ozone. Ozone in particular when tig welding. Exposure to ozone can cause fluid on the lungs. Get yourself an extraction system or better still an approved air supplied mask. (Not from your air compressor)
I'd need to go pull the sheets off my A7 special to check but it looks like the gearbox output shaft on the Reliant box is higher than on an Austin 7 gearbox. It could just be the angle in the film but it looks like quite an angle change is needed in the prop shaft from there to the front of the torque tube. You can't easily change the angle of the torque tube ball joint without some mods there from memory and if you do tip up the front of the torque tube too much I think that will mess with the rear spring mounts at the rear of the axle. When next out in my shed I will have to look to jog my memory. If you are going for an Amilcar look will you do offset seating? That really helps if you do a very narrow body so there is room for two in it without hitting shoulders. Looking forward to seeing how you get on with this build.
Built mine with offset seating. Works well two lots of hips wide but no clash of shoulders and elbows.
That’s what I plan to do 👍
Thanks for the info 👍 much appreciated
@@Metal_shaper_tom I looked at mine. I think not only is your gearbox higher, it's much longer than an A7 one. On mine it was tricky to measure but the bottom of the output flange was only about 2-1/4" above the crossmember with the curve in the middle of it. I couldn't measure to the centre line of the flange from under the car sorry. On yours the flange is both further back and higher up making the drive shaft angle worse. Not sure how people usually tackle that? Must be a way, people have been putting Reliant engines in 7s for years I think.
This will be a fascinating watch please do a weekly say Sunday night youtube video. we will be willing it along Whereabouts are you ?
I wish I could but I only get a few hours after work and few nights a week so that’s why there’s always a. It if a gap between videos. I’m in Cheltenham
Neighbor back in the 80s has a " hill climb special" wish I knew what happened to the car
Can you tell me more about the engine? I’m from the states, that’s looks like a nice compact package.
It a Four cylinder in line OHV water cooled Aluminium alloy cylinder head and block that makes 40hp its a very similar size to the original that only makes 10hp. It’ll be good for 80mph and is easily tuneable
great episode mate ...so it begins ....really excited to see that body come together ....is one of those axles i have any good???
Evening Bryan. It’s well underway. Hopefully the next episode will be out in a few weeks then it’ll give everyone an idea of what I’m trying to achieve. I don’t think I’ll need one ☝️ but thanks for the offer . Have a good weekend performing at the festival
played yesterday mate ...
@@Metal_shaper_tom
Prop alignment - its something car people fuss over, with OLD cars with fabric couplings its really important and a couple of mm here and there can make the difference between nasty vibration and joints failing and a le mans contendor. My brother is surrounded by tractors and 4x4s and and is used to UJs going through huge angles. I'm nervous but my current design has the engine offset and a noticeable kink in the driveline. I might correct it, i might suck it and see...
I completely agree, this does get very mixed answer depending on who you speak to. This will have an angle change from the gearbox down, but I’ve heard off many people but this will be okay
It took a long time getting everything placed as it is - I'm trying to fit a different engine and make space for someone 6ins taller - so a good to hear you are hearing that.
Strange how I struggle convincing myself - but I remembered an Austin 7 example, and with lots more power. Lots of the single seaters have an offset rear axle and the engine in at an angle. I don't know if each uj does half the angle or the one at the back all of it or it varies but many folk thrash them. IT WILL BE FINE.
I think provided the crank centre line is parallel with the pinion shaft does it matter that it's offset?
Tom where are you based please? Thanks.
Fair point James. I’m in Cheltenham
if you are going to enter any kind of competition, the first thing you must do is get an up to date copy of the regulations. I raced with VSCC and the 750 motor club quite some time ago. You don't want to turn up at a VSCC event and have the scrutineer say you can't compete with a Reliant engine. Same thing applies with the 750 mc. So decide where and what you want to do, and then build your car to comply with the regs that apply. You can waste a lot of money making the wrong thing! I found the 750 mc a super club to belong to. For VSCC, you need a good tailor. Enjoy yourself !
Thank you . Great advice. I know I wouldn’t be able to enter vscc with the reliant engine unfortunately. I don’t really want to compete if I’m honest. I just want a nice car to drive that I can take to a few hill climb events and take up the hill and have a go ( in a non competitive way )
plasma cutter! That's cheating ;-) . Very nice brackets considering that they are temporary!!
Thanks . The amount of times I forget to even get the plans out and use it! Very handy to have
loving this build, how do i send you a sticker?
Great 👍 email me on cheltenhamvintageandclassic@gmail.com
My volume is at 100% but it is difficult to hear what you are saying for the first 5 minutes, another good video though.
Ok I don’t know why that is as the first 5 minutes are on a microphone 🤔 thanks for pointing it out as I check and see what the problem was
Is the giveaway prize exchangeable to a Paypal form?...it is much more expensive to ship to my country, but i can buy it afterwards after i win tho
No it’s not unfortunately
Please i want to follow your videos but the sound is so bad ??.thank you i enjoyed what i could hear .