Finally a clear instructional. Thanks for giving us more ways to spend our money. Haha ! No but really, thanks for the info! Not enough rs660 info out there.
I appreciate the feedback! That’s kind of what I was shooting for. I know I don’t like sitting through long intros so I try to make the videos as short and concise as possible.
@@skwidvids .. When you get monetized, your videos need to be about 8.5 minutes to be eligible for advertising. You may know that already, just an FYI.
Awesome, clear tutorial. Paired the woodcraft top triple with bonamici clip ons, domino grips, and spider levers. No bodywork modification needed. Thanks again!
That was a great piece of work. Well done. Can I ask where you got the race fairings? Also, how do you find the bike on track? I currently have a Triumph 675r and its great but I really would like one of these. They look great and sound great. I also think they are fast enough for a mere mortal like myself. All the best from Ireland!
Thanks for the feedback! I got the fairings from Woodcraft. They are Armour Bodies. Really good quality. I had a 675r and if I were to compare the two bikes, I’d say the 660 feels like a slight downgrade as far as power and chassis. The 660 is a different class of motorcycle though. For what it is, it’s a great machine. Fun, flickable and for a small parallel twin, the motor is snappy and offers good power. Excellent street bike with all of the rider assists and comfortable(ish) seating position.
@@skwidvids Thanks for that info. Yeah, I have to admit the 675r is pretty much all I need. Fully loaded with Ohlins and the previous owner fitted a TC system too. Still the 660 looks and sounds cool. My wife is seeking help for my addiction!! Cheers
hi, love the video! Just quick question, when you cut/replace the brake hose, how did you do that? drain the reservoir/master cylinder then replace the hose and then bleed the calipers as well? I am about to install the woodcraft clip-ons and armour bodywork, not sure what is the right procedure I should follow, thanks
Thanks for the feedback! The easiest method is to drain the reservoir, pinch the line (I used needle nose pliers, and remove the line. Make sure to measure and cut the new line ahead of time. As long as you keep the bars in place, air shouldn’t make its way into the master cylinder because there will still be fluid in it. Be ready with damp rags or paper towels to clean any spilled fluid. Install the new line, mount the reservoir then add the fluid back into the reservoir. There may be air in the new line but you can usually pinch the line to move the air up into the reservoir. If you think you have air in the system, start by bleeding the MC. That will most likely be the only place air has made its way in. If at all.
@@skwidvids Thanks for the reply! how do you deal with the fluid in the original hose? I understand reservoir need to be drained, how do you get rid of the fluid in the hose while you remove it from the reservoir as well as the master cylinder? Thx again
@@felixd4015 As I mentioned, I pinched the hose with needle nose pliers to as I removed it from the MC. Unless you’re bleeding the brake system, you don’t need to replace the fluid in the MC.
The top triple nut is a 26mm socket and is not easy to find. Also make sure to press on the nut as you crank as it is super low profile and the socket can slip very easily = rounded off nut and a ding in your tank.... ask me how I know.....
good stuff.. my 24mm didn’t fit and the 26 for the rear axle seemed too big.. is the top bolt a 25mm? also, are you going to use some steering stops to limit steering?
@@FutureProductionz239the biggest reason is that the stock ergonomics are more comfortable for street riding where you’ll be spending more time in the middle of your bike as compared to moving side to side like you would during track riding. The taller oem position also makes it easier to quick steer because you’re able to generate more leverage from a neutral riding position.
What adjustments did you have to make as far as fork positioning is concerned to maintain proper geometry? I guess same question would be for your Ohlins rear shock upgrade. I'm reading that there are some issues with the front tire hitting the radiator if forks aren't lengthened so I was curious about your take on this
Great video! Thanks so much for sharing.
Thanks for the feedback!
Finally a clear instructional. Thanks for giving us more ways to spend our money. Haha ! No but really, thanks for the info! Not enough rs660 info out there.
I’m just trying to spread the joy/burden of modifying a bike. Thanks for the feedback!
Thumbs up straight away. I like your intro. No B.S. "This is what I have. This is what I'm doing." 👍
I appreciate the feedback! That’s kind of what I was shooting for. I know I don’t like sitting through long intros so I try to make the videos as short and concise as possible.
@@skwidvids .. When you get monetized, your videos need to be about 8.5 minutes to be eligible for advertising. You may know that already, just an FYI.
@@skwidvids .. and you're welcome 😎👍
Great video man 👍🏼
Thanks for watching and for the feedback!
Awesome, clear tutorial. Paired the woodcraft top triple with bonamici clip ons, domino grips, and spider levers. No bodywork modification needed. Thanks again!
Thanks for the feedback and I’m glad it helped!
Another great vid my friend. Bodywork looks killer. 👍
Thank you!
Excellent job once again! Can’t wait to see this thing out at the track, hopefully for CRA Round 1? 👀
Thanks! It’ll be ready for CRA.
Very informative! Great video!
Hey, thanks!
That was a great piece of work. Well done. Can I ask where you got the race fairings? Also, how do you find the bike on track? I currently have a Triumph 675r and its great but I really would like one of these. They look great and sound great. I also think they are fast enough for a mere mortal like myself. All the best from Ireland!
Thanks for the feedback! I got the fairings from Woodcraft. They are Armour Bodies. Really good quality. I had a 675r and if I were to compare the two bikes, I’d say the 660 feels like a slight downgrade as far as power and chassis. The 660 is a different class of motorcycle though. For what it is, it’s a great machine. Fun, flickable and for a small parallel twin, the motor is snappy and offers good power. Excellent street bike with all of the rider assists and comfortable(ish) seating position.
@@skwidvids Thanks for that info. Yeah, I have to admit the 675r is pretty much all I need. Fully loaded with Ohlins and the previous owner fitted a TC system too. Still the 660 looks and sounds cool. My wife is seeking help for my addiction!! Cheers
Hey, as a new Tuono 660 owner- I'm psyched to have a peek over your shoulder to see how to access something.
Congrats on the new bike!
M8 hello great vid as usual!!!can you please tell me how wide is the sleeve on the base of the clip on?not its diameter its width.thanx in advance
Great job! 👍🏾I always thought he stock clip-ons seemed too high for aggressive riding.
Thanks! They'll do fine for the occasional track day rider but I think they're a little too tall for racing.
I got a set of jetprime steering stop that might help you.
I’ve been looking at those. I should probably scoop some up.
@@skwidvids hit me up, I got you.
hi, love the video! Just quick question, when you cut/replace the brake hose, how did you do that? drain the reservoir/master cylinder then replace the hose and then bleed the calipers as well? I am about to install the woodcraft clip-ons and armour bodywork, not sure what is the right procedure I should follow, thanks
Thanks for the feedback! The easiest method is to drain the reservoir, pinch the line (I used needle nose pliers, and remove the line. Make sure to measure and cut the new line ahead of time. As long as you keep the bars in place, air shouldn’t make its way into the master cylinder because there will still be fluid in it. Be ready with damp rags or paper towels to clean any spilled fluid. Install the new line, mount the reservoir then add the fluid back into the reservoir. There may be air in the new line but you can usually pinch the line to move the air up into the reservoir. If you think you have air in the system, start by bleeding the MC. That will most likely be the only place air has made its way in. If at all.
@@skwidvids Thanks for the reply! how do you deal with the fluid in the original hose? I understand reservoir need to be drained, how do you get rid of the fluid in the hose while you remove it from the reservoir as well as the master cylinder? Thx again
@@felixd4015 As I mentioned, I pinched the hose with needle nose pliers to as I removed it from the MC. Unless you’re bleeding the brake system, you don’t need to replace the fluid in the MC.
@@skwidvids Thx!
@@felixd4015 Happy to help! Let me know how it goes.
The top triple nut is a 26mm socket and is not easy to find. Also make sure to press on the nut as you crank as it is super low profile and the socket can slip very easily = rounded off nut and a ding in your tank.... ask me how I know.....
You’re right on both accounts.
@@skwidvids love your vids man! thank you for the RS660 content!
@@Omar411269 I appreciate the feedback!
Is there a reason why choosed clip on bar that mounted infront of fork vs side of the fork
Adjustability. You can make the grip to the bars wider or narrower.
good stuff.. my 24mm didn’t fit and the 26 for the rear axle seemed too big.. is the top bolt a 25mm?
also, are you going to use some steering stops to limit steering?
Doh! I realized after uploading the video that it’s not a 24mm. I used a 26mm and it fit.
you should have supported the front wheel off the ground... and adjusted the steering head bearings, while you are at it.
Have you think abaut Ram Air ?
I have. Seems like it would be beneficial but the cost and work required vs the potential gains isn't enough for me to justify it yet.
Would this be good for street? Is it worth it? Or should I just keep it stock? I just want it for more aggressive rider stance.
It would be fine for street but honestly, I would’ve left mine stock if I were riding on the street.
@@skwidvids why is that?
@@FutureProductionz239the biggest reason is that the stock ergonomics are more comfortable for street riding where you’ll be spending more time in the middle of your bike as compared to moving side to side like you would during track riding. The taller oem position also makes it easier to quick steer because you’re able to generate more leverage from a neutral riding position.
@@skwidvids i daily a zx6r and rc390 as well. So i dont really care much for the comfort but more for the aggressive look.
What adjustments did you have to make as far as fork positioning is concerned to maintain proper geometry? I guess same question would be for your Ohlins rear shock upgrade. I'm reading that there are some issues with the front tire hitting the radiator if forks aren't lengthened so I was curious about your take on this
Why did you make the bike so fre3aking ugly?
I didn’t make the bike.