Here is what happens if your make a mistake on a leaning tree th-cam.com/video/h-x9dThrmwA/w-d-xo.html here are my 3 favorite videos on felling a leaning tree: th-cam.com/video/Pfj6DXzeIoU/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/tGLV4AcyYXw/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/nLIEYvHMS8U/w-d-xo.html Please subscribe to our channel here: th-cam.com/users/Rockhillfarmandhomes Follow on Facebook at facebook.com/Rock-Hill-Farm-102050688356056/
Would never "rip" on you Brock...just appreciate what you are trying to do in order for the rest of us to get back home for dinner, bless you my friend...keep on learning cause trees have been around much longer than tree cutters and somehow seem to know more about us than we do about them.
just found your channel today, and I applaud you, sir. Not only did you use the word, "hinge", you also explained hinge percentage. I have worked with trees all of my life, being on a farm with a wood stove forever. As an adult I worked for an arborist company, on the commercial side, doing large contracts for power companies and the like. You would be surprised how many guys, pros and otherwise, know nothing about what you are talking about, yet they want to tell everyone they are wrong. As an example, the C.O.O. at our company, who worked in the field with us, declared as a matter of company policy, at our annual Christmas safety meeting, that no employee of the company was allowed to make bore cuts in any tree ever, because it was too dangerous. I always use bore cuts on any tree over 10 inches in diameter, because it works for me more predictably than any other method. I even have a system to wedge with a bore cut that is idiot proof. When I asked him, in front of the whole company, what made it more dangerous, he couldn't explain. I further asked why professional loggers, who only fell trees for 8-10 hours a day, do it if it is so dangerous. He could not give an answer. But like an abusive husband, he demanded we not do it because he said so. You are giving people good general advice. If the beginner's first video was this one, it would be getting them off on the right foot. My own tip: always bring a new chain, or learn how to hand sharpen a chain to as new sharpness.
well if vyou fancy stiting the pot a bit with this guy who is clearly an idiot, as him, how your supposed to fall leaning trees if you cant bore cut. ask him for the cut sequence he wants you to use. greetings from the UK
@jukeseyable prohibited by the government? Or an employer?. If it’s the government, I would literally leave the country. How do they have any say about the way you cut down a tree? Are you allowed to hold a spoon left-handed? Is there a law about how many chairs you can have in your living room? It’s employer, find another employer. Preferably one who understands tree felling. A bore cut makes it safer. Pretty much any experienced logger or arborist will tell you that.
I like your style, Dude. I've been cutting and trimming trees for almost 9 years. Every so often, I have a moment where I feel like I need some added guidance. I don't have many experienced guys that I can just ask and get reliable advice, especially without ego getting in the way. I know a few guys, besides myself, who also need to see this.
I like that you emphasize taking your time to cut. In the past, I would often cut a tree when I was exhausted or in a hurry... and the mistakes can be SERIOUS!! Even filming for a youtube video can be distracting from the focus you should have on a tree!! Great Video Brock! Cheers, --J.Andre.
Thank you for your lengthy explanations...it is time well spent and in the future may play a part in helping some weekend warrior from severely injuring themselves...thanks again and please keep on posting your informative and educational videos, later.
I agree. Research is your best friend and starting with smaller trees that are away from anything that you don’t want to destroy. I also like the bore cut method. Also not everyone cuts a tree perfectly every time. Thanks for the video.
I’m doing the same, trying to watch enough videos to make me confident enough to tackle some “big” trees I have. Several box elders with severe leans, maybe 15” in diameter. They scare me a bit. Your videos help, thanks!
I plan to cut down a fruit tree in my garden in the near future. Your tips are very helpful to me, I'm glad that you pay a lot of attention to safety. I have subscribed!
Howdy Brock! I think you did a really good job with your explanations. Learning how to size up a tree before touching the saw is so important. No 2 trees are the same... so learning different techniques is paramount to mitigating risk to yourself and possible damage to property (lots of videos of people felling trees into their house or barn). Good stuff and well done 🤠
Great video Brock, I've got a bunch of trees on my property to take down. I've only taken down around 25 trees total in my lifetime and it still makes me nervous every time I cut a big tree. Like you said I think it's a good thing to have that fear, it keeps you thinking the whole time, the day I cut a big tree and I don't have that little bit of fear I'm going to start worrying..
Good video Brock , well.explained . I carry a piece of sidewalk chalk with me and actually 'draw' rough outlines on my tree for my cuts , helps me keep track just a bit better. pc
That’s a great strategy. For a while I was doing that with a can of marking paint. Couple people made snide comments about it and I quit doing it on videos but I still think that’s the best way to line up your cuts I need to put a piece of chalk in my toolbox
This is the content I needed right now. I have 12 large trees to fell and I’m absolutely terrified of making a costly or dare I say deadly mistake. Many are on hills, some have others hung up in them where the derecho chopped the top half off and the worst few have old deer stands in them and have random metal spikes throughout (I might just pay a professional to handle those 3). Any tips and strategies are greatly appreciated, thank you 👍
The best advice is bring an experienced person. Have a 2nd opinion about the lean and the strategy. I'm not super experienced but I've been with a group of guys where I was the only one who could "see" how the weight was gonna carry it. If a tree looks unpredictable (some types do) dont even attempt it without more experienced assessment. Once you see a big trunk kick out hard sideways where a guy could have been standing you will never be overconfident about it again.
Suggestion: If you're not cutting the trigger into the bore, cut it below the bore. The reason is that if there are tree/fibers left, it will most likely be between the trigger cut and the bore cut, and if it is above it might pinch the bar and bring it with the tree. This is more pronounced on heavy front leaners that can snap the trigger early/violently. On the other hand, those are easier to trigger from the bore and out...
Good morning, Brock. As you know by now I'm getting on in years and I'm prone to giving advice from time to time but a wise man once told me that if every day of your life that you take the time to learn something new you might learn one tenth of the things that will get you through. Like I said, I've been known to give a lot of advice but I've also learned a lot from your videos. So please keep doing what you're doing. Opinions are like @&%!&%. Everybody has one. By passing on knowledge you may be saving someone's life. God bless, I talk too much. 😁😁😊
nice video man, not sure if i missed it, but always good practice to make sure you have a clear egress path as well in case things go side ways. keep up the good work
Advanced timber cutting advice is to bore out the heart through your face cut..punch out on both sides leaving two separate hinges jump over to your sides where you punched out get your hinge thickness set and start your back cut (bigger timber espescially hard leaners
Very nice content. The only thing that I do that you probably do but didn’t mention is inspect for stuff in the tree. I have taken down so many fence row trees, it is a safety necessity. In your opinion you don’t feel like a professional, however a careful man with your approach is more valuable to me, thank you.
I will cut that tree up in the next few days, but it doesn’t look like it will make a sawlog. It had a small hole in the big end, and down the line it was completely hollow
I love cutting down trees. That may get the tree huggers in an uproar, but it is what it is. The way to judge whether your cut was a success is to count your arms and legs. If they're all there, you are standing, and there is no blood, it's all good. Whether the tree fell where it was supposed to is another story. You can get better at putting them where you want them as you gain experience, but getting experience in being injured or killed has no place in tree felling. You can read books and watch videos. You can ask advice or watch others do it. The only way you will get better is to do all that, and then start cutting trees down. Good eye with that hump of dirt, Brock! The first time I ran into that situation, the butt end of the tree jumped about ten feet in the air. I was surprised, and surprises aren't a good thing when cutting down trees. If you get surprised, you didn't do enough calculating beforehand. Don't overlook anything! And staying at a Holiday Inn Express has no value whatsoever when tree cutting. Neither does haste. But you made that all perfectly clear in your video. I enjoyed it immensely. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks. I also love felling trees. You make a good point that no amount of studying, watching videos, and asking questions makes up for actually doing it. The tree I barber chaired a while back, Paul Case had warned me how to avoid that and I didn’t understand until I saw it The best thing you can do when you’re starting is get a mentor with experience but that’s not always available to everybody
@@RockhillfarmYT you get a stick or broom pole and hold it out in your hand so the end touches the corner of your eye . Then flip it up forming a triangle your eye your top of stick and top of your hand . Walk back until the your making a triangle with the top of the tree and the top of the stick , your eye and the top of your hand at the cut . When the top of the stick is at the top of the tree and your hand is at your cut , you made a triangle and that is where the tree will land , well the top of the tree . I'll try to find it and post to your Fb . It helps know the danger zone and how far to keep equipment back especially when dead trees that the tops & branches bounce off the ground and break a windshield exc .
I agree with everything you have said. On a tree that has barber chaired on you is in a lot of cases because you have hesitated when making your back cut . Do not Hesitate when making that cut. Power all the way to your hinge
Yeah, that requires you to go fast at the end, which is what most people do if they say I’m overthinking this. I prefer to take my time. With the bore cut I can 90% cut the tree down and stop and look at everything before releasing the hinge. I’m not saying that the way you do it is right or wrong. Just my preference.
I'm completely ignorant on felling trees. It looked like you did what you wanted to do but you were not happy with the stump. What was wrong with it? Thanks for putting yourself out there.
I’m aiming for perfect cut placement. Bottom of the face cut perfectly level that cut perfectly level exactly the same height above the face cut. There are a few things that are critical, but for the most part, you don’t have to make a perfect cut. Have a successful cell. I just figure, especially with a demonstration video, but if you aim for perfect, you’ll end up with good enough. where I didn’t get it lined up would stand out to a professional. It’s not about understanding it’s about execution.
"No matter how much you know or what you do, cutting trees down is dangerous." What a great quote! I knew a professional forester for U.S. Steel with 40 years experience. He ran a pulpwood business on the side. A tree he was cutting kicked out and broke his hip. He said it could have killed him. If this could happen to hm it could happen to anyone.
the other thing thats maybe worse than the kickback of the tree with the facecut is if you lets say have a not meeting cut on half the diameter of the tree then you have basically partly or completely cut that part of the hinge even with the angled cut and thats really dangerous and also when cutting leave the hinge thicker specially with long enough bar and set your wedges in half way or so and then just nibble at the hinge tiny bit and then hit the wedge more if it moves a little the tree tells you everything you need to do you just have to know how to read it and youll get any tree down i always put the wedge in the cut even if i dont really need it but just incase because tree can be standing perfectly and it could still lean back and then you struggle to get the wedge in if you have them use them even if not very nessecary
Talking safety reminds me of the cat shake hands with danger video. Now days every thing has a warning label. But doing outside work doesn't have any of those.
With that tree, I would have used a Humboldt notch, bored the center in the notch, then cut level with the notch by boring in behind the hinge and out the back.
Mid size tree in eastern United States..we cut completely different than out west not saying one is easier or harder just all around different..we bore cut because mainly cutting hardwood where they can cut from the back
I been around tree cutting my whole life. I wouldn’t give that cut a failing grade. One major benefit of the bore cut not mentioned, is that the bar has basically zero chance of being trapped. Where’s when finishing up a conventional, the tree’s weight may shift when finishing up the hinge.
Too narrow and too of a hinge can cause weight of tree to crush hinge fibers and pinch your saw. Softer or decayed wood hinges need to be bigger than 10 %.
One thing I do is when the tree starts to fall I head for my safe zone far away from the tree, until it is solid on the ground. When the gap at the bottom starts to get wider, that is my signal to clear out. Let gravity take over.
That’s good if you aren’t cutting for money..I’ve seen stuff fly back out of tops and hit people that got 20 to 35’ away from the tree they cut..be safe
@@caseyc4516 I know what is up there, and my safe zone is usually under other protective trees, I have been doing this since I was 13 years old, I am 77 years old now and the only time I hurt myself doing this was when I clobbered my finger with a hammer while trying to split a round with the hammer and wedge, I have an electric splitter now.
You said at the beginning you intended to make a "comprehensive guide" to felling trees. This scratches the surface, and covers two basic principles. There are many more things to know about tree felling. You need to be a bit more careful in your language, as to exactly what your video's purpose it.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on it. I didn’t get 250,000 combined subscribers and a full time income but not knowing what works in videos I know what the comment section looks like if you don’t fully explain yourself
Advanced timber cutting advice is to bore out the heart through your face cut..punch out on both sides leaving two separate hinges jump over to your sides where you punched out get your hinge thickness set and start your back cut (bigger timber espescially hard leaners
Here is what happens if your make a mistake on a leaning tree
th-cam.com/video/h-x9dThrmwA/w-d-xo.html
here are my 3 favorite videos on felling a leaning tree:
th-cam.com/video/Pfj6DXzeIoU/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/tGLV4AcyYXw/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/nLIEYvHMS8U/w-d-xo.html
Please subscribe to our channel here: th-cam.com/users/Rockhillfarmandhomes
Follow on Facebook at
facebook.com/Rock-Hill-Farm-102050688356056/
Man, that's good advice. I fear every tree I put my chainsaw on. I don't care how big it is, I respect the tree, period!! Great video, Brock!
Would never "rip" on you Brock...just appreciate what you are trying to do in order for the rest of us to get back home for dinner, bless you my friend...keep on learning cause trees have been around much longer than tree cutters and somehow seem to know more about us than we do about them.
just found your channel today, and I applaud you, sir. Not only did you use the word, "hinge", you also explained hinge percentage. I have worked with trees all of my life, being on a farm with a wood stove forever. As an adult I worked for an arborist company, on the commercial side, doing large contracts for power companies and the like. You would be surprised how many guys, pros and otherwise, know nothing about what you are talking about, yet they want to tell everyone they are wrong. As an example, the C.O.O. at our company, who worked in the field with us, declared as a matter of company policy, at our annual Christmas safety meeting, that no employee of the company was allowed to make bore cuts in any tree ever, because it was too dangerous. I always use bore cuts on any tree over 10 inches in diameter, because it works for me more predictably than any other method. I even have a system to wedge with a bore cut that is idiot proof. When I asked him, in front of the whole company, what made it more dangerous, he couldn't explain. I further asked why professional loggers, who only fell trees for 8-10 hours a day, do it if it is so dangerous. He could not give an answer. But like an abusive husband, he demanded we not do it because he said so. You are giving people good general advice. If the beginner's first video was this one, it would be getting them off on the right foot. My own tip: always bring a new chain, or learn how to hand sharpen a chain to as new sharpness.
Thanks for sharing. I am also a big fan of the bore cut.
well if vyou fancy stiting the pot a bit with this guy who is clearly an idiot, as him, how your supposed to fall leaning trees if you cant bore cut. ask him for the cut sequence he wants you to use. greetings from the UK
What do you mean if you can’t bore cut
What does that mean?
@ cant bore cut as in prohibited , not allowed to do it
@jukeseyable prohibited by the government? Or an employer?.
If it’s the government, I would literally leave the country. How do they have any say about the way you cut down a tree? Are you allowed to hold a spoon left-handed? Is there a law about how many chairs you can have in your living room?
It’s employer, find another employer. Preferably one who understands tree felling.
A bore cut makes it safer. Pretty much any experienced logger or arborist will tell you that.
I like your style, Dude. I've been cutting and trimming trees for almost 9 years. Every so often, I have a moment where I feel like I need some added guidance. I don't have many experienced guys that I can just ask and get reliable advice, especially without ego getting in the way. I know a few guys, besides myself, who also need to see this.
Great advice, like you I have watched a lot of videos about felling trees.
Yesterday I felled my first 'big' tree using this exact technique! Thanks 👍
I like that you emphasize taking your time to cut. In the past, I would often cut a tree when I was exhausted or in a hurry... and the mistakes can be SERIOUS!! Even filming for a youtube video can be distracting from the focus you should have on a tree!! Great Video Brock! Cheers, --J.Andre.
Thanks
Thank you for your lengthy explanations...it is time well spent and in the future may play a part in helping some weekend warrior from severely injuring themselves...thanks again and please keep on posting your informative and educational videos, later.
I agree. Research is your best friend and starting with smaller trees that are away from anything that you don’t want to destroy. I also like the bore cut method. Also not everyone cuts a tree perfectly every time. Thanks for the video.
Good job! Thanks for the great information on cutting and dropping tree's.
I've seen a few "experts" in my time, some of them were legends in their own mind!
I’m doing the same, trying to watch enough videos to make me confident enough to tackle some “big” trees I have. Several box elders with severe leans, maybe 15” in diameter. They scare me a bit. Your videos help, thanks!
I love the tree content on this channel as I do similar work myself and have learned from you.
Thanks and please keep this content coming!
I plan to cut down a fruit tree in my garden in the near future. Your tips are very helpful to me, I'm glad that you pay a lot of attention to safety. I have subscribed!
Thanks
Really enjoyed this one Brock!
Thanks
Howdy Brock! I think you did a really good job with your explanations. Learning how to size up a tree before touching the saw is so important. No 2 trees are the same... so learning different techniques is paramount to mitigating risk to yourself and possible damage to property (lots of videos of people felling trees into their house or barn). Good stuff and well done 🤠
Great video Brock, I've got a bunch of trees on my property to take down. I've only taken down around 25 trees total in my lifetime and it still makes me nervous every time I cut a big tree. Like you said I think it's a good thing to have that fear, it keeps you thinking the whole time, the day I cut a big tree and I don't have that little bit of fear I'm going to start worrying..
Thank you for the video. I’ve been doing this a long time and yet I still learned something from you today.
Right, absolutely no need to angle cut. Check your lean! Great video
Good video Brock , well.explained . I carry a piece of sidewalk chalk with me and actually 'draw' rough outlines on my tree for my cuts , helps me keep track just a bit better.
pc
That’s a great strategy. For a while I was doing that with a can of marking paint.
Couple people made snide comments about it and I quit doing it on videos but I still think that’s the best way to line up your cuts
I need to put a piece of chalk in my toolbox
Great video. Thanks for posting.
This is the content I needed right now. I have 12 large trees to fell and I’m absolutely terrified of making a costly or dare I say deadly mistake. Many are on hills, some have others hung up in them where the derecho chopped the top half off and the worst few have old deer stands in them and have random metal spikes throughout (I might just pay a professional to handle those 3). Any tips and strategies are greatly appreciated, thank you 👍
The best advice is bring an experienced person. Have a 2nd opinion about the lean and the strategy. I'm not super experienced but I've been with a group of guys where I was the only one who could "see" how the weight was gonna carry it. If a tree looks unpredictable (some types do) dont even attempt it without more experienced assessment. Once you see a big trunk kick out hard sideways where a guy could have been standing you will never be overconfident about it again.
Suggestion: If you're not cutting the trigger into the bore, cut it below the bore. The reason is that if there are tree/fibers left, it will most likely be between the trigger cut and the bore cut, and if it is above it might pinch the bar and bring it with the tree. This is more pronounced on heavy front leaners that can snap the trigger early/violently. On the other hand, those are easier to trigger from the bore and out...
Good morning, Brock. As you know by now I'm getting on in years and I'm prone to giving advice from time to time but a wise man once told me that if every day of your life that you take the time to learn something new you might learn one tenth of the things that will get you through. Like I said, I've been known to give a lot of advice but I've also learned a lot from your videos. So please keep doing what you're doing. Opinions are like @&%!&%. Everybody has one. By passing on knowledge you may be saving someone's life. God bless, I talk too much. 😁😁😊
nice video man, not sure if i missed it, but always good practice to make sure you have a clear egress path as well in case things go side ways. keep up the good work
Thanks
great Job ! Thank You !
Thanks
Advanced timber cutting advice is to bore out the heart through your face cut..punch out on both sides leaving two separate hinges jump over to your sides where you punched out get your hinge thickness set and start your back cut (bigger timber espescially hard leaners
Nicely explained. I am going to save this video. Cheers!
Thanks
New sub! I believe I am somewhat close by you as I am in NE Oklahoma. You made some good points in your tutorial! Good job
Yes. I am near miami Oklahoma.
Very nice content. The only thing that I do that you probably do but didn’t mention is inspect for stuff in the tree. I have taken down so many fence row trees, it is a safety necessity. In your opinion you don’t feel like a professional, however a careful man with your approach is more valuable to me, thank you.
Keep up the good work Brock.
Thank you for helping explain it
Really good word to keep living by keep it up Brock
How long are you going to keep the log before we see the either firewood cutup or log cutting for slabs?
I will cut that tree up in the next few days, but it doesn’t look like it will make a sawlog.
It had a small hole in the big end, and down the line it was completely hollow
@Rockhillfarmandhomes So would that make it unsavory for fire wood?
Some of it is too far gone for anything, but I will get a good bit of firewood out of that
Which tree is it left or right
Very good Brock!
Thanks.
I love cutting down trees. That may get the tree huggers in an uproar, but it is what it is. The way to judge whether your cut was a success is to count your arms and legs. If they're all there, you are standing, and there is no blood, it's all good. Whether the tree fell where it was supposed to is another story. You can get better at putting them where you want them as you gain experience, but getting experience in being injured or killed has no place in tree felling. You can read books and watch videos. You can ask advice or watch others do it. The only way you will get better is to do all that, and then start cutting trees down. Good eye with that hump of dirt, Brock! The first time I ran into that situation, the butt end of the tree jumped about ten feet in the air. I was surprised, and surprises aren't a good thing when cutting down trees. If you get surprised, you didn't do enough calculating beforehand. Don't overlook anything! And staying at a Holiday Inn Express has no value whatsoever when tree cutting. Neither does haste. But you made that all perfectly clear in your video. I enjoyed it immensely. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks. I also love felling trees.
You make a good point that no amount of studying, watching videos, and asking questions makes up for actually doing it.
The tree I barber chaired a while back, Paul Case had warned me how to avoid that and I didn’t understand until I saw it
The best thing you can do when you’re starting is get a mentor with experience but that’s not always available to everybody
Do you know how to have / know how far the top of the tree should go? Using a stick ? If so u can make a video on that . Great job 🤪
I don’t know that trick
@@RockhillfarmYT you get a stick or broom pole and hold it out in your hand so the end touches the corner of your eye . Then flip it up forming a triangle your eye your top of stick and top of your hand .
Walk back until the your making a triangle with the top of the tree and the top of the stick , your eye and the top of your hand at the cut . When the top of the stick is at the top of the tree and your hand is at your cut , you made a triangle and that is where the tree will land , well the top of the tree . I'll try to find it and post to your Fb . It helps know the danger zone and how far to keep equipment back especially when dead trees that the tops & branches bounce off the ground and break a windshield exc .
Sent it to your Fb
I’m watching it now
@@toddcaskey9984 it’s math and it works, I can’t explain it but I know it works, I’ve done it a few times 👍🏻
So logging 101 when cutting the face you make a horizontal first because it is a lot easier to be accurate with the depth. Then you cut the angle
You are not an "expert", as you say, but you are an "accomplished practitioner"!
Thanks
It is the right one
I agree with everything you have said. On a tree that has barber chaired on you is in a lot of cases because you have hesitated when making your back cut . Do not Hesitate when making that cut. Power all the way to your hinge
Yeah, that requires you to go fast at the end, which is what most people do if they say I’m overthinking this.
I prefer to take my time. With the bore cut I can 90% cut the tree down and stop and look at everything before releasing the hinge.
I’m not saying that the way you do it is right or wrong. Just my preference.
I'm completely ignorant on felling trees. It looked like you did what you wanted to do but you were not happy with the stump. What was wrong with it? Thanks for putting yourself out there.
I’m aiming for perfect cut placement. Bottom of the face cut perfectly level that cut perfectly level exactly the same height above the face cut.
There are a few things that are critical, but for the most part, you don’t have to make a perfect cut. Have a successful cell.
I just figure, especially with a demonstration video, but if you aim for perfect, you’ll end up with good enough. where I didn’t get it lined up would stand out to a professional. It’s not about understanding it’s about execution.
@@RockhillfarmYT "Perfection is Not Attainable, But If We Chase Perfection We Can Catch Excellence" Vince Lombardi
"No matter how much you know or what you do, cutting trees down is dangerous." What a great quote! I knew a professional forester for U.S. Steel with 40 years experience. He ran a pulpwood business on the side. A tree he was cutting kicked out and broke his hip. He said it could have killed him. If this could happen to hm it could happen to anyone.
the other thing thats maybe worse than the kickback of the tree with the facecut is if you lets say have a not meeting cut on half the diameter of the tree then you have basically partly or completely cut that part of the hinge even with the angled cut and thats really dangerous and also when cutting leave the hinge thicker specially with long enough bar and set your wedges in half way or so and then just nibble at the hinge tiny bit and then hit the wedge more if it moves a little the tree tells you everything you need to do you just have to know how to read it and youll get any tree down i always put the wedge in the cut even if i dont really need it but just incase because tree can be standing perfectly and it could still lean back and then you struggle to get the wedge in if you have them use them even if not very nessecary
Talking safety reminds me of the cat shake hands with danger video. Now days every thing has a warning label. But doing outside work doesn't have any of those.
With that tree, I would have used a Humboldt notch, bored the center in the notch, then cut level with the notch by boring in behind the hinge and out the back.
Are you on the east coast or something? Those aren’t considered big trees where I live 😂
Mid size tree in eastern United States..we cut completely different than out west not saying one is easier or harder just all around different..we bore cut because mainly cutting hardwood where they can cut from the back
Its Called a dogs tooth ..if not mistaken
It barber chairs because the face cut isn’t deep enough
Strange cut
I been around tree cutting my whole life. I wouldn’t give that cut a failing grade. One major benefit of the bore cut not mentioned, is that the bar has basically zero chance of being trapped. Where’s when finishing up a conventional, the tree’s weight may shift when finishing up the hinge.
Thanks
Too narrow and too of a hinge can cause weight of tree to crush hinge fibers and pinch your saw.
Softer or decayed wood hinges need to be bigger than 10 %.
One thing I do is when the tree starts to fall I head for my safe zone far away from the tree, until it is solid on the ground. When the gap at the bottom starts to get wider, that is my signal to clear out. Let gravity take over.
That’s good if you aren’t cutting for money..I’ve seen stuff fly back out of tops and hit people that got 20 to 35’ away from the tree they cut..be safe
@@caseyc4516 I know what is up there, and my safe zone is usually under other protective trees, I have been doing this since I was 13 years old, I am 77 years old now and the only time I hurt myself doing this was when I clobbered my finger with a hammer while trying to split a round with the hammer and wedge, I have an electric splitter now.
You said at the beginning you intended to make a "comprehensive guide" to felling trees. This scratches the surface, and covers two basic principles. There are many more things to know about tree felling. You need to be a bit more careful in your language, as to exactly what your video's purpose it.
Dude you should really know what you are doing if you are giving tutorials…. Face cut should be deeper
They were right, you do talk a lot
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on it.
I didn’t get 250,000 combined subscribers and a full time income but not knowing what works in videos
I know what the comment section looks like if you don’t fully explain yourself
Advanced timber cutting advice is to bore out the heart through your face cut..punch out on both sides leaving two separate hinges jump over to your sides where you punched out get your hinge thickness set and start your back cut (bigger timber espescially hard leaners