Love this! At the beginning of quarantine I built my entire board from the ground up and you guys built an external switch for my mastermind. (Love it!) But one thing I remember of the whole process was how much my thumbnail hurt from peeling the dielectric from the 30 plus cables I made lol.
So true! I had the same thing when I started / or if I ever take a break from cables. It's like playing guitar... have to build up some of those thumbnail calluses
Had that same issue, with the muffled sound, Grant. I found this video and the answer to the problem. 🤣 Never scraped a wire before until now. First time using Mogami 2319 also. The plus side is that I got to work on my soldering skills another 42 times!!! 🤪😃
If you’re deft enough with side cutters, you can quickly remove the dielectic sleeve in 1-2 quick moves. I like how the pancakes are low profile, but I don’t like how they take up quite a bit of space sideways. The barrel of the right angle is a bit restrictive in tight pedal boards or closely spaced jacks. I got some Lava mini right angle soldered plugs a while back, but don’t seem to see them around as much these days, don’t know if they don’t hold up well in a more rigorous touring pedalboard?
@@yurakolesnikov9725 we just use a standard label maker... Like a Brother P Touch or similar... Tons of options out there for those and they are pretty cheap as well!
Should really scrub off that flux with some flux remover or IPA. Even if only using rosin core solder. I've opened up cables I made even 5 years ago when I didn't do this and they're oxidized and corroded from leaving the flux on there. They didn't fall yet but it's a quick extra step to do
Nice. Great point. I haven't had that happen yet after opening cables up... Have checked cables 5+ years later and they still look great. Definitely good practice though!
This issuper helpful, thanks! Do you need to check the tip to sleeve on the other end of the cable too or if the one side is good then it doesn’t matter?
Check the tip of both ends are connected and the sleeve of both ends are connected and also that tip is NOT connected to sleeve if that makes sense. In short, check both sides to be safe.
@@GoodwoodAudio when checking that the top is not connected to the sleeve, do you only need to check that once? I guess if it is then it would also have continuity to the other tip as well through the main non ground wire?
16 minutes for one cable, wow. (Edited, I may add). I get to do a solder-free cable in under 2 minutes. ...I was thinking about soldering cables myself, as the solderless stuff is so expensive, but after seeing how long it takes, I think I'll stick with the expensive method. 😩💸
Shoot. Sorry about that! The ground tab goes with the shield (bare copper) of the cable. On the pancake I use this is the tab on the RIGHT. On the right angle plug, this is the tab connected to strain relief. The signal / hot wire (the center wire on the cable) goes to the LEFT tab on the pancake and the upper tab (smaller, higher tab) on the right angle. Happy to clarify any other questions. Feel free to email as well. info@goodwoodaudio.com. Thanks for the feedback! Appreciated.
I took to soldering cables. The problem is that, after much time and expense and cursing and melted cable sleeves... I don’t trust my own work and have to buy proper cables like I should have in the first place. Nice thought though.
Love this!
At the beginning of quarantine I built my entire board from the ground up and you guys built an external switch for my mastermind. (Love it!) But one thing I remember of the whole process was how much my thumbnail hurt from peeling the dielectric from the 30 plus cables I made lol.
So true! I had the same thing when I started / or if I ever take a break from cables. It's like playing guitar... have to build up some of those thumbnail calluses
😂
The most satisfying video on the internet.
This is literally on my agenda for things to get done today. HECK.YES.
You know... I just had a feeling it was the right time to post this. haha. Glad it helped!
@@GoodwoodAudio when are we gonna see how to make some custom DC power cables 🤓
@@micahsaldivar noted!
Had that same issue, with the muffled sound, Grant. I found this video and the answer to the problem. 🤣 Never scraped a wire before until now. First time using Mogami 2319 also. The plus side is that I got to work on my soldering skills another 42 times!!! 🤪😃
Glass half full. I like it! haha
Wonderful
thanks!
If you’re deft enough with side cutters, you can quickly remove the dielectic sleeve in 1-2 quick moves.
I like how the pancakes are low profile, but I don’t like how they take up quite a bit of space sideways. The barrel of the right angle is a bit restrictive in tight pedal boards or closely spaced jacks. I got some Lava mini right angle soldered plugs a while back, but don’t seem to see them around as much these days, don’t know if they don’t hold up well in a more rigorous touring pedalboard?
Good question on the lava plugs. I'm not too sure to be honest! Square plugs also do a great job... essentially a mini pancake.
Thanks u this is very informative.
Love it
@@6stringmob thanks for checking it out!
Great video. Thanks.
Thanks Mark!
@@GoodwoodAudio thank you. New to your channel and love it.
whats a good soldering iron to use for this? Ive never soldered before
You made it look so easy! But still no thanks, I'll just order some soldered cables from you, guys :P. Btw do you ship to Russia?
haha. Practice definitely helps! We do! If the website gives you any issues just let me know - info@goodwoodaudio.com
@@GoodwoodAudio Thanks! Also - where can I find those fancy stickers with pedal names you do for power supplies?
@@yurakolesnikov9725 we just use a standard label maker... Like a Brother P Touch or similar... Tons of options out there for those and they are pretty cheap as well!
Should really scrub off that flux with some flux remover or IPA. Even if only using rosin core solder. I've opened up cables I made even 5 years ago when I didn't do this and they're oxidized and corroded from leaving the flux on there. They didn't fall yet but it's a quick extra step to do
Nice. Great point. I haven't had that happen yet after opening cables up... Have checked cables 5+ years later and they still look great. Definitely good practice though!
This issuper helpful, thanks! Do you need to check the tip to sleeve on the other end of the cable too or if the one side is good then it doesn’t matter?
Check the tip of both ends are connected and the sleeve of both ends are connected and also that tip is NOT connected to sleeve if that makes sense. In short, check both sides to be safe.
@@GoodwoodAudio when checking that the top is not connected to the sleeve, do you only need to check that once? I guess if it is then it would also have continuity to the other tip as well through the main non ground wire?
@@joshfirlotte correct. If tip.sleeve arent connected on one end, they won't be connected on the other (assuming it's a normal TS patch cable)
@@GoodwoodAudio thanks so much, you guys are the best!
16 minutes for one cable, wow. (Edited, I may add). I get to do a solder-free cable in under 2 minutes. ...I was thinking about soldering cables myself, as the solderless stuff is so expensive, but after seeing how long it takes, I think I'll stick with the expensive method. 😩💸
haha. once you're good at it, you can do a cable in under 5min no problem. Teaching it though... takes much longer.
Didn't really see clarity on which cable lead goes with which tab.. otherwise awesome video!
Shoot. Sorry about that! The ground tab goes with the shield (bare copper) of the cable. On the pancake I use this is the tab on the RIGHT. On the right angle plug, this is the tab connected to strain relief. The signal / hot wire (the center wire on the cable) goes to the LEFT tab on the pancake and the upper tab (smaller, higher tab) on the right angle. Happy to clarify any other questions. Feel free to email as well. info@goodwoodaudio.com. Thanks for the feedback! Appreciated.
I took to soldering cables. The problem is that, after much time and expense and cursing and melted cable sleeves...
I don’t trust my own work and have to buy proper cables like I should have in the first place.
Nice thought though.
It does take some practice I'll admit. I made some nice healthy mistakes in the beginning as well.