Are garment construction/fashion design students taught these topics at school or on the job? Or are some tailors never taught them? I can see the huge value in this theory.
Some of them yes... Darts, pleats and gathers are all standard techniques that students play with in classes. Iron work less so as industrial manufacturing doesn't use often. Students learn more about iron work in a tailoring workshop. I guess the one I've never heard or seen articulate before is "Relative Layer Length" and "Shape By Angle" which are both terms I've made up myself. Most tailors learn these techniques intuitively but don't really formalise it for the purposes of teaching. I'm curios to see how helpful these terms I've created will be for teaching students. The goal is to help students to make sharp distinctions between shapes, causes and effects that may look similar but are in reality very different from one another. Reza
In addition to my earlier comment I also think that making a distinction between positive and negative surface curves is something tailoring has not really payed attention to beyond the current vague and generic terms such has shortness or length/width. Reza
I think I start to understand where the "positive" term comes from... it would be obtained with the addition of length / a wedge. When a negative curve will come from the suppression of length / a dart It must have been quite a headscratcher to find the correct wordings for each of these general topics. I had not thought of these two categories separately. Looking forwards to see how treating one differ to the other
As counter intuitive as it may seem, positive surface curves are created with darts and negative surface curves with wedges. You can memorise this in the following way: Positive surfaces are longer than their surroundings; A single dart makes the center of a square piece longer than the surrounded area since it removes a triangle from it. Negative surfaces are shorter than their surroundings; A wedge insertion makes the surrounding area of a square piece longer than its center as it inserts a triangle into it. Reza
examples ? IRON if a man has a bit of a back hump, i have seen tailors on youtube use an iron to stretch the fabric on a mans jacket a bit, GATHERS ruffles on a ladies sundress, DARTS. bust point, or waist, or top of pants, RLL maybe the belly of a jacket lapel, one layer is shorter giving the lapel its curve, or maybe shoulder pad ? ANGLE a shoulder seam. ?
Hello Lori, Excellent examples. I'm impressed! I will be going through each one of these techniques in separate lessons along with examples. I try not to connect them to specific parts of a garment as much as I can and focus more on the action itself. My goal is to present each technique as a "word" and its meaning which can be used in many ways to create a "sentence". The word being the technique and the sentence whatever garment or area you're working on. I've noticed that once students connect a technique to a given part of the garment, they forget that they can use the same technique on other parts and get creative with it. So, to continue the analogy above, I don't want to teach the word as part of a sentence. This will restrict the possibilities of that word and lock it into a narrow meaning and context. Reza
this dude is my hero
Thanks Reza.
This lesson is a gem
Thank You! Enjoy
Reza
Thank you Sir for teaching us
another great lesson.
Thank you :)
Reza
Amazing Reza
You’re welcome Berend!
Reza
Thank you.
You're welcome! :)
Reza
Can't wait for the lessons 👍
What a men you are …🙏🏻🙏🏻
Really appreciable..!🔥🔥
Are garment construction/fashion design students taught these topics at school or on the job? Or are some tailors never taught them? I can see the huge value in this theory.
Some of them yes...
Darts, pleats and gathers are all standard techniques that students play with in classes. Iron work less so as industrial manufacturing doesn't use often. Students learn more about iron work in a tailoring workshop.
I guess the one I've never heard or seen articulate before is "Relative Layer Length" and "Shape By Angle" which are both terms I've made up myself.
Most tailors learn these techniques intuitively but don't really formalise it for the purposes of teaching. I'm curios to see how helpful these terms I've created will be for teaching students.
The goal is to help students to make sharp distinctions between shapes, causes and effects that may look similar but are in reality very different from one another.
Reza
In addition to my earlier comment I also think that making a distinction between positive and negative surface curves is something tailoring has not really payed attention to beyond the current vague and generic terms such has shortness or length/width.
Reza
Reza, do you enjoy math? I think you might!
I think I start to understand where the "positive" term comes from... it would be obtained with the addition of length / a wedge. When a negative curve will come from the suppression of length / a dart
It must have been quite a headscratcher to find the correct wordings for each of these general topics. I had not thought of these two categories separately. Looking forwards to see how treating one differ to the other
As counter intuitive as it may seem, positive surface curves are created with darts and negative surface curves with wedges.
You can memorise this in the following way:
Positive surfaces are longer than their surroundings;
A single dart makes the center of a square piece longer than the surrounded area since it removes a triangle from it.
Negative surfaces are shorter than their surroundings;
A wedge insertion makes the surrounding area of a square piece longer than its center as it inserts a triangle into it.
Reza
Reza, thank you for this explanation. It could be confusing until one gets his head around it 🙂.@@OFFICIALISOT
examples ? IRON if a man has a bit of a back hump, i have seen tailors on youtube use an iron to stretch the fabric on a mans jacket a bit, GATHERS ruffles on a ladies sundress, DARTS. bust point, or waist, or top of pants, RLL maybe the belly of a jacket lapel, one layer is shorter giving the lapel its curve, or maybe shoulder pad ? ANGLE a shoulder seam. ?
Hello Lori,
Excellent examples. I'm impressed!
I will be going through each one of these techniques in separate lessons along with examples. I try not to connect them to specific parts of a garment as much as I can and focus more on the action itself.
My goal is to present each technique as a "word" and its meaning which can be used in many ways to create a "sentence".
The word being the technique and the sentence whatever garment or area you're working on.
I've noticed that once students connect a technique to a given part of the garment, they forget that they can use the same technique on other parts and get creative with it.
So, to continue the analogy above, I don't want to teach the word as part of a sentence. This will restrict the possibilities of that word and lock it into a narrow meaning and context.
Reza
My guy just explained special relativity better than Einstein.
Haha. Thank you. I don't dare to make that claim.
Reza
Is this explanation for professional tailors or beginners? You make things difficult for us