thanks Dan for your reply it was the model I was enquiring about .I have just about completed a Reva Aquarama 1/6th scale from self drawn plans this is my first boat been an areo modeler until now. I'am thinking the temptress would be my next effort. your postings are most informative. awesome work shop I thought I'm spoilt ,but not now. keep up the great work.
Great video Dan. For anyone taking on this project, I'll just point out that all the chine landings should be carefully checked for combined fairness with a batten and dressed off accordingly just as the canted frame was. Any humps or hollows at this point are going to be transmitted into the chine lamination and you definitely don’t want to be correcting that later. I built a boat with a similar chine flat some years ago and I opted to change the configuration such that the bottom and side planking came together ove a standard chine log and then I built up the step outside of the planking with a series of solid wood stringers stepped to form the flat and faired off. Fillets and glass finished it off. I don’t know if my method offered and real advantages but I felt it made for a cleaner frame construction inside and eliminated plywood gussets. Not a criticism of your construction details whatsoever mind you. Just illustrating that there are always alternatives.
Thanks! Yes that’s a good point actually, with CNC cut frames and a laser accurate setup I don’t think so much about the need for this step as everything is soo close to where it needs to be right away. That of course can’t always be relied upon. I think I’ll aim to include this within the next video as it needs a mention really 👍
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding it’s not the machines that are the wild card here but the experience of the builder. I can envision globs of epoxy being overlooked in the set up or a cleanup operation removing material that should be there to keep everything fair.
It is a cyanoacrylate, it’s called mitre fast and sets in around 15 seconds once you spray it. Brilliant for building things quickly like I am. I wouldn’t use it on a full size boat though.
I'm not sure, they wouldn't be able to go round the strongback without cutting clearance holes in it. Also pressure wants to be applied directly onto the frame, doing this in between or even slightly to one side of a frame could pull the chine out of fair in between the frames. I would think pressure from above directly down on to the frame is the ideal clamping scenario.
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thanks Dan for your reply it was the model I was enquiring about .I have just about completed a Reva Aquarama 1/6th scale from self drawn plans this is my first boat been an areo modeler until now. I'am thinking the temptress would be my next effort. your postings are most informative. awesome work shop I thought I'm spoilt ,but not now. keep up the great work.
Great video Dan. For anyone taking on this project, I'll just point out that all the chine landings should be carefully checked for combined fairness with a batten and dressed off accordingly just as the canted frame was. Any humps or hollows at this point are going to be transmitted into the chine lamination and you definitely don’t want to be correcting that later. I built a boat with a similar chine flat some years ago and I opted to change the configuration such that the bottom and side planking came together ove a standard chine log and then I built up the step outside of the planking with a series of solid wood stringers stepped to form the flat and faired off. Fillets and glass finished it off. I don’t know if my method offered and real advantages but I felt it made for a cleaner frame construction inside and eliminated plywood gussets. Not a criticism of your construction details whatsoever mind you. Just illustrating that there are always alternatives.
Thanks! Yes that’s a good point actually, with CNC cut frames and a laser accurate setup I don’t think so much about the need for this step as everything is soo close to where it needs to be right away. That of course can’t always be relied upon. I think I’ll aim to include this within the next video as it needs a mention really 👍
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding it’s not the machines that are the wild card here but the experience of the builder. I can envision globs of epoxy being overlooked in the set up or a cleanup operation removing material that should be there to keep everything fair.
Great video - loved the music!
Glad you liked it! Felt like it was time for some new 🎶 on the 10th video.
Great work Dan ❤
Thank you 🙌
Enjoyed this video (as always)!
Great video, wait to see more
hi Dan love your temptress boat what glue are you using with an accelerator I can't use cyanoacrylate .
It is a cyanoacrylate, it’s called mitre fast and sets in around 15 seconds once you spray it. Brilliant for building things quickly like I am. I wouldn’t use it on a full size boat though.
I’m betting a fish & chips dinner that you are going to use Epifanes on the outer skin !!!
Whatever makes you think that 😁
Do you think using ratchet straps (around strong back) could be a good idea to put pressure on a wrapped chine ? (On full size model)
I'm not sure, they wouldn't be able to go round the strongback without cutting clearance holes in it. Also pressure wants to be applied directly onto the frame, doing this in between or even slightly to one side of a frame could pull the chine out of fair in between the frames. I would think pressure from above directly down on to the frame is the ideal clamping scenario.