It is very easy to wire in a couple of mushroom switches; I put a couple around different working places to make them easy to hit. I would suggest going on eBay and buy used Allen Bradley 800T momentary Switches. They just don't make them like that any more.
Mike ... In addition to cleaning the ways, don't forget to clean the underside of them as well. Gunk will accumulate there and make the banjo, tailstock, and headstock harder to move.
I have the PM 2014. Mine came with a little plastic knob on the knock out bar, so I cast and turned a large resin glow in the dark punisher sphere to thread on and it works much better. I really like the one you have with the hammer action.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Almost no vibration especially when I turn burls and its the only lathe I know of with a built in vacuum chuck system, Nick Cook played a big role in designing it.
I love mine, but it has taken me a long time to get used to the spindle lock. I have a tendency to lock the spindle to remove a chuck or faceplate, but forget to unlock it before hitting the start button. I'm much better now, but I wish the spindle lock was spring loaded (momentary switch). Thanks for your observations.
I find myself doing that sometimes as well. The key is always getting in the habit of spining the work by hand to make sure it clears. That will also remind you to turn off the spinlde lock.
Glad to here the review on this one Mike. Have question for you; had multiple surgeries in past month and haven't been out the shed/studio. Here in Florida the rust can take over. What can I do as it covered the band saw table and one small section of the lathe. (I sprayed the bed with wd-40 before the operations) and the tool rest is also rusted. Thank you for suggestions and life experience. Like the , "God is Good" sign!
I've often wondered about the safety consequences of making the controls movable. It seems to me that for safety reason, you need to be able to automatically reach out to the off switch without having to think about where it is. If the controls are movable, then there is the risk that they could be in a different location each time you use the lathe. What has been your experience with this? My 'starter lathe' had the controls attached to the headstock, but when I moved to a larger machine, they were under the tailstock. It took me forever to retrain myself to reflexively know that the on-off switch had moved.
You raise a valid concern. I only move mine when working at the end of the lathe. I practice turning it off in the new position so hopefully it will be a reflex if an emergancy happens.
Very valid points. I must admit on my ShopSmith i often have to take a step or an awkward reach under the bandsaw and around to the headstock area to turn off/on. Harder if working with a larger piece of wood.
Only problem I have with 3520C is the start and stop buttons. If I hit the stop button and hit the start button to go back to turning it will not start. I only use the potentiometer to start and stop it.
Agree with Mike. I have the same machine and while I have had no other lathes with which to compare, my switches work fine. Sounds like you may need some troubleshooting. The only ‘upgrade’ I’ve done is to fix an M42 steel rod to the edge of the stock tool rest. My chisels would hang up on the stock one no matter how much waxing or dressing with a flat file. Very noticeable upgrade and easy. Visit D-Way Tools for more on it. I’ve placed the control box near my right hip and have gotten used to it.
I guess I'm not the only one who has asked you that, Mike. And I certainly understand the nits.
Great Videos, Thanks, I have a LAGUNA lathe, I use Johnsons paste wax on all slides. Keeps rust down and everything slides great.
Great tip!
It is very easy to wire in a couple of mushroom switches; I put a couple around different working places to make them easy to hit. I would suggest going on eBay and buy used Allen Bradley 800T momentary Switches. They just don't make them like that any more.
Mike ... In addition to cleaning the ways, don't forget to clean the underside of them as well. Gunk will accumulate there and make the banjo, tailstock, and headstock harder to move.
I tend not to do that every day but do it periodically. It is amazing how dust can clog up.
Got my 3520C as my 1st lathe over a year ago and love it.
Good to see a follow up. Always nice to know how things work out over time and experience with a tool.
Thanks 👍
Love my C....bought the bed extension(not used yet) at a deal. And the swing away tailstock is sweet!..love it. Tks and have a great weekend!😃👍🏻👍🏻
Good choice!
I have the PM 2014. Mine came with a little plastic knob on the knock out bar, so I cast and turned a large resin glow in the dark punisher sphere to thread on and it works much better. I really like the one you have with the hammer action.
I know that yours is beautiful! That little PM looks like an awesome machine.
Thanks, Mike!
You bet!
i wish they would have had the led adapter painted to match the rest of the 100 year tool color scheme
I don't notice it anymore.
Bought my PM 4224B at the Tampa Symposium in 2013 can't say enough good things about it.
That is a big one!
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Almost no vibration especially when I turn burls and its the only lathe I know of with a built in vacuum chuck system, Nick Cook played a big role in designing it.
I love mine, but it has taken me a long time to get used to the spindle lock. I have a tendency to lock the spindle to remove a chuck or faceplate, but forget to unlock it before hitting the start button. I'm much better now, but I wish the spindle lock was spring loaded (momentary switch). Thanks for your observations.
I find myself doing that sometimes as well. The key is always getting in the habit of spining the work by hand to make sure it clears. That will also remind you to turn off the spinlde lock.
Interesting, I’m thinking about upgrading to a 3520 B which is still available and substantially cheaper than the C model.
The 3520b is not available new. PM had some sales and sold out about the time the c model was introduced.
If you are ever coming to Australia let me know. 😊 I'm in Geelong near Melbourne. 😊 👍 🍻 🇦🇺
Deal! I would love to visit Australia one of these days, James.
Glad to here the review on this one Mike. Have question for you; had multiple surgeries in past month and haven't been out the shed/studio. Here in Florida the rust can take over. What can I do as it covered the band saw table and one small section of the lathe. (I sprayed the bed with wd-40 before the operations) and the tool rest is also rusted. Thank you for suggestions and life experience. Like the , "God is Good" sign!
Use T9 as a rust preventative, not WD40. That's what T9 was made for.
Thanks, brother. As Ken suggested. The product is Boeshield T-9 Spray
Thank you, will buy one today!
I've often wondered about the safety consequences of making the controls movable. It seems to me that for safety reason, you need to be able to automatically reach out to the off switch without having to think about where it is. If the controls are movable, then there is the risk that they could be in a different location each time you use the lathe. What has been your experience with this?
My 'starter lathe' had the controls attached to the headstock, but when I moved to a larger machine, they were under the tailstock. It took me forever to retrain myself to reflexively know that the on-off switch had moved.
I moved the control to the right of the lathe and it stays there. That way I never have to reach across the spinning piece to shut off the lathe
You raise a valid concern. I only move mine when working at the end of the lathe. I practice turning it off in the new position so hopefully it will be a reflex if an emergancy happens.
Very valid points. I must admit on my ShopSmith i often have to take a step or an awkward reach under the bandsaw and around to the headstock area to turn off/on. Harder if working with a larger piece of wood.
Only problem I have with 3520C is the start and stop buttons. If I hit the stop button and hit the start button to go back to turning it will not start. I only use the potentiometer to start and stop it.
I have not experienced that. I would call PM tech support as something is not working properly.
Agree with Mike. I have the same machine and while I have had no other lathes with which to compare, my switches work fine. Sounds like you may need some troubleshooting. The only ‘upgrade’ I’ve done is to fix an M42 steel rod to the edge of the stock tool rest. My chisels would hang up on the stock one no matter how much waxing or dressing with a flat file. Very noticeable upgrade and easy. Visit D-Way Tools for more on it. I’ve placed the control box near my right hip and have gotten used to it.
@@Ethan-pb3jq Thanks for the tip!
Do you think you'd like a pedal switch to replace the button switch
That would not work for me. Every time you stepped away fro tha lathe trying to reposition a foot on a pedal? Awkward. I know of no one who does that.
The only thing I don't like about mine is I have to fiddle with the tool rest lock to get the tool rest to seat
I find it easy to insert my finger to push the clamp to the wall instead of trying to push it into place with the tool rest post.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning same here but it's my nit pick
I love the God is Good sticker
I had one on my other lathe so found a color matching replacement for this one.
can I have your old lathe I would pay for shipping
It was sold 6 mos ago. Sorry.😅
Hİ 👋👌👍