First off you saved me $765 dollars. I got so irritated by the mechanics here I just vowed I WILL learn how to do whatever there is to do on my vehicles. Thank you‼️
This was an excellent video,detailed and spot on. I did my 01 Ram and had to go one step more. My thetmostat housing was leaking. After removing ac compressor I took off alternator (2 bolts) then I took off bracket that holds alternator and ac compressor. It is only 6 bolts and that opened up whole area to get to thermostat housing and especially that 5 inch by pass hose which was original and in need of replacement... Taking that bracket off made the whole job so much easier to do
For my '99 Ram van 5.2L I've replaced the thermostat and housing by only removing the alternator. Saved the aggravation of removing the A/C & Alt/AC bracket. If you have 100k you're probably due for a new timing chain and the timing cover gasket is close to the end of useful life, mine blew at 124k and the timing chain needed replacing. This video didn't mention to check the bearings of the idler pulley nor the belt tension pulley.
This is a video thoroughly done video but Omg i honestly dont remember doing all that to change the water pump ... You're practically taking the whole truck apart 😳 wow!!!
You guys have the best and most informative video I’ve seen doing this procedure! I watched several before I attempted to do this job on my Ram 1500 4.7. I actually made my own tool after renting tools to remove the clutch. Straight flat bar with two bolts installed 3 inches apart. They fit into the 4 holes on water pump pulls. You guys made a very precise and meticulous video. Good job men! Thanks for the information.
very helpful video, thanks for posting! i always use anti seize on all my bolts and radiator hoses, makes them slide right on or off even after many years.
wish it could be done as fast as shown on the video , but what the heck , I thought the video was right on the money. Very very helpful. Thanks a lot guys.
i know this an old video but any new comers here is a tip....take a tie rod fork and tap it between the pulley and the pump and that will jam it up so you can get the clutch nut off..new pump comes with new pulley anyway so nothing lost..
Just want to say thanks for posting this video. Obviously from the comments below you've helped alot of people with this. It was very educational. The internet is awesome! Thanks!
very similar to the water pump on a 5.9L 2500/2002. I changed the bypass hose which needs to remove the alternator/aluminum bracket to access. I changed the tstat and rad cap too. the steel tube in the side of the pump would not come out of the old pump, so I got a new one at autozone for $10. Unfortunately, my pump went in -10 degree weather, and I had to work in my driveway. I was not as fast as this since some parts didn't want to come off in that cold weather [old gasket material], etc.
Great video, just two issues... 1. Showing how hard it is to get the clutch fan broke loose from the pulley. 2. Removing the coolant return hose(pipe) from the water pump without bending or breaking it.
first thing I did was spray it so it would be soaking in wd 40..im gonna remove it when I get the whole pump out just for that reason i dont want to break it
Rented fan clutch tool kit from O'rielie's and only used huge flat wrench to tighten fan clutch to w/p hub. Great video, I cheated and used my cutting torch to remove the fan clutch from the old water pump. After trying for 45 minutes using the f/clutch tool kit. You can get the fan shroud off with the fan clutch still on by removing the 4 bolts holding the fan to it and moving the fan closer towards the engine. There's just enough room to remove the shroud and make life 100% easier. Then you have lots of room to "fight" removing the fan clutch. Up here in Michigan that nut is really frozen onto the w/pump hub. The f/clutch was the biggest headache of the entire job. I could only guess at tightening the new f/clutch nut to the correct torque. My 2001 Ram 5.2 has the reverse direction clutch, I bought the heavy duty clutch. So far so good, anyone know of a better tool to replace the fan clutch? There was now way to hold the w/pump hub while trying to turn the huge nut holding the f/clutch to the w/pump. The whole job took me 5 1/2 hours give or take a few minutes. It's not as horrible as it appears.. Good luck..
video seems very good, just noticed today that my sons truck 2000 5.2 appears to be leaking from the weep hole. I'm just doing research as I'm a Chevy guy and have never worked on a Dodge. Thanks for the video, they are usually great aides. You didn't say how you torqued the fan/clutch bolt, because to take it off you used the funky wrench set
My fan clutch pulley did not have holes in it to use the wrench so I drilled a 1/4" hole in the face of the pulley where the belt rides (it was going to get thrown away any way) stuck a punch in the hole and 2 seconds later I had the fan off.
I am in the process of this job, I just put my channel locks top jaw under the pulley and let it hit the water pumps ridge on left side then took my big adjustable and the sucka broke loose thank God..didnt need bolts or the special tool
great video, just watched it to replace my pump, however, I now have a leak some where. I am wondering if it is the "bypass" hose. the video dose not show how to replace this? any information would be appreciated .
The kits at the auto stores are not strong enough to break my fan clutch nut loose. I bought a 36 mm combo wrench and that did the trick. The by pass hose is the part you didn't talk about. I see why. My recommendation is to replace it as it is something you don't want to fail on the road. The brackets come off fairly easy. The 2001 Durango is set up a little different as the shroud is one piece and easier to remove. I also didn't have to remove the air cleaner assembly. Good video.
I have the same problem as Doug Montgomery where my coolant return tube had gasket sealer on it and now that I have everything installed I notice a seeping leak on the tube. I am replacing the o-ring today, any suggestions if I should put gasket sealer on the tube to ensure that it wont leak or should I trust the o-ring to do its job?
Very informative! If you don't have AC you can disregard the instructions regarding the compressor assembly. The hoses and bolts you need to access on the water pump are exposed without having remove any additional parts (i.e. air cleaner and compressor).
The TH-cam is a great video. You may want to add the amount of gallons of anti freeze, the type of anti-freeze concentrate and water, versus 50/50. Last on dodge ram 1500, the removal of the water pump by way of a crow bar to dis-large from the frame support. Last, the type of clamps that is the best practice when installing the radiator hoses.
So I legit have like 60 bucks to fix my water pump, and have no access to this ft lbs measuring doo dad, or to new anything (aside from the water pump and the clutch fan kit). Is all the extra crap super important? Or can it wait a day or two until I get the money to get them?
The top water pump bolt was changed to a recessed torx 50 on later models because there is not enough clearance for the standard 14mm socket between bolt head and top of pully. (I used a 12' long thing handle boxend 14mm wrench on my '95 RAM. Also, instead of the special pin spannier wrench for the 36mm fan bolt removal, I used a 14" long channel lock pliers to grasp two of the four bolt heads - stop pulley turning - and a 12" long crescent wrench to loosen and remove the 36mm fan spindle nut.
Viewing this video in preparation of doing the job. Appears to be a very good video. Thanks!! One question though.... Torqueing the Fan Clutch assemby to 42 ft/lbs. Besides the torque wrench, what wrench (type/size) do you use to do the torqueing. Maybe I'm having a senior moment, but it appears to me my torque wrench attack angle would be 90 degress off. Maybe it will make sense when I'm actually doing it. Right now it doesn't make sense to me. Again, may be I'm just having a senior moment. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for the video.
+woodyview I know its been months but I just that I would toss this out. A "crowsfoot wrench" attached to the torque wrench might be the answer you are looking for. Hope it worked out for you anyway.
+Flysooner9 thats because they did not show in the video the breaking of the nut to loosening it and they FAILED to mention that the threads on the water pump are reverse.(when loosening the you have to turn the wrench counterclockwise).
+Jason McMillan yes,absolutely,I too own a 1998 Ram 1500 4x4.And one more thing,since you have to remove the upper radiator hose anyway you might as well replace the thermostat.
quick question, I just replaced mine in my 98 ram 2500 and used blue rtv gasket sealer for water pumps on the gasket, the packet of rtv says dry in one hour and cured in 24 hours so do I wait 24 hours before filling it with coolant or am I good to fill it and drive it an hour later? it didnt say anything on the tube about when I can put the vehicle to use.
I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 . I have a problem over heating just when I set fo awhile the temp goes above 200 degrees when I'm driving it's at 185-190 I have not noticed any antifreeze on ground could I still be water pump or thermostat sensor
I have a 2001 ram 1500 sport 5.9L and it only leaks at the metal heater return hose with the O ring. I replaced it with a new tube and O ring but it still leaks really fast. It even leaks with the engine off when I squeeze the radiator hose with my hand. Any ideas ?
Good video, thanks. One thing I personally do different is to use a nut driver for hose clamps ( they won't slip off). I was taught to apply teflon tape the opposite of the way the video showed. That way the free end can't come unwrapped. I also thought new hoses came w/ a coil spring.
i have a 97 ram 1500 and i was woundering what i could do for a noisy serpentine belt i have tried two new belts and cleaning the water pump pully and i still have a constant noise. also it is a 318 motor
You replaced the two easy to get to coolant hoses. Why not the short one that connects to the water pump and seemingly disappears under the compressor bracket.
Should have put RTV sealant on the return tube before sliding it back in and a little extra around the top after seated rather than just relying on the o-ring. Mine has it that way from the factory even. The book says to get to the thermostat housing tube by removing or moving the alternator....don't you think that would be a little safer and easier than messing with the compressor?
Teflon tape needed on water jacket bolt? I put it in without it and torqued everything up, would it be an issue if I took it out again to put the tape on
Well the only thing they didn’t show is the bypass hose replacement cause I saw it with all the items they had and that’s what is leaking big time I thought it was everything else but nope and funny thing who ever did the water pump last just put rtv around heater tube I ring not there
also, do remember the orientation of the fan blade when replacing clutch. The fan actually has imprinted in metal 'front' ..........you don't want to flip the fan backwards.
I am agreeing with you on this Corey. I'm not a master mechanic and I am beginning to change the water pump in my truck and this is the first time ever changing one. Could you tell me what extra work that doesn't need to be done that they did? I would be thankful for your reply.
where the fuck did those big holes comes from to hold the clutch fan on my ram they aren't even a 1/4" the upper radiator hose didn't have the stock hose clamp either.
![[DRIP] ‘CLIK CLAK’ PREVIEW](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bcxkcOSbpac/mqdefault.jpg)
First off you saved me $765 dollars. I got so irritated by the mechanics here I just vowed I WILL learn how to do whatever there is to do on my vehicles. Thank you‼️
outstanding video. took longer to watch this than it did to change the pump. as a matter of fact, I'm still watching it.
This was an excellent video,detailed and spot on. I did my 01 Ram and had to go one step more. My thetmostat housing was leaking. After removing ac compressor I took off alternator (2 bolts) then I took off bracket that holds alternator and ac compressor. It is only 6 bolts and that opened up whole area to get to thermostat housing and especially that 5 inch by pass hose which was original and in need of replacement... Taking that bracket off made the whole job so much easier to do
For my '99 Ram van 5.2L I've replaced the thermostat and housing by only removing the alternator. Saved the aggravation of removing the A/C & Alt/AC bracket. If you have 100k you're probably due for a new timing chain and the timing cover gasket is close to the end of useful life, mine blew at 124k and the timing chain needed replacing. This video didn't mention to check the bearings of the idler pulley nor the belt tension pulley.
This is a video thoroughly done video but Omg i honestly dont remember doing all that to change the water pump ... You're practically taking the whole truck apart 😳 wow!!!
You guys have the best and most informative video I’ve seen doing this procedure! I watched several before I attempted to do this job on my Ram 1500 4.7. I actually made my own tool after renting tools to remove the clutch. Straight flat bar with two bolts installed 3 inches apart. They fit into the 4 holes on water pump pulls. You guys made a very precise and meticulous video. Good job men! Thanks for the information.
ABSOLUTELY THE BEST video of this procedure I have found, thanks.
very helpful video, thanks for posting! i always use anti seize on all my bolts and radiator hoses, makes them slide right on or off even after many years.
wish it could be done as fast as shown on the video , but what the heck , I thought the video was right on the money. Very very helpful. Thanks a lot guys.
i know this an old video but any new comers here is a tip....take a tie rod fork and tap it between the pulley and the pump and that will jam it up so you can get the clutch nut off..new pump comes with new pulley anyway so nothing lost..
Thank you i have one.
Watched 3 different videos. Got a little bit of something useful from each one. 👍🏾
Just want to say thanks for posting this video. Obviously from the comments below you've helped alot of people with this. It was very educational. The internet is awesome! Thanks!
Hey Joe thanks for your excellent video. If you don't mind to write down all the parts needed for replacement. thanks a lot.
very similar to the water pump on a 5.9L 2500/2002. I changed the bypass hose which needs to remove the alternator/aluminum bracket to access. I changed the tstat and rad cap too. the steel tube in the side of the pump would not come out of the old pump, so I got a new one at autozone for $10. Unfortunately, my pump went in -10 degree weather, and I had to work in my driveway. I was not as fast as this since some parts didn't want to come off in that cold weather [old gasket material], etc.
You guys are awesome! I never tried to do anything like this. I followed to the t. Took me 4 1/2 hrs. Saved a Ton of dough!!!!!! Thanks
Very helpfull video. I changed water pump this week using this vid!
You guys saved my some major coin thank you for this informative and descriptive video keep up the good work
great vid. I used it to guide me thru the replacement. worked great!
Great video, just two issues... 1. Showing how hard it is to get the clutch fan broke loose from the pulley. 2. Removing the coolant return hose(pipe) from the water pump without bending or breaking it.
first thing I did was spray it so it would be soaking in wd 40..im gonna remove it when I get the whole pump out just for that reason i dont want to break it
i just picked a new one when i got the pump and a new bypass hose and new mounting bolts lol...parts store is an 1hr 10min ride
Rented fan clutch tool kit from O'rielie's and only used huge flat wrench to tighten fan clutch to w/p hub. Great video, I cheated and used my cutting torch to remove the fan clutch from the old water pump. After trying for 45 minutes using the f/clutch tool kit. You can get the fan shroud off with the fan clutch still on by removing the 4 bolts holding the fan to it and moving the fan closer towards the engine. There's just enough room to remove the shroud and make life 100% easier. Then you have lots of room to "fight" removing the fan clutch. Up here in Michigan that nut is really frozen onto the w/pump hub. The f/clutch was the biggest headache of the entire job. I could only guess at tightening the new f/clutch nut to the correct torque. My 2001 Ram 5.2 has the reverse direction clutch, I bought the heavy duty clutch. So far so good, anyone know of a better tool to replace the fan clutch? There was now way to hold the w/pump hub while trying to turn the huge nut holding the f/clutch to the w/pump. The whole job took me 5 1/2 hours give or take a few minutes. It's not as horrible as it appears.. Good luck..
Thanks A lot for a great video clear and to the point on all instructions-GOD Bless!
video seems very good, just noticed today that my sons truck 2000 5.2 appears to be leaking from the weep hole. I'm just doing research as I'm a Chevy guy and have never worked on a Dodge. Thanks for the video, they are usually great aides. You didn't say how you torqued the fan/clutch bolt, because to take it off you used the funky wrench set
thanks for the video shows how to do it properly and its straight forward
Outstanding ! Fan clutch was a Biatch for me.
My fan clutch pulley did not have holes in it to use the wrench so I drilled a 1/4" hole in the face of the pulley where the belt rides (it was going to get thrown away any way) stuck a punch in the hole and 2 seconds later I had the fan off.
I am in the process of this job, I just put my channel locks top jaw under the pulley and let it hit the water pumps ridge on left side then took my big adjustable and the sucka broke loose thank God..didnt need bolts or the special tool
great video, just watched it to replace my pump, however, I now have a leak some where. I am wondering if it is the "bypass" hose. the video dose not show how to replace this? any information would be appreciated
.
The kits at the auto stores are not strong enough to break my fan clutch nut loose. I bought a 36 mm combo wrench and that did the trick. The by pass hose is the part you didn't talk about. I see why. My recommendation is to replace it as it is something you don't want to fail on the road. The brackets come off fairly easy. The 2001 Durango is set up a little different as the shroud is one piece and easier to remove. I also didn't have to remove the air cleaner assembly. Good video.
That was a very hepful, and very detailed video. Thank you.
I have the same problem as Doug Montgomery where my coolant return tube had gasket sealer on it and now that I have everything installed I notice a seeping leak on the tube. I am replacing the o-ring today, any suggestions if I should put gasket sealer on the tube to ensure that it wont leak or should I trust the o-ring to do its job?
Very detailed. Thank you
Very informative! If you don't have AC you can disregard the instructions regarding the compressor assembly. The hoses and bolts you need to access on the water pump are exposed without having remove any additional parts (i.e. air cleaner and compressor).
The TH-cam is a great video. You may want to add the amount of gallons of anti freeze, the type of anti-freeze concentrate and water, versus 50/50. Last on dodge ram 1500, the removal of the water pump by way of a crow bar to dis-large from the frame support. Last, the type of clamps that is the best practice when installing the radiator hoses.
thanks for the video. I'm not mechanical and nothing is leaking or overheating so far
Great Job!!! Very detailed presentation. Helped me to replace the water pump on my 1997 Dodge Ram 1500.... KevinL
The coolet return tube for the heater hose had gasket seler on it but all the video on changing the water pump don't show you put it on.do I need it?
Thanks to your video, I as able to replace my water pump - by myself.
So I legit have like 60 bucks to fix my water pump, and have no access to this ft lbs measuring doo dad, or to new anything (aside from the water pump and the clutch fan kit). Is all the extra crap super important? Or can it wait a day or two until I get the money to get them?
Im getting ready to replace my front crank seal.. what size bolts did you use for that clutch fan
The top water pump bolt was changed to a recessed torx 50 on later models because there is not enough clearance for the standard 14mm socket between bolt head and top of pully. (I used a 12' long thing handle boxend 14mm wrench on my '95 RAM. Also, instead of the special pin spannier wrench for the 36mm fan bolt removal, I used a 14" long channel lock pliers to grasp two of the four bolt heads - stop pulley turning - and a 12" long crescent wrench to loosen and remove the 36mm fan spindle nut.
Viewing this video in preparation of doing the job. Appears to be a very good video. Thanks!! One question though.... Torqueing the Fan Clutch assemby to 42 ft/lbs. Besides the torque wrench, what wrench (type/size) do you use to do the torqueing. Maybe I'm having a senior moment, but it appears to me my torque wrench attack angle would be 90 degress off. Maybe it will make sense when I'm actually doing it. Right now it doesn't make sense to me. Again, may be I'm just having a senior moment. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for the video.
+woodyview I know its been months but I just that I would toss this out. A "crowsfoot wrench" attached to the torque wrench might be the answer you are looking for. Hope it worked out for you anyway.
you make it look so easy to break the clutch fan nut loose.
+Flysooner9 thats because they did not show in the video the breaking of the nut to loosening it and they FAILED to mention that the threads on the water pump are reverse.(when loosening the you have to turn the wrench counterclockwise).
thanks for mentioning that. who knew reading the youtube commets would be so useful
I own a 1998 Dodge 1500 5.9 L truck. Would you know if the water pump replacement would be a similar procedure?
+Jason McMillan yes,absolutely,I too own a 1998 Ram 1500 4x4.And one more thing,since you have to remove the upper radiator hose anyway you might as well replace the thermostat.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you. You guys made this a very easy job..
Great video, thank you so much.
quick question, I just replaced mine in my 98 ram 2500 and used blue rtv gasket sealer for water pumps on the gasket, the packet of rtv says dry in one hour and cured in 24 hours so do I wait 24 hours before filling it with coolant or am I good to fill it and drive it an hour later? it didnt say anything on the tube about when I can put the vehicle to use.
Great video. Very helpful. I'm going to replace mine this week.
I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 . I have a problem over heating just when I set fo awhile the temp goes above 200 degrees when I'm driving it's at 185-190 I have not noticed any antifreeze on ground could I still be water pump or thermostat sensor
Thanks! awesome step by step with great visibility.
I have a 2001 ram 1500 sport 5.9L and it only leaks at the metal heater return hose with the O ring. I replaced it with a new tube and O ring but it still leaks really fast. It even leaks with the engine off when I squeeze the radiator hose with my hand. Any ideas ?
Amazing job. thank you for the help!
very accurate plans for something like that I found on Avasva
Any ideas if it'd be the same procedure on a 2002 Ram 3500 Van?
Good video, thanks. One thing I personally do different is to use a nut driver for hose clamps ( they won't slip off). I was taught to apply teflon tape the opposite of the way the video showed. That way the free end can't come unwrapped. I also thought new hoses came w/ a coil spring.
Very informative video, best I've seen.
Message is from my husband..lol
i have a 97 ram 1500 and i was woundering what i could do for a noisy serpentine belt i have tried two new belts and cleaning the water pump pully and i still have a constant noise. also it is a 318 motor
You replaced the two easy to get to coolant hoses. Why not the short one that connects to the water pump and seemingly disappears under the compressor bracket.
Should have put RTV sealant on the return tube before sliding it back in and a little extra around the top after seated rather than just relying on the o-ring. Mine has it that way from the factory even. The book says to get to the thermostat housing tube by removing or moving the alternator....don't you think that would be a little safer and easier than messing with the compressor?
Wouldn't you want to replace the thermostat at the same time?
Thanks. Great way to help us step by step.
Teflon tape needed on water jacket bolt? I put it in without it and torqued everything up, would it be an issue if I took it out again to put the tape on
Christian Perez I also replaced timing cover too
how do you toque the fan assembly nut ?
This is not an all day project, but a good video. From start to finish it only took 1 1/2 hours and I am by no means a mechanic.
Excellent video!!!
I turn the radiator drain plug and nothing comes out. Any idea why?
Thank you for this great video!
Should probably put some lights on the subject or something so people can see the project being performed!
this is well done, great vid
thanks for your advises. you doing good job guys.
congratulations ! this was a great help !!! thank you
Great job guys! thanks
How do you change the fan?
GOOD VIDEO.THANKS!
GREAT video!
What size motor ?
Did you remove the radiator? It doesn't mention it in the video, but it seems like you have a lot of room to work in there.
Good video thanks....
Very good
Thank you
Well the only thing they didn’t show is the bypass hose replacement cause I saw it with all the items they had and that’s what is leaking big time I thought it was everything else but nope and funny thing who ever did the water pump last just put rtv around heater tube I ring not there
Do i really have to wait 24 hours for the ultra grey RTV to dry before i can put liquids in it and drive it??
Thank you!
When replacing the water pump, the thermostat should be replace 2.😊
Tanks
Video was posted just days after I struggled with mine
also, do remember the orientation of the fan blade when replacing clutch. The fan actually has imprinted in metal 'front' ..........you don't want to flip the fan backwards.
Good video, but theres a lot of extra stuff done here that doesnt need to be done to change the water pump
I am agreeing with you on this Corey. I'm not a master mechanic and I am beginning to change the water pump in my truck and this is the first time ever changing one. Could you tell me what extra work that doesn't need to be done that they did? I would be thankful for your reply.
I busted mine out in 4 hours on the side of the road.
Someone replaced that T50 bolt with a regular bolt for me. Bummer!
Sqreen half of size I need full screen for my smart phone
I wanted to see how the inlet pipe was removed and replaced, didn't show that part, 😠😠😠😠, disappointed.
There are no holes in my pully.
the radiator is infront of the fan.
Yikes, lots of silicone.
Not as easy on a 97 van no room
where the fuck did those big holes comes from to hold the clutch fan on my ram they aren't even a 1/4" the upper radiator hose didn't have the stock hose clamp either.
Great video, thank you so much.
i can not get my coolant return tube off the old water pump any ideas as to where I can buy one or get it off?
I pulled mine up towards me and using leverage against the hose it popped right off.