I appreciate what you are doing. We Americans are just rediscovering what goes into a good axe and you are adding to the discussion instead of parroting. Especially about thin handles.
Hey Steven, I'm the dude that had a brain tumor that commented on your tan oak leaves toxicity video. Good news: I'm healthy and don't have a brain tumor. More good news: you've inspired me to get more into self sufficiency. I bought an old axe head and restored it and put an axe handle on it and felled (correct term?) my first tree. Later today, i'll be processing the timber and putting it away to dry. Just wanted to send you some sincere appreciation. Thank you Steven Edholm!
Awesome! Sounds like you have a new lease and are running with it. Be safe. I'll try to do some videos on axe use and safety stuff sooner than later. You can put yourself right back in the hospital wth that thing! In the meantime, I put a playlist together of axe videos that I think are worth watching. Some are instructional and some just show what is possible. th-cam.com/play/PL60FnyEY-eJAjiKUOnydf1R36Dtm-2E6c.html
@@BOOSTEDLASER I’m not him but really not very many people I would call axe masters think they are worth all that money. For example he will make this husky axe just as good for less than half the price. The husky axe is pretty much clone-ish of the gransfors already. They just have more love put in before they leave the factory. The husky axe is made by hultafors which is an equivalent forge in the same place, sweden. Been at it since 1671 or something like that
Very helpful, you answered a ton of questions and opened up new ones I hadn't considered. When I started learning as much as I could about guns it was channels like these that accelerated my understanding faster than anything else. It's just short of taking a class in person from them on the topic. Great work, thank you so much.
Yes sir, I think your spot on with the reworking of the inside of the ax head. Smoothing edges and sort of coning the inside for a better fit. At least at the entrance.
I got this axe, so I'm finding what you have to say really interesting. I don't use axes enough to have a deep understanding, or need for a more refined tool, but it is fun to think about.
I haven't used them enough to have a deep understanding either, but I'm working on it :) Many people are casual users and there may be a legitimate argument for a less refined and more robust handle, but this has gone to silly extremes. At the very least the area under the eye has to come way down to be useable as a multipurpose axe, but other refinements and putting it together better will mostly just result in a better axe all around and a better user experience I think. You could also get a car with no shocks and an uncomfortable seat and a huge fat steering wheel, just because you probably won't drive it very much. But then you sort of can't if you want to or need to, and the user experience won't be very pleasant.
I was just gonna buy an HB akka but after watching your videos I'm considering buying a council or Husqvarna and modding it. My fine carving skills aren't great so it'd be a good project for me
I couldn't agree with you more. I have bought in Greece the exact same axe two years ago (I know that Wetterlings manufactured the head for Hysqvarna). I dont know the manufacturer for the handle though.The fist handle broke, so I paid for a new one(the replacement was EXPENSIVE!). I thinned the belly and the back like you commented, I hang it myself (Thank you you tube!) and treated it with linseed oil. No problems since.I might do the extra mods to the throat. Thank you for sharing so useful videos with us. Keep up the good work.
Hi Chiosmet. I think this particular axe is actually made by hultafors now and they have a similar or identical model, but I've heard that wetterlings made some of the husqvarna axes too. This one is very smooth, obviously pressed in a die after forging to make it more uniform, if it's forged much at all. I think the wetterlings ones would probably be a little less finished looking.
Thats right.I also have a Wetterlings "Husqvarna " splitting hatchet. It has the Wetterlings stamp on the head (s.a.w Wetterlings ) and a "Hand Forged" stamp as well.I modded this one replacing the small hatchet husqvarna handle with a multipurpose Husqvarna axe handle because the hatchet head had the same weight and size of the multipurpose husqvarna axe(Food for 'thought'' to your video of the Husqvarna hatchet presentation).That mod made it my primary go to axe.It rocks!!
I would very likely do something like that with my husqvarna hatchet, but the head is pretty crooked. Maybe I'll take the head off and weigh it along with the axe.
I'd love to see it on video.It would be an interesting project for a useful mod of a poorly ergonomics designed quality axe and a way to transform it to real world useful tool. I' ll stay tuned..
the old time Finns made hafts with the outside annular rings at the rear and the centre (closer) grain on the front of the haft. They had a practice of debarking a strip of bark on one side of the tree and leaving it to heal over time, this resulted in very tight growth rings forming where the wound was...this would make the front of the haft, I imagine it is much harder.
Interesting. If I had to guess I probably would have said the opposite orientation would be stronger, but really only with the growth rings left intact. Bowstaves were "farmed" like that in the great basin. One would be split from a live tree and when it healed over, the two sides of the split would yield bowstaves.
Yes, the English Longbow was made from Yew Staves and the heartwood was to the front of the bow. I will research axe haft grain orientation further and also find the original article I had.
Thanks for this video series. I have this axe and am now looking at it with different eyes. Can't wait to see the next ones. I also recently purchased a Council Tool boy's axe. Much thinner handle. I know you won't like the huge aluminum wedge they use but it might be a great axe to review next. Very similar in size to Husqvarna but with a slightly heavier head and longer handle.
I'm very interested in the council boys axe. There are actually three versions, the basic boys axe, the forest service spec version from Omaha Knife ( omahaknife.com/index.php?id_category=26&controller=category ) and the velvicut bad axe version. I want to get every affordable axe in that class actually and test them all this year, but I have to figure out funding. I might do a crowd funding thing to do that. I liked the handle thickness on the council "camp axe" hatchet okay, though it's too short. The aluminum wedge shouldn't be that hard to remove. I just think it's a mistake in terms of longevity and future tightening of the handle with cross wedges when it loosens up. then again, it's easier to remove than a wooden wedge if needed.
There is a fire axe hanging on the firehouse wall in a ghost town museum called Nevada City in Montana. The axe probably dates to 1890 at most. I climbed the barricade/cordoning off banister just so I could grab the handle. It was a nice straight, tight midline grain and THE SLIMMEST handle I have ever grabbed. I have tiny hands. Like a toddler's, and I could wrap my fingers around it no problem. It felt as if I could swing it all day and my hands would just feel rested.
And just think most fore axes I've seen hung and swung have ben anywhere from 5ish lbs all the way up to 8 and half and almost 9 lbs and those old thin handles didnt break smashing them big heavy fire axes thru doors walls and roofs...in all sorts of wild weather from extreme heat and fire to extreme cold and water and ice
I have the smaller hatchet and it came with a terrible grind on it but I spent a few hours with a file and cleaned it up best I could and it cuts atleast...
It seems to be pretty common for Swedish axes to have thick handles, at least all the models that I've seen from GB and Wetterlings, same with the eyes, much bigger than American axes. Would it be possible that it's a hold over from before Hickory was commonly used on Swedish axes? I have the FSS Spec Boy's axe from Council Tool and also the Hudson bay and both have properly thin handles that I haven't felt the need to thin down at all, both very comfortable.
The European go to axe handle wood is usually ash. I have heard of birch being used on Billnäs type Finnish axes, though. PS: So it's Steve, huh? I'll try to remember that.
I need to watch some of those traditional finish and swedish videos and check out the axes and handle thickness. For the building and crafting axes I could see them leaving the handles a little thicker than might be ideal flex wise just to prioritize grip and control. I think there is a compromise there where at a certain point a handle is too thin to have good control. If you are basically swinging and essentially throwing the axe into a chopping cut when doing general wood processing you don't need the constant grip and control that might be needed for some hewing and carving. Just a thought.
The FSS CT Boys axe has been great so far but i haven't used it that much, only about 1/2 cord bucked / split so far. re: the thick handles though, i actually have a 2.5lb axe made by Sater Banko in Sweden and the newest it could be is from the mid 60s and it has a much thinner handle than newer wetterlings / gb.
I need an axe to recommend to people for a firewood axe to learn on that isn't too far from functional out of the box, and the CT boys axes seem like one of the best bets. Also the Snow and Neally boys axe. I'd like to get them all and test them. What is the bit like on the FSS CT out of the box? Is it thin or fat, hollow behind the bit, or fat or straight sided or other?
I bought the Husqvarna 26" Multi-Purpose Axe after watching your video about buying a status symbol to impress. I was considering getting a GB or HB axe, and quickly realized while watching that I was considering buying those high-quality Swedish axes because they were such high-quality items, but also because of the name recognition. Your advice to buy something cheap that you won't mind tearing up as a beginner is sound, and I have followed it. I must say that I got it at a very low price (Labor Day coupon), then when I revisited the site, it had already increased by $20 above the original asking price. Go figure.
Oh when they cut those they do-do so on a lathe it's probably not cnc but cut a similar way that a Cam shaft is done. They have a pattern and the handle billet they spin at the same rate geared together while a carbide cutter is traveling on a rack like on a machine lathe for when they're cutting threads or just using the half nut to auto cut your passes, except with a cam they're using a grinding wheel. Anyway it uses a stylus to trace the pattern so that whatever your cutter is it lifts up and down as it traces the profile as both the billet and pattern spin; whilst the cutter carriage travels down the rack.
I know that is the old way. I figured there might be new technology at the bigger outfits. There's some cool vids of house handle using one of those on YT. dont' buy their handles though...
Not really. A better home utility axe is the boy's axe size. The budget line council tool boy's axe is a good affordable option and much cheaper as well. This is a little undersized. it's really a compromise axe for packing more than anything else. th-cam.com/video/885pvnfMAY8/w-d-xo.html
Great discussion of tool geometry. It's often hard to anticipate what's wrong with a tool before you have lived with it for a long time. Also, as a man of strong opinions, tell us about your coffee preferences! I wonder what you might say on that subject, though it's a little off topic for the channel. But I would love to hear about it.
short version on coffee is I've been through about 9 or 10 different coffees looking for a decent light or medium roast. Dark roast, as Americans drink it, is basically burnt and the flavor is usually pretty burned out, but light and mediums suffer from acidity. Once in a while you get a good one that is smooth and still has aromatics left, but they seem to be not only rare, but inconsistent. The same roast from the same place will be great one time and sour the next. I've tried roasting my own with mixed results. I'm not sure it's possible to make a consistently great light roast, but I think it would be quite the rabbit hole to go down to try. I'm tempted though :)
@@SkillCult Gevalia is pretty good amd Dunkin Donuts believe it or not lol, to me the most crucial part is the ratio of coffee and water. I use a 1/3 measuring cup get a full scoop, then use my finger to slightly remove a shallow concave depression in the scoop. That with 12 cups of water makes a badass cup of joe. I know I'm late to the conversation, but I have been complimented on my coffee many times. Lol, take it for what it's worth.
I may not agree with all of your criticism, but man, it's nice to hear someone actually giving a product constructive criticism. It seems that all the "gear reviewers" on TH-cam just love everything about anything.
Yeah, the lovefest thing bugs me. A lot of reviews are just to sell product, but even when not, there just seems to be a lack of real consideration and detail. Almost every axe needs some modification or tuning up.
On the subject of axe 'ears'. I have had several axes over the years where some misguided person has beaten the ears hard down into the haft, presumably in attempt to tighten the grip on it. these are impossible to re-hang until the ears have been put right. Even on an axe with differential hardening/tempering [ie hard edge and soft body], you do need to do this hot. I generally have managed this with localised heating from an oxy torch, with the rest of the body being wrapped in wet cloth. I agree with you that the slope angle of the ears should be equal to, or slightly greater than the slope in the body of the head. A pain in the ass to do this, but it has saved some nice axes.
Like any others I bought mine on amazon and its seated much better than yours with almost no gaps. I agree though that the handle is too thick next to the head making it difficult to do any work while choking up on the axe. I've had the axe for a few years without any issues until my friend misused it and the handle actually cracked right under the head. It seems to be fine still, but I will most likely try to replace it. Good thing I found your videos!
Glad to hear you got a good one. I would not have bought 2 out of the three I've looked at in person. I'm not sure how tight they were, but they were all mounted very high like this one
Steven the Compliments are well deserved. you have taken time out of your busy life to show others how to become more skilled, that is priceless and appreciated greatly - i only hand out compliments if they are well deserved @@SkillCult and you have made the cut! stay humble real and giving... and you will go far at making the world just a little bit easier and a better place to live. Mahalo(thank you) and Aloha Steven
Doubtful. I'm not the person best to do that anyway probably. At this point I'd say I know more about what I don't like than what I do. I may do hands on classes again someday, but this is keeping me pretty busy!
I know what you mean as far as the handle goes, I got a great Dayton or jersey style 4lb felling axe, and the handle is thinner than most store bought hatchets, and that thing just whips.
eggzackly. Such a better experience to use a lively handle. You can look on ebay at older axes with original handles, most are larger like that and they typically have pretty thin handles relative to new stuff.
Regarding cylinders and fit, your absolutely right. Same principle applies to automotive valves. They are designed to seal on the lip of the mating surface across a very small cross section. This is so maximum *pressure* can be applied on the seal by the springs, resulting in a better seal. Small mating surface area, enormous pressure. Were it a larger mating surface (i.e., axe: smoothing out the ears for a more gradual flush mount), pressure and impact stresses are distributed more evenly. Your seal will be inherently weaker, but we are not dealing with manifolds and exhaust gasses under pressure, we are dealing with a wooden axe handle. Smoothing out the contact area to mate in a more distributed way with the head will result in an overall better fit. The flexibility of the wood fibers and the forces of the wedge pushing them into the eye will more than make up for a larger contact area - it is much better suited for this application.
Given that tapering the inside of the lug will increase the total contact surface area available, not including all the other area the handle will come into contact with now that it fits tighter, it should be a superior solution over shaping the handle to fit the lug. Hopefully that makes sense, i didn't want to type a huge paragraph trying to explain if it's already understandable.
Yeah, I get it and I think it's a legit idea, but it isn't a big change. I only took off maybe a little over 1/32 and back about 5/16 inch into the head. I could go deeper in the head I guess, but not in this case since the handle doesn't really fit well. that's one of the few areas where there even is contact.
That is absolutely brilliant. Thanks man. ps: the edge on Husqvarna axes has a machine grind from the factory, so you can do yourself a great favor by grinding it and finetuning the blade into razor sharp.
Ah man, this is so daunting. I just need an axe for when I go camping without all the hassle of hanging/carving the handle. I don't mind sharpening, I don't that anyway. Will the cold steel trail boss/hultafors Amy or gransfors forest axe be better buys for me, ie no modifications needed? I like that the husq is cheaper, but I'm willing to spend on a life long pass me down especially if it's ready to go. Please advise.
Not really. It doesn't work that way. Very few axes come ready to go and then they get dull or damaged at some point and require restoration. Axemanship includes the skills and tools to maintain and set them up as well.
@@SkillCult thanks for taking the time to reply. I'vw nearly finished your playlist on this axe and I feel like I would give it all a shot once I've used it a little. Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Yes, thank you. I thought I answered this, but just realized that's because I left a comment on the blog post. Very interesting article. totally different than the handle paradigm here. Makes me want to experiment. Look at this one. th-cam.com/video/y78U55kBv5Y/w-d-xo.html
I would just leave the head on the handle until the handle needs replacement. If the head even keeps coming loose then that would be another thing. I agree that a lot can be done with the handle but the nice thing is that this is not by any means an expensive axe. On the other hand Hultafors has pretty much an identical axe for the same price or slightly less so I'd be interested on your thoughts comparing the two. Thanks for the video.
It was too loose to not do something, though I didnb't have to take it all the way off, it gave me some info. This is made by hultafors, same axe, just less finished and a different stamp.
Very heavy handle for such a light head, most new axes come that way, I shave mine thin. Nice touch in tapering the bottom of the eye, wedged at the bottom and at the top. The lip of wood from the sharp bottom of the eye is a great starting place for shear to take hold. I have a pet peeve...... those useless lanyard holes or nail hanging hole...... Why do they put a hole in the handle?
They don't bother me unless they are in a bad place or modifying the knob. They work for putting a toggle in for a carry strap. Otherwise not much use for them. I never have anything dangling in there. That seems way too dangerous to me.
I can't help but see the relish between the hole and the end of the handle being knocked loose when setting the head. but that doesn't happen much, only another possibility. The physics is there but the striking device is not concentrated on the exact place.
How do you feel about the label on the handle saying it’s not for slamming in wedges? I know your not a chainsaw guy but I purchased this axe with the intention of having that capability. Do you feel it’s due to the design or the rushed fit that makes it not suitable for hammering in on the back side.
That sounds weird. They probably mean metal wood splitting wedges, which of course you shouldn't hit with any axe. I wouldn't hesitate to drive wedges with it. The eye is quite large, so it should even hold up to a fair amount of abuse.
I kind of want to buy this axe because of the price but seeing the many negative reviews on Amazon regarding the bit cracking off of the head and all of the work required to make this axe work, I'd rather just buy the handle and axehead separate and put it together myself. I don't have the tools to work with this but I have more confidence in my labor than Husqvarna...
I love this channel. good information. my old man neighbor passed recently, I scored an old craftsman double bit of his and a really nice thin replacement handle. I couldn't believe the perfect grain and straightness. they don't make them the way they use to.. that's my ramble.
that's what Mr. Baker said. I should have pointed out that I don't think it matters that much either way as long as the wood is solid. Most handle breakage is still user error.
I think that head is made by hultafors, and is the same one on my 19" axe by them. It's handle is too beefy too, especially near the head. I try to round the inner edges of the bottom of the eye as well. I feel it steps/slides onto the handle tighter, and avoids breaking the fibers of the handle which would do nothing to help grip.
Makes sense to me to round the bottom edge. I've done if for a long time, so it works. I can't see any good reason to leave it sharp. I'm sure this one is made by Hultafors too.
If you haven't already check out the book "The Man Who Made Things From Trees". The title is a little misleading, but it's a great story. The Welsh author has an ash tree felled and brings the wood to different craftsmen all over to make as many things out of it as possible. There's quite a few gems of info. from them as they make everything from tent pegs to wagon wheels out of it. There seemed to be a preference for wider grain, depending on what was being made. It was a good read at the least, written by someone who has a reverence for the material, although he himself is not a craftsman. It was great spending so much time on just a single type of wood too. It got me thinking about doing that for each my native woods, just spend a few weeks researching and working only alder for instance, then move onto another. Lately I've been really intrigued by ocean spray, I'm finding all kinds of uses for it.
Haven't heard of it. I'll see if I can get it through my library. Ocean spray is cool stuff. It makes great arrows when you can find good shafts. Probably the best shaft material right here, though it doesn't grow as straight and clean like in the N.W. the stuff is hard.
thoughts on double or single bit? it seems like a lot of extra weight to use a double bit, but i've seen so many both old and new that it makes me wonder if there is any advantage besides having to sharpen half as often?
usually one bit is sharpened more blunt for rough and dirty work. The main advantage though is balance being symetrical. Single bit axes suffer from balance problems making the double bit better, especially when the axe is swung in a horizontal plane. They are more dangerous though and no poll for beating on stuff. I actually don't have a lot of chopping experience with double bits. I have a cool 2.5 pound head I want to get a handle on and use some this year. I like having a poll though.
Enjoying your videos and the blog. I'm wondering about your thoughts on the advantages of purchasing a new Scandi axe like this vs finding an older american head and rehanging? I personally cannot justify the price (especially Gransfors) when there are serviceable heads all over the country at fleas, garage/barn sales, and even sometimes ebay? Is it the size of these compromise/all around axes?
I'd rather see most people go with used stuff. It's a good opportunity to learn about putting handles on and it's cheaper. Unless you need something close to out of the box, see what you can find. Not sure about finding good handles, but there are a couple places that look promising and not too expensive. The weight of these is going to be around 2 pounds or less. It's enough to get by and not horrible to carry. They don't cut with authority though. If you watch the video before this you'll see that I'm putting a lot of snap into the swing to get it to cut reasonably deep. That's just how it is. 2 lb heads are not uncommon and you can do some modification that will reduce the weight. I haven't tested the idea, but I think taking a two pound head and filing a notch out of the bottom to give it closer to this shape will take a little bit of weight off and improve the balance a bit hopefully. In fact I plan to do just that with a 2 lb head when I'm done with this project and see which I'll end up favoring. Screw the Gransfors, way too expensive. They have excellent handle quality and hang, but that's not enough given the price. Or, you can go with a boys axe. I just got the council 2.25 lb 28 inch boys axe today from Amazon for under 40.00 shipped. The handle looks plenty good and reasonably close to what I think it should be thickness wise. It seems like it has potential but will need filing out of the box to be at all useable. If you get a 5.00 head and haft your own though you'll learn more and get off a whole lot cheaper than that.
Thanks for the great reply. I've heard good things about council tool. I have so many garage sale heads just piled up that I will most likely never hang, that I can't justify buying any new axe I don't think. I am intrigued by your cordwood challenge, and may enter. We heat with wood and I love axes. I have done a fair bit of hewing for homestead timberframing, but very little felling or bucking beyond limbing before sawing up. What weight head do you consider ideal for bucking firewood? Don't these "forest axes" seem a bit light for so much chopping?
These are absolutely light for processing firewood. I'm still figuring out what weight is ideal for me, but I'd recommend starting with 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 pounds i think on a 28 to 30 inch handle. I think it depends on style and experience. I like to buck standing close up over the log, so a long handle is a hinderance there. Even 30 felt a little long to me, but that is really mostly due to my bucking style. I'm not sure if other people do it the same, but I like it. It's also easier to be accurate with a shorter handle, though it can be argued that it's less safe. You can swing a 2.5 lb axe all day too. Definitely go with hanging your own. I wish I'd collected more over the years. I could have had a hundred pounds of good axes. The cordwood challenge will make you better really fast. If you're already decent with swinging tools and familiar with basic strategy and axe function you should be able to do it fine if you have the time and the wood. You can always just do a 1/4 cord, but I'll bet when you finish that you'll want to keep going :) People starting out completely new to axes are another thing. I think a warm up year is in order for most of them. I did some research on axe handle sources looking around the net for recommendations. Here are my notes. HOUSE HANDLE: cheap, mixed reviews, might be best to call and order on the phone to be sure they pick something good. Uses a tan type of hickory sometimes of unknown species? Can have them pick hand selected handles without varnish and also octagon option. www.househandle.com/products.html#house BEAVER TOOTH. More expensive than house handle and most models are out of stock. also as hickory handle store on ebay, but not much choice. stores.ebay.com/Hickory-Handle-Store Omaha knife company looks promising. All are graded and first choice grade is 16.00. www.omahaknife.com/axe.htm Let me know how it goes! There's plenty on hanging axes on youtube, though less on tuning handles, but I'll be talking about that a bit even though it's a work in progress for me as well.
I can get decent handles from two local hardware stores mostly if I check and pick through them, have several handles laying around that I bought when I liked the grain. My favorite axe has a mediocre handle on it by the standards of the modern axe enthusiast, hickory heartwood without perfectly perpendicular grain, although it runs straight through. I'm not super convinced about the necessity of avoiding such things. I've also been experimenting with making my own. I have had very bad luck with axe handles from my own white ash, they don't have the strength and shear off right at the eye after very little normal use. I have a few ash hatchet handles going strong. I am now using black locust and it seems to hold up so far. There is a lot of shagbark hickory locally abundant but none on my farm. I prefer to use my own wood because it pleases me, but if I saw someone knocking down a hickory I would try to grab some.
I can't wait to see what you do. I have a wetterlings #118. Its the wetterlings equivalent of the gb small forest axe. I really prefer the wetterlings head design because it has a thicker wedge profile that splits much better than the small forest axe which tends to penetrate deeply without opening up the grain. But the handle of the gransfors is much nicer than the wetterlings. The wetterlings handle suffers from the same issues as your husky axe, especially the swell at the butt end. I had heard that wetterlings was making these for husky so this could explain the similarities. My plan was to make these same mods that you are proposing. I'll try it, see how I like it, then if I'm not satisfied, I have a spare small forest axe handle that I'll swap it out for. The eyes seem close enough in size that I'm confident it'll work.
Really good vid. I've often thought about radiusing the leading edge of the 'wing'. I've never liked seeing shavings from the head cutting the handle. I've thought it's better to have the wood fibers 'ending' under the radiused edge instead of being sheared. Those sheared fibers contributing to spliting? But I enjoy the detail you go into.
I've thought about doing it more extremely, like with a much larger radius, so that the handle has a little space to "work" and move under the edge of the eye without getting damaged at all.
The idea of pushing the head 1/2 inch down seems really smart, i'd do it on my axe, but honestly i've had it for a year and it worked fine for me and when i do break the handle, i might order a handle from gransfors/wetterlings. On that note, how do the size of eye of the Husqvarna and gransfors compare in size? Could you fit a scandinavian forest ax handle on the husqvarna axe?
I just got back from the woods using my Husqy axe and holy crap, I couldn't agree more about the hook at the end of the handle, even when i was cutting a smaller spruce I genuinely thought the axe was gonna slip out of my hand when i was holding it in a less that squeezing hard manner.
Yeah, when I spotted that I knew it was ramped up funny, though I didn't think it would be as bad as it is. I started out with soft hands, but it gave me a blood blister really fast. Just a little change in the shape would improve it, but I think I like the more hooked shape best. No matter what after a good amount of time, it is a area of high stress on the hands, at least for me, but it can be better or worser. I'll measure the two axe eyes for you later today, but you should make your own handle, nudge, nudge... ;)
It looks very close, but it's actually hard to measure with the handle protrusion. It seems like a gamble since these are made to go on specific heads. If anything the gransfors might be a little longer, but narrower, but I can't be sure without cutting it flush.
Just finished listening to Mors Kochanski talk about axes and he says in fewer words the same thing about the Gransfors. Its popular because of Ray Mears and its too thick.
If it were a good example of both, cost not an issue, probably the GB. It would need less work. Much better handle design and hafting quality. Still too fat, but that is easy to fix. With this one it's a matter of a poor fit and poor design that takes more than some scraping to remedy in my case at least. I just sold my GB, but it was really crooked. This will be a fine replacement I think once I'm done with it. It may still be a hair longer too.
I've actually encountered a few comments lately about the handles on the CT Velvicut line being too thin. Apparently the ones over 24" are actually properly thinned out, but unfortunately users aren't used to seeing a proper axe handle. The other issue I see is the thinner handle is appreciated most when chopping. Since a lot of users only use an axe to split and limb I think a many will never appreciate the difference. I'm glade I'm not the only one who thinks Gransfors handles are too thick. I was surprised when I got my Small Forest Axe since I'd only seen and used their hatchets up too that point. The handle to me is surprisingly thick and rigid. The eye is almost the size of one from a full sized American axe. Since they use American Hickory for the handles I'm not sure why the eye is so large and handle so thick. They should be taking advantage of the Hickory's properties. The following day after using it my wrist hurts. Even after just a short time in use it beats up my wrist a surprising amount. Yesterday I used a couple of axes with handles that I personally shaped and hung and today my wrist feels fine, my hands are a different story but they need the workout ;-) It bothers me that the Swedish manufacturers flatten the palm swell. Ideally I perfer the swell to flare out in all directions. On my Gransfors, and from what I can tell your HB in the video the swell is not only flat on the sides, but thinner than the shoulder. This tells me that they wasted the material that could have otherwise produced a better palm swell. My guess is that they did this so they could drill the silly lanyard hole that honestly I wish wasn't present.
Yes, the standard has shifted. It reminds me of this doctor that called a lab to inquire why they changed the normal testosterone level to a lower number and they said because testosterone levels have dropped in the populace, so the higher number was no longer normal! Yes, that is really how tests are measured and interpreted. I wish I had talked about the grey area of handle thickness. I think there is a zone where handles can be okay and more durable, and good for learning or novice choppers, but this handle is not that at all. Cook talks about how the thinnest handles require care to use. And I think you are right on both the use and especially to me the amount of use axes are getting. Also, it might just be perceived as normal soreness. I was seriously shocked at the gransfors thickness and have thought long and hard about other reasons that they would be so thick. I'm pretty sure it's just overbuilding though. I don't have a lot of opinion on the hand swell, but your point is interesting. I really just want the thing that causes the least pain and blistering! I like a lanyard hole (not for a lanyard, which I think it dangerous and unnecessary) because you can slip a toggle into it for a simple carry strap, but I don't like where they put it on either axe and would rather put it on myself. It is especially annoying on the gransfors. I would probably gain nearly a full inch in length by re-carving the handle if it were not there and I definitely want that extra inch. If I was planning to keep it, I'd figure out a way to fill it in and do that. I may end up doing that with the husqvarna, though hopefully I won't have to. I think I can effectively gain a half inch on it. The palm swell is actually wider than the shoulder by about 1/8 inch. I'm guessing that was the limiting dimension of the handle stock. I ran across the most interesting reference to an axe called the Aroostook wedge. It was in a youths encyclopedia of knowledge or something like that. In general, the passage sounds legitimate, but recommends the best all purpose axe to be a wedge shape with perfectly straight sides from edge to poll. Presumably it originated from Aroostook maine. This is similar to what dudley cook recommends and I've seen some other maine made axes with similar shape. The claim is that it is extremely efficient, throws chips and cuts deep without sticking. Every heard of it? There seems to be almost no information on the pattern. I found one old catalogue with a listing for it and those two references are it. Might have to fire up the forge and make one to try it!
Steven this was very enlightening, I’ve never heard someone really talk about what a proper axe handle should be like. Especially with all the “Viking” axe remakes on the market. All these curves and fat handles. How would one find out how thin one should be when modifying one.
Too many axe handles made on overbuilding or weird curvy looks with protrusions. I have a couple of videos on resilience factors in axe handles. Basically, the less flashy and figured the better is my conclusion.
Hey Steven, how does one get handle patina? I know use is one obviously, and oiling. but how do you get the character like dark blotches here and there and such? Can't wait for 2018 Axe cordwood challenge btw.
Steven, I’ve started rasping down my axes, thanks to you and have got most of them functional, or at least better than they were! My son in law gave me a couple of axe heads . The handles were very badly weathered on both. The handles looked like 40 year old hoe handles, If you know what I mean. One is a plum and the other is a Collins I think? It’s marked USM 3 1/2 near the poll . It has scallops. I hafted both of them. And profiled the plum. Looking forward to the rest of this project! I just picked up a new husqvarna forest.
Alright, fewer thick handles in the world! :). I'll try to finish out this project this year. They are relatively popular videos. I was thinking about rolling it all into one shorter vid with specific steps on how to pimp out this axe.
I know I’m one of those people who want to see you swing their axe! Can’t help it! I’m 72 and have used up both shoulders, to some degree,and can’t realistically swing the way you do! Man! That was hard to say! I’ll be watching all your videos.
My birthday is Monday and i found this axe for $50, my wife thinking about getting it for me. The main thing that throws me off about it is the atrocious grind I've seen in most reviews. Other than that, it seems like a good deal of an axe compared to other Swedish axes. Does it have polyurethane in it?
There is no filler in the head at all and it's not glued, so you can take the handle off if you need to to work on it. The grind is rough, but it's actually closer to useable than most. Any axe will need some work in that regard and it's not a big deal if you have a sharp file.If I have any complaint it's that there is not a lot to work with if you want something specific, but there is actually more to work with than on a gransfors as far as I've seen. Don't sweat that part. I think it can be a good axe if you take some time with it and think of it as a kit. Time modifying and refining it is time well spent.
Having been so very dissapointed with store bought handles over here in the UK for a fantastic old elwell 2 3/4lb head thats been in the family for a few generations. Im lucky enough to be able to cut lovely straight grained ash and then reeve it down for handles - Im currently using v3.0 and even that is too thick in places (even though i have the somewhat damaged original handle to work from (28 inches and a sweet ovoid shape) Sadly my drawknife skills are lacking so far in the precission so its a tad rough/ugly in places. loving the discussions and thoughts on how far from useable you and others are finding them too./
I used a 2-3/4 pound axe a lot last year for firewood processing and really liked it. You have a lot better handle wood there than I've got out here. I need to start distinguishing handle thickness and rigidity when talking about this stuff. They are interrelated, but not synonymous and there isn't a linear association. As +woodsman spirit pointed out, some woods are not as stiff as others, and there is density to consider as well.
Haven't been a fan for a long time. The indestructable thing is nice, but they never seemed to chop well. My neighbor has the camp axe, so I might give it a whirl since it's been a really long time since I gave up on them.
as usually I love what happening here... I f made on a late, there shouldnt be a reason why these handles should not have the same superior lines and tapers as antique handles... had a kent pattern felling axe that had a fawns foot from heaven! the only explaination would be that they get away with inferior grain direction in the handles and cut down on cost that way... btw: having the small forrest axe, I think you got the scandinavian forest axe there... unless the size is so misleading on screen! cheers
Yes, you are right about the forest axe not being the small version. People always point out that these companies have been making axes for hundreds of years, but of course those people are all dead. It seems likely that decisions are now being made by people that aren't axe users. it's an easy market right now. Hopefully as the axe market becomes more sophisticated, and hopefully more experienced (cordwood challenge, hint hint) that will improve.
SkillCult absolutely man! I try to do my share about education, using an axe a lot as well... but in a different manner! I got some ideas for getting back into felling axes... which never played a big role for me... and the cwc is the perfect opportunity. chat soon Steven... btw: I love how you point out people as being dead or stupid... lol! blunt no-bs talk!
Interesting discussion of haft and head mods. On these axes I think the straighter haft is better and yes, they can be slimmed down considerably. Leverage dictates that the axe haft will shear close to the head, so the axe haft will not be stronger if it is left any thicker than where it enters the eye. Hickory is OK, but I the more I use axes the less I believe it is the best wood, certainly in cold climates it splits quite frequently and splinters causing injury to the hand. Also because of the density of Hickory it transmits more vibration. I have recently done a lot of re-hafting of axes and used Birch and Ash. I used Birch as is the custom, on my Finnish Billnas Axes. The mechanics of the Billnas if very differnt to the typical European or American Axe (check out the videos on my channel). I have made new hafts for the Billnas as per the original design, they are curved in a unique way and have a large knob on the end of the haft that enables the wood cutter to keep a more relaxed grip. the haft in the Billnas and Kellokoski Axes if very thick where the haft goes into the eye and very thin at the top of the axe head (in consideration of physics this is a good design). Also the blade profiles are very thick and wedge like ( this, again is quite contrary to Euro and US axes). The 'ears' on the Husqvarna and other axes I suspect might be a way to reduce the likelihood of breaking the haft if it is levered sideways as it would be more likely to break across a straight sharp edge as you mentioned. I look forward to your vids and would enjoy further discussion with you. All the Best, Chris
Great stuff Chris! I've spent a little time going over that great finish house building video (I'm sure you know that one) trying to get a look at the axes and handles, but the shots are so short and there is a lot of movement. From personal experience, I believe there is compromise between ability to grip the axe comfortably and tightly for a long period of time, thus allowing for control, and the flexibility that reduces handle shock. I'm particularly interested in that for hatchets and carpentry axes. With chopping axes for general forestry and wood processing, I think of chopping as throwing or propelling the axe, and I don't feel that is the same at all as making very controlled cuts as with carving, hewing or carving notches, so thin handles are fine all the way to the butt even, though I think it's nice to have a little meat at the grip still. I think there is obviously a lot of room for error and many tools that are not ideal are still useable, but there are also silly extremes like this handle which is a full inch thick at the center and has very, very little flexibility. One analogy I've use before is that if you were to carve the end of a baseball bat and hang an axe on it, it becomes obvious where the axe is going to break. We've taken something that barely flexes and created a point where it bends easily, the weakest point. I think in this case that is about what we have. Once thinned more though I think it becomes more complicated. My tendency is to think that if you thin out the entire handle, then you've got something that is distributing stress along it's length, thus removing stress from any particularly vulnerable point. Along those lines of thinking, it may be best to leave the areas typically under the most stress (minus the eye size which is a fixed variable unless designing from scratch) a little bit heavier, but I'm on the fence about that still. I've thought a lot over the years about what could possibly motivate Swedish axe manufacturers to make such thick handles, and the only reasonable sounding possibility I could come up with (besides over building for inexperienced users) with was cold weather, though it didn't seem enough. Maybe the faults of hickory that you mention, coupled with extreme low temps, has lead to these very thick handles. I've also wondered recently about using more flexible woods just to be able to retain thickness for grip, in for instance a short hatchet handle that I would like to keep thicker than ideal for flexibility in order not to sacrifice grippability. So I'm glad to see you have something to say about that. I'm just really starting to explore the native woods here, but I have somewhat limited options, a few species of oak basically and one of ash, though it is hard for me to get. At to the geometry, what a mares nest that is. I've yet to see a good comprehensive discussion. It seems that people either are claiming to understand it but offer no analysis of other options, or it is so poorly explained and illustrated that it's difficult to understand exactly what they are saying. The more I read about it, the more questions I have. not only do I not understand it entirely, at this point I don't even have a good working preference. I've used quite a few different axes, but I have a lot more questions that answers, and I think most of us probably should! I was recently reading an old encyclopedia entry and the author recommended the perfect axe as a straight wedge for poll to edge known as the aroostook wedge (on which I can find almost no other information). His claim was that it is the most efficient axe design, cuts efficiently, throws chips and never sticks. Imagine that! If you have any good resources on axe geometry, it's a subject I'm increasingly interested in. I hope to test it somewhat intensively at some point. For now I'm collecting ideas and opinions, none of which, of course, I will actually accept :) I started on a Hudsons Bay axe and learned to hate the design mostly because the eyes are so small that they come loose and break at the eye constantly. I figured that in the evolution of axes, the ears were a way to increase surface contact to basically keep the head on the handle, without having to use the large amount of metal required for say an american style axe with a large poll. All assuming this happened in an evolutionary sequence from wrapped eyes to polled axes, in which the hudson's bay axe is a link. I had heard somewhere that the ear prevents shearing as you describe and that makes sense too. Of course for an axe like this, the design is good for choking up when necessary. An American pattern axe can be modified for choking up by simply filing out the same space on the bit side of the eye, but it's an afterthought, and probably not easy to do if thinking from the perspective of manufacture. I'll definitely check out your vids when I get some time. Nice talking with you.
Hi Steve Check out my comments on Carbon Steel Love TH-cam Channel with regard to Council Tools Hudson Bay Axe’ head design; not a good design! My approach to haft making/ modifying is I use them for a while and if they are not comfortable or effective, I cut them off and make a new one! I have made a few straight hafts in the past, but haven’t had much luck with them, though ‘straighter’ might have worked better for me. I use axes frequently, unlike most You Tubers, so I only like to express my opinions based on my experience of an axe and my historical research. With regard to Finnish Axes I suspected they must be effective designs because, to use WW2 as an example, they were used to help save the economy, men women and children were expected to process wood and the government awarded ‘axe pins’ to acknowledge how much wood the citizens could cut. Most Finns were poor and often one axe would be all they had…so my thinking is, they had to be pretty good at both felling trees, limbing and splitting. Broken hafts would be seen as an inconvenience to say the least, so I believe that the design of the head and axe haft would have to be efficient and very mechanically durable. The Billnas and Kellokoski axes are, generally speaking, thick, straight-sided wedges (with some variation on grind angles, usually steep and cutting edge profile and ‘attack angle’). By attack angle I mean the degree which the cutting edge is in relationship to the centre line of the haft. Yes, I have some info on old Finnish and Russian/Siberian style axes (see my videos). Haft length interests me too, the Finns are rather heavy heads on rather short hafts…as are the Russian/Siberian. Some of the bushcraft community’ are now experimenting with shorter hafts and heavier heads, though most are terrified of owning an axe over 2lbs. The Russian/ Siberian axes tend to have a huge eye (typically triangulated) which I think has some benefits. I also have a few old English axes (not surprising since I am from England). I have lived in British Columbia, Canada for 11 years and currently have two rural properties, the new property is heavily forested so I have no shortage of opportunity to use axes to clear and process firewood (Aspen, Spruce, Birch and some smaller Maples). It is good to see your ‘vigorous chopping’ with the Husqvarna Axe, my pace is somewhat slower at the moment as I have had a few minor mishaps in the woods resulting in some ‘wear and tear’ on my body :)
eventually with antibiotics, for years actually. I'm not convinced that we're ever rid of it, but that is a big old controversy. Either way, I consider it more a susceptibility issue than an infection. Infection is the simple way to look at it, but not very useful.
By the way, your Gransfors Bruk is not the Small Forest axe but the Scandinavian Forest Axe. The Small Forest Axe is only 19.5 inch handle. The Scandi is 25 inch handle.
It's weird being an old guy and a mechanical engineer who literally grew up with axes . All due respect - I don't see the importance of being able to grip around a handle behind an axe head . A hatchet used in fine work is a different story . I wonder how many old timers still use a simple piece of tin can or thin copper on the edge side of the handle ... wrapped in "green" / untanned deer or rabbit skin which is wrapped around the metal . Applied wet and hot , it shrinks . Followed up with a wrapping of sisal or hemp twine and covered with hide glue or epoxy . I like this video a lot and Thanks for making it . All the best .
handling I've noticed is not nearly as important to others as it is to me. I'd like to change that, but I think it's largely a matter of work style. this is a multipurpose axe. It is not only feasible, but inevitable the way I use axes, that I'll be holding the axe right below the head to work, and constantly in general handling. I've never put metal underneath, but rawhide is my favorite axe collar! I have a video series on that. One reason I like it is that it can be low profile and not interfere with handling.
IMO , handling is as important as edge retention on the edge . Some folks make judgments when they haven't used an axe for 10 solid hours and wind up with sore hands , wrists and arms , a broken axe because of a poorly balanced axe with a crappy handle . IMO #2 , I ask people in various workshops over the years what their confidence level is in a given axe , knife or other tool . "Do you feel confident this axe , hatchet , knife , saw etc. with get your ass out of a bad situation ? " . Have a great weekend .
Sorry about the delay getting back to you Steve, I eventually, after several hours, found one of the articles that describes why the haft should be made with the outer, sapwood growth to the rear of the haft, see link below; www.sihistin.fi/en/woodwork/axe.html
edit 2 - but grain orientation either way would be 90 degrees out of what we are told traditionally to do. edit - just seen the comment below that you guys had alreay discussed this. opposite to traditional yew longbow - would it not be better to be more like a bow due to the forces involved ? heartwood in (back of the axe) and sapwood front - because heart wood resists compression whilst the sap wood resists being held under tension....BUTTTTT you really do not want heartwood in a helve - I would have thought that the rear of the axe would be compressed when the head strikes and the front somewhat stretched.
to add to your aritcle... from young farmers guide by s todd... books.google.co.uk/books/content?id=n7JMAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA279&img=1&zoom=3&hl=en&sig=ACfU3U2eS5hPY6xrLeK9uo_hsYaZtMvHXQ&ci=104%2C61%2C810%2C679&edge=0
Thanks for joining the discussion, my observations were based on my interest in the development and cultural variations of axes. The Finnish People have a very strong working relationship with their axes, 'Kirves' and have/ had the oldest recorded forges. The practice of making helves was a documented practice. Without making two helves with opposite orientations and abusing them until they fractured I could not provide scientific evaluation. I would conjecture that there might be two benefits from the heartwood at the front, 1. tighter grain that would resist bruising from over-strike 2. stronger resistance to compression fractures (such as when pushing down on on haft to release it from a cut), perhaps fatigue to the wood cutters hands might be a factor with one orientation vs another (I have noted some hafts give much more shock to my fingers, wrists and elbows, than others).
Thanks, love this old stuff! Certainly a philosophy on axe-design that most enthusiasts can relate to on the whole. Fascinates me how the Finnish Axes, Billnas, Kellokoski, Mariefors Bruks meticulously evolved and documented the design of shorter Birch hafts, long-socketed and tapered (to the eye-end) axe heads, relatively sharp bends in the bottom 1/3 of the haft and large 'knobs' on the end of the haft. Not to mention the steep wedged heads and steep ground cutting cutting angles. I cannot believe that these design factors were inefficient as the Finnish People lived by their axes, particularly well recorded is there WW2 war effort where women and children were given axe- shaped brooches as awards for producing firewood. Before I get too carried away!...the whole perspective of long-handle lighter head vs short-handle heavier head deserves deeper scrutiny. I have a few older axes handed down from ancestors, they have larger heads and shorter hafts.
oooooh, good one! I was looking last night for good axe stuff from the 19th century. It's very hard to find. I think a lot of it is because it was such a common tool as to not need much discussing. I may make my next handle that way.
This is a good video for the most part..... very long winded saying the same thing repeatedly.. but I get it is to emphasize the issues with the axe. Anyone who knows axes that own this 26' axe, like I do, knows the problems with it. But who wouldn't be fixing the handle on this axe. Most of us do..... Spoke Shave, sandpaper, fine knife for thinning the handle is what your going to need. That makes the long story short. Make it to your own specs like most of us do.....Like I did..... Over all it's still a good axe and is very practical after you've altered it. I am very satisfied with mine.... bang for the buck it is a good deal in comparison to other Swedish made axes.....
@@SkillCult I honest don't know one person who owns this axe that hasn't modified that thick end near the head. The lower part I completely agree with you on, and have mine shaved off like you were talking about. It's normal. I've modified nearly every axe handle I've ever purchased in some way shape or form to suit me, the user. I love your video's tho, on the practical side. So keep up the good work!
That's generally my opinion yeah, but they have very high quality handles and a reputation for good fitting. cost is relative too. To some people, what is a lot to me is nothing. I'll sit and work on an axe for two hours, but other people can make 50.00 an hour and dont' know how to work on anything. Best case scenario to me is more sweat equity ends up yielding more experience and knowledge applying a skillset required to be a competent axeman anyway, like handle fitting and shaping, filing and reshaping and sharpening. An argument could be made to buy a gransfors over this axe though which is somewhat contextual.
Only guessing here but, I would also put money on the fact if you cut the fat area of below the head the vibration will be greater . but your going to find out . Happy Trails
Greetings Steven! NOT lame; very interesting discussion on the handle. IMHO, cut your chamfer under the ears; it creates a stress-riser otherwise. I wonder if that odd (normal) handle shape is more about manufacturing producibility than axe efficacy. Why is that nipple or raised heel area even there? Maybe the 'thick handle syndrome' is another marketing ploy? "Let's buy the one with the thicker handle, shouldn't it last longer?" - crap. Interested to see your final product.
Oh yeah, I meant the handle was kind of lame but has potential. I don't know why that heel is there. I just know it's not necessary. it might be left over from production design somehow. Not sure. It's history though. I think that a better handle for this even aside from excessive thickness) should be reproducable. I don't see why not. Other manufacturers do it. Still, the ears may present some problem if they are not expanded to a larger radius inside. it seems as though a combination of the right drift for shaping the eye and the right handle pattern could at least get a better fit. On this one it is very obvious that the ears have bottomed out and the rest of the head is not seated as fully. I think most people not familiar with more traditional handle thickness would tend to think the thick handle is a boon. it seems intuitively correct. it may be more durable, but I'm on the fence on that. I think either extreme if taken too far would end up courting breakage.
With your skills you will make it fit properly. To me red flags were sticks (handles) that didn't fit the hole provided. :) Sorry I misunderstood your header. You're smart, you can figure that out.
I don't have any experience with Husqvarna, or any axe manufacturer... but with the limited experience I do have in the manufacturing industry, I can say that modern manufacturers do NOT make the components of their product. Like, GM doesn't make windshield glass, Ford doesn't make window motors, Stihl doesn't make Chainsaw chains, and Dell doesn't make Mainboards or keyboards..etc. etc. Husqvarna doesn't grow trees or make handles. Modern manufacturing is "assembly" of products from factories whom they buy from (or sometimes own as a parent company). GM buys window motors from an electric motor manufacturer, glass from a glass manufacturer, etc. In the case of GM/FORD, the parts are made to meet their spec's (OEM spec) because of the volume they purchase and prepurchase. I have a feeling that someone at Husqvarna just matched up the picture/spec of the handle from a database/catalog with the axe head from their head manufacturer. Maybe the heads are made to spec, but I'd be utterly shocked if the handles were made per Husqvarna's spec, it just doesn't make sense financially or logistically.
I know more now. The axe is made by Hultafors They are a huge manufacture of tools. I think it is one of their models re-branded, because all of the husqvarna axe line appear in their catalog as Hutls Bruks models. As to the handles, who knows, but I think they are probably designed for their axe heads specifically.
Awesome video but those little axes 🪓 are more or less hatchet s with a long handle. There not made to process cords and cords of wood at once. There camp/ bushcraft axes. Get a big boy tool 👍. Great video though, I appreciate your content.
As I've said in many videos, these are not great at anything, except being a reasonable compromise for someting light to carry that can still do a significant amount of work. they are what they are. Context is king.
I've bought several Husqvarna axes in the last few years and can't get over how thick they are. Way too thick for my taste. I like thick women not thick axe handles.
so you took one of the best axes you can buy, and you didn't like it, so therefore it's terrible and they don't know how to make axe handles? i'm thinking your preference is just dainty handles, i've been using my husqvarna carpenters axe for years, only thing i've done with it is give it a nicer edge, everyone that lays there hand on my axe falls in love with it. except the guys with granfors brucks, but they all say my axe is very similar to theirs
How do you define "one of the best axes you can buy? Apparently not the same as I do. It has potential, but it just needs a lot of work. BTW, There are many instances of this axe breaking right across the bit. Is that still one of the best axes you can buy? That is a very rare problem in axes.
The problem with the axe bullshit is that all these idiots that go camping once or twice a year in an RV look online and buy some 200 dollar axe thinking it's some super axe. You should buy axes to be able to fit yourself. If I'm buying a 200 dollar axe it better be customed built to fit exactly what I want. Otherwise imo you buy one of those crazy expensive axes your not using it your buying a handle art. I would buy a cheap axe to modify myself any day
Skillcult. I'm still calling u Skillcult. Way more epic than Steven. My wife and kids know "Skillcult". Love ur channel. Started my 42 tree orchard in 2009 watching Steven Hayes (which you've mentioned) - see?...way too many Stevens. Carry on Skillz. Great stuff u do!
As for radiusing the inside edge of the eye. It should be an improvement. The british built some air plane with square window openings, they failed they developed cracks radiating out from the corners due to the exspansion and contraction of the air frame and they cause the planes to fail. And your correct that square edge will cause the handle to weaken and brake. Actual I just had one do exactly that. Another tool you might study is a vauhn frameing hammer. The head is unique in design as it puts the weight of the head in a position that generates more striking force with less weight than many other designs and also reduces the torque twisting to your hand and wrist. Estwing make a hammer that is terrible in that it has a flat thin steel handle and a very heavy on the claw portion of the head. The best design of axe head I have ever used in the norlund because it is also balance with more weight out on the end of the swing path. And for kindleing the face is oriented in line with the path of your swing. Have a nice day.
I expect it to need work, like almost any axe, but not much excuse for designing a poor fit between the handle and the head in the first place. With some modification, it could be much better, with no more labor on their part. I'm not sure why anyone would think that objection is not justifiable.
I appreciate what you are doing. We Americans are just rediscovering what goes into a good axe and you are adding to the discussion instead of parroting. Especially about thin handles.
Thanks!
Hey Steven,
I'm the dude that had a brain tumor that commented on your tan oak leaves toxicity video. Good news: I'm healthy and don't have a brain tumor. More good news: you've inspired me to get more into self sufficiency. I bought an old axe head and restored it and put an axe handle on it and felled (correct term?) my first tree. Later today, i'll be processing the timber and putting it away to dry.
Just wanted to send you some sincere appreciation. Thank you Steven Edholm!
Awesome! Sounds like you have a new lease and are running with it. Be safe. I'll try to do some videos on axe use and safety stuff sooner than later. You can put yourself right back in the hospital wth that thing! In the meantime, I put a playlist together of axe videos that I think are worth watching. Some are instructional and some just show what is possible. th-cam.com/play/PL60FnyEY-eJAjiKUOnydf1R36Dtm-2E6c.html
Toxic oak leaves??? Please do tell! Thanks.
@@SkillCult you still have the gransfors bruks ? or is already sold?
@@SkillCult In general how do you rate Gransfors Bruk? DO they need mods?
@@BOOSTEDLASER I’m not him but really not very many people I would call axe masters think they are worth all that money. For example he will make this husky axe just as good for less than half the price. The husky axe is pretty much clone-ish of the gransfors already. They just have more love put in before they leave the factory. The husky axe is made by hultafors which is an equivalent forge in the same place, sweden. Been at it since 1671 or something like that
Very helpful, you answered a ton of questions and opened up new ones I hadn't considered.
When I started learning as much as I could about guns it was channels like these that accelerated my understanding faster than anything else.
It's just short of taking a class in person from them on the topic.
Great work, thank you so much.
Man. Glad this vid/channel exists.
:)
Damn I love it when people get their physics explanations right, well done (13 min). Very objective and helpful review, I like your style.
Yes sir, I think your spot on with the reworking of the inside of the ax head. Smoothing edges and sort of coning the inside for a better fit. At least at the entrance.
I got this axe, so I'm finding what you have to say really interesting. I don't use axes enough to have a deep understanding, or need for a more refined tool, but it is fun to think about.
I haven't used them enough to have a deep understanding either, but I'm working on it :) Many people are casual users and there may be a legitimate argument for a less refined and more robust handle, but this has gone to silly extremes. At the very least the area under the eye has to come way down to be useable as a multipurpose axe, but other refinements and putting it together better will mostly just result in a better axe all around and a better user experience I think. You could also get a car with no shocks and an uncomfortable seat and a huge fat steering wheel, just because you probably won't drive it very much. But then you sort of can't if you want to or need to, and the user experience won't be very pleasant.
SkillCult
5:00 Axe pun? lol
I was just gonna buy an HB akka but after watching your videos I'm considering buying a council or Husqvarna and modding it. My fine carving skills aren't great so it'd be a good project for me
I saw your video on staves, haven't seen any about staves to handles, will keep looking. Thanks for
Sharing your knowledge
I don't have that video yet.
I couldn't agree with you more. I have bought in Greece the exact same axe two years ago (I know that Wetterlings manufactured the head for Hysqvarna). I dont know the manufacturer for the handle though.The fist handle broke, so I paid for a new one(the replacement was EXPENSIVE!). I thinned the belly and the back like you commented, I hang it myself (Thank you you tube!) and treated it with linseed oil. No problems since.I might do the extra mods to the throat. Thank you for sharing so useful videos with us. Keep up the good work.
Hi Chiosmet. I think this particular axe is actually made by hultafors now and they have a similar or identical model, but I've heard that wetterlings made some of the husqvarna axes too. This one is very smooth, obviously pressed in a die after forging to make it more uniform, if it's forged much at all. I think the wetterlings ones would probably be a little less finished looking.
Thats right.I also have a Wetterlings "Husqvarna " splitting hatchet. It has the Wetterlings stamp on the head (s.a.w Wetterlings ) and a "Hand Forged" stamp as well.I modded this one replacing the small hatchet husqvarna handle with a multipurpose Husqvarna axe handle because the hatchet head had the same weight and size of the multipurpose husqvarna axe(Food for 'thought'' to your video of the Husqvarna hatchet presentation).That mod made it my primary go to axe.It rocks!!
I would very likely do something like that with my husqvarna hatchet, but the head is pretty crooked. Maybe I'll take the head off and weigh it along with the axe.
I'd love to see it on video.It would be an interesting project for a useful mod of a poorly ergonomics designed quality axe and a way to transform it to real world useful tool. I' ll stay tuned..
the old time Finns made hafts with the outside annular rings at the rear and the centre (closer) grain on the front of the haft. They had a practice of debarking a strip of bark on one side of the tree and leaving it to heal over time, this resulted in very tight growth rings forming where the wound was...this would make the front of the haft, I imagine it is much harder.
Interesting. If I had to guess I probably would have said the opposite orientation would be stronger, but really only with the growth rings left intact. Bowstaves were "farmed" like that in the great basin. One would be split from a live tree and when it healed over, the two sides of the split would yield bowstaves.
Yes, the English Longbow was made from Yew Staves and the heartwood was to the front of the bow. I will research axe haft grain orientation further and also find the original article I had.
I'd love to hear about whatever you come up with.
Thanks for this video series. I have this axe and am now looking at it with different eyes. Can't wait to see the next ones. I also recently purchased a Council Tool boy's axe. Much thinner handle. I know you won't like the huge aluminum wedge they use but it might be a great axe to review next. Very similar in size to Husqvarna but with a slightly heavier head and longer handle.
I'm very interested in the council boys axe. There are actually three versions, the basic boys axe, the forest service spec version from Omaha Knife ( omahaknife.com/index.php?id_category=26&controller=category ) and the velvicut bad axe version. I want to get every affordable axe in that class actually and test them all this year, but I have to figure out funding. I might do a crowd funding thing to do that. I liked the handle thickness on the council "camp axe" hatchet okay, though it's too short. The aluminum wedge shouldn't be that hard to remove. I just think it's a mistake in terms of longevity and future tightening of the handle with cross wedges when it loosens up. then again, it's easier to remove than a wooden wedge if needed.
There is a fire axe hanging on the firehouse wall in a ghost town museum called Nevada City in Montana. The axe probably dates to 1890 at most. I climbed the barricade/cordoning off banister just so I could grab the handle. It was a nice straight, tight midline grain and THE SLIMMEST handle I have ever grabbed. I have tiny hands. Like a toddler's, and I could wrap my fingers around it no problem. It felt as if I could swing it all day and my hands would just feel rested.
And just think most fore axes I've seen hung and swung have ben anywhere from 5ish lbs all the way up to 8 and half and almost 9 lbs and those old thin handles didnt break smashing them big heavy fire axes thru doors walls and roofs...in all sorts of wild weather from extreme heat and fire to extreme cold and water and ice
I have the smaller hatchet and it came with a terrible grind on it but I spent a few hours with a file and cleaned it up best I could and it cuts atleast...
It seems to be pretty common for Swedish axes to have thick handles, at least all the models that I've seen from GB and Wetterlings, same with the eyes, much bigger than American axes. Would it be possible that it's a hold over from before Hickory was commonly used on Swedish axes?
I have the FSS Spec Boy's axe from Council Tool and also the Hudson bay and both have properly thin handles that I haven't felt the need to thin down at all, both very comfortable.
Interesting idea. I suppose that is possible. What would they have used, birch maybe? I'm thinking about getting the FSS boys axe.
The European go to axe handle wood is usually ash. I have heard of birch being used on Billnäs type Finnish axes, though.
PS: So it's Steve, huh? I'll try to remember that.
I need to watch some of those traditional finish and swedish videos and check out the axes and handle thickness. For the building and crafting axes I could see them leaving the handles a little thicker than might be ideal flex wise just to prioritize grip and control. I think there is a compromise there where at a certain point a handle is too thin to have good control. If you are basically swinging and essentially throwing the axe into a chopping cut when doing general wood processing you don't need the constant grip and control that might be needed for some hewing and carving. Just a thought.
The FSS CT Boys axe has been great so far but i haven't used it that much, only about 1/2 cord bucked / split so far.
re: the thick handles though, i actually have a 2.5lb axe made by Sater Banko in Sweden and the newest it could be is from the mid 60s and it has a much thinner handle than newer wetterlings / gb.
I need an axe to recommend to people for a firewood axe to learn on that isn't too far from functional out of the box, and the CT boys axes seem like one of the best bets. Also the Snow and Neally boys axe. I'd like to get them all and test them. What is the bit like on the FSS CT out of the box? Is it thin or fat, hollow behind the bit, or fat or straight sided or other?
I bought the Husqvarna 26" Multi-Purpose Axe after watching your video about buying a status symbol to impress. I was considering getting a GB or HB axe, and quickly realized while watching that I was considering buying those high-quality Swedish axes because they were such high-quality items, but also because of the name recognition. Your advice to buy something cheap that you won't mind tearing up as a beginner is sound, and I have followed it.
I must say that I got it at a very low price (Labor Day coupon), then when I revisited the site, it had already increased by $20 above the original asking price. Go figure.
Great intelligent discussion.. thanks mate ✅
Oh when they cut those they do-do so on a lathe it's probably not cnc but cut a similar way that a Cam shaft is done.
They have a pattern and the handle billet they spin at the same rate geared together while a carbide cutter is traveling on a rack like on a machine lathe for when they're cutting threads or just using the half nut to auto cut your passes, except with a cam they're using a grinding wheel. Anyway it uses a stylus to trace the pattern so that whatever your cutter is it lifts up and down as it traces the profile as both the billet and pattern spin; whilst the cutter carriage travels down the rack.
I know that is the old way. I figured there might be new technology at the bigger outfits. There's some cool vids of house handle using one of those on YT. dont' buy their handles though...
I'm a home owner with a few 4 to 6 inch diameter trees to take out. With no alteration is the a good chopping axe for me to buy.
Not really. A better home utility axe is the boy's axe size. The budget line council tool boy's axe is a good affordable option and much cheaper as well. This is a little undersized. it's really a compromise axe for packing more than anything else. th-cam.com/video/885pvnfMAY8/w-d-xo.html
Great discussion of tool geometry. It's often hard to anticipate what's wrong with a tool before you have lived with it for a long time.
Also, as a man of strong opinions, tell us about your coffee preferences! I wonder what you might say on that subject, though it's a little off topic for the channel. But I would love to hear about it.
short version on coffee is I've been through about 9 or 10 different coffees looking for a decent light or medium roast. Dark roast, as Americans drink it, is basically burnt and the flavor is usually pretty burned out, but light and mediums suffer from acidity. Once in a while you get a good one that is smooth and still has aromatics left, but they seem to be not only rare, but inconsistent. The same roast from the same place will be great one time and sour the next. I've tried roasting my own with mixed results. I'm not sure it's possible to make a consistently great light roast, but I think it would be quite the rabbit hole to go down to try. I'm tempted though :)
that's 9 or 10 different roasts in the past 3 or 4 weeks!
Answer is to roast your own. Yes it is a rabbit hole. But a tasty one. Sweetmarias.com.
@@SkillCult Gevalia is pretty good amd Dunkin Donuts believe it or not lol, to me the most crucial part is the ratio of coffee and water. I use a 1/3 measuring cup get a full scoop, then use my finger to slightly remove a shallow concave depression in the scoop. That with 12 cups of water makes a badass cup of joe. I know I'm late to the conversation, but I have been complimented on my coffee many times. Lol, take it for what it's worth.
I may not agree with all of your criticism, but man, it's nice to hear someone actually giving a product constructive criticism. It seems that all the "gear reviewers" on TH-cam just love everything about anything.
Yeah, the lovefest thing bugs me. A lot of reviews are just to sell product, but even when not, there just seems to be a lack of real consideration and detail. Almost every axe needs some modification or tuning up.
lovefest is more a say nice things and will recieve freebeeas,
On the subject of axe 'ears'.
I have had several axes over the years where some misguided person has beaten the ears hard down into the haft, presumably in attempt to tighten the grip on it. these are impossible to re-hang until the ears have been put right. Even on an axe with differential hardening/tempering [ie hard edge and soft body], you do need to do this hot. I generally have managed this with localised heating from an oxy torch, with the rest of the body being wrapped in wet cloth.
I agree with you that the slope angle of the ears should be equal to, or slightly greater than the slope in the body of the head. A pain in the ass to do this, but it has saved some nice axes.
“Old People from Old times we’re just really dumb”. Loved it!
Like any others I bought mine on amazon and its seated much better than yours with almost no gaps. I agree though that the handle is too thick next to the head making it difficult to do any work while choking up on the axe. I've had the axe for a few years without any issues until my friend misused it and the handle actually cracked right under the head. It seems to be fine still, but I will most likely try to replace it. Good thing I found your videos!
Glad to hear you got a good one. I would not have bought 2 out of the three I've looked at in person. I'm not sure how tight they were, but they were all mounted very high like this one
Nice to meet you Steven. Thank you for your observations. Nice information
Thanks. and thanks for all your nice comments :)
Steven the Compliments are well deserved. you have taken time out of your busy life to show others how to become more skilled, that is priceless and appreciated greatly - i only hand out compliments if they are well deserved @@SkillCult and you have made the cut! stay humble real and giving... and you will go far at making the world just a little bit easier and a better place to live. Mahalo(thank you) and Aloha Steven
Hey Steven, Will you ever have hands on axe handle craft classes?
Doubtful. I'm not the person best to do that anyway probably. At this point I'd say I know more about what I don't like than what I do. I may do hands on classes again someday, but this is keeping me pretty busy!
I know what you mean as far as the handle goes, I got a great Dayton or jersey style 4lb felling axe, and the handle is thinner than most store bought hatchets, and that thing just whips.
eggzackly. Such a better experience to use a lively handle. You can look on ebay at older axes with original handles, most are larger like that and they typically have pretty thin handles relative to new stuff.
Regarding cylinders and fit, your absolutely right. Same principle applies to automotive valves. They are designed to seal on the lip of the mating surface across a very small cross section. This is so maximum *pressure* can be applied on the seal by the springs, resulting in a better seal. Small mating surface area, enormous pressure. Were it a larger mating surface (i.e., axe: smoothing out the ears for a more gradual flush mount), pressure and impact stresses are distributed more evenly. Your seal will be inherently weaker, but we are not dealing with manifolds and exhaust gasses under pressure, we are dealing with a wooden axe handle. Smoothing out the contact area to mate in a more distributed way with the head will result in an overall better fit. The flexibility of the wood fibers and the forces of the wedge pushing them into the eye will more than make up for a larger contact area - it is much better suited for this application.
I hope that made sense.. lol
Yeah, lol.
Have you seen the feedback on this Axe on AMAZON, the 26" Axe heads snap off a lot. Is that true?
I don't know, I've seen those too.
Given that tapering the inside of the lug will increase the total contact surface area available, not including all the other area the handle will come into contact with now that it fits tighter, it should be a superior solution over shaping the handle to fit the lug.
Hopefully that makes sense, i didn't want to type a huge paragraph trying to explain if it's already understandable.
Yeah, I get it and I think it's a legit idea, but it isn't a big change. I only took off maybe a little over 1/32 and back about 5/16 inch into the head. I could go deeper in the head I guess, but not in this case since the handle doesn't really fit well. that's one of the few areas where there even is contact.
That is absolutely brilliant. Thanks man. ps: the edge on Husqvarna axes has a machine grind from the factory, so you can do yourself a great favor by grinding it and finetuning the blade into razor sharp.
Yeah, I know the cheeks need work. I'll get to that eventually.
Ah man, this is so daunting. I just need an axe for when I go camping without all the hassle of hanging/carving the handle. I don't mind sharpening, I don't that anyway. Will the cold steel trail boss/hultafors Amy or gransfors forest axe be better buys for me, ie no modifications needed? I like that the husq is cheaper, but I'm willing to spend on a life long pass me down especially if it's ready to go. Please advise.
Not really. It doesn't work that way. Very few axes come ready to go and then they get dull or damaged at some point and require restoration. Axemanship includes the skills and tools to maintain and set them up as well.
@@SkillCult thanks for taking the time to reply. I'vw nearly finished your playlist on this axe and I feel like I would give it all a shot once I've used it a little. Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Hi Steve...did you manage to open my link below?
Yes, thank you. I thought I answered this, but just realized that's because I left a comment on the blog post. Very interesting article. totally different than the handle paradigm here. Makes me want to experiment. Look at this one. th-cam.com/video/y78U55kBv5Y/w-d-xo.html
I would just leave the head on the handle until the handle needs replacement. If the head even keeps coming loose then that would be another thing. I agree that a lot can be done with the handle but the nice thing is that this is not by any means an expensive axe. On the other hand Hultafors has pretty much an identical axe for the same price or slightly less so I'd be interested on your thoughts comparing the two. Thanks for the video.
It was too loose to not do something, though I didnb't have to take it all the way off, it gave me some info. This is made by hultafors, same axe, just less finished and a different stamp.
Very heavy handle for such a light head, most new axes come that way, I shave mine thin. Nice touch in tapering the bottom of the eye, wedged at the bottom and at the top. The lip of wood from the sharp bottom of the eye is a great starting place for shear to take hold. I have a pet peeve...... those useless lanyard holes or nail hanging hole...... Why do they put a hole in the handle?
They don't bother me unless they are in a bad place or modifying the knob. They work for putting a toggle in for a carry strap. Otherwise not much use for them. I never have anything dangling in there. That seems way too dangerous to me.
I can't help but see the relish between the hole and the end of the handle being knocked loose when setting the head. but that doesn't happen much, only another possibility. The physics is there but the striking device is not concentrated on the exact place.
I know what you mean, but I haven't seen it happen ever so far.
How do you feel about the label on the handle saying it’s not for slamming in wedges? I know your not a chainsaw guy but I purchased this axe with the intention of having that capability. Do you feel it’s due to the design or the rushed fit that makes it not suitable for hammering in on the back side.
That sounds weird. They probably mean metal wood splitting wedges, which of course you shouldn't hit with any axe. I wouldn't hesitate to drive wedges with it. The eye is quite large, so it should even hold up to a fair amount of abuse.
I kind of want to buy this axe because of the price but seeing the many negative reviews on Amazon regarding the bit cracking off of the head and all of the work required to make this axe work, I'd rather just buy the handle and axehead separate and put it together myself. I don't have the tools to work with this but I have more confidence in my labor than Husqvarna...
I love this channel. good information. my old man neighbor passed recently, I scored an old craftsman double bit of his and a really nice thin replacement handle. I couldn't believe the perfect grain and straightness. they don't make them the way they use to.. that's my ramble.
Score!
I've heard wide growth rings have more spring to them, particularly for Ash.
that's what Mr. Baker said. I should have pointed out that I don't think it matters that much either way as long as the wood is solid. Most handle breakage is still user error.
I think that head is made by hultafors, and is the same one on my 19" axe by them. It's handle is too beefy too, especially near the head.
I try to round the inner edges of the bottom of the eye as well. I feel it steps/slides onto the handle tighter, and avoids breaking the fibers of the handle which would do nothing to help grip.
Makes sense to me to round the bottom edge. I've done if for a long time, so it works. I can't see any good reason to leave it sharp. I'm sure this one is made by Hultafors too.
If you haven't already check out the book "The Man Who Made Things From Trees". The title is a little misleading, but it's a great story. The Welsh author has an ash tree felled and brings the wood to different craftsmen all over to make as many things out of it as possible. There's quite a few gems of info. from them as they make everything from tent pegs to wagon wheels out of it. There seemed to be a preference for wider grain, depending on what was being made. It was a good read at the least, written by someone who has a reverence for the material, although he himself is not a craftsman. It was great spending so much time on just a single type of wood too. It got me thinking about doing that for each my native woods, just spend a few weeks researching and working only alder for instance, then move onto another. Lately I've been really intrigued by ocean spray, I'm finding all kinds of uses for it.
Haven't heard of it. I'll see if I can get it through my library. Ocean spray is cool stuff. It makes great arrows when you can find good shafts. Probably the best shaft material right here, though it doesn't grow as straight and clean like in the N.W. the stuff is hard.
Great knowledgeable review. No brand worship which is very refreshing. Subscribed!!!!
Dude I just bought a $15 county line axe at tractor Supply it's got potential but yeah things a pilus suck right now
thoughts on double or single bit? it seems like a lot of extra weight to use a double bit, but i've seen so many both old and new that it makes me wonder if there is any advantage besides having to sharpen half as often?
usually one bit is sharpened more blunt for rough and dirty work. The main advantage though is balance being symetrical. Single bit axes suffer from balance problems making the double bit better, especially when the axe is swung in a horizontal plane. They are more dangerous though and no poll for beating on stuff. I actually don't have a lot of chopping experience with double bits. I have a cool 2.5 pound head I want to get a handle on and use some this year. I like having a poll though.
Enjoying your videos and the blog. I'm wondering about your thoughts on the advantages of purchasing a new Scandi axe like this vs finding an older american head and rehanging? I personally cannot justify the price (especially Gransfors) when there are serviceable heads all over the country at fleas, garage/barn sales, and even sometimes ebay? Is it the size of these compromise/all around axes?
I'd rather see most people go with used stuff. It's a good opportunity to learn about putting handles on and it's cheaper. Unless you need something close to out of the box, see what you can find. Not sure about finding good handles, but there are a couple places that look promising and not too expensive. The weight of these is going to be around 2 pounds or less. It's enough to get by and not horrible to carry. They don't cut with authority though. If you watch the video before this you'll see that I'm putting a lot of snap into the swing to get it to cut reasonably deep. That's just how it is. 2 lb heads are not uncommon and you can do some modification that will reduce the weight. I haven't tested the idea, but I think taking a two pound head and filing a notch out of the bottom to give it closer to this shape will take a little bit of weight off and improve the balance a bit hopefully. In fact I plan to do just that with a 2 lb head when I'm done with this project and see which I'll end up favoring. Screw the Gransfors, way too expensive. They have excellent handle quality and hang, but that's not enough given the price. Or, you can go with a boys axe. I just got the council 2.25 lb 28 inch boys axe today from Amazon for under 40.00 shipped. The handle looks plenty good and reasonably close to what I think it should be thickness wise. It seems like it has potential but will need filing out of the box to be at all useable. If you get a 5.00 head and haft your own though you'll learn more and get off a whole lot cheaper than that.
here's the council boy's axe. 36.80 shipped: amzn.to/2g9n6ps
Thanks for the great reply. I've heard good things about council tool. I have so many garage sale heads just piled up that I will most likely never hang, that I can't justify buying any new axe I don't think. I am intrigued by your cordwood challenge, and may enter. We heat with wood and I love axes. I have done a fair bit of hewing for homestead timberframing, but very little felling or bucking beyond limbing before sawing up. What weight head do you consider ideal for bucking firewood? Don't these "forest axes" seem a bit light for so much chopping?
These are absolutely light for processing firewood. I'm still figuring out what weight is ideal for me, but I'd recommend starting with 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 pounds i think on a 28 to 30 inch handle. I think it depends on style and experience. I like to buck standing close up over the log, so a long handle is a hinderance there. Even 30 felt a little long to me, but that is really mostly due to my bucking style. I'm not sure if other people do it the same, but I like it. It's also easier to be accurate with a shorter handle, though it can be argued that it's less safe. You can swing a 2.5 lb axe all day too.
Definitely go with hanging your own. I wish I'd collected more over the years. I could have had a hundred pounds of good axes. The cordwood challenge will make you better really fast. If you're already decent with swinging tools and familiar with basic strategy and axe function you should be able to do it fine if you have the time and the wood. You can always just do a 1/4 cord, but I'll bet when you finish that you'll want to keep going :) People starting out completely new to axes are another thing. I think a warm up year is in order for most of them.
I did some research on axe handle sources looking around the net for recommendations. Here are my notes.
HOUSE HANDLE: cheap, mixed reviews, might be best to call and order on the phone to be sure they pick something good. Uses a tan type of hickory sometimes of unknown species? Can have them pick hand selected handles without varnish and also octagon option. www.househandle.com/products.html#house
BEAVER TOOTH. More expensive than house handle and most models are out of stock. also as hickory handle store on ebay, but not much choice. stores.ebay.com/Hickory-Handle-Store
Omaha knife company looks promising. All are graded and first choice grade is 16.00. www.omahaknife.com/axe.htm
Let me know how it goes! There's plenty on hanging axes on youtube, though less on tuning handles, but I'll be talking about that a bit even though it's a work in progress for me as well.
I can get decent handles from two local hardware stores mostly if I check and pick through them, have several handles laying around that I bought when I liked the grain. My favorite axe has a mediocre handle on it by the standards of the modern axe enthusiast, hickory heartwood without perfectly perpendicular grain, although it runs straight through. I'm not super convinced about the necessity of avoiding such things.
I've also been experimenting with making my own. I have had very bad luck with axe handles from my own white ash, they don't have the strength and shear off right at the eye after very little normal use. I have a few ash hatchet handles going strong. I am now using black locust and it seems to hold up so far. There is a lot of shagbark hickory locally abundant but none on my farm. I prefer to use my own wood because it pleases me, but if I saw someone knocking down a hickory I would try to grab some.
I can't wait to see what you do. I have a wetterlings #118. Its the wetterlings equivalent of the gb small forest axe. I really prefer the wetterlings head design because it has a thicker wedge profile that splits much better than the small forest axe which tends to penetrate deeply without opening up the grain. But the handle of the gransfors is much nicer than the wetterlings. The wetterlings handle suffers from the same issues as your husky axe, especially the swell at the butt end. I had heard that wetterlings was making these for husky so this could explain the similarities. My plan was to make these same mods that you are proposing. I'll try it, see how I like it, then if I'm not satisfied, I have a spare small forest axe handle that I'll swap it out for. The eyes seem close enough in size that I'm confident it'll work.
I agree totally especially the thickness of the collar, Huqsvarna is known for that.....I had to completely reshape my Huqsvarna 19" carpenters axe
Really good vid. I've often thought about radiusing the leading edge of the 'wing'. I've never liked seeing shavings from the head cutting the handle. I've thought it's better to have the wood fibers 'ending' under the radiused edge instead of being sheared. Those sheared fibers contributing to spliting?
But I enjoy the detail you go into.
I've thought about doing it more extremely, like with a much larger radius, so that the handle has a little space to "work" and move under the edge of the eye without getting damaged at all.
The idea of pushing the head 1/2 inch down seems really smart, i'd do it on my axe, but honestly i've had it for a year and it worked fine for me and when i do break the handle, i might order a handle from gransfors/wetterlings. On that note, how do the size of eye of the Husqvarna and gransfors compare in size? Could you fit a scandinavian forest ax handle on the husqvarna axe?
I just got back from the woods using my Husqy axe and holy crap, I couldn't agree more about the hook at the end of the handle, even when i was cutting a smaller spruce I genuinely thought the axe was gonna slip out of my hand when i was holding it in a less that squeezing hard manner.
Yeah, when I spotted that I knew it was ramped up funny, though I didn't think it would be as bad as it is. I started out with soft hands, but it gave me a blood blister really fast. Just a little change in the shape would improve it, but I think I like the more hooked shape best. No matter what after a good amount of time, it is a area of high stress on the hands, at least for me, but it can be better or worser. I'll measure the two axe eyes for you later today, but you should make your own handle, nudge, nudge... ;)
It looks very close, but it's actually hard to measure with the handle protrusion. It seems like a gamble since these are made to go on specific heads. If anything the gransfors might be a little longer, but narrower, but I can't be sure without cutting it flush.
Just finished listening to Mors Kochanski talk about axes and he says in fewer words the same thing about the Gransfors. Its popular because of Ray Mears and its too thick.
So between these two axes (the GFB and the H), which would you prefer, including cost and time/labor spent getting them up to your standard?
If it were a good example of both, cost not an issue, probably the GB. It would need less work. Much better handle design and hafting quality. Still too fat, but that is easy to fix. With this one it's a matter of a poor fit and poor design that takes more than some scraping to remedy in my case at least. I just sold my GB, but it was really crooked. This will be a fine replacement I think once I'm done with it. It may still be a hair longer too.
I've actually encountered a few comments lately about the handles on the CT Velvicut line being too thin. Apparently the ones over 24" are actually properly thinned out, but unfortunately users aren't used to seeing a proper axe handle. The other issue I see is the thinner handle is appreciated most when chopping. Since a lot of users only use an axe to split and limb I think a many will never appreciate the difference. I'm glade I'm not the only one who thinks Gransfors handles are too thick. I was surprised when I got my Small Forest Axe since I'd only seen and used their hatchets up too that point. The handle to me is surprisingly thick and rigid. The eye is almost the size of one from a full sized American axe. Since they use American Hickory for the handles I'm not sure why the eye is so large and handle so thick. They should be taking advantage of the Hickory's properties. The following day after using it my wrist hurts. Even after just a short time in use it beats up my wrist a surprising amount. Yesterday I used a couple of axes with handles that I personally shaped and hung and today my wrist feels fine, my hands are a different story but they need the workout ;-)
It bothers me that the Swedish manufacturers flatten the palm swell. Ideally I perfer the swell to flare out in all directions. On my Gransfors, and from what I can tell your HB in the video the swell is not only flat on the sides, but thinner than the shoulder. This tells me that they wasted the material that could have otherwise produced a better palm swell. My guess is that they did this so they could drill the silly lanyard hole that honestly I wish wasn't present.
Yes, the standard has shifted. It reminds me of this doctor that called a lab to inquire why they changed the normal testosterone level to a lower number and they said because testosterone levels have dropped in the populace, so the higher number was no longer normal! Yes, that is really how tests are measured and interpreted. I wish I had talked about the grey area of handle thickness. I think there is a zone where handles can be okay and more durable, and good for learning or novice choppers, but this handle is not that at all. Cook talks about how the thinnest handles require care to use. And I think you are right on both the use and especially to me the amount of use axes are getting. Also, it might just be perceived as normal soreness. I was seriously shocked at the gransfors thickness and have thought long and hard about other reasons that they would be so thick. I'm pretty sure it's just overbuilding though.
I don't have a lot of opinion on the hand swell, but your point is interesting. I really just want the thing that causes the least pain and blistering! I like a lanyard hole (not for a lanyard, which I think it dangerous and unnecessary) because you can slip a toggle into it for a simple carry strap, but I don't like where they put it on either axe and would rather put it on myself. It is especially annoying on the gransfors. I would probably gain nearly a full inch in length by re-carving the handle if it were not there and I definitely want that extra inch. If I was planning to keep it, I'd figure out a way to fill it in and do that. I may end up doing that with the husqvarna, though hopefully I won't have to. I think I can effectively gain a half inch on it. The palm swell is actually wider than the shoulder by about 1/8 inch. I'm guessing that was the limiting dimension of the handle stock.
I ran across the most interesting reference to an axe called the Aroostook wedge. It was in a youths encyclopedia of knowledge or something like that. In general, the passage sounds legitimate, but recommends the best all purpose axe to be a wedge shape with perfectly straight sides from edge to poll. Presumably it originated from Aroostook maine. This is similar to what dudley cook recommends and I've seen some other maine made axes with similar shape. The claim is that it is extremely efficient, throws chips and cuts deep without sticking. Every heard of it? There seems to be almost no information on the pattern. I found one old catalogue with a listing for it and those two references are it. Might have to fire up the forge and make one to try it!
As much as you talk about balance, leverage, economy of motion, etc you would love brazilian jiu jitsu.
I probably would. A couple friends are always bugging me to try it. I think I'm too old, too stiff and too busy though :)
Steven this was very enlightening, I’ve never heard someone really talk about what a proper axe handle should be like. Especially with all the “Viking” axe remakes on the market. All these curves and fat handles. How would one find out how thin one should be when modifying one.
Too many axe handles made on overbuilding or weird curvy looks with protrusions. I have a couple of videos on resilience factors in axe handles. Basically, the less flashy and figured the better is my conclusion.
SkillCult thanks man, appreciate your comment and videos, that’s the next video then cheers
Hey Steven, how does one get handle patina? I know use is one obviously, and oiling. but how do you get the character like dark blotches here and there and such? Can't wait for 2018 Axe cordwood challenge btw.
Dark blotches are usually pitch. Patina comes from use. It doesn't take long if tools are actually used a normal amount.
working on an axe cordwood challenge vid now!
Run a torch over the handle before oiling it. Check out Buckin Billy Ray Smith
I suppose the manufacturer understands that pros will tune their axe. A thick handle gives you options.
Steven, I’ve started rasping down my axes, thanks to you and have got most of them functional, or at least better than they were! My son in law gave me a couple of axe heads . The handles were very badly weathered on both. The handles looked like 40 year old hoe handles, If you know what I mean. One is a plum and the other is a Collins I think? It’s marked USM 3 1/2 near the poll . It has scallops. I hafted both of them. And profiled the plum. Looking forward to the rest of this project! I just picked up a new husqvarna forest.
Alright, fewer thick handles in the world! :). I'll try to finish out this project this year. They are relatively popular videos. I was thinking about rolling it all into one shorter vid with specific steps on how to pimp out this axe.
I know I’m one of those people who want to see you swing their axe! Can’t help it! I’m 72 and have used up both shoulders, to some degree,and can’t realistically swing the way you do! Man! That was hard to say! I’ll be watching all your videos.
My birthday is Monday and i found this axe for $50, my wife thinking about getting it for me. The main thing that throws me off about it is the atrocious grind I've seen in most reviews. Other than that, it seems like a good deal of an axe compared to other Swedish axes. Does it have polyurethane in it?
There is no filler in the head at all and it's not glued, so you can take the handle off if you need to to work on it. The grind is rough, but it's actually closer to useable than most. Any axe will need some work in that regard and it's not a big deal if you have a sharp file.If I have any complaint it's that there is not a lot to work with if you want something specific, but there is actually more to work with than on a gransfors as far as I've seen. Don't sweat that part. I think it can be a good axe if you take some time with it and think of it as a kit. Time modifying and refining it is time well spent.
Happy birthday :)
@@SkillCult thanks man, axe it is ☺
Having been so very dissapointed with store bought handles over here in the UK for a fantastic old elwell 2 3/4lb head thats been in the family for a few generations. Im lucky enough to be able to cut lovely straight grained ash and then reeve it down for handles - Im currently using v3.0 and even that is too thick in places (even though i have the somewhat damaged original handle to work from (28 inches and a sweet ovoid shape) Sadly my drawknife skills are lacking so far in the precission so its a tad rough/ugly in places.
loving the discussions and thoughts on how far from useable you and others are finding them too./
I used a 2-3/4 pound axe a lot last year for firewood processing and really liked it. You have a lot better handle wood there than I've got out here. I need to start distinguishing handle thickness and rigidity when talking about this stuff. They are interrelated, but not synonymous and there isn't a linear association. As +woodsman spirit pointed out, some woods are not as stiff as others, and there is density to consider as well.
what do you think of the estwing axes for minor projects and light splitting?
Haven't been a fan for a long time. The indestructable thing is nice, but they never seemed to chop well. My neighbor has the camp axe, so I might give it a whirl since it's been a really long time since I gave up on them.
as usually I love what happening here... I f made on a late, there shouldnt be a reason why these handles should not have the same superior lines and tapers as antique handles... had a kent pattern felling axe that had a fawns foot from heaven! the only explaination would be that they get away with inferior grain direction in the handles and cut down on cost that way... btw: having the small forrest axe, I think you got the scandinavian forest axe there... unless the size is so misleading on screen! cheers
Yes, you are right about the forest axe not being the small version. People always point out that these companies have been making axes for hundreds of years, but of course those people are all dead. It seems likely that decisions are now being made by people that aren't axe users. it's an easy market right now. Hopefully as the axe market becomes more sophisticated, and hopefully more experienced (cordwood challenge, hint hint) that will improve.
SkillCult absolutely man! I try to do my share about education, using an axe a lot as well... but in a different manner! I got some ideas for getting back into felling axes... which never played a big role for me... and the cwc is the perfect opportunity. chat soon Steven... btw: I love how you point out people as being dead or stupid... lol! blunt no-bs talk!
Interesting discussion of haft and head mods. On these axes I think the straighter haft is better and yes, they can be slimmed down considerably. Leverage dictates that the axe haft will shear close to the head, so the axe haft will not be stronger if it is left any thicker than where it enters the eye. Hickory is OK, but I the more I use axes the less I believe it is the best wood, certainly in cold climates it splits quite frequently and splinters causing injury to the hand. Also because of the density of Hickory it transmits more vibration. I have recently done a lot of re-hafting of axes and used Birch and Ash. I used Birch as is the custom, on my Finnish Billnas Axes. The mechanics of the Billnas if very differnt to the typical European or American Axe (check out the videos on my channel). I have made new hafts for the Billnas as per the original design, they are curved in a unique way and have a large knob on the end of the haft that enables the wood cutter to keep a more relaxed grip. the haft in the Billnas and Kellokoski Axes if very thick where the haft goes into the eye and very thin at the top of the axe head (in consideration of physics this is a good design). Also the blade profiles are very thick and wedge like ( this, again is quite contrary to Euro and US axes). The 'ears' on the Husqvarna and other axes I suspect might be a way to reduce the likelihood of breaking the haft if it is levered sideways as it would be more likely to break across a straight sharp edge as you mentioned. I look forward to your vids and would enjoy further discussion with you. All the Best, Chris
Great stuff Chris! I've spent a little time going over that great finish house building video (I'm sure you know that one) trying to get a look at the axes and handles, but the shots are so short and there is a lot of movement. From personal experience, I believe there is compromise between ability to grip the axe comfortably and tightly for a long period of time, thus allowing for control, and the flexibility that reduces handle shock. I'm particularly interested in that for hatchets and carpentry axes. With chopping axes for general forestry and wood processing, I think of chopping as throwing or propelling the axe, and I don't feel that is the same at all as making very controlled cuts as with carving, hewing or carving notches, so thin handles are fine all the way to the butt even, though I think it's nice to have a little meat at the grip still. I think there is obviously a lot of room for error and many tools that are not ideal are still useable, but there are also silly extremes like this handle which is a full inch thick at the center and has very, very little flexibility.
One analogy I've use before is that if you were to carve the end of a baseball bat and hang an axe on it, it becomes obvious where the axe is going to break. We've taken something that barely flexes and created a point where it bends easily, the weakest point. I think in this case that is about what we have. Once thinned more though I think it becomes more complicated. My tendency is to think that if you thin out the entire handle, then you've got something that is distributing stress along it's length, thus removing stress from any particularly vulnerable point. Along those lines of thinking, it may be best to leave the areas typically under the most stress (minus the eye size which is a fixed variable unless designing from scratch) a little bit heavier, but I'm on the fence about that still.
I've thought a lot over the years about what could possibly motivate Swedish axe manufacturers to make such thick handles, and the only reasonable sounding possibility I could come up with (besides over building for inexperienced users) with was cold weather, though it didn't seem enough. Maybe the faults of hickory that you mention, coupled with extreme low temps, has lead to these very thick handles. I've also wondered recently about using more flexible woods just to be able to retain thickness for grip, in for instance a short hatchet handle that I would like to keep thicker than ideal for flexibility in order not to sacrifice grippability. So I'm glad to see you have something to say about that. I'm just really starting to explore the native woods here, but I have somewhat limited options, a few species of oak basically and one of ash, though it is hard for me to get.
At to the geometry, what a mares nest that is. I've yet to see a good comprehensive discussion. It seems that people either are claiming to understand it but offer no analysis of other options, or it is so poorly explained and illustrated that it's difficult to understand exactly what they are saying. The more I read about it, the more questions I have. not only do I not understand it entirely, at this point I don't even have a good working preference. I've used quite a few different axes, but I have a lot more questions that answers, and I think most of us probably should! I was recently reading an old encyclopedia entry and the author recommended the perfect axe as a straight wedge for poll to edge known as the aroostook wedge (on which I can find almost no other information). His claim was that it is the most efficient axe design, cuts efficiently, throws chips and never sticks. Imagine that! If you have any good resources on axe geometry, it's a subject I'm increasingly interested in. I hope to test it somewhat intensively at some point. For now I'm collecting ideas and opinions, none of which, of course, I will actually accept :)
I started on a Hudsons Bay axe and learned to hate the design mostly because the eyes are so small that they come loose and break at the eye constantly. I figured that in the evolution of axes, the ears were a way to increase surface contact to basically keep the head on the handle, without having to use the large amount of metal required for say an american style axe with a large poll. All assuming this happened in an evolutionary sequence from wrapped eyes to polled axes, in which the hudson's bay axe is a link. I had heard somewhere that the ear prevents shearing as you describe and that makes sense too. Of course for an axe like this, the design is good for choking up when necessary. An American pattern axe can be modified for choking up by simply filing out the same space on the bit side of the eye, but it's an afterthought, and probably not easy to do if thinking from the perspective of manufacture.
I'll definitely check out your vids when I get some time. Nice talking with you.
Hi Steve
Check out my comments on Carbon Steel Love TH-cam Channel with regard to Council Tools Hudson Bay Axe’ head design; not a good design! My approach to haft making/ modifying is I use them for a while and if they are not comfortable or effective, I cut them off and make a new one! I have made a few straight hafts in the past, but haven’t had much luck with them, though ‘straighter’ might have worked better for me. I use axes frequently, unlike most You Tubers, so I only like to express my opinions based on my experience of an axe and my historical research. With regard to Finnish Axes I suspected they must be effective designs because, to use WW2 as an example, they were used to help save the economy, men women and children were expected to process wood and the government awarded ‘axe pins’ to acknowledge how much wood the citizens could cut. Most Finns were poor and often one axe would be all they had…so my thinking is, they had to be pretty good at both felling trees, limbing and splitting. Broken hafts would be seen as an inconvenience to say the least, so I believe that the design of the head and axe haft would have to be efficient and very mechanically durable. The Billnas and Kellokoski axes are, generally speaking, thick, straight-sided wedges (with some variation on grind angles, usually steep and cutting edge profile and ‘attack angle’). By attack angle I mean the degree which the cutting edge is in relationship to the centre line of the haft. Yes, I have some info on old Finnish and Russian/Siberian style axes (see my videos). Haft length interests me too, the Finns are rather heavy heads on rather short hafts…as are the Russian/Siberian. Some of the bushcraft community’ are now experimenting with shorter hafts and heavier heads, though most are terrified of owning an axe over 2lbs. The Russian/ Siberian axes tend to have a huge eye (typically triangulated) which I think has some benefits. I also have a few old English axes (not surprising since I am from England). I have lived in British Columbia, Canada for 11 years and currently have two rural properties, the new property is heavily forested so I have no shortage of opportunity to use axes to clear and process firewood (Aspen, Spruce, Birch and some smaller Maples). It is good to see your ‘vigorous chopping’ with the Husqvarna Axe, my pace is somewhat slower at the moment as I have had a few minor mishaps in the woods resulting in some ‘wear and tear’ on my body :)
Nice vid ! Really enjoy these axe vids.. BTW is that the small forest axe or the Scandi gba ?
It's the longer forest axe. Short one is too short for me.
I bet you get less energy return to hands when the hardwood has thicker rings. Spruce handles require dense rings.
I think you are probably right about that.
You had an acute lyme infection? How'd you treat it?
eventually with antibiotics, for years actually. I'm not convinced that we're ever rid of it, but that is a big old controversy. Either way, I consider it more a susceptibility issue than an infection. Infection is the simple way to look at it, but not very useful.
this guy is a maniac, I love it!
price of the gransfors 18 years ago?
Under 70.00 I think 60.00 something.
By the way, your Gransfors Bruk is not the Small Forest axe but the Scandinavian Forest Axe. The Small Forest Axe is only 19.5 inch handle. The Scandi is 25 inch handle.
Thanks. Yeah, I know that but I keep calling it that because it's small.
It's weird being an old guy and a mechanical engineer who literally grew up with axes .
All due respect - I don't see the importance of being able to grip around a handle behind an axe head . A hatchet used in fine work is a different story .
I wonder how many old timers still use a simple piece of tin can or thin copper on the edge side of the handle ... wrapped in "green" / untanned deer or rabbit skin which is wrapped around the metal . Applied wet and hot , it shrinks . Followed up with a wrapping of sisal or hemp twine and covered with hide glue or epoxy .
I like this video a lot and Thanks for making it . All the best .
handling I've noticed is not nearly as important to others as it is to me. I'd like to change that, but I think it's largely a matter of work style. this is a multipurpose axe. It is not only feasible, but inevitable the way I use axes, that I'll be holding the axe right below the head to work, and constantly in general handling. I've never put metal underneath, but rawhide is my favorite axe collar! I have a video series on that. One reason I like it is that it can be low profile and not interfere with handling.
IMO , handling is as important as edge retention on the edge . Some folks make judgments when they haven't used an axe for 10 solid hours and wind up with sore hands , wrists and arms , a broken axe because of a poorly balanced axe with a crappy handle .
IMO #2 , I ask people in various workshops over the years what their confidence level is in a given axe , knife or other tool . "Do you feel confident this axe , hatchet , knife , saw etc. with get your ass out of a bad situation ? " . Have a great weekend .
Sorry about the delay getting back to you Steve, I eventually, after several hours, found one of the articles that describes why the haft should be made with the outer, sapwood growth to the rear of the haft, see link below;
www.sihistin.fi/en/woodwork/axe.html
edit 2 - but grain orientation either way would be 90 degrees out of what we are told traditionally to do.
edit - just seen the comment below that you guys had alreay discussed this.
opposite to traditional yew longbow - would it not be better to be more like a bow due to the forces involved ? heartwood in (back of the axe) and sapwood front - because heart wood resists compression whilst the sap wood resists being held under tension....BUTTTTT you really do not want heartwood in a helve - I would have thought that the rear of the axe would be compressed when the head strikes and the front somewhat stretched.
to add to your aritcle... from young farmers guide by s todd...
books.google.co.uk/books/content?id=n7JMAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA279&img=1&zoom=3&hl=en&sig=ACfU3U2eS5hPY6xrLeK9uo_hsYaZtMvHXQ&ci=104%2C61%2C810%2C679&edge=0
Thanks for joining the discussion, my observations were based on my interest in the development and cultural variations of axes. The Finnish People have a very strong working relationship with their axes, 'Kirves' and have/ had the oldest recorded forges. The practice of making helves was a documented practice. Without making two helves with opposite orientations and abusing them until they fractured I could not provide scientific evaluation. I would conjecture that there might be two benefits from the heartwood at the front, 1. tighter grain that would resist bruising from over-strike 2. stronger resistance to compression fractures (such as when pushing down on on haft to release it from a cut), perhaps fatigue to the wood cutters hands might be a factor with one orientation vs another (I have noted some hafts give much more shock to my fingers, wrists and elbows, than others).
Thanks, love this old stuff! Certainly a philosophy on axe-design that most enthusiasts can relate to on the whole. Fascinates me how the Finnish Axes, Billnas, Kellokoski, Mariefors Bruks meticulously evolved and documented the design of shorter Birch hafts, long-socketed and tapered (to the eye-end) axe heads, relatively sharp bends in the bottom 1/3 of the haft and large 'knobs' on the end of the haft. Not to mention the steep wedged heads and steep ground cutting cutting angles. I cannot believe that these design factors were inefficient as the Finnish People lived by their axes, particularly well recorded is there WW2 war effort where women and children were given axe- shaped brooches as awards for producing firewood. Before I get too carried away!...the whole perspective of long-handle lighter head vs short-handle heavier head deserves deeper scrutiny. I have a few older axes handed down from ancestors, they have larger heads and shorter hafts.
oooooh, good one! I was looking last night for good axe stuff from the 19th century. It's very hard to find. I think a lot of it is because it was such a common tool as to not need much discussing. I may make my next handle that way.
This is a good video for the most part..... very long winded saying the same thing repeatedly.. but I get it is to emphasize the issues with the axe. Anyone who knows axes that own this 26' axe, like I do, knows the problems with it. But who wouldn't be fixing the handle on this axe. Most of us do..... Spoke Shave, sandpaper, fine knife for thinning the handle is what your going to need. That makes the long story short. Make it to your own specs like most of us do.....Like I did..... Over all it's still a good axe and is very practical after you've altered it. I am very satisfied with mine.... bang for the buck it is a good deal in comparison to other Swedish made axes.....
Not sure I've ever seen or heard of anyone fixing the handle on this axe. but certainly should.
@@SkillCult I honest don't know one person who owns this axe that hasn't modified that thick end near the head. The lower part I completely agree with you on, and have mine shaved off like you were talking about. It's normal. I've modified nearly every axe handle I've ever purchased in some way shape or form to suit me, the user. I love your video's tho, on the practical side. So keep up the good work!
dident you say that an gränsfors bruks axe arnt warf the money
That's generally my opinion yeah, but they have very high quality handles and a reputation for good fitting. cost is relative too. To some people, what is a lot to me is nothing. I'll sit and work on an axe for two hours, but other people can make 50.00 an hour and dont' know how to work on anything. Best case scenario to me is more sweat equity ends up yielding more experience and knowledge applying a skillset required to be a competent axeman anyway, like handle fitting and shaping, filing and reshaping and sharpening. An argument could be made to buy a gransfors over this axe though which is somewhat contextual.
Great video
Great videos of this cheap but fine axe for the price. Are your parents swedish (Edholm is a swedish name) love the video!👍
That is the name of my non biological father's non biological father lol. I seem to be mostly Irish.
Maybe the axes are shipped with extra wood ,so the handles can be customized.
Maybe, but this seems really excessive.
Only guessing here but, I would also put money on the fact if you cut the fat area of below the head the vibration will be greater . but your going to find out . Happy Trails
What did husqvama say about your comment?
Nothing that I know of. I doubt anyone was fired lol. Actually it would really be Hults Bruks who makes this and probably desigined it as well.
great information ..thanks ..
Smooth the edge a very little. My 2 bits.
Greetings Steven! NOT lame; very interesting discussion on the handle. IMHO, cut your chamfer under the ears; it creates a stress-riser otherwise. I wonder if that odd (normal) handle shape is more about manufacturing producibility than axe efficacy. Why is that nipple or raised heel area even there? Maybe the 'thick handle syndrome' is another marketing ploy? "Let's buy the one with the thicker handle, shouldn't it last longer?" - crap. Interested to see your final product.
Oh yeah, I meant the handle was kind of lame but has potential. I don't know why that heel is there. I just know it's not necessary. it might be left over from production design somehow. Not sure. It's history though. I think that a better handle for this even aside from excessive thickness) should be reproducable. I don't see why not. Other manufacturers do it. Still, the ears may present some problem if they are not expanded to a larger radius inside. it seems as though a combination of the right drift for shaping the eye and the right handle pattern could at least get a better fit. On this one it is very obvious that the ears have bottomed out and the rest of the head is not seated as fully. I think most people not familiar with more traditional handle thickness would tend to think the thick handle is a boon. it seems intuitively correct. it may be more durable, but I'm on the fence on that. I think either extreme if taken too far would end up courting breakage.
With your skills you will make it fit properly. To me red flags were sticks (handles) that didn't fit the hole provided. :) Sorry I misunderstood your header. You're smart, you can figure that out.
your Doppleganger lives south of me, and his name is Dirk, .............. its uncanny! what a wonderful amazing world :)
I don't have any experience with Husqvarna, or any axe manufacturer... but with the limited experience I do have in the manufacturing industry, I can say that modern manufacturers do NOT make the components of their product. Like, GM doesn't make windshield glass, Ford doesn't make window motors, Stihl doesn't make Chainsaw chains, and Dell doesn't make Mainboards or keyboards..etc. etc. Husqvarna doesn't grow trees or make handles. Modern manufacturing is "assembly" of products from factories whom they buy from (or sometimes own as a parent company). GM buys window motors from an electric motor manufacturer, glass from a glass manufacturer, etc. In the case of GM/FORD, the parts are made to meet their spec's (OEM spec) because of the volume they purchase and prepurchase. I have a feeling that someone at Husqvarna just matched up the picture/spec of the handle from a database/catalog with the axe head from their head manufacturer. Maybe the heads are made to spec, but I'd be utterly shocked if the handles were made per Husqvarna's spec, it just doesn't make sense financially or logistically.
I know more now. The axe is made by Hultafors They are a huge manufacture of tools. I think it is one of their models re-branded, because all of the husqvarna axe line appear in their catalog as Hutls Bruks models. As to the handles, who knows, but I think they are probably designed for their axe heads specifically.
Yeah that’s good
Awesome video but those little axes 🪓 are more or less hatchet s with a long handle. There not made to process cords and cords of wood at once. There camp/ bushcraft axes. Get a big boy tool 👍. Great video though, I appreciate your content.
As I've said in many videos, these are not great at anything, except being a reasonable compromise for someting light to carry that can still do a significant amount of work. they are what they are. Context is king.
I've bought several Husqvarna axes in the last few years and can't get over how thick they are. Way too thick for my taste. I like thick women not thick axe handles.
lol. It is amazing how thick they are.
Fixed up my first little hatchet. Axes, it seems, are like heroin - cheap, dangerous and powerful. Mostly dangerous.
so you took one of the best axes you can buy, and you didn't like it, so therefore it's terrible and they don't know how to make axe handles? i'm thinking your preference is just dainty handles, i've been using my husqvarna carpenters axe for years, only thing i've done with it is give it a nicer edge, everyone that lays there hand on my axe falls in love with it. except the guys with granfors brucks, but they all say my axe is very similar to theirs
How do you define "one of the best axes you can buy? Apparently not the same as I do. It has potential, but it just needs a lot of work. BTW, There are many instances of this axe breaking right across the bit. Is that still one of the best axes you can buy? That is a very rare problem in axes.
Can't trust a guy that drinks coffee from a clear cup. Kidding.
I’ll just call you master cult.
The problem with the axe bullshit is that all these idiots that go camping once or twice a year in an RV look online and buy some 200 dollar axe thinking it's some super axe. You should buy axes to be able to fit yourself. If I'm buying a 200 dollar axe it better be customed built to fit exactly what I want. Otherwise imo you buy one of those crazy expensive axes your not using it your buying a handle art. I would buy a cheap axe to modify myself any day
Skillcult. I'm still calling u Skillcult. Way more epic than Steven. My wife and kids know "Skillcult". Love ur channel. Started my 42 tree orchard in 2009 watching Steven Hayes (which you've mentioned) - see?...way too many Stevens. Carry on Skillz. Great stuff u do!
Ha, true, too many. Maybe I'll just change me name!
you should start modifying axes and selling them. people would buy them, what you say makes sense. people making axes aren't using them everyday.
I prefer professor Steve
Ha!!! This is no "AXE-ident"
As for radiusing the inside edge of the eye. It should be an improvement. The british built some air plane with square window openings, they failed they developed cracks radiating out from the corners due to the exspansion and contraction of the air frame and they cause the planes to fail. And your correct that square edge will cause the handle to weaken and brake. Actual I just had one do exactly that. Another tool you might study is a vauhn frameing hammer. The head is unique in design as it puts the weight of the head in a position that generates more striking force with less weight than many other designs and also reduces the torque twisting to your hand and wrist. Estwing make a hammer that is terrible in that it has a flat thin steel handle and a very heavy on the claw portion of the head. The best design of axe head I have ever used in the norlund because it is also balance with more weight out on the end of the swing path. And for kindleing the face is oriented in line with the path of your swing. Have a nice day.
You are very knowledgeable but after 30 minutes of talking I am almost brain dead. Do something!
thats why you paid 100 bucks for it... other than 300... it needs modification! IMHO
I expect it to need work, like almost any axe, but not much excuse for designing a poor fit between the handle and the head in the first place. With some modification, it could be much better, with no more labor on their part. I'm not sure why anyone would think that objection is not justifiable.
lol @ ®
thank you for your comment Steven Edholm®
this is no axe-ident
Less talk more do.
You like books with mostly pictures too?
Oh yeah. Tig bitties