Seems when the electronics world started using SMDs they also switched from full part identifications on the parts, to only a few letters or numbers. So locating datasheets gets to be a real problem sometimes. And if you can't see what the part does, it gets even harder to fix things as well. Knowing what parts are sure makes it tons easier to see what a circuit is supposed to do. And than you can locate the problem a lot easier... Thumbs Up for this fix...
Thanks Gary 👍 I think it's actually becoming worse, as now more and more resistors haven't got any marking at all, so you have no idea if it's reading the correct value unless you have the schematic, which is also becoming more and more unavailable 😢
I can relate to that Gary. We recently purchased a CELESTRON Digital Microscope off Ebay, NOT WORKING. The offending chips are both 5 pin SMD devices. Their markings reveal nothing on any chip identification websites. Plus there are NO circuit diagrams on the internet to determine what these parts REALLY do. Why don't Chinese manufacturers stop being so damn childish, and print the right information on their parts, instead of mindless garbage?
Having received the unit all in pieces and wrong component installed on the mother board is ten times the work of troubleshooting. But you did good. You have to be a good detective in order to fix such a nightmare. 👍👍👍👍
Very hard with someone fumbling around inside before you got it on your bench. However, with that said a spectacular work around on the voltage regulator. Great stuff my friend.
i love how much preparation (or common sense) the seller did. having the screws lay out like that with an arrow is just too amazing to see. i would have expected after seeing the scope in parts in the ebay listing it would be just a big bag of parts and lose ends
Yes, agree. Although I didn't realise that they were in the placement layout until editing the video. The top down view of the camera makes it quite obvious, and I didn't really notice when looking across it on my bench 😂😂😂
We used to use very similar ones of these (not identical) in a big cinema chain in the north east beginning with C... Used to use it go scan a dark cinema screen to see if anyone was recording - had so many complaints as people used to think we were recording them
Can I ask you your personal opinion about this device ?? Would you recommend this or other one eyepiece for hunting or security of ones farm ??? Look forward to your recommendation Sir. Good day too. @@BuyitFixit
Sorry, I wouldn't really know I've limited knowledge in this area. I don't think I'd recommend this unit as I've got a night vision rifle scope (Pard NV008P) and it's way better than this one. This is more like a cheap toy compared but it's better than nothing. I've got a Hikvision security system here for our farm, which has 8 x day / night IP cameras recording 24/7 one of which is a pan / tilt / 24x zoom Sunba camera which is compatible with the system (also day and night) and handy for scanning around the fields to see where the animals are. Hope that helps.
I found when looking for where the power feed is, I find what pins are VCC on IC's then follow it back to the battery or power supply, works every time. To find out what an IC that is missing or not legible or have several applications for the same marking. I look up the Data Sheets then compare the components around it that are connected. The reason this works is because some manufactures actually put test schematics or application schematics for that IC in the Data Sheets. Most end manufactures just simply copy those schematics with a slight variation right into their circuits. So if you compare what's on the board to what's in the schematic you can almost always find out what the unknown IC is. Of course you have to have an idea what you think that IC is doing in order to go look for those types of IC's. I find fixing consumer electronics is the ultimate Puzzle Solving Game. Right next to drawing schematics by Reverse Engineering circuit boards with no schematics available to the public. Good job and thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Nice work Mick. Now you can shoot some clays in the dark from your porch! This one seemed like it was a bit more of a challenge but that methodical & logical mindset is serving you well. I'd like to say it develops with age but I've working on my methodical and logical approach for 50 years so far and I'm lagging behind you already. I don't think I would have solved this one if I'm being honest. But maybe I will going forward, thanks you to. I do have one question though, because I am keen to learn and understand. The regulator that you removed (or that should have been there from factory), I understood from the pinout's you mentioned that there was a voltage 'pass-through' from one pin straight to another pin, is that correct? If so, you're cunning solution didn't appear to cater for the 'pass-through' and if that's true, it leads me to this question. What is the point of the pass through and why did you're fix still work? In your opinion. Or have I completely misunderstood? I'm a big boy, you can give it to me straight up.
Thanks 👍😂😂😂. The regulator that should have been there has the pin at the bottom left (1) marked "Enable" and the pin at top right (4) "Voltage IN", so linking these pins together makes sense. The pin on the regulator fitted (the wrong one LP2985) pin 1 is "V in" and pin 4 is labelled "bypass" it's for a capacitor to reduce noise according to the data sheet and a 10nf is recommended and then connected to GND. So on my fix I used a linear regulator which isn't as efficient, but uses 3 wires, IN, GND and Output. If you search BL8028 it will show you the pinouts of a regulator same as what should have been there, and LP2985 will show the regulator that was wrongly fitted. Hope that helps 🙂👍
I love the logical approach you take with these repairs, it's like OK I don't have one of those regulators so I've fabricobbled, AKA McGuivered, together something from some stuff I have lying around, hotmelt glued it into place and soldered some wires onto the main board. Outstanding!!! We need far more of your kind in this shit-show of a world we find ourselves in. Keep up the great work.
Thanks GeneralDisarray, I've done this kind of stuff all my life, where I've needed something and just used or fabricated something to do the job (electrical and mechanical stuff). I was repairing my car last year and I needed some "spring compressors". I had some threaded bar and some nuts so i welded 2 nuts together, drilled the threads out of them so they slid one the threaded bar, and welded another nut which was cut in half to the side of the other two to form a hook, did this 4 times and then added a nut and washer at each end.. home made spring compressor :) and then I repaired the car...
@@BuyitFixit I may not be in the same league, but I'm the same. The momentary PCB printed switches for my front and rear fog lights were becoming hit and miss, in fact the front fog switch wouldn't work at all. I took out the switch cluster, cleaned the contacts, which only helped slightly. I traced out the connections on the board, which has around 12 switches on it, and decided to drill two 12mm holes and mount two nice flush stainless momentary buttons on the panel, a few wires for grounds and the switch contacts, plus a bit of hot melt glue and Tesa tape and I have proper momentary switches for the fogs front and rear. I'm thinking of adding a few more switches labelled "Oil Slick", "Ejector Seat", etc, just to mess with the MOT guys...🤣🤣🤣
Richtek RT8024 seems to have the necessary pinout too but there are a bunch of different version with different feedback voltages so it might be necessary to check resistor network there.
Nice fix but you did have me shouting at the screen regarding the screws in the polystyrene, especially when you did the jump cut to them all on the mat- it showed the position of each screw for the case and the arrow was the orientation! But good job on the diag and fix.
Thanks! I did eventually spot the pattern of the screws on the white foam when I was editing the video and thought hmm I wonder if those were the positions of the screws 😂😂😂 they were pretty much all the same size anyway but it was a clever idea, and something that I hadn't thought of. Thanks for the feedback 👍
Our mate Vince & Steztix Steve will be watching your videos for tips from now on Another very astute fix John. I like your style and mini bodge that WORKED . HALLELUJAH !
Yeah,that's why i mentioned him. Just watched his vid on the Amazon Returns joblot. That Kodak Scanza is a interesting fix . I wont spoil it in case you haven't watched it yet. Good luck.
i always look forward to seeing your video on a Sunday morning and i like the way you explain your repair's i have told a couple of my friends to subscribe to your channel as they like watching things like this the same as me thank you have a great weekend
Being from the other side of the pond I had to look up Geordie. I can only guess how it sounds. I missed how you knew, or guessed, the regulator should be 3.3 volts.
I can't remember if it was just a guess or if I searched the main IC. If 3V didn't work, then I would have probably gone with 5V. Best off starting low 😉
Totally agree Voe, I even looked on a few sites I know, that are usually good with SMD identification numbers and no luck. Well at least I know what a few different types of trains look like now 😂😂😂😂
I have but my workshop isn't nothing fancy. I think I did a little bit of it on the Amazon returns video? When testing a camera..Hmm it was one of my videos anyway if not that one 😂😂😂
There's one singular seller on taobao(mainland china's aliexpress) that sells GP7 series chips(from GP7A to GP7Z). The listing lists them as buck converters. Did ask if they know what make and model those chips are, and the answer is unknown. Would be interesting if I can ask them to mail you some....
Thanks 👍 yes the cat was meowing at the door LOL. I think one of them made a visit when I was doing the 1UP arcade cabinet and appears in the video 😂😂😂
Not a bad little monocular. I have an eyeclops night vision goggles and they work but the eyepiece is too narrow for my eyes because this thing is a toy so I removed the eyepiece and it's set up the same as your unit, nothing but an LCD screen and modified camera. It doesn't record video but I'm curious if there's a way to add in a composite video out to it.
Depends on the main chip. This unit seems based on a trail cam perhaps as that was one of the things that popped up when I was searching for the number of the main SOC. If you know what chip is in your unit, try searching for that perhaps you might find a datasheet or a device using it that supports composite output.
@@BuyitFixit I had it apart a few times but not enough to see anything on the chips as they are kind of buried. I dont want to break this thing just to add a video out.
I have a digital recorder with a faulty regulator as well. I thought I could wire up a 3 legged regulator as you did, with a connection for ground, power in and power out, but there is no connection for the on/off switch?
Yes, the circuit in this one the power seemed to be switched separately from the regular. Some of the switching regulators do have an enable or on/off pin. You could use a 3 pin regulator temporary in that case or even connect a manual on off switch. Might be worth seeing if you can obtain the correct part or a similar substitute.
Been a subscriber for a while, i find the videos very interesting, although myself not too good with electronics 😢 I have an interesting and expensive paint thickness meter used once and no longer works 😢 Is it something that would be of interest
I bought it ages ago mate, I think from Ebay. Sometimes people also have a clear out so you might get lucky there if you are having trouble finding some.
Never use NiMH. On four alkaline batteries (1.5 x 4) you get 6 volts, but with NiMH you only get 4.8 volts (1.2v x 4). Some devices think 4.8 volts indicates low voltage and won't power on.
Yes a few people have mentioned the same when I said VFD display, although if I just said VFD that could also be variable frequency drive. I think saying VF display or LC display sounds a little odd 😂😂😂
I used to mess with stuff when I was a kid lights batteries etc and then computers. Ended up working in amusement arcades back in the day and a lot was self taught and what I picked up from other people too. I knew a guy that used to work for Marconi Radar systems (probably the cleverest guy I've ever known) and he taught me a lot when I was a kid, including programming which was on a nascom2 computer that he built from a kit back in 1979.
You are lucky this was not a true NVD. Most of their power supplies are sealed, non repairable units with zero information available to the general public.
I used to fix those. Sadly you are right about most being not economic to fix. Usually the tube is shorted out, but I did luck out on some with bad capacitors or diodes that drove the NV tube, others had issues with the MCP voltage causing the tube to light up completely green.
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Don’t know how I randomly stumbled upon a channel where a geordie fixes random things, but I like it! Got yourself a new subscriber here!
Thanks Dave 👍
Wonderful repair, with great deductive reasoning! Well done
Thanks Dave 👍
Seems when the electronics world started using SMDs they also switched from full part identifications on the parts, to only a few letters or numbers. So locating datasheets gets to be a real problem sometimes. And if you can't see what the part does, it gets even harder to fix things as well. Knowing what parts are sure makes it tons easier to see what a circuit is supposed to do. And than you can locate the problem a lot easier... Thumbs Up for this fix...
Thanks Gary 👍 I think it's actually becoming worse, as now more and more resistors haven't got any marking at all, so you have no idea if it's reading the correct value unless you have the schematic, which is also becoming more and more unavailable 😢
Yup harder and harder
Companies don't want people easily rectifying their built in obsolescence, that's my guess 👍
@Charlie_Crown That could well be the case 👍
I can relate to that Gary. We recently purchased a CELESTRON Digital Microscope off Ebay, NOT WORKING. The offending chips are both 5 pin SMD devices. Their markings reveal nothing on any chip identification websites. Plus there are NO circuit diagrams on the internet to determine what these parts REALLY do.
Why don't Chinese manufacturers stop being so damn childish, and print the right information on their parts, instead of mindless garbage?
Excellent diagnostics think the regulator being wrong would have really thrown me, top repair. Enjoyed that thanks.
Thanks John 👍
Having received the unit all in pieces and wrong component installed on the mother board is ten times the work of troubleshooting. But you did good. You have to be a good detective in order to fix such a nightmare. 👍👍👍👍
Thanks 👍yes, perhaps I'm Sherlock Holmes's long lost cousin 😂😂
Great work & video. Thank You..
Thanks 👍
Now you just need the other half, the launch tube containing the Javelin missile :) Cool trick adding an off board 3v reg. :)
Thanks 😂😂😂😂
Very hard with someone fumbling around inside before you got it on your bench. However, with that said a spectacular work around on the voltage regulator. Great stuff my friend.
Thanks 👍🙂
Great forensic and modification work 😃 Thanks Mick.
Thanks Mike🙂
i love how much preparation (or common sense) the seller did. having the screws lay out like that with an arrow is just too amazing to see. i would have expected after seeing the scope in parts in the ebay listing it would be just a big bag of parts and lose ends
Yes, agree. Although I didn't realise that they were in the placement layout until editing the video. The top down view of the camera makes it quite obvious, and I didn't really notice when looking across it on my bench 😂😂😂
The screws in the Styrofoam are in the shape of the Big Dipper constellation with the arrow pointing to where the North Star (Polaris) would be.
Never noticed that 👍Thanks for sharing!
We used to use very similar ones of these (not identical) in a big cinema chain in the north east beginning with C... Used to use it go scan a dark cinema screen to see if anyone was recording - had so many complaints as people used to think we were recording them
Innovative use for this device, something I'd not thought of.
Night Fox Carrot Vision.... 😄
Nice fix man.
Thanks James 👍😂😂😂
Heya, really nice repair and a nice tool on the country side
Cheers 👍
Anyone who can solder like that is a machine gg man proper happy with this vid good stuff
Thanks Groober👍
Well done, solid critical thinking. Self sufficient, proper Brit.
😂😂Thanks 👍
You are a electronics magician, great work.
Thanks 🙂👍
A beautiful piece of troubleshooting and repair work.
Thanks Michael 👍👍
You have inspired me to attend the next Repair Cafe meet.
Nice one 👍
Very much enjoyed this one. I find the methodical approach rather therapeutic! Thank you sir!
Thanks Ryan, you're welcome 🙂
I have to say good job fella. Did not think you could of fixed the eye.
Thanks Victory First 👍
Can I ask you your personal opinion about this device ?? Would you recommend this or other one eyepiece for hunting or security of ones farm ??? Look forward to your recommendation Sir. Good day too. @@BuyitFixit
Sorry, I wouldn't really know I've limited knowledge in this area. I don't think I'd recommend this unit as I've got a night vision rifle scope (Pard NV008P) and it's way better than this one. This is more like a cheap toy compared but it's better than nothing.
I've got a Hikvision security system here for our farm, which has 8 x day / night IP cameras recording 24/7 one of which is a pan / tilt / 24x zoom Sunba camera which is compatible with the system (also day and night) and handy for scanning around the fields to see where the animals are. Hope that helps.
Yes Sir. Thank you very much for your help BuyitFixit.@@BuyitFixit
Glad you could fix it. Always good to have more night vision
Thanks js 👍
I found when looking for where the power feed is, I find what pins are VCC on IC's then follow it back to the battery or power supply, works every time. To find out what an IC that is missing or not legible or have several applications for the same marking. I look up the Data Sheets then compare the components around it that are connected. The reason this works is because some manufactures actually put test schematics or application schematics for that IC in the Data Sheets. Most end manufactures just simply copy those schematics with a slight variation right into their circuits. So if you compare what's on the board to what's in the schematic you can almost always find out what the unknown IC is. Of course you have to have an idea what you think that IC is doing in order to go look for those types of IC's. I find fixing consumer electronics is the ultimate Puzzle Solving Game. Right next to drawing schematics by Reverse Engineering circuit boards with no schematics available to the public. Good job and thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks Keith, yes sometimes electronics can definitely be a puzzle!
This guy is awesome 👍 love these videos
Thank you mate 👍🙂Much appreciated!
Nice work Mick. Now you can shoot some clays in the dark from your porch! This one seemed like it was a bit more of a challenge but that methodical & logical mindset is serving you well. I'd like to say it develops with age but I've working on my methodical and logical approach for 50 years so far and I'm lagging behind you already. I don't think I would have solved this one if I'm being honest. But maybe I will going forward, thanks you to. I do have one question though, because I am keen to learn and understand. The regulator that you removed (or that should have been there from factory), I understood from the pinout's you mentioned that there was a voltage 'pass-through' from one pin straight to another pin, is that correct? If so, you're cunning solution didn't appear to cater for the 'pass-through' and if that's true, it leads me to this question. What is the point of the pass through and why did you're fix still work? In your opinion. Or have I completely misunderstood? I'm a big boy, you can give it to me straight up.
Thanks 👍😂😂😂. The regulator that should have been there has the pin at the bottom left (1) marked "Enable" and the pin at top right (4) "Voltage IN", so linking these pins together makes sense. The pin on the regulator fitted (the wrong one LP2985) pin 1 is "V in" and pin 4 is labelled "bypass" it's for a capacitor to reduce noise according to the data sheet and a 10nf is recommended and then connected to GND.
So on my fix I used a linear regulator which isn't as efficient, but uses 3 wires, IN, GND and Output. If you search BL8028 it will show you the pinouts of a regulator same as what should have been there, and LP2985 will show the regulator that was wrongly fitted.
Hope that helps 🙂👍
Excellent work!
Thanks Lamb Chop 👍
I love the logical approach you take with these repairs, it's like OK I don't have one of those regulators so I've fabricobbled, AKA McGuivered, together something from some stuff I have lying around, hotmelt glued it into place and soldered some wires onto the main board. Outstanding!!! We need far more of your kind in this shit-show of a world we find ourselves in. Keep up the great work.
Thanks GeneralDisarray, I've done this kind of stuff all my life, where I've needed something and just used or fabricated something to do the job (electrical and mechanical stuff). I was repairing my car last year and I needed some "spring compressors". I had some threaded bar and some nuts so i welded 2 nuts together, drilled the threads out of them so they slid one the threaded bar, and welded another nut which was cut in half to the side of the other two to form a hook, did this 4 times and then added a nut and washer at each end.. home made spring compressor :) and then I repaired the car...
@@BuyitFixit I may not be in the same league, but I'm the same.
The momentary PCB printed switches for my front and rear fog lights were becoming hit and miss, in fact the front fog switch wouldn't work at all. I took out the switch cluster, cleaned the contacts, which only helped slightly. I traced out the connections on the board, which has around 12 switches on it, and decided to drill two 12mm holes and mount two nice flush stainless momentary buttons on the panel, a few wires for grounds and the switch contacts, plus a bit of hot melt glue and Tesa tape and I have proper momentary switches for the fogs front and rear.
I'm thinking of adding a few more switches labelled "Oil Slick", "Ejector Seat", etc, just to mess with the MOT guys...🤣🤣🤣
Oooh I look forward to seeing your colinfurze style james bond car video 😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit easiest diy spring compressor is a cork screw metal hose clamp. Daisy chain them together as needed
Yeah I guess that would work too, might take a while tightening all of those 'jubilee clips' as we call them over here 😂😂
Beautiful Work.
Thanks 👍
Great video keep them coming cheers.
Thanks 👍
Richtek RT8024 seems to have the necessary pinout too but there are a bunch of different version with different feedback voltages so it might be necessary to check resistor network there.
Thanks for that. Good detective work 👍
Nice fix. Nicely reasoned out. The scope performance itself gives mediocre results. But for $5, less trash, and some good content...good value.
Thanks, yes the performance isn't so good. I've got a pard nv008p and it's a lot better.
those 1117 regulators are wonderful. I had to do something similar with a 1117 1.8v Great troubleshooting man
Thanks FixItFrank 👍
Great work.
Thank you 👍
Great fix 👍
Cheers mate 👍
Nice fix but you did have me shouting at the screen regarding the screws in the polystyrene, especially when you did the jump cut to them all on the mat- it showed the position of each screw for the case and the arrow was the orientation! But good job on the diag and fix.
Thanks! I did eventually spot the pattern of the screws on the white foam when I was editing the video and thought hmm I wonder if those were the positions of the screws 😂😂😂 they were pretty much all the same size anyway but it was a clever idea, and something that I hadn't thought of. Thanks for the feedback 👍
Our mate Vince & Steztix Steve will be watching your videos for tips from now on
Another very astute fix John.
I like your style and mini bodge that WORKED .
HALLELUJAH !
Vince usually does, he's commented on quite a few videos and even gave me a shout out a few times on his channel 🙂
Yeah,that's why i mentioned him.
Just watched his vid on the Amazon Returns joblot.
That Kodak Scanza is a interesting fix .
I wont spoil it in case you
haven't watched it yet.
Good luck.
Yes watched and commented as Vince was unsure about the diode on the battery charger so I explained and we also had a good chat 😂😂😂
The Geek Squad Club up and running !😂
Nice work, Mick!
Many thanks!
Awesome modification ✌🏻✌🏻✌🏻
Thanks Bhushan 👍🙂
i always look forward to seeing your video on a Sunday morning and i like the way you explain your repair's i have told a couple of my friends to subscribe to your channel as they like watching things like this the same as me thank you have a great weekend
Thanks for your support John 👍Hope you have a great weekend too!
Nice repair. Perfectly OK, what counts is the results.
Thanks Quantum Leap 👍
Nice work!
Thanks Riskifixes 👍
Great find, I like the repairs where it is more complicated than a visually blown component. Keep up the great work!
Thanks Adam. Cheers 👍
Very nice repair!
Thanks Chivacetana👍
Being from the other side of the pond I had to look up Geordie. I can only guess how it sounds.
I missed how you knew, or guessed, the regulator should be 3.3 volts.
I can't remember if it was just a guess or if I searched the main IC. If 3V didn't work, then I would have probably gone with 5V. Best off starting low 😉
Cool night vision camera and interesting fix :)
Thanks MrJSV 👍
Love the Fix 😁 but funny cats looking at cam 🤣
Yes 😂😂😂
The cat's eyes in the IR camera are so funny XDD
😂😂👍
Excellent
Cheers Chris 👍
That gp7u is really unobtanium, and maybe that's a good thing.
Totally agree Voe, I even looked on a few sites I know, that are usually good with SMD identification numbers and no luck. Well at least I know what a few different types of trains look like now 😂😂😂😂
Great video. Have you ever thought of doing a workshop tour or tools that you use etc?
I have but my workshop isn't nothing fancy. I think I did a little bit of it on the Amazon returns video? When testing a camera..Hmm it was one of my videos anyway if not that one 😂😂😂
incredible
Cheers 👍
Nice fix that looks cheap and tacky, thanks for the step by step repair 😊
Thanks Cucumber Man, Yes tacky although not so cheap! About £100 or so when new....
@@BuyitFixit oh ….. I stand corrected lol 😆
😂😂😂😂
There's one singular seller on taobao(mainland china's aliexpress) that sells GP7 series chips(from GP7A to GP7Z).
The listing lists them as buck converters.
Did ask if they know what make and model those chips are, and the answer is unknown.
Would be interesting if I can ask them to mail you some....
Interesting 👍
I knew it was a cat video... 😁
Nice fix and good thought process👍
Thanks 👍 yes the cat was meowing at the door LOL. I think one of them made a visit when I was doing the 1UP arcade cabinet and appears in the video 😂😂😂
Brilliant
Thanks Darren 👍
Nice Mick. 👍
Thanks Colin 🙂👍
Not a bad little monocular. I have an eyeclops night vision goggles and they work but the eyepiece is too narrow for my eyes because this thing is a toy so I removed the eyepiece and it's set up the same as your unit, nothing but an LCD screen and modified camera. It doesn't record video but I'm curious if there's a way to add in a composite video out to it.
Depends on the main chip. This unit seems based on a trail cam perhaps as that was one of the things that popped up when I was searching for the number of the main SOC. If you know what chip is in your unit, try searching for that perhaps you might find a datasheet or a device using it that supports composite output.
@@BuyitFixit I had it apart a few times but not enough to see anything on the chips as they are kind of buried. I dont want to break this thing just to add a video out.
I have a digital recorder with a faulty regulator as well. I thought I could wire up a 3 legged regulator as you did, with a connection for ground, power in and power out, but there is no connection for the on/off switch?
Yes, the circuit in this one the power seemed to be switched separately from the regular. Some of the switching regulators do have an enable or on/off pin. You could use a 3 pin regulator temporary in that case or even connect a manual on off switch. Might be worth seeing if you can obtain the correct part or a similar substitute.
Great fix as always! How did you figure out that the circuit needs 3.3 volts?
Thanks 👍..educated guess, the memory IC would have been 3v so I could have traced back from that to the output to be sure.
Been a subscriber for a while, i find the videos very interesting, although myself not too good with electronics 😢
I have an interesting and expensive paint thickness meter used once and no longer works 😢
Is it something that would be of interest
You can drop me an email at the channels name at out look dot com
Fantastic vid! I’ve recently bought a NV unit just like this but I’m no way near as knowledgeable enough to fix it like this :( any help?
Thanks 👍what's the symptoms?
Night. Vision. Monocular. Dead. No. Power. Can. l. Fix. It
Where do you buy your lead solder from? Been trying to find some for ages but all I seem to get is lead free.
I bought it ages ago mate, I think from Ebay. Sometimes people also have a clear out so you might get lucky there if you are having trouble finding some.
Never use NiMH. On four alkaline batteries (1.5 x 4) you get 6 volts, but with NiMH you only get 4.8 volts (1.2v x 4). Some devices think 4.8 volts indicates low voltage and won't power on.
Yes, I thought the same that's why I swapped to the alkaline in case that was the issue but it turned out to be the wrong regulator was fitted.
Genius
Thanks 👍
They should've just used an AMS1117-3.3 like you did in the first place.
Thanks Simon 🙂
4.99 alone is a great price for those scraps even if you couldnt fix it.
Yes, that's what I thought. I could always use the parts with an Arduino or something if it was unrepairable..
Now I want to see the train
Just Google the part number 😂😂😂
Just love custom chip id's or when they scrub the marks off so you can't repair causing more landfill waste for increased profits.
Yep, sucks. Thanks for commenting 👍
LCD not LCD display. That's like PIN number and ATM machine.
Yes a few people have mentioned the same when I said VFD display, although if I just said VFD that could also be variable frequency drive. I think saying VF display or LC display sounds a little odd 😂😂😂
Just need big Clive on the job
😂😂😂😂
Where did u learn how to repair electronics
I used to mess with stuff when I was a kid lights batteries etc and then computers. Ended up working in amusement arcades back in the day and a lot was self taught and what I picked up from other people too. I knew a guy that used to work for Marconi Radar systems (probably the cleverest guy I've ever known) and he taught me a lot when I was a kid, including programming which was on a nascom2 computer that he built from a kit back in 1979.
@@BuyitFixit thank u for sharing, would u ever make teaching vids about electronics or would that be too hard?
@kamrankhan-ud5vd I did make 4 basic videos a while back on test things like batteries, diodes, resistors and transistors. They are on the channel.
Can you not hear the Chinese saying, 如果愚蠢的人買了這些垃圾，我們就會繼續為他們做 🤔😉
😂😂😂😂😂😂👍
@@BuyitFixit Did ya google it? 😉🤣
Yes 😂😂😂
You are lucky this was not a true NVD. Most of their power supplies are sealed, non repairable units with zero information available to the general public.
Yes, I've seen the insides of a gen one image intensifier a while back. Was pretty much a tube and the HV PSU as you say.
I used to fix those. Sadly you are right about most being not economic to fix. Usually the tube is shorted out, but I did luck out on some with bad capacitors or diodes that drove the NV tube, others had issues with the MCP voltage causing the tube to light up completely green.
Boop
Beep