Wood Turning How I use Polycrylic for a Great Finish
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- I was ask about using Polycrylic in my video on the ball turned from 12 pentagons so here is a short video showing how I use it.
Polycrylic water based and very easy to put on.
It drys very fast. It was a very hot day when I did this and when I put it on thin it really drys fast. I was able to easily lightly sand and put a fresh coat on in less than 30 minutes .
This is a mid week video poster per request. I have a new one for this Friday as well.
I am not connected with or sponsored by Minwax
Any product I like I am willing to share my thoughts on it.
I am not sponsored by anyone.
The Segmented Sphere
• Wood Turning Segmented...
Materials used:
Minwax water based sanding sealer
Minwax Polycrylic
Acks Abrasive Paste
If you found this video entertaining:
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The video is for entertainment purposes only
Look up other turnings I have done:
Dizzy Twister Turnings Segmented Turnings
Feature Rings Staves
Pierre Lussier inspired vase Mike Waldt inspired vase
Star bowl Block bowl
Tumbling bowls Emerging Bowls Black Locust Vase
Droop Bowl Offset Bowl Barrel of Blocks Star Bowl Bowl in a Bowl
Droop Bowl Lathe modifications Lacquer Shellac Friction Polish
Abrasive Paste Polishing Paste Wipe on Poly
Black Locust Hollow Form
Multi Axis Square Bowl
Siberian Elm Hollow Form
Sphere made from 60 Triangles
Dodecahedron Soccer Ball Sphere
#woodturning
#dizzybowl
#segment
I use those triangular foam makeup pads women use to apply makeup. I get them at Walmart and they’re cheap. With water based finishes, you can wash them out a few times and reuse them. Thanks for the video
Great tip! I will look into that. I also like to use micromesh or just an old t-shirt.
Thanks for watching Greg/
Take care,
Gary
Do you find this product to be tough after it's fully cured? How does it compare with a typical oil-based minwax polyurethane for resisting scratches?
Yes it is very tough. I would say equal to their oil based. I made our son a table years ago and used it for the finish. They use it everyday as a kitchen table. I did wonder at the time but after testing found it to be fine.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
This is the most unique way I've seen of applying polycrylic; it's hard to argue with the results. Did you rinse out the cloth or do anything to prevent it from hardening in between applications?
Thank you very much. I put it in a sandwich bag that you can seal. Keeps a long time this way.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Thank you this is a nice finish. But would you do that on a salad bowl? Would it be food safe?
Thanks I am happy you liked it. I would not use it on a salad bowl myself.
As far as food safe I do not know if this is or not. Some self proclaimed experts will tell you that all finishes are food safe once cured. Then some say if it builds a layer that can come off it is not food safe.
I make very few turnings that are meant to eat off of.
Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
By the way I have been inspired by a few of the vases you have made. Very beautiful!
Gary
Thank you for the question - and answer. I am new with wood turning & wanted to know this exact question. Marcus from Chesapeake VA.
I just used the matte finish on some reclaimed cypress & it darkened the wood significantly. Would like to get it back to its original state before the topcoat (I only did one coat) but the wood is old & I'm concerned about it holding up to all the sanding. Any other topcoats that do NOT darken wood?
When you say Top Coat what did you use? With Polycrylic I like the Minwax Water Based Sanding sealer.
Or did you use matte finish Polycrylic.
I also use Deft lacquer to keep from changing the tone of the wood.
Let me know what you used for sure and I will give you some ideas.
Gary
What is the difference between cellulose sanding sealer and wood sanding sealer? I have the minwax wood sanding sealer and it seems to work fine. I thought cellulose was another term for "wood like material". I think i will also get that polycrylic finish! Looks great!
My understanding is cellulose sanding sealer is lacquer based. If your talking about the Minwax water based sanding sealer then the difference is lacquer vs. water.
I like and use both types. There is also shellac based sanding sealer and I use that as well.
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 I have nearly the same exact thing on my lathe right now except it has a small rim. I am almost finished sanding. It is also black locust.
Very informative and useful information. One thing I like is that it does not darken the wood like oil based finishes do. And the spray on fills little imperfections too.
Thank you John! I have not tried the spray on. I would like to but it seems it would be a lot more costly. I may try it and if I like it I could use one of my spray guns to put it on. Although with lacquer I use the spray cans to avoid the cleanup.
Thanks for watching and the tip.
Gary
One question: will this process prevent yellowing of wood when exposed to direct outside light? I have been using Livos oil finish in the past.
It states it is for indoor use only and will not withstand UV.
I do not put any thing where it will be in direct sun light so I am not sure how it would do indoors with sun light hitting it.
Hello and hope all is well. I was wondering if I can add polycrylic to a coffee table that I have Painted With Black Paint. Is That possible?
You can put Polycrylic over all finishes. I would go over the black paint with fine steel wool or scotch brite. Or even very fine sandpaper. I assume the black paint is fully dry.
Best of luck,
Gary
Good video. Didn't expect 2 other ingredients though. Very educational thanks
Thank you. I feel the sanding sealer is important to the finish. But it could be done without it.
The abrasive paste is just something I tend to use on most things.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Looks great! Do you think I could just wipe this stuff onto a board straight out of the can? Do you think it would be better to thin it a bit?
Thank you Joshua. Right out of the can is best. i never think it down. Make sure the first coat is plenty as it will soak it in. After that I wipe it on much thinner and it dries very fast.
I do use the water based sanding sealer first but you can use this by itself if you do not have any.
Best of luck,
Gary
hello my friend thank you is this product water based varnish what is this product
Thank you Cem. It is a water based polyurethane. It works very good and is easy to put on. It is made by Minwax.
It comes in spray but I used the wipe on or brush on.
www.minwax.com/wood-products/clear-protective-finishes/interior/minwax-polycrylic-protective-finish
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Do you just use paper towels to apple the sanding sealer and the polycrylic or do you use a fabric cloth?
I use a soft cotton to wipe it down.
Gary, have you been watching my videos? That's exactly how I finish 98% of my turnings. Been doing it for years. In fact, I use so much of the sanding sealer, I buy it a gallon at a time. Getting ready to order my 5th gallon. And, I really like water-based products, easy clean up and most of all, they work. Nice of you to spread the word. Take care, Larry
I have seen you use the water based sealer in a lot of your videos Larry.
It does work great.
I put it on the same way I put on wipe on poly and shellac. I like putting it on and then wiping it off leaving a thin coat. The Polycrylic and the wipe on poly dry much faster that way.
I think everyone should try the Polycrylic . Might be the easiest finish to put on. But not the only one I will use.
Depending on the piece I like all the others equally.
I buy lacquer and shellac and the shellac seal coat by the gallon as well.
Take care,
Gary
Thanks for the tips from both of you. I may have to switch up to water base products because everything else just costs a fortune in materials to finish a project.
@@ThePapa1947 I've tried lacquer and shellac, but I get as good finish with water-based products and not near the hassle. See ya on the next one, Larry
Larry when I think back on it I have used lacquer for over 58 years and that is all I used for a long time and some varnish. But a lot of new finishes have showed up since then.
What is your thoughts on water based polyurethane compared to Polycrylic? I think the Polycrylic drys faster but they seem very similar to me.
See ya,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 Funny you asked. I recently ran out of Minwax Polycrylic and Amazon was out. So I bought Varathane Water-based Polyurethane. Quite honestly I cannot tell the difference. Dries just as fast, has a shine, sands easy. However, recently I've just quit with Minwax sanding sealer. About 4 or 5 coats and it buffs very nicely. I was thinking about just going with the Poly next time and forgo the sealer. They look the same to me. After I cut my tenon off I've been finishing the bottom with just poly, no sealer. Seems to work quite well, can't tell the difference. It seals and buffs. What else do we need? Ask 10 people and you will get 10 different answers and I always say "Whatever blows your skirt up is fine with me" LOL. Take care, Larry
Thanks for the video! I use this on furniture like nightstands and dresser tops. I have been wondering how i can get an even smoother finish. I try to do 3 coats sprayed on, but unless you apply it in a clean room, you usually have a few specs here and there. I liked how you used the polishing paste at the end cause won't even a fine scotch brite leave an opaque finish?
Thank you Steve. I have never sprayed it although I have thought of doing so.
A final finish with fine scotch brite looks good but when I do segmented work I like that deep shine you can get with the abrasive paste and the polishing paste.
On natural turnings I usually leave the polishing paste off.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 It sprays quite well actually. I use a Wagner sprayer for small projects and it does well. I'm sure a pneumatic sprayer would do much better but I'm happy with the results the Wagner gives me. I'm gonna try the polishing paste and see if I can get an even smoother finish! Thanks for the tip!
Hi Gary.... very informative video... I haven't tried it yet but it's always good to have another finish to fall back on... thank you for sharing.... take care...All the best.....Andy
Thank you Andy. I do not have a one finish for all woods. Rather I use many types depending on the wood and the turning. Always nice to be able to choose.
Take care,
Gary
What is the sanding sealer for? What if you just go right to the poly?
The sanding sealer is thinner so penetrates farther. It does not have any thing added so it sands easier.
Just started watching your videos love them
I have a question what is your take on carbide
Thank you Terry and I am happy to have you watch my videos.
I think carbides are great and I use them myself for a lot of things.
Actually when I started many years ago before carbide and all the choices of bowl gouges we used high speed steel that were basically the shape of today's carbides. They basically were scrapers. I still use one in particular that I refer to as my hogging tool. That one is made of a piece of stellite.
So what every works for you is fine.
Hope this helps ..if not feel free to ask more about it.
Thanks again for watching.
Take care,
Gary
I use polycrylic and got a ton of bubbles
How do you apply it? I always wipe it on with a cloth. I make sure there are no streaks and then I will put 2 or 3 more coats on.
There should be no bubbles doing that or even with a sponge brush which is another method.
Will this yellow on colored stains? In example, I'm working on a guitar and want to color it a bright green, blue, pink, or something, but in past experiences I have used polyurethane and it ended up yellowing the color overtime almost like nicotine stains
Robert I have found polyurethane to makes things a bit yellow even from the start. All of the Polycrylic I have used has remained as clear as can be. I have not used it over a stain but I still think it will remain clear. I would make sure the stain is totally dry.
Best of luck,
Gary
love the finished look. with the two minwax products you used and acks paste would this be food safe? still going to try this process of yours but would like to know if its food safe. thanks
Thank you and I can tell you that the Acks products are listed as food safe. As far as the Mixwax products I can not speak for them. It seems it might depend on what you put in them. I make very few turnings that are meant to put food in. And then it is for wrapped candy and things like that. I would never put any liquid or moist food in any wood bowl no matter if the finish said food safe on it. There are a lot of theories on when a finish can be considered food safe but I stay out of that because if you read enough you will find the answer you are looking for.
Sorry I am no help with it and I would suggest a little research and I know there are some wood working groups on Facebook that discuss this a lot.
Gary
What type of cloth are you using to apply the poly
An old tee shirt works great.
Thanks Papa. This was very informative. Always good stuff coming form the Papa1947 shop. Thank you for sharing. Have a good day and please continue to stay healthy.
Thank you very much Glen I appreciate your comments.
Take care,
Gary
Because of your video, I decided to try it for two bowls. Did it just as you said and I am having terrible results! Leaving rings that I can’t sand smooth. Tried calling Minwax but they were no help. Can you give me any ideas as to what I could be doing wrong to cause this??
The only thing I could think of is you left it on to thick. I wipe if off till there are no streaks. So it is multiple thin layers.
Yesterday I used it again in a very cold shop. It still dried amazingly fast. And sanded very easily. If you could send a picture of what you are dealing with I may be able to see the issues.
mgdpapa@gmail.com
Watching the show and realizing how nice black locust can look i wish i would have saved some from the firewood pile to turn
Thanks Ken...I am turning another piece today. It was cut down a year and a half ago. It was hard back then and now it is really hard.
Take care,
Gary
Great. Will it be as smooth as a Lacquer gloss finish?
Yes it sure will. I love lacquer but I think this is easier and looks every bit as good.
@@ThePapa1947 Thank you! I am going to try the polycrylic, seems to be less messy to clean as well.
This is awesome because you totally break all of the manufacturer's rules... and it works great!
Thanks for posting this!
Oops I did not know they had any rules. This is a great finish and very easy to apply.
Hey Gary, nice, informative video. How resistant is this finish to things like water rings, alcohol and hot drinks? Could it be used on stuff like platters, coasters and similar?
Thank you Tom...as far as I know it is just like water based poly. Tell you what tomorrow morning I will use this piece to set my hot cup of coffee on and let you know.
Take care,
Gary
Does the shine go away overtime?
No I have piece 2 years old and look the same.
Hi Gary! Great finish as is - but I wonder about some sort of high gloss wax or even microcrystalline wax to try to lesson fingerprints on the finishing paste? I find that the finishing paste tends to be very susceptible to fingerprints even after long term drying. Will the finishing paste eventually get hard enough this does not happen? Thanks Dennis
Thank you Dennis! I generally use a polishing paste that has carnauba was as well for a little extra shine. But that needs to be polished till it is all off or it leaves finger prints. The abrasive paste needs to be polished completely dry as well for the same reason. I have not tried microcrystalline wax...I should check into it.
Take care,
Gary
Hi Gary, That gives a fantastic finish. As Bram said it is expensive here in the UK nearly £30 or $37 for 1/2 pint tin. I'm still looking for a UK alternative. Great tutorial Gary. Take care my friend. Cheers, Huw
Thank you Huw glad you liked it. Compared to other finishes you have how is the price? How much would poly or lacquer cost?
Take care,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 Hi Gary, Friction polish is £16, $20 for 1/2 ltr, Acrylic Spray I can get 400ml can for £5, $6.50 and Howards Feed N Wax for 16oz for £17, $22. I use Howards more than any other as I love the feel it gives a piece of wood and is also food safe. I have had the same bottle (8oz) for nearly a year and still have half left. Cheers, Huw PS Just found some Poly for £12, $16 but postage is another £14, $18 form the US
Very good info Gary, thank you for using our products, its an honor comi g from such a wood expert.....another great use of the abrasive I have found is when I out multipl;e coats of CA on my pens and those high ridges build up, the paste takes them down nicely without sandpaper just like you did on this platter!
Thanks Tom! I really like it on a sprayed lacquer finish as well. What makes for a finish with depth to it is a very level finish. The abrasive paste is a big help in getting there.
Take care,
Gary
Great finish would you suggest the same finishing step for handrail trip and window sill interior trim?
Thank you. Yes the Polycrylic is very durable.
Thanks for watching.
Gary
Я на днях сделал похожую работу и мне так же хотелось бы добиться такого результата но увы пока не вышло .Результат превосходный Гари . Удачи мой Друг
Спасибо, мой друг, за добрые слова и удачи в использовании.
Береги себя,
Gary
Отличный результат!!! Красота. Лайк от друга.
Thank you very much my friend!
Gary
Since both of these products are water based, I was wondering if the first coat of the sealer tends to raise the grain of the wood? Probably a better chance of that on softer woods I'd think. It looks like I'll have to give this stuff a try.
Yes Gil it does raise the grain which I like. It helps to get a better sanding job. I remember is shop class we were taught to wet the wood down and sand again must for that reason.
Take care,
Gary
You didn’t show any of those product so why wouldn’t keep even that video for yourself too
I am sure the thumbnail shows a picture of the can and the word Polycyclic will take you to the product.
Sorry you are having problems finding the product. There are 32,000 others who seemed to find it ok.
I am certain you probably could have found it but just in case I am happy to help: www.minwax.com/en/products/protective-finishes/polycrylic-protective-finish
Thanks for taking your time to let me know
What type of thinner you use?
I have never used thinner but if I did I would probably just use water.
Its expensive here Gary but I do think it would be worth trying some in the future
Cheers and take care Bram
Is there any water based finishes like this made where you are at? That might be worth trying.
This will not replace other finishes I use. As I like shellac fore somethings and wipe on poly and lacquer for other things as well.
Take care,
Gary
Hi mate I will be looking into that and am still trying to get some time to make my own shellac finish.. there is .not enough hours sometimes in my day lol
Bram it seems after I retired they made the days shorter...lol
Great looking finish Gary! I might have to try this out. - Todd
Thank you very much Todd. Looking forward to seeing you use it.
Take care,
Gary
Good video, Gary! I only recently started using the water-based polycrylic, and I love it.
Thank you Rick. I first used the water based poly around 5 years ago and loved it. Not sure when Polycrylic came out but I have used it for around 2 years I think.
I like it so much I have used it on a piece for this Friday that I would normally have used all spray lacquer on. It worked so well on the soccer ball I turned I figured I would go for it.
Thanks for watching.
Gary
excellent video Gary. Thanks for making these.
RP
Thank you RP and you are welcome,
Gary
I have read that sanding sealer should not be used on woods like curly maple because it does not display chatoyance, but your black locust turning shimmers in the light beautifully under this finish. I'm curious whether you've used this technique with curly maple or other figured hardwoods and what was the result?
I have used on many types of wood with excellent results. It has enhanced all the features in the wood. It is a good question and worth watching for.
Check out my most recent black locust turning if you want to see some shimmer.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
I agree sanding sealer enhances figure in wood.
Thanks. One question. How hard wearing is it? if it's so easily sanded how will it stand up to use in a bowl. Will it dissolve from liquids.
It is very durable and keeps it shine. It sands very easy but the way I put it on fine scotch brite will get it ready for another coat.
It will not dessolve in a liquid. But I do not put any liquids in my turnings.
I've learned so much from you but the thing I learned from you I like the most is using my glue gun and melting the glue sticks to hold a faceplate to the base of my turning, turn the project and use denatured alcohol to "dissolve" the glue . I went out and purchased more glue sticks than I'll use the rest of my life. I' about the same age as you. Thank you!
Thanks so much Rusty! As a matter of fact I did a turning today with hot glued tenons on. Only way to get the most out of this board.
I used a hot glued tenon on both sides and you will see why in a few weeks.
So how many glue sticks did you get. I go through them pretty fast.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 I got about 100 glue sticks and I've used half of them. Thanks again!
Gary, when you're using the Minwax Polycrylic or similar water based finishes, you can speed dry them in a couple minutes with a hair dryer....... really speeds up the process.
Hi Peter, I have found the Minwax Polcylic to be a very fast drying product without any help. But I think a small flow of air would probably help. Even in cold weather I find it is ready to sand in as little as 15 minutes. But I put each layer on very thin. I would consider a slow fan without heat if you wanted to speed it up.
Next time I use it I will try a hair dryer and see how it works. Seems like a good idea if time is an issue. I should be using some in a few days so I will make a note to give it a try.
Thanks for watching and your idea.
Gary
@@ThePapa1947Certainly any air flow will speed up drying. I used some a few years back when I first started some turning. I only have a 12 x 17 lathe so I started out turning some pens. Being a fast item to produce I wanted something for fast finishing. I used a few different water based finishes from Varathane as well as General and they all worked really well. Doing a speed dry with a warm hair dryer worked very well. It brought the drying time down to 1 or 2 minutes, which was really good, even if only as a re-coat time.
Just watched your video. It is amazing how much it looks like Saturn, especially with the black dot on the right hand side. Your stuff is brilliant.
Thank you Michael glad you liked it. Yes I suppose it does look like Saturn. It is amazing what can be seen in a piece of wood if you step back and look. It is normally around a foot from me..lol
Take care,
Gary
never heard of polycrylic . looks easy enough looks alot easier then lacquer . i do like a nice deep glass look . now how about yellowing with age does it stay clear .
Thank you dark and I have not seen any issues with yellowing. Most finishes do not yellow anymore.
Take care,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 thanks gary i know polyurethane still yellows i love the finish it gives till it yellows . thanks again gary your the man .
I have only seen the oil based poly give it a yellow tint. Which I like for somethings.
I made our son a tall skinny table 5 years ago and used water based poly and it has not yellowed. Who knows maybe certain light might cause it.
Gary The name polycrylic does not seem to carry across the pond I can purchase it from the states and then pay a ridiculous delivery fee was wondering if its similar to a water based varnish
Hi Steven...yes that is all it really is water based polyurethane. I have used both and it seems the same to me.
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 Thanks very much I have never tried to build a finish up with varnish another thing to add to my never ending list of things to try
I’ve used polycrylic for a while now. Gives a very hard and durable finish.
Yes it is amazing how well it works. First time I used it was on some English Walnut where the sap wood is almost white. Once I did that I found it worked great for softer woods such as drift wood. It worked better than anything else I tried. So now I use it for lots of things. In a few weeks I use it on something I really debated using it. As it turns out it was a good choice as well.
Take care,
Gary
Will this finish be good for a Charcuterie board ?
What did you use to seal?
I used Minwax water based sanding sealer. Thanks for watching.
Gary
Interesting article, I'll try it out for sure. Nevertheless, the question for you: with which finish do you achieve the highest shine according to your long experience? Thanks from Austria. Gerhard.
Thanks Gerhard! Well I can get pretty equal shine using lacquer and the Polycrylic. Also oil based wipe on poly works good as well. But it adds a slight tint to the wood. So it kind of depends on the piece. In a week I have a video where I used the Polycrylic and got an amazing finish on it.
So for easy of use I would say the Polycrylic is a great choice. Easy to put on and sands better than lacquer which sands pretty good.
@@ThePapa1947 Thank you again. Now I also think that Polycrylic is a very good and convenient choice. Unfortunately, it is practically impossible to get in Europe. After all, I was able to order 2 cans after a detour. Greetings from Austria.
Thank you for this video I am a beginner woodworker it was very informative and great tips 😁
Thank you Billy I am glad it was of some help. I really is a nice product to use.
Take care,
Gary
hey chief could you tell me which grit of sandpaper you use?
Sure thing chief. I use from 80-400 grit.
Gary you hav helped me a lot with your videos about finishing. I’ve learned a lot and I appreciate you offering your knowledge and experience. Thanks a lot!
Thanks buddy happy it helped.
Take care,
Gary
Looks great great demo
Thank Chris and thanks for watching.
Gary
Thanks for sharing Gary 🤝 Great looking finish and that abrasive paste made it look even better.
Thank you for watching Kimsey! I have gotten to the same finish as the paste but it takes using 1200 grit sandpaper.
Gary
Thanks for the video. Great finish. Really appreciate it.
Thank you for watching Suzette I am happy you liked it.
Gary
Thank you for your video, it's very helpful...👍👍👍
Glad it was helpful Gao and thanks for watching.
Gary
I have that already n I like it a lot.ty
Thank you...so you know for sure how well it works.
Take care and thanks for watching.
Gary
I am definitely going to try this! Just in wax sanding sealer for wood.
Minn wax
Thank you Billy you will like it.
Gary
Sorry I meant Jupiter. Keep up the good work.
Yes for sure it looks like Jupiter!
Awesome tip, always great to learn new ways of doing things...
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching.
Gary
Thanks for giving us another option on finishing! It’s easy to get stuck using the same old one time after time, change is good!
Thank you James I am sure if you try it you will really like it. But I have many favorite types of finishes. All depends on the piece of wood.
Take care,
Gary
Will sanding sealer make tool marks/lines disappear? My sheer cut game needs work...🙄
And they don’t make enough sand paper to fix my pieces. 🤣
No but a negative rake scraper does wonders.
HI Gary that Is a super finish.
Thank you so much Manjit.
Take care my friend,
Gary
*dancing to the beat of the wood spinning sound*
Thanks for watching!
Great video and tip Gary, safe days, John
Thanks John!
Take care
Gary
Do you apply this to bare wood Gary? As opposed to over sanding sealer etc. Thanks
Hi Jim, I think I have once and it works fine. I really like to use the sealer on a soft or open grain wood. it seems to soak in and helps the Polycrylic to build up nicely. So bottom line is I think it would work fine if you wanted to just go with it.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Thanks Gary. Bought a quart today after watching your vid.
Jim you will find it dries fast and sands very easily.
You have definitely made the big time with the folks from Acks. Got mine today and they included a little flyer with directions to your TH-cam channel. Congrats Gary!
Very nice. I,m pretty new to all this, I used wipe on poly, brush on polyurethane, and other finishes, lately I tried spray on enamel. What's your thoughts on that. And thanks for all your awesome videos
Thank you Bob. I like wipe on poly a lot. Brush on it ok but I find it goes bad pretty fast once it is opened. And it takes longer to dry than the wipe on version.
If you are talking about clear enamel spray I have used it but prefer spray on lacquer.
Then the Polycrylic is a wonderful finish. Goes on easy and dries fast. I tend to wipe it on as well
Hope that answers your questions but if not feel free to ask away.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Thank you, I just used polycyclic. Love it. Thank you. Did I say you us ed ace abrasive past or polish for final finish
Never mind, I see you used ace abrasive paste, not polish. Thank you. Have a wonderful day
@@bobhoffman8717 I use both of the Acks products together. This will give you a great shine.
Cool result , take care.
Thanks, will do!
HOWDY Gary, it's good to see someone is trying to educate people who are interested in learning about your work. Sometimes this is what we need to see someone who knows what to do actually putting words into action. Have a wonderful week and stay frosty and safe.
Thank you Richard I appreciate your comments.
It has been hot around here so frosty is what we will try and be.
At least we have some nice shade trees in the yard.
Take care,
Gary
wow awesome i like it
Thank you Tasha I am happy you liked it.
Take care,
Gary
Great video 👍
Thank you Sean, happy you liked it.
Gary
Great! I do the same! Thanks!!
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Gary
Yep. That's class!
Thank you Stuart,
Gary
Great looking finish! Well explained. I've never tried this finish but will in the future. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful! I am sure you will like it Ray.
Take care,
Gary
Great finish. Will try it.
Thank you Dean I am sure you will like it. Makes things pretty easy.
Gary
Thanks for this vid Gary, will come in handy since I being told this is a great product for firming up spalted wood 🙏 Now all I have to do is remember it next time I do a spalted wood turn👴 I've used the clear and tinted ones on flat work and can get good, reliable results so this using it should not be a problem as a foundation (sealer) or as a final topcoat. Stay safe. -Mike😷
Yes it works good on driftwood. That is spalted on steriods. It works great for a base and just as good for the final finish.
Take care,
Gary
even though i wipe off the extra i still get lines from wiping
What do you use for a rag?
Also try circular motions.
Could be you are putting on too much.
@@ThePapa1947 i use a lint free cotton that u buy in bags. Trying it again this morning. Now i am putting it on then wipping with dry spot on rag to not leave streaks seams to be working but i sanded to far through sealer and have an uneven finish. Finishing is my worst nightmare.
@@ThePapa1947 what kind of rag do u recommend?
@@tonypayette87 yes a soft lint free piece of pure cotton.
Tanks for the video PAPA, lovely finish.
Thank you Jim I am happy you liked it.
Take care,
Gary
Thanks...
Thank you, happy you liked it.
Gary
Nice
Thank you very much!
I like the sound the machine makes at 3:20
Only sound I hear is the chuck jaws clicking.
Very nice Gary! I will definitely try that.
For sure it is worth trying Gil and thanks for watching.
Gary
Thanks Gary, good video.
Very welcome and thanks for watching George!
Nice
Thank you very much. I am using it right now on a piece on my lathe. It will be out this coming Friday.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
You bet, bud. I'm digging the videos
Great video. Thanks 👍
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching Sony!
Gary
Beautiful chatoyancy.
Thank you very much Khan!
Take care,
Gary