Another great-practical video . I have used a syringe in the past, and pre-loaded the system from the nipple (it just wasn't bleeding properly) . Also another user-tip of cable-tying the brake-lever over-night (compressed) and releasing next-day . Seems to relieve some micro-bubbles to give a firmer lever . I bought my last XV because no-one could fix the dragging-brakes and it was 'the-last-straw' for the owner who had a dozen other-bikes , so he sold to me . When I stripped them down , I found new-pistons and seals , but the pads showed angled-wear . This model (similar to your RH-J-model chain-drive) has a small screw at the inner-side top of the calyper , that has a smooth-extension, designed to guide the pads from the top (same profile/design as earlier XS650-pads) This screw had been 'forced' and was bent, pushing the pads 'out-of-True' and causing the problem . Further investigation showed that the pad-design was slightly-different also , resulting in the guide-holes needing slight-relieving with a small round-file . Working fine now, next improvement will be a 14mm master/brake to give a bit more 'bite' . Dave NZ
Thanks man 👍. Yep, it’s amazing how many bikes become non runners due to little things that were a result of bad maintenance or poorly fitting aftermarket parts. I’ve gotten several parts bikes that the motor was ruined on when the owner put the oil filter in backwards so that there was no oil flow ☹️. These front brake systems are fairly simple, but everything needs to be kept clean and with clean fluid (as well as all of the parts in good working order like you said ). I’m sure no one would ever expect their car or truck’s brake master to get full of nasty cud and still work, but most never pop the top on their bike’s master cylinder and check it until something goes wrong with the brakes, lol. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYsCheers Steve , I saw a comment somewhere about Virago 535 oil-filters fitted opposite to 750's etc. sure-enough they were right , it might have mixed a few-people up on the bigger-engines which at first-glance , you are inclined to fit in 'the-wrong-way' . Yep , many bikes seem to get parked-up for simple problems , Good luck for us though . Enjoy the last of your summer/autumn . Dave
Just bought a 1997 Virago 1100 this fall. Got it running, but have not rode it. Noticed the front wheel is almost locked up. Thanks to this video, I`m going to take care of it over winter!
👍. Yep, I usually try to do the repairs in the winter so I’ll be ready for the first pretty spring day as well. Hope the video helps some when you get ready to tackle the job 👍. All the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs I tried to tackle it today. My 1100 had dual calipers. The pistons are seized slightly. I sprayed them, but..how does a guy get them to come out? High compressed air?
thanks for this steve! my 86 XV1100 is seizing up on both calipers. replaced the master cylinder and did a flush but its still dragging. gonna give this a go. no leaking so im going to hope i dont need to grab a rebuild kit
Thanks man 👍. Yep, I’ve had several that the only issue was some buildup of crud on the piston preventing it from pulling back slightly to move away from the rotor. Removing the piston (or pistons) and giving them a buffing with the cloth buffing wheel and some buffing clay has done the trick. All the best ! Steve
Nice early Virago, 81/82? I have had two early 750's and currently have a 97 1100. I would have removed the caliper and fixed it off of the bike, but your way worked just as well. Here in the PNW, our brake fluid picks up a lot of moisture, so I drain and replace my fluid every year. I use a speed bleeder and it goes pretty fast. I also replaced my stock brake lines with Galfer stainless steel braided lines. The old stock ones were breaking down inside and turning the fluid dark. Sometimes those rubber lines start breaking down over time and can become like one way valves, causing the same problem your sticking piston did. Had it happen on my old truck some years back. Right side would not release until you opened the bleeder. The next application of the brakes made the right side drag again. Replaced the rubber lines and all was good again.Ride safe and keep the rubber down.
Hey man ! Yep, it’s an ‘81 xv750 👍. This is my stock bike (all except for the paint job). I have an ‘82 that I did a bobber on as it was in bad shape and I got it for parts, but decided enough was still there I could make a bike out of it, but the stock one rides much nicer for comfort for sure. I am due up to change the brake lines out as the brakes are a bit spongy from the old hose expanding now...might do that this year at the next brake flush. I think the 2nd Gens had a lot less problems and aren’t as grumpy, but it’s just something about these old Gen 1’s I find interesting, lol. All the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs Yea Steve, as much as I like this 1100, I looked for two years for a nice 81/82 750. I like the foot peg location better on the older gen ones. The 1100 has it between where normal pegs go and the forward sets. Just bad for my old feet to apply the rear brake very well. I have some thoughts about how to move them back a few inches to help that. I do love the low end torque of this 1100. I brought an 81 new in 81 and this was coming off a 73 Kawasaki, then several RD's, one of which I cafed and over hopped up for street riding. The rear tire only lasted 4 k miles on my 81 and I had Dunlop Elites put on and boy did they handle well. Living in Southern Calif. at the time and there was no shortage of canyon roads to carve and that 81 did very well. I even surprised a few of the early sport bikes and humbled them. Fell in love with Viragos that couple of years. Had superbike bars on it as it gave me more control. Had jardine slash side pipes for a while, but they dragged too soon in right hand corners, so the stock exhaust went back on. I don't ride that hard anymore, but I did put superbike bars on this 1100.
Hi Steve If I tighten my front axle nut up to the 77 ft pound spec the wheel does not want to turn. It will turn but it's tight. This is with the brake pads removed so I know the brakes aren't dragging. The bearing move freely with the wheel off and appear to be good. Any Ideas?
Hey man, yep, it should still spin freely with the bolt fully tightened. The nut should pinch the speedo gear’s spacer to the bearing on the left, then there should be a spacer between the bearings and then the other bearing is pinched by the bolt shoulder. If the bearings have been removed, they might not be all the way pushed into the spacer is one thought. It might also be that the Speedo’s tab is not in the notch in the hub also. The nut should be tightened before clamping the right side fork to the bolt...the little hole in the end is to stick a screwdriver into to tighten the nut so it doesn’t spin. If you don’t get it figured out, just let me know and I can check one of my bikes to see what might cause to wheel to get tight 👍
I loosened the pinch bolt and then tightened the axle nut and then tightened the pinch bolt and that did the trick. I don't why that sequence matters but it must. Thanks again.
@@jimhoyle8088 👍. Yep, the sequence does seem to make a difference for some reason…I think, if the clamp is pinched first, it won’t let the bolt shoulder pinch onto the bearing so the gap pushes sideways on the bearing when the nut is tightened. Glad you got it sorted out 👍
I didn’t drive it for a while and the front brakes didn’t release . My handle bars turned, throwing me into my riding lawnmower. I was only going about 5 mph . I broke my shoulder blade.
Yep, dragging front brakes can quickly lock and not release for sure…makes for a bad day went you don’t expect it or get into some gravel or low spot in a parking lot that collected up mud
@@StevesDIYs I will try you method , it’s a 83 midnight virago. After I broke my shoulder blade I parked it in my barn, then the barn collapsed. But I’m going to fix it back up . I just bought another one same thing but it’s a little different, maybe a XZ 750 midnight virago . I will do the same to the brakes on that one too. Great vid.
@@rodsjohnson831 , thanks man 👍. Yep, from my experience, when they totally lock up, it has been that the small return hole in the reservoir had gotten stopped up so it would not allow the pressure to bleed back into the reservoir when the brake lever was released. They still make rebuild kits for these old bikes for the brakes as well so finding parts is still pretty easy. Safe riding and all the best ! Steve
You were right , the reservoir was almost empty and full of crud. I used a pin to open the small hole up and now front brakes work again. They still squeal. But at least the work . Thank you!
Another great-practical video . I have used a syringe in the past, and pre-loaded the system from the nipple (it just wasn't bleeding properly) . Also another user-tip of cable-tying the brake-lever over-night (compressed) and releasing next-day . Seems to relieve some micro-bubbles to give a firmer lever . I bought my last XV because no-one could fix the dragging-brakes and it was 'the-last-straw' for the owner who had a dozen other-bikes , so he sold to me . When I stripped them down , I found new-pistons and seals , but the pads showed angled-wear . This model (similar to your RH-J-model chain-drive) has a small screw at the inner-side top of the calyper , that has a smooth-extension, designed to guide the pads from the top (same profile/design as earlier XS650-pads) This screw had been 'forced' and was bent, pushing the pads 'out-of-True' and causing the problem . Further investigation showed that the pad-design was slightly-different also , resulting in the guide-holes needing slight-relieving with a small round-file . Working fine now, next improvement will be a 14mm master/brake to give a bit more 'bite' . Dave NZ
Thanks man 👍. Yep, it’s amazing how many bikes become non runners due to little things that were a result of bad maintenance or poorly fitting aftermarket parts. I’ve gotten several parts bikes that the motor was ruined on when the owner put the oil filter in backwards so that there was no oil flow ☹️. These front brake systems are fairly simple, but everything needs to be kept clean and with clean fluid (as well as all of the parts in good working order like you said ). I’m sure no one would ever expect their car or truck’s brake master to get full of nasty cud and still work, but most never pop the top on their bike’s master cylinder and check it until something goes wrong with the brakes, lol. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYsCheers Steve , I saw a comment somewhere about Virago 535 oil-filters fitted opposite to 750's etc. sure-enough they were right , it might have mixed a few-people up on the bigger-engines which at first-glance , you are inclined to fit in 'the-wrong-way' . Yep , many bikes seem to get parked-up for simple problems , Good luck for us though . Enjoy the last of your summer/autumn . Dave
Just bought a 1997 Virago 1100 this fall. Got it running, but have not rode it. Noticed the front wheel is almost locked up. Thanks to this video, I`m going to take care of it over winter!
👍. Yep, I usually try to do the repairs in the winter so I’ll be ready for the first pretty spring day as well. Hope the video helps some when you get ready to tackle the job 👍. All the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs I tried to tackle it today. My 1100 had dual calipers. The pistons are seized slightly. I sprayed them, but..how does a guy get them to come out? High compressed air?
thanks for this steve!
my 86 XV1100 is seizing up on both calipers. replaced the master cylinder and did a flush but its still dragging. gonna give this a go.
no leaking so im going to hope i dont need to grab a rebuild kit
Thanks man 👍. Yep, I’ve had several that the only issue was some buildup of crud on the piston preventing it from pulling back slightly to move away from the rotor. Removing the piston (or pistons) and giving them a buffing with the cloth buffing wheel and some buffing clay has done the trick. All the best ! Steve
Nice early Virago, 81/82? I have had two early 750's and currently have a 97 1100. I would have removed the caliper and fixed it off of the bike, but your way worked just as well. Here in the PNW, our brake fluid picks up a lot of moisture, so I drain and replace my fluid every year. I use a speed bleeder and it goes pretty fast. I also replaced my stock brake lines with Galfer stainless steel braided lines. The old stock ones were breaking down inside and turning the fluid dark. Sometimes those rubber lines start breaking down over time and can become like one way valves, causing the same problem your sticking piston did. Had it happen on my old truck some years back. Right side would not release until you opened the bleeder. The next application of the brakes made the right side drag again. Replaced the rubber lines and all was good again.Ride safe and keep the rubber down.
Hey man ! Yep, it’s an ‘81 xv750 👍. This is my stock bike (all except for the paint job). I have an ‘82 that I did a bobber on as it was in bad shape and I got it for parts, but decided enough was still there I could make a bike out of it, but the stock one rides much nicer for comfort for sure. I am due up to change the brake lines out as the brakes are a bit spongy from the old hose expanding now...might do that this year at the next brake flush. I think the 2nd Gens had a lot less problems and aren’t as grumpy, but it’s just something about these old Gen 1’s I find interesting, lol. All the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs Yea Steve, as much as I like this 1100, I looked for two years for a nice 81/82 750. I like the foot peg location better on the older gen ones. The 1100 has it between where normal pegs go and the forward sets. Just bad for my old feet to apply the rear brake very well. I have some thoughts about how to move them back a few inches to help that. I do love the low end torque of this 1100. I brought an 81 new in 81 and this was coming off a 73 Kawasaki, then several RD's, one of which I cafed and over hopped up for street riding. The rear tire only lasted 4 k miles on my 81 and I had Dunlop Elites put on and boy did they handle well. Living in Southern Calif. at the time and there was no shortage of canyon roads to carve and that 81 did very well. I even surprised a few of the early sport bikes and humbled them. Fell in love with Viragos that couple of years. Had superbike bars on it as it gave me more control. Had jardine slash side pipes for a while, but they dragged too soon in right hand corners, so the stock exhaust went back on. I don't ride that hard anymore, but I did put superbike bars on this 1100.
One should always cover the tank with a towel or blanket to protect the tank.
Yep, brake fluid can take the gloss off of paint real quick for sure 👍
Hi Steve If I tighten my front axle nut up to the 77 ft pound spec the wheel does not want to turn. It will turn but it's tight. This is with the brake pads removed so I know the brakes aren't dragging. The bearing move freely with the wheel off and appear to be good. Any Ideas?
Hey man, yep, it should still spin freely with the bolt fully tightened. The nut should pinch the speedo gear’s spacer to the bearing on the left, then there should be a spacer between the bearings and then the other bearing is pinched by the bolt shoulder. If the bearings have been removed, they might not be all the way pushed into the spacer is one thought. It might also be that the Speedo’s tab is not in the notch in the hub also. The nut should be tightened before clamping the right side fork to the bolt...the little hole in the end is to stick a screwdriver into to tighten the nut so it doesn’t spin. If you don’t get it figured out, just let me know and I can check one of my bikes to see what might cause to wheel to get tight 👍
@@StevesDIYs Thanks Steve By the way the oil filter cover looks great.
I loosened the pinch bolt and then tightened the axle nut and then tightened the pinch bolt and that did the trick. I don't why that sequence matters but it must. Thanks again.
@@jimhoyle8088 👍. Yep, the sequence does seem to make a difference for some reason…I think, if the clamp is pinched first, it won’t let the bolt shoulder pinch onto the bearing so the gap pushes sideways on the bearing when the nut is tightened. Glad you got it sorted out 👍
@@jimhoyle8088 Thanks man ! Glad you like it 👍👍👍. All the best ! Steve
I didn’t drive it for a while and the front brakes didn’t release . My handle bars turned, throwing me into my riding lawnmower. I was only going about 5 mph . I broke my shoulder blade.
Yep, dragging front brakes can quickly lock and not release for sure…makes for a bad day went you don’t expect it or get into some gravel or low spot in a parking lot that collected up mud
@@StevesDIYs I will try you method , it’s a 83 midnight virago. After I broke my shoulder blade I parked it in my barn, then the barn collapsed. But I’m going to fix it back up . I just bought another one same thing but it’s a little different, maybe a XZ 750 midnight virago . I will do the same to the brakes on that one too. Great vid.
@@rodsjohnson831 , thanks man 👍. Yep, from my experience, when they totally lock up, it has been that the small return hole in the reservoir had gotten stopped up so it would not allow the pressure to bleed back into the reservoir when the brake lever was released. They still make rebuild kits for these old bikes for the brakes as well so finding parts is still pretty easy. Safe riding and all the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs thanks ! I’ll check that out 1rst!
You were right , the reservoir was almost empty and full of crud. I used a pin to open the small hole up and now front brakes work again. They still squeal. But at least the work . Thank you!