Hey, hope you could learn something new from this video! If you want to support this channel, maybe you want to become a member? :-) www.youtube.com/@ThePhlogPhotography/join or become a Patreon www.patreon.com/phlog
Very useful suggestions. I mostly do B&W film photography, and I scan the negatives and convert these using Negative Lab Pro. Through this I am very used to adjusting the contrast, brightness and tones in NLP. Now you show me these techniques for digital colour photos, in combination with the temp and tint sliders, I recognise a lot and it gives me inspiration to try such things for digital colour photos as well 🙂
Thank you for nice useful tips. I have one tip for you. When you want darkened sky by linear gradient but don't want affect trees, you can intersect gradient mask with sky selection ;)
Thank you for the comment! What you have described is the best and cleanest way to do it! I just got a bit lazy and reduced the blacks since the tree doesn't have much blacks at the very top, so it would not get noticably darker :-)
Christian, Thank you for your wonderful presentation of white balance in snowy view! Your white balance approaches the beautiful effect on the trees and sky, in which you help me a lot to understand how a white winter can be seen in a different way!
Wow, that is a gorgeous photo Christan! One I wish I had taken myself. Another very informative and very educational video. I have been watching your videos for a good while, and I have learned a lot from you. Keep up the good work, I always look forward to your new videos coming out.
Exactly just my workflow, except the white balance part! Thank you for educating me! I was hope you take the contrast down a little bit..and yes, you just did it! My anxiety calmed down :D
Amazing image, beautiful scene. The end result of your editing is superb. Your method of instruction is perfect. Always learn a lot from you. Thanks for posting.
Thank you Christian for useful video and file that I could test it. It really worked perfectly in LR and also in ACDSee. By the way I found 4 small points in the photo, probably there is some dust on your lens.
Thank you, I really learned a lot from this, it's a different way of thinking to mine :) What surprised me, and what I must question, is why you didn't simply just use the White Balance Tool (W) to white balance an area of the snow - which is most of the foreground. I tried that, and it gave me a colour Temp of 11,250 and Tint -2. Perhaps a little too much warm adjustment added, with a slight yellow bias. Interestingly, it also moved the colours in the Histogram closer together, similarly to the corrections you applied. I then applied your other adjustments step-by-step to my 'W' white balanced image but didn't quite get exactly the same results. TBH I didn't spend enough time on it to find where the big difference was, but it would be interesting to read what you would have done differently if you had started with the White Balance Tool. I guess it just boils down to just different ways of doing the same thing :)
Hey, thanks for commenting! Using the white balance tool is totally fine, I use it quite a lot as well. What I have shown here in this video is just a more "manual" approach. You can get precise results both ways, in the end it comes down to which method you prefer personally
Brilliant results! I have been struggling post-processing this exact kind of scene, wondering why the "belt of Venus" is not coming through. Off to revisit some recent edits, thank you!
Thanks for your easy to understand approach to setting white balance. Would you also use this approach for a photo where the subject has white elements in a colored background? Also, how do you determine how much color grading to do?
Thank you! I use this method most of the times, because it works for me in 90% of the cases. If it doesn't work I try the auto setting or just eyeballing the sliders :-) I usually create several version of an image with different levels of color grading applied. In the end I decide which vversion I like the best
A little constructive criticism, While I liked this tutorial, I felt like it was a follow along and not teaching the WHY. For example, why not click the eye dropper instead of manually matching the RGB in the histogram? Is it bad, or incorrect. Why lower the exposure only to bring up the whites instead the other way around. I've been doing this many years and know why myself, but I also remember how frustrating it used to be following tutorials that didn't teach the why. I'd end up learning something but finding out there was a much better way of doing things by playing around or from other sources. I'm only taking the time to comment now because I feel you have great potential as a teacher. All the best my friend.
@@maggnet4829 Exposure moves everything down equally, by moving it down first you can get the shadows and overall exposure how you like, then you can see how much room you can move the white up before it overexposes. If you move the whites up first it will likely over expose and you won't be able to see what you're doing, if you moved the exposure 2nd you'd only have to repeat moving the whites since you may have more room to play. Think of it like boosting whites is adding salt, and setting exposure is tasting it to see how much salt is needed.
@@DynastyUK Thanks for taking the time to explain. I guess I'll have to tinker around with that to fully grasp it. I rarely use expose at all, usually I adjust images using the other means. Sounds like a good plan however to pull the exposure of your main subject first roughly where you want it and then adjust the rest.
@@maggnet4829 No worries, it does depend on the shot itself, and how much you have underexposed when taking the photo in the first place. for photo the general rule is to protect the highlights (unless it's blown out in real life, like the sun), so if you take a snowwy image to slightly under expose to get the detail of the white snow. 100% Trial and error, keep playing and experimenting, it's always the best way. :)
@@DynastyUK Yes, I'm adjusting the exposure accordingly. I'm just treating the raws different afterwards. I only use exposure if the image is severely over- or under-exposed.
Interesting process I have never seen before. On another note, I shoot some infrared, as part of the initial edit, I use the eye dropper tool, select a neutral area of the image and adjust the white balance. I did the same thing on your image and got pretty close on the first attempt. Ever do something like that?
Hey Christian: I am very proficient with LR but I learned a few new things from you, so thanks!. Question though: I don't understand your rationale for the sharpening step you always do in the end. It creates images that are too punchy. I think of the sharpening in LR as an "input sharpening", and the output sharpening can go on top of this depending of whether the outpout is online or print.
Hey, thank you for the comment! I love super sharp looking photos, so my approach might be a bit over the top, but for online usage, I really like how it looks
Hi Chris... Let me take this opportunity to say that you are doing an excellent job.. And have improved HUMONGOUSLY in your presentation with no dipp in your Knowledge in this field. Have downloaded many videos for future references. OK here my query is that while setting up the WB as per your video, I fail to wonder what happens when there are two peaks in the RGB. which one do have to manoeuvre or just eye ball it accordingly.. TIA.. Appreciate
Thank you so much for the kind comment! In my experience, as you try to align those peaks you get a natural result, it doesnt matter much where on the histogram they meet. Keep in mind there could be extreme cases where this method might not work (think of strange indoor lighting or suuuuuper vibrant sunsets)
Hi, Thank you very much for your video. In your opinion, can you use this technique for all photo taken in every hours of the day? (sunrise, sunset, etc), Tx
From my observation, aligning the RGB peaks doesn’t always work, if one colour is very dominant in one of the either shadows, mid-tones or highlights. I was editing an image taken whilst hiking, and the image had a lot the sky showing. The sky was predominantly blue as it was decently clear day. So blues will dominated the highlights on the histogram - and trying to align the peaks created a massively yellow hue across the image (too warm). So I instead focused on making sure the Red and Green peaks were within 1% of each other, and ignored the blue peak. So how would you better apply this rule/suggestion when trying to get the prefect WB? Seems like in the end, it comes down to using your own visual judgment. One thing that someone told me, is to place your mouse on something that is meant to be white, and then make the histogram adjustments that way. By placing your mouse on that white item, you will then see the histogram values for that area - and then simply try and make sure the values are within 1% of each other.
Thank you for the comment! There are cases where this method doesnt work, thats true. Especially with big areas where there isnt much color (like a big blue sky). Still, you could try aligning the red and green peaks while slightly getting the blue peak in line. In the end doing it this way always comes down to your own visual judgment. Now If you want a truly accurate WB (which sometimes just doesnt look good!) You want to use the White Balance selector and click with it on a neutral area (where R, G and B values are eqaul, greys are a great spot for that)
I see where your histogram displays only the three color channels. Mine had a white or light gray overlay over the three channels, making it difficult to see how the colors are aligning. Is there a setting in Lightroom to remove that overlay? Thanks!
Hey, thanks for pointing this out! To be honest, I have no clue. I think this was due to a recent Lightroom update? I just checked the settings and couldn't find anything to bring back the white luminance curve in the Histogram :(
Hey Simon, das ist tatsächlich eine gute Frage, ich glaube das wurde irgendwann mit einem der letzten Updates automatisch gemacht? Ich habe gerade geschaut und versucht das Histogramm anzupassen, konnte dazu aber nichts finden
@@ThePhlogPhotography Ja so ging es mir auch. Deinen Workflow kannte ich und nutze ihn auch. Zur WB Einstellung geht das sehr schön schnell, aber mich stört immer die weiße Kurve, welche die Farben überlagert. Und ich bekommen sie einfach nicht ausgeblendet. Auf welcher Version arbeitest Du denn in Lightroom?
Thanks, this is very helpful for landscapes, as I shoot mostly people and am usually focused on skin tones. I have 1 question though: why did you use the calibration slider at the end - ie, what does this provide that the individual colors section doesn’t?
Thanks a lot for commenting! The sliders in the calibration panel do affect the colors of the image a little differently. Its kind of hard to explain: while the blue slider in the HSL mixer ONLY adjusts blue, the blue slider in the calibration tab changed EVERY Color with a bit of blue in it. In the end, I just like how this looks and i like adding this as the last color grading steps for my images. but thats just a personal preference
In addition, you can hold down ALT while doing to see the effect. It adjusts the contrast on the edges of whatsoever getting sharpened. Use it to your liking. For example, for architecture building, you might want a harder edge vs tree branches, where a softer edge might be preferred.
great question! Bringing down the radius reduces the pixels around an edge that get sharpened. So while bringin up the raidus makes the sharpening very obvious and ugly, low radius gives us very fine detail!
Thanks for commenting! I guess I would approach it the same way. If this would not work I might try the white balance tool and see if the eye dropper can do it or even the auto white balance
Interesting approach, but this only works if the scene is predominantly white (or a neutral grey), and often snow reflects the sky so it should be blueish. Of course, it all depends upon if you want the colour to be "accurate" or an artistic interpretation.
@ThePhlogPhotography I noticed it happening with more than one light source (can as well be if one part is illuminated by direct light and another one by indirect light). I fixed it in the end by treating each part differently, with a mask. It's time-consuming, though.
So what comes to your mind when you are decreasing the exposure and increasing the whites? Wouldn’t it be the same just to decrease the blacks ? I sometimes don’t get the reason for tweaking around some sliders …:(
Sorry for that, I try to get better at explaining those things! When I bring down the exposure, EVERYTHING will become darker: the bright parts as well as the dark parts. The contrast doenst change much this way. Now when I'm lowering the blacks, we make the photo darker by targeting the darkest parts, the highlights wont be affected, thus we're adding contrast. Bringing up the whites makes the snow brighter, it gives us contrast as well, but the contrast is added by making the image brighter, not darker. I hope this makes a bit more sense now :-)
Oh I dont know, it usually takes some time to get one photo right. I could maybe do 2 or 3 but doing more would end up making the editing worse I guess
Thats a viable way as well. I did it this way to have the most control over the white balance, carefully working my way to a neutral white balance to find a good spot with some slight blue / magenta color cast left. In the end it comes down to what you personally prefer
I really like your videos, but the blip sound whenever you highlight something is incredibly annoying. I cannot remember it in your other videos - please don’t do it!
Hey, hope you could learn something new from this video!
If you want to support this channel, maybe you want to become a member? :-)
www.youtube.com/@ThePhlogPhotography/join
or become a Patreon
www.patreon.com/phlog
Thanks for this reminder. Just got back into doing more photography and this method makes WB so much easier
This was actually a useful tip, and it wasn't buried in 10 min intros and shilling useless crap.
Thanks mate - I mean that!
I'm happy you found this video helpful, thank you so much!
Danke für diese Instruktion.Endlich hab ich kapiert,wie colourgrading per histogram funktioniert
This is probably the best video that I have seen on setting white balance! Well done!!
Another excellent tutorial,Christian.Thank you.
You explained white balance in a way that a beginner can understand. Thank you!
Very happy to hear that, thank you!
Perfect tutorial, thank you💯
Very useful suggestions. I mostly do B&W film photography, and I scan the negatives and convert these using Negative Lab Pro. Through this I am very used to adjusting the contrast, brightness and tones in NLP. Now you show me these techniques for digital colour photos, in combination with the temp and tint sliders, I recognise a lot and it gives me inspiration to try such things for digital colour photos as well 🙂
Love seeing new ideas as to how to edit a photo. this one opens up a whole new perspective for me. Thank you.
Short, sweet, and to the point. Nice explanation.
Another excellent video. I always learn something new. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
great tips, I learned to adjust white balance on my snow photos with lots of blue into more white tones using the histogram as you did.
Thank you for nice useful tips. I have one tip for you. When you want darkened sky by linear gradient but don't want affect trees, you can intersect gradient mask with sky selection ;)
Thank you for the comment! What you have described is the best and cleanest way to do it! I just got a bit lazy and reduced the blacks since the tree doesn't have much blacks at the very top, so it would not get noticably darker :-)
This is great. Never considered using the histogram in LR or PS to help with WB. Thank you for sharing this awesome video!
Thanks Christian. It's amazing how well you can explain this!
I have learned so much in such a short time.
I'm very happy to hear that, thank you so much!
So many great tips in sucha short video. Amazing. Thank you!
Thank you ❤❤ always a pleasure to watch your rest videos!
Thank you so much!
Creativity IS Learning and you make this easy! I so admire your work. With love from Atlanta.
Thank you so much, that means a lot to me!
Christian, Thank you for your wonderful presentation of white balance in snowy view! Your white balance approaches the beautiful effect on the trees and sky, in which you help me a lot to understand how a white winter can be seen in a different way!
That is great to hear, thanks a lot for commenting!
Wow, that is a gorgeous photo Christan! One I wish I had taken myself. Another very informative and very educational video. I have been watching your videos for a good while, and I have learned a lot from you. Keep up the good work, I always look forward to your new videos coming out.
Thank you so much for the kind comment!
Klasse Christian. Den WB Trick kannte ich noch nicht. Vielen Dank für dieses Video👍
Excellent video on Editing White Balance!!! Thanks Christian.
Wow, phenomenonal information! Thank you!
Tack!
Thank you so much for all the support!
Good job Christian!!
Great video, I like your style of edit and showing us. Do make more of theses :)
Amaizing editing technique !
Well done Christian! Another fantastic video. Very interesting use of histogram to define the white balance. Excellent shot.
Thank you so much!
Histogram in LR is a very helpful tool. Thanks for the demonstration.
thanks again for this new video and especially for the tip about temperature correction.
Great video as always Christian and some very useful tips
Thank you very much! I saw a lot of useful nuances.
I’ve been using this white balance technique for a couple of year now but have not seen anyone else demonstrate it. Except video.
Gorgeous image!
What a perfect timing! Thank you Christian❤❤ was struggling with that a few hours ago
thank you! I ll try to implement this ❤👍👍
Beautiful, I love the easy-to-use approach of your style when playing with colors.
Tyvm, I have been learning a lot with your tutorials.
Very happy to hear that, thank you!
Exactly just my workflow, except the white balance part! Thank you for educating me! I was hope you take the contrast down a little bit..and yes, you just did it! My anxiety calmed down :D
That’s very good and very simple. Thank you
Wonderful edit....and I learned techniques i did not know 👍👍👍
Happy to hear that, hope it will help you in the future! :-)
Danke Shoen. Sehr Gut tutorial !!!!!!
Ich danke dir!
Thank you my friend, very very helpful, and even more clear. Great power of a simple explication, excellent tutorial indeed
Another great tutorial!
Thanks a lot!
Thanks man, I learned something new
Deine Tutorials sind mit Abstand die besten auf TH-cam 👌👌👌
Danke für das Lob! Freut mich sehr wenn dir meine Videos gefallen!
@@ThePhlogPhotography absolut hochwertiger Content hab viel von dir gelernt danke dafür👌👌👌
Awesome guide thanks 😊
겨울 풍경의 화이트 밸런스 조정을 색다른 관점으로 배운거 같습니다. 좋은 교육 영상 감사 드립니다.
Amazing image, beautiful scene. The end result of your editing is superb. Your method of instruction is perfect. Always learn a lot from you. Thanks for posting.
Thank you so much for the kind comment!
beautiful beautiful beautiful and beautiful!! Christian than you so much!!!!!!
Perfect work done !!!
Great video, plus beautiful photo.
Great work! Thank you for the presentation.
That was fantastic! Thank you…. Subscribed on that alone!
What an excellent technique!! Very informative❤
Thank you!
Thank you Christian for useful video and file that I could test it. It really worked perfectly in LR and also in ACDSee. By the way I found 4 small points in the photo, probably there is some dust on your lens.
Thank you for the kind comment! Those were indeed sensor spots, I got a lot fo them since I rarely clean my camera haha
Excellent tutorial, thank you
Amazing, thanks for this 🙏🙏
Great tip. Thank you for sharing 💪🏽
Thank you, I really learned a lot from this, it's a different way of thinking to mine :) What surprised me, and what I must question, is why you didn't simply just use the White Balance Tool (W) to white balance an area of the snow - which is most of the foreground. I tried that, and it gave me a colour Temp of 11,250 and Tint -2. Perhaps a little too much warm adjustment added, with a slight yellow bias. Interestingly, it also moved the colours in the Histogram closer together, similarly to the corrections you applied. I then applied your other adjustments step-by-step to my 'W' white balanced image but didn't quite get exactly the same results. TBH I didn't spend enough time on it to find where the big difference was, but it would be interesting to read what you would have done differently if you had started with the White Balance Tool. I guess it just boils down to just different ways of doing the same thing :)
Hey, thanks for commenting! Using the white balance tool is totally fine, I use it quite a lot as well. What I have shown here in this video is just a more "manual" approach. You can get precise results both ways, in the end it comes down to which method you prefer personally
Well I must admit that since watching this video, I'm starting to use your Histogram method more than the W method! @@ThePhlogPhotography
Great result!!!
Maravilloso !!!!! Perfect !!!!! Many thanks !!!
Very helpful, thank you
Great Video!
Thank you!
I follow your editing religiously as I am big fan of CR . Excellent capture Christian, where abouts is the scene?
Thank you so much! This was shot in southern Germany :-)
Brilliant results! I have been struggling post-processing this exact kind of scene, wondering why the "belt of Venus" is not coming through. Off to revisit some recent edits, thank you!
Very happy to hear that, thank you!
Thanks for your easy to understand approach to setting white balance. Would you also use this approach for a photo where the subject has white elements in a colored background?
Also, how do you determine how much color grading to do?
Thank you!
I use this method most of the times, because it works for me in 90% of the cases. If it doesn't work I try the auto setting or just eyeballing the sliders :-)
I usually create several version of an image with different levels of color grading applied. In the end I decide which vversion I like the best
Thank you!
A little constructive criticism, While I liked this tutorial, I felt like it was a follow along and not teaching the WHY. For example, why not click the eye dropper instead of manually matching the RGB in the histogram? Is it bad, or incorrect. Why lower the exposure only to bring up the whites instead the other way around. I've been doing this many years and know why myself, but I also remember how frustrating it used to be following tutorials that didn't teach the why. I'd end up learning something but finding out there was a much better way of doing things by playing around or from other sources. I'm only taking the time to comment now because I feel you have great potential as a teacher. All the best my friend.
Can you do us the service to explain why to lower the exposure and then the whites?
@@maggnet4829 Exposure moves everything down equally, by moving it down first you can get the shadows and overall exposure how you like, then you can see how much room you can move the white up before it overexposes. If you move the whites up first it will likely over expose and you won't be able to see what you're doing, if you moved the exposure 2nd you'd only have to repeat moving the whites since you may have more room to play.
Think of it like boosting whites is adding salt, and setting exposure is tasting it to see how much salt is needed.
@@DynastyUK Thanks for taking the time to explain. I guess I'll have to tinker around with that to fully grasp it. I rarely use expose at all, usually I adjust images using the other means. Sounds like a good plan however to pull the exposure of your main subject first roughly where you want it and then adjust the rest.
@@maggnet4829 No worries, it does depend on the shot itself, and how much you have underexposed when taking the photo in the first place. for photo the general rule is to protect the highlights (unless it's blown out in real life, like the sun), so if you take a snowwy image to slightly under expose to get the detail of the white snow.
100% Trial and error, keep playing and experimenting, it's always the best way. :)
@@DynastyUK Yes, I'm adjusting the exposure accordingly. I'm just treating the raws different afterwards. I only use exposure if the image is severely over- or under-exposed.
I think You made a nice job of that image
Thank you!
Interesting process I have never seen before. On another note, I shoot some infrared, as part of the initial edit, I use the eye dropper tool, select a neutral area of the image and adjust the white balance. I did the same thing on your image and got pretty close on the first attempt. Ever do something like that?
Thanks for your comment! Using the eyedropper like that is the inteded purpose :-) I personally just like doing it differently
This is such a freaking nice photo though
Thank you so much!
Very useful
Gracias
Hey Christian: I am very proficient with LR but I learned a few new things from you, so thanks!. Question though: I don't understand your rationale for the sharpening step you always do in the end. It creates images that are too punchy. I think of the sharpening in LR as an "input sharpening", and the output sharpening can go on top of this depending of whether the outpout is online or print.
Hey, thank you for the comment! I love super sharp looking photos, so my approach might be a bit over the top, but for online usage, I really like how it looks
Amazing!
Hi Chris... Let me take this opportunity to say that you are doing an excellent job.. And have improved HUMONGOUSLY in your presentation with no dipp in your Knowledge in this field. Have downloaded many videos for future references. OK here my query is that while setting up the WB as per your video, I fail to wonder what happens when there are two peaks in the RGB. which one do have to manoeuvre or just eye ball it accordingly.. TIA.. Appreciate
Thank you so much for the kind comment!
In my experience, as you try to align those peaks you get a natural result, it doesnt matter much where on the histogram they meet. Keep in mind there could be extreme cases where this method might not work (think of strange indoor lighting or suuuuuper vibrant sunsets)
@@ThePhlogPhotography much appreciated... Keep it coming Chris and Educate us better 👍👍👍
Hi, Thank you very much for your video. In your opinion, can you use this technique for all photo taken in every hours of the day? (sunrise, sunset, etc), Tx
Hey, I think this works most of the times, but I also remember photos where this method wasn't really working that well
From my observation, aligning the RGB peaks doesn’t always work, if one colour is very dominant in one of the either shadows, mid-tones or highlights. I was editing an image taken whilst hiking, and the image had a lot the sky showing. The sky was predominantly blue as it was decently clear day. So blues will dominated the highlights on the histogram - and trying to align the peaks created a massively yellow hue across the image (too warm). So I instead focused on making sure the Red and Green peaks were within 1% of each other, and ignored the blue peak.
So how would you better apply this rule/suggestion when trying to get the prefect WB? Seems like in the end, it comes down to using your own visual judgment.
One thing that someone told me, is to place your mouse on something that is meant to be white, and then make the histogram adjustments that way. By placing your mouse on that white item, you will then see the histogram values for that area - and then simply try and make sure the values are within 1% of each other.
Thank you for the comment!
There are cases where this method doesnt work, thats true. Especially with big areas where there isnt much color (like a big blue sky). Still, you could try aligning the red and green peaks while slightly getting the blue peak in line. In the end doing it this way always comes down to your own visual judgment.
Now If you want a truly accurate WB (which sometimes just doesnt look good!) You want to use the White Balance selector and click with it on a neutral area (where R, G and B values are eqaul, greys are a great spot for that)
I see where your histogram displays only the three color channels. Mine had a white or light gray overlay over the three channels, making it difficult to see how the colors are aligning. Is there a setting in Lightroom to remove that overlay? Thanks!
Hey, thanks for pointing this out! To be honest, I have no clue. I think this was due to a recent Lightroom update? I just checked the settings and couldn't find anything to bring back the white luminance curve in the Histogram :(
Hi Christian,
wie hast Du im Histogram den Luminance Wert ausgeblendet bekommen? Der überlagert ansonsten die Farben. Dank Dir
Hey Simon, das ist tatsächlich eine gute Frage, ich glaube das wurde irgendwann mit einem der letzten Updates automatisch gemacht? Ich habe gerade geschaut und versucht das Histogramm anzupassen, konnte dazu aber nichts finden
@@ThePhlogPhotography
Ja so ging es mir auch. Deinen Workflow kannte ich und nutze ihn auch. Zur WB Einstellung geht das sehr schön schnell, aber mich stört immer die weiße Kurve, welche die Farben überlagert. Und ich bekommen sie einfach nicht ausgeblendet. Auf welcher Version arbeitest Du denn in Lightroom?
Geiler Tipp!
Danke dir!
Thanks, this is very helpful for landscapes, as I shoot mostly people and am usually focused on skin tones. I have 1 question though: why did you use the calibration slider at the end - ie, what does this provide that the individual colors section doesn’t?
Thanks a lot for commenting! The sliders in the calibration panel do affect the colors of the image a little differently. Its kind of hard to explain: while the blue slider in the HSL mixer ONLY adjusts blue, the blue slider in the calibration tab changed EVERY Color with a bit of blue in it. In the end, I just like how this looks and i like adding this as the last color grading steps for my images. but thats just a personal preference
@@ThePhlogPhotography Oh thanks for replying! I’ll give it a try with the calibration tool.
Do you always do the sharpening like that? Full detail, minimise radius?
Yes, I always apply the same sharpening settings, I just play around with masking and the amount of sharpening depeding on the image
@@ThePhlogPhotography thanks for letting me know!
Do you have a video on it? I just tried it and got weird results lol!@@ThePhlogPhotography
Is there any rule around "sharpness radius". Is there any universal rule on why would I want to bring it back to zero?
The radius slider all the way to the left means not zero but 0.5
In addition, you can hold down ALT while doing to see the effect. It adjusts the contrast on the edges of whatsoever getting sharpened. Use it to your liking. For example, for architecture building, you might want a harder edge vs tree branches, where a softer edge might be preferred.
great question! Bringing down the radius reduces the pixels around an edge that get sharpened. So while bringin up the raidus makes the sharpening very obvious and ugly, low radius gives us very fine detail!
Thanks! How would you apply this technique to an image that has very little white or mid-grey?
Thanks for commenting! I guess I would approach it the same way. If this would not work I might try the white balance tool and see if the eye dropper can do it or even the auto white balance
It´s a fantasy!!!
you can use scroll wheel to adjust sliders - just click on them and scroll up/down - no need to drag the sliders :)
Ha, didnt know that, thanks for pointing this out!
Interesting approach, but this only works if the scene is predominantly white (or a neutral grey), and often snow reflects the sky so it should be blueish. Of course, it all depends upon if you want the colour to be "accurate" or an artistic interpretation.
What do you do if there are several peaks and if you aligne one the other one separates?
Hmm, that would be strange, I dont think I ever encountered that. If that would happen, I'd try fixing in via HSL
@ThePhlogPhotography I noticed it happening with more than one light source (can as well be if one part is illuminated by direct light and another one by indirect light).
I fixed it in the end by treating each part differently, with a mask. It's time-consuming, though.
So what comes to your mind when you are decreasing the exposure and increasing the whites? Wouldn’t it be the same just to decrease the blacks ? I sometimes don’t get the reason for tweaking around some sliders …:(
Sorry for that, I try to get better at explaining those things!
When I bring down the exposure, EVERYTHING will become darker: the bright parts as well as the dark parts. The contrast doenst change much this way. Now when I'm lowering the blacks, we make the photo darker by targeting the darkest parts, the highlights wont be affected, thus we're adding contrast.
Bringing up the whites makes the snow brighter, it gives us contrast as well, but the contrast is added by making the image brighter, not darker. I hope this makes a bit more sense now :-)
How many photos could you edit/day in this way?
Oh I dont know, it usually takes some time to get one photo right. I could maybe do 2 or 3 but doing more would end up making the editing worse I guess
With a white scene like this why wouldn’t you use the sample white balance tool to start and then do manual adjustments?
Thats a viable way as well. I did it this way to have the most control over the white balance, carefully working my way to a neutral white balance to find a good spot with some slight blue / magenta color cast left. In the end it comes down to what you personally prefer
We love more Affinity than Adobe products
👍👍👍
Next time show me how to do it in automatic mode
I really like your videos, but the blip sound whenever you highlight something is incredibly annoying. I cannot remember it in your other videos - please don’t do it!
Excellent tutorial. Thanks.
Very informative. Thank you
Thanks, very informative