How to Diagnose and Recharge Your AC System with Refrigerant - Using an A/C Manifold Gauge Set
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video I will show you how you can use an air conditioning (A/C) manifold gauge set to both diagnose problems and add refrigerant to your car's ac system. We will go over some different pressure readings you could have for the low and high pressure sides of the ac system, what could cause those and than onto a step by step procedure on adding a refrigerant to your car's ac system.
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Ratchetsand Wrenches, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Ratchetsand Wrenches assumes no liability for any property or personal damage that may arise from doing a repair on your vehicle after watching any of my repair video's. Due to factors beyond the control of Ratchetsand Wrenches, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Again Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Ratchetsand Wrenches.
I am reasonably proficient with a/c. Watched several videos just for a refresher. Yours is one of the best if not the best. Great job.
After watching numerous other YT videos on this subject, I found that yours is the only one to logically explain the steps to topping up the refrigerant. You were the only one to mention the IMPORTANCE of making sure the valves are in the correct position BEFORE attaching to ports (and can of refrigerant). Excellent! The best presentation yet on this subject! Keep up the good work!
It’s impossible to get them mixed up . That’s why they are different sizes.
@crisperez592 I believe he is referring to making sure the valves are closed at the manifold (clockwise) and valves at ports are also closed or backed out (counter clockwise) to not depress the Schrader valve. That's important stuff. You are correct though. Impossible to get them mixed up.
Good explanation. I would suggest using the refrigerant to flush the air from the charging hose before allowing it to flow into the AC system. There is a valve for that purpose on your manifold gauge set. Sometimes you don't get away with turning the can upside down and allowing refrigerant to flow into the system in the fluid state. I'd keep it flowing in the gaseous state just to be safe.
Some vids say 12 to 3 turning of the can. Others say all upside down. Even on the can of refrigerant it says hold upside down so which is right?
purge with the shrader valve on manafold after connecting R134a then open coupling valve slowly on low psi side to charge watch gauges
@@cooldude2245 did u get a answer? I still am confused. Everyone says different
Ini komenan yang paling benar terkadang sebagai tukang service ac juga kurang begitu memahami akan hal ini..
Kenapa dalam mengisi refrigeran kaleng harus dalam posisi berdiri tegak dikarnakan masuknya refrigeran ke jalur LP berbentuk gas begitupun refrigeran bekerja dari output evaporator juga berbentuk gas bukan cair ..
Satu hal lagi dalam mengisi refrigeran cair kaleng di balik dipastikan jangan menyalakan mesin mobil sampai refrigeran di angka 40 psi segera tutup kran HP
Great video! I would add (my apologies if I missed you covering this) that you need to purge the air from the yellow line after you connect the can of refrigerant and before you open the low side valve to start sucking the new refrigerant in. This will keep moisture/air out of your system.
Exactly! Same goes with the LP and HP connection, he missed to purge those air trap in the hose lines before open both L and H gauges, especially the L side. In this case, he had air trap in the LP blue hose and the yellow line. Other than that, great video!
Why he did not purge the blue or red lines once he connect them to prevent air? any idea? thx
@@zofa300because he is a TH-cam mechanic
@@loganyoutube4818 And yet, here you are.
@@maddogpham9815 Several people have said this, but nobody has said how you do it. 😕
Thank you, this was by far the best video on TH-cam for AC diagnostics and refill.
Great job on the video. I love in-depth tutorials that make sense! Too many people are out here making repair guides that don't understand what they're repairing and working on. Great job my friend!
Outstanding video demonstrating step by step analysis. This man is a natural born instructor.
Best way, and fastest to get the liquid out of the can is to keep it upright in a bowl of warm to hot water. Also, when adding refrigerant make sure that high side(red) valve is closed off.
But. With this being said add your refrigerant slowly
i appreciate, i was trained 37 years ago, under old R12 stuff, still have a bunch of r12 cans, and 1 big tank, but never worked on 134, just bought gauges couldnt find vacuum pump? stolen many years ago i guess, and rebuilding a vehicle i got talked into, so needing to fix air. i had fundementals, just needing a brush up on this
Very clear explanation. I especially liked your trouble shooting guide about the meaning of incorrect pressure readings. Very helpful. You even showed what they mean on both expansion valve and orifice tube systems. Very good. Thank you.
Thks for the update. Before you open the low-pressure value I'm sure you bleed the air from the service line before opening the low side. Thks again. You are a skilled technician.
A great educator with genuine knowledge!!! Much better than others....
This guy is the best, after this I’m ready to fix my ac
Excellent video...with just one error. You did not show to purge the yellow line of air when you added the 134a.
i noticed that also there fore causing air and condensation into the system
basic.
@@vergiemondejar7554only basic after you know to do it.
How do you get the air out?
@@Snceday1 You let a puff of refrigerant flow through the yellow line immediately before pushing it onto the low side fitting.
Love the white board, best vid for DIY. Thanks man...
wow! I love the way you explained it. i wish ALL DIY videos were done this way.
did this about a year ago but was not sure what numbers were my target for the high and low side. Thanks for the helpful video! I will have to check my work now
+Eoken np, glad you liked it. cheers
Very good video. I only wish he had covered the process of using a vacuum pump to pull the system into a vacuum in order to pull out any moisture and to also check for leaks first. If the system holds vacuum for 15-30 minutes, you're good. If the pressure slowly goes back up, then you have a leak that needs to be addressed before you add more refrigerant (which will just leak back out). Still, a great overall description for a basic recharge using the gauges.
Excellent presentation! It's the most useful ac troubleshooting video I found on TH-cam. Kudos!
But I have to say.....you are one of the best ones explaining in detail the process....thank you
EXCELLENT VIDEO!!
thank you so much for this. Added 1 can and me nibs are back on full high beams!!! Lol
I'm in AZ so its nasty without A/C!!
LOL
Your video does a great job explaining everything and how the numbers work. Thank you
..most mini-vans and larger suv's have front & rear AC/Heat that use both an Expansion Valve & Orifice Tube.
Great video !!!
+Ol James good info, thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much! I needed to have this explained to me with details like this video did.
What do you call INTELLECTUAL AND PRODIGY and SUBSTANTIAL add one more KNOWLEDGEABLE the answer is
Ratchets and Wrench
Tutorial brilliant video amazing thank you for sharing what you know with us
Take care and have a great Weekend 👍
INTELLECTUAL Ratchets and Wrench
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Best explanation covering all possible scenarios
Awesome video keep the cameras rolling and doing what you do
This is a very good and helpful video.
Thanks!
Great job. You explained this very well . Now I know what to do . Thanks again 👍
Just saw your video on charging A/C, and I like it. thanks.
You are Great please keep up the great job you are the only one that lets us know what to look for.
After you attach the can of Freon, don’t forget to slightly loosen the yellow line at the manifold so you can burp the air out of the line. If you don’t do this, you will let air into the system and this is not good. He forgot that step.
This is one of the better videos on the subject on YT - congrats.
BWT, got a Q on an issue that is not covered well most anywhere - AC works fine during cool temps (morning n evening) but not in hot weather!! Any idea why this is?
Hi there, im a fan of your videos. I keep on adding refrigerant to my car a/c system every after 2-4days. My car doesn't blow cold after it is stock for a day even though i just had it refilled with refrigerants.
R / W, if the below comments on "bleeding the lines" is accurate (makes sense to me) you should edit this video otherwise you are not being very responsible with your advise . I am not trying to be an ass, I have learned a lot from you, but I am really glad I read the comments before attempting this.
That pretty comprehensive. You're a good explainer.
Best videp ever explaining the 134a gauge levels. 👍😎
great video, buddy - thank you for explaining the possible pressure readings and what they might mean
great video partner love all your video's I think u forgot to purge your charging hose yellow one, but great explanation!!!!
maybe he didn't want to get busted for venting and be deported ;)
Now THERE'S an intelligent comment :rolleyes:
He may have purged the hoses before recording. With the disconnects at the end of the hose, you could attach the hoses, purge them then attach to system. Then attach to the next system w/o purging again. But yes, purging should have been mentioned.
Thank you. That is very well explained.
Hay man I appreciate you for you knowledge and information thanks a lot bro I support your Chanel
Great commentary and well expliained with easy logical explanations 👍
Most informative video I’ve seen anywhere
This is way better. He teaches you how to read the gauges rather than playing around with trying to weigh a can.
Best video I've seen so far. Keep up the good work !!
Excellent job. Very helpful and thorough.
Great video as ever. Don't you have to prime the yellow line so as not to allow any moisture or air into the system?
Very clear to the point instructions
Thank you for this helpful video! I especially appreciate the theory portion. I am hoping you or someone else can help me understand my results. My cold static check at ambient 76F is 60 psi low side and 80 psi high side. Dynamic check at 76F is 85 psi low side and 100 psi high side. I am having a hard time confirming that the compressor is engaging because of its location. Can you help me understand these numbers? Does the compressor appear to be running?
The best ac video on TH-cam
Very well done video. Covered a lot in a small amount of time.
you dident purge the yellow line before u let the 134a into the system so u also let a yellow line full of air into the system as well.
Since it had pressure in a/c need to purge blue low & red high plus purge yellow suction..great vid👍
Perfect. Great Information, shared!
I appreciate theses types of videos
Love your videos very informative and straight to the point thanks from New York
2:58 is purging of air in both blue and red lines needed at this time before you turn the AC on?
That's is a very good Information Thanks
I purge the 3 lines. Blue and red after plugging the lines with the engine off. Yellow
Great video!!!
I really appreciate videos like yours that are easy to understand!What would it be an acceptable psi difference between low and high?
My high system reads: 125psi and low 85psi
Thank you very much!
Great video , easy to understand
But how much do you put in? How can you tell how much you need and when it’s full (without overfilling)? Otherwise, great video.
Best description I've seen for sure. Question. My symptom is whenever I turn on my defroster (with or without heat) the ac clutch engages and my radiator fans activate? Any advice on this? I changed the ac pressure switch to no avail.
Succinct and to the point. Great job!
Master class on AC !!!
Awesome! Great vid. Now more motivated to take the course. Thanks!!!
+F.O.U.O Cruz Glad you like the video, thanks for commenting.
Thank you
Very thorough vid,
Q why wouldn’t air be drawn into the system through the yellow line ahead of the refrigerant ?
You gave a few scenarios except one. What if the low side is right where it's supposed to be but the high side is too low?
Great tutorial, easy to understand.
Hi my friend again! good explanation.....
Question ?
So how do you know is empty or how much refrigerant is in the car.
Because you just put one can only,
is a way to know how much refrigerant is in the car?
thank you!......i am confuse......because you put only one can and it was smaller can.....thats right.
thank u.....
The chart will let you know how much is needed to add depending on the outside temperature. The gauges will let you know what is the correct amount. The sticker on the hood will tell you the max amount of Freon to have in the system.
Terrific explanation: clear and thorough!
Beautiful video.
Best video I've seen for so far.
Dear RNW you are great and you take your time to explain things well. But I have Question about my system which is confusing and I have not seen solution to it on you tube Maybe you can Help. I have Tundra 2001 it had front right side body damage affected the fender, RF headlight and air filter housing and bent the condenser, also replaced the Radiator, and fan was broken also. All were fixed. System had pressure even after accident. First situation was Low pressure low (15-20), and High pressure High over 250psi, and clutch engage and disengage frequently we added Freon just a little high side went way up and low stayed the same, pursuant to Toyota Diagnostic table, indicated Blockage in the Receiver Dryer or expansion valve, we replaced both, we also tested all the line connection for leak, after replacement and testing condenser for leak we got to situation 2. Now the condenser have minor bent but holding pressure, the low is steady normal at 40 psi, and the high side went too high 275 and kept increasing to about to 350- to 375 close to 400psi and we did not even put one small can and clutch engages all the time without stop. Do you suspect the high pressure sensor not closing the circuit and causing all of the issues?
Making a few notes to check my understanding. If I need a correction, someone/anyone please let me know!
Start with gauge valves closed so that nothing escapes through the yellow line. Gauges will still read pressure from red/blue lines. Gauge valves open counterclockwise and quick-connect valves open clockwise.
_Systems with an orifice tube use an accumulator on the low side, after the evaporator. Systems with an expansion valve use a receiver-dryer after the condenser._
With compressor not running, you would expect pressure on both lines to be the same (eg., 60psi or so). If there is a difference, there's probably a clog somewhere (orifice tube or expansion valve maybe). With compressor running, consult a chart to verify the pressure numbers you're seeing based on ambient temp and humidity.
Example 1: If both Low and High side readings are towards their respective low ranges, system is likely low on refrigerant (car does cool, but not enough.)
Example 2: If both Low and High side readings are towards their respective high ranges or exceed the high ranges, system probably has too much refrigerant in it OR air isn't flowing through the condenser (fins are clogged, fans don't run etc.) System does not create a low-side pressure differential/compressor may be shutting down in self-preservation etc.)
Example 3: If both Low and High side readings are still the same even when compressor clutch is engaged, compressor is damaged. It's just not compressing refrigerant.
Example 4: Low side is lower than expected/High side is higher than expected. Likely clog in the high side (between compressor and orifice or expansion valve) Suspect condenser or receiver/dryer or expansion valve/orifice tube etc)
Example 5: Low side is higher than expected/High side is lower than expected. Systems with expansion valve: expansion valve is stuck open or compressor check valve is bad. Systems with orifice tube: Accumulator is clogged or compressor check valve is bad.
Hi... love all your vids. If I let all the r134a out of my system and vac it out, will I need to replace the oil. I'm handicapped and trying not to have to pull the compressor to dump the oil and refill. Thank you for your time. Johnny
Dude, excellent video.
This is a fantastic video!!!! thanks!
Nice video, When you attach the blue and red lines for doing the measurements, shouldn't you purge these lines from air or air will not get into the system? thx
Great video bud. Learned lot more than i expected...Thank you for making this awesome video.
You have good communication with our minds , Thank You
Just one thing
How we can get the temperature schedule ?
I am trying to diagnose my 2000 Mustang GT A/C problem. I have been searching for hours and I cant find a video that has my specific issues combined with my troubleshooting results. You videos are very informative and I was wondering what you think. The A/C blows warm air and the compressor clutch is rapid cycling. My low and high pressure switches ohm out correctly. Manifold gauge readings are @80/80 static (80 deg F 30% Humid). When the A/C is on the gauges read 20-60 on the low and 100-125 on the high. If I jump the low pressure switch, to stop the rapid cycling, the compressor runs continuously and the low side goes to 0 and the high side stays at 100-125. Bringing engine rpm up to 2500 never increases pressure. Gauge pressures are unaffected by rpm. No obvious leaks but I have not leak tested yet. I'm narrowed down to a leak causing low charge or the compressor is bad. Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks for the great videos
thanks for great insight on Gauge Set
Thanks my friend.. If i have a difficulties from my work, i will have your expertiest advice, right?
I've always been taught never to turn the can upside down and let liquid into the low side. That is only for when doing a fast charge on the high side. Which I haven't learned how to do, but would like to. I just set the can in some warm water to speed up the charging. I think the danger is a hydraulic lock in the compressor piston if liquid gets into it. It seems like lately the most common failure is the compressor. There are so many junk new compressors on the market it's hard to find one that works, or lasts very long.. The OEM ones are probably the best bet but the cost is hard to justify in an older used car.
I have a 98 Sonoma ac clutch kicks in an out at times an no ac what should I look for to fix it
awesome video!! Thanks for the class :)
Great video! I found it very helpful! Thank you.
Really great video
You forgot to purge the yellow line from trapped air
How do you do that?
You did not bleed out the air from the yellow hose before turning on the low side to allow the 134 into the system.
How should he have done that? If you could explain it in detail to a noob, that would be great. Thanks in advance!
Keeping the yellow line connected to the tank of refrigerant, you will want to partially unscrew the yellow line where it connects to the manifold, with the manifolds valves turned in the off position. Open the valve on the tank slightly to purge the air out of the line and then screw the line fully into the manifold. Wear gloves.
You want to purge ALL lines; yellow, blue, and red. There is air from the atmosphere in all those hoses when you connect. At the gauge manifold, open each line for about 1 second (depending on length of hose) before opening the manifold valves.
And yes wear gloves. I usually don't and let me tell you, it's cold.
Truth Finder
So, you'd hook up the couplings on the service ports with the engine not running and bleed out the hi and low hoses at the manifold connection?
Super helpful thank you!
The tap can adapter should have an open/close valve mechanism in case we'd need to stop the refrigerant flow and saving the remaining.
The video I needed
Great Video, Thanks!
Based on my understanding, the valve on the high-pressure side should also open facing down instead of facing up. Because the AC compressor draws freon from the low side to the high side, if the valve open facing up like in the diagram, how come the valve get open?
I hope some one or the author can help me understand. Thank you!
The 2x8 is impressive
How are you able to determine the amount for refrigerant that's in the system before adding more with the a/c manifold? Is it based off of the chart where you take your humidity and other outside factors to determine proper a/c readings?
ilike ur videos
what the normal value for both side pressure when compreser engage .
and what the normal value when compresser disengage for both side pressure ?
Great video man. Thanks for making it!
Great video! Just like every time! Thank you!
+BrokenCross np, glad you liked it. cheers
Thank you so much
Sir what is the ideal reading on the manifold gauges in the low and high side to determine how much refrigerant to top up...thanks