When I look back at my old 1080p videos they look soooooo out of focus and lacking detail now. All my animations are done by a guy via fiverr.com, I am always thinking up new animations for him to do for me...:-)
I didn't notice the change as it would seem as if my Utube had kept the resolution of the old setup, once changed Wow how clear, nice upgrade, many thanks. Also seems as though surprising how good the old tech is and with only a couple of tweaks after 4 decades better than new.
Great video, thanks. I'm just restoring one I got off eBay. Did you adjust the 16.3V mentioned on the PSU circuit diagram? I assume the 16.3V is measured at the plug that connects to the battery pack?
The potting was not about stabilit,y but paranoia about people copying it. In there was a chopper-stabilised opamp built from standard opamps and discrete components - back then there were no chopper amps available as standard parts.
Curious on the matter, I spoke to TIME and asked them "stability" or/and "copying" they said: "The potting was employed to improve its robustness in harsh envioronments, but as you point out, it also made it difficult to repair, it would normaly have been a case of exchanging the module, although due to its reliability, this was not a common occurrence."
As I worked for them (for a short period) when they used a prior Weston (Muihead) standard cell, you are absolutely correct - they didn't want anybody copying their excellent (for its time) chopper design, potting also offered thermal stability, anti-tampering and robustness. The cell was a hassle because of physical movement, bubbles, and settling time. IIRC, the opamps they used were 741s and 725s. Their other equipment included; analogue null meters, current sources and integrators, and they were just getting into RS232-controlled variants and particulate measuring. My apprenticeship was with Muiheads, Beckenham, Kent - now (sadly) much reduced.
WOW that brings back some memories. I was a service engineer for Negretti & Zambra from '75 to '86 we all had more that 1 of the Time Electronics battery only versions of that device, the same rages as that one plus a milliamp calibrator too by the same company. Thanks for that
Between 1988..1995, we had exactly those Time Electronics models with these 5 digital switch dials, but for precision CC. We used those for our different types of low temperature thermometers (Pt100, diodes, Allen Bradley carbon resistors, ..) but as more and more experiments evolved for the High Tc superconductors, and those boxes were extremely expensive, I designed those cheap, but very precise/stable fixed 10µA, 100µA and 1mA mini sources for the whole institute ... those were used up to date in the Advanced physical laboratory course. Those boxes featured sealed references, afair. Yes, it's just shown in the video as well. Potting is used to prevent re-engineering and repair, but it's probably not necessary for stability. Btw.: That's obviously the analogue version of your PDVS2mini calibrator @ 17.6 bit I really appreciate your very fine renovation of the case. It's always a pleasure to see how such old instruments are going into a new life again.
Ian, I thoroughly enjoyed your interview with Dave from EEVblog. I think you were one of his most interesting interviews to date. Didn’t know you had it in you from just the view of your hands and Scots brogue all these years mate. Good on ya then!
used to have quite a bit of Time kit in the LAB, got a lot of use out of he Time resistance and capacitance boxes. always thought that I'd wear out the switches but never did. 🙂
Beautiful work, Ian. I am surprised you were able to save the power supply PCB, what a mess! I just purchased an ultrasonic cleaner - they do a fantastic job. Thank you for another great video. Regards, David
I picked one up a few months back as I used to use them for calibrating instrumentation installations in development aircraft back in the 80's/90's. I refurbed the case and the previous owner had butchered the PU2R PCB because the NiCads had leaked on that and a couple of diodes burnt out and destroyed a few tracks! It now operates on mains only with an 18v LDO Regulator feeding the 2 wires to the front board. The reference module is still good, but the plastics are pretty brittle on it. As you say, nice esthetical looks and it gives me memories of my past life, in aviation flight test, as it sits above my workbench. I use one of your PDVS2mini's now for most calibration and dc signal injection, but the 2003S is always a great bit of kit to have. I plan on rebuilding the PU2R board with support for a LiPo battery (with charger) when I get Time (pun intended)! As for the cal, did you check and set the null and range by adjusting the voltage ref 2 pots first? That affects the range that the other 3 trim pots work over.
I did think of going down the LIPO route but I really wanted to by sympathetic to the original design. If I could have bought the exact same NiCd batteries I would have. Reminds me of my early electronics career in the 80's also!
Excellent and worthwhile repair - many would take one look at that PSU and write the thing off. By the way, your forum link on your About page gives a 404 not found.
I was waiting for you to spot that last NiCd cell mounted on the board... I have a 2003N and naturally the battery in that was just as dead when I got it, though fortunately not quite as leaky, that was some mess you had to clean up!
Very inspiring. I'm a long time tech and you definitely go the extra mile to eek out the smallest errors. You also exhibit a a very gentle touch in removing delicate things such as faceplate overlays, etc. I am surprised by the amount of discoloration ('oxidation") on the gold plated switch tracks. Maybe the Gold is alloyed to make it harder for longer wear?
NiCd corrosion does something very odd to solder. I've seen similar effects when repairing boards in the past. I wonder if the alkali in the battery leaches away the tin or lead to make the melting point a lot higher. I've found that a bit of flux and fresh solder gets things melting again so the old contaminated solder can be wicked off. Not had to do as big a board as that though!
Hmmm, not exactly what I was seeing. It melted just fine.......but it seemed that the tin/lead solder on the board burned, you can see that in the close up after I had tried. When I heated it it just became blackened around the edges and contaminated the solder very badly. Add to that I couldn't even wick it totally off, it looked to me like the chemical composition of the tin/lead and copper had changed resulting in it unwilling to mix with the new solder I applied. But yes, very odd! We need a chemist to check-in here maybe...:-)
so, you can retire the PDVS2mini now hehe. Nice repair, didn't expect anything of that crusty PCB, I thought you where to make a new one via your sponsor. But there is something about keeping the original board in and keeping it as original as possible. Nice clean on the front too, really impressed by that. It is easy to smear of all the labeling of the panel, especially with isopropanol.
@@IanScottJohnston o really, I’ll keep that in mind for the vintage stuff. One of those things you only have one chance. O well, not a direct drama on the thumb wheels
Nice video Ian. I was only surprised3 you didn't change that electrolytic capacitor know it was probably ok..but still better to change it than keep it.
What are the chances...I purchased this very same unit off eBay a few weeks back. Turned it on and got nothing sensible out so returned it as I didn't need another project. I actually decided I would buy one of your PDVS2 minis once they're back in stock as it would serve my purposes much better!
For general use just use any of the cheap cleaning solutions.......for production I use SWAS05L CLEANSER, AQUEOUS, SUPER, SWAS, 5L, available Farnell.....expensive but really good.
now I'm thinking i would probably added input filter (that metal can with fuse inside..for example) there ..so you could actually use proper cables and ofc improve noise
Some acid bearing flux might have helped with those pre-tinned traces. It seems like when the the solder gets corroded it doesn't want to wet out again, acid should help that problem.
Super clean work, well done. What is this “Fiberglass Pen” and where can I find one?? Is it a tool in production or something you made?? It polished those contacts beautifully.
The fiberglass pen work great. Heed the warning that comes with most of the pens. They are made up of many tiny strands of fiberglass. They break/wear and get into/onto everything. Tiny pieces of fiberglass will be all over your work surface. Be careful and not get these tiny pieces of fiberglass on your hands and into your eye. Don't ask me how I know. BUT THEY WORK GREAT!
1975 hell that's lasted a long time :-D Its crap in comparison to your amazing super accurate digital voltage generator, but im not being fair to the ancient time electronics device.
Why didn't you replace the old leaky NiCds with new _NiMH_ batteries. NiMH don't leak, they have more capacity and don't contain Cadmium, which is toxic. I would've just used 2 six cell AA battery holders in series and installed 11 NiMH AAs in them.
New camera (Panasonic HC-X1500), new microphone (RØDE VideoMicro II).........my first video in wonderful 4K 60fps video. Enjoy!
Didn't notise the 4k or microphone, but the new "Spinning Scotsman" animation was fantastic!
When I look back at my old 1080p videos they look soooooo out of focus and lacking detail now.
All my animations are done by a guy via fiverr.com, I am always thinking up new animations for him to do for me...:-)
I didn't notice the change as it would seem as if my Utube had kept the resolution of the old setup, once changed Wow how clear, nice upgrade, many thanks. Also seems as though surprising how good the old tech is and with only a couple of tweaks after 4 decades better than new.
Great video, thanks. I'm just restoring one I got off eBay. Did you adjust the 16.3V mentioned on the PSU circuit diagram? I assume the 16.3V is measured at the plug that connects to the battery pack?
Generous of you to give this lemon a chance 🤭
Yes, but it's a nice looking lemon.
Mind you, I suppose I could have stuffed a PDVS2mini in the box... :-)
@@IanScottJohnstona PDVS2MAXI
@@TheDefpom LOL!
Unobtanium, should I be looking for one on the second hand market ? Know someone that wants to sell ? 😂
The potting was not about stabilit,y but paranoia about people copying it. In there was a chopper-stabilised opamp built from standard opamps and discrete components - back then there were no chopper amps available as standard parts.
Curious on the matter, I spoke to TIME and asked them "stability" or/and "copying" they said:
"The potting was employed to improve its robustness in harsh envioronments, but as you point out, it also made it difficult to repair, it would normaly have been a case of exchanging the module, although due to its reliability, this was not a common occurrence."
As I worked for them (for a short period) when they used a prior Weston (Muihead) standard cell, you are absolutely correct - they didn't want anybody copying their excellent (for its time) chopper design, potting also offered thermal stability, anti-tampering and robustness. The cell was a hassle because of physical movement, bubbles, and settling time. IIRC, the opamps they used were 741s and 725s. Their other equipment included; analogue null meters, current sources and integrators, and they were just getting into RS232-controlled variants and particulate measuring. My apprenticeship was with Muiheads, Beckenham, Kent - now (sadly) much reduced.
WOW that brings back some memories. I was a service engineer for Negretti & Zambra from '75 to '86 we all had more that 1 of the Time Electronics battery only versions of that device, the same rages as that one plus a milliamp calibrator too by the same company. Thanks for that
Between 1988..1995, we had exactly those Time Electronics models with these 5 digital switch dials, but for precision CC. We used those for our different types of low temperature thermometers (Pt100, diodes, Allen Bradley carbon resistors, ..) but as more and more experiments evolved for the High Tc superconductors, and those boxes were extremely expensive, I designed those cheap, but very precise/stable fixed 10µA, 100µA and 1mA mini sources for the whole institute ... those were used up to date in the Advanced physical laboratory course.
Those boxes featured sealed references, afair. Yes, it's just shown in the video as well. Potting is used to prevent re-engineering and repair, but it's probably not necessary for stability.
Btw.: That's obviously the analogue version of your PDVS2mini calibrator @ 17.6 bit
I really appreciate your very fine renovation of the case. It's always a pleasure to see how such old instruments are going into a new life again.
Very good restoration job, and what a great piece of instrument to have on any bench...
Looks and sound great! Nice repair!
Very nice work, Ian. It looks gorgeous!
Ian, I thoroughly enjoyed your interview with Dave from EEVblog. I think you were one of his most interesting interviews to date. Didn’t know you had it in you from just the view of your hands and Scots brogue all these years mate. Good on ya then!
Thanks!.......it was great fun on The Amp Hour........pity ran out of time, there's many more stories!
used to have quite a bit of Time kit in the LAB, got a lot of use out of he Time resistance and capacitance boxes. always thought that I'd wear out the switches but never did. 🙂
Beautiful work, Ian. I am surprised you were able to save the power supply PCB, what a mess! I just purchased an ultrasonic cleaner - they do a fantastic job. Thank you for another great video. Regards, David
You do get some interesting projects on your bench. Nice restoration job. 👍
Thanks 👍
I picked one up a few months back as I used to use them for calibrating instrumentation installations in development aircraft back in the 80's/90's. I refurbed the case and the previous owner had butchered the PU2R PCB because the NiCads had leaked on that and a couple of diodes burnt out and destroyed a few tracks! It now operates on mains only with an 18v LDO Regulator feeding the 2 wires to the front board. The reference module is still good, but the plastics are pretty brittle on it. As you say, nice esthetical looks and it gives me memories of my past life, in aviation flight test, as it sits above my workbench. I use one of your PDVS2mini's now for most calibration and dc signal injection, but the 2003S is always a great bit of kit to have. I plan on rebuilding the PU2R board with support for a LiPo battery (with charger) when I get Time (pun intended)! As for the cal, did you check and set the null and range by adjusting the voltage ref 2 pots first? That affects the range that the other 3 trim pots work over.
I did think of going down the LIPO route but I really wanted to by sympathetic to the original design. If I could have bought the exact same NiCd batteries I would have.
Reminds me of my early electronics career in the 80's also!
Excellent and worthwhile repair - many would take one look at that PSU and write the thing off. By the way, your forum link on your About page gives a 404 not found.
Thanks....dead link removed.
Nice work !...cheers.
Super super nice refurb!!
I was waiting for you to spot that last NiCd cell mounted on the board... I have a 2003N and naturally the battery in that was just as dead when I got it, though fortunately not quite as leaky, that was some mess you had to clean up!
Very inspiring. I'm a long time tech and you definitely go the extra mile to eek out the smallest errors. You also exhibit a a very gentle touch in removing delicate things such as faceplate overlays, etc. I am surprised by the amount of discoloration ('oxidation") on the gold plated switch tracks. Maybe the Gold is alloyed to make it harder for longer wear?
Thanks! Yes, a cheap made voltage source I would assume pure gold plating isn't to be found here not to mention the hardness as you said.
I used to use some of those to system check the PLCs controlling UK power stations
I don't know where you find these, but dang it's a nice vintage gear to fix and put to use. Nicely done.
NiCd corrosion does something very odd to solder. I've seen similar effects when repairing boards in the past. I wonder if the alkali in the battery leaches away the tin or lead to make the melting point a lot higher. I've found that a bit of flux and fresh solder gets things melting again so the old contaminated solder can be wicked off. Not had to do as big a board as that though!
Hmmm, not exactly what I was seeing. It melted just fine.......but it seemed that the tin/lead solder on the board burned, you can see that in the close up after I had tried. When I heated it it just became blackened around the edges and contaminated the solder very badly.
Add to that I couldn't even wick it totally off, it looked to me like the chemical composition of the tin/lead and copper had changed resulting in it unwilling to mix with the new solder I applied. But yes, very odd! We need a chemist to check-in here maybe...:-)
so, you can retire the PDVS2mini now hehe. Nice repair, didn't expect anything of that crusty PCB, I thought you where to make a new one via your sponsor. But there is something about keeping the original board in and keeping it as original as possible. Nice clean on the front too, really impressed by that. It is easy to smear of all the labeling of the panel, especially with isopropanol.
Interestingly, the solder mask on the thumbwheel pcb's was affected by IPA when I was cleaning the gold flashing......I had to be careful there.
@@IanScottJohnston o really, I’ll keep that in mind for the vintage stuff. One of those things you only have one chance. O well, not a direct drama on the thumb wheels
Nice video Ian. I was only surprised3 you didn't change that electrolytic capacitor know it was probably ok..but still better to change it than keep it.
The Pcb was just about un-solderable so didn't want to take the chance. It measured ok. I'll keep my eye on it.
What are the chances...I purchased this very same unit off eBay a few weeks back. Turned it on and got nothing sensible out so returned it as I didn't need another project. I actually decided I would buy one of your PDVS2 minis once they're back in stock as it would serve my purposes much better!
Bike trials?.......I rode a lot of motorcycle trials years ago. Had a few bikes.
@@IanScottJohnston Push bike trials but I did once have a go on a motorbike trials bike and always wanted one since!
What cleaner solution do you use in your cleaner, Ian?
For general use just use any of the cheap cleaning solutions.......for production I use SWAS05L CLEANSER, AQUEOUS, SUPER, SWAS, 5L, available Farnell.....expensive but really good.
@@IanScottJohnston Thank you 🙂
Is that one of the noisy 741's ?
What a bit of kit.
10:17 so what's the round silver can in the middle there?
Look at the video at 17:20, it is the missing 11th NiCd cell, not leaking.
now I'm thinking i would probably added input filter (that metal can with fuse inside..for example) there ..so you could actually use proper cables and ofc improve noise
Yea!! another repair video great 🙂
Some acid bearing flux might have helped with those pre-tinned traces. It seems like when the the solder gets corroded it doesn't want to wet out again, acid should help that problem.
Haven't see that old hammertone paint for donkey's years - lol -.
Super clean work, well done.
What is this “Fiberglass Pen” and where can I find one?? Is it a tool in production or something you made?? It polished those contacts beautifully.
If you Ebay "Fibreglass Pen" you'll find them.
The fiberglass pen work great. Heed the warning that comes with most of the pens. They are made up of many tiny strands of fiberglass. They break/wear and get into/onto everything. Tiny pieces of fiberglass will be all over your work surface. Be careful and not get these tiny pieces of fiberglass on your hands and into your eye. Don't ask me how I know. BUT THEY WORK GREAT!
Hahaha diode bridge is backwards.
Nice work - but I would have definitely replaced that big electrolytic.
I would have but it measured out ok, and the solder pads underside are almost un-solderable as I found out........so left it alone.
@@IanScottJohnston That's fair enough
1975 hell that's lasted a long time :-D
Its crap in comparison to your amazing super accurate digital voltage generator, but im not being fair to the ancient time electronics device.
The bridge is backwards Ian
Yep, thats it!. I suspect Time Electronics used a non-electronics person to draw the schematics for the manual.
That's all that I could see wrong, but I'm just a hobbyist.
Yep, a bridge over troubled alkaline 😉
I wonder if it needs a hot cal.
Why didn't you replace the old leaky NiCds with new _NiMH_ batteries. NiMH don't leak, they have more capacity and don't contain Cadmium, which is toxic. I would've just used 2 six cell AA battery holders in series and installed 11 NiMH AAs in them.
I am kinda on the fence that NiMH batts don't like permanent trickle charging, I.e. can be overcharged.
Not ruling out changing them out later maybe.
instead a fiberglass i use a razor.