This is a super helpful video. I started climbing a year ago but got burnt out and took 2-3 months off. I am back now and been climbing for a couple months and I’m noticing I can’t half crimp at all. Going to start incorporating it with a resistance band to help prevent injury
That last line from Neil is actually so true. I had a rib injury that meant i couldn't climb for about 5 weeks but I could continue to hang board. I instantly went up a V grade when i returned to climbing - it was madness.
I have started hangboarding regularly less than 6 months after I have started climbing. If anything, my fingers felt healthier. I have gone from not being able to hang with both of my hands on 23mm to 4sec one arm hang in a year. I have had only one injury (A4 partial tear on ring finger) and it was from campusing on 15mm edges. That I think you should avoid as beginner and only campus on big holds.
Great nuggets. I've been climbing for a little over a year and I'm just starting to play with finger training. I know a basic principle of strength training is progressive overload so some advice on how to apply this with finger training e.g. if you can hang bodyweight on a 20mm for 10s, should you start to add weight, longer hangs, or more sets?
For max hangs adding weight on ideally a slightly larger edge ~25mm with good form would be best. If you can hang longer than 8 seconds, add weight. No more than 2x a week, and only when you’ve recovered from a previous climbing session, and ideally you do this just after you’ve warmed up. Also start doing wrist extensions with 5-10lbs to close to failure
So my question is: what is the correct way to "half crimp"? I know, everybody says that the fingers should bend 90°, but what about the wrist? for me hanging with completely straight wrists feels good, but not that much stronger than open hand. So i think the mechanical advantage from the half crimp comes from bending the wrist aswell. For me this feels a bit more sketchy and of it as "not so safe" as it's closer to a full crimp position. So which way is the correct way to train? TLDR: my half crimp with straight wrist feels very weak on the wall on tiny crimps, am I crimping wrong? cheers!
Listen to the full Episode 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neil-gresham
This is a super helpful video. I started climbing a year ago but got burnt out and took 2-3 months off. I am back now and been climbing for a couple months and I’m noticing I can’t half crimp at all. Going to start incorporating it with a resistance band to help prevent injury
That last line from Neil is actually so true. I had a rib injury that meant i couldn't climb for about 5 weeks but I could continue to hang board. I instantly went up a V grade when i returned to climbing - it was madness.
What did you train specifically?
I have started hangboarding regularly less than 6 months after I have started climbing. If anything, my fingers felt healthier. I have gone from not being able to hang with both of my hands on 23mm to 4sec one arm hang in a year. I have had only one injury (A4 partial tear on ring finger) and it was from campusing on 15mm edges. That I think you should avoid as beginner and only campus on big holds.
Great nuggets. I've been climbing for a little over a year and I'm just starting to play with finger training. I know a basic principle of strength training is progressive overload so some advice on how to apply this with finger training e.g. if you can hang bodyweight on a 20mm for 10s, should you start to add weight, longer hangs, or more sets?
Look up “Dave Macleod finger board follow along” best video out there to get you into it
For max hangs adding weight on ideally a slightly larger edge ~25mm with good form would be best. If you can hang longer than 8 seconds, add weight. No more than 2x a week, and only when you’ve recovered from a previous climbing session, and ideally you do this just after you’ve warmed up. Also start doing wrist extensions with 5-10lbs to close to failure
Thanks, good work!
So my question is: what is the correct way to "half crimp"? I know, everybody says that the fingers should bend 90°, but what about the wrist? for me hanging with completely straight wrists feels good, but not that much stronger than open hand. So i think the mechanical advantage from the half crimp comes from bending the wrist aswell. For me this feels a bit more sketchy and of it as "not so safe" as it's closer to a full crimp position. So which way is the correct way to train?
TLDR: my half crimp with straight wrist feels very weak on the wall on tiny crimps, am I crimping wrong?
cheers!
What he said about not being able to half crimp, full crimping or dragging on everything, was me 6 months ago
🦍🔥🦍