FYI team, if you have the new PC9 with the pistol grip everything is the same except the rear takedown screw is on the top of the receiver right behind that last bit of rail. Had to flip up my rear sight to get at it. Overall great instruction. Thank you.
Thanks for this video. I have your main spring and intend to get this trigger as I like the shape better than "the competition's" design. Just a personal preference. Placing the assembled action back in the stock is "a bit" more complicated with the Chassis version but only a bit. **YOUR TK AMBIDEXTROUS SAFETY LEVER (replacement for the RUGER push button safety) is perhaps the greatest improvement in the ergonomics of this carbine. GENIUS! It's so good that one wonders why RUGER did not do it. Yah, it makes dropping the trigger group a bit more difficult but the extra minute or two is well worth it.
Wondering if this will work, or if they make one for the newly released 10mm carbine? Would like to pick one up, but I already know the factory trigger will not be to my liking. Ive been spoiled by timneys in my rifles and even a timney alpha Glock in my model 40 (also 10mm)
The product looks great, just like the one I bought off of you guys for my Mk III 22/45. The video is also very well done, up to par with every other TK instructional. The problem is that it seems that for this one you forgot that unfortunately people are stupid, and if you don't tell them to use loctite, they'll keep complaining about screws with free will traveling all over the accessory - with no regards to how many other resemblant products they might have used in the past, and secured with loctite. Anyway, adding this one to my to-buy list. Thanks a lot for the great video and product once again guys!
You're right, it's one of our "Twister" takedown knobs. We advertise them for the 10/22 but they fit in the PC Carbine as well. I think I mentioned it in the audio track for this video.
It's a stronger reset spring, you probably won't need it but make sure to check the written install instruction guide here: www.tandemkross.com/assets/images/Instructions/Ruger_PC_Carbine_Victory_Trigger_Installation_Instructions.pdf
Overall great demo, with clear, well-paced visuals and instruction. One mild criticism however: We came across an issue during install. We installed the overtravel screw, then moved onto the hammer re-insertion into the trigger group, and when testing the cocking hammer, and hammer release function test with the trigger, once cocked, the hammer would stick and not fire when trigger was pulled back. After multiple dis-asseblies/re-assemblies of the hammer and trigger shoe and overtravel pins, we concluded the overtravel pin wasn't sufficiently screwed into the trigger blade, the over-extrusion was causing obstruction, in other words. Anyway, screwed it farther in, re-assembled trigger group+ hammer, hammer finally cocked back, and flew forward on trigger pull. In short, if the hammer gets stuck in cocked mode, re-check your over-travel pin. Maybe can edit that into your vid. for others.
Most installs usually take a redo or back step until it looks like how Bill did it. Case in point, I purchased a charging handle for my TX22 competition. I watched Bill do it flawlessly so when I started to take back plate off it came too quickly before I could get my thumb in place…yup you guessed Zing the spring and pin went flying. The spring was easy to find as it’s good size but not the pin. I did the install in my living room so the pin could be anywhere no pin no bang bang lucky I found it just under the couch. Second try, got my thumb on it just about to lock in it slips off my thumb Zing off the pieces go. Found spring but no pin…looking looking great way to spend a Saturday night 😅 finally found behind the sofa… third time went slower finally locked in good to go. Bought a charging handle for my tx22 compact..moved to dining room smaller area just in case…got it on the first try. Great product love my tx22 compact
Hi Paul, If you put Loctite on your screws before screwing them in, or if you want something a little less permanent, clear nail polish on them after you screw them in, the screws won't walk out like that. Hope that helps!
An elongated trigger return spring is provided with the kit. This allows you to adjust trigger pull weight. If trigger pull feels too light or you are experiencing reset issues, please use the elongated spring in place of the original factory spring.
How about making a trigger for the Ruger carbine and the PC Charger that works like the Glock trigger. I’m left handed and that would be a God send as I have trouble with cross bolt safeties. This would add another level of safety to these guns and I don’t doubt even right handlers would appreciate it. I would buy a whole trigger group to get this. Please think about it. Thank you.
Try making a binary trigger to make the Ruger PC fully automatic and then you'll have something I will buy. As it is, the factory trigger is just fine.
I just installed mine a couple of weeks ago. I haven’t taken it to the range yet (Northern Minnesota winter conditions), but after reassembly the trigger does not reliably reset. About 25% of the time when I cock it, pull and hold the trigger and cycle the bolt, then release the trigger, the trigger does not reset. If I rap the side of the stock most of the time the trigger will reset. Any suggestions?
Hi Monte. This is an issue we've seen in a small percentage of PC Carbines since we started selling our trigger. We recently began shipping all our PC Carbine triggers with a stronger return spring that solves these reset issues. If you call or email our Customer Service department (603-369-7060 or customerservice@tandemkross.com), they can hook you up with a few so you have backups.
That was the "Twister" Take Down knob. It was designed for the 10/22 but it works with the PC Carbine too, with a caveat. It fits perfectly in the front screw hole with no issues. In the rear screw hole, it functions correctly, but due to the way the stock curves, the "Twister" will probably leave a small mark on the underside of the grip.
I have BX Trigger 10/22 parts on my Ruger PC carbine (trigger, disconnector/sear ,hammer and springs). Can I use this trigger instead. Would it fit and function.
Hi Jaime, we have an option on the product page that allows you to use this trigger with the BX trigger housing! You shouldn't have any issues, but we also offer product support and lifetime guarantee on all products if you bought the trigger kit and then had issues.
Just installed my trigger and honestly I like the stock one more... In my opinion it is nothing special and more heavier than stock because of the return spring. The only good thing is that you can adjust your overtravel for shorter reset. For 72 euro it doesn't worth it.
Installed it last night unfortunately the screw that would adjust the trigger play doesn't hold in place. As soon as you start using the trigger that it will start moving rearward until you will no longer be able to pullback the trigger. I have to take out it since you don't want to adjust that screw frequently. On the other hand it look cool and liked that it is flat. No change in trigger pull weight compared to stock.
If you haven't already, we recommend putting some blue locktite on the screws when installing them. This should help with any screws walking out when you're shooting. Let us know if you have any other questions - we'd be happy to connect you with our product tech support team!
On my screw setting, the screw protrudes out of the surface of the trigger. Might need to file or dremel a little bit to smoothen it. The trigger still looks cool so I am keeping it there.
Contact TandemKross about it. It's possible you were accidentally shipped an 8mm set screw instead of the required 6mm screw. That's what happened to me and when I contacted them about it they shipped the right screw. They are a great company and will make sure you're satisfied with your trigger.
@@rodjohnson1000 the screw sticks out a bit towards the finger is the problem after setting the desired pre-travel. Anyways I just took it, the looks is good enough
I have one in a Mk3 22/45. I don’t care for it. The way it’s machined left sharp edges. I modified the stock trigger by adding an over travel stop screw.
Hi - thanks for reaching out! This does not significantly reduce the pull weight, but the flat face of the trigger allows you to put your finger lower down on the trigger face, boosting leverage and offering a lighter feel. The design of the trigger takes the majority of pre-travel out, so it does decrease trigger travel. A post-travel adjustment screw is included in the kit. Hope this helps!
That's our "Twister" Titanium Takedown Knob. You can find it here: www.tandemkross.com/Twister-Titanium-Takedown-Knob-for-Ruger-1022_p_175.html It's designed for the Ruger 10/22, but it will (mostly) work in the PC Carbine. A word of warning, while it does screw into both takedown screw holes of the PC Carbine, due to the shape of the stock the knob will leave a little mark near the rear screw hole. If you don't want to mar the plastic on your stock I recommend not installing a "Twister" in the rear hole. It will work perfectly in the front hole though. Eventually we might make a takedown knob specifically designed for the PC Carbine that won't ding it up, but at this time we have no concrete plans for it.
VERY easy to install, short crisp pull, short audible reset! SWEET! Made my double taps a LOT tighter!
this video was so well done, made installation a complete breeze - thanks for being sensitive to the newbie and the trigger looks awesome
Upgraded my trigger with this, love it!!!!
Love to watch a true professional at work! Book marked this video in case I need to come back to it! Thanks!
FYI team, if you have the new PC9 with the pistol grip everything is the same except the rear takedown screw is on the top of the receiver right behind that last bit of rail. Had to flip up my rear sight to get at it. Overall great instruction. Thank you.
Thank you!! Just got a Ruger PC9. Just waiting till next month for pickup. Going to get allot of y’all’s goodies for it.
You will really enjoy them!
Completed the install great video well done. One question there was a small spring included in the package with the spring what it used for? Anyone?
Excellent job on redesigning the prototype! Looks like it should feel much better!
great video. You covered every single step perfectly. Thanks
Great turtorial! Alot better than other with the small details
Glad it was helpful!
Keelan they know what they are doing. Anything I've changed works better smoother cleaner!!
Thank you. Very easy to install. Great video.
Enjoy it, Ben!
Thank you 🎉🎉🎉
Good, clear and easy to follow instructions. The way all "hot to" videos should be.
Thanks so much for watching and for the positive feedback.
Thanks for this video. I have your main spring and intend to get this trigger as I like the shape better than "the competition's" design. Just a personal preference. Placing the assembled action back in the stock is "a bit" more complicated with the Chassis version but only a bit.
**YOUR TK AMBIDEXTROUS SAFETY LEVER (replacement for the RUGER push button safety) is perhaps the greatest improvement in the ergonomics of this carbine. GENIUS! It's so good that one wonders why RUGER did not do it. Yah, it makes dropping the trigger group a bit more difficult but the extra minute or two is well worth it.
Thank you so much!
Kinda cool I guess, but the stock one on my pc9 works flawlessly if you ask me..... and if anyone is thinking of buying one, do they are tons of fun
Thanks for the tutorial. It saved my backside when I dropped my trigger asm and it came apart. RY
Make mag adapters please
Loved the trigger its dope !
So glad to hear it! Thanks for the feedback.
So glad to hear it! Thanks for the feedback.
Excellent presentation, thank you.
Thank you!
Wondering if this will work, or if they make one for the newly released 10mm carbine? Would like to pick one up, but I already know the factory trigger will not be to my liking. Ive been spoiled by timneys in my rifles and even a timney alpha Glock in my model 40 (also 10mm)
If they make a 10mm, we are hoping they keep the same trigger system so it will be compatible! That would be VERY cool!
Thanks for such an informative step by step guide on how to replace this trigger! If I can do this (thanks to this video) then anybody can!
The product looks great, just like the one I bought off of you guys for my Mk III 22/45. The video is also very well done, up to par with every other TK instructional. The problem is that it seems that for this one you forgot that unfortunately people are stupid, and if you don't tell them to use loctite, they'll keep complaining about screws with free will traveling all over the accessory - with no regards to how many other resemblant products they might have used in the past, and secured with loctite.
Anyway, adding this one to my to-buy list. Thanks a lot for the great video and product once again guys!
Thanks for the feedback, Hans! And thanks for watching.
The forward take down screw is not the same one you used to disassemble the rifle.
You're right, it's one of our "Twister" takedown knobs. We advertise them for the 10/22 but they fit in the PC Carbine as well. I think I mentioned it in the audio track for this video.
what do you do with the extra spring that comes with the kit? Is that needed? Do you replace the reset spring with it?
It's a stronger reset spring, you probably won't need it but make sure to check the written install instruction guide here:
www.tandemkross.com/assets/images/Instructions/Ruger_PC_Carbine_Victory_Trigger_Installation_Instructions.pdf
There is a extra spring in the bag and for the love of god I don’t know where it goes 😭
Overall great demo, with clear, well-paced visuals and instruction. One mild criticism however: We came across an issue during install. We installed the overtravel screw, then moved onto the hammer re-insertion into the trigger group, and when testing the cocking hammer, and hammer release function test with the trigger, once cocked, the hammer would stick and not fire when trigger was pulled back. After multiple dis-asseblies/re-assemblies of the hammer and trigger shoe and overtravel pins, we concluded the overtravel pin wasn't sufficiently screwed into the trigger blade, the over-extrusion was causing obstruction, in other words. Anyway, screwed it farther in, re-assembled trigger group+ hammer, hammer finally cocked back, and flew forward on trigger pull. In short, if the hammer gets stuck in cocked mode, re-check your over-travel pin. Maybe can edit that into your vid. for others.
Thanks for the detailed feedback!
Most installs usually take a redo or back step until it looks like how Bill did it. Case in point, I purchased a charging handle for my TX22 competition. I watched Bill do it flawlessly so when I started to take back plate off it came too quickly before I could get my thumb in place…yup you guessed Zing the spring and pin went flying. The spring was easy to find as it’s good size but not the pin. I did the install in my living room so the pin could be anywhere no pin no bang bang lucky I found it just under the couch. Second try, got my thumb on it just about to lock in it slips off my thumb Zing off the pieces go. Found spring but no pin…looking looking great way to spend a Saturday night 😅 finally found behind the sofa… third time went slower finally locked in good to go. Bought a charging handle for my tx22 compact..moved to dining room smaller area just in case…got it on the first try. Great product love my tx22 compact
Nice!
Trigger works great!
My only complaint is the overtravel screw moves back from vibration and blocks the trigger movement. So, I leave it out!
Hi Paul,
If you put Loctite on your screws before screwing them in, or if you want something a little less permanent, clear nail polish on them after you screw them in, the screws won't walk out like that. Hope that helps!
Why do I have an extra spring? Seems to be an extended trigger return spring. Do I need an extended return spring?
An elongated trigger return spring is provided with the kit. This allows you to adjust trigger pull weight. If trigger pull feels too light or you are experiencing reset issues, please use the elongated spring in place of the original factory spring.
What amazes me it seems like everyone owns a Ruger PC carbine 😅
Is the Volquartsen HP action kit compatible with the PCC? Ideally I would use your trigger in combo with the VQ kit for a bit hen trigger job
How about making a trigger for the Ruger carbine and the PC Charger that works like the Glock trigger. I’m left handed and that would be a God send as I have trouble with cross bolt safeties. This would add another level of safety to these guns and I don’t doubt even right handlers would appreciate it. I would buy a whole trigger group to get this. Please think about it. Thank you.
Thanks for the suggestion! I'll send it along to the product development team.
Try making a binary trigger to make the Ruger PC fully automatic and then you'll have something I will buy. As it is, the factory trigger is just fine.
I just installed mine a couple of weeks ago. I haven’t taken it to the range yet (Northern Minnesota winter conditions), but after reassembly the trigger does not reliably reset. About 25% of the time when I cock it, pull and hold the trigger and cycle the bolt, then release the trigger, the trigger does not reset. If I rap the side of the stock most of the time the trigger will reset. Any suggestions?
Hi Monte. This is an issue we've seen in a small percentage of PC Carbines since we started selling our trigger. We recently began shipping all our PC Carbine triggers with a stronger return spring that solves these reset issues. If you call or email our Customer Service department (603-369-7060 or customerservice@tandemkross.com), they can hook you up with a few so you have backups.
@@TANDEMKROSS Thanks, I will call.
TANDEMKROSS I received the stronger return springs in today’s mail and installed one. Perfect. The trigger now resets properly every time. Thank you.
just finished my install. surprisingly easy, Id say even easier than a glock trigger install, and a LOT easier than the 10/22
What was that nob you put on there instead of the hex bolt?
That was the "Twister" Take Down knob. It was designed for the 10/22 but it works with the PC Carbine too, with a caveat. It fits perfectly in the front screw hole with no issues. In the rear screw hole, it functions correctly, but due to the way the stock curves, the "Twister" will probably leave a small mark on the underside of the grip.
@@TANDEMKROSS Got it thank you.
I have BX Trigger 10/22 parts on my Ruger PC carbine (trigger, disconnector/sear ,hammer and springs). Can I use this trigger instead. Would it fit and function.
Hi Jaime, we have an option on the product page that allows you to use this trigger with the BX trigger housing! You shouldn't have any issues, but we also offer product support and lifetime guarantee on all products if you bought the trigger kit and then had issues.
Where is this product made?
In America. I'm not sure which state exactly, we outsource some of our manufacturing to other machine shops in our region. But it is made in America.
@@TANDEMKROSS thank you very much. I just bought mine today.
Just installed my trigger and honestly I like the stock one more...
In my opinion it is nothing special and more heavier than stock because of the return spring. The only good thing is that you can adjust your overtravel for shorter reset.
For 72 euro it doesn't worth it.
Installed it last night unfortunately the screw that would adjust the trigger play doesn't hold in place. As soon as you start using the trigger that it will start moving rearward until you will no longer be able to pullback the trigger. I have to take out it since you don't want to adjust that screw frequently. On the other hand it look cool and liked that it is flat. No change in trigger pull weight compared to stock.
If you haven't already, we recommend putting some blue locktite on the screws when installing them. This should help with any screws walking out when you're shooting. Let us know if you have any other questions - we'd be happy to connect you with our product tech support team!
On my screw setting, the screw protrudes out of the surface of the trigger. Might need to file or dremel a little bit to smoothen it. The trigger still looks cool so I am keeping it there.
@@fokingking that screw is to adjust over travel.It is supposed to stick out back of trigger Set it where you want it,than blue loctite it.
Contact TandemKross about it. It's possible you were accidentally shipped an 8mm set screw instead of the required 6mm screw. That's what happened to me and when I contacted them about it they shipped the right screw. They are a great company and will make sure you're satisfied with your trigger.
@@rodjohnson1000 the screw sticks out a bit towards the finger is the problem after setting the desired pre-travel. Anyways I just took it, the looks is good enough
WHAT DID WE DO B4 WE COULD JUST WATCH A VIDEO 😂😂😂
I replaced the Receiver pins with new pins from your Company. Your pins have
I have one in a Mk3 22/45. I don’t care for it. The way it’s machined left sharp edges. I modified the stock trigger by adding an over travel stop screw.
Ball detent on the ends
$55 for red (black is $50) is too steep for a trigger that doesn’t do anything special. Good vid though
tro jansky - yep! Was thinking the same thing! $20-$25 seems appropriate!
Thanks for the video!
Does it decrease the trigger travel and weight? Also is the takedown screw on the front of the receiver a Tandemcross product?
Hi - thanks for reaching out! This does not significantly reduce the pull weight, but the flat face of the trigger allows you to put your finger lower down on the trigger face, boosting leverage and offering a lighter feel. The design of the trigger takes the majority of pre-travel out, so it does decrease trigger travel. A post-travel adjustment screw is included in the kit. Hope this helps!
Having never used this companies product, a demonstration of the original and new trigger pull would be better.
WHAO THERE BIG FELLA!! Your front take down is an aluminum colored thumb wheel. Where do I get one of those?
That's our "Twister" Titanium Takedown Knob. You can find it here: www.tandemkross.com/Twister-Titanium-Takedown-Knob-for-Ruger-1022_p_175.html
It's designed for the Ruger 10/22, but it will (mostly) work in the PC Carbine. A word of warning, while it does screw into both takedown screw holes of the PC Carbine, due to the shape of the stock the knob will leave a little mark near the rear screw hole. If you don't want to mar the plastic on your stock I recommend not installing a "Twister" in the rear hole. It will work perfectly in the front hole though.
Eventually we might make a takedown knob specifically designed for the PC Carbine that won't ding it up, but at this time we have no concrete plans for it.
Unless you are a competition shooter I'm not sure why you'd need to swap out the great stock trigger the PC9 has. Mine works flawlessly.
Can you please add a Paintball Electric Trigger?? I beg you. To me all cars and firearms are upgraded copies of 1800's Technology.
dislike for not dry firing it, how we supposed to know if any good