I just replaced the whole aluminum piece with bushing. Also had a hard time to allign the front bushing bolt. My solution was to loosen all the 4 bolt thats holding the aluminum bracket and then install the arm and front bolt. Then tighten all the 4 bolts and done. Also I didn't took out the axle, there is enough room to do the job without taking it out. Thanks for the video which helped me a lot to prepare
I have never completed this without at least one side snapping; I recommend fitting Audi A2/Ibiza Cupra solid bushes, they seem to last better than the regular voided ones.
I really enjoy your videos. They are very helpful. I own a skoda Felicia combi and would really like to see more videos on Felicia repairs because your channel is the only one in English.
Thank you! it is always nice to hear that my videos are helping people. I do have one video on the shelf left about the Falicia. I don't know how many i am going to make, so no promises there.
@@TheDutchGarage I'm about to tackle this job. It seems to me that if the threads do strip, you could insert a longer bolt that goes out the back of the subframe, and put a bolt on it. Looks as if you'd have to grind a small bit of the frame away. I wondered if you (or anyone else has ever tried this approach? Cheers.
Excellent. Have started this job on a Fox Urban. Fortunately the main pivot bolts have not sheared and they seem to go back in OK. I tried getting the bushings out but failed. I did not have a suitable size metal disc so cut one out of some hardwood but it got a small crack and I think this caused it to jam against the housing and the bushing/silent block did not budge and the threaded bar stripped (couldn't find a high tensile one). I have ordered a bushing removal kit which is £34 but looks well made and is a lot cheaper than a garage in London doing the job (£240 if the bolts don't shear, and that is a respected garage cheaper than a main dealer). Yours is the only video that mentioned that you have to lift the engine to remove the bolt on the right had side so thank you for this information. I don't have a hoist so very carefully jacked it up with a block of wood under the oil pan. The trouble is that the plate that links the top engine mounting to the engine is stuck at the bottom of the thread. It has not lifted off as it shows in this video at 18.00 minutes. I am reluctant to whack it with a hammer as I don't want to damage the thread or crack the plate. I have removed the three bolts on the engine side as well but not good. I would appreciate any tips you have. If I have to I'll remove the engine mount and get a new one. Thanks for the excellent video. Here is a tip for people who need to buy a bi-hex/12 point socket to get the axle nut off....get a thin wall one! Most others are too thick as for some reason VW made the fit of this model really tight. I had to grind mine down with an angle grinder. And it took lots of penetrating fluid and a new breaker bar too! All the best. Here is a link for people who need a bush removal kit. There are cheaper ones but perhaps not as good: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-VAG-Polo-Bushing-Tool-Bush-Remover-Replacement-Set-Silent-Blocks-/401368771252
You got one of these days my good friend. Maybe it helps to remove the 'dog bone' engine mount maybe you can just get a bit more room and if that doesn't work. the only thing i can think of is removing the oil pan. Hopefully it doesn't have to come to that.
@@TheDutchGarage Appreciate the quick reply. Until you said to lift the engine I thought I'd have to remove the oil pan anyway! Will remove the engine mount and if the connecting plate is stuck on will buy a new dog bone. About £40/£50 but still a lot cheaper than taking it to the garage. And a lot more satisfying to do it myself. Only possible thanks to people like you. I think you say to torque the pivot bolt to 50nm + 90°. The Haynes manual says 70nm + 90°, but I have had some nightmares using these books.....do you do the final tightening when the wheel is back on the ground or doesn't it matter?
Well...im about to go threw the same nightmare; my wifes car just got the same problem, only the bolt is broken inside.....thanks for the video, very usefull !!
@@TheDutchGarage I fixed the stupid thing....i welded the remaining broken bolt so i could get it out and i managed to save the thread, used new bolts....to screw it corectly you must lift the engine so its better to unscrew it from the mount.....
I'm about to tackle this job. It seems to me that if the threads do strip, you could insert a longer bolt that goes out the back of the subframe, and put a bolt on it. Looks as if you'd have to grind a small bit of the frame away. I wondered if you (or anyone else) has ever tried this approach? Cheers.
I did this job, took me 2 days, 18mm long bolt on rhs was seized and had to be replaced. Hate these cars 😂👍🇮🇪 I was on the driveway, didn't have your home made tool so beat them out in the vice 😬
Oh those damn 18mm, wishbone bolts. 3-4 turns with it incredibly tight then, snap. Bolt broken so it's wioshbone console out. What should be so simple can go so wrong. Nice video @The Dutch Garage!
@@TheDutchGarage you said 120mm to someone about 3years ago... Why take the engine up before.. Didn't do that.. My right hand side went well... But the left... Instant snap. Will be a new aluminium carrier I think.. New bolt too... Love your work.. 😊 👍 😊
If they are broken then absolutely, but there are much more things that courses loose steering. Like ballpoints and inner and outer tie-rods. Just jack up te car and have a good wiggle.
@@TheDutchGarage ..jacked up car at mechanic. Silent block on left side ripped apart.. my steering wheel is very loose when I'm driving straight but corrects itself if I move the wheel slightly...do you think replacing these will help?
hi i am about to tackle the job in a few days.can u tell me the helicoil outer and inner size and the size of the drill bit.i want to use the original bolts i have spare new bolts.thanks
Well, you bushings had the middle thing still attached to the rest of the rubber, both of my bushings are just moving inside that hole where they are supposed to be attached to the rest of the rubber. I have to change them too on my VW Polo 2007. But I want to remove the bushings without removing any other parts of the car :)) Wish me luck!
@@TheDutchGarage ohh yeah, well, this will be easy in case I fuck it up 😅 Good to know. Yeah they cost more, but they will hold for another 60,000 miles or more, isn't it? My car is from 2007 and I bought it at 14,000 miles. Now it has 32,000 miles but the bushings got bad because of the age, not because of the use of the car. Right?
@@TheDutchGarage the threads were okay and easy to take out that long screw, but one of the 3 screws from the pivot, gave me a headache and I had to put the others screws back and order another pivots with the set of screws in order to cut the bad screw. It's too rusty and without cutting it, I cannot find a solution to it. At least the pivots were rusty, so now they will be brand new too, along with the bushings.
any idea what a garage asks for this? im looking at buying a mercedes slk 230 and on the technical control sheet there is a problem ( it went though the control np but its something to look out for) a
@@TheDutchGarage tx youtube.... well the car im about to buy has this issue (the 1 you fix in the video) what would it cost to let that be fixed in a garage?
Why don't you pop out the ball joint above the outer bolts? Also can you not just insert a longer bolt and put a nut on the end? Can't see the point of removing cassette to drill out and helicoil when a longer bolt and nut would work (by the looks of it)
@andypugh2000 Did you ever try this approach Andy? I've started putting release fluid on my bolts in anticipation of tackling this job, and noticed (with grinding away a bit of the subframe) the longer bolt and nut method should work. Cheers!
@@miniphase I popped out the lower ball joint both sides. I used a pry bar between the joint and struck the outside of the joint with a steel dowel and they popped open. My bolts came out okay from the cassette but I had to jack the engine. Disconnect the mount bolt and the earth strap first though.
Really helpful video. Thank you for taking time to make it. Subscribed. Can you confirm the bolt you mention early on is definitely and M12 with 1.5 mm pitch? Thinking of taking on this job but will get the correct sized helicoils in first!! Best wishes. Andy
Let me ask one questions? Why to hell you make too much work!! il just take tyres away and open those 3 small joint ball bolt and then open that 19mm bolt (4:51 bigest nightmare bolt) If you raise your car high enough you take easily this whisbone away. So my case i DONT have to take that much open what you done. And right tools you can remove and install that big bushes under your car....
Hallo, i do believe that you didn't watch the whole video. Cant blame you for that. The reason that i removed the whole "assembly" is that the treads are striped in the aluminium body. This is a really common issue with this repair. It is almost impossible to repair the treads with the "assembly" under the car and that is the reason that I removed it. And of course with the right tools it is A piece of cake. But for someone that maybe does it once in his lifetime ad home you don't want to buy the special tool.
@@TheDutchGarage You are right about this someones do it only ones at home. Like i do it too, il bought some bolts and nuts and piece of iron pipe and sheets. This home made tools cost me about 20 euros. Removing Skoda Fabia Front Suspension Bush tricks + DIY refit tool 30 714 näyttökertaa 17 11 Jaa Tallenna Tee ilmoitus  Murray Hay Removing Skoda Fabia Front Suspension Bush tricks + DIY refit tool 30 714 näyttökertaa 17 11 Jaa Tallenna Tee ilmoitus  Murray Hay
@@TheDutchGaragem.th-cam.com/video/2pFz6T80RsY/w-d-xo.html Il do it this way. And il watch your vid start to end and wondering your way to do it.... m.th-cam.com/video/gyANAX4D2lU/w-d-xo.html So i watch these videos and made ny self those tools and use both work system etc...btw i install those seat cupra bushes too
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
I just replaced the whole aluminum piece with bushing. Also had a hard time to allign the front bushing bolt.
My solution was to loosen all the 4 bolt thats holding the aluminum bracket and then install the arm and front bolt.
Then tighten all the 4 bolts and done.
Also I didn't took out the axle, there is enough room to do the job without taking it out.
Thanks for the video which helped me a lot to prepare
Great job! Glad the video helpt you out.
I have never completed this without at least one side snapping; I recommend fitting Audi A2/Ibiza Cupra solid bushes, they seem to last better than the regular voided ones.
Great tip! Glad I'm not the only one that has problems with these thing's.
I really enjoy your videos. They are very helpful. I own a skoda Felicia combi and would really like to see more videos on Felicia repairs because your channel is the only one in English.
Thank you! it is always nice to hear that my videos are helping people. I do have one video on the shelf left about the Falicia. I don't know how many i am going to make, so no promises there.
@@TheDutchGarage I'm about to tackle this job. It seems to me that if the threads do strip, you could insert a longer bolt that goes out the back of the subframe, and put a bolt on it. Looks as if you'd have to grind a small bit of the frame away. I wondered if you (or anyone else has ever tried this approach? Cheers.
Excellent. Have started this job on a Fox Urban. Fortunately the main pivot bolts have not sheared and they seem to go back in OK. I tried getting the bushings out but failed. I did not have a suitable size metal disc so cut one out of some hardwood but it got a small crack and I think this caused it to jam against the housing and the bushing/silent block did not budge and the threaded bar stripped (couldn't find a high tensile one). I have ordered a bushing removal kit which is £34 but looks well made and is a lot cheaper than a garage in London doing the job (£240 if the bolts don't shear, and that is a respected garage cheaper than a main dealer).
Yours is the only video that mentioned that you have to lift the engine to remove the bolt on the right had side so thank you for this information. I don't have a hoist so very carefully jacked it up with a block of wood under the oil pan. The trouble is that the plate that links the top engine mounting to the engine is stuck at the bottom of the thread. It has not lifted off as it shows in this video at 18.00 minutes. I am reluctant to whack it with a hammer as I don't want to damage the thread or crack the plate. I have removed the three bolts on the engine side as well but not good. I would appreciate any tips you have. If I have to I'll remove the engine mount and get a new one. Thanks for the excellent video. Here is a tip for people who need to buy a bi-hex/12 point socket to get the axle nut off....get a thin wall one! Most others are too thick as for some reason VW made the fit of this model really tight. I had to grind mine down with an angle grinder. And it took lots of penetrating fluid and a new breaker bar too! All the best.
Here is a link for people who need a bush removal kit. There are cheaper ones but perhaps not as good:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-VAG-Polo-Bushing-Tool-Bush-Remover-Replacement-Set-Silent-Blocks-/401368771252
You got one of these days my good friend. Maybe it helps to remove the 'dog bone' engine mount maybe you can just get a bit more room and if that doesn't work. the only thing i can think of is removing the oil pan. Hopefully it doesn't have to come to that.
@@TheDutchGarage Appreciate the quick reply. Until you said to lift the engine I thought I'd have to remove the oil pan anyway! Will remove the engine mount and if the connecting plate is stuck on will buy a new dog bone. About £40/£50 but still a lot cheaper than taking it to the garage. And a lot more satisfying to do it myself. Only possible thanks to people like you. I think you say to torque the pivot bolt to 50nm + 90°. The Haynes manual says 70nm + 90°, but I have had some nightmares using these books.....do you do the final tightening when the wheel is back on the ground or doesn't it matter?
Very good video
Thank you.
Well...im about to go threw the same nightmare; my wifes car just got the same problem, only the bolt is broken inside.....thanks for the video, very usefull !!
Well i'm glad that i am not the only one :-) but it just sucks.
@@TheDutchGarage It sucks big time...tomorrow is the day, hope ill fix it permanently...
@@hirayaman246 I will be rooting for you!
@@TheDutchGarage I fixed the stupid thing....i welded the remaining broken bolt so i could get it out and i managed to save the thread, used new bolts....to screw it corectly you must lift the engine so its better to unscrew it from the mount.....
@@hirayaman246 That sucks big time. Wel it is done for now.
I'm about to tackle this job. It seems to me that if the threads do strip, you could insert a longer bolt that goes out the back of the subframe, and put a bolt on it. Looks as if you'd have to grind a small bit of the frame away. I wondered if you (or anyone else) has ever tried this approach? Cheers.
That last bolt that you loosened with the universal joint is the exact one im stuck on! Kinda hard to reach it!
I did this job, took me 2 days, 18mm long bolt on rhs was seized and had to be replaced. Hate these cars 😂👍🇮🇪
I was on the driveway, didn't have your home made tool so beat them out in the vice 😬
I did this job one time in the snow on the driveway. It wasn't fun...
Oh those damn 18mm, wishbone bolts. 3-4 turns with it incredibly tight then, snap. Bolt broken so it's wioshbone console out. What should be so simple can go so wrong. Nice video @The Dutch Garage!
For some reason i'm glad tht i'm not the only one... But it SUCKS....
@@TheDutchGarage It does, console out next! If the bolt holding the console in place break as well then I'm selling it!
Good luck!
If you have trouble getting the suspension arm back In I found clamping it with a ratchet strap helped.
Good tip!
Can I replace Bush with the mounting bracket still in the car if the threads are ok?
It is definitely possible. I have done it before.
What length long rod do I need to remove the bush? Is the rod also M12 1.5 thread like the mounting bolt?
maybe 30 cm. I do believe i used a m10.
How long is that 18 mm bolt... Just snapped mine.. 😢
No😱, about 18cm I think. Good luck.
@@TheDutchGarage you said 120mm to someone about 3years ago... Why take the engine up before.. Didn't do that.. My right hand side went well... But the left... Instant snap. Will be a new aluminium carrier I think.. New bolt too... Love your work.. 😊 👍 😊
What is minimum press strength (Ton, kg) ??
Will replacing silent blocks help with my sudden loose steering and freeplay ?
If they are broken then absolutely, but there are much more things that courses loose steering. Like ballpoints and inner and outer tie-rods. Just jack up te car and have a good wiggle.
@@TheDutchGarage ..jacked up car at mechanic. Silent block on left side ripped apart.. my steering wheel is very loose when I'm driving straight but corrects itself if I move the wheel slightly...do you think replacing these will help?
@@ancientdiscoverys Yes, when these are ript the car can get very sketchy to drive especially over bumps and potholes.
hi i am about to tackle the job in a few days.can u tell me the helicoil outer and inner size and the size of the drill bit.i want to use the original bolts i have spare new bolts.thanks
The drill is a 12.5 the coil itself I don't have a clue.
@@TheDutchGarage thank you.appreciated
Hey. Great video.
The bolt you mention, the m12 1.5, how long are they?
Don'mt know for sure be 120mm I think.
@@TheDutchGarage Cool, thanks! :)
do you have a sub-frame silent block change for a MK-5 2006 VW Jetta TDI?
Sorry no video about that.
Well, you bushings had the middle thing still attached to the rest of the rubber, both of my bushings are just moving inside that hole where they are supposed to be attached to the rest of the rubber.
I have to change them too on my VW Polo 2007. But I want to remove the bushings without removing any other parts of the car :)) Wish me luck!
Good luck! Just be very careful with the treads.
@@TheDutchGarage yeah, hopefully they are not that bad, otherwise I'm screwed 😅
@@johnnymotors2023 You can buy complete arms with bushings but they cost more.
@@TheDutchGarage ohh yeah, well, this will be easy in case I fuck it up 😅 Good to know. Yeah they cost more, but they will hold for another 60,000 miles or more, isn't it? My car is from 2007 and I bought it at 14,000 miles. Now it has 32,000 miles but the bushings got bad because of the age, not because of the use of the car. Right?
@@TheDutchGarage the threads were okay and easy to take out that long screw, but one of the 3 screws from the pivot, gave me a headache and I had to put the others screws back and order another pivots with the set of screws in order to cut the bad screw. It's too rusty and without cutting it, I cannot find a solution to it.
At least the pivots were rusty, so now they will be brand new too, along with the bushings.
how much will that job cost ?
Here in the Netherland we would pay about 400 euro.
What is the reason to remove bushes
Most of the time the bushings are torn. It's a common issue on these cars.
@han0509 The aftermarket ones are also much better.
any idea what a garage asks for this? im looking at buying a mercedes slk 230 and on the technical control sheet there is a problem ( it went though the control np but its something to look out for) a
Hi there, your question isn't complete.
@@TheDutchGarage tx youtube.... well the car im about to buy has this issue (the 1 you fix in the video) what would it cost to let that be fixed in a garage?
@@gamingwithegoon 100/150 euro? I'm not that good with prices.
@@TheDutchGarage ok ty
Why don't you pop out the ball joint above the outer bolts? Also can you not just insert a longer bolt and put a nut on the end? Can't see the point of removing cassette to drill out and helicoil when a longer bolt and nut would work (by the looks of it)
@andypugh2000 Did you ever try this approach Andy? I've started putting release fluid on my bolts in anticipation of tackling this job, and noticed (with grinding away a bit of the subframe) the longer bolt and nut method should work. Cheers!
@@miniphase I popped out the lower ball joint both sides. I used a pry bar between the joint and struck the outside of the joint with a steel dowel and they popped open. My bolts came out okay from the cassette but I had to jack the engine. Disconnect the mount bolt and the earth strap first though.
Really helpful video. Thank you for taking time to make it. Subscribed. Can you confirm the bolt you mention early on is definitely and M12 with 1.5 mm pitch? Thinking of taking on this job but will get the correct sized helicoils in first!! Best wishes. Andy
Hallo, no problem. It is great that's it is helping you. Yes it is M12 1.5 Pitch. I dubbel checked het for you. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Thanks buddy! Think I'll need to set a bit of time by for this job!!
No problem my gabber! just take your time.
Bushing cost 30 and the whole console arm is only 40. I am replacing the whole thing
You're a wise man.
Bonjour, vous pourriez pas traduire cette vidéo en français svp?
Bonjour, mon français est très mauvais. Mais si tout se passe bien, vous pouvez lancer une traduction automatique à partir de TH-cam.
Let me ask one questions? Why to hell you make too much work!! il just take tyres away and open those 3 small joint ball bolt and then open that 19mm bolt (4:51 bigest nightmare bolt) If you raise your car high enough you take easily this whisbone away. So my case i DONT have to take that much open what you done. And right tools you can remove and install that big bushes under your car....
Hallo, i do believe that you didn't watch the whole video. Cant blame you for that. The reason that i removed the whole "assembly" is that the treads are striped in the aluminium body. This is a really common issue with this repair. It is almost impossible to repair the treads with the "assembly" under the car and that is the reason that I removed it. And of course with the right tools it is A piece of cake. But for someone that maybe does it once in his lifetime ad home you don't want to buy the special tool.
@@TheDutchGarage You are right about this someones do it only ones at home. Like i do it too, il bought some bolts and nuts and piece of iron pipe and sheets. This home made tools cost me about 20 euros. Removing Skoda Fabia Front Suspension Bush tricks + DIY refit tool
30 714 näyttökertaa
17
11
Jaa
Tallenna
Tee ilmoitus

Murray Hay
Removing Skoda Fabia Front Suspension Bush tricks + DIY refit tool
30 714 näyttökertaa
17
11
Jaa
Tallenna
Tee ilmoitus

Murray Hay
@@TheDutchGaragem.th-cam.com/video/2pFz6T80RsY/w-d-xo.html
Il do it this way. And il watch your vid start to end and wondering your way to do it....
m.th-cam.com/video/gyANAX4D2lU/w-d-xo.html
So i watch these videos and made ny self those tools and use both work system etc...btw i install those seat cupra bushes too
@@erkki3981 Home made for the win!
beetje wazige video....na 8 minuten had ik er wel genoeg van...
Wazig als in video kwaliteit of uitleg?
@@TheDutchGarage beetje rommelig vergeleken met anderen, ook dat Engels hoeft van mij niet zo als Hollander...
Duidelijk, Bedankt voor de feedback.