There’s so little bookbinding info on the internet, it makes it hard for younger people like me to learn, this channel has been a godsend tho!!
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You can probably find more about bookbinding if you search for articles or books about book history or codicology instead of going straight for book binding. It's more how it was historically made instead of a modern take, but it can show you a lot of techniques as well
What helped me learn a lot about bookbinding is watching professionals like DAS and trying my best to copy what I see in the videos. Looking back to my first attempts at making books, they were horrible and cringy, but it is so rewarding to see how far I have come skill-wise!:) There is still so much for me to learn, but what I feel is key is to keep tying to do better and learn from my (many) mistakes. Never give up!:)
DAS does proper old school bookbinding which is great. For a 'younger approach check out sea lemon's bookbinding videos. Non-traditional but pretty good for beginners.
I knew a guy who used to do that when I was a kid. It was a friend's grandfather who was retired. He had all these paperbacks that he turned into hardcover. He had shelves full of them because even the library wouldn't take them (he said he tried). Some of the old guys restored cars, others did carpentry/woodwork, this was his thing. I have to admit that I though he was doing that for books that I didn't think were worth saving, but that's what he did and it made him happy. God, I haven't though of him in years.
Great to see that a professional, taking time to show how he does his job. There is no hesitation in the steps and most of the work is done by eye or feel. as a carpenter this is the same for me. As an apprentice I would be constantly afraid of doing mistakes, but as I have gotten more experience. I’m noticing my mistakes as I’m making them, and are just working around them. Without any thought or anger. And the end result is always better. I love to watch old crafts by craftsmen. And you are a without doubt a craftsman. I understand your frustration in using your experience and time in turning a worthless pocket book to a leatherback. But to comfort you. This is pure entertainment for me.
Thanks! I love watching other craftspeople work too. I may have no intensions of ever using the technical skills being demonstrated, but watching the efficiency of movement, work flow, and their style of demonstration is always interesting and an opportunity to learn and improve. All the best, Darryn
I've been trying to learn how to become a hobbyist bookbinder for a little while now... And this was one of the greatest tutorials I've seen!!!!!! Thank you!!!
I have a cheap copy of Gormenghast that I first read in high school. It is now crumbling in my hands. But when you talk about your love of that favorite old book, it made me smile. We love books because we read them. We want them to last forever. They become like family. Good video
3:am I m watching a craftsman bind a book , and I have no idea how I got here nor thought I’d watch any of it let alone till the end,, well done sir , this is really interesting, Informative, and thanks for sharing your craft
Thank you so much, you too Linda. I have been wanting to have the feel of an old Gothic library but could never find or afford to buy all hard covered books I want even at thrift shops. This will be a nice project one year. Great information.
There is something to be said to just wanting to make your books look or feel a certain way. It’s not always to mimic them being older or more expensive or to assume that you’re making them more sturdy or that they will last forever. Sometimes it’s just that you want to make them fit your bookshelf or personality better.
I agree , I want to rebind my paperback books , Why ? Not to make them look older ,but to make them last longer . I care about these books , I want them forever, "put some respect on the books"
Two minutes of watching this video (the first time I've seen any of your videos) and I'm subscribed. Many years ago a man transferred a paperback copy of Huckleberry Finn to a hardcover for me. He didn't charge me a nickle for the job. That book will be cared for as long as I live and hopefully will be passed on to my children and theirs. I do love books. A lot. Thank you so much!
I am glad that you, a professional, did this video. I have watched the same videos by amateurs and the amount of rookie mistakes are uncountable, yet people are applauding them like they did some kind of masterpiece. You have to learn from a master of the trade or you'll end up picking bad habits and do a mediocre job. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. Much appreciated.
I have a really thick copy of _The Lord of the Rings_ in paperback, and I had thought about utilizing the pre existing cover, so thank you so much for showing a method for that! I'm really exited for how it might turn out!
The 4th book binding video I have watched ever great job I’ve enjoyed watching this from soft back to hardback and great information thanks for sharing 😇😎
I have the same issue. I have a paperback that ive had for over a decade. Its one of my favourite books in general, but the particular copy i have is a very sentimental item itself. Over the years of re-reading its falling apart. So i want to make it a hardcover. Your the first person ive found that actually shows the process tho.
Before using this method, check out my latest video which preserves the original covers. If it's falling apart you will need to use the double-fan method to put it back together. Good luck! DAS
Wow! Never thought of doing this way. I always took book apart in similar projects. But really want to try this way now. Thank you for your videos and inspiration!
Thank you! My best friend gave me their childhood books for me to rebind so that they can last. I'm going to follow this video to do so. The covers are *mostly* intact, just heavily creased and scratched. Using part of the covers is a wonderful way to keep the soul in the books
Another gem! I can see all of the hard work you put into making these videos. They are all easy to understand and a pleasure to watch. Really incredible. I also greatly appreciate that you consciously use tools and equipment that a novice bookmaker might have on hand. It makes the projects seem much more achievable. Can't wait to see the video next week!
I tried this in 1986 in my teens, but used bog oak veneers cut to 3mm thickness, I glued using horse glue and hand engraved the title and used gold leaf embossing. The book was Orwell’s animal farm printed in 1946. 35 years later and it’s still intact. I didn’t know it at the time but apparently this first edition print is very rare. The oak is still good too.
I am a bookbinder also. Only a real master can make such a beautiful book with the tools and techniques that I usually see. I have learned a lot, thank you!
What an absolute pleasure to watch! Thank you for these videos! I am currently also trying to protect paperback books from my childhood while displaying them in my home!
Howdy from Texas! I'm an indie author and followed your videos to make custom leatherbound books out of print on demand paperbacks. They are turning out great and I'm learning a lot about the process through doing it myself. The foiling is especially difficult hahaha. Anyways just wanted to say thanks for your videos!
Great video. I love the use of cord to mimic a proper rounded and backed book. A technique I have used when repairing/ converting paperbacks is to make some saw cuts through the spine of the perfect binding and glue in some thin linen threads. Then when i cover that with fraynot it really keeps the binding from falling apart as a lot of perfect bindings are flimsy.
I don't remember if I mentioned that the false shoulders come from the famous binder Thomas Harrison. I'm guessing you mean Lumbecking or double-fan binding as Perfect binding is machine binding that isn't worth trying to replicate by hand. I've gone off inserting cord in the spine of Lumbecked books. If the spine is going to be fragile for some reason, such as a thick book I might still do it. Years ago when I did many of these, I eventually had a few very well used books, such as cookbooks, come back to me. Ones I hadn't put cords into the spine were easily cleaned off and rebound. But if I'd inserted cords it was harder to Lumbeck them again without trimming the spine a bit. So I figure without the cord the book might need rebinding sooner if it is heavily used, but the spine edges remain in good condition. But a lot of books never get read and it doesn't matter. That's where I'm at with this. But I might change if someone has strong evidence that it is better.
Wow! Your final product is amazingly impressive and beautiful. Truthfully, I am amazed that the resulting book, so beautiful externally, if I didn’t miss something, still depends on the quality of the original spine glue that I have so often seen releasing the pages from loved paperbacks. Thank you for freely sharing your craft! I still want to learn how to create the beautiful titleblocks for the spine, and perhaps even embossed on the face.
Thinking more about this before retiring for my night, I expected small holes to be drilled through the book along the spine behind the binding glue to permit binding the pages together more securely.
The 2 primary ways a book opens are the drape of the paper and the spine curving up. Ideally it is a combination of both balanced in a way suitable to the materials the books is made of. Any form of side stitching means the spine can't curve up and the only mechanism allowing the book to open is the bending of the paper. The paper used in most paperbacks is not suited to being the only opening mechanism for a book. So, no I wouldn't do that. The adhesive used in post 1950s commercial books is a huge topic. I think the best approach is to leave well enough alone, and deal with it when it does fail. But that is sort of true for all bookbinding.
Good videos, I've been using a similar method of turning trade paperbacks into leather bound volumes. I do a couple of things differently. Firstly before cutting the cover to make slips I glue on a sheet of mull or fray-not over the cover extending an inch or more on both sides. This makes the joint a bit more viable. I've done books twenty years ago in this manner that have been heavily used and are still as good as ever. Secondly I don't use stick on head and tail bands . Instead I achieve a nice head and tail cap by glueing in an inside out raised band to fold the turn in leather over at head and tail. Also when using french grooves you don't ever need to bevel the boards, in fact the leather will go on a lot neater if you keep the boards square cut.
Your point about bevelling the boards, I think you mean the back cornering, because I don't remember bevelling the boards especially at the joint. It's an interesting point. I think I did this out of habit with doing a lot of springbacks in the last few years. But my very first book a long time ago was a rounded and backed book with a French groove, and I was not taught to do back corners then - though it was with cloth. My gut tells me this will result in a vulnerable sharp corner. But if this was the case 19th century library bindings would be back cornered. But checking Johnson now he does not appear to back corner in his library style bindings. I think I'll add a note to these videos pointing this out and suggesting it is optional and may be more aesthetically pleasing without. Thanks! DAS
Thanks for this demo. I have a set of softbacks to convert and it will be my first venture into using leather binding. I have taken an interest in your cutting boards and especially your cutting tools for leather. One thing I have learned about bookbinding is that tips and tricks are all important!
as a beginner bookbinder I absolutely adore your channel, it has helped me so much! I've only bound 4 or five books so far, but it's my goal to eventually bind leather books in that classic style (and learn all the vocabulary you use in your videos haha). Thank you for the help!
Your videos make me so happy. I've loved books for so long, and it wasn't until I was rereading Inkheart that I realized that this is something I would love to learn how to do. Thank you for sharing your art with us :)
A very timely posting, thank you. I am investigating methods of recovering an 1897 edition of a law book. The covers are off. It is rounded and still has good shoulders so raised bands will look nice on it. I will look at your video on split board bindings as well. This will be in full leather and I’ve been asked to put in marbled endpapers as there were just plain paper endpapers originally. I so,appreciate your videos, I’m still on a steep learning curve and your videos are making me a better binder
Hi Cynthia. I highly recommend following the cloth library binding rather than this video. Also, the raised bands make this binding more complicated than I would like. The more I think about it, I think you should do it as a cased binding. Then you can do the bands and finishing off the book. If anything goes wrong you can redo it. Good luck! Darryn
I‘m so happy I found this! I just managed to find a second-hand version online of an out-of-print wishlist book of mine (an encyclopedia about plants in folklore!) and it‘s a softcover. I‘m excited to learn how to prolong its life from you! Thanks for filming this!
Thanks so much for this tutorial. I recently bought a hard-cover book from a university press, and was disappointed to receive a perfect-bound text block with an ill-fitting hard cover. The cover creaked and ripped away more and more from the text block every time I opened it. The spine seemed to be too wide for the thickness of the text block. Eventually, I just pulled it off. I've been looking for a way to make a better cover since then. The book still has heavy card stock waste sheets (almost like a soft cover within the hard cover), so I think this method will work.
Good luck. This method relies of a well attached original cover as the insert for the split-board. You'll have to attach new ones for this purpose. The glue used on the spine of these types of books is notoriously difficult to adhere to. I've had to completely remove the original heat activated adhesive and rebind using the double-fan to then move forward. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding - It's an oddly-constructed book. When I pulled off the hard case, it was like I was left with a soft cover book. The end pages are thick card stock that wrap the spine, so there's no exposed glue.
Really helpful video. I've seen some people use toilet paper or plastic wrap tubes to create the impression of rounded spines. I don't have any paperback I want to recover, but this is very helpful and informative just the same. Love your videos!
Your books are all so beautiful! I kinda fell down this rabbit hole because I want to bind a physical copy of something I wrote. I’ve done case bindings before, but they were super amateurish. I can only dream of having a book as beautiful as the ones you bind!
My group decide to follow the idea of converting a paperback by using the split board method. We weren't too bothered about the leather work but followed the concept until then. It was quite correct that the cover needed to be in good condition and well attached to the text block. One member, with her 2nd book, tried it with a weak cover which detached from the book. The solution was to put a piece of fraynot round the spine onto the tongues. We thought the results were good. It's an interesting concept to stick the leaher with PVA - far harder than making some flour and water paste and using that! Thank you for the tutorial as always.
I made a cord bound book out of an old paperback that was falling apart. Used tissue paper and glue to turn the pages into signatures. The round easily absorbed the extra thickness.
Oh hey, you put out a guide just as I put out my imgur tutorial. I'm excited to see how much I screwed up compared to your method! Ah yes, I tried to do this and I screwed up the split board so bad I went with a different method. I like this method! The only time this won't work is when the spine is crooked from the get go. I decided to go with scraping off the glue, removing the cover, and doing a perfect bind with PVA. I couldn't do a Lumbeck (tried, failed) because the factory glue was impossible to clean off without making a huge wavy/curved mess out of the text block.
I thought of doing something like that, but using the same method used to make rounded fronts on clamshells. 2 problems, the stiff spine makes the book difficult to open and it looks a bit strange with the rounded spine but flat fore-edge. Everything is a compromise in bookbinding.
Absolutely fantastic - as usual. I have some old paper back text books that are losing their covers and exposing the text, but they are printed on good quality paper; and so they should they were expensive enough. I was considering deconstructing them as they are printed on signatures but I don’t know if the signatures are sewn together as a text block. This solution just fits the bill exactly and will save me a lot of unnecessary deconstruction - many thanks. P.S. it was your videos that inspired me to attempt to rebind them in the first place.
Good luck! If they are in sections I would just do a test to see if you can get the spine adhesive off, maybe with some heat. Just a small test, just enough to see if you can. If so then I would recommend do a cloth covered library binding with proper rounding and backing. I'd also recommend giving the false bands a miss. All the best, DAS
Thank you so much for starting this series! I’ve been wanting to reuse text blocks so that I can avoid having to go through the trouble of printing (and maybe the threading too, ha!). As a hobbyist most of the books I’ve bound have been blank journals, but now I want to apply some creativity to the covers of classic books. I think this tutorial will be the perfect starting point. I really appreciate how you make your tutorials. Especially when you give measurements in context and explain in a way that can be universally applicable to different projects. I can’t wait for part 2!
I hope it's not disappointing. I would only apply this technique to softcover books that are perfect bound and the binding is solid. To rebind a nice book I think I would try and pull the book back to sections/signatures and resew and do a nicer binding. All the best, DAS
I wanna learn to do this so I can convert my dark tower box set to hardcover. Seems like something fun to do since I like working with my hands. Thanks for the guide.👍
That's okay, but think hard about it. I bet they are beautiful books already. Putting them in a hardcover doesn't make them last longer or better to read.
I have a thick book on the American Civil War that was given to me when I was a kid, and it kickstarted my interest in history. The spine has been falling apart for several years now, so I've been hesitant to enjoy it lest I make the damage any worse. Now I've got a plan, thanks to you!
Or check out my other video where I retain the original covers and spine. Or wait until I do a video on how to repair to original. Just not enough hours in the day.... Ciao, DAS
I enjoyed this video. Thank you for keeping this craft alive for another generation. I never realized how many parts there are to a book! Would it be possible to post a series of videos on the basic tools and materials of the trade to distinguish basic (me) to advanced (future me) so I don’t get overwhelmed or go broke unnecessarily? Thank you again!
In the comments there is a link to the guide for the channel. In it you should find a link to a tools video. Don't spend too much! th-cam.com/video/FBGfRTnBUNk/w-d-xo.html
Hello there. Thank you for this video. Very much appreciated in an era where "go online..." are generally the first words when you see information on any topic. As a planner lover. Every year I spend a considerable amount of time each year finding a planner the will work for the new year. There seems to be less leather book type planners and more coil or binder types. This year I have identified what I would consider the "ideal planner". White pages, the month view comes just before the weekly appointments. There is plenty of room to jot down notes and impressions. The problem is that the cover is not elegant. It is plastic and there is really no smooth way to add ribbons. This year, the planner was most appealing on the outside but not as functional as I would have liked in the inside. I considered reusing/recycling the old planner cover attached to this years planner for next year, however the books are different sizes and I cannot user the cover this year for next. Do you have any ideas on how I may replace the plastic cover with the coil to something more professional and elegant with a harder more leather like feel that I can possibly personalize with gold lettering?
Coil bound "books" are hard to do anything with because of the perforations along the spine edges. You can cut them off and do a double-fan binding. But not really durable enough for an annual planner. Good luck! DAS
I am glad that you fold those sheets of paper that you glue on. I just know that I would set that sheet aside and invariably put something on top of it. :)
It seems to a fairly widely done thing by bookbinders. I was certainly taught to do it. If you are going loose focus on a waste sheet with adhesive on it, always fold it. Sometimes you will use the same sheet repeatedly, maybe moving back an inch each time you glue something, but in this case you are always focused on it. DAS
As usually Fantastic! Indeed, this is the best way to preserve an old perfect bounded paperback . In order to improve back durability, I could dear to suggest sawing the back with sawcuts at an angle of 45o to the back and insert linen twine or polyester crocket threads and then to proceed as you did. (Full process @ Banister, Manly: “The Craft of Bookbinding”; pp 127 - 131). I have tested it and it gives much strength to the back. I seize the opportunity to say a huge thanks for your videos and instructions. This is a live school of bookbinding of an extremely high value by a great Professor. We owe you a lot!
Hi! Thanks for your comments. I wouldn't recommend this for the long term preservation of paperbacks. It's just for show. If I was removing the original hot melt adhesive I might but in cords, as per what I say about it in the Lumbeck video. As I say in that video some people feel it actually reduces long term stability by reducing throw-up of the spine and thus the book becomes more reliant on the drape of the paper. Banister follows mostly standard technique, but I would recommend Town, Burdett, or Johnson in preference. All the best, Darryn
As to lack of "roundness" of the spine: When you make your "tube", could you not fold it around a sliver of wood? It would need to be flat on one side, with a slight curve on the other. (in cross section, like a thin letter "D") I guess you'd need to wrap it in wax paper so it isn't permanently glued inside the tube. Remove the wood just before the gold foil application. To avoid having to make a new "sliver" for every book thickness, they could be made in 3 pieces. Only the 2 sides would need to be curved. The center would just be a flat spacer of the width required.
An unsupported hollow would be too easily damaged. It is common to put a rounded "spine" on book boxes to make them look like books. Just sand some board to the right shape. I experimented with this, but to my eye having a rounded spine while the fore-edge was square was very jarring and I didn't like it. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding I'm afraid I don't understand. I have old (hard back) books that look like they were put together in the way I suggested. I can stick my little finger in some of them between the actual binding, and the inside of the (spine) cover when opened. Isn't that spine unsupported, then? (These books are not nessassarily LEATHER bound) Keep in mind I have NO knowledge on this subject. I just happened to see this thumbnail, and click on it, as I have several books that I WISH I could've gotten in hardback. I suspected there would be something wrong with my assumption, or someone with expertise would be using my idea already. I just can't figure why there would be a problem. Edit: What if you glued a strip of leather to the spine that is WIDER than the book thickness before gluing on your "tube"? Could that take care of your aesthetic concern, and also eliminate the need for the cords you glue on later? Haha... Now I'm even wondering if the tube ITSELF couldn't be made of thin leather. On thicker books the underside flaps could be butted together in the center, instead of overlapping each other.
@@lawr5764 Maybe I misunderstood. Your suggestion is to add a hollow to the spine that has a gap even when the book is closed. On books with a hollow spine this gap/hollow is totally closed when the book is closed. When a book is open being read people are being careful with it and the cover of the spine is usually not damaged. But an open hollow on the spine all the time is sure to get crushed in normal handling. Plus you have the issue of a book being rounded at the spine but not the fore-edge which I think doesn't look right. DAS
@@DASBookbinding I have books where the spine has a small gap, even when the book is closed. They look a bit worn, but I've had some of them over 45 years. I think you answered my last post before I went back and added more to it.
I apologise in advance for part 2. I remember when I lived in WI and I was trying to follow the Packers. They'd look like they were on their way to the SB, and then Favre would get the ball and throw wildly. Part 2 gives me that same feeling. I don;t want to put you off, but I'll make it up to you in another video. Take care, Darryn
I like what you have done here (and in part 2). My reason for wanting to convert a paperback , you notice I didn't say into a hardcover, is that I like my reading to fit into my coat pocket. This means when I get my latest history book at 3" thick it needs splitting into 4, or maybe 3), separate volumes. I have the idea, but no real idea of how to execute it, of essentially turning it into a boxed set with the cover of the box being mostly the original covers and spine. :)
3:30 Is it possible to save the original cover by heating the original binding glue to soften it and then slowly pull it off the book without loosening the binding? Or does that glue not soften again once it's set? Ah! You do say that at 10:35 - I just type comments while I watch the video so that I don't forget. Is there a video perhaps from this attempt? Were the book's pages kept pressed, e.g. using some sort of clamps, when the binding glue was being heated? Using something like the one 12:01 or some wood-working clamps. That's a really nice press by the way! I have some cheap textbooks that, from being such, because the get used often, the more they are used, the sooner their spine falls apart. I'd love to be able to convert these to paperbacks with a slightly thicker covers and a hollow spine. Paperbacks with a tube in their spine are so much nicer to use but unfortunately most publishers do not use this method of binding. I cannot understand why not given that it's not that much more expensive.
Nope, no video on removing hot glue. It's a bit hit and miss and you need to be ready to change tack quickly and often mechanical intervention is required. Very easy to destroy books doing it and I don't want to encourage that:) Not sure I've seen too many soft covers with hollow spines. It would be much more expensive to make. Book production is completely driven by cost rather than resulting book quality.
Thanks for that @@DASBookbinding. I guess I could try it on a book that is not worth the paper it's printed on and find out. I suspect though that the book's age will matter on how easy or possible it will be to soften the glue - I guess in the older ones the glue would have degraded over the years. I am intrigued about the fact that hollow-spined softbacks cost much more than regular softbacks. Why is that? Aren't the former the same as the latter with a just jacket that has been glued only on the two covers? Now that I think of it, it's seems like a whole extra process requiring extra machines but assuming these are available, how much more would it cost? To narrow this down somewhat, a lot of textbooks out there come with an option of either hardback or softback binding. A typical case would be, say a textbook worth 25 GBP softbound but 45 GBP hardbound. At these prices, I should think the buyer would be entitled to expect a better quality softbound. At the end of the day though, most would not care about this nor care to look after their books. For both the customer and the publisher books are often nothing more than a commodity, thus price is a huge factor in either ones decisions.
Aesthetically, I like what you've done here. It does have some practical advantages as well, given that it does preserve the original spine adhesive, and reduces the need for rebinding this element, particularly if the original adhesive isn't compromising durability, and the original cover isn't important enough to preserve. However, if it is a consideration to preserve the cover and to add a rounded spine, then you might interested in Peter Godwin's video. He removes the original adhesive, rebacks the book, (including rounding), delaminates the original cover, and glues it to buckram covers. It also is a nice effect with certain other practical advantages.
I wish I had Peter's video on this. It doesn't appear to be available any more. When I first started thinking about this months ago I looked for it and couldn't find it. Yes, if you pull the book you can round it, in which case I wouldn't use this technique. I thought this was going to be a simpler approach, but I'm not sure any more:) All the best, Darryn
19:21 Is there a video for repairing bent or bashed corners? I have only thought of using epoxy/instant glue or perhaps some starch glue but I'm afraid of causing more damage (e.g. water stains, swelling) or making the corners too hard and thus more fragile.
I recently got the entire Bridgerton series (8 main books) in paperback but the modern covers are definitely not my style. This kind of gives me an idea of what I want, but I am leaning more towards fabric rather than leather. That choice is primarily a sensory thing.
Huh, using the existing cover for the board attachment is pretty clever. Not what I would do (I'd cut the spine off and double fan the pages) but certainly a good option for a novice. That trick with the cord shoulders is very clever, it solves a problem I'm going to have soon. An old schoolfriend has commissioned me to rebind her set of Harry Potter books in half leather; I'd planned to do a library binding, assuming they would be sewn in signatures, but it turns out that even though they're hardback the textblocks are perfect bound. My plan of attack was to cut off the spines, double fan the textblocks with a slight round (jogging them against a curved surface before clamping up for gluing), tip on endpages with waste sheets, glue on a sturdy cloth spine lining (muslin or ticking) that overlaps onto the waste sheets, then proceed with split board attachment as normal. The problem I couldn't figure out was how to avoid the board standing proud of the spine due to the lack of a shoulder, but using a piece of cord might solve that. My other idea was to shape the spine edge of the board so it tapers to a point and continues the round, then glue it to the waste sheet flush with the edge for a tight joint (cloth lining going over the top) to avoid the shoulder problem all together, but I think I'd need to get very clever with the hollow to make that open nicely. Given me something to think about.
Hi Ed. It seemed like a good idea and went well in the prototype. Now I'm not sure it's simpler. Putting the false bands on really complicated it. Removing the spine has a huge advantage of being able to double-fan with some round. If you time it just right so the adhesive is still tacky you can usually put shoulders on a book done this way too. Much easier in a bindery with a backer. I'll be glad once this project is behind me:) All the best, Darryn
That was an excellent video! Made me appreciate the bookbinders so much more! You make it look extremely simple, but I can immediately tell its not! (I was stuck in a trance through a lot of the video, it's almost ASMR-ily hypnotic!)
I’ve been thinking of using light wood to make some book shaped boxes with heirloom covers to keep my paper backs in. It would make my library more aesthetically consistent. Maybe find a way to line them in a fire proof material.
That is a lot of work for paperbacks. Clamshell enclosures is the way to go. Use a high quality binders board like Davey board, not wood. Wood is very acidic and needs barriers to stop migration. You can shape the spine to make it round and it really looks book like. But adds significant extra work. Good luck!
You talked about the 'lack of round' on the binding of the book - could you add a thin, rounded panel to give the appearance of that on the modern binding?
I experimented with using a rounded spine piece - like I occasionally use on a clam-shell box. It looked okay closed but then looked funny when the book opened. Also, I didn't;t like how the rounded look at the spine wasn't matched with a rounded fore-edge. I did try softening the glue of the spine and rounding the book, but wrecked many books trying to do this. Fail. But it can be done and if you like the look you should do it. All the best, DAS
I know what you mean. I prefer hard backs too but sometimes a paperback is all that is available. But that is far better than ebooks. I just can't read on a screen. I like the feel and look of a book.
Do you think it would be doable to cut the cover completely off, minus the spine, glue some cardstock to the spine to replace your turn-ins made from the cover? I would love to glue the actual cover to the outside of the front cover when it's done.
Can you show us how to put leather on the corners of a quarter-bound book that is then covered in decorative paper? How does one bring the paper up to the leather on the corners and cut it correctly? Thanks much!
Half bound book. I have leather corners on this book th-cam.com/video/FM1xH5nICU8/w-d-xo.html In this one I infill under the board cloth (using paper would be the same). There is another approach I haven't demonstrated where you blind in lines where the cloth/paper overlaps the leather and bring the cover material up close the edge of the blind line. It's a nice effect. I'll get that one day. DAS
I've bound a few books (sewing, rounding, backing, leather/cloth, etc.), but I've always wondered about how to work with perfect binding. The issue I see more often than not is pages falling out. Sure it's easy enough to tip them back in, but there are some that are beyond that. Any suggestions for working with severely degraded spine on perfect bound books?
Wouldn't it be worthwhile, since one is putting such effort into the binding, to have the book de-acidified first, in order to prevent further browning and deterioration of the paper?
De-acidification is a complex subject. For a start, if I just want to put a paperback in hard cover I'd use the Bradel case method I show in another video. This project was a for a specific scenario. It was for a reprint of an old book to make it look sort of old. These reprints done in the last 20 years are usually done on quality paper that is not acidic. Not all books with a soft cover are done with cheap paper. Dover use really good paper for example. Sophia nails the answer in her blog post saveyourbooks.com/studentforum/deacidification-of-book-pages/
I've seen other less serious bookbinders use vinyl tubes cut into sections to make rounded backs. Or at least something that looks like a rounded back. Wonder if that would work combined with this technique.
This project is already pushing the limits of traditional bookbinding but I do try and allow the book to function as intended. Just putting a rounded ridged shape on the spine stops the spine of the book from functioning, if I understand what you're saying. You can do it, but it's a bad idea.
I have so many interests that I'll frequently create one or two of something then go on to the next thing. Like bookbinding. A *very* long time ago (late 70's maybe,) I rebound a perfect bound book of my sister's that I'd just about worn out with re-reading. If you think bookbinding info is scarce now, imagine what it was like then. However, one tip I picked up, which you may already know but perhaps wasn't applicable for this book re: rounding the spine. I took took the book completely apart, squared up the pages, put it in the press with the spine proud then rubbed a piece of 2" masking tape down on the spine. Removed it from the press, carefully created the shape it should have (poke a finger in the fore edge and it kind of naturally went that way,) stuck it back in the press with the spine proud again, and proceeded to glue the h*ll out of it. Best I know, that book is still in one piece.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, this is common in small commercial operations. There is a double-fan machine that has different sized rounds that you can use if you want rounded Lumbecked book. Or you can cut a bit of PVC pipe. It was a step more than I wanted to go in this video. Happy binding! DAS
What do you think of applying a wider linen strip at 12:00 so that it would go around the corner to reinforce the paper hinge? I enjoyed your video and think I will try the process on some books I want to hand down. My books are of acid free paper, just not bound the way I like them. Thanks, JIM
You would have to adjust the width of the gap to the split board and reduce the size of the artificial shoulder. So you could do it. But the inner joint doesn't have the same fragility of a cased book with paper endpapers. The boards are attached by the original covers which are usually fairly robust. Then it is reinforced by the spine lining and the boards are also held on with the leather covering. So I'm not sure it's necessary. Ciao, DAS
I love seeing all the different techniques that are used,but do you know of a way to create a hard cover without having to remove or cut up the original book cover? Any advice or suggestions? I really like some of the original covers and would like to preserve them as well.
I have a video where I put the original covers on the outside of the case. Trying to put a case over the original covers and keeping them accessible is problematic. The case has to attach somehow and that will involve covering something, at least the spine.
this is a great idea for my books . but can you make another video preserving the original cover of the book? i would like to preserve the covers. thank you 💞
So this is where my midnight youtube adventure leads me to today. Sweet.
It was 11:58 as I clicked on this video
Happy watch until 4am
01:22 here
Follow me to more Midnight TH-cam ventures! I will be your guide!
same, 2:30 here :)
There’s so little bookbinding info on the internet, it makes it hard for younger people like me to learn, this channel has been a godsend tho!!
You can probably find more about bookbinding if you search for articles or books about book history or codicology instead of going straight for book binding. It's more how it was historically made instead of a modern take, but it can show you a lot of techniques as well
What helped me learn a lot about bookbinding is watching professionals like DAS and trying my best to copy what I see in the videos. Looking back to my first attempts at making books, they were horrible and cringy, but it is so rewarding to see how far I have come skill-wise!:) There is still so much for me to learn, but what I feel is key is to keep tying to do better and learn from my (many) mistakes. Never give up!:)
DAS does proper old school bookbinding which is great. For a 'younger approach check out sea lemon's bookbinding videos. Non-traditional but pretty good for beginners.
I do appreciate that you show your mistakes. It makes me feel less of a numpty when I do the same thing.
Hi John. You're certainly not a numpty! All the best! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Probably not but when you cut your corner 1 - 1.5 mm too close to the book board you do tend to wonder! LOL
Numpty! Now thats a word ive never heard! I like it lol.
Just be more careful and you won’t make mistakes
@Deangelo Brentley nobody cares
I knew a guy who used to do that when I was a kid. It was a friend's grandfather who was retired. He had all these paperbacks that he turned into hardcover. He had shelves full of them because even the library wouldn't take them (he said he tried). Some of the old guys restored cars, others did carpentry/woodwork, this was his thing. I have to admit that I though he was doing that for books that I didn't think were worth saving, but that's what he did and it made him happy. God, I haven't though of him in years.
Great to see that a professional, taking time to show how he does his job. There is no hesitation in the steps and most of the work is done by eye or feel. as a carpenter this is the same for me. As an apprentice I would be constantly afraid of doing mistakes, but as I have gotten more experience. I’m noticing my mistakes as I’m making them, and are just working around them. Without any thought or anger. And the end result is always better. I love to watch old crafts by craftsmen. And you are a without doubt a craftsman. I understand your frustration in using your experience and time in turning a worthless pocket book to a leatherback. But to comfort you. This is pure entertainment for me.
Thanks! I love watching other craftspeople work too. I may have no intensions of ever using the technical skills being demonstrated, but watching the efficiency of movement, work flow, and their style of demonstration is always interesting and an opportunity to learn and improve. All the best, Darryn
I've been trying to learn how to become a hobbyist bookbinder for a little while now... And this was one of the greatest tutorials I've seen!!!!!! Thank you!!!
I have a cheap copy of Gormenghast that I first read in high school. It is now crumbling in my hands.
But when you talk about your love of that favorite old book, it made me smile.
We love books because we read them. We want them to last forever. They become like family.
Good video
3:am I m watching a craftsman bind a book , and I have no idea how I got here nor thought I’d watch any of it let alone till the end,, well done sir , this is really interesting, Informative, and thanks for sharing your craft
Samee!
3:57
You, sir, have just saved my paperback bibles!
Thank you so much, you too Linda. I have been wanting to have the feel of an old Gothic library but could never find or afford to buy all hard covered books I want even at thrift shops. This will be a nice project one year. Great information.
There is something to be said to just wanting to make your books look or feel a certain way. It’s not always to mimic them being older or more expensive or to assume that you’re making them more sturdy or that they will last forever. Sometimes it’s just that you want to make them fit your bookshelf or personality better.
I agree , I want to rebind my paperback books , Why ? Not to make them look older ,but to make them last longer . I care about these books , I want them forever, "put some respect on the books"
Two minutes of watching this video (the first time I've seen any of your videos) and I'm subscribed.
Many years ago a man transferred a paperback copy of Huckleberry Finn to a hardcover for me. He didn't charge me a nickle for the job. That book will be cared for as long as I live and hopefully will be passed on to my children and theirs.
I do love books. A lot. Thank you so much!
Enjoyed the video. It's almost an ASMR video. I appreciated that the sound was left on during the whole video.
I am glad that you, a professional, did this video. I have watched the same videos by amateurs and the amount of rookie mistakes are uncountable, yet people are applauding them like they did some kind of masterpiece. You have to learn from a master of the trade or you'll end up picking bad habits and do a mediocre job. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. Much appreciated.
Don't know why, but TH-cam is full of videos of people binding without a clue.... I wonder if parachuting has this problem?
I have a really thick copy of _The Lord of the Rings_ in paperback, and I had thought about utilizing the pre existing cover, so thank you so much for showing a method for that! I'm really exited for how it might turn out!
So happy to have new videos I'm rewatching the old ones for inspiration
There is a lot of subtlety in this art and your explanations are great. Thank you for this.
I was working on turning one of my beloved paperbacks into a hardback and I was doing it right!! This video is awesome!!
The 4th book binding video I have watched ever great job I’ve enjoyed watching this from soft back to hardback and great information thanks for sharing 😇😎
Preserving past and present art for future generations...
Thank you for sharing your GIFT...
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You're an amazing artist..!
Thank you! Cheers! DAS
I have the same issue. I have a paperback that ive had for over a decade. Its one of my favourite books in general, but the particular copy i have is a very sentimental item itself. Over the years of re-reading its falling apart. So i want to make it a hardcover. Your the first person ive found that actually shows the process tho.
Before using this method, check out my latest video which preserves the original covers. If it's falling apart you will need to use the double-fan method to put it back together. Good luck! DAS
Wow! Never thought of doing this way. I always took book apart in similar projects. But really want to try this way now. Thank you for your videos and inspiration!
I think Linda originally suggested it to me as an idea. It was such a good idea that I decided to follow up on it. All the best, DAS
Thank you! My best friend gave me their childhood books for me to rebind so that they can last. I'm going to follow this video to do so. The covers are *mostly* intact, just heavily creased and scratched. Using part of the covers is a wonderful way to keep the soul in the books
Thank you for talking us through the whole process! It seems so do-able when explained this way.
I've been looking for this tutorial for months now. A decent looking quality conversion without too much frills. Thank you
The split board attachment is a bit complex. I also have a simpler version. Ciao, DAS
@@DASBookbinding i actually bingewatched a fair few video's after this one. Really informative, love your style.
Another gem! I can see all of the hard work you put into making these videos. They are all easy to understand and a pleasure to watch. Really incredible. I also greatly appreciate that you consciously use tools and equipment that a novice bookmaker might have on hand. It makes the projects seem much more achievable.
Can't wait to see the video next week!
The goal was to do something a novice can do. This project gets a bit hairy in part 2 which I'm not happy about:( All the best, DAS
I tried this in 1986 in my teens, but used bog oak veneers cut to 3mm thickness, I glued using horse glue and hand engraved the title and used gold leaf embossing. The book was Orwell’s animal farm printed in 1946. 35 years later and it’s still intact. I didn’t know it at the time but apparently this first edition print is very rare. The oak is still good too.
DUDE!!! I have the complete series on DVD, and I've watched it three times already! Excellent choice to convert to hardcover! :)
I am a bookbinder also.
Only a real master can make such a beautiful book with the tools and techniques that I usually see. I have learned a lot, thank you!
What an absolute pleasure to watch! Thank you for these videos! I am currently also trying to protect paperback books from my childhood while displaying them in my home!
I’ve been looking for a decent guy for this for so long, yours is the best I’ve seen by far.
Howdy from Texas! I'm an indie author and followed your videos to make custom leatherbound books out of print on demand paperbacks. They are turning out great and I'm learning a lot about the process through doing it myself. The foiling is especially difficult hahaha. Anyways just wanted to say thanks for your videos!
Great video. I love the use of cord to mimic a proper rounded and backed book. A technique I have used when repairing/ converting paperbacks is to make some saw cuts through the spine of the perfect binding and glue in some thin linen threads. Then when i cover that with fraynot it really keeps the binding from falling apart as a lot of perfect bindings are flimsy.
I don't remember if I mentioned that the false shoulders come from the famous binder Thomas Harrison. I'm guessing you mean Lumbecking or double-fan binding as Perfect binding is machine binding that isn't worth trying to replicate by hand. I've gone off inserting cord in the spine of Lumbecked books. If the spine is going to be fragile for some reason, such as a thick book I might still do it. Years ago when I did many of these, I eventually had a few very well used books, such as cookbooks, come back to me. Ones I hadn't put cords into the spine were easily cleaned off and rebound. But if I'd inserted cords it was harder to Lumbeck them again without trimming the spine a bit. So I figure without the cord the book might need rebinding sooner if it is heavily used, but the spine edges remain in good condition. But a lot of books never get read and it doesn't matter. That's where I'm at with this. But I might change if someone has strong evidence that it is better.
Great to see how this is done! Also, the background sounds of the work being done were a great touch for the video :)
Thanks! Wish there was less background noise from the road outside my house:) All the best, DAS
I don't know why, but this is extremely relaxing!
My grandmother bought me a paperback Bible and I’m going to do this so it does not fall apart. Thank you for this video, extremely helpful.
Try it on scrap book first! DAS
That adventures of bookbinding is magnificent and amazing
Wow! Your final product is amazingly impressive and beautiful. Truthfully, I am amazed that the resulting book, so beautiful externally, if I didn’t miss something, still depends on the quality of the original spine glue that I have so often seen releasing the pages from loved paperbacks. Thank you for freely sharing your craft! I still want to learn how to create the beautiful titleblocks for the spine, and perhaps even embossed on the face.
Thinking more about this before retiring for my night, I expected small holes to be drilled through the book along the spine behind the binding glue to permit binding the pages together more securely.
The 2 primary ways a book opens are the drape of the paper and the spine curving up. Ideally it is a combination of both balanced in a way suitable to the materials the books is made of. Any form of side stitching means the spine can't curve up and the only mechanism allowing the book to open is the bending of the paper. The paper used in most paperbacks is not suited to being the only opening mechanism for a book. So, no I wouldn't do that. The adhesive used in post 1950s commercial books is a huge topic. I think the best approach is to leave well enough alone, and deal with it when it does fail. But that is sort of true for all bookbinding.
Good videos, I've been using a similar method of turning trade paperbacks into leather bound volumes. I do a couple of things differently. Firstly before cutting the cover to make slips I glue on a sheet of mull or fray-not over the cover extending an inch or more on both sides. This makes the joint a bit more viable. I've done books twenty years ago in this manner that have been heavily used and are still as good as ever. Secondly I don't use stick on head and tail bands . Instead I achieve a nice head and tail cap by glueing in an inside out raised band to fold the turn in leather over at head and tail. Also when using french grooves you don't ever need to bevel the boards, in fact the leather will go on a lot neater if you keep the boards square cut.
Your point about bevelling the boards, I think you mean the back cornering, because I don't remember bevelling the boards especially at the joint. It's an interesting point. I think I did this out of habit with doing a lot of springbacks in the last few years. But my very first book a long time ago was a rounded and backed book with a French groove, and I was not taught to do back corners then - though it was with cloth. My gut tells me this will result in a vulnerable sharp corner. But if this was the case 19th century library bindings would be back cornered. But checking Johnson now he does not appear to back corner in his library style bindings. I think I'll add a note to these videos pointing this out and suggesting it is optional and may be more aesthetically pleasing without. Thanks! DAS
Thanks for this demo. I have a set of softbacks to convert and it will be my first venture into using leather binding. I have taken an interest in your cutting boards and especially your cutting tools for leather. One thing I have learned about bookbinding is that tips and tricks are all important!
as a beginner bookbinder I absolutely adore your channel, it has helped me so much! I've only bound 4 or five books so far, but it's my goal to eventually bind leather books in that classic style (and learn all the vocabulary you use in your videos haha). Thank you for the help!
Your videos make me so happy. I've loved books for so long, and it wasn't until I was rereading Inkheart that I realized that this is something I would love to learn how to do. Thank you for sharing your art with us :)
ive been wanting to make some of my older paper back books some better covers and this really helps! Thank you!
A very timely posting, thank you. I am investigating methods of recovering an 1897 edition of a law book. The covers are off. It is rounded and still has good shoulders so raised bands will look nice on it. I will look at your video on split board bindings as well. This will be in full leather and I’ve been asked to put in marbled endpapers as there were just plain paper endpapers originally. I so,appreciate your videos, I’m still on a steep learning curve and your videos are making me a better binder
Hi Cynthia. I highly recommend following the cloth library binding rather than this video. Also, the raised bands make this binding more complicated than I would like. The more I think about it, I think you should do it as a cased binding. Then you can do the bands and finishing off the book. If anything goes wrong you can redo it. Good luck! Darryn
I‘m so happy I found this! I just managed to find a second-hand version online of an out-of-print wishlist book of mine (an encyclopedia about plants in folklore!) and it‘s a softcover. I‘m excited to learn how to prolong its life from you! Thanks for filming this!
Thanks so much for this tutorial.
I recently bought a hard-cover book from a university press, and was disappointed to receive a perfect-bound text block with an ill-fitting hard cover. The cover creaked and ripped away more and more from the text block every time I opened it. The spine seemed to be too wide for the thickness of the text block. Eventually, I just pulled it off.
I've been looking for a way to make a better cover since then. The book still has heavy card stock waste sheets (almost like a soft cover within the hard cover), so I think this method will work.
Good luck. This method relies of a well attached original cover as the insert for the split-board. You'll have to attach new ones for this purpose. The glue used on the spine of these types of books is notoriously difficult to adhere to. I've had to completely remove the original heat activated adhesive and rebind using the double-fan to then move forward. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding - It's an oddly-constructed book. When I pulled off the hard case, it was like I was left with a soft cover book. The end pages are thick card stock that wrap the spine, so there's no exposed glue.
Really helpful video. I've seen some people use toilet paper or plastic wrap tubes to create the impression of rounded spines. I don't have any paperback I want to recover, but this is very helpful and informative just the same. Love your videos!
Your books are all so beautiful! I kinda fell down this rabbit hole because I want to bind a physical copy of something I wrote. I’ve done case bindings before, but they were super amateurish. I can only dream of having a book as beautiful as the ones you bind!
Enjoyed the Goldberg Variations on Guitar here!
My group decide to follow the idea of converting a paperback by using the split board method. We weren't too bothered about the leather work but followed the concept until then. It was quite correct that the cover needed to be in good condition and well attached to the text block. One member, with her 2nd book, tried it with a weak cover which detached from the book. The solution was to put a piece of fraynot round the spine onto the tongues. We thought the results were good. It's an interesting concept to stick the leaher with PVA - far harder than making some flour and water paste and using that! Thank you for the tutorial as always.
I really appreciate how approachable you made this method, moving on to video 2 - thank you!
I made a cord bound book out of an old paperback that was falling apart. Used tissue paper and glue to turn the pages into signatures. The round easily absorbed the extra thickness.
Awesome detail information. I feel alot more confident to start my project.
Thank you!!
Oh hey, you put out a guide just as I put out my imgur tutorial. I'm excited to see how much I screwed up compared to your method!
Ah yes, I tried to do this and I screwed up the split board so bad I went with a different method. I like this method!
The only time this won't work is when the spine is crooked from the get go. I decided to go with scraping off the glue, removing the cover, and doing a perfect bind with PVA. I couldn't do a Lumbeck (tried, failed) because the factory glue was impossible to clean off without making a huge wavy/curved mess out of the text block.
10:56 To make a round spine on a hard flat spine, how about using a wooden dowel that you split/cut to get that arched profile that you wanted?
I thought of doing something like that, but using the same method used to make rounded fronts on clamshells. 2 problems, the stiff spine makes the book difficult to open and it looks a bit strange with the rounded spine but flat fore-edge. Everything is a compromise in bookbinding.
Absolutely fantastic - as usual. I have some old paper back text books that are losing their covers and exposing the text, but they are printed on good quality paper; and so they should they were expensive enough. I was considering deconstructing them as they are printed on signatures but I don’t know if the signatures are sewn together as a text block. This solution just fits the bill exactly and will save me a lot of unnecessary deconstruction - many thanks.
P.S. it was your videos that inspired me to attempt to rebind them in the first place.
Good luck! If they are in sections I would just do a test to see if you can get the spine adhesive off, maybe with some heat. Just a small test, just enough to see if you can. If so then I would recommend do a cloth covered library binding with proper rounding and backing. I'd also recommend giving the false bands a miss. All the best, DAS
Thank you so much for starting this series! I’ve been wanting to reuse text blocks so that I can avoid having to go through the trouble of printing (and maybe the threading too, ha!). As a hobbyist most of the books I’ve bound have been blank journals, but now I want to apply some creativity to the covers of classic books. I think this tutorial will be the perfect starting point.
I really appreciate how you make your tutorials. Especially when you give measurements in context and explain in a way that can be universally applicable to different projects. I can’t wait for part 2!
I hope it's not disappointing. I would only apply this technique to softcover books that are perfect bound and the binding is solid. To rebind a nice book I think I would try and pull the book back to sections/signatures and resew and do a nicer binding. All the best, DAS
Hello from Scotland! I look forward to trying this out
Hope you enjoy! DAS
Love the gift wrapped brick
I wanna learn to do this so I can convert my dark tower box set to hardcover. Seems like something fun to do since I like working with my hands. Thanks for the guide.👍
That's okay, but think hard about it. I bet they are beautiful books already. Putting them in a hardcover doesn't make them last longer or better to read.
These videos are so satisfying to watch.
I appreciate your craftsmanship and wisdom.
You've got yourself a Subscriber 😃
Thanks and welcome! DAS
absolutely fascinating video for someone still relatively new to bookbinding. feel like I just watched a masterclass !! :^D
I have a thick book on the American Civil War that was given to me when I was a kid, and it kickstarted my interest in history. The spine has been falling apart for several years now, so I've been hesitant to enjoy it lest I make the damage any worse. Now I've got a plan, thanks to you!
Or check out my other video where I retain the original covers and spine. Or wait until I do a video on how to repair to original. Just not enough hours in the day.... Ciao, DAS
This is the best youtube channel!!!!!
Not the best, but I'm glad you like it! DAS
Really ingenious and fascinating to watch. I didn't know this was even possible.
I enjoyed this video. Thank you for keeping this craft alive for another generation. I never realized how many parts there are to a book! Would it be possible to post a series of videos on the basic tools and materials of the trade to distinguish basic (me) to advanced (future me) so I don’t get overwhelmed or go broke unnecessarily? Thank you again!
In the comments there is a link to the guide for the channel. In it you should find a link to a tools video. Don't spend too much!
th-cam.com/video/FBGfRTnBUNk/w-d-xo.html
@@DASBookbinding ! Thank you! I think I have everything I need to attempt my first book conversion!
I'd love to do this I just wish there was a written list of materials
Hello there. Thank you for this video. Very much appreciated in an era where "go online..." are generally the first words when you see information on any topic. As a planner lover. Every year I spend a considerable amount of time each year finding a planner the will work for the new year. There seems to be less leather book type planners and more coil or binder types. This year I have identified what I would consider the "ideal planner". White pages, the month view comes just before the weekly appointments. There is plenty of room to jot down notes and impressions. The problem is that the cover is not elegant. It is plastic and there is really no smooth way to add ribbons. This year, the planner was most appealing on the outside but not as functional as I would have liked in the inside. I considered reusing/recycling the old planner cover attached to this years planner for next year, however the books are different sizes and I cannot user the cover this year for next. Do you have any ideas on how I may replace the plastic cover with the coil to something more professional and elegant with a harder more leather like feel that I can possibly personalize with gold lettering?
Coil bound "books" are hard to do anything with because of the perforations along the spine edges. You can cut them off and do a double-fan binding. But not really durable enough for an annual planner. Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you
I am glad that you fold those sheets of paper that you glue on. I just know that I would set that sheet aside and invariably put something on top of it. :)
It seems to a fairly widely done thing by bookbinders. I was certainly taught to do it. If you are going loose focus on a waste sheet with adhesive on it, always fold it. Sometimes you will use the same sheet repeatedly, maybe moving back an inch each time you glue something, but in this case you are always focused on it. DAS
As usually Fantastic! Indeed, this is the best way to preserve an old perfect bounded paperback . In order to improve back durability, I could dear to suggest sawing the back with sawcuts at an angle of 45o to the back and insert linen twine or polyester crocket threads and then to proceed as you did. (Full process @ Banister, Manly: “The Craft of Bookbinding”; pp 127 - 131). I have tested it and it gives much strength to the back.
I seize the opportunity to say a huge thanks for your videos and instructions. This is a live school of bookbinding of an extremely high value by a great Professor. We owe you a lot!
Hi! Thanks for your comments. I wouldn't recommend this for the long term preservation of paperbacks. It's just for show. If I was removing the original hot melt adhesive I might but in cords, as per what I say about it in the Lumbeck video. As I say in that video some people feel it actually reduces long term stability by reducing throw-up of the spine and thus the book becomes more reliant on the drape of the paper. Banister follows mostly standard technique, but I would recommend Town, Burdett, or Johnson in preference. All the best, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding Thank you Darryn! I feel lucky and happy that I am your follower.
It is a beautiful rendition of the goldberg variations.
As to lack of "roundness" of the spine:
When you make your "tube", could you not fold it around a sliver of wood? It would need to be flat on one side, with a slight curve on the other. (in cross section, like a thin letter "D") I guess you'd need to wrap it in wax paper so it isn't permanently glued inside the tube. Remove the wood just before the gold foil application.
To avoid having to make a new "sliver" for every book thickness, they could be made in 3 pieces. Only the 2 sides would need to be curved. The center would just be a flat spacer of the width required.
An unsupported hollow would be too easily damaged. It is common to put a rounded "spine" on book boxes to make them look like books. Just sand some board to the right shape. I experimented with this, but to my eye having a rounded spine while the fore-edge was square was very jarring and I didn't like it. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding I'm afraid I don't understand. I have old (hard back) books that look like they were put together in the way I suggested. I can stick my little finger in some of them between the actual binding, and the inside of the (spine) cover when opened. Isn't that spine unsupported, then? (These books are not nessassarily LEATHER bound)
Keep in mind I have NO knowledge on this subject. I just happened to see this thumbnail, and click on it, as I have several books that I WISH I could've gotten in hardback.
I suspected there would be something wrong with my assumption, or someone with expertise would be using my idea already. I just can't figure why there would be a problem.
Edit: What if you glued a strip of leather to the spine that is WIDER than the book thickness before gluing on your "tube"? Could that take care of your aesthetic concern, and also eliminate the need for the cords you glue on later?
Haha... Now I'm even wondering if the tube ITSELF couldn't be made of thin leather. On thicker books the underside flaps could be butted together in the center, instead of overlapping each other.
@@lawr5764 Maybe I misunderstood. Your suggestion is to add a hollow to the spine that has a gap even when the book is closed. On books with a hollow spine this gap/hollow is totally closed when the book is closed. When a book is open being read people are being careful with it and the cover of the spine is usually not damaged. But an open hollow on the spine all the time is sure to get crushed in normal handling. Plus you have the issue of a book being rounded at the spine but not the fore-edge which I think doesn't look right. DAS
@@DASBookbinding I have books where the spine has a small gap, even when the book is closed. They look a bit worn, but I've had some of them over 45 years.
I think you answered my last post before I went back and added more to it.
Nice! Can't wait for Part 2 😃👍
I apologise in advance for part 2. I remember when I lived in WI and I was trying to follow the Packers. They'd look like they were on their way to the SB, and then Favre would get the ball and throw wildly. Part 2 gives me that same feeling. I don;t want to put you off, but I'll make it up to you in another video. Take care, Darryn
Really great, I love all your ideas, lovely accent, and presentation. 🥰
I like what you have done here (and in part 2). My reason for wanting to convert a paperback , you notice I didn't say into a hardcover, is that I like my reading to fit into my coat pocket. This means when I get my latest history book at 3" thick it needs splitting into 4, or maybe 3), separate volumes. I have the idea, but no real idea of how to execute it, of essentially turning it into a boxed set with the cover of the box being mostly the original covers and spine.
:)
For the box you might consider a slip case. Easy and fast to make especially if you don;t put a rounded opening. Good luck, DAS
3:30 Is it possible to save the original cover by heating the original binding glue to soften it and then slowly pull it off the book without loosening the binding? Or does that glue not soften again once it's set?
Ah! You do say that at 10:35 - I just type comments while I watch the video so that I don't forget. Is there a video perhaps from this attempt? Were the book's pages kept pressed, e.g. using some sort of clamps, when the binding glue was being heated?
Using something like the one 12:01 or some wood-working clamps. That's a really nice press by the way!
I have some cheap textbooks that, from being such, because the get used often, the more they are used, the sooner their spine falls apart. I'd love to be able to convert these to paperbacks with a slightly thicker covers and a hollow spine. Paperbacks with a tube in their spine are so much nicer to use but unfortunately most publishers do not use this method of binding. I cannot understand why not given that it's not that much more expensive.
Nope, no video on removing hot glue. It's a bit hit and miss and you need to be ready to change tack quickly and often mechanical intervention is required. Very easy to destroy books doing it and I don't want to encourage that:)
Not sure I've seen too many soft covers with hollow spines. It would be much more expensive to make. Book production is completely driven by cost rather than resulting book quality.
Thanks for that @@DASBookbinding. I guess I could try it on a book that is not worth the paper it's printed on and find out. I suspect though that the book's age will matter on how easy or possible it will be to soften the glue - I guess in the older ones the glue would have degraded over the years.
I am intrigued about the fact that hollow-spined softbacks cost much more than regular softbacks. Why is that? Aren't the former the same as the latter with a just jacket that has been glued only on the two covers? Now that I think of it, it's seems like a whole extra process requiring extra machines but assuming these are available, how much more would it cost?
To narrow this down somewhat, a lot of textbooks out there come with an option of either hardback or softback binding. A typical case would be, say a textbook worth 25 GBP softbound but 45 GBP hardbound. At these prices, I should think the buyer would be entitled to expect a better quality softbound. At the end of the day though, most would not care about this nor care to look after their books. For both the customer and the publisher books are often nothing more than a commodity, thus price is a huge factor in either ones decisions.
Thank you so much for making this video! It's gonna be so useful when I try doing this myself!
Mesmo não entendendo seu idioma, consegui acompanhar, é sempre uma aula maravilhosa. Obrigada por compartilhar.
Very glad you found the video useful. Yours, Darryn
Aesthetically, I like what you've done here. It does have some practical advantages as well, given that it does preserve the original spine adhesive, and reduces the need for rebinding this element, particularly if the original adhesive isn't compromising durability, and the original cover isn't important enough to preserve. However, if it is a consideration to preserve the cover and to add a rounded spine, then you might interested in Peter Godwin's video. He removes the original adhesive, rebacks the book, (including rounding), delaminates the original cover, and glues it to buckram covers. It also is a nice effect with certain other practical advantages.
irishguy13 Do you have a link where we might find this video?
I wish I had Peter's video on this. It doesn't appear to be available any more. When I first started thinking about this months ago I looked for it and couldn't find it. Yes, if you pull the book you can round it, in which case I wouldn't use this technique. I thought this was going to be a simpler approach, but I'm not sure any more:) All the best, Darryn
19:21 Is there a video for repairing bent or bashed corners? I have only thought of using epoxy/instant glue or perhaps some starch glue but I'm afraid of causing more damage (e.g. water stains, swelling) or making the corners too hard and thus more fragile.
I wouldn't;t use epoxy or CA glue. Starch used paste is typically used because it does get adsorbed. Sorry, I don't have any videos on it.
Appreciate it, I'll be making measures to apply much of this to my practice. Alot of inspiration for myself as such a novice.
I recently got the entire Bridgerton series (8 main books) in paperback but the modern covers are definitely not my style. This kind of gives me an idea of what I want, but I am leaning more towards fabric rather than leather. That choice is primarily a sensory thing.
Huh, using the existing cover for the board attachment is pretty clever. Not what I would do (I'd cut the spine off and double fan the pages) but certainly a good option for a novice. That trick with the cord shoulders is very clever, it solves a problem I'm going to have soon. An old schoolfriend has commissioned me to rebind her set of Harry Potter books in half leather; I'd planned to do a library binding, assuming they would be sewn in signatures, but it turns out that even though they're hardback the textblocks are perfect bound. My plan of attack was to cut off the spines, double fan the textblocks with a slight round (jogging them against a curved surface before clamping up for gluing), tip on endpages with waste sheets, glue on a sturdy cloth spine lining (muslin or ticking) that overlaps onto the waste sheets, then proceed with split board attachment as normal. The problem I couldn't figure out was how to avoid the board standing proud of the spine due to the lack of a shoulder, but using a piece of cord might solve that. My other idea was to shape the spine edge of the board so it tapers to a point and continues the round, then glue it to the waste sheet flush with the edge for a tight joint (cloth lining going over the top) to avoid the shoulder problem all together, but I think I'd need to get very clever with the hollow to make that open nicely. Given me something to think about.
Hi Ed. It seemed like a good idea and went well in the prototype. Now I'm not sure it's simpler. Putting the false bands on really complicated it. Removing the spine has a huge advantage of being able to double-fan with some round. If you time it just right so the adhesive is still tacky you can usually put shoulders on a book done this way too. Much easier in a bindery with a backer. I'll be glad once this project is behind me:) All the best, Darryn
That was an excellent video! Made me appreciate the bookbinders so much more! You make it look extremely simple, but I can immediately tell its not! (I was stuck in a trance through a lot of the video, it's almost ASMR-ily hypnotic!)
I’ve been thinking of using light wood to make some book shaped boxes with heirloom covers to keep my paper backs in. It would make my library more aesthetically consistent. Maybe find a way to line them in a fire proof material.
That is a lot of work for paperbacks. Clamshell enclosures is the way to go. Use a high quality binders board like Davey board, not wood. Wood is very acidic and needs barriers to stop migration. You can shape the spine to make it round and it really looks book like. But adds significant extra work. Good luck!
@@DASBookbinding thank you so much for the advice! I’m looking into it now.
You talked about the 'lack of round' on the binding of the book - could you add a thin, rounded panel to give the appearance of that on the modern binding?
I experimented with using a rounded spine piece - like I occasionally use on a clam-shell box. It looked okay closed but then looked funny when the book opened. Also, I didn't;t like how the rounded look at the spine wasn't matched with a rounded fore-edge. I did try softening the glue of the spine and rounding the book, but wrecked many books trying to do this. Fail. But it can be done and if you like the look you should do it. All the best, DAS
I know what you mean. I prefer hard backs too but sometimes a paperback is all that is available. But that is far better than ebooks. I just can't read on a screen. I like the feel and look of a book.
Do you think it would be doable to cut the cover completely off, minus the spine, glue some cardstock to the spine to replace your turn-ins made from the cover? I would love to glue the actual cover to the outside of the front cover when it's done.
thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! very helpful videos!
Interesting version of the Goldberg Variations. 👍
Can you show us how to put leather on the corners of a quarter-bound book that is then covered in decorative paper? How does one bring the paper up to the leather on the corners and cut it correctly? Thanks much!
Half bound book. I have leather corners on this book
th-cam.com/video/FM1xH5nICU8/w-d-xo.html
In this one I infill under the board cloth (using paper would be the same).
There is another approach I haven't demonstrated where you blind in lines where the cloth/paper overlaps the leather and bring the cover material up close the edge of the blind line. It's a nice effect.
I'll get that one day.
DAS
I've bound a few books (sewing, rounding, backing, leather/cloth, etc.), but I've always wondered about how to work with perfect binding. The issue I see more often than not is pages falling out. Sure it's easy enough to tip them back in, but there are some that are beyond that. Any suggestions for working with severely degraded spine on perfect bound books?
Wouldn't it be worthwhile, since one is putting such effort into the binding, to have the book de-acidified first, in order to prevent further browning and deterioration of the paper?
De-acidification is a complex subject. For a start, if I just want to put a paperback in hard cover I'd use the Bradel case method I show in another video. This project was a for a specific scenario. It was for a reprint of an old book to make it look sort of old. These reprints done in the last 20 years are usually done on quality paper that is not acidic. Not all books with a soft cover are done with cheap paper. Dover use really good paper for example. Sophia nails the answer in her blog post
saveyourbooks.com/studentforum/deacidification-of-book-pages/
I've seen other less serious bookbinders use vinyl tubes cut into sections to make rounded backs. Or at least something that looks like a rounded back. Wonder if that would work combined with this technique.
This project is already pushing the limits of traditional bookbinding but I do try and allow the book to function as intended. Just putting a rounded ridged shape on the spine stops the spine of the book from functioning, if I understand what you're saying. You can do it, but it's a bad idea.
@@DASBookbindingThat's really interesting! Thanks for the response.
I have so many interests that I'll frequently create one or two of something then go on to the next thing. Like bookbinding. A *very* long time ago (late 70's maybe,) I rebound a perfect bound book of my sister's that I'd just about worn out with re-reading. If you think bookbinding info is scarce now, imagine what it was like then. However, one tip I picked up, which you may already know but perhaps wasn't applicable for this book re: rounding the spine. I took took the book completely apart, squared up the pages, put it in the press with the spine proud then rubbed a piece of 2" masking tape down on the spine. Removed it from the press, carefully created the shape it should have (poke a finger in the fore edge and it kind of naturally went that way,) stuck it back in the press with the spine proud again, and proceeded to glue the h*ll out of it. Best I know, that book is still in one piece.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, this is common in small commercial operations. There is a double-fan machine that has different sized rounds that you can use if you want rounded Lumbecked book. Or you can cut a bit of PVC pipe. It was a step more than I wanted to go in this video. Happy binding! DAS
What do you think of applying a wider linen strip at 12:00 so that it would go around the corner to reinforce the paper hinge?
I enjoyed your video and think I will try the process on some books I want to hand down.
My books are of acid free paper, just not bound the way I like them.
Thanks, JIM
You would have to adjust the width of the gap to the split board and reduce the size of the artificial shoulder. So you could do it. But the inner joint doesn't have the same fragility of a cased book with paper endpapers. The boards are attached by the original covers which are usually fairly robust. Then it is reinforced by the spine lining and the boards are also held on with the leather covering. So I'm not sure it's necessary. Ciao, DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you for your valued opinion. I am understanding what you are saying and do not think I will deviate from your design.
JIM
I wish to see this video with no commentary and in normal speed! That would be so relaxing
I love seeing all the different techniques that are used,but do you know of a way to create a hard cover without having to remove or cut up the original book cover? Any advice or suggestions? I really like some of the original covers and would like to preserve them as well.
I have a video where I put the original covers on the outside of the case. Trying to put a case over the original covers and keeping them accessible is problematic. The case has to attach somehow and that will involve covering something, at least the spine.
Very nice and informative video. Learnt a lot from this 👍👍
this is a great idea for my books . but can you make another video preserving the original cover of the book? i would like to preserve the covers. thank you 💞
Like this?
th-cam.com/video/IWTANgmtpfQ/w-d-xo.html
DAS