After watching numerous other YT videos on this subject, I found that yours is the only one to logically explain the steps to topping up the refrigerant. You were the only one to mention the IMPORTANCE of making sure the valves are in the correct position BEFORE attaching to ports (and can of refrigerant). Excellent! The best presentation yet on this subject! Keep up the good work!
@crisperez592 I believe he is referring to making sure the valves are closed at the manifold (clockwise) and valves at ports are also closed or backed out (counter clockwise) to not depress the Schrader valve. That's important stuff. You are correct though. Impossible to get them mixed up.
Great video! I would add (my apologies if I missed you covering this) that you need to purge the air from the yellow line after you connect the can of refrigerant and before you open the low side valve to start sucking the new refrigerant in. This will keep moisture/air out of your system.
Exactly! Same goes with the LP and HP connection, he missed to purge those air trap in the hose lines before open both L and H gauges, especially the L side. In this case, he had air trap in the LP blue hose and the yellow line. Other than that, great video!
Good explanation. I would suggest using the refrigerant to flush the air from the charging hose before allowing it to flow into the AC system. There is a valve for that purpose on your manifold gauge set. Sometimes you don't get away with turning the can upside down and allowing refrigerant to flow into the system in the fluid state. I'd keep it flowing in the gaseous state just to be safe.
Ini komenan yang paling benar terkadang sebagai tukang service ac juga kurang begitu memahami akan hal ini.. Kenapa dalam mengisi refrigeran kaleng harus dalam posisi berdiri tegak dikarnakan masuknya refrigeran ke jalur LP berbentuk gas begitupun refrigeran bekerja dari output evaporator juga berbentuk gas bukan cair .. Satu hal lagi dalam mengisi refrigeran cair kaleng di balik dipastikan jangan menyalakan mesin mobil sampai refrigeran di angka 40 psi segera tutup kran HP
Great job on the video. I love in-depth tutorials that make sense! Too many people are out here making repair guides that don't understand what they're repairing and working on. Great job my friend!
Best way, and fastest to get the liquid out of the can is to keep it upright in a bowl of warm to hot water. Also, when adding refrigerant make sure that high side(red) valve is closed off.
Thks for the update. Before you open the low-pressure value I'm sure you bleed the air from the service line before opening the low side. Thks again. You are a skilled technician.
i appreciate, i was trained 37 years ago, under old R12 stuff, still have a bunch of r12 cans, and 1 big tank, but never worked on 134, just bought gauges couldnt find vacuum pump? stolen many years ago i guess, and rebuilding a vehicle i got talked into, so needing to fix air. i had fundementals, just needing a brush up on this
Very clear explanation. I especially liked your trouble shooting guide about the meaning of incorrect pressure readings. Very helpful. You even showed what they mean on both expansion valve and orifice tube systems. Very good. Thank you.
did this about a year ago but was not sure what numbers were my target for the high and low side. Thanks for the helpful video! I will have to check my work now
Very good video. I only wish he had covered the process of using a vacuum pump to pull the system into a vacuum in order to pull out any moisture and to also check for leaks first. If the system holds vacuum for 15-30 minutes, you're good. If the pressure slowly goes back up, then you have a leak that needs to be addressed before you add more refrigerant (which will just leak back out). Still, a great overall description for a basic recharge using the gauges.
What do you call INTELLECTUAL AND PRODIGY and SUBSTANTIAL add one more KNOWLEDGEABLE the answer is Ratchets and Wrench Tutorial brilliant video amazing thank you for sharing what you know with us Take care and have a great Weekend 👍 INTELLECTUAL Ratchets and Wrench From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
After you attach the can of Freon, don’t forget to slightly loosen the yellow line at the manifold so you can burp the air out of the line. If you don’t do this, you will let air into the system and this is not good. He forgot that step.
Thank you for this helpful video! I especially appreciate the theory portion. I am hoping you or someone else can help me understand my results. My cold static check at ambient 76F is 60 psi low side and 80 psi high side. Dynamic check at 76F is 85 psi low side and 100 psi high side. I am having a hard time confirming that the compressor is engaging because of its location. Can you help me understand these numbers? Does the compressor appear to be running?
This is one of the better videos on the subject on YT - congrats. BWT, got a Q on an issue that is not covered well most anywhere - AC works fine during cool temps (morning n evening) but not in hot weather!! Any idea why this is?
Hi there, im a fan of your videos. I keep on adding refrigerant to my car a/c system every after 2-4days. My car doesn't blow cold after it is stock for a day even though i just had it refilled with refrigerants.
Great video!!! I really appreciate videos like yours that are easy to understand!What would it be an acceptable psi difference between low and high? My high system reads: 125psi and low 85psi Thank you very much!
Dear RNW you are great and you take your time to explain things well. But I have Question about my system which is confusing and I have not seen solution to it on you tube Maybe you can Help. I have Tundra 2001 it had front right side body damage affected the fender, RF headlight and air filter housing and bent the condenser, also replaced the Radiator, and fan was broken also. All were fixed. System had pressure even after accident. First situation was Low pressure low (15-20), and High pressure High over 250psi, and clutch engage and disengage frequently we added Freon just a little high side went way up and low stayed the same, pursuant to Toyota Diagnostic table, indicated Blockage in the Receiver Dryer or expansion valve, we replaced both, we also tested all the line connection for leak, after replacement and testing condenser for leak we got to situation 2. Now the condenser have minor bent but holding pressure, the low is steady normal at 40 psi, and the high side went too high 275 and kept increasing to about to 350- to 375 close to 400psi and we did not even put one small can and clutch engages all the time without stop. Do you suspect the high pressure sensor not closing the circuit and causing all of the issues?
Nice video, When you attach the blue and red lines for doing the measurements, shouldn't you purge these lines from air or air will not get into the system? thx
R / W, if the below comments on "bleeding the lines" is accurate (makes sense to me) you should edit this video otherwise you are not being very responsible with your advise . I am not trying to be an ass, I have learned a lot from you, but I am really glad I read the comments before attempting this.
He may have purged the hoses before recording. With the disconnects at the end of the hose, you could attach the hoses, purge them then attach to system. Then attach to the next system w/o purging again. But yes, purging should have been mentioned.
Making a few notes to check my understanding. If I need a correction, someone/anyone please let me know! Start with gauge valves closed so that nothing escapes through the yellow line. Gauges will still read pressure from red/blue lines. Gauge valves open counterclockwise and quick-connect valves open clockwise. _Systems with an orifice tube use an accumulator on the low side, after the evaporator. Systems with an expansion valve use a receiver-dryer after the condenser._ With compressor not running, you would expect pressure on both lines to be the same (eg., 60psi or so). If there is a difference, there's probably a clog somewhere (orifice tube or expansion valve maybe). With compressor running, consult a chart to verify the pressure numbers you're seeing based on ambient temp and humidity. Example 1: If both Low and High side readings are towards their respective low ranges, system is likely low on refrigerant (car does cool, but not enough.) Example 2: If both Low and High side readings are towards their respective high ranges or exceed the high ranges, system probably has too much refrigerant in it OR air isn't flowing through the condenser (fins are clogged, fans don't run etc.) System does not create a low-side pressure differential/compressor may be shutting down in self-preservation etc.) Example 3: If both Low and High side readings are still the same even when compressor clutch is engaged, compressor is damaged. It's just not compressing refrigerant. Example 4: Low side is lower than expected/High side is higher than expected. Likely clog in the high side (between compressor and orifice or expansion valve) Suspect condenser or receiver/dryer or expansion valve/orifice tube etc) Example 5: Low side is higher than expected/High side is lower than expected. Systems with expansion valve: expansion valve is stuck open or compressor check valve is bad. Systems with orifice tube: Accumulator is clogged or compressor check valve is bad.
Best description I've seen for sure. Question. My symptom is whenever I turn on my defroster (with or without heat) the ac clutch engages and my radiator fans activate? Any advice on this? I changed the ac pressure switch to no avail.
I am trying to diagnose my 2000 Mustang GT A/C problem. I have been searching for hours and I cant find a video that has my specific issues combined with my troubleshooting results. You videos are very informative and I was wondering what you think. The A/C blows warm air and the compressor clutch is rapid cycling. My low and high pressure switches ohm out correctly. Manifold gauge readings are @80/80 static (80 deg F 30% Humid). When the A/C is on the gauges read 20-60 on the low and 100-125 on the high. If I jump the low pressure switch, to stop the rapid cycling, the compressor runs continuously and the low side goes to 0 and the high side stays at 100-125. Bringing engine rpm up to 2500 never increases pressure. Gauge pressures are unaffected by rpm. No obvious leaks but I have not leak tested yet. I'm narrowed down to a leak causing low charge or the compressor is bad. Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks for the great videos
How are you able to determine the amount for refrigerant that's in the system before adding more with the a/c manifold? Is it based off of the chart where you take your humidity and other outside factors to determine proper a/c readings?
Hi... love all your vids. If I let all the r134a out of my system and vac it out, will I need to replace the oil. I'm handicapped and trying not to have to pull the compressor to dump the oil and refill. Thank you for your time. Johnny
Hi my friend again! good explanation..... Question ? So how do you know is empty or how much refrigerant is in the car. Because you just put one can only, is a way to know how much refrigerant is in the car? thank you!......i am confuse......because you put only one can and it was smaller can.....thats right. thank u.....
The chart will let you know how much is needed to add depending on the outside temperature. The gauges will let you know what is the correct amount. The sticker on the hood will tell you the max amount of Freon to have in the system.
I own Yaris 2012, which when goes at high speed, gets cold air however when at slow speed or idle, doesn't give cold air, what do you reckon is the problem, is it with a blower fan or less refrigerant?
Why would my clutch not disengage? Before it did not kick on, I fix that. I add refrigerant and it kick on but don't goes on and off, it stays on. I used the AC PRO can that had the digital screen, showing 3 psi, adding that can take it to 27 psi (low pressure port) when running. After a few hours I motice that I didn't get cold air, so again, I went to check the pressure, with the car off I have LOW PRESSURE in 75psi and HIGH PRESSURE port at 120psi. Any clue what's going on? Thanks!
Hello ! I would like to know what can be wrong with a compressor that engage for a few seconds and then desengage and do the same all over again but does not work enough to produce cold air. Could it be too much refrigerant in the system ? This is happenning to me after a recharge, but I think I put a little more than it should take. I would appreciate your advice on this issue. Thanks a lot, Ramon, Miami.
what are the temperature scale on the gage for on the low side 90degrees line up with 105 psi and it should be 45-55 psi and the T fitting on the yellow hose has a cap if I take the cap off and store the other end of the yellow hose there like I see you have it do I have put the cap back on when I use the gage thanks for your help Bert
Based on my understanding, the valve on the high-pressure side should also open facing down instead of facing up. Because the AC compressor draws freon from the low side to the high side, if the valve open facing up like in the diagram, how come the valve get open? I hope some one or the author can help me understand. Thank you!
Mine has good pressure at idle, 40 and 220, but when I raise the rpm to about 2500 the low side drop to 20 I think and the high side goes up to 250+. Also shouldn’t the low side line be getting very cold?
I bought a set of gauges today and hooked them up. My low line reads zero but my high side reads 225. I haven’t found anything online that explains it but I’m assuming I have a clogged somewhere...? Any advice?
I am reasonably proficient with a/c. Watched several videos just for a refresher. Yours is one of the best if not the best. Great job.
After watching numerous other YT videos on this subject, I found that yours is the only one to logically explain the steps to topping up the refrigerant. You were the only one to mention the IMPORTANCE of making sure the valves are in the correct position BEFORE attaching to ports (and can of refrigerant). Excellent! The best presentation yet on this subject! Keep up the good work!
It’s impossible to get them mixed up . That’s why they are different sizes.
@crisperez592 I believe he is referring to making sure the valves are closed at the manifold (clockwise) and valves at ports are also closed or backed out (counter clockwise) to not depress the Schrader valve. That's important stuff. You are correct though. Impossible to get them mixed up.
Great video! I would add (my apologies if I missed you covering this) that you need to purge the air from the yellow line after you connect the can of refrigerant and before you open the low side valve to start sucking the new refrigerant in. This will keep moisture/air out of your system.
Exactly! Same goes with the LP and HP connection, he missed to purge those air trap in the hose lines before open both L and H gauges, especially the L side. In this case, he had air trap in the LP blue hose and the yellow line. Other than that, great video!
Why he did not purge the blue or red lines once he connect them to prevent air? any idea? thx
@@zofa300because he is a TH-cam mechanic
@@loganyoutube4818 And yet, here you are.
@@maddogpham9815 Several people have said this, but nobody has said how you do it. 😕
Good explanation. I would suggest using the refrigerant to flush the air from the charging hose before allowing it to flow into the AC system. There is a valve for that purpose on your manifold gauge set. Sometimes you don't get away with turning the can upside down and allowing refrigerant to flow into the system in the fluid state. I'd keep it flowing in the gaseous state just to be safe.
Some vids say 12 to 3 turning of the can. Others say all upside down. Even on the can of refrigerant it says hold upside down so which is right?
purge with the shrader valve on manafold after connecting R134a then open coupling valve slowly on low psi side to charge watch gauges
@@cooldude2245 did u get a answer? I still am confused. Everyone says different
Ini komenan yang paling benar terkadang sebagai tukang service ac juga kurang begitu memahami akan hal ini..
Kenapa dalam mengisi refrigeran kaleng harus dalam posisi berdiri tegak dikarnakan masuknya refrigeran ke jalur LP berbentuk gas begitupun refrigeran bekerja dari output evaporator juga berbentuk gas bukan cair ..
Satu hal lagi dalam mengisi refrigeran cair kaleng di balik dipastikan jangan menyalakan mesin mobil sampai refrigeran di angka 40 psi segera tutup kran HP
Thank you, this was by far the best video on TH-cam for AC diagnostics and refill.
Outstanding video demonstrating step by step analysis. This man is a natural born instructor.
A great educator with genuine knowledge!!! Much better than others....
This guy is the best, after this I’m ready to fix my ac
Great job on the video. I love in-depth tutorials that make sense! Too many people are out here making repair guides that don't understand what they're repairing and working on. Great job my friend!
Best way, and fastest to get the liquid out of the can is to keep it upright in a bowl of warm to hot water. Also, when adding refrigerant make sure that high side(red) valve is closed off.
But. With this being said add your refrigerant slowly
Thks for the update. Before you open the low-pressure value I'm sure you bleed the air from the service line before opening the low side. Thks again. You are a skilled technician.
But I have to say.....you are one of the best ones explaining in detail the process....thank you
i appreciate, i was trained 37 years ago, under old R12 stuff, still have a bunch of r12 cans, and 1 big tank, but never worked on 134, just bought gauges couldnt find vacuum pump? stolen many years ago i guess, and rebuilding a vehicle i got talked into, so needing to fix air. i had fundementals, just needing a brush up on this
Very clear explanation. I especially liked your trouble shooting guide about the meaning of incorrect pressure readings. Very helpful. You even showed what they mean on both expansion valve and orifice tube systems. Very good. Thank you.
Best explanation covering all possible scenarios
wow! I love the way you explained it. i wish ALL DIY videos were done this way.
This is way better. He teaches you how to read the gauges rather than playing around with trying to weigh a can.
did this about a year ago but was not sure what numbers were my target for the high and low side. Thanks for the helpful video! I will have to check my work now
+Eoken np, glad you liked it. cheers
Most informative video I’ve seen anywhere
Awesome video keep the cameras rolling and doing what you do
The best ac video on TH-cam
Excellent presentation! It's the most useful ac troubleshooting video I found on TH-cam. Kudos!
Very good video. I only wish he had covered the process of using a vacuum pump to pull the system into a vacuum in order to pull out any moisture and to also check for leaks first. If the system holds vacuum for 15-30 minutes, you're good. If the pressure slowly goes back up, then you have a leak that needs to be addressed before you add more refrigerant (which will just leak back out). Still, a great overall description for a basic recharge using the gauges.
Love the white board, best vid for DIY. Thanks man...
That pretty comprehensive. You're a good explainer.
Your video does a great job explaining everything and how the numbers work. Thank you
Best videp ever explaining the 134a gauge levels. 👍😎
What do you call INTELLECTUAL AND PRODIGY and SUBSTANTIAL add one more KNOWLEDGEABLE the answer is
Ratchets and Wrench
Tutorial brilliant video amazing thank you for sharing what you know with us
Take care and have a great Weekend 👍
INTELLECTUAL Ratchets and Wrench
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
You are Great please keep up the great job you are the only one that lets us know what to look for.
Thank you so much! I needed to have this explained to me with details like this video did.
This is a very good and helpful video.
Thanks!
..most mini-vans and larger suv's have front & rear AC/Heat that use both an Expansion Valve & Orifice Tube.
Great video !!!
+Ol James good info, thanks for sharing.
Great job. You explained this very well . Now I know what to do . Thanks again 👍
Just saw your video on charging A/C, and I like it. thanks.
Best video I've seen so far. Keep up the good work !!
EXCELLENT VIDEO!!
thank you so much for this. Added 1 can and me nibs are back on full high beams!!! Lol
I'm in AZ so its nasty without A/C!!
LOL
Excellent job. Very helpful and thorough.
Very clear to the point instructions
Excellent video...with just one error. You did not show to purge the yellow line of air when you added the 134a.
i noticed that also there fore causing air and condensation into the system
basic.
@@vergiemondejar7554only basic after you know to do it.
How do you get the air out?
@@Snceday1 You let a puff of refrigerant flow through the yellow line immediately before pushing it onto the low side fitting.
After you attach the can of Freon, don’t forget to slightly loosen the yellow line at the manifold so you can burp the air out of the line. If you don’t do this, you will let air into the system and this is not good. He forgot that step.
Great commentary and well expliained with easy logical explanations 👍
Best video I've seen for so far.
Thank you for this helpful video! I especially appreciate the theory portion. I am hoping you or someone else can help me understand my results. My cold static check at ambient 76F is 60 psi low side and 80 psi high side. Dynamic check at 76F is 85 psi low side and 100 psi high side. I am having a hard time confirming that the compressor is engaging because of its location. Can you help me understand these numbers? Does the compressor appear to be running?
Very well done video. Covered a lot in a small amount of time.
This is one of the better videos on the subject on YT - congrats.
BWT, got a Q on an issue that is not covered well most anywhere - AC works fine during cool temps (morning n evening) but not in hot weather!! Any idea why this is?
Hi there, im a fan of your videos. I keep on adding refrigerant to my car a/c system every after 2-4days. My car doesn't blow cold after it is stock for a day even though i just had it refilled with refrigerants.
2:58 is purging of air in both blue and red lines needed at this time before you turn the AC on?
I appreciate theses types of videos
great video, buddy - thank you for explaining the possible pressure readings and what they might mean
Great video as ever. Don't you have to prime the yellow line so as not to allow any moisture or air into the system?
Great video!!!
I really appreciate videos like yours that are easy to understand!What would it be an acceptable psi difference between low and high?
My high system reads: 125psi and low 85psi
Thank you very much!
Master class on AC !!!
Hay man I appreciate you for you knowledge and information thanks a lot bro I support your Chanel
Thank you. That is very well explained.
Love your videos very informative and straight to the point thanks from New York
Dear RNW you are great and you take your time to explain things well. But I have Question about my system which is confusing and I have not seen solution to it on you tube Maybe you can Help. I have Tundra 2001 it had front right side body damage affected the fender, RF headlight and air filter housing and bent the condenser, also replaced the Radiator, and fan was broken also. All were fixed. System had pressure even after accident. First situation was Low pressure low (15-20), and High pressure High over 250psi, and clutch engage and disengage frequently we added Freon just a little high side went way up and low stayed the same, pursuant to Toyota Diagnostic table, indicated Blockage in the Receiver Dryer or expansion valve, we replaced both, we also tested all the line connection for leak, after replacement and testing condenser for leak we got to situation 2. Now the condenser have minor bent but holding pressure, the low is steady normal at 40 psi, and the high side went too high 275 and kept increasing to about to 350- to 375 close to 400psi and we did not even put one small can and clutch engages all the time without stop. Do you suspect the high pressure sensor not closing the circuit and causing all of the issues?
Nice video, When you attach the blue and red lines for doing the measurements, shouldn't you purge these lines from air or air will not get into the system? thx
R / W, if the below comments on "bleeding the lines" is accurate (makes sense to me) you should edit this video otherwise you are not being very responsible with your advise . I am not trying to be an ass, I have learned a lot from you, but I am really glad I read the comments before attempting this.
Terrific explanation: clear and thorough!
great video partner love all your video's I think u forgot to purge your charging hose yellow one, but great explanation!!!!
maybe he didn't want to get busted for venting and be deported ;)
Now THERE'S an intelligent comment :rolleyes:
He may have purged the hoses before recording. With the disconnects at the end of the hose, you could attach the hoses, purge them then attach to system. Then attach to the next system w/o purging again. But yes, purging should have been mentioned.
Great video , easy to understand
Making a few notes to check my understanding. If I need a correction, someone/anyone please let me know!
Start with gauge valves closed so that nothing escapes through the yellow line. Gauges will still read pressure from red/blue lines. Gauge valves open counterclockwise and quick-connect valves open clockwise.
_Systems with an orifice tube use an accumulator on the low side, after the evaporator. Systems with an expansion valve use a receiver-dryer after the condenser._
With compressor not running, you would expect pressure on both lines to be the same (eg., 60psi or so). If there is a difference, there's probably a clog somewhere (orifice tube or expansion valve maybe). With compressor running, consult a chart to verify the pressure numbers you're seeing based on ambient temp and humidity.
Example 1: If both Low and High side readings are towards their respective low ranges, system is likely low on refrigerant (car does cool, but not enough.)
Example 2: If both Low and High side readings are towards their respective high ranges or exceed the high ranges, system probably has too much refrigerant in it OR air isn't flowing through the condenser (fins are clogged, fans don't run etc.) System does not create a low-side pressure differential/compressor may be shutting down in self-preservation etc.)
Example 3: If both Low and High side readings are still the same even when compressor clutch is engaged, compressor is damaged. It's just not compressing refrigerant.
Example 4: Low side is lower than expected/High side is higher than expected. Likely clog in the high side (between compressor and orifice or expansion valve) Suspect condenser or receiver/dryer or expansion valve/orifice tube etc)
Example 5: Low side is higher than expected/High side is lower than expected. Systems with expansion valve: expansion valve is stuck open or compressor check valve is bad. Systems with orifice tube: Accumulator is clogged or compressor check valve is bad.
Great tutorial, easy to understand.
you dident purge the yellow line before u let the 134a into the system so u also let a yellow line full of air into the system as well.
Since it had pressure in a/c need to purge blue low & red high plus purge yellow suction..great vid👍
Perfect. Great Information, shared!
Succinct and to the point. Great job!
Best description I've seen for sure. Question. My symptom is whenever I turn on my defroster (with or without heat) the ac clutch engages and my radiator fans activate? Any advice on this? I changed the ac pressure switch to no avail.
Dude, excellent video.
Thank you
Very thorough vid,
Q why wouldn’t air be drawn into the system through the yellow line ahead of the refrigerant ?
Great video . Feeln confident now
I am trying to diagnose my 2000 Mustang GT A/C problem. I have been searching for hours and I cant find a video that has my specific issues combined with my troubleshooting results. You videos are very informative and I was wondering what you think. The A/C blows warm air and the compressor clutch is rapid cycling. My low and high pressure switches ohm out correctly. Manifold gauge readings are @80/80 static (80 deg F 30% Humid). When the A/C is on the gauges read 20-60 on the low and 100-125 on the high. If I jump the low pressure switch, to stop the rapid cycling, the compressor runs continuously and the low side goes to 0 and the high side stays at 100-125. Bringing engine rpm up to 2500 never increases pressure. Gauge pressures are unaffected by rpm. No obvious leaks but I have not leak tested yet. I'm narrowed down to a leak causing low charge or the compressor is bad. Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks for the great videos
How are you able to determine the amount for refrigerant that's in the system before adding more with the a/c manifold? Is it based off of the chart where you take your humidity and other outside factors to determine proper a/c readings?
Thanks my friend.. If i have a difficulties from my work, i will have your expertiest advice, right?
Hi... love all your vids. If I let all the r134a out of my system and vac it out, will I need to replace the oil. I'm handicapped and trying not to have to pull the compressor to dump the oil and refill. Thank you for your time. Johnny
Awesome! Great vid. Now more motivated to take the course. Thanks!!!
+F.O.U.O Cruz Glad you like the video, thanks for commenting.
You gave a few scenarios except one. What if the low side is right where it's supposed to be but the high side is too low?
That's is a very good Information Thanks
The video I needed
I purge the 3 lines. Blue and red after plugging the lines with the engine off. Yellow
Sir what is the ideal reading on the manifold gauges in the low and high side to determine how much refrigerant to top up...thanks
Beautiful video.
But how much do you put in? How can you tell how much you need and when it’s full (without overfilling)? Otherwise, great video.
Hi my friend again! good explanation.....
Question ?
So how do you know is empty or how much refrigerant is in the car.
Because you just put one can only,
is a way to know how much refrigerant is in the car?
thank you!......i am confuse......because you put only one can and it was smaller can.....thats right.
thank u.....
The chart will let you know how much is needed to add depending on the outside temperature. The gauges will let you know what is the correct amount. The sticker on the hood will tell you the max amount of Freon to have in the system.
This is a fantastic video!!!! thanks!
Hello
For the part of ambient air temperature is that the same thing for every car ?
I could guide it with that sheet ?
Thank you
Hi ac newbie here I thought you also had to have a vacuum pump attached somewhere in the mix or is that a completely different fix?
Should one add a
little compressor oil to the system if refrigerant has to be added to the system?
Great informative video
I own Yaris 2012, which when goes at high speed, gets cold air however when at slow speed or idle, doesn't give cold air, what do you reckon is the problem, is it with a blower fan or less refrigerant?
Why would my clutch not disengage?
Before it did not kick on, I fix that.
I add refrigerant and it kick on but don't goes on and off, it stays on.
I used the AC PRO can that had the digital screen, showing 3 psi, adding that can take it to 27 psi (low pressure port) when running.
After a few hours I motice that I didn't get cold air, so again, I went to check the pressure, with the car off I have LOW PRESSURE in 75psi and HIGH PRESSURE port at 120psi.
Any clue what's going on?
Thanks!
Are condenser fans supposed to always operate with AC on or intermittently?
Hello ! I would like to know what can be wrong with a compressor that engage for a few seconds and then desengage and do the same all over again but does not work enough to produce cold air. Could it be too much refrigerant in the system ? This is happenning to me after a recharge, but I think I put a little more than it should take. I would appreciate your advice on this issue. Thanks a lot, Ramon, Miami.
what are the temperature scale on the gage for on the low side 90degrees line up with 105 psi and it should be 45-55 psi and the T fitting on the yellow hose has a cap if I take the cap off and store the other end of the yellow hose there like I see you have it do I have put the cap back on when I use the gage thanks for your help Bert
awesome video!! Thanks for the class :)
Are the couplers that connect to the car the only ones open? Meaning the ports on the gauges are closed since you aren't using a vaccum
sir, good day, what about compressor oil estimate, adding or removing. Thanks
Based on my understanding, the valve on the high-pressure side should also open facing down instead of facing up. Because the AC compressor draws freon from the low side to the high side, if the valve open facing up like in the diagram, how come the valve get open?
I hope some one or the author can help me understand. Thank you!
Great video man. Thanks for making it!
Mine has good pressure at idle, 40 and 220, but when I raise the rpm to about 2500 the low side drop to 20 I think and the high side goes up to 250+.
Also shouldn’t the low side line be getting very cold?
I bought a set of gauges today and hooked them up. My low line reads zero but my high side reads 225. I haven’t found anything online that explains it but I’m assuming I have a clogged somewhere...? Any advice?
Why can I "thumbs up" this video only once, when I have 2?