For The Prepper Community: Addressing Rocket Stove Design Concerns
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- A short video addressing rocket stove design concerns from feedback from the prepper community.
Follow me on Instagram: / steel_forest_welding_a...
Follow me on Facebook: / analogmike1
Please Subscribe:
/ @steelforestweldingand...
I would also add that with your current design of stove legs you could easily use tent stakes to stake the stove to the ground increasing its stability.
Tent 🎪 stakes excellent idea!!!
Or rocks
Great idea. Even make a little hole on the stove for the stakes.
I was just gonna say the same thing but I just stumbled across this guy
Great idea sir!
Thank you for your work . built a few stoves already with all sorts of materials . my daughter has just completed a project for a science expo and it works wonders especially here in South Africa were we have goverment mandated rolling blackouts and cost of fuel and lpg gas have increased drastically . Shout Out from Cape Town South Africa
Happy to help in any way if I can, if you need any advice let me know.
Have a go at an ooni type pizza oven. I'd imagine it would be quite easy with your knowledge and equipment
Keep the design for the front legs except arch or angle the centerline surface up/in to prevent rocking on an uneven surface. Replace the rear foot structure and with a single leg for a semi-tripod approach to ease unlevel surface use. At the bottom of the back foot weld a large washer or a "V" shape perpendicular to the ground as a foot bottom allowing the use of a stake or very large nail to secure stove from tipping over.
Good observation!
Great design, dude, have a German cousin that met up with me several years ago talking about rocket stoves, fell in love with em. And the mass heaters and all, and all fuels that can be used...... wonderful stuff. Thanks for this. Well done.
Those legs are great for securing with tent pegs. thanks for the video...!
You're welcome! Tent pegs seem to be what most ppl recommend.
Possibly a little shorter - but a bigger plate support is needed like your X-Support but longer to better hold a pot or pan.
I'd also suggest 1/2" ReBar for legs - but - bent in an Inverter U shape so legs touch ground not cross piece. And the legs are semi-pointed.
The reason is that the stove is used outdoors in rocky/sandy/dirty environment and "pointy" legs will better set in that type of terrain.
In addition, they need to be splayed out and forward to provide a lot of stability. They are easy to make (2 bends) and put on (2 Welds).
The top skillet supports, as stated, need to be much bigger, it also could be removable by having it "slip on" the edge of the pipe.
You could use a tube and socket for the legs and the end of the legs have pivot feet. The legs come off and store inside so when in use they come out, fit into the sockets and are adjustable for length due to wing bolts on the sockets and feet pivot for un-even terrain. Much more complex and could be an option, but would get rid of the leg "length" (still need sockets for legs to fit into and they only need to be 1 to 2 inches long)
Option no. ?: You could weld up a socket that 1/2" ReBar fits into and they just sit in them with weight keeping everything there. Simple and the legs can be as long as you want. Just don't forget to angle them - outward would work best. 😁
My 2 cents (PS - what do they sell for? I've seen $225 to $500)
I'm glad I watched this video, I planning on putting in a ash dump on my first attempt but obviously not now. Thank you for posting.this.
as long as the ash dump is fairly tight they are just fine, and that was just my personal experience. A different design would probably work just fine.
Great video. Like said, you can't please everyone but, it's definitely nice to get feedback. I made my first stove about 11 years ago, something I just enjoy doing. I like your design, keep up the great work.
Thank you I appreciate it
yo man, don't stress about the haters, you did your research, you put in the time to gain the knowledge and clearly it paid of, I made my first rocket stove yesterday and seeing your video is really reassuring and forgive me for this but i am really temped to lend some of your designs for either my next stove of for modifications for the one I have now
I don't, I've grown a thick skin :) And ty. But these criticisms were far from cruel. Whenever you build a product you always have to deal with criticisms both positive and negative.
I have built a few stoves. A couple of things I could suggest. I find the best configuration for the grill is an X or an *, so that any size pot/pan from small to large is comfortable on top. Also, perhaps the door is overkill. I have an L shaped stove and just a moveable horizontal plate 1/2 way. It rockets amazingly well. Love your work (and humility).
@@douggief1367 I.
Agree the x shaped top is much better. I've upgraded my design a little bit since making this video.
What a cool video. You sound like a smart and nice guy. I'm subscribing and looking forward to seeing your welding videos!
Hi. The biggest issue with rocket stoves in general is that although they burn super efficiently, super hot, they also super fast. they don't retain heat.
I also found that the fastest way to boil water is to use a Kelly kettle, or Giddy(?) kettle, or storm kettle. Also secondary combustion stoves provide less smoke, more privacy and more efficient burning. So my suggestion would be: make double walled removable attachments that the average prepper can put right on top of the fire chamber. So instead of just the tall chimney, one could pop the secondary combustion chamber on top (it actually could surround the "fire chamber", the bottom part of the stove, and it could be a folding one too, then the water tank with the chimney middle could be popped on top to heat water, with inlet at the bottom & outlet at the top, using the thermosyphon effect for circulation. It would be much more efficient than the usual copper pipe coiled around the flue. I know it's complicated but with your experience you could narrow it down to the most straightforward and efficient design.
Nice work. It may be more unstable outdoors on uneven ground. Fixed legs are tricky as , the more stable , the less compact it is. A slight modification i would make is, lift the bar on the bottom up an inch . No extra work, just two more blobs of weld on each leg. It would make it more stable soft ground as you could push in an inch or so of the leg bar into the ground before the cross bar touched the soil.
I understand what you're saying. And with the current design it does do just that. With just a slight bit of pressure it will sit evenly on soft uneven ground.
That's what I was thinking to it's stable on flat surface, but if you go hiking you have to look for a flatter surface to place it on.
Nice work guy, keep up the good work!
Thank you!
I welded 2 round tubes to the bottom of my RS and slipped 18" rebars into them for a super stabled removable support.
Sounds like a great idea and thanks for sharing.
When I paused the video at 2:25 I can tolerate the one closest to you sweetheart. And maby the second one in the front row. And your right about preppers. Would love to send you a print out, of my design. And would insist on all stainless steel. Great video thank you so very very much sugar bear 🐻!!!
Don't want to criticize. I made one and used the solid rod that you have for legs to make the grate under the pan...I made my legs out of square tubing...Love your legs! my top grate makes it look like an indoor gas stove burner.
one thing I love about these stoves is how customizable they are. Everyone builds them a little different.
I love your rocket stoves, I want to model mine after those so I just went and welded myself a rocket stove, I used 2 inch square steel, I didn't have anything bigger, it's my second real time welding. I think it looks great! but I messed up my cuts and had to bridge two 3/16 inch gaps, that was tough, it took 3 welds and grinds to finish it.
Hey that's great! We all start somewhere. If you ever post a video of the stove in action be sure to please send me a link!
I just built my first rocket stove, and I put the legs on the side with some scrap I had(to prevent tipping). One thing I want to eventually add is like a drawer/cache on the bottom to clean out ash easier. Haven't figured out the design yet, I saw that you had a version like that. If you figure out a way to incorporate one that works efficiently , please make a video.
Awesome! Post a video of your stove when you have a chance.
I think he said in the video that unless it's air tight you lose force. That's why he went to a closed bottom. Re-watch & check it out. I'm watching these videos for my first attempt at building one. I was planning on a ash dump too, DARN IT.
Homey what you need is a 14, or 15 inch cold cut/dry cut chop saw, evolution is a great brand cuts tubing like that like butter clean cold no dust no heat..
Your 100% correct. That is the exact saw setup that I have. I made a video on that setup as well if you are interested.
I think most of my family and friends have received rocket stoves for Christmas and birthdays as I was working out my designs.
same here!
I don't know if anyone has already said this, but if you are using these outdoors, you could simply use some metal stakes on the legs and it would be rock solid my Brother. 😃 You could even sell the stakes as accessories.
sell stakes as well, good idea!
Or the deluxe wingnut adjustable leg $100 upgrade!
You could add a hand drive cork screw to help secure it firmly to the ground. Then it wouldn't be able to fall over.
All you need is a piece of rebar hammered into the ground and a wrap of bare wire around to secure it from falling over.
Drill holes in the feet for a stake
You value input like a professional, that is to me the only way to get better at anything. Sometimes it's not easy, especially as men, to hear "that can be done better", especially when you've demonstrated that you put a lot of time and thought into the final designs. I myself want to get into selling these on the weekends at flea markets or even online. Looking around on Etsy I see a lot of variety, but none that really stick out as profitable from a time standpoint. I try to use the k.i.s.s method whenever I'm fabricating something.
Thank you, I try my best. But I'm human just like everyone else. I've never had a problem with constructive criticism. In fact I value it. The kiss method is also what I tried using when designing these stoves. Simple and rugged.
i like your designs , being a aussie we like our back yard bbqs on larger plate / rack etc , soon i will be building one out of blocks , fire bricks and maybe some rocks ,thinking about also building a larger type rocket stove incorperated it it to use as a wok burner etc .. keep up the good work
I've seen people use cinderblocks as well. Might be a possible avenue to explore as well.
@@steelforestweldingandforge.... trouble is cinderblocks dont last long due to cracking which is why building the fire pit part of the bbq will line it with fire bricks..... but fire bricks really dont lend them self into a rocket stove design ... so thinking a metal r/stove incorperated into the block bbq even if i have to line it in with f/bricks to protect the blocks
@jeffpiper7430 good point, they will eventually decay.
I would rotate the handle like 30 degrees and shorten the stick connecting it by 30%. That way friction keeps it in your hand instead of using grip strength to hold it. Does it work with wood chips or sawdust pellets?
Looking at the design, if the feet were much wider it might start making the thing too bulky to have strapped to a backpack, so personally, If stability was a concern, I'd probably pack a handful of hose clamps with it so I could find, and clamp, some suitable bits of branch across the legs when I got where I was going. This would mean it could be as stable or compact as anyone could want it, depending on how long the lengths of branch they choose are.
good idea
You don't strap a stove made out of steel to a backpack for hiking unless you like pain. Make one out of soup cans for back packing or dig 2 holes side by side connect them on the bottom wack you got a natural rocket stove. No metal needed.
I made one from 5mm steel box 100mm square. It sold on Etsy for almost $400 and the owner is delighted with it, mind you it cost me over £90 to send it to the US from the UK!
To make them to last for years you have to make them from robust steel, I reckon anything under 3mm is asking for trouble after a few years of use. A friend of mine bought one of those made from 1mm plate and it got dented and even warped with the heat! This is why I made one from 5mm box as it will last a lifetime or several LOL
Have you thought of adding an ash catch that slides in-out from the front?
Yes I have. With the feedback I have had from clients, no one typically runs them long enough to produce large amounts of ash. Combustion is also almost 100% when the stove is running well. Most ash powder is so fine, it blows away.
Could you do a video showing how you built the last one. Would love to build one like it.
I'm flattered that you like.my design. However, sorry to disapoint.. But I'll probably never do a complete video on how I build my stoves. There's lots of rocket stove videos already, and the few tweaks I've put into my stoves are a trade secret :)
@@steelforestweldingandforge Ok, thanks !
This was a good, measured, response.
I always thought the looped legs were so you could stake it to the ground so a wagging tail or a kid's frisbee didnt topple it over....I expressly looked for a stove that made that possible with ease.....pretty sure preppers have stakes ....lots of em LOL.
I'm curious if you have any thoughts on that Giraffe Stove design ....looks like a lot of hinges..... sure takes up a lot of room. Pellet stoves are somthing I'm curious about as well.... the idea of a 5-7 hour hopper feed literally and figuratively gives me warm feelings. .....but the ash-out is my biggest concern .....a good ash removal system actually matters more to me as a sustainability and reliability engineer than heating 5min faster and 30deg hotter. But I'm old school, calories and hydration and layers keep me warm.....stoves are a luxury. I dont suppose people on the forum complained the draft height needed to be adjustable for different densities of air (both altitude and humidity) .....something you absolutely should NOT be nitpicking on other people's behalf. If folks want an aerospike stove that has quantum encryped WiFi, slices bread, and weighs less than a can of soup.....let them put in the R&D time and $$$$.😅
The giraffe style stove design is something I'd never seen before prior to you mentioning it. Typically, with rocket stoves, the larger the chimney or draft, the more powerful it is. So assuming this thing is fairly airtight, I'd imagine it would be quite powerful. I could see too how you could take advantage of putting pots further away from the heat source to have a slower and gentler heat. But I have no personal experience with this stove design. I am currently working on a pellet insert for my stoves. But i'm still prototyping. Thanks for watching.
cool-weld a sleeve on one leg at bottom on the side to slide a piece of rod or rebar through-maybe a couple of feet-would be removable and very hard to turn over-works for me
The stability is fine on concrete, but check the stability while out in the back 40. Soft or uneven ground may give you different results with your stability test. Wider leg profile would be preferred.
use angle iron or round legs that slide into a slot in each corner. they can be as long as your chimney and stored inside when not in use. they should have about a 45° (have to play around with that and see what's best) bend right where they attach to the stove to create a wider base. Adds almost no weight and will be way more stable and smaller footprint when stored.
hey, i had a question. i am looking into making my own stove and i was wondering if you can tell me how the "K" design works and is better than the "L" models. like in your eariler builds you were using an "L" model, why the "K" does it need to have a feeder tube and a large air intake tube. thanks for your time. -don
Good questions. The L models I made earlier were made from 2.5 inch tubing and was just to small. I recommend at least 3 inch tubing. L models give much more control with fuel consumption, but require much more fire maintenance. K models, it's basically dump and go. With any fire, the more air, the hotter it gets. But I have seen K models with a combo air and fuel hopper.
I'm sure someone else probably already suggested this & I know it's probably not considered an optimal solution, but since the stove you addressed high c.o.g. concerns is already a fairly beefy size (i.e. not designed with portability as a defining trait), why not simply weld some scrap plate steel to the underside as a counterweight-ballast for enhanced stability? In my mind I see that as an opportunity for dual satisfaction by: 1.) Having forum brats shut yaps (which can obviously benefit from a "publicist's makeover" in its phrasing if one cares) while concurrently & most importantly 2.) Not needing to go back to the drawing board in order to meddle with what's obviously some stellar design & workmanship you're offering.
That would be a solution for flat solid ground. It will also unfortunately increase production time, shipping costs, and material costs. Best solution I have seen offered is simple tent stakes. And thank you for the kind words as well :)
Maybe if the legs had a tab with a hole in it, an aluminum trnt peg could be used to hold it down more securely? Alternatively some cleats on the feet would allow the stove to be pushed into the ground?
3 point legs will set pretty secure on more diverse terrain.
Yeah you raise a good point. The only fall back though is unless there's some kind of head on the bottom they will sink into loose soil or dirt.
Hey great stoves, what kind of paint do you use. Only question you didn’t answer.
I use a high heat ceramic paint.Seems to hold up well. No complaints to date.
Just a wider leg base will help. You could also make fold the legs with a small nut and stop on the leg portion if the width is wider then you care for it to be
I would put additional bends in legs so as only the 4 corners touch. It would be more stable on un even surfaces.
great job,
thank you
Just an idea like that. You can add a water resorvoir around the chimney of your stove. So this way you can boil water.
I've actually seen people do this to make rocket stove water heaters.
So with your skills maybe you caan do something like that. It would be one more utse from the stoves you make. I would like to see the results.@@steelforestweldingandforge
I'm an amateur welder, it looked stable to me... Have you used any circular pipe ticket stoves? My first one was with 4.5" OD pipe....ugly as hell!
I'm not familiar with pipe ticket stoves.
So where can I get ordering and pricing info to buy you rocket stove
You can send me a message via Facebook messenger, Instagram, or Google maps.
For the Prepper community and you & me Just for your FYI> if I may suggest a small improvement in the building of the rocket stove FYI the top piece where the pans and utensils go on top. The area has is not wide enough, I cant tell how many time my nonstick pans have fallen off the stove. Most rocket stove users are having this problem. Now the solution is can you put a round bottom wok on it and cook Beef and Broccoli? If the top resting place for pans and be widened and it can cradle all woks and pans 23 inches or larger than you have a winner. I am sending you a link from TH-cam, i hope you will enjoy it. I hope you dont lose, any breakfast or lunch slipping off into the nest county. Best Regards
th-cam.com/video/nBKGW3Fumhc/w-d-xo.html
First off, thx for watching. Second, I never turn down constructive criticism offered in a positive way, which you did. I have very recently altered the design to the grate of my stoves. A video of the new design is available in my profile. The reason I had for the older the design was for portability, manufacturing, and shipping costs. These stoves take more than 5 hours to make, so they are not very profitable from a welder/fabricator perspective. And the cost for these is highly competitive. Any additional fabrication would require me to increase product and shipping costs . If someone asked me to specifically make a ring shaped top I absolutely would. For an additional cost. You are correct about a ring on top for a wok. These, however, are designed to be used more with a cast iron skillet.
Did you check the VireStove from Israel? It seems sturdy and portable.
I would love to make one but don't have welder.
You said you have to really give it a push for it to go over. What if you had two rods in upside down "V" free to move when tilted to prevent a total tip over of the stove itself. Just asking. Not an engineer.
I have seen people make these out of threaded piping. Maybe you can go that route. I do sell these if you are interested. I don't mind constructive criticism at all. If I'm invisioning your upside down v idea correctly, the main issue would be the legs sinking into soft earth. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video. I need one that has a large coal dump. I want to be able to use the coals to fire my smoker. Any suggestions on how to build it?
The simpler you can make your design the better. You'll definitely need to put a screen in between the fuel and the bottom of the stove so the ash and small coals can fall through. Make sure the holes aren't too big or otherwise the coals won't pile up to create heat and you'll have a weak fire. Easiest design would probably be a small door with a built in tray, either on the back of the stove or the side.
Thanks
@@steelforestweldingandforge a simple stovepipe rocked stove I describe in the comments produces lots of charcoal because the fire burns so fast it gets past unburned wood then there is no oxygen left and the unburnt wood turns into charcoal . If I want to I can extend my burn by a lot after all the wood is done by burning the charcoal witch will now burn because the charcoal now gets oxygen but if you want to save it you can.
@@steelforestweldingandforgeI tested this and it does not work well if you fully load the burn chamber lightly with air spaces in between I e natural round sticks I get the best burn but all rocket stoves are not the same so it may work great in yours.
Rất nhiều mẫu bếp củi đẹp
I think you should design one for us preppers. Like make one thats pack friendly man. This thing would send ya right to the bottom of tbe lake its so big. I want to live to get to other side of lake to use your rocket stove to save my life and make some freeze dried stew. Thats just my opinion. Its usually pretty opiinionated so dont let me rain on your fire. I think it's hot beans.
This is actually something I have given some serious thought to. An ultra light collapsible stove. But I just don't have the equipment to build them atm. But yes, my stoves are designed for permanent and semi-permanent camping. I wouldn't recommend backpacking with one of these.
@@steelforestweldingandforge i think your a good person with a good product. Its good to see people wanting to win over there customers without bad mouthing everyone who has diffrent opinion then them.. i look forward to seeing your rocket on the go stove in future. Stay free, stay prepped and stay busy.
Thanks for the kind words!
HTD should be 1:3 for average stability. I.E. 30” high stove would require a 10” wide base. Obviously this totally depends on your application and your intended level of risk mitigation.
Good to know. The reason these are designed the way they are is for transportation and easy fabrication. A larger base adds a lot more to shipping costs, and makes it more difficult to transport in the field.
I mostly would like to know how well a rocket stove will work piped in a canvas tent.
@@knowGodbyandby There are rocket stoves designed for heating. There is usually some kind of coil or angled piping to allow the heat to diffuse out before the exhaust clears the tent. But like any stove inside attempt you have to be very careful. Carbon monoxide poisoning is always a possibility
But who wants to stand there and feed it for hours... not me... make a gravity pellet grate with hopper... runs unattended until the hopper runs empty... geez!
Lots and lots and lots of people. I sell several of these stoves every month. Most people don't typically head into woods with pellets.
@@steelforestweldingandforge Your choice... its for sure you put the stove in the car trunk... so why not a bad of pellets too... about 36 hours of fuel sure is handy. Enjoy!
Metal fabricator of 23 years and journeyman sheet metal worker in the union have industry here. I can say this about "draft": the smoother the tube is that the air moves through the higher velocity it can pick up. So the "L" shape main tube would draft alot better with a "turn vane" or something in the bottom. Regardless of the other aspects of the stove design, two 45* angles on the bottom elbow will draft better than 1, 90* corner I promise.
Yes right on you got it
How about adding an option of short (2"-3") rebar legs straight down off the 4 ends of each end of the two rebar stands.
If the unit is intended for use outside the user could step into the loop of the leg and drive it into the dirt.
It could still be used on a hard surface. OK derp, I just read the comment below.
Ah well...
Now it is the comment above. Not sure how that works.
Why not just Tent Stake it, when you can? Looks like you could also wedge some rocks in the leg holes as well. I like it.
What is the cost for a deluxe model? How can I purchase one?
You can PM me directly via messenger through my FB buisness page. Follow the link in the description.
You can also modify your stoves to become a ooni type pizza oven surely..?
I've given it some serious thought before. It would require a lot of prototyping.
Good looking stoves how good the work i have to see a couple burns to decide. The rocking is unacceptable for a stove that produces pans of boiling water and much heat and smoke I know. "my stove is smokeless !!! Knock it over or restrict the air too much and wach it smoke like a coal locomotive!!! .Widen the legs about 4 inches you can make them slide out for transport.and tap the ends for a bolt with a flat metal plate on the bottom for extremely easy leveling in all unlevel situations. I see suggestions for spikes on the bottom to drive into the ground, wont work what if you are on large uneaven rocks or concrete, Or tailgate? .Another for flat washers to drive a tentstake trough the hole into the ground , wont work if on uneaven rocks, concrete or a tailgate. One guy said longer rebars flat on the bottom.better stability yes, Only good for perfect level ground . Shims suck on any situation. Another said 3 legs, no good more prone to tipping, only good on level ground. I have made at least 15 different rocket stove trying to find the best. all i can tell you is there is no perfect ones the all have qwirks. None heat stuff faster then a camp fire, its wood flames about the same temperature. Rocketstove smaller then campfire so less heat. 😢. Most important to me is not having to do a lot of work to make one and not having to fuss with the fire, lots of rocket stoves burn uneaven and you have to often adjust the wood to sustain good burn. You are going to laugh the best portable rocket stove i found is also the easiest to make. A 20 inch long 4 or 5 or 6 inch 5 inch best diameter section of stainless steel round stovepipe for the horizontal bottom combo wood and air pipe. One ss ellbow. One ss pipe between 10 inches or however tall you want it for chimmney, make the legs out of whatever you dream up. You can simply set this stove on the ground without any kind of legs and bury the bottom in sand or gravel to stabilize it and presto your done for just heat you are done, for cooking make a thingamajig for the top to hold a pot and let the heat and smoke out.
No welding all you need is to cut the pipe , can make thingamajig and legs with bolts and nuts and a drill and hacksaw. This pulls appart or assembles in seconds. does not have to be stainless. Warning the first fire make it hot and stay out of the toxic smoke if using galvanized pipe until galvanizing burns off, hot fire or put in campfire burns it of fast. 😊 4 inch woodmiser, 5 inch medium, 6 inch roaring beast. Round wood best needs airspaces between wood for good low smoke burns. When using chopped wood chop wood into different shapes, triangles, flat, sqare, rectangles, round, and whatever. So as to create air spaces for good clean burn if overloaded all rocketstoves smoke like hell. If want to u can feed 8 foot long sticks shove in when burned up. Reverse fire, the most smokeless, fill stove with wood drop burning paper and twigs down chimney fire will burn mostly smokeless toward front. you should not use wet wood. For longer burn also fill chimmney with wood light the top nice long fire that you can cook almost anything whitout having to adjust or even touch the wood to keep fire going youll get a complete burn at least an hour never taking hands out of pockets. I was homeless for 8 years during that i cooked thousnds of meals on rocket stoves i made. I don't care about looks at all but i hate messing with the fire and i can tell you most rocket stoves burn up the available wood so fast in a small burn chamber, you have to feed it and fuss with it, my stovepipe rocketstoves burn chamber is from one end all the way to the other end if loaded correctly its the most steady fire i have seen. For cooking scrambled eggs and bacon i only load the 10 inch vertical pipe and upper half of the ellbow that's more then enough wood for that. Look there are drawbacks to anything you can only fill this
Stove 2 times then the ash gets too much and has to be emptied but thats after a couple of hrs or more of hot fire. For a simple no legs very good rocketstove you could build in a hr or less this is simply the best. I think. This is not as nice looking as this channels owners nor will it last as long being made out of simple stovepipe because of the heat it eats the metal fast supcan rocket stoves last about 7 to 12 good burns. Iron stovepipe mabe 150_200 burns. Stainless steel 500 or more or less depends on quality of ss. I like ss becausr of not rusting aleays clean. This channels stoves are made of thicker steel materials so the will last much longer. I have only made stoves for my personal use and do not sell any. The reason i posted this long is because i really like how nice this guys stoves look and i respect and know how much work he puts into these stoves before the can be sold.
How about an inner tube with holes at the top for burning the super to heated wood gas
Sorry, I'm a little confused by what you're asking. but I'm also very intrigued could you explain a little further please.
just bought one 75 clams, looks like yours. just to experiment with
Nothing beats fried eggs and bacon early in the morning outside on one of these guys
Like the legs can pin down with pegs if on dirt
very nice but need something to have for air flow.
@stevencraig9090 I don't mind honest criticism. Could you elaborate though?
First time seeing this video. Great job ! How would one purchase one of these bad boys?
You can follow the link to my Facebook business page in the video description, and send me a direct message that I will personally answer.
I've been thinking of ways to build a pool/spa rocket stove heater, any suggestions on maximizing the heat transfer without most of it going up the stack?
Good question
My fist though would be some kind of coiled exhaust system that would wind around some kind of circulating water.
I'd design a better base that is larger and more stable. Maybe make it removable so you could just slide in into place. Your base is not always concrete and hard so you will want the stove to be good and solid, not easy to tip over like these. Or maybe carry a steel plate to set the stove on?!
Thanks
👍
Make your stand round the base
Nice stoves.
Thank you! They are for sale if you are interested.
Have you thought of making your legs to be able to take a 2x4 insert to increase stability. You wouldnt have to provide the lumber but just a little planning to accommodate the complainers
@@AnthonyPortilla-tz3ji Interesting idea. I would still just recommend using tent stakes.
Is it possible to build a space rocket so i can leave my country ?
anything is possible! But likely........
Yes you can but you have to be spaced out.
How does it work? Came here to see different ones work. Do you have a company you sell from?
As a matter of fact I do sell these stoves. You can follow the link in the description to my Facebook business page and send me a message if you're interested in purchasing one.
@@steelforestweldingandforge Oh! Ok sweet, thanks man :)
@@steelforestweldingandforge I just tried finding you on Etsy but don’t see ya
@@RockieRoadz I decided not to make an Etsy account. Between the fees for venmo and PayPal, the fees on Facebook Stores, and the fees for Etsy it just doesn't make that make it profitable. So instead I opted to sell directly to people.
@@steelforestweldingandforge Ah that makes sense. I’ll send you a message on FB. I know metal prices fluctuate so I don’t expect a long-term quote due to the current economy rushing into communsm
Your compact micro stove looks really cool & the size of it thats what I've been looking for I'm from Los Angeles California it's hard to find those out here cool video.✌
thank you
Dude, take the training wheels off the bike. It's time to grow up man.
Keep up the good work. Keep working hard. Love the design.
I seriously had to re read this 3 or 4 times before I got the joke. Thank you.
Мне нравятся твои изделия, дружище.
Одна беда - не понимаю о чём ты говоришь ))).
is the purpose of the door on the wood hopper to starve that tube of oxygen?
have you played around with the length of the air intake tube at all? why not just have an opening on the side wall instead of the tube?
The lid on the feeding tube helps slow down fuel consumption. As rule of thumb you always want your chimney to be much larger than your feeding tube so that your feeding tube does not become a competing chimney. The reason I don't have an opening in the tube is to make sure to keep the fire contained inside the stove. Having this system also causes the venturi effect.
@@steelforestweldingandforge thank you for your answer. the competing chimney problem makes sense.
im not sure we understand each other about the opening in the tube. i was suggesting having a much shorter air intake tube, or a simple opening at the bottom there instead of a tube at all.
No I understood you, I've seen other people build stoves with an opening at the bottom with a slight angle. The reason I built the way I do is to make sure I cause the venturi effect. Check out what it is when you got a minute. And hey no problem for answering that's what this channel is all about.
@@steelforestweldingandforge what part of the venturi effect are you trying to take advantage of, the velocity increase?
yes
Tent pegs to tie it to the ground
People will always criticize something that they cannot do
@@coyotemoon7951 Very true. But I've been fortunate in that 99% of the criticism I received I genuine and polite.
Three legs a better than two or for
Why not just make the legs wider by another 50% and it won't rock at all?
Fair question. Mostly material costs and shipping. Taking a box from a 8 inch height to a 12 inch height will dramatically increase shipping prices. Likely to a point where demand for them will decrease. So far, I haven't heard a single complaint from any of my clients about the stove being unstable.
standard sauna stove with rocks, water heater, wood-oil-biomass, but with additional thermo-couple electric generator and one piece reaction impeller roof-top wind vawt turbine
tent stove with loong pipe
foldable-self-put-together quick-pipe pieces box
try the finnish tent stoves
its just a box, door, air, legs and pipe sections as the exhaust, if you even bump into that, it will fall over
robust, wide legs, even buried on ground, to prevent rocking
Protomax water jet could cut that sheet metal for ya
Yes, eventually I want to get a small cnc plasma table. Profit margins are already small on these, so unfortunately outsourcing parts isn't an option.
4 legs ALWAYS wiggle. 3 legs NEVER wiggle. can someone please incorporate that concept on a rocket stove ffs?
By all means go ahead and build one and post a video. I would be interested to see the results and weigh the pros and cons.
@@steelforestweldingandforge i don't do video and i am not a welder either - but i use stuff in the field a lot. if the surface is uneven, 3 legs are solid, 4 legs and things get tippy. try it out and see for yourself.
@@limodrivermike I've experimented with many different kinds of stoves and leg designs. Fabricating a tripod takes much more time and drives up costs for material. Fabrication for my design is minimal and effective.
@@steelforestweldingandforge if you say so
@@limodrivermike I do
What a joke every one is making these simple stoves that you have to weld, can't you build something that's solid and you can take apart for easy carrying? Would like to see something especially for people who don't have the means to use a welder, asking for my friends.🙂
I'm not really sure the joke is, but OK. Could I design and built a collapsible stove? Probably. Do I have 3-D programming software? No. Do I have access to precision cutting cnc equipment? No. Do I have access to large heavy duty fabrication equipment? No. Do I have the time it takes to invest in, design, prototype, test, and build a new collapsible stove? No. Do I have the finances to invest in multiple different sizes of steels and steel sheets for a product that may or may not sell? No. What you're asking for is no small feat. Most of these stoves are are designed to be simple for this very reason.. Unfortunately a collapsible and sturdy product is a difficult product to deliver. So could I? Probably. Will I? Not in the foreseeable future. But who knows.
Wasn't saying yours was a joke just some in general are not made stable on uneven ground so like the guy was saying putting a tube on the bottom where you can put a stick or branch through would help in that case?
@@larryscarry411 Sorry, Social media is not the best form of communication and sometimes it's hard to understand what people mean. I think the best and simplest recommendation I've seen is using metal tent stakes.
I dont understand after making all those stoves you haven't come up with one that works much better then when you started ,I am a roofer tinner and I could make a rocket stove 2 times better then what I see here.
show me
@@steelforestweldingandforge ok,look up slicksfabworks and also chiasson smoke they both make admirable stoves that i have built mine very similar to theirs,with the ashtray ,damper and fuel shoot door and also 3 times bigger then your stoves
flame goes sideways!!!!
im going to subsribe i need to learn some welding. i see you don't know anything about rocket stoves :) LOL LOL LOL sorry i thought that was funny
Looking forward to helping out
these are not rocket stoves
Most of yoour design decisions look like are based on making it easier and cheaper to make, NOT based on making the stove work better.
In my opinion you make a mediocre stove with good profitability
What designs exactly are making the stove less efficient? And on what evidence are you claiming my stoves are mediocre. Also, what are the standards would you use to judge a stove to be high quality?
@@steelforestweldingandforge hi. First, please let me apologise, I typed my comment in a hurry and when I read it back now it does sound very rude and that was not my intention I am just a very blunt person.
I've worked as a professional designer for almost 3 decades now. I'll give you my thoughts on your stove and how it could be functionally improved.
The top grille area that holds the skillet etc is terrible. Any large skillet or heavy cookpot would be very unstable because your 4 support posts are too narrow.
There is not enough height from the tube top to the skillet bottom, restricting airflow which restricts clean burn and reduces the rocket effect. For a 4 inch square pipe that has 16 sq inches of airflow, so you need more than 16 sq inches of air allowed out the top under the skillet because air changing direction also effectively reduces airflow. I would recommend getting the skillet at least 3 inches above the pipe top, 4 inches may be better.
Your 4 top posts have other problems. You cannot put a coffee mug on it. The top grille area should be able to hold any item, large or small like a big skillet, a small mug, a medium sized coffee pot. A potato wrapped in foil etc.
You cant grill on your stove. The very best steak flavour comes from flame grilled cooking. So the steak should be supported on a wire grille and flames actually sear the bottom of the steak and the juices etc. With many stoves you can just sit a wire grille on top on the stove but not with yours because of those tiny top posts.
A superior stove top would habve a permanent wire type grille, mounted 4 inches above the pipetop and the grill big enough for 2 steaks, so approx 10x10 inches. Grille made of maybe 3/16 stainless wire with 1 inch spacing between each grill wire. That would be far superior to your 4 small posts for grilling steaks, kebabs or sausages direct, AND provides excellent support for large skillets, cookpots, or even small items like a metsl coffee mug.
Hence my "rude" comment, that stove top would be harder to make and more expensive than your current setup, less profitable BUT far superior in function.
Now those legs... ouch. They are cheap and quick to make. From a user standpoint your legs are lighter for carrying and smallish for car transport. In my opinion those are small gains for the user but bad functionality as legs. They are narrow and rounded corners, giving very poor stability on grass. Considering a rocket stove might have a big cookpot with 8 pints of soup etc on it your legs are very poor. They should have large flat feet like 2 inch flat steel 1/8 thick and overall width about 3/4 the height of the stove, so width needs to be 15 inches minimum. I think your height above the ground is about right, gets the stove above the wet grass. But the feet need to be much wider and bigger surface area so not to sink into soft ground etc. The rear foot under the vert pipe needs to be mounted more rearward to give better stability with heavy cookpot.
Having a good top grille, and good feet, would vastly improve the functionality of your stove.
I would,also include some type of carry handle, not just for carrying but can be used to shake the stove to stoke it, or to reposition it as the wind direction changes. Another improvment.
Finally, some small flat "anvil" type plate like a piece of 4x4 inch checker plate 1/4 thick, could be welded in the valley between the vert tube and the diagonal feed tube. That could be used with a little cleaver to split small wood pieces, taking advantage of the grip offered by the checker plate. It woukd also be a very useful hot plate at a lower temperature. For baked potatoes or a coffee mug etc.
Anyway you can use my suggestions or discard them and argue. You can make a better stove at a higher construction cost, or keep making a mediocre stove at a lower construction cost. Doesnt matter to me either way. Cheers. 🙂
I appreciate the apology, the internet is a terrible way to communicate. I would like to apologize as well. I made some assumptions on what you were trying to say.
Some of your criticisms are fair. I have changed the design of my stoves slightly and made the surface area of the top much larger.
For some of your other points, these stoves are designed to be small, portable, and shipped in the mail. They serve 1-2 ppl max. A grill would be nice yes, but you're looking at hours of additional fabrication time. Plus, additional maintenance on.the customers end. These stoves average on five hours of build time per stove. Profitability wise, they are in reality VERY low. Welders, on average, charge 100-150$ per hour fabrication time. But ppl won't buy a stove that is expensive, unfortunately. No matter how sturdy it's built.
As far as a carrying handle or a warming plate goes. Yes, they would be nice, but the additional build time just doesn't justify the additions, in my opinion.
What I think you would be looking for would be a stove made with 4.5-5 inch tubing. Twice the size of mine. With a permanent grill top, carrying handle, large removable legs, and a warming plate. You are looking in the range of several hundreds of dollars, plus additional hundreds of dollars in shipping costs. Once packages are over 24 inches I believe they are considered freight. And the shipping costs begin to increase exponentially.
Now, a major corporation with large machines would be able to provide something like that, but I'm just one man in a garage. It's just not a realistic option unfortunately.
So far the only complaint I have heard from my customers what the stoves top area. Hence, the modification I mentioned earlier. And are happy with what they are receiving thankfully.
Again I appreciate the apology, and I apologize again. I continue to welcome construction criticism.
Regarding tipping, make the back leg a horizontal tube and include a piece of round stock with it to slide into that tube. Make it about a foot long. You can store it in the vertical chimney. Can be aluminum tubing even to lighten it.
What price is your latest model.
Design idea: Maybe use (square) tubes as legs. That way you can widen the stance with whatever you find on your location. Anything you find that fits in the tubes..
Great content btw, I'm subscribing.
Glad to have you and thank you. Tubing unfortunately is very expensive when compared to solid stock. I try to keep the cost of the stoves as low as possible. Adding tubing for legs would increase labor and material cost time.
@@steelforestweldingandforge Makes sense. And like you demonstrated in the vid, it's pretty sturdy as it is👌
10 rocket stoves and an Eden Pure, just caught me as ironic, lol. Built my first and last out 4x4 1/8", works great no doors and shelf brackets for legs. Not perfect, heats water and they're just fun to mess with, keep up the good work and don't worry about haters, they'll always hate.
I'd like to see if you can build a pizza oven like the new ooni type of portable ovens that could be slipped into the top of rocket
I like your design but it's hard to learn from praise. I would suggest anyone that thinks that stove will tip over to use tent stakes over the legs, then quit drinking they may be the ones tipping over. :)
Criticism is never gonna stop. You can't please the whole world. Plus some of it comes from competition. Someone just trying to have you chase your tail so to speak. Build your product. If sales are good. Then run with what you have. I myself am here to see how these are made. I'm looking into it as a business as well. But, I have nothing good or bad to say about your designs. I see room to improve on it. And I'll keep it to myself.
Honestly criticism neither positive or negative bothers me. When you're in the welding world your work is criticized on a daily basis. But you're right though, if you have a good product people will buy it.
Oh and if you have any stove questions by all means please ask
The only thing I would change is make the pan or skillet base bigger
That criticism has come up before with clients and other people and it's a valuable criticism. From my experimentation and from customer feedback it's hasn't been a problem. That is, as long as appropriately sized pots and skillets are used. If someone were to try and use a 15in skillet for example, yes the stand-offs would be to small. But also, this size stove isn't designed for cooking utensils that large. So far there haven't been any customer complaints. Thanks for the feedback!
How about trying a single round leg,diameter equal to distance between the legs of the model you knocked over,same material that the current legs are made from,welded with struts of the same to the base in at least 4 spots... this should prevent most tip-overs..???
Ok, took me a minute to understand what you were describing but I got it. One advantage to the leg style I have is they work fairly well on uneven ground and they are fairly quick and easy to fabricate.
I Love Rocket Stove !
With love from Ukraine to USA !
@@ВасилийВасиленко-ч9г Thank you for watching!
I’d like to purchase one of your stoves!
You can me message me on Facebook messenger. Link to my FB page is in the video description.
Take a good look at what you're doing in this video while talking to us!!!!
All those chimneys are too short!!!
Make on three feet tall with no more than a 3" in diameter chimney with a larger area 18" in diameter 4" high coneing from there to the 3" diameter chimney at a 45° angle.
Then have a refueling door that slides sideways in the cone so one could simply drop more wood or coal in!!!
And in the 4" high 18"diameter have 1&1/2" holes maby every 2" in the sides that can be opened and shut with a larger diameter closely fitted outside the 18" diameter for adjustment of air flow all of which can be opened flat even the chimney which is rolled and hooked by opposite direction hooks the length of it.
Talk to me on my channel if intrigued!!!