Very helpful round up of them all! I am still getting into leathercraft and all the different glue types were confusing me. I need to learn patience too because I have some water based stuff, but just want to get to the sewing quickly!!
Love your water-based contact cement. I love that the glue line dry hard but flexible. Renia aquilim glue line stays gummy which makes it not good to burnish. Would love a video on how to make glue lines less noticeable to help burnish
I like and prefer Barge contact cement in the yellow can. Gotta love the old school Toluene based good stuff. Once it bonds and dries, you’re not getting it off. I’ve used it to repair leather baseball mits. It just works.
@@makersleathersupply1220 The Ca compliant is the Toluene Free (TF) version in the green/black can. Barge still sells both formulas and here in Cali, we can still get the original formula (yellow can) with toluene shipped to the house. We just can’t find it on the shelves. But… that’s good to know that your brand sells the “good stuff” too! I will check out your store. Thanks.
Great review. I prefer the contact cement because it cleans off the grain side if mistakenly got some on it. I tried Leatherweld from Tandy, it took off the grain leaving a blotchy spot.
Ahhhhrighht! Aaron, I can't remember the last time I was "glued to the Tube" for a solid 10:27. You have a very entertaining way of making alot of information stick.
Hey Aaron great video on the contact cement I use that on all my projects thanks a lot for the tip Aaron have a great day today in the shop Aaron and Janie Sue peace out Aaron!🇺🇸
I noticed at the Maker's Contact cement looks like Barge cement. Are the recipes similar? What can be used to thin Barge if you're slow about using. Great idea about using vasoline around the mouth of the glue jars.
The one thing I’d like to add is that I find the water based adhesive less effective when using oil tans. The solvent contact cements work better. I just wish their fumes weren’t so harmful. I’d love to find an adhesive that works quickly like the solvents but is nontoxic like the water based.
@@makersleathersupply1220 I could use some video advice on how to eliminate the glue line on my edges when using solvent cement. Also, what to do when your glue looks like honey and does solvent glue have an expiration point?
Great video Aaron. I have your contact cement and due to a wrist injury i haven't been able to tool leather for a few months. It looks like the glue has separated in the jar. Can i just stir it back up and use it or is it ruined?
Just checked out the water based on your site. Will you be carrying it in larger sizes? Want to order, but usually buy at least a half gallon at a time.
Double sided tape. On your ropers wallet you used the tape on the credit card slots. I’ve made a couple using your method. Haven’t had anyone complain about the slots coming loose.
is there anyone that usesSuperglue? is this like rubber cement in any way? what about Elmer's glue or wood glue? would this work? any particular type of glue to use on oil tan? thanks for your videos! G
Very helpful round up of them all! I am still getting into leathercraft and all the different glue types were confusing me. I need to learn patience too because I have some water based stuff, but just want to get to the sewing quickly!!
Thank you! This video was so useful, and very underrated
Love your water-based contact cement. I love that the glue line dry hard but flexible. Renia aquilim glue line stays gummy which makes it not good to burnish. Would love a video on how to make glue lines less noticeable to help burnish
I like and prefer Barge contact cement in the yellow can. Gotta love the old school Toluene based good stuff. Once it bonds and dries, you’re not getting it off. I’ve used it to repair leather baseball mits. It just works.
Our brand is what barge was before it went California compliant.
@@makersleathersupply1220 The Ca compliant is the Toluene Free (TF) version in the green/black can. Barge still sells both formulas and here in Cali, we can still get the original formula (yellow can) with toluene shipped to the house. We just can’t find it on the shelves. But… that’s good to know that your brand sells the “good stuff” too! I will check out your store. Thanks.
Great review. I prefer the contact cement because it cleans off the grain side if mistakenly got some on it. I tried Leatherweld from Tandy, it took off the grain leaving a blotchy spot.
Ahhhhrighht! Aaron, I can't remember the last time I was "glued to the Tube" for a solid 10:27. You have a very entertaining way of making alot of information stick.
Thanks for stickin around...
Hey Aaron great video on the contact cement I use that on all my projects thanks a lot for the tip Aaron have a great day today in the shop Aaron and Janie Sue peace out Aaron!🇺🇸
If you are using contact cement often you should be using a VOC respirator.
I noticed at the Maker's Contact cement looks like Barge cement. Are the recipes similar? What can be used to thin Barge if you're slow about using. Great idea about using vasoline around the mouth of the glue jars.
Maker's cement is like what barge was years ago before it became California compliant. Barge makes a thinner for their cement.
Thanks for this tutorial. What adhesive would you suggest for a beginner making wallets, key chains, and pass port. wallet covers?
A good contact cement.
The one thing I’d like to add is that I find the water based adhesive less effective when using oil tans. The solvent contact cements work better. I just wish their fumes weren’t so harmful. I’d love to find an adhesive that works quickly like the solvents but is nontoxic like the water based.
You are very correct. And I'd love to find that too! A hair dryer or heat gun can help but that sure can heat up a room quick in the summertime.
@@makersleathersupply1220 I could use some video advice on how to eliminate the glue line on my edges when using solvent cement. Also, what to do when your glue looks like honey and does solvent glue have an expiration point?
@Stryker I make a lot of oil tan chaps and it's a struggle to glue them. I have the best luck with the double sided tape that MLS sells.
Great video Aaron. I have your contact cement and due to a wrist injury i haven't been able to tool leather for a few months. It looks like the glue has separated in the jar. Can i just stir it back up and use it or is it ruined?
What do you use to thin the maker cement once it starts to harden. Great Video
Cement thinner
Any brand of solvent based cement thinner will do
How much do the glues stiffen it?
Hardly at all... the stiffening aspect comes from whatever you're gluing it to.
what sewing machine do you use?
I use 2 machines mainly. A cobra class 18 when I need a flat bed, and a cobra class 26 when I need a cylinder arm.
Just checked out the water based on your site. Will you be carrying it in larger sizes? Want to order, but usually buy at least a half gallon at a time.
Do you or have you ever used spray adhesives.
I use super 77 Spray from 3m sometimes when adhering fabric to leather for linings and such.
Double sided tape. On your ropers wallet you used the tape on the credit card slots. I’ve made a couple using your method. Haven’t had anyone complain about the slots coming loose.
Yep, it works great for that especially!
is there anyone that usesSuperglue? is this like rubber cement in any way?
what about Elmer's glue or wood glue? would this work?
any particular type of glue to use on oil tan?
thanks for your videos! G
Contact cement smells heavenly to me (I use it outside don't worry lol)
It stinks because the fumes are toxic...
@@misteryamato yup