You forgot to increase the size of the intercooler, that's why your turbos were breaking. I built the same engine to make sure and it worked. I got the 1000hp just fine. Although after seeing the car's handling, it might have been a good thing you had less power.
Hey it’s me, the guy who really wanted that V16 Group C car all those years ago. Your creation skills have improved a lot since the Owl all those years ago, so I would appreciate it if you did another crack at making a Group C car, this time with the famous 7 liter Jaguar V12 (the same one in the XJR-9). As a longtime subscriber I look forward to (hopefully) seeing it built and many other models you make over the years. Cheers.
Automation seems to be fairly accurate to real life when it comes to max RPM compared to engine stroke length. As such, there's no point going smaller than a 60mm to 75mm stroke given that the rev limit is 12000rpm. 60mm should be able to do it all day without needing +15 quality, and 75mm can do exactly 12000 with +5 quality. Also, just as a shorthand reference, the best stroke lengths to use for nice round RPM numbers at various piston speeds IRL would be 40mm, 45mm, 48mm, 50mm, 60mm, 75, 80, 90, 96mm, 100mm, and 120mm, with only the latter 7 being useful in automation as long as the 12,000rpm limit stands. Also, if you want to keep with realism at any point, your bore/stroke ratio shouldn't be lower than 0.8 or higher than 2.5 to 1. Also, most racing engines are going to have a 90-100mm bore +/- 10mm at the absolute most. This is due to the need to balance having enough valve area to fill the cylinder at high RPM as well as needing the pistons to not weigh a metric ton so that they can actually SURVIVE at high RPM. The only outliers to these rules of thumb seem to be oddballs like that 2.0L v16, motorcycle engines under 800cc and over 3 cylinders, and dedicated dragsters like top fuel and funny cars; NONE of which are really applicable to 95% of automation builds.
you should make a dtm car like the older ones, these new ones are just plain gt3 cars, the 2010's dtm german sedans are crazy looking, just like super gt cars
@@automotiveflux I'm a Beamng player and I play with a wheel, can be good to see you optimise some project you've already done to be nicely drivable with a wheel. Maybe an idea
If/when you do another Boral video, could you export booth racing Boral with black part rather than carbon fiber parts so it looks better in BeamNG? I love em booth btw!
You're having the rear engine high speed stability issue. i had that problem to when trying to make Porsche replicas from Automation. On way of getting rid of that problem is to have a front wing and no rear wing. Then, maximize the down-force in the front and turn off the down-force in the rear. The engine will provide the rear down-force naturally. If you want to, try that in a video and see how that goes.
This was fun, thanks! Also, if you used this as a daily you should plan on all the milk you get from the grocery store will be at least butter by the time you get it home... 😁
I actually did a gt3 car, albeit I did make the road car from the track car, it's a 4L v16 with the power of a heavy weight gt3 car but the car is lighter than most of the light weight cars in gt3, but it's barely above the minimum weight limit, I just need to give it more downforce
If it's so, then it's a shame, since there's a hell of lot more straight-8s (which are really half of a V-16) and twins (either straight, 60 or 90°, or boxer) than V-16s. Say you wanted to make a 1950s or 60s Bugo. A straight twin, either longitudinal or latitudinal, or a boxer twin would ne a great engine for it.
its body morphing, theres a button to enable it on the bottom right, just under the options for the car. the morphing button shows up when on trim selection or paint selection, i cant remember which one
Meeds more downforce in the front, having rear engine weight and downforce is like having the weight of one of those 10,000 hp drag car engines on only rear wheels. If you have a bit less rear downforce and more in the front it would probably be a bit better, it's kinda like a reverse truck, no weight on one side but a lot on the other, also having a lot of weight behind the rear axle can almost "lift" the front but not off the groud, basically just puts less weight on the front if you add weight to the back, probably not a ton though because of how torque works
Do you not have ears? I guess you don't have ears, he said at the beginning that it wasn't a prober DTM car, and that it was going to be a DTM style car
That death wobble on the dragstrip at high speed 😂
Increase those sway bars my boy
You forgot to increase the size of the intercooler, that's why your turbos were breaking. I built the same engine to make sure and it worked. I got the 1000hp just fine. Although after seeing the car's handling, it might have been a good thing you had less power.
Thanks for the tip, figured I was missing something
@@automotiveflux Can we have the link for the cars when you are done?
Hey it’s me, the guy who really wanted that V16 Group C car all those years ago.
Your creation skills have improved a lot since the Owl all those years ago, so I would appreciate it if you did another crack at making a Group C car, this time with the famous 7 liter Jaguar V12 (the same one in the XJR-9). As a longtime subscriber I look forward to (hopefully) seeing it built and many other models you make over the years.
Cheers.
this car totally fits the DTM rulebook
Automation seems to be fairly accurate to real life when it comes to max RPM compared to engine stroke length. As such, there's no point going smaller than a 60mm to 75mm stroke given that the rev limit is 12000rpm. 60mm should be able to do it all day without needing +15 quality, and 75mm can do exactly 12000 with +5 quality.
Also, just as a shorthand reference, the best stroke lengths to use for nice round RPM numbers at various piston speeds IRL would be 40mm, 45mm, 48mm, 50mm, 60mm, 75, 80, 90, 96mm, 100mm, and 120mm, with only the latter 7 being useful in automation as long as the 12,000rpm limit stands. Also, if you want to keep with realism at any point, your bore/stroke ratio shouldn't be lower than 0.8 or higher than 2.5 to 1.
Also, most racing engines are going to have a 90-100mm bore +/- 10mm at the absolute most. This is due to the need to balance having enough valve area to fill the cylinder at high RPM as well as needing the pistons to not weigh a metric ton so that they can actually SURVIVE at high RPM. The only outliers to these rules of thumb seem to be oddballs like that 2.0L v16, motorcycle engines under 800cc and over 3 cylinders, and dedicated dragsters like top fuel and funny cars; NONE of which are really applicable to 95% of automation builds.
Just wanted to say that DTM and GT3 are not the same thing. DTM is like even more extreme GT3
Maybe he was trying a mix of the two?
Moar tuning! Gotta be able to settle it a bit even if it costs some speed. I ckuffing love the DTM model. Just needs some taming.
I deleted automation to make room for mw2 but this video made me redownload it lmao. Back to work on my Swedish car company
you should make a dtm car like the older ones, these new ones are just plain gt3 cars, the 2010's dtm german sedans are crazy looking, just like super gt cars
When the supercharger update comes out you should do a brand new cobra r and or terminator mustang based on the s550/s650 chassis
there's an sn95 body on steam, he could do a gt500 swapped sn95
Every time I watch one of your videos, I'm always inspired to do something like you and today is no different. I guess I'm making a GT3 car now :D
The DTM mould make a great drift missile
why dont you get a steering wheel? keyboard controls are awful for this game and should be avoided
Raw input yes, but an optomized keyboard input is viable.
He has a g29, idk why he doesnt use it, maybe not enough desk space
@@scarface_pt he can just use a peice of plywood or something clamped to the desk to act as extra space, that’s jank but it works
Exactly this
@@automotiveflux I'm a Beamng player and I play with a wheel, can be good to see you optimise some project you've already done to be nicely drivable with a wheel.
Maybe an idea
Problem is, if you make it into a DTM car, would've been nice if you kept to the era's rules :D
If/when you do another Boral video, could you export booth racing Boral with black part rather than carbon fiber parts so it looks better in BeamNG?
I love em booth btw!
You're having the rear engine high speed stability issue. i had that problem to when trying to make Porsche replicas from Automation. On way of getting rid of that problem is to have a front wing and no rear wing. Then, maximize the down-force in the front and turn off the down-force in the rear. The engine will provide the rear down-force naturally. If you want to, try that in a video and see how that goes.
Nice video! For Automation i hope we will get diesel engines and that the sounds from Automation will export to Beamng
I love your videos, could you make a hybrid car please, since one of my favorite cars is the 997 gt3r hybrid
Awesome News for the Game!
Superchargers, finally!
Yoooooo tiburon gang 🔥🔥🔥🔥
This was fun, thanks!
Also, if you used this as a daily you should plan on all the milk you get from the grocery store will be at least butter by the time you get it home...
😁
Now we need a rally series car!
Sick car, bro,but I like the hatch better.
I love your videos ❤ is it possible to put your cars on the BeamNG repo ? 😅
great video! Now how about a mid or rear engined bugo?
yo hyped for the supercharger update
Another real good looking car !
Should turn it into a WRC car next
Less power to the rear and more to the front would help with the stability on the dragrace
I actually did a gt3 car, albeit I did make the road car from the track car, it's a 4L v16 with the power of a heavy weight gt3 car but the car is lighter than most of the light weight cars in gt3, but it's barely above the minimum weight limit, I just need to give it more downforce
I had a WRX that was virtually the same color of red.
Can i just point out the space frame is lighter then a monocoque, so u can go even lighter..
supercharged limo? maybe?
The carbon fiber paint is always messed up in beam no matter the darkness or colour
Hyundai says BACK INSIDE TO YOUR COMPUTER. YOU WILL NOT BE DRIVING ANYWHERE.
Thats a mean machine
Is there any way to download the car in the video??
Day 2 of calmly requesting a VW type 2 competitor
that's a THICC car, mmhhmm
This is just a Dodge muscle car from Europe.
Over one year later still no superchargers.
my skill on detail are garbage
pretty impossible you actually featured my car 💀💀💀💀💀
Hey umm... why does quality say unavailable? (For vid)
Sidenote, completely unrelated but
1:28 that is some of the worst topology I've seen in a while lol
I would love to know your mod list I’m looking for more
Everything on the steam workshop
Will there be straight-8s or twins?
Probably not
If it's so, then it's a shame, since there's a hell of lot more straight-8s (which are really half of a V-16) and twins (either straight, 60 or 90°, or boxer) than V-16s. Say you wanted to make a 1950s or 60s Bugo. A straight twin, either longitudinal or latitudinal, or a boxer twin would ne a great engine for it.
What pack does the intercooler come from?
Now idea lol check the steam workshop though
How do you pull the body of the car like that in 10:17? I’ve seen so many people do it and I cant do it
its body morphing, theres a button to enable it on the bottom right, just under the options for the car. the morphing button shows up when on trim selection or paint selection, i cant remember which one
FIRST!!!!!!!!
NOBODY CARES!!!!!!!!!!
@@Animated_guy_OG lol
@@Animated_guy_OG :(
@@taylorschoppe9656 sorry
Just kidding I'm not
Mod list?
What about wankel engines??? 😅
Meeds more downforce in the front, having rear engine weight and downforce is like having the weight of one of those 10,000 hp drag car engines on only rear wheels. If you have a bit less rear downforce and more in the front it would probably be a bit better, it's kinda like a reverse truck, no weight on one side but a lot on the other, also having a lot of weight behind the rear axle can almost "lift" the front but not off the groud, basically just puts less weight on the front if you add weight to the back, probably not a ton though because of how torque works
this is not a DTM car, its not a proper DTM car, how could you call it a DTM car
Do you not have ears? I guess you don't have ears, he said at the beginning that it wasn't a prober DTM car, and that it was going to be a DTM style car
@@ltfleming3858 weird, I don't have ears if I wrote exactly word for word what he said, called a joke mate but cheers!