Thanks for this information Rob. I currently have a job where I intended to use 200 x 100 RSJ's for purlins spanning 4m. I then considered the practicality of installation and the potential need for a crane to get 120kg of steel in place so have reverted to 250x50 timbers to be glued and bolted together which can feasibly be installed by 1 person and no crane. and total cost of timbers will be half the price of the 2 steel beams originally planned.
Great video many thanks Robin. More videos on steels would be interesting. At the moment I'm thinking about a ridge steel for a square single dormer loft conversion. Ecotruss have interesting alternative of no ridge steel but webs where the rafter on one side joins the dormer ceiling joist. Ecotruss has the cold bridging issue to consider. Interested to know the methods to size a ridge steel, max span, installation considerations etc. Many thanks again.
Hi Robin, I have a possible video topic. I’ve seen so many videos on TH-cam of people building small cabins such as 10 foot by 12 or 14 foot. They usually have four 2 x 6’s or 2 x 8s nailed together in a rectangle and then have the floor joists running perpendicular to the longer sections. At what size does something like this stop being feasible, in other words at what point would you need to add a further 2x6/ 2x8 in the middle of the structure. When I’ve seen this down they often add another board to the outside on top of the original board to raise the height enough for the joists to sit flush on to the new centre board but it seems like this would comprise the strength of the outer boards if they’re on top of each other (poor connection?). Would the better option be just to have a centre board and cut the joists from one end to the centre on the both sides as opposed to spanning the whole floor? Cheers
Hi Liam. Steel prices are going crazy. I was just talking to a builder at the weekend and we both agreed that "in the old days" we used to just use steel without even thinking of the cost because it was so cheap!
Thanks for this information Rob. I currently have a job where I intended to use 200 x 100 RSJ's for purlins spanning 4m. I then considered the practicality of installation and the potential need for a crane to get 120kg of steel in place so have reverted to 250x50 timbers to be glued and bolted together which can feasibly be installed by 1 person and no crane. and total cost of timbers will be half the price of the 2 steel beams originally planned.
💥Grab your free steel beam information download here: geni.us/steeltables
Big fan of the videos, great visual effects!
Thanks Robin - I’ve been wondering about this.
Great info! 👍
Great video many thanks Robin. More videos on steels would be interesting. At the moment I'm thinking about a ridge steel for a square single dormer loft conversion. Ecotruss have interesting alternative of no ridge steel but webs where the rafter on one side joins the dormer ceiling joist. Ecotruss has the cold bridging issue to consider. Interested to know the methods to size a ridge steel, max span, installation considerations etc. Many thanks again.
Hi Robin, I have a possible video topic. I’ve seen so many videos on TH-cam of people building small cabins such as 10 foot by 12 or 14 foot. They usually have four 2 x 6’s or 2 x 8s nailed together in a rectangle and then have the floor joists running perpendicular to the longer sections. At what size does something like this stop being feasible, in other words at what point would you need to add a further 2x6/ 2x8 in the middle of the structure. When I’ve seen this down they often add another board to the outside on top of the original board to raise the height enough for the joists to sit flush on to the new centre board but it seems like this would comprise the strength of the outer boards if they’re on top of each other (poor connection?). Would the better option be just to have a centre board and cut the joists from one end to the centre on the both sides as opposed to spanning the whole floor? Cheers
Yes, this is why I am here. I also was curious about the difference between the real beam and people using the 'crafted' beams.
Good work but ppl should consider additional costs for the commection, bolt holes, paint, fire protection and delivery
Great point! The cost per metre is for the supply of the steel only.
Interesting. Waiting for my structural company to provide me with some drawings of a steel raft for a flat roof project.
thanks very help[ful esp with the cool diagrams 3Ds
Great video, think these prices may have changed in recent months owing to inflation and war in Ukraine. 😔
Hi Liam. Steel prices are going crazy. I was just talking to a builder at the weekend and we both agreed that "in the old days" we used to just use steel without even thinking of the cost because it was so cheap!
It should be weight per "meter" and not per "kilogram"!! Cheers
Hi Nando. Correct - that's what the video says. In the spreadsheet it does show "weight / kg" by which I just mean "weight in kg"