I have that same rack, though the 600mm deep version, and recently I had to move the vertical rails to fit a new 2U chassis that wouldn't fit. I thought I'd have to take everything out of the rack to accomplish that, but a smart trick spared me all that work! Choose either top or bottom and unscrew both vertical rails at that point, and rotate them to their new location and secure them, but perhaps not too tight just yet for some leeway; then go to the opposite vertical end, unscrew, and rotate the rails again, with the equipment still attached, until they reach the desired new location and proceed to secure everything as appropriate. A lot simpler than I thought it'd be, and worked like a charm without any hazard to my equipment!
Apart from basic failure to measure your equipment before buying the rack, you're using an audio gear rack rather than an IT rack. IT racks are generally not only deeper, but wider, with space for vertical routing of cables and management ears to either side.
I have a rack of this brand with a few variations and I've been using it for about 2 years now. I love it. The fans are very loud. I've also heard the wiring scares some people but I haven't had any issues. I used to control the fan with a smart outlet but now I've just moved it to a place where it doesn't bother me. I'm using rackstuds for pretty much everything in it except for a few shelves to hold my heavier stuff like my UPS, then I'm using rack studs on the front for that but the weight is on racknuts and bolts.
@@Felix-ve9hs yup, amazon sells those usb 5v fans, I use 2 of those and a old recycled cellphone charger. Cool & quiet with all the networking gear in my enclosed unit.
I feel your pain. Sooooo…the executive summary is that the deeper version of this rack would have been the one to get for your intended use because several devices are too deep for this one and because you need more clearance in front of and in back of the rack points relative to the front door and back cover.
This. I'm going through the same thing with the cheap rack I picked up. Every step along the way is another "dang, my rack is too shallow to do what I wanted". I see an upgrade in my future
I have the less expensive version of that cabinet, and I can confirm the fan noise was unacceptable to me. I replaced with Noctua and a Cooler-Guys thermostat. Works great, and is silent.
I can confirm the aural emissions are unacceptable unless mitigated with passive or placement means. Personally, I mounted the rack in the garage and I can't hear the fans from anywhere outside of that "room/car hole/shop/lab/storage" area; not even on the others side of the poorly insulated wall! The stock temperature abatement for my use case was deemed acceptable and necessary due to the ambient temps being +/-10 - 15F avg from the human containment and recreation areas when fully loaded. The fans lasted about 2.5yrs and were replaced with like units from the vendor with much difficulty, aggravation, and many beers due to the emotional and physical abuse. I cut my thumb and so there was blood; however, a post operational root-cause analysis was coded nominal for the type of work performed. The new fans were a different oem but fit and function was within lab standards and actually decreased average internal temps. A+ best avar for the price.
Chris, I have the same rack, except that it is the 18u version. I also needed to have the switches and patch panels deeper in the rack to close the door, but wanted rails at the front for deeper items. I was about to buy brackets that would attach to the rails and for a 4u space provide mounts 3 inches further back. They were priced at $42 but had a $14 shipping charge. Then I discovered that I could get additional rails from NavePoint for $54, with no shipping charge. I now have 8 rails in the rack, and so I have a lot of flexibility about were to mount things, including items with four post mounts. Also, it seems to me that there is plenty of space outside the rails to route power cables, so that you could go almost all of the way to the back of the case. The fans are loud, so I just removed them. I'll be interested to learn if you find a satisfactory substitute.
Nice The more videos about stuff most videos on youtube are about the better. Its great that channels like yours put the effort into making vids on things that most do not, and its good that so many people make videos on topics most simply do not. There is always someone interested in such things, and is interested to see how tech professionals do stuff in there own unique way.
Hi Chris, regards your mention of rack mounting for Raspberry Pi. You can buy such of course but they are stupidly expensive. I noticed that a Pi is good fit in an 8 port bay in a network switch. I have an old Dell 16 port switch case with a broken power supply and it now houses a pair of Raspberry Pi's in my rack. Switches like this are cheap as chips on ebay and a 48 port switch should house 6 Pi. Lots of Netgear and Dell switches also use 5V power supply so even that is easy. Pics available if you are interested.
I regularly have issues with cabinets and equipment depths, contractors install 390mm deep wall mounted cabinets and then big PoE switches don't fit or short floor standing cabinets where cable clearances are an issue. I like your use of Rackstuds, I have changed over to these on my own rack and would like clients to use them too but they are about 50% more expensive here in the UK for the 100 pack vs the old fashioned metal ones. As you say, rackstuds are ideal if you are frequently moving equipment in and out, I have injured myself so many times over the years on the old metal cage nuts.
what are the blue and red clips you are using, im assuming they replaced the normal nuts/screws you would use... Man, getting the nuts in leaves my fingers destroyed! these look at simpler. 😃 I got to min 16 and you cover these off, awesome!
If that rack is like my old baby rack and the back is solid/screwed in place, then it is likely helpful to know that the threading for the screws on that back panel is the same (or close enough to the same) as your standard PC thumb screw.
2yrs late, found this video, don't know if you ever found some solution for the Pis, in case you didn't, I advise Racknex, they have adapters ranging from 1U fitting 4 Pis up to 2U fitting 12 of them in 19", or up to 2 Pi in a 1U 10"
So in summary, apart from it being the wrong rack for the job, its a nice rack.... This would probably be a really nice one tor a cinema amplifier rack, if not for the noisy fans and closed back. Most rack equipment is getting so long these days with the need for cramming as much functionality as possible into each device, that the "small" form factor racks are getting to shallow. But I would want to know the purpose of those blind plugs in ports 16-21 on the USW-PRO.
Hmm, wonder how much demand there'd be for a rack that can accept the same kind of castors/wheels as office chairs use. I just wonder, because I recently saw office chair "wheels" that were actually sliding pucks, designed to make it easier to slide over deep-pile carpet without catching. I don't imagine there'd be many people who keep that sort of thing *_on_* deep-pile carpet, but it's clearly a non-zero number ;)
I got one of these racks from NavePoint, but made the mistake of not ensuring it was deep enough for the 48 POE Switch Pro. So I ended up going with the EA unifi rack, but no way to get an additional 24 port patch panel to match.
I almost had the same problem. I then realized it wasn't deep enough. Good thing NavePoint has "deep" versions of all their racks. And yes, you're one of thousands, including me, who wish they could get more of those aluminum finished unifi patch panels. People with the rack who need more than one have the same problem as you. Many have made their own by spray painting the most similar Rust Oleum can they could find.
I have a Navepoint case as well in a closet. The included fans are super loud and I think started failing. I want to replace them with some Noctua fans, but not sure those will move as much air and have to figure out wiring for 12v 3pin vs the 120v. Let me know what you end up switching out for.
I want sudies this model Responsibilities: 1 Scanning and installing server racks as they come in. 2 Connect the racks to the network. Troubleshoot hardware. 3 Housekeeping. · Adhere to security and safety best practices in the data centre. · Installation and testing of copper and Fibre Optic cabling. · Basic build and troubleshooting of network devices. · Regularly lift 15kg or move heavy objects into position. · Regularly work at heights and from ladders. · Managing inventory of related materials. · Adhering to defined escalation processes and standard operating procedures. · Work in noisy areas with hotter and colder temperatures than standard office environmental conditions. · Ability to travel within geographical work area is required,
If you’re concerned about the noise of these fans then don’t even think about putting your 3D printer in the office… remember that some prints can take a long time and you can’t easily pause that when you’re recording a new video.
I am in the planning phase of building a rack using extruded aluminum and the vertical rails I am using have a tapped 10-32 threaded hole to them... I will keep you up to date when the building starts. :)
Have 2 similar racks, one of the first things I did was swap out those fans.. really loud.. swapped them out for noctua 12v fans with adapters and smart plug to control on off times.. patchbox kinda cool but is ridiculous expensive.. what power device is that you have in the top rear of your rack.. looks very cool.,
Once again a great video. :) I just wanted to ask if you could make a video about Pi Hole. How to install it with UDM Pro? Do Home Asistent and Pi Hole need to be installed on different Raspberry Pies? What can be advantages using it with Synology (docker) ... How have you set it all up or something like this? I think a lot of us will appreciate that video.
I run a pi-hole on a Raspberry Pi but I also run a second instance in docker on my Synology NAS. I figured that running my DNS only in Synology would be too disruptive if I need to power cycle the NAS so I did keep the instance on a Pi too. Having both means I can update either without impact so long as I do them one at a time. I also run Home Assistant. I used to run it on a Pi but I moved it into docker on my Synology a couple of years ago. I find it easier to keep docker instances up to date (with docker-compose) than keeping a bunch of little computers up to date. The only Pi I run now is for pi-hole.
Tnx... I don't have anything yet but I am looking different opinions and how different people have things arranged before I get into buying stuff....tnx again ;)
summary: don't think you are going to fit everything in a standard 450mm deep rack. go with 600. you need space for cables (power cabels behind, network, fiber cabels in the front.
I'm looking at networking my house and have been looking at racks, cables, all the things. One thing I realized, I think I lost the mounting hardware for my Unifi equipment. Any thoughts on where I can get replacements? UI support wasn't much help
Hey Chris...nice video. Maybe I missed it through the video but was just curious what you use the QNAP-QDG-1600P switch for? Just wondering since everything else is Unifi. Thanks.
You have Padded the Rack, Did you used something special or regular "Sponge"? (Also on one of the quick looks on the top, It looks like you padded and blocked the fans ?)
I do not recommend putting the 3D printer on top of the rack, especially when there is a NAS there. 3D printers create a lot of vibrations on various frequencies, even if there is no spinning HDDs inside, constant vibration might degrade something sooner or later.
The 15U 600mm is much more flexible, and then putting heavy bends in the power cables is never a great idea. A lot EU plugs have 90 degree cable outs and would suite this rack a lot better. Unless space is limited I wouldn't opt for the 450mm.
Well good video but I think you should do a more investigation before buying this rack. No space for your NAS Server, Patch box, etc. If the intent was to show all potential issues then it is as a very good video!
What network device do you use for your vlans? I currently have a Cisco Catalyst 1000 Series with POE and web interface enabled that I could use for vlan if I new how to configure it or get something like you have
I just installed these. Plug and play. Everything lines up and mounts directly. AC power running DC fans. At least half if not more as quiet as the stock loud Navepoint fans and they come with a push button speed controller. I can no longer hear the network rack in my master bedroom closet when they are at half speed. Perfect.
Hi Chris, love your video's and understand perfectly advertisements very well. But I just wanted to let you know that I just got political message from a rightwing Belgian political party that is using the war in Ukraine to defend their (in my opinion wrong) refugee refusing program. I guess you are not aware which advertisements (or categories, in this case political) are shown between your video's. So just you know. Keep up the good work!
To use an untwist tool is from an electrical engineering standpoint quite stupid. The wires are twisted for a reason and should be twisted for as long as possible. I've build connections up to Cat. 7A and Class I (Cat 8) and never used such a tool or have seen it been used by a professional. Of course one has to untwist parts of the wire, but that can be easily done by hand, especially at Cat 5e cable. There are tools for the classic cage nut. But hey are a pain in the ... Also, as a European I am quite surprised how many Amaricans still use Cat 5e.
man.. av cabinet. no willingness to get the right hardware. doing it on the carpet. You have beautiful ambition and energy but it would have been a lot better if you just slowed down and waited to do it right.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
I have that same rack, though the 600mm deep version, and recently I had to move the vertical rails to fit a new 2U chassis that wouldn't fit. I thought I'd have to take everything out of the rack to accomplish that, but a smart trick spared me all that work! Choose either top or bottom and unscrew both vertical rails at that point, and rotate them to their new location and secure them, but perhaps not too tight just yet for some leeway; then go to the opposite vertical end, unscrew, and rotate the rails again, with the equipment still attached, until they reach the desired new location and proceed to secure everything as appropriate. A lot simpler than I thought it'd be, and worked like a charm without any hazard to my equipment!
I can't believe there's now a tool to untwist about an inch of twisted pair - what a time to be alive!
"Guest appearance by my dog, turkey." That caused quite the chuckle. LOL
Apart from basic failure to measure your equipment before buying the rack, you're using an audio gear rack rather than an IT rack.
IT racks are generally not only deeper, but wider, with space for vertical routing of cables and management ears to either side.
I have a rack of this brand with a few variations and I've been using it for about 2 years now. I love it.
The fans are very loud. I've also heard the wiring scares some people but I haven't had any issues. I used to control the fan with a smart outlet but now I've just moved it to a place where it doesn't bother me.
I'm using rackstuds for pretty much everything in it except for a few shelves to hold my heavier stuff like my UPS, then I'm using rack studs on the front for that but the weight is on racknuts and bolts.
Good video I usually remove those loud 110v fans and install 12v or 5v USB fans that are much quieter, but still pull air out the top.
the usually use a lot less power too, my rack had 4x 120mm 220v fans and they alone pulled ~100w
@@Felix-ve9hs yup, amazon sells those usb 5v fans, I use 2 of those and a old recycled cellphone charger. Cool & quiet with all the networking gear in my enclosed unit.
I have 2x USB powered fan in my rack - they run full speed and i can't hear them :)
I feel your pain. Sooooo…the executive summary is that the deeper version of this rack would have been the one to get for your intended use because several devices are too deep for this one and because you need more clearance in front of and in back of the rack points relative to the front door and back cover.
This. I'm going through the same thing with the cheap rack I picked up. Every step along the way is another "dang, my rack is too shallow to do what I wanted". I see an upgrade in my future
I came here to see what hte screen was :) I was dissapointed...LOL. Can't wait to hear about it
I actually checked out the EA site. Looks cool I wish I had known about it. I might try and pick one up for Protect.
I have the less expensive version of that cabinet, and I can confirm the fan noise was unacceptable to me. I replaced with Noctua and a Cooler-Guys thermostat. Works great, and is silent.
I can confirm the aural emissions are unacceptable unless mitigated with passive or placement means. Personally, I mounted the rack in the garage and I can't hear the fans from anywhere outside of that "room/car hole/shop/lab/storage" area; not even on the others side of the poorly insulated wall! The stock temperature abatement for my use case was deemed acceptable and necessary due to the ambient temps being +/-10 - 15F avg from the human containment and recreation areas when fully loaded. The fans lasted about 2.5yrs and were replaced with like units from the vendor with much difficulty, aggravation, and many beers due to the emotional and physical abuse. I cut my thumb and so there was blood; however, a post operational root-cause analysis was coded nominal for the type of work performed. The new fans were a different oem but fit and function was within lab standards and actually decreased average internal temps. A+ best avar for the price.
Chris, I have the same rack, except that it is the 18u version. I also needed to have the switches and patch panels deeper in the rack to close the door, but wanted rails at the front for deeper items. I was about to buy brackets that would attach to the rails and for a 4u space provide mounts 3 inches further back. They were priced at $42 but had a $14 shipping charge. Then I discovered that I could get additional rails from NavePoint for $54, with no shipping charge. I now have 8 rails in the rack, and so I have a lot of flexibility about were to mount things, including items with four post mounts. Also, it seems to me that there is plenty of space outside the rails to route power cables, so that you could go almost all of the way to the back of the case. The fans are loud, so I just removed them. I'll be interested to learn if you find a satisfactory substitute.
Quite astonishing work
Nice
The more videos about stuff most videos on youtube are about the better.
Its great that channels like yours put the effort into making vids on things that most do not, and its good that so many people make videos on topics most simply do not.
There is always someone interested in such things, and is interested to see how tech professionals do stuff in there own unique way.
Hi Chris, regards your mention of rack mounting for Raspberry Pi. You can buy such of course but they are stupidly expensive. I noticed that a Pi is good fit in an 8 port bay in a network switch. I have an old Dell 16 port switch case with a broken power supply and it now houses a pair of Raspberry Pi's in my rack. Switches like this are cheap as chips on ebay and a 48 port switch should house 6 Pi. Lots of Netgear and Dell switches also use 5V power supply so even that is easy. Pics available if you are interested.
That particular modem is capable of being rack mounted. They actually make a bracket that attaches directly to it. Ask Comcast for the bracket!
I regularly have issues with cabinets and equipment depths, contractors install 390mm deep wall mounted cabinets and then big PoE switches don't fit or short floor standing cabinets where cable clearances are an issue. I like your use of Rackstuds, I have changed over to these on my own rack and would like clients to use them too but they are about 50% more expensive here in the UK for the 100 pack vs the old fashioned metal ones. As you say, rackstuds are ideal if you are frequently moving equipment in and out, I have injured myself so many times over the years on the old metal cage nuts.
Heyyy the LTT pad, I love mine. 12:00
I have this same rack and when you mentioned fiber on the front I knew you’d be moving the rails back later in video. Ask me how I know
what are the blue and red clips you are using, im assuming they replaced the normal nuts/screws you would use... Man, getting the nuts in leaves my fingers destroyed! these look at simpler.
😃 I got to min 16 and you cover these off, awesome!
If that rack is like my old baby rack and the back is solid/screwed in place, then it is likely helpful to know that the threading for the screws on that back panel is the same (or close enough to the same) as your standard PC thumb screw.
2yrs late, found this video, don't know if you ever found some solution for the Pis, in case you didn't, I advise Racknex, they have adapters ranging from 1U fitting 4 Pis up to 2U fitting 12 of them in 19", or up to 2 Pi in a 1U 10"
I have my NavePoint rack fan is plugged into a TPlink smartplug. My Home Assistant will turn it on when my Synology temp get above my comfort zone
Great idea. Do you trigger it manually or your synology somehow tells the temperature threshold to your home assistant?
Love the dog ... and yes, the video was well done, too! Thank you.
That t-shirt is amazing.
Nice Rack big guy!! LOL Thanks! and Happy New Year!!
So in summary, apart from it being the wrong rack for the job, its a nice rack.... This would probably be a really nice one tor a cinema amplifier rack, if not for the noisy fans and closed back. Most rack equipment is getting so long these days with the need for cramming as much functionality as possible into each device, that the "small" form factor racks are getting to shallow.
But I would want to know the purpose of those blind plugs in ports 16-21 on the USW-PRO.
Really great efforts. You didnt use network Rails to mount the server on each rail and keep a gap between each device?
Hmm, wonder how much demand there'd be for a rack that can accept the same kind of castors/wheels as office chairs use. I just wonder, because I recently saw office chair "wheels" that were actually sliding pucks, designed to make it easier to slide over deep-pile carpet without catching.
I don't imagine there'd be many people who keep that sort of thing *_on_* deep-pile carpet, but it's clearly a non-zero number ;)
I got one of these racks from NavePoint, but made the mistake of not ensuring it was deep enough for the 48 POE Switch Pro. So I ended up going with the EA unifi rack, but no way to get an additional 24 port patch panel to match.
I almost had the same problem. I then realized it wasn't deep enough. Good thing NavePoint has "deep" versions of all their racks. And yes, you're one of thousands, including me, who wish they could get more of those aluminum finished unifi patch panels. People with the rack who need more than one have the same problem as you. Many have made their own by spray painting the most similar Rust Oleum can they could find.
Great Job.
Congrats.
If ubiquiti kept sock of their doorbell
I LOVE when you use SI-units 😊😊
I have a Navepoint case as well in a closet. The included fans are super loud and I think started failing. I want to replace them with some Noctua fans, but not sure those will move as much air and have to figure out wiring for 12v 3pin vs the 120v. Let me know what you end up switching out for.
Jeff Geerling has reviewed a 1u solution that would help for the pi.
It’s what I noted blow
I want sudies this model
Responsibilities:
1 Scanning and installing server racks as they come in.
2 Connect the racks to the network.
Troubleshoot hardware.
3 Housekeeping. · Adhere to security and safety best practices in the data centre. · Installation and testing of copper and Fibre Optic cabling. · Basic build and troubleshooting of network devices. · Regularly lift 15kg or move heavy objects into position. · Regularly work at heights and from ladders. · Managing inventory of related materials. · Adhering to defined escalation processes and standard operating procedures. · Work in noisy areas with hotter and colder temperatures than standard office environmental conditions. · Ability to travel within geographical work area is required,
If you’re concerned about the noise of these fans then don’t even think about putting your 3D printer in the office… remember that some prints can take a long time and you can’t easily pause that when you’re recording a new video.
Proper motor drivers will be quiet enough, but I would be more worried about the lower frequency vibration it creates (and transfers into the rack).
I am in the planning phase of building a rack using extruded aluminum and the vertical rails I am using have a tapped 10-32 threaded hole to them... I will keep you up to date when the building starts. :)
Have 2 similar racks, one of the first things I did was swap out those fans.. really loud.. swapped them out for noctua 12v fans with adapters and smart plug to control on off times.. patchbox kinda cool but is ridiculous expensive.. what power device is that you have in the top rear of your rack.. looks very cool.,
Lookin Awesome
Suggestion: Buy some fans that are USB based powered ... Amazon has some chooses that might work for you.
Once again a great video. :)
I just wanted to ask if you could make a video about Pi Hole.
How to install it with UDM Pro?
Do Home Asistent and Pi Hole need to be installed on different Raspberry Pies?
What can be advantages using it with Synology (docker) ...
How have you set it all up or something like this?
I think a lot of us will appreciate that video.
I run a pi-hole on a Raspberry Pi but I also run a second instance in docker on my Synology NAS. I figured that running my DNS only in Synology would be too disruptive if I need to power cycle the NAS so I did keep the instance on a Pi too. Having both means I can update either without impact so long as I do them one at a time.
I also run Home Assistant. I used to run it on a Pi but I moved it into docker on my Synology a couple of years ago. I find it easier to keep docker instances up to date (with docker-compose) than keeping a bunch of little computers up to date. The only Pi I run now is for pi-hole.
Tnx...
I don't have anything yet but I am looking different opinions and how different people have things arranged before I get into buying stuff....tnx again
;)
I think the twist tool is as use (fulll/useless) as a solar powered night lamp.
summary: don't think you are going to fit everything in a standard 450mm deep rack. go with 600.
you need space for cables (power cabels behind, network, fiber cabels in the front.
Why stack them on top of each other when there's so much space? They can run quite hot if stacked so...
you should have just put the rack together upstairs crosstalk save you alot of headache if that's where you where gonna put it
Sad to see the UDM-SE not pluged in
I'm looking at networking my house and have been looking at racks, cables, all the things. One thing I realized, I think I lost the mounting hardware for my Unifi equipment. Any thoughts on where I can get replacements? UI support wasn't much help
Great video
Love the setup...What are you using for battery backup?
I've been wanting to do something like this but put it either in my garage or attic but wondering how to control dust.
Hey Chris...nice video. Maybe I missed it through the video but was just curious what you use the QNAP-QDG-1600P switch for? Just wondering since everything else is Unifi. Thanks.
Why don’t any ISPs or modem manufacturers make a rack mounted modem?
I printed exactly 1 thing with my FDM printer in my office. Way too loud. To the garage it went.
Never mind, Every time, you really mean it.
Internet cabinet installing and A to z learning work and every tools name tell??
I honestly thought that was a rack fridge for keeping the rack cool
Is it safe to store an enclosed fanned rack in a dusty garage that's used by cars?
Thanks for the video. Any chance you have a discount code for purchasing the Untwist Tool V2?
You have Padded the Rack, Did you used something special or regular "Sponge"?
(Also on one of the quick looks on the top, It looks like you padded and blocked the fans ?)
I would have returned that rack and got the 600mm depth version.
Did my Twitter comment convince you to move forward with the 3D printer?
Thanks for sharing, like it :)
I do not recommend putting the 3D printer on top of the rack, especially when there is a NAS there. 3D printers create a lot of vibrations on various frequencies, even if there is no spinning HDDs inside, constant vibration might degrade something sooner or later.
How are you making the rack diagrams in the rack planning section?
Can I ask a question is the fan normally on the top
next to de flex is the connect display ? XD
The 15U 600mm is much more flexible, and then putting heavy bends in the power cables is never a great idea. A lot EU plugs have 90 degree cable outs and would suite this rack a lot better. Unless space is limited I wouldn't opt for the 450mm.
What is the UniFi looking power component visible in 20:05?
can the entire rack be mounted to a wall ?
what's going on with those headphones hahah!!!
Well good video but I think you should do a more investigation before buying this rack. No space for your NAS Server, Patch box, etc. If the intent was to show all potential issues then it is as a very good video!
Hi, how did you install the pdu from the back. Especially as its not removable
What is the reference of the old patch panel? (Unifi color)
Does the untwist tool work on bonded cables? Or is it just for untwisting?
What network device do you use for your vlans? I currently have a Cisco Catalyst 1000 Series with POE and web interface enabled that I could use for vlan if I new how to configure it or get something like you have
As for Raspberry Pi, talk to Jeff Geerling
Will 3750x and a asr router fit in this 15u rack?
Is it good to put a xbox in there for cloud streaming
Why did you stop using pfsense?
Let's have a shot every time the word "rack" is mentioned!
What is the video display unit that is on top of the shelf does anyone know?
Swap em with noctua fans
What Corsair case is that
Bulldog, from '16~'17
Those fans are loud, I can only barely hear them on the next floor...
Even before finishing looking at the video: I would never even touch a rack less than 60cm (2 feet) deep.
industrial switch in your attic? Just run the cable to your rack
👍
@3:23 Did anyone yell PIVOT!!
what did you connect the fans to? to control them ?
nice
21:40 all this centimeter talk has me confused!
You simply needed to have bought a suitable deeper/wider rack - would have solved pretty much all your problems...
AC Infinity RACK ROOF FAN KIT
I just installed these. Plug and play. Everything lines up and mounts directly. AC power running DC fans. At least half if not more as quiet as the stock loud Navepoint fans and they come with a push button speed controller. I can no longer hear the network rack in my master bedroom closet when they are at half speed. Perfect.
Amazon “UCTRONICS 1U Rack for Raspberry Pi”
Did you really put LED strips in the rack?
Yes.
be quiet fans are better try to replace em with be quiet.
Could I buy your unifi rack?
Hi Chris,
love your video's and understand perfectly advertisements very well. But I just wanted to let you know that I just got political message from a rightwing Belgian political party that is using the war in Ukraine to defend their (in my opinion wrong) refugee refusing program. I guess you are not aware which advertisements (or categories, in this case political) are shown between your video's. So just you know.
Keep up the good work!
To use an untwist tool is from an electrical engineering standpoint quite stupid. The wires are twisted for a reason and should be twisted for as long as possible. I've build connections up to Cat. 7A and Class I (Cat 8) and never used such a tool or have seen it been used by a professional. Of course one has to untwist parts of the wire, but that can be easily done by hand, especially at Cat 5e cable. There are tools for the classic cage nut. But hey are a pain in the ...
Also, as a European I am quite surprised how many Amaricans still use Cat 5e.
oh my god, i hope they don't work like that in a DC ! so much words, energy...twist tools ....for....for....really don't do that
man.. av cabinet. no willingness to get the right hardware. doing it on the carpet.
You have beautiful ambition and energy but it would have been a lot better if you just slowed down and waited to do it right.