The Harderwoods.com pipe joint template is awesome. Note that in their tool they say it won't print correctly using the Chrome browser. As of today 03/22/2021 the template I printed for a 20" barrel and 4" branch (with wall thickness .01") was dead on when I measured it using the scales that print on the template pages. I've been designing my own HFT DC mods, and your video helps me validate that my own design is viable. Considering that you put this out almost 6 years ago, I imagine you've probably helped thousands of hobbyists like myself improve conditions in their shops. Thank you for the work you've done.
Hi Matt, same here ran across your channel researching dust collection ideas. Has anyone ever said that you sound like one of those guys that do the product reviews for tools. Your pretty precise with your speech which makes it easy to listen to you. Great video Thanks !!!!!!!!
I found your site today (2-18-20). Very well done. I have viewed many videos on dust collectors & always had a few questions after. You provided those answers. Thanks!
Matt, I just now found this most informative video. I'm currently struggling to hook up my dust collection system and fighting the vagueness of air hose and tubing connectors. This video demonstrated beyond all doubt the effectiveness of this version of a fein dust extractor. I live the elegance of this system. You did a great job joining the duct to the drum. I looked at the pipe joint template site you provided and find it very interesting and useful. One suggestion for what it's worth, if I might: For this application, to cut the duct going into the drum, if you were to use PVC drain pipe, you could screw a short section of the drain pipe to the plywood you cut the fein device from; place the plywood with pipe connected on a circle cutting jig attached to your band saw and cut the circle. As your band saw cuts the plywood circle that will fit inside the drum, it will also cut the radius end on the PVC pipe. The useful piece will be outside the circle and the waste is inside. A circle cutting jig is simply a section of plywood with a nail or screw located a radius distance from the bandsaw blade and the workpiece has a small hole at the intended center of the circle to be cut. The future circle piece is placed on the nail or screw to be rotated. Turning it around against the blade cuts both pieces at once. The PVC radius end then also becomes a template to trace the outline to be cut from the drum. I never tried to cut metal tubing but PVC cuts easily as long as the piece of wood you use for a jig is stationary and does not flex to cause the blade to bind. A little ingenuity in crafting fixtures for slanted tubing allows this technique to be used in joining small PVC to large PVC. Your video inspired me to go your route instead of the super dust deputy.
I just picked up a 2hp Grizzly Dust Collector for $50. Definitely a steal. Your setup is something I'm going to copy in my shop. Thanks for providing the link to the templates for cutting the inlet pipe and drum. I have a 55 gallon thick walled plastic barrel that I'm going to use and I should be able to have more room in it for the thien baffle.
I put an Oneida pleated filter on mine. Also noticed your Dust Deputy cyclon with what I assume is a shop vac in the box. After ex[erimenting a while I ended up with two Sears wall hanging vacumns in series to power mine. To keep down the noise I have a long about one square foot box on the exhauset with a lining and baffle system made from duct board used to fold insulated air ducts. That really cut down the noise.
I've seen what seems like a hundred or so cyclone/Thien separator videos and your has the two absolute best recommendations I've seen: the fiber barrel with lid (those things are perfect!), and the web calculator for the intersection shape. The rest of the information and the clear presentation are icing on the cake. Well done!
Hi Matt - Just ran across your channel while looking for info on this dust collector. Thanks for sharing this. Looks like you have lots of great videos that I can binge watch. Will share your channel with my friends. Nice work!
I saw this very same collector at harbor freight, and thought about doing a conversion similar to yours but with the final output passing through a Hepa grade filter
Adding a hepafilter is expensive, it would have to be very large in square feet for good airflow because of the huge pressure drop (air flow restriction) it has. Plus there expensive. In an application like your proposing I would add cheaper pre filters before the hepa filters cause heoas of that size are very expensive....
Great overview of your system. I have 2 thien seperators on the go and planning a 3rd to go on a similar collector as yours. Something to consider when you want to replace the bag, instead of paying the premium for a "woodworking" dust collector filter, look into an air filter for large trucks/heavy equipment. They will be a whole lot cheaper, and have similar specs to the ones marketed to woodworkers. You just have to make your own adapter ring for it to fit the collector, but I am sure you are more than capable of doing that.
AWESOME!!! I was given the 2 most important parts on a Grizzly 2HP unit, and just today ordered the missing pieces, and wanted to add a separator in the most compact way possible, and this is it!!! I have 15' ceilings so I think I'm going to mount the motor and impeller and filter unit as high up as I can get away with to save floor space. We shall see what happens. Thanks!
Most of the commercial systems put the pleated filter on the bottom and the bag or dump chute below it. The top of course would be blocked off. As for the cyclone system it too was a separate drum and under it was a barrel on a drum dollie like the ones you get on the 55 gallon vacuum kits.
Matt - Thanks for sharing your insight on this! At first, I thought I'd just buy a new cyclone system but am now convinced to just go ahead and improve upon my existing 2 hp bag system!
Nice video. I went down a rabbit hole reading overcomplicating articles and designs. I ended up buying a super dust deputy. Your design is simple and obviously works really well. Be. Ice if you replaced the cloth with a wynn filter.
2:49 when that piece finally fell from the collector lid. I almost backed out of this video because of that piece hanging on. Ha ha! Very well done by the way!
Nice vid! I think I just found the design I'm going to copy. Just bought the HF dust collector, got a barrel and now realize I don't need the super dust deputy using your design so saved some $! Thx
I redesigned a squat multi stage 500mm X 500mm X 250 high WITH NO FILTER 99.9% chips to 4 micron. (Queensland University Electron Microscope tested) 125mm duct IN.OUT 2hp Too bulky, Expensive FILTER, in most cases less than mine collects Dust removal is the point of the exercise, Cheers
One good idea to add to your system i think. On the side of the collection barrell install a 1" site glass ( plexi glass ) strip from top to bottom so you can see when your barrell is full.
Your point about the motor alone being worth the price is spot on. I've checked out many motors online and most, even 1/4 HP motors are over $100. Check out the many shop built tools people make and most require a motor. An example is the cheapo harbor freight belt sander/disc sander..It costs about $50, but the motor alone cost more than the entire sander. This leads me to the line of reasoning that if you need a new motor for various projects just go buy a harbor freight tool and strip out the motor and you'll probably be saving money over just buying a motor. Well anyway, I'm going to get the dust collector from HF because my shop is becoming entombed in dust and has become a spider web playground. I might as well take up smoking fiberglass cigarettes. Now it's just a matter of saving up the scratch and getting the right coupon for HF.
martino amello, I've had a wood shop for over 25 years and finally last week found a, like new, HF dust collector for $100, now I wondering why it took me so long? Good luck to you.
Motors are not all the same. The load you put on it, motor design, bearing quality, how much copper in the windings, etc. will all affect the motor life. Bigger copper wire means less heat - but copper costs, so count on the windings being a bit smaller than they should be for long life. Let us know what tools have good motors in them!
Speaking as an old guy whose lungs are shot in part from breathing fine wood flour for 40 years I can tell you that the damage you inflict upon yourself never gets better only worse even after you use a HEPA filter.
Really good information there mate. Nice one. I’ve had a kity separator thing like yours for ages now as I’ve not known what to do with it. I got it super cheap from a yard sale. As of now I actually have a clue what to do. Yippee !! Thanks for the vid mukka. 😀🇬🇧👍🏻
11:35 It's super simple to change the 15 amp breaker to a 20 amp breaker and to put in a 20 amp electrical outlet. I really like the setup. I've seen others and they are overkill and this one is as simple as can be and looks to work flawlessly.
It's easy, but it's a terrible idea unless you plan to pull new wire as well. Code only allows for a 15A circuit on the wire I have. I have actually since run conduit around the shop for some 240VAC that I needed, and I did put in a proper 20A circuit for this.
Run 20 Amps through a circuit wire for 15 Amps is a very bad idea, and a good way to eventually set your workshop on fire. 15 Amp circuits are run with 14 gauge wire (white Romex), 20 Amp circuits with 12 Gauge (Yellow Romex).
Great video. As a thought....could you attach a large garbage bag to the bottom of the cyclone plywood (via tape, screws, clamps, etc) to catch dust/chips? Maybe it would make emptying the barrel easier by lifting the bag out? I'm sure some dust could get by and into the barrel but it would save dumping the barrel as often (if it works that is). I plan on getting a unit soon and will use your cyclone idea as well. Thanks for posting.
"I will never understand what it is that makes us as woodworkers enjoy looking at sawdust in buckets and barrels, but here it is." Oh, that's easy. If it's in the barrel, it's not all over the floor!
Great video. Subbed. I once used an old car radiator fan (powered by a battry charger), blocked into a window, to suck the air (and small particles) out of a room. Seemed to work well. No sign of dust out side and kept dust out of the rest of the house. =D I did have dust extraction on my table saw.... you can't chuck eveything out the window =D
Nice review and good points! Definitely like your thine collector and barrel. Would like to have heard it running and seen it working. Just to complete the review.
great video-- glad I saw this first...no I can seek out the other videos that will show me the physics of your modifications. But even now without them I can do trial and error to get that cyclone lid to work. thanks again.
Hi Matt. Great video. I'm just about ready to pull the trigger on the 2 HP HF dust collector. One thing I'm curious about is why not duct the discharge of the blower directly outside versus into the limited 5 micron bag? You'd save a bunch of space in the shop and you'd eliminate all the particulates (even better than replacing the bag with a pleated 0.5 micron filter). Again, just looking for your opinion on the idea. Keep up the good work!
+dawgpoundbutch I've had that idea on my mind for a while. It's why I haven't pulled the trigger on an upgraded Wynn filter for the machine. Problem is that it's cold here in Western PA for at least 1/2 the year - and the 1/2 where I get the most shop time to boot. The dust collector will move pretty much all of the air in the shop outside in just a few minutes, and at the moment my only heat is portable kerosene. Not only does it take forever to replace that heat, but having to run it on full blast constantly becomes a fume issue. But dust collection is now about my biggest problem (terrible workbench is a close second). The band saw really threw my hose scheme out the window. I need to get serious about coming up with some good ideas on how to fix this...
"I will never understand what it is that makes us as woodworkers enjoy looking at sawdust in buckets and barrels, but here it is" < cue cheesy 70's porn music >
Matt, Great video! I'm curious since there is so little dust that makes it out of the barrel and into the bag, why not just vent to the outside of your shop, think dryer vent.
Always been in the plans for an option, but the real issue is climate control. 3/4 of the year is heating season here in WPA, and the dust collector can take hours of heat out of the shop in minutes.
Hi I know you made this video some time ago, but I will be construction something similar. I like to tap in to your experience, my question is. when you mounted the motor with the rotor section with the suction hole facing down motor shaft vertical... which is not what was designed for, " DID YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEM WITH THE MOTOR SHAFT AS THE LOAD IS BEING ON NORMAL ROLLER BEARINGS IN THE MOTOR , NORMALLY WILL BE TRUST BEARINGS TO SUPPORT THE MOTOR SHAFT AND THE IMPALA HANGING FROM IT ????? " THANKING YOU IN ADVANCE, kind regards from Oz Jack Marashlian
+Mike Hand About a year ago I did a video on the Dust Deputy, and then a pair where I built the silencer cabinet for the shop vac. Bottom line is that some tools need the high air flow of a big dust collector (table saw, band saw, jointer/planer), and some are better off with the higher static pressure of a shop vac (mostly hand held power tools). So, they both sit there together in the corner.
thanks,matt. ive been wondering what type of bearings they put in there. if theyre thrust bearings, and even some styles of ball bearings, they should be ok.
Hey Matt. Would it be easier to have a bag in the barrel to make cleaning simpler? So all you would have to do is place the bag somehow below the tube outlet or put the whole bag from the top and cut a hole for the intake hose. So when it's full enough all you have to do is pull the bag out. Kind of like the old vacuums with bags.
Probably not, since the collector would suck the bag up into it. Vacuums with bags use the bag as a filter, running the air through it. There's no airflow through the drum, but it isn't completely air tight either.
Great video, Matt! I plan to build my dust collection system very similar to yours. I have a comment and a question to post to you. Comment: All your 110VAC outlets should be fed with #12 gauge wire and protected with 20 amp circuit breakers, with no exceptions. #14 gauge wire and 15 amp circuit breakers are for lighting only, (however using #12 gauge wire and 20 amp circuit breakers would be okay for your lighting circuits, it's just an overkill and a waste of good money. Question: Have you considered putting the latter half (fine dust collector/bag system) on the other side of the wall so that the particulates smaller than 5 microns would be exhausted outside, rather than in your shop? For that matter you could build a small addition on the outside, that would house the whole system, and quiet your shop down considerably! Sorry. Just thinking out loud...
I heard of a guy who uses a 20x20x1 furnace filter on a box fan to filer his shop air and says it does a fair job. Thought you might try something along that line for a paper filter if you have not already solved that problem.
Nice video....i just thought of something. Are those tiny particles positively or negatively charged? I wonder if a charged screen would grab those particles like a dyson air fan pulls in dust?
Hey matt. you have a great channel.. subscribed! I'm working on a thien baffle and got stuck on cutting out the hole for the intersecting pipe.. i might change my design to mimic yours.. hopefully ill have a build video up soon..its a great design!im glad i came across you channel.. thanks for the video..
Hey! Great video. I’m curious. I have a regular sized Dust Deputy set up with a Craftsman Shop Vac at the tail head and I’m trying to use a 50’ (2.5”) hose on a FastCap Super Reel. Obviously, the Craftsman cannot provide enough suction for the 50’ hose. If I got this Dust Collector and used a 4’ to 2.5” reducer would it work and provide adequate suction?
+Rob Brown I thought about that Rob. It would be nice for sure, and maybe necessary when I finally vent the collector outside. For now I just empty it when the dust starts blowing through and collecting in the plastic bag.
this is 5 years old.... wondering what everyone's opinion of the Harbor Freight dust collector motor... how has it held up long term for others..... I bought mine back in dec. 19 here it is july 20 and the motor went out. checked power through the switch.. all good. it was working one moment then total dead. hoping this is just a issue with my particular motor and hoping HF will come through with replacement. (in communica with them now)
I like your objective opinions of Harbor Freight equipment. I find some of there stuff to be very good for my applications and like most people, I consider some of their stuff to be junk. Thanks
HF has a mix of inexpensive and cheap. Inexpensive does the job you need at a low purchase price. Cheap breaks or wastes your time, and then you have to buy another one (or something better). I stay away from anything that requires good metallurgy. The (low-cost) metal alloys they use tend to be either soft or brittle. Avoid small drill bits, and replace any fasteners that need to be strong (I like Grade 8 nuts and bolts).
@@scottwillis5434 I agree. I'd never buy an anvil from Harbor Freight for that reason but inexpensive power tools and clamps. Well it's hard to pass up $3 clamps. Never seen to have enough.
@@ThePapabear2012 I tend to spend a bit more on clamps, ever since I tightened down a low-cost one and it went . That one went to the 'cheap' category.
I Here or read people complain about this harbor freight dust collector being cheap/made... well I bought a Jet dust collector and within 2 yrs the motor burnt out.... the motor cost as much as the whole system from H Freight.. nice set up.. that's what I am going to do with mine...
Wolf Pack, I have a old jet 6" jointer. My motor also burned out, so I learned a long time ago that some of this stuff is not better if it costs more. I just found a, like new, HF dust collector used for $100. I'm not expecting too much, but I'm curious how long it will last. I have a lot of HF tools, I have mixed feelings, but I think some of their things are definitely worth the money.
+JB Marker You're probably right. I keep putting it off because what I really want to do is vent it to the outside. Problem is replacing the heat that'll remove in a Western PA winter!
matt, have you ever considered spraying K&N air filter oil on the inside of that filter. it is statistically proven that oil impregnated fabric catches alot smaller particulate than non oiled fabric.
I had not ever considered that. I'm sure that you're right, and that it would catch finer particles. It also sounds like a big mess to empty/clean though, and this thing is already on the minimal side when it comes to airflow. Making the filter bag "tighter" without increasing the surface area would make it noticeably worse. All in all I think the best plan is to either replace the bag with Wynn paper filters or vent it outside if the fine dust is your primary concern.
Cyclone is not a minor effect. The major effect of chip separation is drop in velocity due to expansion. There will be a drop box whose cross-section is large enough so that the cyclone effect is very minor.
While you are right about expansion, cyclone has an equal effect. It creates a laminar airflow in which air shears in layers moving more slowly in contact with the can edge to more quickly away Caught in the shear, the particles tumble violently loosing velocity and getting dragged by the slower laminations into which they are pushed by centrifugal forces. Man, it's just a great big party of forces in there, isn't it? So cool!
+Matt Heere I've seen lots of people use it but your design is the most sophisticated I've seen with the HF. You make really good videos, idk how you don't have more subscribers yet. I'll def be watching from here on out.
Your design seems very efficient and I am in the processs of building one. I am trying to use the Pipe joint template using a 5 inch 30 gauge metal duct pipe (0.125 in thick) with a 20 in diameter barrel. I'm just not sure what angle to set. You state the duct is 90 degrees or is it some other value? Should be a lateral offset (should it be 10-2.5 = 7.5?). Thanks.
Thanks, that Pipe joint template worked great and was a big help in making the joint. What type of "epoxy/putty" did you use to fill the gaps? Do you know the brand? Thanks again.
Great video, very helpful. Are you able to run the DC and your table saw on the same 15amp breaker? Or, does the draw from the DC alone exceed 15 amps??
I had to put in a 20A circuit for the DC. It'll run on a 15A circuit, but it often pops the breaker on startup. No chance of running the DC on the same circuit as another tool.
Hi, nice setup!! What size is your barrel? I have one that is about 17.5" diameter that I'm wondering if it's big enough. I already have the HF Dust Collector, but haven't assembled it yet because I want to do a Thein separator and I like this design, simple and compact.
Just plugged in 90 degrees with 0 offset. Used 68.25" main pipe and 5" branch. The template I get looks nothing like yours. Shows a perfectly round hole for the drum and a straight line for the branch pipe.
+T W Weiland It's because I lied to you about the lateral offset. You want to use the maximum allowable value, not zero. Also, it wants the diameter of the pipes. I'm thinking your barrel isn't nearly 6 feet in diameter. That'd be a lot of dust!
+Matt Heere Just tried the increased offset. Works. You are right about the size of the drum. 68.5" is circumference. Hadn't calculated diameter. That's how errors occur. Thanks
Oh wow I've gotten lucky not popping the breaker then. I didn't even know it could use more than 15A. Might have to address that now before it becomes and issue later
Matt, I made a similar re-work of the HF dust collector, BUT I have a problem with the impeller scrapping against the housing cover. I think I can fix it by raising the impeller housing a bit. Will you tell me the height from the floor to the bolts in your wooden structure?
+Mark Hazlewood The lowest bolt, the one that attaches the actual impeller housing to the wall, is 40 3/4" from the floor. That give me 7 1/2" from the front of the housing to the lid of my separator. Subtract however tall the cart is (I forgot to measure it) and the rest is the barrel itself. Have you had the housing apart? If it's scraping on the back of the housing then yeah, you may just have everything crammed in to tightly. If it's scraping on the front of the housing then the impeller is most likely not securely on the motor shaft. That's something that needs to be remedied ASAP as you'll have a 2HP grenade going off if the impeller lets go completely.
Hello,. Question, I have a Delta that's similar to yours. I want to exhaust it through the wall. To do this can I simply remove the cloth filter bag, cover that hole with plywood, adapt a 5 or 6 inch pipe to the ply and send that through the wall? Thanks,
Yep. One thing to note is that even smaller dust collectors move a lot of air. If you're pumping it out - there has to be a way to get fresh air in or nothing will go anywhere.
I don't remember hearing you say what brand the dust collector is , Is it the same brand that they sell today at harbor freight. I have copd and really need something better than my shop vac for dust collection.
+Mitch Lennon Mine's a 30 gallon. I was going to go bigger but emptying this one creates about the heaviest garbage bag that I really want to deal with.
Hi Matt, thanks for this amazing solution. I have low ceilings in my basement and this will make dust collection possible. Quick questions: are you using a 5" pipe for the baffle inlet to improve suction, and would a 4" inlet decrease efficiency and require a height adjustment to the wooden piece inside of the baffle? Thanks!
+Arturo Vidich I used 5" as the inlet to the separator barrel because the dust collector motor has a 5" inlet, and I want to keep the inlet and outlet the same size. Stepping down the diameter of any pipe will restrict the flow somewhat, but you'll be transitioning to 4" pretty quickly anyway. Exactly where you make the switch probably makes little real world difference. The diameter of the inlet pipe doesn't affect where the Thein baffle needs to be directly. Rather it's where the bottom of the inlet pipe is. So a smaller inlet pipe could be mounted higher, requiring raising the baffle - or it could be mounted in exactly the same spot as the 5" pipe.
Hi Matt, another question has come up... is there a compelling reason to keep the inlet on the Thein baffle entering on an anti-clockwise tangent to the barrel, or could it work the same coming in at a clockwise tangent? The best place in my shop for my unit will have the inlet branching to the left rather than the right when looking at it. Thanks!
+Arturo Vidich The reason I did it is that it matches the direction of rotation of the impeller. Anti-clockwise is the "natural" direction of the cyclone, and trying to reverse it is going to cost you some suction. I don't know how much, but airflow isn't the strong suit of this setup to begin with, so I wasn't willing to risk it.
Matt, and community. Since I have respect for you and I understand the system YT uses, I mute ads, just as in my TV life, and do other things. I then hit like among those things. This has the effect of giving the poster full ad credit, and more money, and is not differentiated with muted/unmuted viewers. YT cannot also monitor my browser to watch which is live while the ad runs. If I come back, and you are more than 15 seconds into the presentation, I merely slide back to watch the entire thing. I also mute and leave, and run the video several times for most ads to play, while I do other things. As I say, this is not only for you, but as a habit. My views ad up, but I watch a given video once or twice. Thanks. BTW I appreciate your view on Harbor Freight, but remember, 80% of the stock has no moving parts, so the value and quality are directly related to price. My Harbor Freight hammer drives nails just fine. I painted a door, and the screws in the hardware moved just fine with HF screwdrivers.
Hey Matt I know it's been a while, but I was just looking at the Pipe Joint Software you linked here and I can't seem to figure out how you got the tear drop shape. What numbers did you use in the calculator and how did you figure out what to use?
Matt, I've got another question now that I'm starting to mimic your project. What spacing did you use between the container lid and the separator? Thanks!!!
+Mitch Lennon I just measured it. My container is 27 1/4" tall, and it's sitting on the original dust collector cart next to the bags. There is another 7 1/2" from the lid to the face of the impeller housing. The hose I have connecting the two is ~ 7 1/4" long. I didn't measure it, but I'm estimating that the pipe sticking out of the container lid is ~ 2" tall. If I recall correctly, the inlet on the impeller is similar, so there's something like 3-4" between the top of the container outlet and the impeller inlet.
Great video and subscribed to your channel. Probably getting a dust collector very soon and will in all likelihood get this one. One question though. Where did you purchase the cardboard barrel? It that also available at Harbor Freight?
Believe it or not - nothing. I still have on my to-do list to get a hose I can use to direct the exhaust out the window so I can bypass the inefficient filter bag when the weather is nice. Otherwise it's been working well. Now that I have a planer I do wish the barrel capacity was larger. The planer fills it up pretty fast.
you connect any hand tools... ie which have a 1.5" connection. going down from 4" to 2.5 (aka table saw's) is not to huge a jump... but 4" -> 1.5 is like night and day.
Question, on a Baffle system, does the baffle box need to keep a vacuum/seal with the drum below it, or can the bottom of the baffle just rest on the top of the drum ?
@@MattHeere thanks for confirming, figured it had to... :) you know of some online plans / or calculation define diameter, height and size of bottom baffle, seen allot of designs call for the opening to about 270deg.
I don't imagine it's drastically louder or quieter than any other unit which moves the same amount of air. The motor is very quiet, and any given combination of CFM +a particular pipe is going to be the same amount of noise regardless of what's driving it. Reality is that anything hooked up to the DC makes enough noise that I have hearing protection on anyway, so I never really thought about it.
The Harderwoods.com pipe joint template is awesome. Note that in their tool they say it won't print correctly using the Chrome browser. As of today 03/22/2021 the template I printed for a 20" barrel and 4" branch (with wall thickness .01") was dead on when I measured it using the scales that print on the template pages.
I've been designing my own HFT DC mods, and your video helps me validate that my own design is viable. Considering that you put this out almost 6 years ago, I imagine you've probably helped thousands of hobbyists like myself improve conditions in their shops. Thank you for the work you've done.
Love your comment on looking at a container of saw dust. Its as if a voice inside us is saying, “Behold what i have created!”. Nice video
Hi Matt, same here ran across your channel researching dust collection ideas. Has anyone ever said that you sound like one of those guys that do the product reviews for tools. Your pretty precise with your speech which makes it easy to listen to you. Great video Thanks !!!!!!!!
Being Australian I had to watch this standing on my head. Awesome video, great content...love your style. Subscribed.
I think the air run backwards as well . LOL
I found your site today (2-18-20). Very well done. I have viewed many videos on dust collectors & always had a few questions after. You provided those answers. Thanks!
Matt, I just now found this most informative video. I'm currently struggling to hook up my dust collection system and fighting the vagueness of air hose and tubing connectors. This video demonstrated beyond all doubt the effectiveness of this version of a fein dust extractor. I live the elegance of this system. You did a great job joining the duct to the drum. I looked at the pipe joint template site you provided and find it very interesting and useful. One suggestion for what it's worth, if I might: For this application, to cut the duct going into the drum, if you were to use PVC drain pipe, you could screw a short section of the drain pipe to the plywood you cut the fein device from; place the plywood with pipe connected on a circle cutting jig attached to your band saw and cut the circle. As your band saw cuts the plywood circle that will fit inside the drum, it will also cut the radius end on the PVC pipe. The useful piece will be outside the circle and the waste is inside. A circle cutting jig is simply a section of plywood with a nail or screw located a radius distance from the bandsaw blade and the workpiece has a small hole at the intended center of the circle to be cut. The future circle piece is placed on the nail or screw to be rotated. Turning it around against the blade cuts both pieces at once. The PVC radius end then also becomes a template to trace the outline to be cut from the drum. I never tried to cut metal tubing but PVC cuts easily as long as the piece of wood you use for a jig is stationary and does not flex to cause the blade to bind. A little ingenuity in crafting fixtures for slanted tubing allows this technique to be used in joining small PVC to large PVC.
Your video inspired me to go your route instead of the super dust deputy.
I just picked up a 2hp Grizzly Dust Collector for $50. Definitely a steal. Your setup is something I'm going to copy in my shop. Thanks for providing the link to the templates for cutting the inlet pipe and drum. I have a 55 gallon thick walled plastic barrel that I'm going to use and I should be able to have more room in it for the thien baffle.
Used, new?? I want in lol
I put an Oneida pleated filter on mine. Also noticed your Dust Deputy cyclon with what I assume is a shop vac in the box. After ex[erimenting a while I ended up with two Sears wall hanging vacumns in series to power mine. To keep down the noise I have a long about one square foot box on the exhauset with a lining and baffle system made from duct board used to fold insulated air ducts. That really cut down the noise.
I've seen what seems like a hundred or so cyclone/Thien separator videos and your has the two absolute best recommendations I've seen: the fiber barrel with lid (those things are perfect!), and the web calculator for the intersection shape. The rest of the information and the clear presentation are icing on the cake. Well done!
Re: templates... I love you! (The whole video was terrific, but the templates are a life-changing epiphany)
Hi Matt - Just ran across your channel while looking for info on this dust collector. Thanks for sharing this. Looks like you have lots of great videos that I can binge watch. Will share your channel with my friends. Nice work!
+Steve Carmichael Thanks Steve!
I saw this very same collector at harbor freight, and thought about doing a conversion similar to yours but with the final output passing through a Hepa grade filter
Adding a hepafilter is expensive, it would have to be very large in square feet for good airflow because of the huge pressure drop (air flow restriction) it has. Plus there expensive. In an application like your proposing I would add cheaper pre filters before the hepa filters cause heoas of that size are very expensive....
I don’t know where you live but the background through the windows is stunningly beautiful
Great overview of your system. I have 2 thien seperators on the go and planning a 3rd to go on a similar collector as yours.
Something to consider when you want to replace the bag, instead of paying the premium for a "woodworking" dust collector filter, look into an air filter for large trucks/heavy equipment. They will be a whole lot cheaper, and have similar specs to the ones marketed to woodworkers. You just have to make your own adapter ring for it to fit the collector, but I am sure you are more than capable of doing that.
I love the unit, but the current draw is pretty high at 110v. I decided to splurge and get a 220v version... for about 150 more.
AWESOME!!! I was given the 2 most important parts on a Grizzly 2HP unit, and just today ordered the missing pieces, and wanted to add a separator in the most compact way possible, and this is it!!! I have 15' ceilings so I think I'm going to mount the motor and impeller and filter unit as high up as I can get away with to save floor space. We shall see what happens. Thanks!
Most of the commercial systems put the pleated filter on the bottom and the bag or dump chute below it. The top of course would be blocked off.
As for the cyclone system it too was a separate drum and under it was a barrel on a drum dollie like the ones you get on the 55 gallon vacuum kits.
Matt - Thanks for sharing your insight on this! At first, I thought I'd just buy a new cyclone system but am now convinced to just go ahead and improve upon my existing 2 hp bag system!
Outstanding! Best setup I've seen yet. I purchased the same unit and am in the process of a build.
Nice video. I went down a rabbit hole reading overcomplicating articles and designs. I ended up buying a super dust deputy. Your design is simple and obviously works really well.
Be. Ice if you replaced the cloth with a wynn filter.
A nice explanation of the system and how it fits your needs. Thanks for putting it out there.
2:49 when that piece finally fell from the collector lid. I almost backed out of this video because of that piece hanging on. Ha ha! Very well done by the way!
Nice vid! I think I just found the design I'm going to copy. Just bought the HF dust collector, got a barrel and now realize I don't need the super dust deputy using your design so saved some $! Thx
I redesigned a squat multi stage 500mm X 500mm X 250 high WITH NO FILTER 99.9% chips to 4 micron. (Queensland University Electron Microscope tested) 125mm duct IN.OUT 2hp Too bulky, Expensive FILTER, in most cases less than mine collects Dust removal is the point of the exercise, Cheers
One good idea to add to your system i think. On the side of the collection barrell install a 1" site glass ( plexi glass ) strip from top to bottom so you can see when your barrell is full.
Thanks for sharing. I and my brother were just talking about hanging the very same unit in my shop. Your timing was great.
Subscribed!
That was a very well presented idea; clear, complete, unhurried. Plenty to replicate it. Thanks awfully.
Your point about the motor alone being worth the price is spot on. I've checked out many motors online and most, even 1/4 HP motors are over $100. Check out the many shop built tools people make and most require a motor. An example is the cheapo harbor freight belt sander/disc sander..It costs about $50, but the motor alone cost more than the entire sander. This leads me to the line of reasoning that if you need a new motor for various projects just go buy a harbor freight tool and strip out the motor and you'll probably be saving money over just buying a motor.
Well anyway, I'm going to get the dust collector from HF because my shop is becoming entombed in dust and has become a spider web playground. I might as well take up smoking fiberglass cigarettes. Now it's just a matter of saving up the scratch and getting the right coupon for HF.
martino amello, I've had a wood shop for over 25 years and finally last week found a, like new, HF dust collector for $100, now I wondering why it took me so long? Good luck to you.
Motors are not all the same. The load you put on it, motor design, bearing quality, how much copper in the windings, etc. will all affect the motor life.
Bigger copper wire means less heat - but copper costs, so count on the windings being a bit smaller than they should be for long life.
Let us know what tools have good motors in them!
Speaking as an old guy whose lungs are shot in part from breathing fine wood flour for 40 years I can tell you that the damage you inflict upon yourself never gets better only worse even after you use a HEPA filter.
Really good information there mate. Nice one. I’ve had a kity separator thing like yours for ages now as I’ve not known what to do with it. I got it super cheap from a yard sale.
As of now I actually have a clue what to do. Yippee !!
Thanks for the vid mukka. 😀🇬🇧👍🏻
Mister Heere, I really appreciate your videos. Plus, you are an outstanding communicator.
Great idea. By the way I used to work for a company that makes fibre drums and we were corrected if we called the barrels instead of drums.
11:35 It's super simple to change the 15 amp breaker to a 20 amp breaker and to put in a 20 amp electrical outlet. I really like the setup. I've seen others and they are overkill and this one is as simple as can be and looks to work flawlessly.
It's easy, but it's a terrible idea unless you plan to pull new wire as well. Code only allows for a 15A circuit on the wire I have. I have actually since run conduit around the shop for some 240VAC that I needed, and I did put in a proper 20A circuit for this.
SELF-RELIANCE and a STRONG COMMUNITY '
Run 20 Amps through a circuit wire for 15 Amps is a very bad idea, and a good way to eventually set your workshop on fire. 15 Amp circuits are run with 14 gauge wire (white Romex), 20 Amp circuits with 12 Gauge (Yellow Romex).
Subscribed. Have zero clue on how I haven't come across your channel yet. Good stuff.
+Theball Player Thanks! It's probably because I spend all my time in the shop and zero on channel promotion :)
Great video. As a thought....could you attach a large garbage bag to the bottom of the cyclone plywood (via tape, screws, clamps, etc) to catch dust/chips? Maybe it would make emptying the barrel easier by lifting the bag out? I'm sure some dust could get by and into the barrel but it would save dumping the barrel as often (if it works that is). I plan on getting a unit soon and will use your cyclone idea as well. Thanks for posting.
Excellent presentation.
"I will never understand what it is that makes us as woodworkers enjoy looking at sawdust in buckets and barrels, but here it is."
Oh, that's easy. If it's in the barrel, it's not all over the floor!
Great video. Subbed. I once used an old car radiator fan (powered by a battry charger), blocked into a window, to suck the air (and small particles) out of a room. Seemed to work well. No sign of dust out side and kept dust out of the rest of the house. =D I did have dust extraction on my table saw.... you can't chuck eveything out the window =D
Nice review and good points! Definitely like your thine collector and barrel. Would like to have heard it running and seen it working. Just to complete the review.
Nice review, thanks for the vid. Always wondered about that dust colector, it’s awfully tempting.
great video-- glad I saw this first...no I can seek out the other videos that will show me the physics of your modifications. But even now without them I can do trial and error to get that cyclone lid to work. thanks again.
You explained everything perfectly and never turned it on to show us how it ran. But thanks for the video.
We have that unit at work..... has its goods and bads. Not quite strong enough for what we use it for but it works
Matt Great video I hope to catch the rest of your stuff.
Hi Matt. Great video. I'm just about ready to pull the trigger on the 2 HP HF dust collector. One thing I'm curious about is why not duct the discharge of the blower directly outside versus into the limited 5 micron bag? You'd save a bunch of space in the shop and you'd eliminate all the particulates (even better than replacing the bag with a pleated 0.5 micron filter). Again, just looking for your opinion on the idea. Keep up the good work!
+dawgpoundbutch I've had that idea on my mind for a while. It's why I haven't pulled the trigger on an upgraded Wynn filter for the machine. Problem is that it's cold here in Western PA for at least 1/2 the year - and the 1/2 where I get the most shop time to boot. The dust collector will move pretty much all of the air in the shop outside in just a few minutes, and at the moment my only heat is portable kerosene. Not only does it take forever to replace that heat, but having to run it on full blast constantly becomes a fume issue.
But dust collection is now about my biggest problem (terrible workbench is a close second). The band saw really threw my hose scheme out the window. I need to get serious about coming up with some good ideas on how to fix this...
Subscribed. Glad I happened upon your channel. Lots of helpful advice. Nicely presented...Thanks!
Good vid. Simple and to the point. Think I might have to get the HF 2hp dust collector. Thanks for the info
"I will never understand what it is that makes us as woodworkers enjoy looking at sawdust in buckets and barrels, but here it is" < cue cheesy 70's porn music >
Great video-lots of info and very good explanation of the components you used. Thanks for posting!
Matt, Great video! I'm curious since there is so little dust that makes it out of the barrel and into the bag, why not just vent to the outside of your shop, think dryer vent.
Always been in the plans for an option, but the real issue is climate control. 3/4 of the year is heating season here in WPA, and the dust collector can take hours of heat out of the shop in minutes.
Hi I know you made this video some time ago, but I will be construction
something similar. I like to tap in to your experience, my question is.
when you mounted the motor with the rotor section with the suction hole
facing down motor shaft vertical... which is not what was designed for, "
DID YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEM WITH THE MOTOR SHAFT AS THE LOAD IS BEING ON
NORMAL ROLLER BEARINGS IN THE MOTOR , NORMALLY WILL BE TRUST BEARINGS TO
SUPPORT THE MOTOR SHAFT AND THE IMPALA HANGING FROM IT ????? " THANKING
YOU IN ADVANCE, kind regards from Oz Jack Marashlian
Another great video. Thoroughly explained.
I like your dust collector setup, but what about the smaller dust collector bucket you have to your right in the video?
+Mike Hand About a year ago I did a video on the Dust Deputy, and then a pair where I built the silencer cabinet for the shop vac.
Bottom line is that some tools need the high air flow of a big dust collector (table saw, band saw, jointer/planer), and some are better off with the higher static pressure of a shop vac (mostly hand held power tools). So, they both sit there together in the corner.
Oh OK. Thanks for the reply.
thanks,matt. ive been wondering what type of bearings they put in there. if theyre thrust bearings, and even some styles of ball bearings, they should be ok.
Hey Matt. Would it be easier to have a bag in the barrel to make cleaning simpler? So all you would have to do is place the bag somehow below the tube outlet or put the whole bag from the top and cut a hole for the intake hose. So when it's full enough all you have to do is pull the bag out. Kind of like the old vacuums with bags.
Probably not, since the collector would suck the bag up into it. Vacuums with bags use the bag as a filter, running the air through it. There's no airflow through the drum, but it isn't completely air tight either.
Matt Heere thanks for making that point. I didn't think of that.
Great video, Matt! I plan to build my dust collection system very similar to yours. I have a comment and a question to post to you.
Comment: All your 110VAC outlets should be fed with #12 gauge wire and protected with 20 amp circuit breakers, with no exceptions. #14 gauge wire and 15 amp circuit breakers are for lighting only, (however using #12 gauge wire and 20 amp circuit breakers would be okay for your lighting circuits, it's just an overkill and a waste of good money.
Question: Have you considered putting the latter half (fine dust collector/bag system) on the other side of the wall so that the particulates smaller than 5 microns would be exhausted outside, rather than in your shop?
For that matter you could build a small addition on the outside, that would house the whole system, and quiet your shop down considerably! Sorry. Just thinking out loud...
I heard of a guy who uses a 20x20x1 furnace filter on a box fan to filer his shop air and says it does a fair job. Thought you might try something along that line for a paper filter if you have not already solved that problem.
Hey Matt good info Thanks about all the good and bad from Harbor Freight.
The calculator you were referring to at minute 4:47, where did you find it? I’m setting up a system now and this seems to be efficient.
Nice video....i just thought of something. Are those tiny particles positively or negatively charged? I wonder if a charged screen would grab those particles like a dyson air fan pulls in dust?
Hey matt. you have a great channel.. subscribed! I'm working on a thien baffle and got stuck on cutting out the hole for the intersecting pipe.. i might change my design to mimic yours.. hopefully ill have a build video up soon..its a great design!im glad i came across you channel.. thanks for the video..
Hey! Great video. I’m curious. I have a regular sized Dust Deputy set up with a Craftsman Shop Vac at the tail head and I’m trying to use a 50’ (2.5”) hose on a FastCap Super Reel. Obviously, the Craftsman cannot provide enough suction for the 50’ hose. If I got this Dust Collector and used a 4’ to 2.5” reducer would it work and provide adequate suction?
Nice video. I'd like to suggest that you incorporate some plaxi Glass to the side of the barrel to see when it needs to be emptied.
Rob
+Rob Brown I thought about that Rob. It would be nice for sure, and maybe necessary when I finally vent the collector outside. For now I just empty it when the dust starts blowing through and collecting in the plastic bag.
this is 5 years old.... wondering what everyone's opinion of the Harbor Freight dust collector motor... how has it held up long term for others..... I bought mine back in dec. 19 here it is july 20 and the motor went out. checked power through the switch.. all good. it was working one moment then total dead. hoping this is just a issue with my particular motor and hoping HF will come through with replacement. (in communica with them now)
I like your objective opinions of Harbor Freight equipment. I find some of there stuff to be very good for my applications and like most people, I consider some of their stuff to be junk. Thanks
HF has a mix of inexpensive and cheap. Inexpensive does the job you need at a low purchase price. Cheap breaks or wastes your time, and then you have to buy another one (or something better).
I stay away from anything that requires good metallurgy. The (low-cost) metal alloys they use tend to be either soft or brittle. Avoid small drill bits, and replace any fasteners that need to be strong (I like Grade 8 nuts and bolts).
@@scottwillis5434 I agree. I'd never buy an anvil from Harbor Freight for that reason but inexpensive power tools and clamps. Well it's hard to pass up $3 clamps. Never seen to have enough.
@@ThePapabear2012 I tend to spend a bit more on clamps, ever since I tightened down a low-cost one and it went . That one went to the 'cheap' category.
I Here or read people complain about this harbor freight dust collector being cheap/made... well I bought a Jet dust collector and within 2 yrs the motor burnt out.... the motor cost as much as the whole system from H Freight.. nice set up.. that's what I am going to do with mine...
Wolf Pack, I have a old jet 6" jointer. My motor also burned out, so I learned a long time ago that some of this stuff is not better if it costs more. I just found a, like new, HF dust collector used for $100. I'm not expecting too much, but I'm curious how long it will last. I have a lot of HF tools, I have mixed feelings, but I think some of their things are definitely worth the money.
Let us know how long the HF lasts!
How you use it makes a big difference - load it down and the motor will get hot.
Great review and nice adaptation. Need to get you nice cartridge filter for that unit.
+JB Marker You're probably right. I keep putting it off because what I really want to do is vent it to the outside. Problem is replacing the heat that'll remove in a Western PA winter!
Have you considered discharging into a bucket of water to trap the transient dust?
I did briefly and then decided that it wasn't worth the effort. I will vent outdoors eventually. Might as well just work towards that end.
Where do you get those barrels? Also curious what epoxy you used! Great video!
Got it for $136 today. Presidents' Day sale priced at 169 plus 20% off. They also changed the color to grey.
This thing has gone up quite a bit. It's $230 now.
It fluctuates. It's down to $189 now which the lowest I've seen it. That's only about $150 before taxes with a 20% off coupon.
matt, have you ever considered spraying K&N air filter oil on the inside of that filter. it is statistically proven that oil impregnated fabric catches alot smaller particulate than non oiled fabric.
I had not ever considered that. I'm sure that you're right, and that it would catch finer particles. It also sounds like a big mess to empty/clean though, and this thing is already on the minimal side when it comes to airflow. Making the filter bag "tighter" without increasing the surface area would make it noticeably worse.
All in all I think the best plan is to either replace the bag with Wynn paper filters or vent it outside if the fine dust is your primary concern.
I can only imagine it would make quite a mess also. The bag is nasty to clean the way it is.
One other bit, I'm getting a kick out of the shop vac set up.
Great modification. video is easy to follow.
Cyclone is not a minor effect.
The major effect of chip separation is drop in velocity due to expansion. There will be a drop box whose cross-section is large enough so that the cyclone effect is very minor.
I mean cyclone is a minor effect.
While you are right about expansion, cyclone has an equal effect. It creates a laminar airflow in which air shears in layers moving more slowly in contact with the can edge to more quickly away Caught in the shear, the particles tumble violently loosing velocity and getting dragged by the slower laminations into which they are pushed by centrifugal forces.
Man, it's just a great big party of forces in there, isn't it? So cool!
I saw a video on here where someone compared a Thein to a cone, I thought it was interesting.
th-cam.com/video/HaTrY-O7l5E/w-d-xo.html
holy shit how have i not found your channel sooner... I must make this... I must
+Michael Meis (tubbz23) Yeah, this is a good one. That baffle is nothing short of amazing. Wish it was my idea!
+Matt Heere I've seen lots of people use it but your design is the most sophisticated I've seen with the HF. You make really good videos, idk how you don't have more subscribers yet. I'll def be watching from here on out.
Your design seems very efficient and I am in the processs of building one. I am trying to use the Pipe joint template using a 5 inch 30 gauge metal duct pipe (0.125 in thick) with a 20 in diameter barrel. I'm just not sure what angle to set. You state the duct is 90 degrees or is it some other value? Should be a lateral offset (should it be 10-2.5 = 7.5?). Thanks.
Correct. 90 degree angle and 7.5 offset.
Thanks, that Pipe joint template worked great and was a big help in making the joint. What type of "epoxy/putty" did you use to fill the gaps? Do you know the brand? Thanks again.
Simple. Elegant. Good.
Great video, very helpful. Are you able to run the DC and your table saw on the same 15amp breaker? Or, does the draw from the DC alone exceed 15 amps??
I had to put in a 20A circuit for the DC. It'll run on a 15A circuit, but it often pops the breaker on startup. No chance of running the DC on the same circuit as another tool.
Matt Heere thanks a million
Nice video! :) Would you mind elaborating where you got the barrel?
Nice vid Matt, where can I find the calculation for the port that enters the drum, yours is so neat. Thx
The link is in the description. Thanks for watching!
+Matt Heere Thx Matt.
Hi, nice setup!! What size is your barrel?
I have one that is about 17.5" diameter that I'm wondering if it's big enough. I already have the HF Dust Collector, but haven't assembled it yet because I want to do a Thein separator and I like this design, simple and compact.
Nice video. Can the motor be rewired to run on 220-240?
Hey Matt. Enjoying your channel. Curious about your cardboard drum set up. What angle did you use in the Pipe Joint Template? Thanks for the video.
+T W Weiland I used 90 degrees. The branch pipe comes straight out of the drum. I also used an offset of 0 so that the inlet is tangent to the drum.
Just plugged in 90 degrees with 0 offset. Used 68.25" main pipe and 5" branch. The template I get looks nothing like yours. Shows a perfectly round hole for the drum and a straight line for the branch pipe.
+T W Weiland It's because I lied to you about the lateral offset. You want to use the maximum allowable value, not zero. Also, it wants the diameter of the pipes. I'm thinking your barrel isn't nearly 6 feet in diameter. That'd be a lot of dust!
+Matt Heere Just tried the increased offset. Works. You are right about the size of the drum. 68.5" is circumference. Hadn't calculated diameter. That's how errors occur. Thanks
Oh wow I've gotten lucky not popping the breaker then. I didn't even know it could use more than 15A. Might have to address that now before it becomes and issue later
Matt, I made a similar re-work of the HF dust collector, BUT I have a problem with the impeller scrapping against the housing cover. I think I can fix it by raising the impeller housing a bit. Will you tell me the height from the floor to the bolts in your wooden structure?
+Mark Hazlewood The lowest bolt, the one that attaches the actual impeller housing to the wall, is 40 3/4" from the floor. That give me 7 1/2" from the front of the housing to the lid of my separator. Subtract however tall the cart is (I forgot to measure it) and the rest is the barrel itself.
Have you had the housing apart? If it's scraping on the back of the housing then yeah, you may just have everything crammed in to tightly. If it's scraping on the front of the housing then the impeller is most likely not securely on the motor shaft. That's something that needs to be remedied ASAP as you'll have a 2HP grenade going off if the impeller lets go completely.
Hello,. Question, I have a Delta that's similar to yours. I want to exhaust it through the wall. To do this can I simply remove the cloth filter bag, cover that hole with plywood, adapt a 5 or 6 inch pipe to the ply and send that through the wall?
Thanks,
Yep. One thing to note is that even smaller dust collectors move a lot of air. If you're pumping it out - there has to be a way to get fresh air in or nothing will go anywhere.
I don't remember hearing you say what brand the dust collector is , Is it the same brand that they sell today at harbor freight. I have copd and really need something better than my shop vac for dust collection.
Yep. It's the Harbor Freight 2HP model. I bought it quite a while ago so I can't speak to whether it's the same quality as back in the day.
Are you aware of hose reduction accessories for tools with smaller ports? Not all of my machines have 4" ports.
Great work!!! What's the gallon size of the Fiber Drum???
+Mitch Lennon Mine's a 30 gallon. I was going to go bigger but emptying this one creates about the heaviest garbage bag that I really want to deal with.
Hi Matt, thanks for this amazing solution. I have low ceilings in my basement and this will make dust collection possible. Quick questions: are you using a 5" pipe for the baffle inlet to improve suction, and would a 4" inlet decrease efficiency and require a height adjustment to the wooden piece inside of the baffle? Thanks!
+Arturo Vidich I used 5" as the inlet to the separator barrel because the dust collector motor has a 5" inlet, and I want to keep the inlet and outlet the same size. Stepping down the diameter of any pipe will restrict the flow somewhat, but you'll be transitioning to 4" pretty quickly anyway. Exactly where you make the switch probably makes little real world difference.
The diameter of the inlet pipe doesn't affect where the Thein baffle needs to be directly. Rather it's where the bottom of the inlet pipe is. So a smaller inlet pipe could be mounted higher, requiring raising the baffle - or it could be mounted in exactly the same spot as the 5" pipe.
+Matt Heere Thanks so much for the detailed and quick response. I might step down to 4" at the blast gate to save a little moolah. We'll see!
Hi Matt, another question has come up... is there a compelling reason to keep the inlet on the Thein baffle entering on an anti-clockwise tangent to the barrel, or could it work the same coming in at a clockwise tangent? The best place in my shop for my unit will have the inlet branching to the left rather than the right when looking at it. Thanks!
+Arturo Vidich The reason I did it is that it matches the direction of rotation of the impeller. Anti-clockwise is the "natural" direction of the cyclone, and trying to reverse it is going to cost you some suction. I don't know how much, but airflow isn't the strong suit of this setup to begin with, so I wasn't willing to risk it.
+Matt Heere Gotcha, thanks for everything!
Thank you for metic use!
Matt, and community. Since I have respect for you and I understand the system YT uses, I mute ads, just as in my TV life, and do other things. I then hit like among those things. This has the effect of giving the poster full ad credit, and more money, and is not differentiated with muted/unmuted viewers. YT cannot also monitor my browser to watch which is live while the ad runs. If I come back, and you are more than 15 seconds into the presentation, I merely slide back to watch the entire thing. I also mute and leave, and run the video several times for most ads to play, while I do other things. As I say, this is not only for you, but as a habit. My views ad up, but I watch a given video once or twice. Thanks. BTW I appreciate your view on Harbor Freight, but remember, 80% of the stock has no moving parts, so the value and quality are directly related to price. My Harbor Freight hammer drives nails just fine. I painted a door, and the screws in the hardware moved just fine with HF screwdrivers.
Hey Matt I know it's been a while, but I was just looking at the Pipe Joint Software you linked here and I can't seem to figure out how you got the tear drop shape. What numbers did you use in the calculator and how did you figure out what to use?
Matt, I've got another question now that I'm starting to mimic your project. What spacing did you use between the container lid and the separator? Thanks!!!
+Mitch Lennon I just measured it. My container is 27 1/4" tall, and it's sitting on the original dust collector cart next to the bags. There is another 7 1/2" from the lid to the face of the impeller housing. The hose I have connecting the two is ~ 7 1/4" long. I didn't measure it, but I'm estimating that the pipe sticking out of the container lid is ~ 2" tall. If I recall correctly, the inlet on the impeller is similar, so there's something like 3-4" between the top of the container outlet and the impeller inlet.
+Matt Heere Super!!! And the distance from the container lid downward to the Thien baff;le would be???
I'm recalling something like 8". The space above the baffle isn't a whole lot taller than the 5" inlet pipe.
You think l will work ok if is around 20 feet 4" hose within the dust collector and a table saw?
Nice job, Tex! and Hello from Pittsburgh
+MrVbcoach LOL! Looks like we go back quite a ways...
Great video and subscribed to your channel. Probably getting a dust collector very soon and will in all likelihood get this one. One question though. Where did you purchase the cardboard barrel? It that also available at Harbor Freight?
with 5 yrs on this setup now, what have you changed/improved since.
Believe it or not - nothing. I still have on my to-do list to get a hose I can use to direct the exhaust out the window so I can bypass the inefficient filter bag when the weather is nice. Otherwise it's been working well. Now that I have a planer I do wish the barrel capacity was larger. The planer fills it up pretty fast.
@@MattHeere My primary use is a planer/jointer... so want the bigger barrel, but also not to big otherwise gets difficult to man handle on my own.
you connect any hand tools... ie which have a 1.5" connection. going down from 4" to 2.5 (aka table saw's) is not to huge a jump... but 4" -> 1.5 is like night and day.
Question, on a Baffle system, does the baffle box need to keep a vacuum/seal with the drum below it, or can the bottom of the baffle just rest on the top of the drum ?
It needs to seal. Any air that leaks in around the lid takes away form the vacuum pulled at the machine.
@@MattHeere thanks for confirming, figured it had to... :)
you know of some online plans / or calculation define diameter, height and size of bottom baffle,
seen allot of designs call for the opening to about 270deg.
... prefer the idea of building a baffle that sits on top of my drum... well still need to find a drum, heheheh
@@georgelza like this? th-cam.com/video/1A1QIoXJVPc/w-d-xo.html
Do you know what website you used to printout your circle cutouts
What are your thoughts on noise level of the HF dust collector? Better or worse than comparable collectors?
I don't imagine it's drastically louder or quieter than any other unit which moves the same amount of air. The motor is very quiet, and any given combination of CFM +a particular pipe is going to be the same amount of noise regardless of what's driving it.
Reality is that anything hooked up to the DC makes enough noise that I have hearing protection on anyway, so I never really thought about it.
Your awesome and thanks for the information about templates
Where does one get a cardboard barrel?