@@tony359 You will get 10k, I will be more realistic. After 10k, you will raise only slowly. Retro hardware channels, don't have such base to get subscribers from, than cancerous videos. Like asmr, pet desperate videos, or tictoc omelge stuff. :)
@@warrax111 ahah yes I’m very much aware that I could do more by filming a PS5 being thrown down a stairwell! To be honest as long as it’s not 2 views a day it’s ok! 🙂
TH-cam put your previous video into my suggestions. It's done that with multiple vintage computing/electronics repair channels. Some I like, some I don't. You're great. Professional with good explanations of your thought process. It's entertaining watching you work your skill. I was an instant subscribe (well, like 10 minutes into the video)! I look forward to seeing the future and this channel grow!
I highly recommend using a much thicker tip, you don't need to be able to solder individual pins, surface tension and flux are going to take care of ensuring that no brigdes form. It's much faster to just drag a solder ball across all of the pins. Louis Rossmann has a video on his channel on that subject called the red pill of board repair.
Thank you! I still might need to use the smaller tip every now and then and I’d like to learn more on the subject. I shall check Louis’s video in the meantime! Thanks for watching!
I find your Chanel on Adrian Black’s basement Chanel ..I look all your videos for 3 month & your works is the best on computer’s stuff …I like that …cheers 😊 (y)
you rock, love your channel.. wanna try repair own motherboards, so this is just up my alley ;) hope to see a lot of videos from you, thanks for doing them
Congratulations on your recent growth! Really love the video and looking forward to watching some more. I have an old 430FX based board that uses SRAM cache modules but also has solder pads for pipeline burst cache (and a jumper to switch between the two types). I hope to remove a pair of chips from a dead board I have and solder it on. Just need to find the time. Subscribed! 👍
I subscribed your channel because i like the way you explain things so that hobby-tinkerers like i am can understand it. I would have given up the board very early in your process but you did not. There were many very useful hints for my projects in your videos, thank you very much.
The inductor mainly stores energy and it is important to use the correct value. It still works because the pwm controller compensates for reduced inductance by driving the switch harder. You can reshape and glue the core back into a toroid, it'll make it better.
I think the switch is operating at a high duty cycle now and this is likely why the previous one failed. But if you increase the inductance close to nominal, the transistor's life expectancy will increase. You could visualise this with an oscilloscope, before and after the core repair. Hope you've got enough material for an extra episode on the motherboard :)
@@duke_of_oz the 3.3V line does not seem to be switching - it’s just a voltage regulator via a transistor, am I correct? The switching ‘core’ line is on the CPU and that has an intact inductor. Am I seeing this correctly?
@@tony359The simplest buck converter topology would have the storage inductor downstream of the switch. The 3.3V rail would be switched but all you see on oscilloscope is DC with a minor riple due to the filter cap. If the damaged inductor is upstream of the switch then it could be just a filter choke.
If this was a linear regulator, the transistor would be placed on a heatsink as it would need to dissipate a few watts of heat. If there's a fast diode nearby then it is definitely a buck converter. Also, on the storage inductor's pin coming from the transistor, you should see pulses of about 66.6% duty cycle (but not on the 3.3V side like I said).
I had been starting with an Amstrad PC 1640 in 1987 with an EGA Screen (which still works - by the way) and I´was always interested in these old systems and built up some 100 systems since then. So thumbs up for Your channel, it´s always a pleasure to watch Your work.
Glad to see you are getting some attention, the way YT algorithm work is a real mystery. I think the first video I watched on your channel was about the M921 486 motherboard, but this damn thing just don't recommend I watch the videos from subscribed channels before new stuff from someone else. That interposer thing is super cool, I will share it with my retro obsessed fellows on Twitter!
@@tony359 yep is pretty cool, I was asking a few days ago if anyone have ever seen a project similar to this one for socket 3, to be able to run DX4, Cyrix and AMx86 on old motherboards that only accept 5V like on the iDX2-66/AMD DX2-80 and apparently is next to impossible to find such a thing. Maybe Sphere478 is working on something.
@@RetroTinkerer ah, interesting. I did have a motherboard I had to modify to accept 3.3V but it was already designed for that, just the regulator was missing. Did you take a look at Sphere's project page? I am not hugely familiar with all his projects, maybe he's done something already? :)
I *think* this is the first time one of your videos has showed up on my autoplay list, but from what I can see so far the channel seems like a good fit alongside Adrian's Digital Basement and Tech Tangents. Picked up a new sub from me for that reason. Speaking of the latter, given the current growth and the fact your videos are being recommended to others, *now* is probably the best time if you were thinking about a channel name change. Unless I imagined it, I think I heard "Tony's Tinkering" earlier in the vid; has a ring to it!
Thank you! Yours is not a bad idea. Yes, the official name is ‘Tony’s tinkering shop’ (should be in the title at the beginning) bit never change the channel name as I’m not 100% sure and you can only do that once. Maybe I should do a poll? Thanks for the pointers, for watching and subscribing!
@@tony359 Channel name can be changed whenever you want (I believe there's a soft cap of 3 times every 90 days), but your *username* only gets one change, so no need to panic about that! A poll sounds like a good idea though for sure; involving viewers in the fine details of the channel (while maintaining your own overall direction) is usually a good approach with regards to retention, which in turn affects growth. YT seems to give people small bursts of promotion and based on retention automatically calculates whether or not to keep promoting videos from that channel. The fact you've gained another 1K subs over the past 4 days indicates heavily that the content is definitely well-received, just need to follow it up with more good videos 🙂 I'll be watching with great interest!
Congratulations from me as well. I found your channel just by browsing the youtube and i find it quite interesting the way you insist on finding the faults. Granted, you do not seam to be very well versed on general electronics, but you do have quite a bit of knowledge about motherboards and probably computers in general, thus compensating very well on any lapses on other stuff. I do believe that you deserve much more than 4000 susbcribers, so good luck!
You just got the attention you deserve from the TH-cam algorithms. Your videos are all awesome, they just didn't get offered to enough people, or the right people.
Tony I had the same issue with that fine hakko tip. I resorted to trying a knife shaped tip, flooding the chip with flux, and drag soldering. In the end im glad because it was much faster than trying to solder each pin individually with that tiny tip.
Drag soldering is definitely better but this time I decided to take my time and do one by one. Good to hear you had the same issue, I have a feeling it’s only for very light work. Thanks for watching!
10:08 I've had the same issue with the tiny soldering tips, even on an 80W Metcal, or other temperature-controlled stations. One of the *best* things I ever bought (about a year ago) is a "hoof" tip for the Metcal. It has a small divot in the tip, to retain a bit more solder. It's like a dream for drag-soldering QFPs etc. The only slight downside is the tip is a bit large when you have components very close to the pins, like the SMD resistor in the vid. But the hoof tip lets you reflow a whole side of pins in a few seconds, and gives very nice-looking joints. It tends to heat the pins a bit better, too. I still use a 1.78mm wide chisel tip for most things, but honestly, give a hoof tip a try. You'll never want to be without one. ;)
There's a video by John Gammel which shows great use of the Hoof tip. /watch?v=5uiroWBkdFY The part around 1 minute 30, is how I solder most QFP / TQFP stuff now, but I think the use of solder paste in manual soldering isn't super necessary.
Thank you! I think it’s the one Louis Rossman shows on his channel - he did explain the concave section of it. Looks like small tips are useless then, good to know it’s not me then 😂 thanks for watching!
11:57 LOL We've all done things like that, and worse, I'm sure. At least I hope I'm not the only one to accidentally put 12 Volts into a 5V retro computer, or somehow manage to install a DIMM in backwards. The best part is you actually managed to get some of the LEDs on the cart lighting up. lol
18:33 - The inductor's main function in a buck regulator is to resist that instantaneous *change* in current when the input voltage is applied, so it basically slows the rate that the output voltage ramps up. Otherwise, you would see the 12V (or whatever the input voltage is) on the output side of the inductor right away, which obviously isn't good. (due to the inductance resisting the change in current, there will actually be a voltage drop *across* the inductor at the start of the cycle, which is how it can have a lower voltage on the output.) This generally needs to work in conjunction with the capacitors as well, to help smooth the ripple on the (lower) voltage output. (it forms an LC filter). The slowing of the change in current gives the buck reg time to sense (via feedback) when the output voltage rises to the desired voltage, so it will switch off the current again, until the output voltage drops below a cetain point, then it switches on the current again, and so-on. ;) The output ripple is related to the inductance, the output capacitance, the load current, inductor losses, the switching frequency, and lots of other params I don't fully understand. lol
Just continue good work and the channel will rocket :) BTW keep these soldering and cleaning B-rolls as long as they are, many channels make it too long, what is just boring for many viewers.
I’m glad you like my editing - yes I agree that there’s really not much point in showing the whole process unless there’s something to show! Thanks a lot!
I have a Hakko FX-888D, which is a modern version of that same basic "system" of irons and tips that Hakko has had since the 1990s or whenever. I'm guessing your station is a clone of that same system and probably uses the same tips. Hakko doesn't make a "hoof" tip but a 3rd party company "Plato" does. The hoof tips I have are Plato HS0530 and HS0531 - they would probably fit your iron. I've hardly used them so I don't have much of an opinion about them. The couple times I did some TSOP soldering I found I was happy with a flat chisel tip, but I have very little experience with that type of soldering. Back when I bought the FX-888D I felt like I was spending a lot on a soldering station. But now my perspective has changed, and I wish I had spent more on the FX-951, which is a cartridge system. I think the "888" system is great for 2 layer boards and lead based solder, but when working with multilayer motherboards and video cards, especially the later stuff with lead-free solder, I think the performance of the iron gets to be a problem.
Yes mine should be a clone of the 888D indeed. And I am also thinking of moving to a cartridge one. I've had very bad luck with non-hakko tips. The ones which came with the station from Aoyue are useless. I'll be looking into a cartridge one - not sure which one, too many options! Thanks for watching!
A lot of the problem with soldering iron tips is either a oxidation on the end or at the connection to the rest of the iron immediately after solder connection is done. Clean tip with a damp sponge or a ball of steel like hakko kits come with. When you use iron next time it should be a clean tip looking like a good tin job. No black or pitting e.t.c. A clean tip makes a world of difference absolutely night and day!
Thank you! I always clean the tip on a wet sponge and I have the steel mesh as well. Something I learnt many years ago after years of solder incineration 😂 thanks for watching!
That would be super! The wire is 1mm, I’ll have to confirm the diameters but what you see in the video should be pretty accurate. I’ll let you know when I have a minute. Thanks for watching and for your help!
@@tony359 Looks like you have a smaller T50-6 (13mm OD) core, it is one less turn on a T68-6 (17.5mm OD) core for a value of about .8 uH. I don't think anything is really critical as you mentioned, it is simply a choke on the incoming power rail.
@@JonathanBastienFiliatrault thanks for looking into that for me I appreciate that. I might sound silly but I’d like to know: 0.8uH as in micro Henry? I thought the inductor came up as 80micro Henry? Am I mixing up the unit or measure? Thank you!
Hakko is more like a hobby tool. From my point of view a only heavy duty soldering station can handle such a small tip and provide enough power to recover from thermal losses of the tip. I tried some “chinese clones” like 10-15 years ago which were complete garbage, then i got myself an weller wsp80(if i’m not mistaken) which was a huge step forward. With original tips worked like a charm. Then I couldn’t find those small tips anymore, and of course i wanted some other tip shapes which they don’t provide, so i switched to jbc with an t245 handle+cartridges which are awesome. Plus the variety of tip shapes is outrageous:) keep up the good work!
Leave the inductor. It's fine. Looks like the coil spacing should be more uniform... but even that I would leave well enough alone. If it were a precision piece of test gear and I couldn't get a calibration... Then I might investigate it. But for your system leave it be.
Why not try winding your own inductor? You can often find those cores in computer power supplies, so you might be able to find an equivalent one in a dead power supply. If the number of turns are different, unwind the good core and re-wind it to match what you need. It's pretty much the same as winding a balun for ham radio antennas. Note that turns are counted on the inner diameter.
That’s a good idea. The thing is that I need 1mm enamelled wire and the core. By the time I buy them I can buy a finished inductor 🙂 But I’ll be definitely keep an eye for some spares from an old board as you suggest! Thanks for watching!
Louis Rossmann has a nice video (posted on his second channel...) about soldering iron tips for reworking. Conical tips are indeed so bad they would lead someone to believe they suck at soldering. You probably ruined the tip after cranking up the temperature, something I've done several times to several tips until learning my lesson (don't ever go above 400 celsius!). Hope that helps.
I think I only went up to 420. I shall check his video thanks! But I feel I might need a better soldering station. This was mediocre 10 years ago 🙂 thanks for watching and for the advice!
@tony359 No way is that an 80uH inductor!!! No freaking way! That is an iron powder core, and every different color means different permeability, thus different inductance for the same number of turns and same dimensions of the core. The white side on yellow background means it is a -26 mix core, that is the most used variant of iron powder cores in switching PSU's. The next thing you need to do is measure the exact dimensions on that core ( outer and inner diameter and hight ), that will be needed to find out the exact permeability of that core, and from that you can calculate the inductance ( N^2*(nH/N2), meaning you square the number of turns then you multiply the result by the permeability number of that core. That core you are holding probably is something like T60-26 or thereabouts, which has a permeability of 50nH/N2, and with 14 turns ( NOT 13,5, there is no partial turn in windings! There are 14 turns inside the ring, that is what matters, despite the fact that only 13 can be numbered on the outside, the last one will be closed up by the load, so you have 14 turns! ), 14*14=196, then 196* 0.00000005, that will give you 10uH of inductance, which seams about right. PS: You really should read more on general electronics, at least power supply stuff, it will help you perform much more interesting videos, because as it is, your lapses in this hold you back! Hope this link will work, is it a datasheet of iron powder cores, different colors, different sizes and specific data on each of them! www.mediafire.com/file/smcc7drc6nwbxdp/Toruri_cu_pulbere_de_fier2%25282%2529.pdf/file
@tony359 i'm glad to see you read my comment, hope it will help you both here and in the future. I do have something else to add though, this type of core has what it is said as a distributed air gap, which basically means it has tiny holes distributed inside it to achieve the desired permeability. Now, a broken core will have less permeability ( much less in your case with the core broken in 4 pieces ), and less permeability means less inductance ( again, much, much less in your case with 4 pieces of a broken core ). You never want to let a circuit work with less inductance then designed. I cannot be sure because of the lack of a schematic in your case, so i can only assume 2 cases: 1. If it is just a part of a simple LC filter then less inductance will not be such a problem, it just means the corner frequency of that filter is higher, so higher frequency stuff will get past it, but that should not ruin your day ( depending on the exact case ). 2. If that inductance is part of the voltage feedback loop of a buck converter then you most definitely DO NOT want to let it work as it is, it's inductance would be way, way lower than designed, and that will increase by quite allot the current ripple on that converter ( with very bad effects on the filter caps ), and also will modify too much the transfer function on the bode plot of that feedback loop, meaning it could go unstable in some conditions ( it could oscillate, which is a very bad thing for any converter and for any load ). Just to be sure i would recommend to change that inductance, be sure to measure it's dimensions and search the datasheet i have provided, to find it and know it's permeability, then you can calculate the inductance needed, and buy it being sure it is the right one ( in the second case above a much larger inductance is just as bad as a smaller one ). And also be sure to never buy a lower rated current than what it is needed, because if you stress that inductance at a higher current that it rating you risk saturation, and that is very BAD!!! Saturations means way, way lower permeability then normal ( it would be just as if the core isn't even there in the first place ). Even approaching saturation is very bad because you reach the point where permeability starts to drop quite fast, the inductance will change with the current by too much, and you do not want that. If you cannot measure the maximum current needed from that regulator then try to estimate it, and be sure to choose an inductance with a higher current rating.
@@DjMarik78 I was about to rely then I got busy with work 🙂 I might have edited out the part where I say ‘you know I’m DIY when it comes to electronics’ 🙂 I know I’m always learning, I love electronics but I’m a self-taught student. I’m getting there 🙂 I always appreciate constructive input as you did of course. That’s how you learn. My videos are a hobby. I repair for fun. This is what I can do. One day I might end up making Adrian’s digital basement’s style of videos. For now, I hope you enjoy my clumsy electronic skills and seeing me plugging a diagnostic board the wrong way round 🙂 Thanks again for watching and commenting! Great info about the inductor.
@@tony359 i did not meant it as an insult, it was just a conclusion after watching 3 of your videos. Still i assure you i do enjoy your content, you do know allot of digital electronics and computer stuff, so that os what makes your repair videos worth watching! So keep up the good work, i will continue to watch it and give any input i can. PS: Thanks for the reply :)
@@tony359 I tried it on something that looked similar, ie, 10 turns, 1mm wire, 20mm dia, and it was 0.3 ohm 1.9mH. Maybe try the TT on a high value inductor to see if it actually has that feature. PS: what battery voltage does it display at the start, ie, it may be low.
How You cleanup Your boards after soldering. I am using IPA and toothbrush and after cleaning my boards are still "sticky", feel like there is some sticky residue when I touch the board with finger. Not kind of result that I was expected.
Are you using ‘no clean’ flux? But even with the amtech the board stays a bit sticky indeed. If you really want to wash it I recommend the SWAJ from electrolube. But it’s not cheap so if you don’t plan of re-using it for many plans… Thanks for watching!
I try to explain what I do and why in my videos, If you have a more precise question, I'd be happy to help but what you are asking me is too general. Thanks for watching!
I’m indeed thinking of an upgrade. I need to search around. I’m sure JBC are great but wondering if there’s a cheaper alternative of similar quality? Thanks for watching.
Q11 is the 3.3V transistor. You mean to check the input? Well it’s coming straight from the 5V so I can check but not really expecting to see anything there - even after removing (and jumping) the inductor. Would you agree? Thanks for watching.
I've got an Asus P5A SS7 board that's stable with slower CPU's like Pentium MMX 233, even OC to 100x3, but unstable with faster AMD K6-2 450/550. I've re-capped the whole board and done a lot of testing but I cannot confirm a fault. Wanna fix it for me, lol! My best guess is voltage regulation, although it looks correct on a multimeter. Should I source replacement voltage regulators to see what happens?
Supply is always number one thing to check but when frequencies go up like that it could be anything. If you have an oscilloscope check that the voltages are clean - a multimeter will give you a partial view. I’m not familiar with the K6-2 but because the P233 over locked is stable I wonder if the supply has no issues with the current required. Worth trying a different power supply and RAM as well? And I’m sure you checked the bios too. Was the board unstable before you re-capped it?
@@tony359 No, the core pieces just need to be as close together as possible. Essentially what you have here is inductor with gigantic air gap in its core. When you glue it back together it wont be perfect but several magnitudes better. And since it works with the gap I would call superglue adequete fix.
@@Kizmox I’ll give it a go! I’d be curious to test it, my signal generator can do 1Mhz, that should give an idea of the efficiency before and after? Switching is usually 100khz I think. Thank you!
I believe that the broken choke is much less than 100uH. 1. Usually the tester you used is able to correctly identify and measure that value. 2. The usual values for the choke in that circuit is few uH. 3. What are the voltages on that and the other choke when operating (Core and I/O)?
Don't expect that tester measure in the μH range. It takes a good LCR meter for that. That broken inductor looks like a part of an output CLC smoothing filter. In such a case its exact value isn't critical and you can use a 100μH replacement all the same.
Thanks. I've had a few different comments on that meter and that inductor but I believe we all agree that it's not a critical one and can be glued or replaced with another one without having to worry too much about its value - clearly without deviating wildly! Thanks for watching!
That interposer project is really cool. I've been toying with the idea of making an interposer that breaks the all pins out into a little header board so I can conveniently probe each pin with my oscilloscope while the processor is running various tasks. Currently testing on a socket 7 mobo because some of the pentium mmx have those convenient read points on them but I don't see why you couldn't do the same with any PGA processor. I just want to see what the chip is doing in real-time. Not for any real purpose lol.
I am simple man, I see content I like, I subscribe.
Amazing! Thanks!
It´s because of the quality of the content and the way you solve the problems! Congrats and soon you will reach millions of subscribers (I hope so)!
Thank you! I wish I could get a million subs but probably not fixing socket 7 motherboards 😂 thanks for watching!
@@tony359 You will get 10k, I will be more realistic. After 10k, you will raise only slowly.
Retro hardware channels, don't have such base to get subscribers from, than cancerous videos. Like asmr, pet desperate videos, or tictoc omelge stuff. :)
@@warrax111 ahah yes I’m very much aware that I could do more by filming a PS5 being thrown down a stairwell! To be honest as long as it’s not 2 views a day it’s ok! 🙂
TH-cam put your previous video into my suggestions. It's done that with multiple vintage computing/electronics repair channels. Some I like, some I don't. You're great. Professional with good explanations of your thought process. It's entertaining watching you work your skill. I was an instant subscribe (well, like 10 minutes into the video)! I look forward to seeing the future and this channel grow!
Thank you Eric for your kind words!
I highly recommend using a much thicker tip, you don't need to be able to solder individual pins, surface tension and flux are going to take care of ensuring that no brigdes form. It's much faster to just drag a solder ball across all of the pins. Louis Rossmann has a video on his channel on that subject called the red pill of board repair.
Thank you! I still might need to use the smaller tip every now and then and I’d like to learn more on the subject. I shall check Louis’s video in the meantime! Thanks for watching!
@Mr Guru I always make my own mind by testing myself of course! Thanks for mentioning!
I find your Chanel on Adrian Black’s basement Chanel ..I look all your videos for 3 month & your works is the best on computer’s stuff …I like that …cheers 😊 (y)
Thank you so much, it’s so nice to read such comments! Thanks for following my channel!
@@tony359 my please tony…. I fix many machines computer for 45 years but I like your video learn more …!
you rock, love your channel.. wanna try repair own motherboards, so this is just up my alley ;) hope to see a lot of videos from you, thanks for doing them
Thanks for watching and wish you lots of posting mobo’s!
Congratulations on your recent growth! Really love the video and looking forward to watching some more. I have an old 430FX based board that uses SRAM cache modules but also has solder pads for pipeline burst cache (and a jumper to switch between the two types). I hope to remove a pair of chips from a dead board I have and solder it on. Just need to find the time. Subscribed! 👍
Thank you! Looking forward to the video then!
Awesome, I love that you made it work! Congratulations on the growth of the channel, very well deserved!
Thank you!
Good to see the board working properly again!
Hi Tony, Nice and great content as job as well. Mistake can happen. Nice to see the board working. Greetings from Steven from the Netherlands
I had to watch the video again to remember which of the many mistakes I did was in that video :) Thank you!
I subscribed your channel because i like the way you explain things so that hobby-tinkerers like i am can understand it. I would have given up the board very early in your process but you did not. There were many very useful hints for my projects in your videos, thank you very much.
Thank you for your nice words! Glad to hear my persistence is appreciated! Thanks for watching
TH-cam shown your's last video in my recommend list. This is what happened.
You deserve it! Video, content and editing is very good and the most important thing, your knowledge you share with us is amazing!
Thank you a lot!
The inductor mainly stores energy and it is important to use the correct value. It still works because the pwm controller compensates for reduced inductance by driving the switch harder. You can reshape and glue the core back into a toroid, it'll make it better.
Thank you!
I think the switch is operating at a high duty cycle now and this is likely why the previous one failed. But if you increase the inductance close to nominal, the transistor's life expectancy will increase. You could visualise this with an oscilloscope, before and after the core repair. Hope you've got enough material for an extra episode on the motherboard :)
@@duke_of_oz the 3.3V line does not seem to be switching - it’s just a voltage regulator via a transistor, am I correct? The switching ‘core’ line is on the CPU and that has an intact inductor. Am I seeing this correctly?
@@tony359The simplest buck converter topology would have the storage inductor downstream of the switch. The 3.3V rail would be switched but all you see on oscilloscope is DC with a minor riple due to the filter cap. If the damaged inductor is upstream of the switch then it could be just a filter choke.
If this was a linear regulator, the transistor would be placed on a heatsink as it would need to dissipate a few watts of heat. If there's a fast diode nearby then it is definitely a buck converter. Also, on the storage inductor's pin coming from the transistor, you should see pulses of about 66.6% duty cycle (but not on the 3.3V side like I said).
I think you got all the subscribers cause we all love old motherboards and you good at fixing them.
Thank you!
I had been starting with an Amstrad PC 1640 in 1987 with an EGA Screen (which still works - by the way) and I´was always interested in these old systems and built up some 100 systems since then. So thumbs up for Your channel, it´s always a pleasure to watch Your work.
Amazing! My first PC was a 386 but I used IBM PS/2 8086 at school 🙂 thank you for your kind words!
I've only just found your channel and I'm so glad that I did!
Welcome, I'm glad you are enjoying my videos! :)
Glad to see you are getting some attention, the way YT algorithm work is a real mystery.
I think the first video I watched on your channel was about the M921 486 motherboard, but this damn thing just don't recommend I watch the videos from subscribed channels before new stuff from someone else.
That interposer thing is super cool, I will share it with my retro obsessed fellows on Twitter!
Thank you! Sphere does deserve that indeed! Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 yep is pretty cool, I was asking a few days ago if anyone have ever seen a project similar to this one for socket 3, to be able to run DX4, Cyrix and AMx86 on old motherboards that only accept 5V like on the iDX2-66/AMD DX2-80 and apparently is next to impossible to find such a thing.
Maybe Sphere478 is working on something.
@@RetroTinkerer ah, interesting. I did have a motherboard I had to modify to accept 3.3V but it was already designed for that, just the regulator was missing. Did you take a look at Sphere's project page? I am not hugely familiar with all his projects, maybe he's done something already? :)
I love yours videos .Congratulations and continue with wondeful job.Hugs from Brazil.
Muito obrigado! Thanks for watching! Hugs from the UK!
I *think* this is the first time one of your videos has showed up on my autoplay list, but from what I can see so far the channel seems like a good fit alongside Adrian's Digital Basement and Tech Tangents. Picked up a new sub from me for that reason.
Speaking of the latter, given the current growth and the fact your videos are being recommended to others, *now* is probably the best time if you were thinking about a channel name change. Unless I imagined it, I think I heard "Tony's Tinkering" earlier in the vid; has a ring to it!
Thank you! Yours is not a bad idea. Yes, the official name is ‘Tony’s tinkering shop’ (should be in the title at the beginning) bit never change the channel name as I’m not 100% sure and you can only do that once. Maybe I should do a poll? Thanks for the pointers, for watching and subscribing!
@@tony359 Channel name can be changed whenever you want (I believe there's a soft cap of 3 times every 90 days), but your *username* only gets one change, so no need to panic about that! A poll sounds like a good idea though for sure; involving viewers in the fine details of the channel (while maintaining your own overall direction) is usually a good approach with regards to retention, which in turn affects growth. YT seems to give people small bursts of promotion and based on retention automatically calculates whether or not to keep promoting videos from that channel.
The fact you've gained another 1K subs over the past 4 days indicates heavily that the content is definitely well-received, just need to follow it up with more good videos 🙂 I'll be watching with great interest!
@@michaeldcullen poll is on 🙂 thanks for that. Yes I’m impressed by the numbers I see! I do feel the pressure though 😂
Nice! Can be a long road but good to see it finished off!
Absolutely! Thanks for watching!
Great job Tony and congrats on all the subs! 🥳🎉
Thank you for always being here!
@@tony359 No problem, remember me when you're sitting by the pool in your TH-cam mansion! 🤣
@@ted-b ahahah of course!
Poor Tony... 2k subscribers tsss tsss :-) Already 10x that and soon 1 million
Keep up your awesome work !
ahah yes, it feels a bit unreal :)
Thank you!
Congratulations from me as well.
I found your channel just by browsing the youtube and i find it quite interesting the way you insist on finding the faults.
Granted, you do not seam to be very well versed on general electronics, but you do have quite a bit of knowledge about motherboards and probably computers in general, thus compensating very well on any lapses on other stuff.
I do believe that you deserve much more than 4000 susbcribers, so good luck!
Thanks for the explanation of how lower voltages are produced - I didn't know this and was well explained.
Thank you! I hope my explanation was technically correct! Thanks for watching!
You just got the attention you deserve from the TH-cam algorithms. Your videos are all awesome, they just didn't get offered to enough people, or the right people.
Thank you!
Tony I had the same issue with that fine hakko tip. I resorted to trying a knife shaped tip, flooding the chip with flux, and drag soldering. In the end im glad because it was much faster than trying to solder each pin individually with that tiny tip.
Drag soldering is definitely better but this time I decided to take my time and do one by one. Good to hear you had the same issue, I have a feeling it’s only for very light work. Thanks for watching!
Nice PCISA diagnostic card.
Yes I love it and it’s inexpensive! Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for sharing tour knowledge
It's a pleasure, thanks for watching!
Nice video again Tony. All hail the algorithm!
Ahah I think someone should make a video called ‘if TH-cam algorithm was a guy’ (search for ‘if Google was a guy’ video) 😂 - thank you!
Congrats on your channel
Thank you!
Your explanations seem to imply you don't have a background in EE. It is very impressive you can fix stuff without having that.
If EE is electronics, I don’t. I always loved it since I was a kid, though, disassembling toys to see how they were made inside 🙂
Thanks for watching!
You deserve it. Great content 🎃. Thank you
Thank you!
10:08 I've had the same issue with the tiny soldering tips, even on an 80W Metcal, or other temperature-controlled stations.
One of the *best* things I ever bought (about a year ago) is a "hoof" tip for the Metcal.
It has a small divot in the tip, to retain a bit more solder. It's like a dream for drag-soldering QFPs etc.
The only slight downside is the tip is a bit large when you have components very close to the pins, like the SMD resistor in the vid. But the hoof tip lets you reflow a whole side of pins in a few seconds, and gives very nice-looking joints. It tends to heat the pins a bit better, too.
I still use a 1.78mm wide chisel tip for most things, but honestly, give a hoof tip a try. You'll never want to be without one. ;)
Congrats on the subs, btw. It's already a great channel.
There's a video by John Gammel which shows great use of the Hoof tip.
/watch?v=5uiroWBkdFY
The part around 1 minute 30, is how I solder most QFP / TQFP stuff now, but I think the use of solder paste in manual soldering isn't super necessary.
Thank you! I think it’s the one Louis Rossman shows on his channel - he did explain the concave section of it. Looks like small tips are useless then, good to know it’s not me then 😂 thanks for watching!
11:57 LOL
We've all done things like that, and worse, I'm sure.
At least I hope I'm not the only one to accidentally put 12 Volts into a 5V retro computer, or somehow manage to install a DIMM in backwards.
The best part is you actually managed to get some of the LEDs on the cart lighting up. lol
18:33 - The inductor's main function in a buck regulator is to resist that instantaneous *change* in current when the input voltage is applied, so it basically slows the rate that the output voltage ramps up.
Otherwise, you would see the 12V (or whatever the input voltage is) on the output side of the inductor right away, which obviously isn't good.
(due to the inductance resisting the change in current, there will actually be a voltage drop *across* the inductor at the start of the cycle, which is how it can have a lower voltage on the output.)
This generally needs to work in conjunction with the capacitors as well, to help smooth the ripple on the (lower) voltage output. (it forms an LC filter).
The slowing of the change in current gives the buck reg time to sense (via feedback) when the output voltage rises to the desired voltage, so it will switch off the current again, until the output voltage drops below a cetain point, then it switches on the current again, and so-on. ;)
The output ripple is related to the inductance, the output capacitance, the load current, inductor losses, the switching frequency, and lots of other params I don't fully understand. lol
Just continue good work and the channel will rocket :) BTW keep these soldering and cleaning B-rolls as long as they are, many channels make it too long, what is just boring for many viewers.
I’m glad you like my editing - yes I agree that there’s really not much point in showing the whole process unless there’s something to show! Thanks a lot!
You deserve the views. Good content.
Thank you!
I have a Hakko FX-888D, which is a modern version of that same basic "system" of irons and tips that Hakko has had since the 1990s or whenever. I'm guessing your station is a clone of that same system and probably uses the same tips.
Hakko doesn't make a "hoof" tip but a 3rd party company "Plato" does. The hoof tips I have are Plato HS0530 and HS0531 - they would probably fit your iron.
I've hardly used them so I don't have much of an opinion about them. The couple times I did some TSOP soldering I found I was happy with a flat chisel tip, but I have very little experience with that type of soldering.
Back when I bought the FX-888D I felt like I was spending a lot on a soldering station. But now my perspective has changed, and I wish I had spent more on the FX-951, which is a cartridge system. I think the "888" system is great for 2 layer boards and lead based solder, but when working with multilayer motherboards and video cards, especially the later stuff with lead-free solder, I think the performance of the iron gets to be a problem.
Yes mine should be a clone of the 888D indeed. And I am also thinking of moving to a cartridge one.
I've had very bad luck with non-hakko tips. The ones which came with the station from Aoyue are useless.
I'll be looking into a cartridge one - not sure which one, too many options! Thanks for watching!
The algorithm started to like you I guess😁
I always picture the ‘algorithm’ as a guy with an old PC, ball mouse and CRT monitor. 😂 thanks for watching!
A lot of the problem with soldering iron tips is either a oxidation on the end or at the connection to the rest of the iron immediately after solder connection is done. Clean tip with a damp sponge or a ball of steel like hakko kits come with. When you use iron next time it should be a clean tip looking like a good tin job. No black or pitting e.t.c. A clean tip makes a world of difference absolutely night and day!
Thank you! I always clean the tip on a wet sponge and I have the steel mesh as well. Something I learnt many years ago after years of solder incineration 😂 thanks for watching!
I have some yellow T68-6 yellow toroids and some enamel wire. Validate the exterior diameter and count the turns, I can wind one for you.
That would be super! The wire is 1mm, I’ll have to confirm the diameters but what you see in the video should be pretty accurate. I’ll let you know when I have a minute. Thanks for watching and for your help!
@@tony359 Looks like you have a smaller T50-6 (13mm OD) core, it is one less turn on a T68-6 (17.5mm OD) core for a value of about .8 uH. I don't think anything is really critical as you mentioned, it is simply a choke on the incoming power rail.
@@JonathanBastienFiliatrault thanks for looking into that for me I appreciate that.
I might sound silly but I’d like to know: 0.8uH as in micro Henry? I thought the inductor came up as 80micro Henry? Am I mixing up the unit or measure? Thank you!
@@tony359 14 turns on a T50-6 does indeed give me 0.8uH, which is in the ballpark I am used to for small cores like this. Did you get my email ?
Hi, thank you for your videos and channel! I subscribe it, channel is very interesting for me. Keep creating! Greetings from Poland in central Europe.
Thank you!
Hakko is more like a hobby tool. From my point of view a only heavy duty soldering station can handle such a small tip and provide enough power to recover from thermal losses of the tip. I tried some “chinese clones” like 10-15 years ago which were complete garbage, then i got myself an weller wsp80(if i’m not mistaken) which was a huge step forward. With original tips worked like a charm. Then I couldn’t find those small tips anymore, and of course i wanted some other tip shapes which they don’t provide, so i switched to jbc with an t245 handle+cartridges which are awesome. Plus the variety of tip shapes is outrageous:) keep up the good work!
Im actually looking at cartridge type irons right now! I wouldn’t mind an upgrade. Thanks for watching!
Happy booting 🎉
always a happy feeling!
Sometimes, the TH-cam algorithm just works! :D
Ahaha finger crossed it won’t change its mind! Thanks for watching!
Excellent video! Like!
Thank you!
Leave the inductor. It's fine. Looks like the coil spacing should be more uniform... but even that I would leave well enough alone. If it were a precision piece of test gear and I couldn't get a calibration... Then I might investigate it. But for your system leave it be.
Yeah I think I might glue it together or maybe find a scrap board from where to steal a good one! Thank you!
Drag soldering :)
Absolutely. I just need to experiment a bit more on that. I’ll follow Louis’ advice and get a bigger bevel tip 🙂 thank you!
Why not try winding your own inductor? You can often find those cores in computer power supplies, so you might be able to find an equivalent one in a dead power supply. If the number of turns are different, unwind the good core and re-wind it to match what you need. It's pretty much the same as winding a balun for ham radio antennas.
Note that turns are counted on the inner diameter.
That’s a good idea. The thing is that I need 1mm enamelled wire and the core. By the time I buy them I can buy a finished inductor 🙂
But I’ll be definitely keep an eye for some spares from an old board as you suggest!
Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 I bet you could reuse the same piece of enameled wire from the broken original inductor and just replace the ferrite core.
@Mr Guru great thanks!
Great video! Just subscribed to your channel :)
Thank you!
Louis Rossmann has a nice video (posted on his second channel...) about soldering iron tips for reworking. Conical tips are indeed so bad they would lead someone to believe they suck at soldering. You probably ruined the tip after cranking up the temperature, something I've done several times to several tips until learning my lesson (don't ever go above 400 celsius!). Hope that helps.
I think I only went up to 420. I shall check his video thanks! But I feel I might need a better soldering station. This was mediocre 10 years ago 🙂 thanks for watching and for the advice!
Watched the video. But mine is not conical! :) It's a very tiny tiny tiny bevel one! :) 0.5mm I think. But he's got a lot of pointers, thank you!
@@tony359 Don't watch too much. He tends to suck the life out of people.
@@ShainAndrews ahah! I’ll keep that in mind 🙂
subscribed to someone good,why not to someone better?! good luck and Godbless always...
Very nice of you to say thank you!
👍
@tony359 No way is that an 80uH inductor!!!
No freaking way!
That is an iron powder core, and every different color means different permeability, thus different inductance for the same number of turns and same dimensions of the core.
The white side on yellow background means it is a -26 mix core, that is the most used variant of iron powder cores in switching PSU's.
The next thing you need to do is measure the exact dimensions on that core ( outer and inner diameter and hight ), that will be needed to find out the exact permeability of that core, and from that you can calculate the inductance ( N^2*(nH/N2), meaning you square the number of turns then you multiply the result by the permeability number of that core.
That core you are holding probably is something like T60-26 or thereabouts, which has a permeability of 50nH/N2, and with 14 turns ( NOT 13,5, there is no partial turn in windings! There are 14 turns inside the ring, that is what matters, despite the fact that only 13 can be numbered on the outside, the last one will be closed up by the load, so you have 14 turns! ), 14*14=196, then 196* 0.00000005, that will give you 10uH of inductance, which seams about right.
PS: You really should read more on general electronics, at least power supply stuff, it will help you perform much more interesting videos, because as it is, your lapses in this hold you back!
Hope this link will work, is it a datasheet of iron powder cores, different colors, different sizes and specific data on each of them!
www.mediafire.com/file/smcc7drc6nwbxdp/Toruri_cu_pulbere_de_fier2%25282%2529.pdf/file
@tony359 i'm glad to see you read my comment, hope it will help you both here and in the future.
I do have something else to add though, this type of core has what it is said as a distributed air gap, which basically means it has tiny holes distributed inside it to achieve the desired permeability.
Now, a broken core will have less permeability ( much less in your case with the core broken in 4 pieces ), and less permeability means less inductance ( again, much, much less in your case with 4 pieces of a broken core ).
You never want to let a circuit work with less inductance then designed.
I cannot be sure because of the lack of a schematic in your case, so i can only assume 2 cases:
1. If it is just a part of a simple LC filter then less inductance will not be such a problem, it just means the corner frequency of that filter is higher, so higher frequency stuff will get past it, but that should not ruin your day ( depending on the exact case ).
2. If that inductance is part of the voltage feedback loop of a buck converter then you most definitely DO NOT want to let it work as it is, it's inductance would be way, way lower than designed, and that will increase by quite allot the current ripple on that converter ( with very bad effects on the filter caps ), and also will modify too much the transfer function on the bode plot of that feedback loop, meaning it could go unstable in some conditions ( it could oscillate, which is a very bad thing for any converter and for any load ).
Just to be sure i would recommend to change that inductance, be sure to measure it's dimensions and search the datasheet i have provided, to find it and know it's permeability, then you can calculate the inductance needed, and buy it being sure it is the right one ( in the second case above a much larger inductance is just as bad as a smaller one ).
And also be sure to never buy a lower rated current than what it is needed, because if you stress that inductance at a higher current that it rating you risk saturation, and that is very BAD!!!
Saturations means way, way lower permeability then normal ( it would be just as if the core isn't even there in the first place ).
Even approaching saturation is very bad because you reach the point where permeability starts to drop quite fast, the inductance will change with the current by too much, and you do not want that.
If you cannot measure the maximum current needed from that regulator then try to estimate it, and be sure to choose an inductance with a higher current rating.
@@DjMarik78 I was about to rely then I got busy with work 🙂
I might have edited out the part where I say ‘you know I’m DIY when it comes to electronics’ 🙂 I know I’m always learning, I love electronics but I’m a self-taught student. I’m getting there 🙂 I always appreciate constructive input as you did of course. That’s how you learn.
My videos are a hobby. I repair for fun. This is what I can do. One day I might end up making Adrian’s digital basement’s style of videos. For now, I hope you enjoy my clumsy electronic skills and seeing me plugging a diagnostic board the wrong way round 🙂
Thanks again for watching and commenting! Great info about the inductor.
@@tony359 i did not meant it as an insult, it was just a conclusion after watching 3 of your videos.
Still i assure you i do enjoy your content, you do know allot of digital electronics and computer stuff, so that os what makes your repair videos worth watching!
So keep up the good work, i will continue to watch it and give any input i can.
PS: Thanks for the reply :)
@@DjMarik78 don’t worry I didn’t take your comment as an insult! 🙂
My transistor tester looks the same, ie, has the same graphics, and does inductors. I have MTester v2.07.
Someone suggests that the inductance of my component must be very low for that reason
@@tony359 I tried it on something that looked similar, ie, 10 turns, 1mm wire, 20mm dia, and it was 0.3 ohm 1.9mH.
Maybe try the TT on a high value inductor to see if it actually has that feature.
PS: what battery voltage does it display at the start, ie, it may be low.
@@SidneyCritic interesting, thanks for trying. Battery might be a tad low, I think it reads just below 9V. I'll try as soon as I can and let you know!
Awesome ✌🏻✌🏻✌🏻🥰🥰🥰
Thank you!
Can't you just glue back together the donut in the inductor with a drop in each break? It's just iron powder in a matrix, right?
Apparently I could, there's been a few suggestions about that. Thank you for watching!
Wondering if that Voltage Interceptor could be used as fix for a broken Socket 7 CPU fan mount?
It feels a bit overkill to me! a Molex adaptor would be much easier in that case! Thanks for watching!
How You cleanup Your boards after soldering. I am using IPA and toothbrush and after cleaning my boards are still "sticky", feel like there is some sticky residue when I touch the board with finger. Not kind of result that I was expected.
Are you using ‘no clean’ flux? But even with the amtech the board stays a bit sticky indeed. If you really want to wash it I recommend the SWAJ from electrolube. But it’s not cheap so if you don’t plan of re-using it for many plans…
Thanks for watching!
Can you explain which points to test on motherboard to see which part is at fault and where to start from. Thanks
I try to explain what I do and why in my videos, If you have a more precise question, I'd be happy to help but what you are asking me is too general. Thanks for watching!
you remind me of northbridgefix
solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, solid, I hope that wasn't meant as an insult, tony359 is awesome :)
Try JBC station
I’m indeed thinking of an upgrade. I need to search around. I’m sure JBC are great but wondering if there’s a cheaper alternative of similar quality? Thanks for watching.
Use your scope on Q11 and see if it is switching or not.
Q11 is the 3.3V transistor. You mean to check the input? Well it’s coming straight from the 5V so I can check but not really expecting to see anything there - even after removing (and jumping) the inductor. Would you agree? Thanks for watching.
@@tony359 No I meant the output, if that broken inductor is part of that I would expect it to be a switcher rather than liners.
@@FireballXL55 may be I’m saying rubbish but that inductor is on Q11 input, not output.
@@tony359 OK, it must be linear then.
Just strange to use such a high current inductor for that.
I've got an Asus P5A SS7 board that's stable with slower CPU's like Pentium MMX 233, even OC to 100x3, but unstable with faster AMD K6-2 450/550. I've re-capped the whole board and done a lot of testing but I cannot confirm a fault. Wanna fix it for me, lol! My best guess is voltage regulation, although it looks correct on a multimeter. Should I source replacement voltage regulators to see what happens?
Supply is always number one thing to check but when frequencies go up like that it could be anything. If you have an oscilloscope check that the voltages are clean - a multimeter will give you a partial view. I’m not familiar with the K6-2 but because the P233 over locked is stable I wonder if the supply has no issues with the current required. Worth trying a different power supply and RAM as well? And I’m sure you checked the bios too.
Was the board unstable before you re-capped it?
You could rewind you could sir
I could indeed! Thanks for watching!
Someone stepped on the inductor and mashed it?... that's PC abuse.
😂
You could just superglue the core back together and it would be plenty good enough.
Thanks. Doesn’t it need to make electrical contact? Thanks for watching.
@@tony359 No, the core pieces just need to be as close together as possible. Essentially what you have here is inductor with gigantic air gap in its core. When you glue it back together it wont be perfect but several magnitudes better. And since it works with the gap I would call superglue adequete fix.
@@Kizmox I’ll give it a go! I’d be curious to test it, my signal generator can do 1Mhz, that should give an idea of the efficiency before and after? Switching is usually 100khz I think. Thank you!
Geez 127,257 likes..... something wonky going on seeing the views do not match the number of likes
I see 271!
I believe that the broken choke is much less than 100uH.
1. Usually the tester you used is able to correctly identify and measure that value.
2. The usual values for the choke in that circuit is few uH.
3. What are the voltages on that and the other choke when operating (Core and I/O)?
With a P90 it’s 3.3V core and 3.3V I/O
Just a précision : capacitors smooth the voltage and inductors smooth the current
Very good point, thanks for that!
Don't expect that tester measure in the μH range. It takes a good LCR meter for that. That broken inductor looks like a part of an output CLC smoothing filter. In such a case its exact value isn't critical and you can use a 100μH replacement all the same.
Thanks. I've had a few different comments on that meter and that inductor but I believe we all agree that it's not a critical one and can be glued or replaced with another one without having to worry too much about its value - clearly without deviating wildly! Thanks for watching!
That interposer project is really cool. I've been toying with the idea of making an interposer that breaks the all pins out into a little header board so I can conveniently probe each pin with my oscilloscope while the processor is running various tasks.
Currently testing on a socket 7 mobo because some of the pentium mmx have those convenient read points on them but I don't see why you couldn't do the same with any PGA processor. I just want to see what the chip is doing in real-time. Not for any real purpose lol.
Not everything need purpose in life! 🙂 sounds like cool, I’d probably want to take a look myself! Thanks for watching!