The placement on the number is great 👍🏻 Harbor Freight seems to be coming out with some higher quality stuff….looking forward to seeing if they hold up over the next 3 to 6 months. As always awesome video Kelly👊🏻
All great... But you put the worst connector on the marker light harness. Those pierce the insulation of the wire in order to tap into the wire, while leaving it exposed to the weather. You need to either pull the wire out of the connector for the light or just cut it, soldier the 3 together and seal with heat shrink (preferably weatherproof heat shrink with the glue inside the heat shrink tube like those available at H.F.)
Oh no! I havent gotten that far yet but those scotch locks are the proofmark of hack audio shops and caused @ half of all the electrical problems we dealt with at a GM dealer and a dodge dealer. Usually from them using scotch locks installing remote start systems but they would plant those little seeds of future green havoc in taillight harnesses for aftermarket trailer hitches and behind the radio. Any time you got an electrical related complaint on a lower mile vehicle the number one step was to check for aftermarket equipment, 99% of the time if it had equipment added by fast Timmy aftermarket, whatever the location, that was ground zero of the electrical problem. If you followed the flow chart like you were supposed to you would pull your hair out before you found the intermittent loss of signal or ground from a scotch lock that was hacked in to the ignition system randomly mid harness non existent on the wiring diagram and of course didn’t exist according to tech support. They should be outlawed but anyone caught using them definitely forfeits their man card for one year or at least until they remove them and solder or krimp+ heatshrink like they got a pair. 👊
Damn I’d love to see that bronco. I have a ‘95 f150 with the 302. Love my ol girl. I kinda feel weird about putting new LEDs on my old truck though. They look out of place to me. I’m looking at getting some KC halogens instead.
That’s not completely true. I have some even less inexpensive then these that are from Amazon. 5 years old and still work as they did when I bought them. The only part that isn’t in as good of condition is the hardware. But I have a few things from harbor freight for off-road and I really like it. I think these lights will hold up. I wish my old lights would go so I can replace them with these. Not everything inexpensive is bad.
I guess if using the Spot/Flood combo, I can see the benefit of utilizing the High and Low modes. But if using the Spot only, doesn't seem like it'd make sense to use the Low mode. I know you used the Flood variant, but can you tell how much light there is from the side portions?
I really like your S10. I have a 4cyl 2wd Sonoma. I thought about putting a posi locker in it (it has 4.11 gears stock)... That that would improve any trailing ability it might be capable of it? That and bigger tires?
I replaced all the glass bulbs in my headlights and taillights with auxbeam brand led’s off Amazon and hooooooly shit does that make a night and day 😉 difference
i love the video. i had a question... you spent a lot of time tuckin that winch in tight and carved out a spot of the grill for the freespool lever. it looks like the light is right in the way. does it still work? can you reach it easily?
Question brotha, does that one wire harness kit work for two lights or do you need to buy one for each light? (If someone wanted to go that way of course)
I am looking for some off-road light options and have seen some good reviews on these lights including yours. Question, I am assuming I can run these into my SPOD the question is how to separate the high and low when my switches are only on and off. I know I can tap into the running lights like you did but I don’t have dual switches. I don’t want to buy the wire harness if I don’t have to. Thanks for the review videos, always enjoy them.
Do you know off hand which of the 5 wires you used for each of the low and high beam circuits? One wire will not be needed as it delivered power to light the switch, correct? I have the 6 led and I am planning on wiring them the same as you. Thanks for any help.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 thank you. I planned on using a relay, in addition to the switch panel I run, so as not to be able to supply 12v twice and torch the light.
Just positive, my switch panel has power and ground straight from the battery already and it is fused. The switch is only powering the relay which allows the full power directly from the battery to the lights. If you are not confident in electrical and wiring you should probably invest in the wiring harness. It’s makes it very simple.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 I did get the harness, but in my error I ran both pos/neg to the switch panel. When I re-watched your video it looked like you only ran positive. My switch is like yours just from a different manufacturer. Thanks for your help. It's the relay post switch that's throwing me with the high low as all my other lights are just triggered by the switch in the engine bay.
Good evening i plan on wiring these to my auxbeam and using two switches as well, did you cut the wiring harness after the relay and what did you do with the fused red and black wires that were supposed to go to the battery?
No, the harness main power and ground still go directly to the battery. You want to use the wires from the switch to the Auxbeam. The Auxbeam does have build in solid state relays so the harness is not completely necessary. You could just wire the lights directly to the Auxbeam. But I prefer it having its own stand alone relay and harness. But it’s not completely necessary.
@@averbeck1979 instructions say to not power both high and low beams at the same time. How I understand it , if you send power to high beam wire both high and low will turn on. So if you wire high and low beam to individual auxbeam panel switches , it will work!!! You’ll just have to remember not to turn both switches at the same time. I’m trying to decide whether or not to wire them like that a risk forgetting not to turn the both on at the same time
What’s the point of the switch panel if you’re still running cables to the battery and to relays. The only correct use of the relay was for the backlight.
I think imma roll the dice on 6 of these for my Gen 3 Raptor… price for them vs LP4’s when buying that many, it’s hard to beat…. I just don’t want to spend $2k on lighting vs spending that money on actual off road trips with the family
HF has two models of these new EDGE line lights... the 4 led here.. as well as a larger 6 led model... not sure about these 4's (even though Both have a low beam & high beam mode... but.... they make it very clear with the 6 led model that if you don't' use their premade harness (which is good quality & WELL worth the price) you CAN NOT power up both power leads at the same time. so if you're using two separate switches & have low beam on... you can't just power up the 2nd switch to power the high beam mode... it will damage the lights internally.... the HF Premade harness protects against that & comes with everything ya need. the two position switch has low beam & high beam & only powers the correct lead, not both. so be careful if you do your own wiring. They are Extremely well built & quality is higher than you'd think.... worth it to pay attention to their warning.
Harbor freight gives out a bunch of free lights in exchange for saying “harbor frieght roadshock edge lights” 1203 times in a row”review.” Come on Kelly. But hey, love your channel keep it real
I had a light bar that shorted out on black bear pass trail in Co. Some how when it happened it killed my truck well into the trail. I disconnected it and ran the trail. When I was airing up I tore out the wiring and pitched it. Never again will I buy those lights.
@@Mlpojnnb1234 You're of course free to chose whatever you want. I happen to run KC lights on my crawler but generic Amazon fake ARB Intensity lights on my more overlander-y rig. Don't know how a light bar failing could kill your truck; worst case it should just blow the fuse (you did use a relay and fuse, right?). But the point of this vid is that like many of HF's products, they've really upped their game over recent years. Not just the throw-away junk they started with. Will I buy these new lights? IDK...I don't need any more lights right now. But if I do, I may well consider them. If your only experience with HF is from years ago though, it's worth another look as they really do have some decent stuff these days. Oh sure there's still some junk too, but they have made major improvements.
IMHO Baja Design is way over priced. They claim their stuff is top tier designed, and quality. Well i know folks where the inside chrome reflector is peeling off. $300 -$500 ea light is a joke.
I would rather these were a little simpler without three different lighting modes and a simple all on or off for a little less money. Overall Harbor Freight is getting really competitive with the gucci light brands.
Nice looking lights but that seems a little pricey for harbor freight stuff and you have to buy the harness separately. If it was 100 bucks with the harnes it would be a little easier to swallow. Lets see how they hold up over time
$100 for what appears to be a high quality LED light is pricey to you? 😂 Apparently haven’t priced out other quality brand lights obviously. $100 is cheap.
The placement on the number is great 👍🏻 Harbor Freight seems to be coming out with some higher quality stuff….looking forward to seeing if they hold up over the next 3 to 6 months. As always awesome video Kelly👊🏻
Thanks 👍🏻
All great... But you put the worst connector on the marker light harness. Those pierce the insulation of the wire in order to tap into the wire, while leaving it exposed to the weather. You need to either pull the wire out of the connector for the light or just cut it, soldier the 3 together and seal with heat shrink (preferably weatherproof heat shrink with the glue inside the heat shrink tube like those available at H.F.)
Oh no! I havent gotten that far yet but those scotch locks are the proofmark of hack audio shops and caused @ half of all the electrical problems we dealt with at a GM dealer and a dodge dealer.
Usually from them using scotch locks installing remote start systems but they would plant those little seeds of future green havoc in taillight harnesses for aftermarket trailer hitches and behind the radio.
Any time you got an electrical related complaint on a lower mile vehicle the number one step was to check for aftermarket equipment, 99% of the time if it had equipment added by fast Timmy aftermarket, whatever the location, that was ground zero of the electrical problem.
If you followed the flow chart like you were supposed to you would pull your hair out before you found the intermittent loss of signal or ground from a scotch lock that was hacked in to the ignition system randomly mid harness non existent on the wiring diagram and of course didn’t exist according to tech support.
They should be outlawed but anyone caught using them definitely forfeits their man card for one year or at least until they remove them and solder or krimp+ heatshrink like they got a pair. 👊
I've been waiting to see some output vids. Definitely will be putting some on my Cummins powered 95 bronco!
Damn I’d love to see that bronco. I have a ‘95 f150 with the 302. Love my ol girl. I kinda feel weird about putting new LEDs on my old truck though. They look out of place to me. I’m looking at getting some KC halogens instead.
I enjoy your reviews on products you use. Thanks
Thanks 👊🏻
The Auxbeam switch panel has built-in solid state relays, there was no need to use the relay.
Looking forward to 6m and 1y updates. Seems the cheaper products are good for about a year and then they start to deteriorate quickly.
That’s not completely true. I have some even less inexpensive then these that are from Amazon. 5 years old and still work as they did when I bought them. The only part that isn’t in as good of condition is the hardware. But I have a few things from harbor freight for off-road and I really like it. I think these lights will hold up. I wish my old lights would go so I can replace them with these. Not everything inexpensive is bad.
This used to be true, quality has improved from my experience.
HF has stepped up. Look at ICON tools, I agree time will tell but very promising
You mixed up the term spot when you meant flood, and the spot is the “highbeam” but I’m tempted to try these on my mustang
I guess if using the Spot/Flood combo, I can see the benefit of utilizing the High and Low modes. But if using the Spot only, doesn't seem like it'd make sense to use the Low mode. I know you used the Flood variant, but can you tell how much light there is from the side portions?
Wow, these lights look legit!
I'm currently working on my 02 Tahoe overlander. I'm definitely looking for extra lighting options.
Nice, definitely will be a good option for the price. Hopefully they hold up long term. They seem pretty well made so I have high hopes.
I really like your S10. I have a 4cyl 2wd Sonoma. I thought about putting a posi locker in it (it has 4.11 gears stock)... That that would improve any trailing ability it might be capable of it? That and bigger tires?
I replaced all the glass bulbs in my headlights and taillights with auxbeam brand led’s off Amazon and hooooooly shit does that make a night and day 😉 difference
i love the video. i had a question... you spent a lot of time tuckin that winch in tight and carved out a spot of the grill for the freespool lever. it looks like the light is right in the way. does it still work? can you reach it easily?
Thanks, the lever is easily accessible behind the light. That was one of the things I made sure when I was placing the mounts.
Question brotha, does that one wire harness kit work for two lights or do you need to buy one for each light? (If someone wanted to go that way of course)
Yes, one wire harness does 2 lights.
I am looking for some off-road light options and have seen some good reviews on these lights including yours. Question, I am assuming I can run these into my SPOD the question is how to separate the high and low when my switches are only on and off. I know I can tap into the running lights like you did but I don’t have dual switches. I don’t want to buy the wire harness if I don’t have to. Thanks for the review videos, always enjoy them.
Thanks, you would just run them on two different switches on the panel just like I did. One button is low and one button is high.
7 pin relay. Watch a couple youtube vids and you can diy it
There are five wires behind the roadshock edge wiring harness switch. Which wire should I connect to the auxiliary switch?? Please let me know.
Do you know off hand which of the 5 wires you used for each of the low and high beam circuits? One wire will not be needed as it delivered power to light the switch, correct? I have the 6 led and I am planning on wiring them the same as you. Thanks for any help.
The wiring diagram that comes with it tells you which color wire does what.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 thank you. I planned on using a relay, in addition to the switch panel I run, so as not to be able to supply 12v twice and torch the light.
Did you run both pos and neg to your switch panel? I blew a fuse as soon as I triggered high, but low was fine.
Just positive, my switch panel has power and ground straight from the battery already and it is fused. The switch is only powering the relay which allows the full power directly from the battery to the lights. If you are not confident in electrical and wiring you should probably invest in the wiring harness. It’s makes it very simple.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 I did get the harness, but in my error I ran both pos/neg to the switch panel. When I re-watched your video it looked like you only ran positive. My switch is like yours just from a different manufacturer. Thanks for your help. It's the relay post switch that's throwing me with the high low as all my other lights are just triggered by the switch in the engine bay.
Woow that's amazing definitely doing this then baja
The harness has a Yellow cable. Where do I connect that cable to??? 2008 Nissan Armada. TIA
Good evening i plan on wiring these to my auxbeam and using two switches as well, did you cut the wiring harness after the relay and what did you do with the fused red and black wires that were supposed to go to the battery?
No, the harness main power and ground still go directly to the battery. You want to use the wires from the switch to the Auxbeam. The Auxbeam does have build in solid state relays so the harness is not completely necessary. You could just wire the lights directly to the Auxbeam. But I prefer it having its own stand alone relay and harness. But it’s not completely necessary.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 thank you very much!!
I am sorry to keep.asking questions, but I keep blowing fuses. Which wires from the switch did you cut and put in the Auxbeam switches?
@@averbeck1979 instructions say to not power both high and low beams at the same time. How I understand it , if you send power to high beam wire both high and low will turn on. So if you wire high and low beam to individual auxbeam panel switches , it will work!!! You’ll just have to remember not to turn both switches at the same time. I’m trying to decide whether or not to wire them like that a risk forgetting not to turn the both on at the same time
@@MuddyBeards4X4 I'm also in a similar boat. Do you have any pictures of which wires from the switch you plugged into the auxbeam?
Awesome video!!!
Thanks 👊🏻
What’s the point of the switch panel if you’re still running cables to the battery and to relays. The only correct use of the relay was for the backlight.
I think imma roll the dice on 6 of these for my Gen 3 Raptor… price for them vs LP4’s when buying that many, it’s hard to beat…. I just don’t want to spend $2k on lighting vs spending that money on actual off road trips with the family
Are these goof as ditch lights ?
Am I correct in assuming you cannot choose just the spot beam?
Nice S10. What year and how many miles on it?
Thanks. it’s an 01, 120k. I have probably 12 videos on the build on the channel
HF has two models of these new EDGE line lights... the 4 led here.. as well as a larger 6 led model... not sure about these 4's (even though Both have a low beam & high beam mode... but.... they make it very clear with the 6 led model that if you don't' use their premade harness (which is good quality & WELL worth the price) you CAN NOT power up both power leads at the same time. so if you're using two separate switches & have low beam on... you can't just power up the 2nd switch to power the high beam mode... it will damage the lights internally.... the HF Premade harness protects against that & comes with everything ya need. the two position switch has low beam & high beam & only powers the correct lead, not both. so be careful if you do your own wiring. They are Extremely well built & quality is higher than you'd think.... worth it to pay attention to their warning.
Very nice lights...thx
Harbor freight gives out a bunch of free lights in exchange for saying “harbor frieght roadshock edge lights” 1203 times in a row”review.” Come on Kelly. But hey, love your channel keep it real
Why do LEDs need cooling fins ?
they still produce a good amount of heat inside the housing.
Great job, Kelly. 👍🏼
Thanks 👊🏻
Looks like Horrible Freight is really stepping up their game....😁👍👍
Yup, they have been for the past 5 years or so.
No really the lights suck. Had one.
@@Mlpojnnb1234 Had one of this model? Or something else? It sounds like these are only just coming to market.
I had a light bar that shorted out on black bear pass trail in Co. Some how when it happened it killed my truck well into the trail. I disconnected it and ran the trail. When I was airing up I tore out the wiring and pitched it. Never again will I buy those lights.
@@Mlpojnnb1234 You're of course free to chose whatever you want. I happen to run KC lights on my crawler but generic Amazon fake ARB Intensity lights on my more overlander-y rig. Don't know how a light bar failing could kill your truck; worst case it should just blow the fuse (you did use a relay and fuse, right?). But the point of this vid is that like many of HF's products, they've really upped their game over recent years. Not just the throw-away junk they started with. Will I buy these new lights? IDK...I don't need any more lights right now. But if I do, I may well consider them. If your only experience with HF is from years ago though, it's worth another look as they really do have some decent stuff these days. Oh sure there's still some junk too, but they have made major improvements.
IMHO Baja Design is way over priced. They claim their stuff is top tier designed, and quality. Well i know folks where the inside chrome reflector is peeling off. $300 -$500 ea light is a joke.
Without a doubt. For half the price of a phone, that light had better be able to do my taxes too.
Well, it does have lifetime warranty.. did your friends get them replaced?
I’ve had my Baja design lights since 2019 my Jeep sits out in the desert sun and the internal is fine
I would rather these were a little simpler without three different lighting modes and a simple all on or off for a little less money. Overall Harbor Freight is getting really competitive with the gucci light brands.
Nice looking lights but that seems a little pricey for harbor freight stuff and you have to buy the harness separately. If it was 100 bucks with the harnes it would be a little easier to swallow. Lets see how they hold up over time
$100 for what appears to be a high quality LED light is pricey to you? 😂 Apparently haven’t priced out other quality brand lights obviously. $100 is cheap.
@@MechanicalMafioso - do NOT show him a link for some Baja Designs LP6s or LP9s 😆
See how much KC wants for their lights 👀
Now that I’m totally confused
I want to throw 2 6 inch mini bars on my car bumper mounted hidden
your recovery point should be connected directly to your trucks frame. not another spot.
It is tied directly into the frame, the whole front bumper is integrated into the frame. It serves as a front crossmember when I cut all the IFS out.
I have set off eBay
Dual clear or amber no goofy colored covers.
20$ and stupid bright for 2 4 led pods