We have been using SeaDoo skis for forever and our biggest complaint was threading the hose every time (we live in salt water so we flush every time). Those quick connects look like a lifesaver! We just purchased our 21' SeaDoo Switch - our first boat ever. I'm hoping that our knowledge of PWCs will help us learn this boat quickly.
This guy Will, is All about Profit, he doesn't show you Everything. Especially the flex tether nylon adapter for your Drain plugs. Very very important, so you don't lose your Drain plugs
So much easier listening to you explain it than reading about it. Thanks Will, you should work for Seadoo. You're much more knowledgeable and informative than the dealer. Thanks.
If I can add something for easy flushing and so you don't need to run to shut off the water each time to the value on your building, put Garden Hose Shut Off Valve between the end of the house and your quick disconnect. So you can shut off water by your quick disconnect instead of at the building.
Great video. I want to put RV antifreeze in my boat for winter storage. I live on a fresh water lake so don't need to do the salt water flush. I assume I simply drain the the current water via the exhaust port on the left and then pump antifreeze thru the system till i see it coming out the exhaust port? What about the pontoon rinse thing? Do i need to get that water out or does it all automatically drain out?
You can add the anti freeze but to be honest if you leave the drain plug out and do a good job blowing the water out with compressed air you don't need to do that step. I don't know if I've seen anyone use antifreeze on an exhaust system, at least not on a switch so I don't have good intel on if that's a problem or not. I would not if it were me.
Any chance we can get a video on how to winterize with antifreeze/flushing? BRP said that if the sea-doo dealers recommend it (which ours do) we should do it, especially up north.
there has been a stop sale immediate corrective action put out on all unregistered switches to do a exhaust cooling mod because they have found that the catalyst overheats and burns a hole in the cat, sadly the amazing brp company has said any registered "sold" units are not covered until this problem happens, then they want to replace the cat and do the upgrade, so any switch owners be aware you could own a switch that could fail, then you got to take it to the dealership, then you have to wait for parts, and knowing brp's part shortages you could possibly be waiting a while most likely loose a season.
I like your videos. You recommended leaving the quick connect hose adapter in the flush port. Any concern leaving it in will reduce water flow to the exhaust during operation? The opening in the quick connect is smaller.
Water is not flowing through the flush port until a pressurized hose is connected to it. It has a check valve in the line so water can't back flow out of the inlet.
I’m wondering if I need to add antifreeze just like when I winterize my Yamaha jetski. Sounds like the steps on your video just works. I live in the east coast and we get snow during winter. Thanks
Its ok. Sometimes it will drain that way if the boat is sitting at an angle. Alot of times mine has drained more noticeably at the back but also trickled some at many other joints in the toons.
@@JetBoatPilot OK thanks! I did raise the Switch up at the front and water dribbled out in other places around it. Odd as I would think that it would have made it drain out more towards the back, but in any case it worked!
Whenever we winterize our seadoo cruise, what do we need to do to start using the seadoo again? Do we need to flush the exhaust prior to use. We want to use our boat during the winter as well. Thanks great video
No on the antifreeze part. The engine is closed loop and has a coolant inside that will not freeze. The exhaust can be fully evacuated by using the Blowout adapter and compressed air. We have them on our website. You should treat the gas with Stabil or similar and fogging the engine is a good idea if the boat will be stored for more than 90 days.
I did it last year don't think it hurts to add that extra piece of mind. Up north it gets really cold I didn't wanna risk not doing it. I just added almost a gallon of rv/marine antifreeze into the line I used to blow out with air and just push it through with low pressure until it started coming out the exhaust side.
Any thoughts on flushing this from a boat lift? We live on the lagoon, and want to keep ours on the lift all year. But if we pull bow in, we can’t access the flush connection from the dock. If we pulled stern in, we wouldn’t have a boarding point. Thoughts?
On the second step where the cooling system is flush, do you turn the water on from the garden hose on the inlet at the starboard side? Thank you for your video, Additional question, for Canadian residents, do we pump in antifreeze for winter storage?
Don't worry about anti freeze. Just blow out excess water with our Blowout adapter. The cooling system flush is the same as the standard flush procedure. We just pull the plug to let any trash or sediment get out of the system. Make sure to reinstall the plug or you could fry your exhaust system.
Love your video, But I have a couple of questions. 1) what is the correct tire PSI for the Sea-Doo switch trailer? 2) If my Sea-Doo switch veers to the right all the time, How should I adjust it? Thank you.
I believe its 45 psi on the trailer tires. I don't have one here at the moment to check but your sidewalls on your tires should tell you the max PSI. Also if you feel like the steering is pulling too hard to the right you can lengthen the steering cable a bit which will give a bit more left nozzle deflection while the handlebars are in the neutral position. Don't do too much of this though as it could limit your steering to the right.
Excellent video, thank you. However, at the end you mention "You also have a little drain here. This is for water that gets inside the deck and then rolls out, gets outside the boat this way...." I'm not sure that is accurate. My shop said that is where the bilge pump connects. If you turn on the bilge pump, and there is water in the bilge, it will come out of that hole. I've noticed that when anchored and swimming with a couple of adults standing on the back of the boat, that hole will drop below the water line.
There is a bilge discharge back there. There's also a water bailing system. I'll look again and sww where those lines go. I could have made a mistake. Thanks foe bringing this to my attention.
Interesting that BRP seems to be sending these two decals out now. I received mine last week and they are for the right flush port and the left, which is normally capped.
Question (maybe answered already but scrolled a bit and got impatient 🤷🏼♂️😌): same flushing/ blowing procedure on the toons as the exhaust? (Without the engine of course) We’re in MN where it freezes pretty hard in the winter.
Will, thank you and your team for another great video! I didnt hear you mention anything about flushing with Salt Away? Is that step not needed on these boats? I'm coming from a Yamaha 242 and I religiously do that when returning to the marina for the night. Also, would it be beneficial to use salt away in the pontoon flush? Thanks again!
Great video, wondering if I could do the winterizing with antifreeze like I do my PWC I’ve never done air but always antifreeze until it comes out, I get the -30C or lower where I am.
Your videos are awesome! I'm in Canada and bought a Switch in July. Just starting to think about winterizing. Should I put antifreeze in as well as air compress all the water out or am I fine to just blow it out?
HI Jef. I guess that may be your name. I loved your in-depth videos and I hate admit that I binge watched them last night at past midnight. Only question I have is, my compact does not have the port on the left side that you open after running water through the port on the right side. Mine only has the 2 drain plugs at the bottom and one threaded exhaust port on the right and a non threaded port top left and a threaded hull port on the right top. Wonder if the configuration is different for the compact. Thanks and keep up the good work. Don’t change a single thing.
Great video. I had a challenger prior and should be getting my switch soon. I have a question about your quick connect hose adapter, is it safe to leave that in? Such as it isn't reducing the amount of water getting in? Also, I'm sure I'll read this when I get my manual, but does the flush port for the exhaust stay open or closed when in use? Thanks!
Thank you for this. After idling for 90 seconds, you turn off the water and then hit the throttle. In addition to turning off the water, do you have to disconnect the hose before hitting the throttle or can you leave the hose in place until you're done with the second part of the flush?
I believe it's called the exhaust plug but it is the one on the other side of where the hose attaches. It is kept plugged and in part two of the flushing procedure you are supposed to open it and run the hose & engine again. In videos water typically spills out when the plug is opened.
I’m going to be putting mine on a lift beside my dock. That drain is terribly placed. Hard to get there. Any suggestions? I would need a raft in the water to get to it.
Watch our video featuring the blowout adapter that we sell. It will help you to remove water from the system and prevent freeze damage. This step is helpful but that video speaks more to the blow out procedure.
Any info on how much water flow is enough? The quick connects I’ve been finding have only a small hole in them for water to flow through. Even the Salt Away mixer has a fairly small port. It would be helpful if there was a GPM number we should be trying to hit.
If I want to keep my Switch on a boat lift, it's impossible to reach down to the flush port from above to connect a hose. Is there any way to redirect the flush port or access it from the engine compartment while on the boat?
It is possible but there are several potential fail points that could cause damage to your boat if you make a mistake during the flush. We did it on our last Switch and it worked well but we ultimately did not recommend the conversion to others due to some really complicated issues that arose during the use of the conversion. In short you can do it but its possible that you will damage your boat's engine if you do it wrong.
Will, exceptional video! You now own an 18 and a 21 foot switch. Do you have a favorite? Which do you prefer best the 18 170 or 21 230? I just purchased the 21 cruise 230 and am wondering your thoughts?
@@JetBoatPilot sea Doo switch 18 foot vs 21 foot video going over the differences, what you like better between the 170 or 230 etc. that video would go viral.
hey how are you, I have the same you have a 2023 18 inc 170 cruise, have a question do you know any way that I can make faster, the 170 is a little bit hard to get some speed on the water
@AnddyMore that's a tough one. Not sure if there's an ecu flash yet. You may want to check with Riva Motorsports. Also possibly an impeller that is pitched for more high speed. But be aware you're not likely to gain more than a few mph.
When you say floor panels, are you referring to the tiles beneath the rubber mats? If so they come off by removing the corner access tabs and then removing the screws. Pretty simple actually.
I don’t know much about air pressure 55 psi. Do air pressure tanks have a way to gauge that or is it a compressor that specifically says 55 psi. I found one at harbor freight starts at 110 psi. So not sure why you said 55
55psi is the max that the flush system can handle without damaging the system. You have to have a regulator to dial down your compressor. They're not expensive.
Sure, and thank you getting back so fast. So on the engine water flush - you had installed 1/2 quick connect and the other half to the hose. However when using the pneumatic hose - you had removed the quick connect - ad screwed in the air connect. So my thought would be - would it be easier just to have a quick connect on the airhose to the boat -
@@grein46087 we have an adapter that has an air hose quick disconnect on our website. Is that what you mean? I am not sure I could do both water an air through the same line if that's what you're saying.
@@JetBoatPilot Ok not running water and air on the same line. On the boat, there is one half of quick connect, and you had the other on the water hose. I am good there. So when demonstrating the air purge, You had removed the quick connect to screw in your airline. What I am asking is, would it be a easier to also attach a quick connect to the air hose - so there is not any unscrewing the adapter, screw in the air hose [do the air blowout], unscrew air hose and re-screw in the quick connect adapter.
@@JetBoatPilot I am not arguing with you but I am wondering about the hardware in that location There appears to be quite a bit of fastners and stuff and it looked like it was perhaps in need of anti corrisive spray since water will be in and out of those compartments. Just wondering. I am referring to 9.00 time stamp on the video.
Any clue where I can buy one? Been to several dealers and none of them have those or any FXs and say yahama/seadoo is having trouble getting these machines out.
I just noticed that I don't have a screw in drain plug cap at the back on the upper right side (ladder side) for the cooling system. This isn't the one up further for flushing the pontoons. Isn't there supposed to be a plug there?
@@JetBoatPilot So it looks like I am missing one of the four cap plugs at the bottom. The two on the left side are there, but the top right one is missing. I presume that I can't launch the Switch until I get a replacement cap, correct? Can I send you a picture to make sure we are looking at the same thing?
@@JetBoatPilot I've watched it a couple of times now and it looks like you don't have one in the port where you put the garden hose attachment. is a plug not supposed to go back in there after you take out the hose attachment? Thanks so much for your videos and answers!!
I went to the Sacramento boat show this past weekend and a person selling the current model said the advantage of the jet drive is that if the engine needed repair, he could fix anything in 40 minutes. Would you agree with that? It seems like an exaggeration.
@@JetBoatPilot thank you. He stated that if the engine came into his shop, no matter what the problem he could have it fixed and out in 40 minutes. I am 63 years old and I’ve never had a jet boat but I knew that statement had to be an exaggeration. Thank you for your videos and your knowledge.
My question is about the motor flush port,when I go boating and I’m done and I pull it out of the water and I undo the bottom drains,do I do the motor flush too? I have only had mine out 3 times before winter and I always drained it when I pulled up the ramp, is this correct or no?
The motor is closed loop so it does not need to be flushed. The exhaust however is open loop and does need to be flushed. The lower right side port shown in the video is the flush port and should be used as shown in this video. The other ports are either flush for the pontoons or drains for the system during winterization. Do not remove the lower left port cap unless you're draining the system for winter storage. You must reinsert that cap prior to flushing the engine or you could damage your exhaust system.
@@JetBoatPilot yes I meant the exhaust, not motor. Should I or should I not drain it every time I take it out of the water is what I’m asking. Or trying to ask. I’m new to any boat
@davidwood1429 the boat has drains nearer to the jet pump (just to the inboard of the trim tabs in our video) and yes it's a good idea to open those drains after every use and reinstall as soon as they're done draining fully. Also jack up the trailers tongue jack fully for max drainage.
@davidwood1429 don't open it unless you're winterizing the boat. It's not necessary to drain after every use. It won't hurt if you drain it but my concern is that you don't put it back in and it causes damage. Since it's not critical to do it after each use, I suggest only take it out when you winterize.
@@JetBoatPilot i just followed these steps for winterizing and thanks for the vid.....question, is there anything i need to do with the drain plugs at the bottom left and right of the jet? i havent seen that i do and they are pretty well screwed in anyway.
These videos are super helpful. You said you use the boat in salt water in a previous video. Do you leave your boat in the water, tied to the dock most of the time or do you put it on your trailer after every use to flush things out?
You're supposed to. Just don't do it f9r more than 1 minute on a hot engine or 2 on a cold engine. Never run water through the flush port with the engine off.
Do not, I repeat: do NOT unhook your boat from the trailer until you are at/in the water! Otherwise you might be trying to figure out how to get your boat off the ramp and back on the trailer.
So let me get this right, you want us to pay alot more money for this craft, and then they made it striped so you must buy all accessories and to top it off instead of just flushing an outboard motor at the end of the day boating ,you must flush the motor then the pontoons that also flushes the deck . Man I'm tired
Nope the boat comes available in many trim levels. Accessories are optional for those who would like them. The flush is not necessary for the engine since its closed loop and uses actual automotive style coolant. The exhaust flush is necessary after use in salt water. In fresh water not really necessary as often. The pontoon flush is needed a couple times per year depending on the water you're boating in.
Yea and flushing it out doesn’t take long at all. Less than half the time of one outboard. It’s also a hell of a lot cheaper unless you compare it to a cheap John boat.
Just bought a Switch and your videos have been SO helpful, thanks.
You're welcome!!
Same! Thank you JetBoatPilot!!
@@Betrayedbyreason it's our pleasure!
I'm on the fence about a Switch vs regular pontoon. This helpful video has pushed me over to a regular pontoon. Thanks
borrrinngg lol
We have been using SeaDoo skis for forever and our biggest complaint was threading the hose every time (we live in salt water so we flush every time). Those quick connects look like a lifesaver! We just purchased our 21' SeaDoo Switch - our first boat ever. I'm hoping that our knowledge of PWCs will help us learn this boat quickly.
For Forever ♾️?⁉️
This guy Will, is All about Profit, he doesn't show you Everything. Especially the flex tether nylon adapter for your Drain plugs. Very very important, so you don't lose your Drain plugs
@@dcrican762flex tether nylon adapter?
Excellent video. Very instructive. Love the energy. Considering my first Switch and you really help take the mystery out of ownership maintenance.
Thank you! We've loved the two that we owned. We have a new one on order.
Jetboatpilot accessories for the Switch rock!!!
Asking again this year for a video on how to remove and lubricate the spark plugs for winterization. Thanks!
@@LonniSwanlund I'll try to add it to the schedule
So much easier listening to you explain it than reading about it. Thanks Will, you should work for Seadoo. You're much more knowledgeable and informative than the dealer. Thanks.
Thanks! I am not a corporate kind of guy! But I appreciate the compliment!
If I can add something for easy flushing and so you don't need to run to shut off the water each time to the value on your building, put Garden Hose Shut Off Valve between the end of the house and your quick disconnect. So you can shut off water by your quick disconnect instead of at the building.
This video was very helpful! Have you done a video on fogging the engine for the winter? If not, can you do one please?
5:01 😂 smashes the rev limiter lol 👌
Great video. I want to put RV antifreeze in my boat for winter storage. I live on a fresh water lake so don't need to do the salt water flush. I assume I simply drain the the current water via the exhaust port on the left and then pump antifreeze thru the system till i see it coming out the exhaust port? What about the pontoon rinse thing? Do i need to get that water out or does it all automatically drain out?
You can add the anti freeze but to be honest if you leave the drain plug out and do a good job blowing the water out with compressed air you don't need to do that step. I don't know if I've seen anyone use antifreeze on an exhaust system, at least not on a switch so I don't have good intel on if that's a problem or not. I would not if it were me.
i think a pvc tube w/holes would hove been a better idea for the hull wash??? good video thanks 🤠
Do you have any video on how to winterize the boat at the end of the season for us in freezing temps in the winter? Thank you!
We do have one for Yamaha boats. It's pretty close to the same.
Can you send the link please? Is the Yamaha an outboard engine or same as the cruise?
@@ssingh1234 here you go: th-cam.com/video/awLqU2TwPow/w-d-xo.htmlsi=IKc4Au4hjT_d73Tl
@@JetBoatPilot Thank you. Love your channel. A dedicated winterizing of the Seadoo Switch Cruise would be amazing, if you can make that happen.
Subscribed and enabled notifications!
Excellent thanks
Love the video thank you for the content. Quick question, do you leave the quck connect adapter connected to the boat at all times?
@@cesarrod101 we do. The female part stays with the boat. The male stays with the hose.
Excellent video
Thanks!
Any chance we can get a video on how to winterize with antifreeze/flushing? BRP said that if the sea-doo dealers recommend it (which ours do) we should do it, especially up north.
@cjgropper possibly, I'll need to study on that.
Me too
Did you find a video doing an antifreeze flush?
@nyzmostwontted not necessary, just blow out the water in the exhaust and you'll be safe.
@@JetBoatPilot Great video!
What else do we need to do to Winterize the boat? Drain gas tank? Oil?
there has been a stop sale immediate corrective action put out on all unregistered switches to do a exhaust cooling mod because they have found that the catalyst overheats and burns a hole in the cat, sadly the amazing brp company has said any registered "sold" units are not covered until this problem happens, then they want to replace the cat and do the upgrade, so any switch owners be aware you could own a switch that could fail, then you got to take it to the dealership, then you have to wait for parts, and knowing brp's part shortages you could possibly be waiting a while most likely loose a season.
Are you able to do a procedural de-winterization video for the Seadoo switch 21?
There's not much to it. Just run hard on first outing, then change oil and plugs, and top off with super unleaded gas on next trip.
I like your videos. You recommended leaving the quick connect hose adapter in the flush port. Any concern leaving it in will reduce water flow to the exhaust during operation? The opening in the quick connect is smaller.
Water is not flowing through the flush port until a pressurized hose is connected to it. It has a check valve in the line so water can't back flow out of the inlet.
I’m wondering if I need to add antifreeze just like when I winterize my Yamaha jetski. Sounds like the steps on your video just works. I live in the east coast and we get snow during winter. Thanks
You don't have to, but if you do it won't hurt
thanks for this. What if water only comes out at the back on both sides? I understand that it should be dribbling out all around.
Its ok. Sometimes it will drain that way if the boat is sitting at an angle. Alot of times mine has drained more noticeably at the back but also trickled some at many other joints in the toons.
@@JetBoatPilot OK thanks! I did raise the Switch up at the front and water dribbled out in other places around it. Odd as I would think that it would have made it drain out more towards the back, but in any case it worked!
Whenever we winterize our seadoo cruise, what do we need to do to start using the seadoo again? Do we need to flush the exhaust prior to use. We want to use our boat during the winter as well. Thanks great video
Just go use it! If you've used fogging oil for the air intake you may get some smoke out of the exhaust but otherwise you'll be fine.
So there isn’t any need to fog the engine or add any antifreeze for the switch to be stored in freezing temps?
No on the antifreeze part. The engine is closed loop and has a coolant inside that will not freeze. The exhaust can be fully evacuated by using the Blowout adapter and compressed air. We have them on our website. You should treat the gas with Stabil or similar and fogging the engine is a good idea if the boat will be stored for more than 90 days.
How do you fog the engine?
When you flush the engine and pontoons, would it be a good idea to flush pumping plumbing antifreeze through them?
I did it last year don't think it hurts to add that extra piece of mind. Up north it gets really cold I didn't wanna risk not doing it. I just added almost a gallon of rv/marine antifreeze into the line I used to blow out with air and just push it through with low pressure until it started coming out the exhaust side.
Great video. Can you park them inside a garage that has a 8ft high door ?
If you remove the Bimini top yes. Not sure if the handle bars and console will clear or not.
Any thoughts on flushing this from a boat lift? We live on the lagoon, and want to keep ours on the lift all year. But if we pull bow in, we can’t access the flush connection from the dock. If we pulled stern in, we wouldn’t have a boarding point. Thoughts?
We're testing a product that allows flushing from a lift. Hopefully can release soon.
On the second step where the cooling system is flush, do you turn the water on from the garden hose on the inlet at the starboard side? Thank you for your video,
Additional question, for Canadian residents, do we pump in antifreeze for winter storage?
Don't worry about anti freeze. Just blow out excess water with our Blowout adapter. The cooling system flush is the same as the standard flush procedure. We just pull the plug to let any trash or sediment get out of the system. Make sure to reinstall the plug or you could fry your exhaust system.
Easy enough good video
Love your video, But I have a couple of questions. 1) what is the correct tire PSI for the Sea-Doo switch trailer? 2) If my Sea-Doo switch veers to the right all the time, How should I adjust it? Thank you.
Email me at will@jetboatpilot.com and I'll help tomorrow
I believe its 45 psi on the trailer tires. I don't have one here at the moment to check but your sidewalls on your tires should tell you the max PSI. Also if you feel like the steering is pulling too hard to the right you can lengthen the steering cable a bit which will give a bit more left nozzle deflection while the handlebars are in the neutral position. Don't do too much of this though as it could limit your steering to the right.
@@JetBoatPilot Thank you, I will try to do that.
Excellent video, thank you. However, at the end you mention "You also have a little drain here. This is for water that gets inside the deck and then rolls out, gets outside the boat this way...." I'm not sure that is accurate. My shop said that is where the bilge pump connects. If you turn on the bilge pump, and there is water in the bilge, it will come out of that hole. I've noticed that when anchored and swimming with a couple of adults standing on the back of the boat, that hole will drop below the water line.
There is a bilge discharge back there. There's also a water bailing system. I'll look again and sww where those lines go. I could have made a mistake. Thanks foe bringing this to my attention.
I just bought a Switch yesterday. The boat is in a marina in soft water at Montreal Canada. Is it bad to live it in water.
JBP should make some sort of in and out stickers for near those ports
True, if we could get them to stick long term that would be helpful.
Interesting that BRP seems to be sending these two decals out now. I received mine last week and they are for the right flush port and the left, which is normally capped.
Question (maybe answered already but scrolled a bit and got impatient 🤷🏼♂️😌): same flushing/ blowing procedure on the toons as the exhaust? (Without the engine of course) We’re in MN where it freezes pretty hard in the winter.
No the toons are self draining so no need to blow out.
Will, thank you and your team for another great video! I didnt hear you mention anything about flushing with Salt Away? Is that step not needed on these boats? I'm coming from a Yamaha 242 and I religiously do that when returning to the marina for the night. Also, would it be beneficial to use salt away in the pontoon flush? Thanks again!
We haven't used Salt Away much, but it's a good idea to use it.
Great video, wondering if I could do the winterizing with antifreeze like I do my PWC
I’ve never done air but always antifreeze until it comes out, I get the -30C or lower where I am.
You can but not mandatory
Your videos are awesome! I'm in Canada and bought a Switch in July. Just starting to think about winterizing. Should I put antifreeze in as well as air compress all the water out or am I fine to just blow it out?
HI Jef. I guess that may be your name. I loved your in-depth videos and I hate admit that I binge watched them last night at past midnight. Only question I have is, my compact does not have the port on the left side that you open after running water through the port on the right side. Mine only has the 2 drain plugs at the bottom and one threaded exhaust port on the right and a non threaded port top left and a threaded hull port on the right top. Wonder if the configuration is different for the compact. Thanks and keep up the good work. Don’t change a single thing.
What year is your compact?
Great video. I had a challenger prior and should be getting my switch soon. I have a question about your quick connect hose adapter, is it safe to leave that in? Such as it isn't reducing the amount of water getting in? Also, I'm sure I'll read this when I get my manual, but does the flush port for the exhaust stay open or closed when in use? Thanks!
I would not leave it on all the time. You really need to seal that system when not in use.
Can you connect to the quick connect with the air hose?
With the right adapter, yes
Does the flush port have to remain open while not in use or can you leave the quick disconnect piece in?
@RosemarysBaby100 we leave the qd in place when in operation but the part that threads onto the garden hose we leave attached to the hose.
Thank you for this. After idling for 90 seconds, you turn off the water and then hit the throttle. In addition to turning off the water, do you have to disconnect the hose before hitting the throttle or can you leave the hose in place until you're done with the second part of the flush?
If you have shut the water off you can leave the hose attached. If not needs to be disconnected first.
@@JetBoatPilot Thank you!
@@JetBoatPilot No water came out of the exhaust plug after flushing. Should I be concerned?
@@RosemarysBaby100 which plug?
I believe it's called the exhaust plug but it is the one on the other side of where the hose attaches. It is kept plugged and in part two of the flushing procedure you are supposed to open it and run the hose & engine again. In videos water typically spills out when the plug is opened.
What size is the inlet threaded?And No antifreeze for hard freezes ?
@@MrDmlive 3/4" GHT (garden hose thread) no anti freeze if you drain the water as per this video using compressed air.
Can you make a video on how to winterize a seadoo switch please?!
Yes we'll plan it
How long does blowing out all the water normally take? Like 20 seconds?
@karyl372 yes not long.
I’m going to be putting mine on a lift beside my dock. That drain is terribly placed. Hard to get there. Any suggestions? I would need a raft in the water to get to it.
Some have attached a hose and quick disconnect to the flush port and have zip tied it under the swim platform. Makes it easy to access on a lift.
Will this also flush out the intercooler for the super charger? hearing it will freeze and crack?
Watch our video featuring the blowout adapter that we sell. It will help you to remove water from the system and prevent freeze damage. This step is helpful but that video speaks more to the blow out procedure.
Any info on how much water flow is enough? The quick connects I’ve been finding have only a small hole in them for water to flow through. Even the Salt Away mixer has a fairly small port. It would be helpful if there was a GPM number we should be trying to hit.
I don't think it's that complicated. A standard quick disconnect fitting seems to work just fine for us.
If I want to keep my Switch on a boat lift, it's impossible to reach down to the flush port from above to connect a hose. Is there any way to redirect the flush port or access it from the engine compartment while on the boat?
It is possible but there are several potential fail points that could cause damage to your boat if you make a mistake during the flush. We did it on our last Switch and it worked well but we ultimately did not recommend the conversion to others due to some really complicated issues that arose during the use of the conversion. In short you can do it but its possible that you will damage your boat's engine if you do it wrong.
hi i have 13-foot switch 2022 it has no exhaust port is the flush the same and is there actually a exhaust port on my boat some ware
@Richard-ql6yj the flush is still the same. I don't think there is an exhaust blow out port on the 13 footer. Sorry about that.
I want one of these
Are you going to sell those pads for the front of the side pontoons? I like those pads with the horn cutouts and all.
Yes, on our website. We have them ready now. Just need to list them.
I am purchasing a switch. I like those style of ID letters. where did u get them?
We make them, 3DNumbers.Net
Will, exceptional video! You now own an 18 and a 21 foot switch. Do you have a favorite? Which do you prefer best the 18 170 or 21 230?
I just purchased the 21 cruise 230 and am wondering your thoughts?
I am not sure but I think we will do a video to discuss this topic
@@JetBoatPilot I’m looking forward to a video on both your sea Doo switch’s comparing the two and what you think is your favorite one
@@swfriis it's coming soon!
@@JetBoatPilot sea Doo switch 18 foot vs 21 foot video going over the differences, what you like better between the 170 or 230 etc. that video would go viral.
@@swfriis We have that in the plans. We just have to get 10 hours on the 21 to do the comparison.
hey how are you, I have the same you have a 2023 18 inc 170 cruise, have a question do you know any way that I can make faster, the 170 is a little bit hard to get some speed on the water
@AnddyMore that's a tough one. Not sure if there's an ecu flash yet. You may want to check with Riva Motorsports. Also possibly an impeller that is pitched for more high speed. But be aware you're not likely to gain more than a few mph.
thanks for answering. do u also know where I can get that grey deck cover u have for the swim platform?
Yes we also make that too: jetboatpilot.com/products/marine-mat-for-seadoo-switch
Just wondering if the boat came with those trim tabs
Yes 2022 18 Cruise
Could you please do an episode of how to remove the floor panels?
When you say floor panels, are you referring to the tiles beneath the rubber mats? If so they come off by removing the corner access tabs and then removing the screws. Pretty simple actually.
Do you have an opinion on the Trim Tabs on these Switch’s? Where should we keep the setting notches at?
I keep mine up or center most of the time. Only time I select bow down is if water is very calm.
Anyone know if the Switch sucks its cooling water, while underway, from that flush port, or from some other place under?
I don’t know much about air pressure 55 psi. Do air pressure tanks have a way to gauge that or is it a compressor that specifically says 55 psi. I found one at harbor freight starts at 110 psi. So not sure why you said 55
55psi is the max that the flush system can handle without damaging the system. You have to have a regulator to dial down your compressor. They're not expensive.
How should I treat this information given that my compact does not have that exhaust hole on the left?
Can you send a picture of yours to will@jetboatpilot.com
I was wondering what type of floor mats you had, did you guys have that available? Or where can I get that type of material? Thanks
We have them available now for the swim platform. Coming Soon we have snap down tiles that look like teak wood
Nice Video, On your Air hose flush, Why not add the regular quick connect to it. so no need to remove the boat and reconnect it again after.
Thanks, not sure I understand the question. Can you elaborate?
Sure, and thank you getting back so fast. So on the engine water flush - you had installed 1/2 quick connect and the other half to the hose. However when using the pneumatic hose - you had removed the quick connect - ad screwed in the air connect. So my thought would be - would it be easier just to have a quick connect on the airhose to the boat -
@@grein46087 we have an adapter that has an air hose quick disconnect on our website. Is that what you mean? I am not sure I could do both water an air through the same line if that's what you're saying.
@@JetBoatPilot Ok not running water and air on the same line. On the boat, there is one half of quick connect, and you had the other on the water hose. I am good there. So when demonstrating the air purge, You had removed the quick connect to screw in your airline. What I am asking is, would it be a easier to also attach a quick connect to the air hose - so there is not any unscrewing the adapter, screw in the air hose [do the air blowout], unscrew air hose and re-screw in the quick connect adapter.
@@grein46087 ahh, I think I understand you better now. I guess that would be pretty simple. Yes.
If using in the same lake every time. Would flushing after each use still be required ?
No, not really. But if Left in the water all the time gunk can build up in the system so it's recommended periodically in that scenario.
Did the boat come with those trim tabs ?
@@owarmorowarmorvideos7180 yes it did
Should an owner spray anti-corrosition spray in those areas of the tritoon that get flushed by that upper flush port?
Not needed. Inside it's polymer and foam.
@@JetBoatPilot I am not arguing with you but I am wondering about the hardware in that location There appears to be quite a bit of fastners and stuff and it looked like it was perhaps in need of anti corrisive spray since water will be in and out of those compartments. Just wondering. I am referring to 9.00 time stamp on the video.
@Paul Kear I guess it could not hurt to do it, but again nut sure it would be mandatory to do it.
put a shut off valve on the end of your hose. Much easier and faster than running all the way back to the spigot to turn off the water
True
Any clue where I can buy one? Been to several dealers and none of them have those or any FXs and say yahama/seadoo is having trouble getting these machines out.
I have seen many dealers with excess inventory on Switch this year. They are not flying off the shelves like they did last year.
I just noticed that I don't have a screw in drain plug cap at the back on the upper right side (ladder side) for the cooling system. This isn't the one up further for flushing the pontoons. Isn't there supposed to be a plug there?
You should see a cap on the lower left and the actual boat drains (just to left and right of the ride plate) all others will be open.
@@JetBoatPilot So it looks like I am missing one of the four cap plugs at the bottom. The two on the left side are there, but the top right one is missing. I presume that I can't launch the Switch until I get a replacement cap, correct? Can I send you a picture to make sure we are looking at the same thing?
@lloydkelly8362 the video features our boat with proper caps. Match yours to our boat.
@@JetBoatPilot I've watched it a couple of times now and it looks like you don't have one in the port where you put the garden hose attachment. is a plug not supposed to go back in there after you take out the hose attachment? Thanks so much for your videos and answers!!
@@lloydkelly8362 correct, only on the drains.
I get a bit of steam/smoke and a hot smell when I’m flushing the engine; is this normal?
Never run for more than 1 minute when the engine is hot. Never more than 2 mins when the engine is cold.
I went to the Sacramento boat show this past weekend and a person selling the current model said the advantage of the jet drive is that if the engine needed repair, he could fix anything in 40 minutes. Would you agree with that? It seems like an exaggeration.
Not completely accurate. The jet pump can be pulled apart at the dock very easily.
@@JetBoatPilot thank you. He stated that if the engine came into his shop, no matter what the problem he could have it fixed and out in 40 minutes. I am 63 years old and I’ve never had a jet boat but I knew that statement had to be an exaggeration. Thank you for your videos and your knowledge.
@craighellberg4366 probably an exaggeration.
New to boating… I turned on the water before running the engine and now all i hear is a click and it won’t start.. any ideas
I doubt it's that. Hoe long did it run without the engine on?
My question is about the motor flush port,when I go boating and I’m done and I pull it out of the water and I undo the bottom drains,do I do the motor flush too? I have only had mine out 3 times before winter and I always drained it when I pulled up the ramp, is this correct or no?
The motor is closed loop so it does not need to be flushed. The exhaust however is open loop and does need to be flushed. The lower right side port shown in the video is the flush port and should be used as shown in this video. The other ports are either flush for the pontoons or drains for the system during winterization. Do not remove the lower left port cap unless you're draining the system for winter storage. You must reinsert that cap prior to flushing the engine or you could damage your exhaust system.
@@JetBoatPilot yes I meant the exhaust, not motor. Should I or should I not drain it every time I take it out of the water is what I’m asking. Or trying to ask. I’m new to any boat
@davidwood1429 the boat has drains nearer to the jet pump (just to the inboard of the trim tabs in our video) and yes it's a good idea to open those drains after every use and reinstall as soon as they're done draining fully. Also jack up the trailers tongue jack fully for max drainage.
@@JetBoatPilot yes I do that for sure ,but I’m talking about the exhaust one,is it good to open it as well or leave it full of water.
@davidwood1429 don't open it unless you're winterizing the boat. It's not necessary to drain after every use. It won't hurt if you drain it but my concern is that you don't put it back in and it causes damage. Since it's not critical to do it after each use, I suggest only take it out when you winterize.
Where does the bilge pump evacuate water from? I thought that was the top hole on the back of the hull. If not, where is it?
I think that is the bilge discharge. Top hole under the swim platform on the port side.
@@JetBoatPilot i just followed these steps for winterizing and thanks for the vid.....question, is there anything i need to do with the drain plugs at the bottom left and right of the jet? i havent seen that i do and they are pretty well screwed in anyway.
@@TheVinceb100 you can remove them and let them hang from their stays.
@@JetBoatPilot its that something that needs to be done? is there water trapped in there?
It can't hurt. @@TheVinceb100
Where can I find those FL stickers
3dnumbers.net
Muaaatap seruuu banget
For the PRICE YOU THINK THEY WOULD INCLUDE IT WITH THE UNIT.
Not everyone needs the adapter so it's optional.
Do you guys have any Sea-Doo switch to sell
We plan to sell our 18 footer this summer. Maybe just after the gathering in July.
These videos are super helpful. You said you use the boat in salt water in a previous video. Do you leave your boat in the water, tied to the dock most of the time or do you put it on your trailer after every use to flush things out?
Out every time, flush on trailer. Don't leave these boats in salt water for more than a fre days at a time.
I foolishly flushed it without the engine on. Am I in trouble?
You're supposed to. Just don't do it f9r more than 1 minute on a hot engine or 2 on a cold engine. Never run water through the flush port with the engine off.
Do not, I repeat: do NOT unhook your boat from the trailer until you are at/in the water! Otherwise you might be trying to figure out how to get your boat off the ramp and back on the trailer.
So let me get this right, you want us to pay alot more money for this craft, and then they made it striped so you must buy all accessories and to top it off instead of just flushing an outboard motor at the end of the day boating ,you must flush the motor then the pontoons that also flushes the deck . Man I'm tired
Nope the boat comes available in many trim levels. Accessories are optional for those who would like them. The flush is not necessary for the engine since its closed loop and uses actual automotive style coolant. The exhaust flush is necessary after use in salt water. In fresh water not really necessary as often. The pontoon flush is needed a couple times per year depending on the water you're boating in.
Yea and flushing it out doesn’t take long at all. Less than half the time of one outboard. It’s also a hell of a lot cheaper unless you compare it to a cheap John boat.
Lol, clearly a Floridian. Doesn't know freezing point of water off hand.
How much clearance/access will you have if placing the table above the trash can?
I think it's about 3 inches