Them bolts are the weak spot then I never had one snapped. I’ve stripped threads out, but never snapped them bolts. Mine definitely stripped. I did a whole video on doing Heli coils in them to repair them.
You hit the nail on the head over torquing the bolts is what’s breaking them, so if people followed specs they would never have a problem, I have ran multiple so called cheap,stems and have never had any problems..
I imagine that if ur not in the machining or metal work, bolts are bolts. I never thought about hardness until I started watching Forged in Fire. As a BMXer I never had a torque wrench, and as a MTBer I've done more damage in the garage with small bolts. Like, even if u did go cheap on a stem, just upgrading the bolts alone would give me piece of mind.
A. I absolutely love forged in fire 🤣🤣🤣 B. I agree here! This kind of opened my eyes to how truly important it is to properly torque to specifics. Appreciate the comment!!! 😁
not being able to take more than 5nm rotationally doesnt mean itll break easily lengthwise. But i supposed a cheesey way to gauge stem strength is see how many nm is needed for bolt tightening.
I agree with you 100%. This is a part 2 and these were more "tests" that people were wanting to see 😁 Sadly I'd say most break bolts this way though due to just monkey gripping the bolts out of existence 😅😅😅 Always a good idea to have some form of torque wrench 😁
Wow! I'll be more careful with torque specs in the future. That break happened under twisting torque. I think they'd hold up better to normal riding torques (most motion up & down or side to side not twisting). While somewhat concerning I won't be replacing my Wake stem or its bolts. I'm not bombing down trails any more so might have swapped the stem if I rode as hard as you. I have a novel suggestion. Why not go back to beating on the entire bike with rides instead of a hammer.😂
Some flex is good for comfort. If you like fatigue and pain, Burgtec RideHigh is the bar for you. Harshest bar I've tried so far, it's Alu, and barely flexes with me hanging on it, bunny hops are harsh, feel small bumps more. So far comfiest bars i've tried were carbon, One Up very stiff horizontally but flexes vertically, comfy bar for sure & Race Face Sixc35, which flexes in all directions, is very comfortable, the flex is not an issue, but doing advanced trailsy moves you might feel it if you push really hard on the bar.
I've not tried other carbon bars. but I can recommend these two, both great options. But I see PNW has a carbon bar now too. It's called Loam Carbon @@chickensendies
A proper stem & stem and bolts should handle big jumps, crashing into a tree. To simulate these things, bar and handlebar are put on a testing rig that torture tests it, flexes it to all directions until failure. But fake carbon handlebars would snap with what you did. But the bolt bottoming out and stripping as you over torque it makes sense. But nobody will do this, a small ratchet wrench and going by feel or using a torque wrench is good. I guess the front plate might snap when bolts snap, then the leverage and torque from the bar snaps the plate. Then there is putting grocery bags, handlebar bag and so on, this could snap junk stems I guess. Also depends on the materials used.
Sadly 10nm is not hard to get to on a bolt. If you do not know what you are doing you can definitely get to that and break these bolts. They definitely seem weak. But, as I mentioned in the video they are fine as long as you are within the correct parameters. 😁
Factories can overtighten stuff too, by using wrong torque on a electric or air tool, on my old main bike which was a 2014 Fuel Trek over torqued a 10nm bolt to insane torque. I had to put the hex key in the freezer, pour hot water on the frame. It got the job done. @@chickensendies
Reaching correct torque on a stem is usually easy with a small tool even a multi tool. I prefer to use a mini ratchet as it's quick to get the bolt in, then I can tighten it and feel when it stops. I've checked with a torque wrench I get it spot on or very close. So not bothered with the torque wrench on the stem the last times. An important thing is to add thread locker like Loctite 243, to make it secure for longer. But I find seat clamping bolts to be trickier as they require a higher torque, but even with a long hex key I can't do it. @@chickensendies
I have sheered genuine shimano brake mounting bolts before at a pretty low torque level. Probably best to find higher tensile strength bolts for these stems.
@@chickensendies I got a pack of 10.9 black oxide M5 bolts for like £5 from Amazon and they seem really good. Keep and eye out for whether the stem body is cast or forged. The latter being stronger.
Lol so basically it self prevents stripping by having the bolt break first! Interesting discovery. Thanks for the follow up vid!
This sounds about right 🤣🤣🤣 It definitely is not what I was expecting!
WASTE OF LIFE! OUR LIFE! GOOD JOB PAL
@TToxvehi Others have found it useful. Shame you didn't. Take care though and have a great day 😉
Need to do a full-speed ride between two tree trunks😉
HERE WE GOOOOO 😅
Get what you pay for. Everything is only as strong as its weakest link. And not following torque specs is just a quicker way to find that link.
This is exactly it!
Them bolts are the weak spot then I never had one snapped. I’ve stripped threads out, but never snapped them bolts. Mine definitely stripped. I did a whole video on doing Heli coils in them to repair them.
I wonder if it is a different batches sort of thing.... interesting
You hit the nail on the head over torquing the bolts is what’s breaking them, so if people followed specs they would never have a problem, I have ran multiple so called cheap,stems and have never had any problems..
Definitely from what I gathered in this video! Appreciate the comment 😁
I imagine that if ur not in the machining or metal work, bolts are bolts. I never thought about hardness until I started watching Forged in Fire. As a BMXer I never had a torque wrench, and as a MTBer I've done more damage in the garage with small bolts. Like, even if u did go cheap on a stem, just upgrading the bolts alone would give me piece of mind.
A. I absolutely love forged in fire 🤣🤣🤣 B. I agree here! This kind of opened my eyes to how truly important it is to properly torque to specifics.
Appreciate the comment!!! 😁
not being able to take more than 5nm rotationally doesnt mean itll break easily lengthwise. But i supposed a cheesey way to gauge stem strength is see how many nm is needed for bolt tightening.
I agree with you 100%. This is a part 2 and these were more "tests" that people were wanting to see 😁 Sadly I'd say most break bolts this way though due to just monkey gripping the bolts out of existence 😅😅😅 Always a good idea to have some form of torque wrench 😁
I need to get one of them torque wrenches so i can stop having to always convert to inch pounds!
Absolutely love it! One of my favorite purchases!
I go from foot pounds to inch pounds to Newton meters quite a bit... I end up googling it nearly every time 😂
@@playgroundchooser Google is our friend 🤣
Wow! I'll be more careful with torque specs in the future.
That break happened under twisting torque. I think they'd hold up better to normal riding torques (most motion up & down or side to side not twisting).
While somewhat concerning I won't be replacing my Wake stem or its bolts. I'm not bombing down trails any more so might have swapped the stem if I rode as hard as you.
I have a novel suggestion. Why not go back to beating on the entire bike with rides instead of a hammer.😂
Yea, I think all in all these are still fine. Just gotta watch out on the torque HAHAHAHA
I'm impressed with the cast aluminum. The bolts must be made of pig iron, too soft
That is what I was gathering from this video.
Interesting that the steel bolt breaks before the aluminum. That seems crazy to me if you've ever stripped out a pedal
It is definitely not what I expected....
Some flex is good for comfort. If you like fatigue and pain, Burgtec RideHigh is the bar for you. Harshest bar I've tried so far, it's Alu, and barely flexes with me hanging on it, bunny hops are harsh, feel small bumps more. So far comfiest bars i've tried were carbon, One Up very stiff horizontally but flexes vertically, comfy bar for sure & Race Face Sixc35, which flexes in all directions, is very comfortable, the flex is not an issue, but doing advanced trailsy moves you might feel it if you push really hard on the bar.
I've personally never ridden carbon bars. I typically just get PNW bars. My personal favorite for the price.
I've not tried other carbon bars. but I can recommend these two, both great options. But I see PNW has a carbon bar now too. It's called Loam Carbon @@chickensendies
get some come alongs on each end see what happens
That'll probably do it 🤣🤣🤣
A proper stem & stem and bolts should handle big jumps, crashing into a tree. To simulate these things, bar and handlebar are put on a testing rig that torture tests it, flexes it to all directions until failure.
But fake carbon handlebars would snap with what you did. But the bolt bottoming out and stripping as you over torque it makes sense. But nobody will do this, a small ratchet wrench and going by feel or using a torque wrench is good. I guess the front plate might snap when bolts snap, then the leverage and torque from the bar snaps the plate.
Then there is putting grocery bags, handlebar bag and so on, this could snap junk stems I guess.
Also depends on the materials used.
Sadly 10nm is not hard to get to on a bolt. If you do not know what you are doing you can definitely get to that and break these bolts. They definitely seem weak. But, as I mentioned in the video they are fine as long as you are within the correct parameters. 😁
I see how that can happen, long hex key and cranking on it hard. @@chickensendies
@mtbboy1993 Yep! And you know like me most new riders most likely do not have "proper tools" or even a torque wrench. Appreciate you 😁
Factories can overtighten stuff too, by using wrong torque on a electric or air tool, on my old main bike which was a 2014 Fuel Trek over torqued a 10nm bolt to insane torque. I had to put the hex key in the freezer, pour hot water on the frame. It got the job done. @@chickensendies
Reaching correct torque on a stem is usually easy with a small tool even a multi tool. I prefer to use a mini ratchet as it's quick to get the bolt in, then I can tighten it and feel when it stops. I've checked with a torque wrench I get it spot on or very close. So not bothered with the torque wrench on the stem the last times. An important thing is to add thread locker like Loctite 243, to make it secure for longer.
But I find seat clamping bolts to be trickier as they require a higher torque, but even with a long hex key I can't do it. @@chickensendies
There is no way that bolt should be breaking with that little bit of torque
I was definitely not expecting that.
I have sheered genuine shimano brake mounting bolts before at a pretty low torque level. Probably best to find higher tensile strength bolts for these stems.
That seems to be a good option for these stems for sure! 😁
@@chickensendies I got a pack of 10.9 black oxide M5 bolts for like £5 from Amazon and they seem really good. Keep and eye out for whether the stem body is cast or forged. The latter being stronger.
@@LysergicCasserole95 I may look into a set to test myself now! Appreciate the input 😁
The hammer was so cringey! HAHAHA!
I was kind of second guessing myself on it 🤣🤣🤣
I'm pretty sure Captain's Cog bent one of those Wake stems awhile back
I should reach out to him and see what happened!
@@chickensendies I sent him a new stem, lol
@@BerserkerNick You da man! HAHAHAHA
10:00 this is so stupid, tyre takes all the force from hammer
@aeyde I wouldn't say all but definitely some. At the end of the day it was just some out of the box stuff. Appreciate the comment