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This Was TERRIFYING!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ส.ค. 2024
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With my MASSIVE DRILL ready to go, it was time to get these holes drilled in the half-sized Ranalah! But as usual, things don't go quite to plan!
Check out www.ranalah.co.uk to buy your merch and support the channel!
Music by @ashleyjamesharding: push.fm/fl/ash...
Thanks for watching! If you're enjoying my motorcycle restoration, please subscribe for free! You'll receive notifications when I upload a new video - every Sunday at 5pm (GMT)!
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LINKS:
www.dominicchinea.com
Dom's Instagram: / dominicchinea
Honest Jon's Instagram: / honestjon_
Ranalah Ltd's Instagram: / ranalahltd
Edited by Dan Cross: / djcross87
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Please, no! Not SurfShark!
The 'security' claim is just baloney!
Your 'data' is only protected from your PC to their very visible endpoints. From there to the server you want to reach, no protection.
What REALLY protects your data is the fact that YOUR web browser encrypts the data...
And if you switch on the Firewall in your Router and enable Microsoft's Antivirus system you're even better protected than what that sharkcrap does.
They only sell on being able to get netflix or other streaming services from other parts of the world, and the rather sad misunderstanding that just because major businesses uses VPN for their home office solutions all VPNs must be good. But they use systems that encrypt all the way from the user's PC and to their company's internal network. None of the traffic is ever exposed to the rest of the internet.
Those "GREASE NIPPLES" were OIL PORTS - if you pumped everything full of grease you done screwed up boy! Hahaha
Oil with grit and chips and swarf in it, runs away and can be cleaned off, when the grit gets in GREASE it turns into Valve-Grinding compound and destroys the machine
These guys ain't too swuft. At least they're being occupied by a junk machine. No harm done.
Worked on one of these radial arm drills, off and on, for 23 years. Lots of people asking why you’re not using coolant. If you’ve had any engineering background you would know that using coolant with cast iron turns the swarf into an abrasive paste. Not recommended where you want to preserve the accuracy of your machine slides ! At a push you can sometimes use paraffin.
Yeah I was taught that with cast iron, the, and I simplify for the sake of comment length: "stuff's" in it, acts as the coolant.
When you and John were standing around looking like two "children" wondering "what next", priceless. I have to commend you on your perseverance and continually amazed by the things you build to help attain your vision.
Dom, when you are feeding the cutter down through the workpiece, don't use the large diameter wheel which is directly in front of you. Only use that for positioning, once you are near to where you need to start drilling, pull the two handles which are on the same center as the large wheel towards you. Then use the small hand wheel which is under the head to feed the tool, you have much finer control and it doesn't take so much effort.
Best of luck with the project.
Perfect thank you!! That is super helpful
The nipples that appeared worn are actually meant to be that shape. They are oil nipples, most lubrication points on large machinery is oil rather than grease. I carried out maintenance and repairs on workshop machinery for the last 30 years of my career.
There should be a lubrication chart on one of the brass plates on the radial drill, saying which oil or grease to use ( some points will use grease).
They will have probably all been superceded by modern equivalents, but a quick Google will help you out there.
I hope this helps. I'm thoroughly enjoying all the projects you've got on the go , along with Make it at Market. Keep up the great work.
Thanks so much for the knowledge, I’m sure some grease will be better than nothing!
I appreciate the comments on make it at market, fingers crossed we can do another series this year!
Yes, any lubrication is better than none. They sure don't build machines like that anymore, 1952 and still as good as the day it was built.
No! Grease is not better than nothing. Use appropriate oil!
@@peterrehnstrom2867 What this man says Dominic! Grease risks blocking the oilways.
@@DominicChineas Unfortunately, that's not the case. Grease in machines tools where there is supposed to be oil is, well bad... lol. Grease holds chips, swarf, dust, grit, etc. and essentially turns into lapping compound, doing massive damage to close fitting sliding and rotating parts. Many of those fittings are going to be feeding shafts in plain bearings. Grease in those plain bearings is like starting the death clock for that old machine... You "might" be able to flush some of those areas with a lot of oil, but to properly fix it now is likely going to require disassembly. Honestly, substantial mistakes have been made and really should be addressed. I want to end this with something positive because I feel like im lecturing lol, you guys are great on video together, very fun to watch. Cheers.
Instead of having to rewire the wago box each time you change machine, just fit a 32A Commando socket, and 32A plugs on each machine, making them “hot swappable”
This would be far too sensible!
@@DominicChineas but Dom, judging by the number of projects you have on the go at any one time, don't you think a little sense is long overdue?
Yeah, what he just said!👍
Dom, as others have already mentioned those domed nipples are actually oiling points to be lubricated with a pump action oiler gun. They are often referred to as 'oil zerks'.
Grease will not lubricate those areas properly like proper slideway oil will.
Dear Dom
Yes, those are oil nipples NOT grease nipples. Several companies make an "oil gun" for Myford lathes. Even their newest machines still use oil fittings like this, so you can get a new item that will work on your drill.
Those 'grease nipples' may well have been oil nipples , if you use grease it will not lubricate as it should and block the oil ways with Grease. Try Lathes UK for a manual ?
They were oil nipples, they are supposed to be that shape, grease will cause excessive wear in time, the only guaranteed way to get it all out is to strip everything that's been incorrectly greased and clean it manually.
@@dutchgray86 I've mentioned the same point as you. They are often called oil zerks for lubricating with a pump action oil gun.
Agreed. Definitely oil nipples
@@howardosborne8647 Yea - Wanner made a really good gun - an essential on Myfords and the like. Using grease will destroy the bearing surfaces over time. The gloop out of the oil drain looked like grease that had made it's way in there - probably from a greased oil nipple overflow..
Watching Dom putting grease to those oil nipples made me cry. I have over 40 years maintaining and rebuilding all sorts of machine tools, the damage that I have seen due to using grease is heart breaking. If in doubt USE OIL! If it needs grease you will have to oil it more often. If it needs oil and you use grease, you will be replacing metal very soon. This is old British iron, if it leaks oil, it's working! Just ask a Triumph or BSA rider or a landrovr owner :)
For the future, you might want to think about making a stepped flat drill.
Start with gauge plate long enough to reach through both holes.
On the lathe, turn the sides of the plate for the diameters of the two holes, making the small one long enough to go through the bottom.
Heat treat to harden.
Then grind cutting edges at the end and the step at the big end.
Using this, you will always have the holes inline.
A long counterbore, basically.
Would love a 4ft radial in the shed, but alas no space. An Exploded Ranalah print poster would be cool.
The radial arm drill is a beast with all of the knob, levers and wheels. Watching you and Jon was like watching two kids in a candy store.
Not sure why you did not drill out the core and continue with the original cutter. I used to work one of these machines but a long time ago. A cracking bit of kit. I'm sure it will pay for itself. For the horizontal hole turn up a shaft to fit your new hole and sit it on v blocks for support. you can get or make these on a screw thread, clock it level each side and clamp the now vertical base with an angle plate. Hope that makes sense.
I was an apprentice in the machine tool industry. You need to skim the base first to have a good reference surface else how do you ensure the horizontal bore is square?
I wired up a 3 ph socket in my workshop, that way you can just fit a 3 ph plug on your machines that are not regularly used, t saves a lot of wiring, and also prevents an overload on the circuit in the event that more than one machine is used. Chris B.
In the past couple of weeks I've binge-watched nearly every one of Dom's videos, I've been glued to them. Well done Dom and John, really good stuff 👍😊
Captivating footage again Dom. I particularly like the bit where John is repeating your checks, not believing that you'd already done them! And the sudden lifting of the drill bed as you troubleshoot the electrical problem correctly. Brilliant and Keep em coming !
Worth noting those are incredibly top heavy when you swing the arm around, needs really strong anchor bolts, much more than you would think.Have a habit of falling over.
awesome tool, PS if you didn't know, these big Radial arm drills have an auto feed, like the screw cutting feed on lathes, so to do these holes single handed, you can set the feed, get the quill close, prepare the oil can, then engage the feed clutch, these also have stoppers in some models, which declutch this feed gear when the depth you set is reached.
Great to see the old machines come back to life. My lathe is 120 years old and now works fantastic. Not off a steam powered line shaft anymore but a pony motor makes it useable. Back when things were made properly.
Love to see that beauty come back to life!
1 - Maybe think about drilling the smaller diameter hole through both pieces as the first step. That way you know the lower part will be in line with the upper hole and you don't have to worry about things shifting or adding that other step of center punching it. As rigid as the drill is, I have no doubt that it could sink the larger annular cutter into the upper bracket without a bother. Make sense? Go all the way through with the smaller cutter, then switch to the larger cutter for that final movement, insuring that everything is naturally aligned.
2 - To get the next hole drilled 90º to the holes you've already made..... I would use a mag drill, not the big ol' beauty you just restored. Make some pins that will fit snugly into the vertical holes. To those pins, weld a flat plate that's at least 1/4" thick and as large as your mag drill, in a vertical orientation, so it can hold your mag drill in position to drill the horizontal hole. That way you know everything will line up just how you want. It would be a lot easier and less complex than trying to finagle the Ranalah around, dealing with hundreds of pounds of iron that could tip or fall or otherwise draw blood.
I don't see any way to easily hold the Ranalah in the big drill while also being able to reference the location of the two holes that you need to use as a reference. You could build all sorts of things that'd hold the Ranalah in the machine, but how do you get it so that the holes you've already drilled are in the correct orientation with the Big Ol' drill? Yeah, that'd be super-tricky, so the best bet is to just use the two holes you just made as the point of attachment for a stand-off plate your mag drill can clamp to. Quick and simple and far more economical than trying to build something to hold the whole casting!
Great to see you and John set the machine up and get it working. I remember having a tour around the Archdale Factory in Worcester who made Radial Drills and other heavy machines when I was about to leave school and seek an engineering apprenticeship. Ended up at another Worcester Engineering Company but didn't stick it out and went in other directions.
My dad was a machine tool maker at Archdale.
You might be in for a rebuild on that machine Dom. If you pumped those oil ways full of grease your in trouble. That was a huge mistake!!! Oil zerks Dom not grease nipples. They are very different. But you got that hole drilled. So that's a start.
I’ve learnt that! Thank you,
I doubt we have ruined the entire machine but I’ll take the advice on board thank you
Stickers ordered… letting my mind wander, I came up with Ranalah rolling pins as a suggestion: pastry rollers leaving an array of Ranalah machines impressed in the dough. 🤣
More sensibly, pin badges, water bottles, cups (both ceramic and antispill travel types), hats and t-shirts are all things I would consider buying.
Well done Dom and John,slow and steady wins the race. Thanks for the video.👍👍
That was brilliant,especially when it went up , your laughter was a joy.
Not brave enough yet to use the drill feed eh dom . Worked one of those in the 80s when I was 18 . Great machine but boy they can really bite back if not careful !
Was that gearbox oil an EP grade oil? EP oils have a tendency to eat bronze and brass parts such as bearings. It is better to use heavy hydraulic oil which has additives that don't attack copper.
Dom, you guys have done a fantastic job!! As long as you’re making forward progress you’re doing good.
My son and I started a business where we’re producing a dirt bike part and it’s crazy how much work we’ve had to pour into it, hard to know how much it takes till you’ve done such a job.
Thanks for sharing your experience, it’s been a great inspiration for me.
Amazing machine! Could you have avoided making a centre finder as follows? Punch the centre for the top hole and start it with the large drill, making a scratch pass to locate the bit, then swap it out for the smaller bore and drill through both parts leaving a ring on the top part marking the outline of the larger hole. Swap the larger bit back in, locating it in the initial scratch cut. Then drill out the larger hole. Re merchandise: pencils. Can't get enough pencils. Even better if you can get Blackwing. Love the channel, thanks. G
Well done, two precisely drilled holes! But the time, fiddling and, I assume, funds to get the machine working properly made what might have been a simple and straightforward task a complicated and convoluted one. Good that the machine is working well now thanks to the assistance of both of you, and the next part of the job can commence.
Hi Dom & John.So Good to seeyou both working from nothing to a start well done to you both.
Roll on the next episode. Good luck to you both.
Yes I see other people have said the same thing they’re oil nipples not grease nipples use something like trans 250 or trans 160 Hope this helps Michael.
That machine is absolutely amazing. Well done for getting it back in action
Thanks 👍
Actually finished work an hour early to day and rushed home to my Happy place, pint of cider and Dom on youtube. Another great episode, even Wendy didn't disappoint haha
Thank you! Pint of cider sounds fantastic
Lovely watching you and John bring that monster back to life😂. We have an old ‘50’s? Adcock and Shipley ‘X and Y’ radial drill at work and I love it! The old machines are the best! ❤️❤️🤘🤘
Some retro styled, sew-on patches would be really neat! That is a beast of a machine!!
Bravo! Absolutely fantastic. I love these old machine adventures.
If you look at the comments from the previous video, the manufacturer commented and have manuals, spares and service details 👍🏻
I have seen! Brilliant news!
Great to see you got a sponsor for this episode mate - that’s a magnificent step up 👌
I love your new Radial Drill !
What a machine it’s sad that the previous owner allowed it to go so long without proper maintenance.
I’m glad it’s in the hands of someone now who seems to have a passion for it.
I have to confess tho I stopped watching when I saw the “oil nipples” being changed for “grease nipples” iv spent countless hours of my life cleaning grease out of places it shouldn’t have been.
Grease and machine tools as a rule of thumb don’t mix as grease will 1 - collect chips and 2 - won’t reach all the way into all the areas that need lubrication and 3 - block any future attempts of oiling as the passages are plugged with grease !
( oil obviously is applied with no real pressure behind it due to the the design of most oil guns available )
Probably a few oil changes would be in order at short intervals due to the terrible condition of the old oil to flush it.
Lastly on a very important note these machines can kill in the blink of an eye as can any powerful spindle, I think it’s law in a workplace these need a “jet brake” thing that can stop the spindle in 1revolution when triggered , not saying you need to retro fit 1 but the absolute upmost respect and care is needed when operating this machine as it will literally kill you if it gets a hold of you.
I didn’t watch the full video but a note on gear box oils if there’s a sight glass say 1/4 the way up from the bottom it’s lightly exactly that just fill it 1/2,way. However some machines have sight glasses up high in the gear box to “show oil flow” so when the machine is off these will be empty and when running oil should be visible running just a thought if you’d not seen them it may not be immediately obvious what they are.
All the best with your fantastic new machine 👍🏻
You’ve just changed oil nipples for grease nipples be carful
The elevation motor wont operate with the lock leaver down. Also the head will remain in the same position while the lock is on (as long as the brakes are adjusted correctly) so drill your first hole, change cutters and drill your second hole, they will be in line, that is what the machine is designed to do. you may need to drill a smaller hole with a standard drill and enlarge with a reamer to get a more precise hole. they are a beautiful machine, a joy and a beauty to behold!!
T-shirts? Dom, the contacor is buzzing on the up/down. This is usually caused by wear or dirt on the faces of the soft iron around the coil. The mating surfaces that touch when it is energized just need flattening and cleaning
All that messing about with centre pop marks to get the cutter concentric with the first hole , conventional that would be done by keeping the spindle locked , take out the cutter , fit a drill chuck , small enough to pass through the hole and centre drill for the smaller cutter , or if the chuck is too big use a long series centre Drill , if you kept the spindle locked you should be able to put the second cutter though without the pin in any case . You say you can’t use white metal to fix the spindle , have you thought of resin, check out Belzona metal ,they have a very helpful technical department . Good luck.
Just ordered the stickers for my workshop. Very exciting. I don't do metal work at all but really enjoy these videos 😂
Awesome! Thank you!
Massive progress, well done!
I am surprised there is no facility to lubricate and cool the work piece while drilling. You'll do no better than having Jon on board. Your video content reflects your diverse interests and projects. I look forward to every episode. Many thanks.
Thank you!
I have been advised not to use coolant with cast iron, the speed was very slow and I was taking it very easy with the cut nothing got hot
Just ordered a Ranalah sticker pack! Looking forward to having the Ranalah logo on my workshop cupboards and cantilever toolboxes! Just my way of supporting you and appreciating what your doing Dom 👍🏻
That’s awesome thank you so much! I really appreciate it and hope you like them!
Excellent workmanship Dom, John is very much the perfectionist Ranalah is in good hands. Cheers
Time to make a wall plaque with 'Step by Step' operating instructions. Considering how you move from one project to another quite regularly, you will, no doubt, forget some small lever combination and have to fiddle with the 'Beast' till you re-discover it... A binder with 'Settings and Lube Schedules' will save a lot of time and reduce wear on your 'new' shop tool...
You could just drill the holes and machine reamer to final size at one setting, machine reamer quite easy to get . Adjustable machine reamers are available 0:30
You should have got the bed levelled to the axis of the pillar and the drill should be grouted to the floor of workshop (elf and safety) as you could tip the radial drill over with weight of workpiece.bottle jacks made from box tube and boiler plate and some decent sized screws and locknuts. You also need a good selection of morse tapers for adapting to drills.
Just saw the website, Dom. Looks fantastic and I’m as excited as you are to watch it grow.
Deffo get some T-shirts done.
That's one heck of a spotweld cutter!
The suspense almost caused me a heart attack…i kept thinking “what if one is slightly off “ 🤪🤔😁
Good progress Dom, glad you got the drill running. 👍
One restoration after another… side project after side project… yep, same for me too… love it👍👍👍
Use the two aligned known good holes to hold a gauge rod. Flatten and square one end and drill an appropriately located aperture through it.Assuming the centreline of the rod is perpendicular to the base, then the centreline through the top which is at 90 degrees to the gauge rod, is parallel to the base. Rotate the Ranalah on its back, clamp plentifully, mic the rod against the drill bed, or at 90 to centreline of drill path. Align drill bit with aperture, then drill.
That is exactly what we did!
So exciting to watch what will happen when you and John have no idea what you’re doing 😂❤. Just love your banter with Wendy included! I also squealed when the brass plate gave you the age of your monster drill……it’s as old as me😮🎉. Can’t wait till next week!👏🏼❤️👏🏼❤️👏🏼
Hi try centre your top hole drill to one 1/3 down then change your call bit for the small hole drill all the way through to your bottom hole then come back and finish your top hole if you know what I mean!!
Espresso cups would be great! 4 Ranalah cups on the top of my espresso machine would look great!
Hope to see some merch on this years revival!
Nice enamel mug maybe?
Radial arm drills MUST be be securely bolted to the foundation, to prevent overturning if the arm is swung out sideways.
dom get a 1 foot length 8 inch square heavy wall drill and tap it to fit the base of the ranalah then turn the ranalah on it's back drill 2 more holes in the side of the 8 inch square and place it up against the side of the heavy drill and bolt it up also clamp near the top hole then you can drill the top hole the ranalah will be clamped sideways to the heavy drill just like before but on it's back keep up the great content cheers from down under
I can tell you if that beast was being set up in our garage it really wouldn't have been such a good humoured exercise!! Very well done!
1. Stickers (sold out?! Really? 😢)
2. Key ring
3. Tiny Ranalah
4. Anything affordable that i can buy to support you/ help the cause.
(Incredible music editing in there Dan!)
Thank you! No the stickers aren’t sold out! I have 200 sets!
@@DominicChineas just relooked and ordered.
I'd endorse the tiny Ranalah. OO scale (1:76) to fit the miniature motor cycle workshop I am modelling. Would be small enough to use as a keyring but would also work on scale models. Could be 3D printed or pewter cast.
I loved the way thar the blank from the small hole landed exactly on cue!
When raising and lowering the arm, i think you were using the interlock on the mechanical lock to stop/start the power, i suspect the contacts are not designed for that operation. I suggest you unlock using the lever, then raise/lower using the other control, which looks like it is designed to make & break contact under load.
As others have said, the handle you are using for feeding is a bit course, engage the power/fine feed by pulling the twin levers towards yourself. There will be a feed speed selector that has a position to use the fine feed handle under the head.
Enjoy the machine.
Baldric.
Looks great Dom.
I'd be inclined to do something with the plugs you're drilling out. Maybe you could slice them up and do little discs as key rings or something.
All the best
Andy
Cool idea I’ll keep it!
A much simpler way to locate the centre of the hole is to turn a bar of the same diameter as the top hole with a 3/8 reamed hole in it, on the lathe and make a punch out of 3/8 bar. If you use silver steel the pointed tip of the punch can be hardened and it will last for ever. No need to destroy morse taper sleeves. The old tricks are the best.
The same tool can be used to position a hole at 90 degrees; make up sleeves with 3/8 reamed centres to fit in the holes you have just drilled. Then use a bit of 1” bar with 3/8 reamed holes in the centre and cross drilled, as the head. With the rods fitted through the holes the device can be used as a height gauge. Then with the job secured to an angle plate on the radial the gauge can be used with the test mandrel in the quill to ensure the drilling is at 90 degrees. It sounds long winded, but it is easily done, sorry I don’t know how to add a sketch.
This is basically what I have done for the top wheel location! You’ll see the progress Sunday but I am glad we had a similar process in mind! Appreciate the advice
The first step would be to level the base both ways with a machine spirit level & dynabolt it to the foor! Once level the main arm will be better balanced & not tend to swing unlocked. The main reason is to be able to level jobs knowing the machine is dead level as a reference!
Also make a dummy shaft to fit neatly thru first vertical hole, then you can set it square for other cross hole to be drilled. Thats why its important to level the machine properly! All part of learning new things, good stuff Dom.
Have you thought about producing t shirts with the Ranalah logo on? I think it would be a good addition to the range, make it look like its a vintage shirt
I’d buy one of those too 👍🏻
Boys and their toys 😢😮😅😊❤❤❤❤❤❤. Thanks for the show.Nick one arm 👴🏻💪🏼🏴
make your "T" nuts threaded as near to the width of the slots, tiddly 12mm will do, but just make your hold downs as big as possible for the slots.
Thetes a mix of oil and grease ports on that machine, hope you can clear out all the lubrication feeds for the sliding parts.
Dom, Maybe instead of using the mega drill, you can use a 90 degree mounting plate for the clamp on drill to rest on... it could attach to the slots on side of mega drill ? Then you would only need a good alignment gauge/tool referencing off the vertical holes you just made for clamp on to index from before drilling the perpendicular... That way once you set up the ranalah as you did on side tracks, it could remain in same place to drill the horizontal.
Terrific work decommissioning that radial arm drilling machine. It will probably run for another 70 years with a little TLC. 👍
I think I'd use the flat surfaces as registers to maintain squareness between the two axes. Machine those flat and square first.
Another way would be to turn up a close fitting mandrel to protrude both ends of the top hole, support it on V-blocks, and clamp down
Seems amag drill could have been more practical, less expensive, and taken up less for space if it could have been used to do this job. I could be mistaken about this. Nevertheless, you all made a fun and interesting video and I thank you. I apologize if I am wrong about the mag drill method.
I did try the mag drill in a previous episode!
👍 stickers bought, will have prime position on sewing box😅
Perfect! Thank you!
Oh my nothing would stop that drill!
If you have no idea what you are doing, leave the machine alone before it kills you. I have seen one of those cast steel cubes thrown off the radial drill when a three inch drill snapped, just missed killing two people as it flew across an alleyway. Also wear hairnets, as if you snag the rotating drill, it will tear your scalp off. Use proper Dormer drills, not drill bits designed for a portable drill.
Soo.....are you this rude, arrogant and patronising in real life.......!?!?
Yes, if you call it that. I used to be a Quality Manager in a Machine Shop, and seen some daft things done by machine operators. Big machines have large powerful motors, and do not take prisoners. @@andymccabe6712
Thanks Andy for the continued support! @andymccabe6712
Amazing 80 year old drill that's not been maintained is up and running without major fixes needed
After drilling the top hole, provided the second is to be coaxial, the machine is already on centre so just get on and the drill the second one. The spring loaded pin is not doing anything, to assist the alignment of the spindle on a machine that size. You'd be far better off using morse taper shank twist drills than mag drill bits. You be would be able to drill through both holes final size provided that you drilled a pilot hole all the way through both to start with.
Problem is the morse taper fitting won’t clear the casting at the top!
Holy crap! You do things just like I do them. This ought to be fun!
Great that you are going to all this trouble to get the wheels of the Ranalah perfectly aligned but I wonder if it is really necessary. You would still be pushing a curved wheel up against a flat one even with a small misalignment so the resultant curve to the panel would be the same.
50 years ago in my late teens I used to operate the exact same radial drill as your new toy when I was a trainee at an engineering firm in Crayford in Kent, I remember that it was easy to use and always made light work of drilling various sized holes on mainly large steel flange PCD's etc. when we were making new 36" and 48" pipework for local paper pulping mills and piles for the Thames Barrier Project. Nobody showed me how to use it, I just figured it out as I went along which I'm sure you will do too. I think you made a wise purchase there as those big Radial Drills can do anything from small to huge work, thank you all massively for these highly entertaining and informative videos you put out which in my opinion are one of the best shows on YT!
Thank you so much for the positive comment, really appreciate it
Be careful if you swing the head too far without fastening it down the whole thing. Can fall over been there when I first started work as a YTS in the 80s 🤭
Ouch!!
I crunched up a 2.5 inch drill in one of these. It didnt even grunt. Awesome drill.
I love my original Ranalah, but one thing that quirks me is that “Ranalah” is only cast on one side. Because of this I have to have the machine oriented so that the Ranalah words greet me every morning when I walk through the workshop door. How about OCD special version please with Ranalah on both sides? 😊…… ps I realise this would completely require a new casting pattern. Just saying. 😂. Cheers, Matt
Another great episode, thanks, my suggestion if its not already been said, a key ring with a mini ranalah, doesnt have to be big.
Hi Dom, don't forget to "stake" the underside of your new T-nuts. This will prevent your bolts or studs from bottoming out in the T-slots, and risk jacking the T-nut and fracturing the T-slot. Good luck!
I have no idea what it means to stake a T nut!?
@@DominicChineas to "stake" just means to go around the bottom of the thread with a centre punch. The object is to prevent the clamping studs passing straight through the T-nut. This is how the T-slots on machine beds are blown out.
Surely if the 2 holes are concentric then, providing the machine setup hasn’t changed, the smaller diameter drill will already be perfectly aligned.
I think the problem is, that they want a center mark in the middle of the lower surface to register with the center punch of the annular cutter, and that needs to be centered relative to the bore in the upper part. That's why he made a giant center punch out of the tailstock center. To reach down there and create a dimple.
As oil dribbles out in lumps - ‘that’s the morning after a bad night out” - we’ve all been there 😬🤣
Dom - perhaps you could offer autographed photos of you working in the shop.
That would be fun.
That lever you used to move the head up; up could be rapid feed movement, and down could be slow working feed.
Hmmm, buzzing relays, that may not be good, find out whats buzzing and look for arcing, some cheap/modern ones buzz anyway, old ones have bigger coils so buzzing often means arcing and require adjustment before all your contacts burn away.
Contactors of that vintage often had a copper reluctance ring set into the laminations which stopped the chatter due to ac . they would often come loose. A diode in series is often all that is needed to cure.
Dom,you can lock the big wheel in front of you and then use the small wheel un the underside to thr right to feed the drill down,it’s a lot easier than physically pulling on the large wheel.
Thank you I really appreciate the help!
I would be interested in t shirts branded up with Doms like the ones you have worn in the past on your videos
Another excellent episode Dom. I really enjoy these even though I have little or no engineering experience.
That makes 2 of us! Haha thank you for watching
To drill the second hole why not turn up an extension that has an OD that matches the ID of the first hole. That will locate the second hole perfectly concentric with the first.
I basically did this, I made a sleeve it’s the brass bit you can see on the shaft while drilling the second hole
I’d love a Ranalah vitreous enamel badge, no plastic, real enamel please. There are a few places that make them, you want one where the surface is polished flat, not hollow filled, cheers Dom, Love that drill!
The ranalah script or the illustration of a ranalah? I can’t decide?!
@@DominicChineas an illustration of the Ranalah with the name underneath please, it doesn’t need to be massive to support the detail needed 👍